dried calla lily seed pod

After the calla lily blooms, the flower pod seems to produce what looks like a cluster of small bulbs. Is this a seed pod?

Calla lily seed pod

When the flower is fertilized it will produce a green cluster of kernels resembling a pineapple. As the  seed pod matures, it will turn yellow and become soft and mushy. This can take several months and is usually ready in the fall.  If you pick it before it matures, the seeds will not be viable.

Harvesting the seed

You can remove the seeds  by pinching or squishing each berry between your fingers which can hold 1-5 sticky seeds.  Rinse the pulpy residue on the  seeds. At this point you can either plant the seeds in moistened potting soil or store them in the refrigerator until you are ready to plant.

Another way is to let the whole “seed pod” dry until it turns a orange, gold color. Clean off the fleshy coating and take out the seeds. Store the  seeds in a cool, dry place (frig)  until you are ready to plant.

How to plant calla lily seeds

Push  the seeds  into well-drained soil 1/4″-1/2″  deep and 1/2″ apart.  Keep the soil moist at a temperature of 70-80 degrees.  Germination can take 30-90 days.  Transplant  seedlings when after they have developed 2-3 leaves.

To check for seed viability, place seeds between moist paper towels for 2-3 days.

When starting Calla lily from seeds,  you never know what you’re going to get. The new plants will most likely not resemble the parent plant but you may be surprised with a new cultivar.

The blossoms on your Easter lily are starting to fade, you look at the plant and wonder now what. You don’t need to toss the plant. It can be saved to rebloom again year after year in the garden.

To rebloom your Easter lily

After the last flower has withered, cut it off and allow the plant  to continue to grow. It is important to allow the leaves and stems die back so that they can replenish nutrients and energy needed for next year’s growth. When the leaves turn yellow/ brown, cut off the brown stems . You may get new growth starting from the bulb.

When the weather warms up and danger of frost has passed, plant your lily bulb directly into the garden or flower bed. Plant 6-8″ deep, in a well-drained, sunny location and water in. Lilies like their feet in the shade and heads in the sun.  Add about 2″ of mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds away.
It is unlikely that your lily will re-bloom this year but look for it in subsequent years to bloom in June-July.

Fertilize monthly
In spring, when the new shoots emerge start fertilizing with an 8-8-8 or use a slow release fertilizer until you see flower buds. Apply the fertilizer 3 inches away from the stem and water.
Deer love to munch on new emerging shoots and flower buds, so be sure to protect your plants.

Easter lilies grown in the cooler zones such as Northern Illinois are marginally hardy. It is recommended that they be planted 8 deep and heavily mulched over the winter, in case of a hard freeze. It’s worth the effort.

More info  on Easter lily care:  http://hortchat.com/info/how-to-pick-an-easter-lily

The earliest reference to the shamrock was in the 5th century when St. Patrick used the shamrock to explain the Trinity to the Druids. There is no proof of knowing that this really happened, however, the shamrock continued to become a part of Irish legend and history. Today in Ireland, the three-lobed leaf is a symbol of Ireland and is proudly worn as a “good luck” badge on St. Patrick’s day.

The “lucky clover” is not the same as the Shamrock plant sold at the grocery stores around St. Patrick’s day. The word shamrock is derived from Celtic word, “trefoil” (three-leafed), or “little clover”. Trifolium repens is the small white clover that is found in lawns and also used as a green manure cover crop. Irish experts consider this to be the true shamrock. Although, others may argue that the yellow flowered (Trifolium dubium) is the real deal. Both are difficult to grow indoors.

The shamrocks sold in grocery stores belong to a large family of Oxalis with over 800 varieties, native to Chile and South Africa. They grow from small corms or tuberous roots which produce delicate, clover-like leaves that are light sensitive and close on cloudy days and at night (nyctinstic movements). The leaves range from a green to purple with flowers that come in a variety of colors; white, cream, yellow, pink, purple and red.

Oxalis regnelli, sold as the shamrock plant, has white flowers and green foliage.  Another version, O. triangularis has purple leaves with pinkish to white flowers.

CARE
Indoors – keep in a well-lit location (east or west window) away from hot and cold drafts at temperatures of 60-70F during the day and 55-65F at night. They should be kept barely moist at all times and not allowed to stand in water as that will cause root rot. Fertilize every 2 -4 weeks with a houseplant fertilizer. The plant is relatively pest free.

When finished blooming,  the plant may start to die back.  Allow it to go dormant for 1-3 months keeping the corms cool and dry.  After dormancy, repot and or divide (optional). When signs of new growth emerge, begin to water, fertilize and move to a sunny spot.

Oxalis regnelli and O.triangularis are hardy in zone 6-10. Hardier varieties can be grown outdoors as a nice ground cover. Not only does it make a great houseplant, but the unique foliage can add great accent and color to your outdoor container plantings.

Troubleshooting: Tall & lanky plant – needs more light, too warm (temps over 75)
Yellowing plant – watering too much.

May the luck of the Irish be with you!
Happy St. Patty’s!!

Originating from the mountains of  Taiwan, the potted Easter lily (Lilium longiflorum) is the popular traditional plant of the Easter season.  The white trumpet shaped flowers are a symbol of hope and renewed life.

Selecting an Easter lily

To select a high quality Easter lily there are some factors you must consider.

Look for a plant with dense, dark, shiny, green leaves along the entire stem of the plant. Choose buds that are just starting to open, as well as a few unopened ones. The staggered blooming times will add to your continued enjoyment.  Some people will actually count the number of buds on the plant and of course, choose the one with the highest bud count.
Be wary of plants that look wilted, this may indicate root rot from too much water.
Avoid plants with yellowing lower leaves, this can also indicate a problem. 

CARE
When you bring your lily home, place it in bright, indirect light. They prefer temperatures of 60-65F  degrees during the day and even cooler at night. Keep your Easter lily away from cold drafts or heating vents.

Water
Keep the soil moist and avoid over watering which can encourage root rot. Lilies do not like their feet wet. When watering, remove the decorative cover (if necessary) to allow any excess water to drain from the bottom of the pot.

As the flower buds open, carefully remove the anthers that contain yellow pollen.  This will help prolong the lifespan of the flowers and keep the pollen from “staining” the white flowers as well as your linens.  To maintain a fresh appearance, remove any withered flowers.

Enjoy your Easter lily for its beauty and fragrance.

When your lily is finished blooming, with a little know-how you can get it to bloom year after year.. see Saving your Easter Lily

Popular Varieties grown for retail sales
Ace and Nellie white

You may like  http://hortchat.com/info/coloring-easter-eggs-the-natural-way

Potted bulbs such as tulips, daffodils and hyacinths add a refreshing touch of Spring indoors during the winter months. With a little know-how they can be recycled to rebloom outdoors.

What to do when they are done blooming

You can do one of two things either
1.discard them into your compost pile
2.save the bulbs for future blooms.

In order to utilize the bulbs for the next season, remove the dead flower heads. Keep the soil evenly moist and let the foliage continue to grow until it dies back naturally.  Never remove the leaves until they have completely turned brown and pull away.  This process will store up energy into the bulb for the next season’s bloom.

Check for healthy bulbs
Make sure that the bulbs are firm, free from soft spots and don’t have an unpleasant ordor. If they do they should be thrown out.

Replant bulbs
Saved bulbs can either be planted outdoors in the spring as soon as the weather permits or kept in the pot and planted in the fall. Plant your bulbs in a well-drained area as too much water during the summer season can rot your bulbs.
You may not get the bulb to rebloom the following years, it can take forced tulips 2-3 years to rebloom outdoors.

-If you store any bulbs in the refrigerator keep them away from fruit and vegetables. The ethylene gas they emit will disfigure or abort the developing flower.

*Did you know tulip petals are edible. The flavor depends on the variety. The petals taste like sweet lettuce or baby peas, some have a cucumber texture and flavor. Before you eat make sure they are pesticide-free or organically grown .

More info…http://hortchat.com/info/forcing-spring-bulbs

The fragrant blooms usually last 7-14 days. The longevity of  the bulb depends on how far along the plant was when you bought it.  If it was in full bloom chances are that it is done blooming and is on its way out.

When purchasing bulb plants, pick ones that show a slight color but not open, this will give you more time to enjoy the whole blooming process.
It is best to keep them in a cool place away from heat and  direct sunlight. The warmer the room the quicker it will bloom and die. Water when top 1″ of soil is dry.

How to rebloom a hyacinth 
Once the plant is done blooming you can either toss the bulb or try to save it for future bloom.

Here’s what you need to do:
Cut off the dead flower stalk and allow the foliage to continue to grow until it yellows and dies back naturally.  This will  replenish  the bulb with nutrients and energy for next year’s bloom.

Plant your hyacinth bulb outdoors when the soil can be worked and temperatures are above freezing . Pull out the entire root ball and plant it deep enough so the bulbs are 5-6 inches below the soil line. Choose a spot that does not get excessively wet in the summer or the bulb will rot.
Hyacinths like moist springs and dry summers.

*If the bulbs remain in the pot,  store them through the summer and plant the bulbs outdoors in the fall.
Forced bulbs drain much energy out of the bulb and should not be forced to bloom again; instead plant them outdoors in the ground, fertilize in the spring and with a little luck, they may rebloom in  2-3 years

Troubleshooting
-Flower heads bending over (drooping)  may be due to warm temperatures, low light or a watering problem.
-Forced bulbs can develop a shallow root system. Consequently when brought into a warm room, grow so fast that the flower head gets too      heavy for the stem to support it.
-Short stocky flower heads can be the result of not enough cooling time.

- Hyacinth bulb is considered poisonous and deer proof.

Easter is a time of renewal. In many pagan cultures a decorated egg became the symbol of rebirth.

Coloring eggs was first introduced to Europe by the Crusaders who brought the idea back from the East. My earliest and fondest memory of coloring Easter eggs was when I was a child in Germany. It was with delight, that we spent hours preparing our boiled eggs with bees wax (pisanki) and then dipped them in dyes to get a number of different colors. My favorite method was to simmer the egg in yellow onion skins to attain a beautiful tan to golden brown color. We would let the egg cool and scratch a design on the egg with a needle or special tool. I continued this scratch method into my adult life and still enjoy some of my old pieces of art which I bring out at Easter time.

Natural dyes

There are a number of dyes from nature that you can use to color your eggs. Generally, with natural dyes, the more coloring agent and the longer the egg remains in the dye, the deeper and darker the color will be.  Here are some ideas for natural dyes you can get from items that you may have in the spice cabinet and kitchen.

Red-orange – Simmer eggs in a large pot of water for up to an hour in red onion skins.
A teaspoon of vinegar to 2 cups of water will help speed up the dyeing process and attain a deeper color. Pomegranite juice and crushed cranberries will also produce a red color.
Paprika will make a light orange color.

Brown – Two tablespoons of instant coffee and one teaspoon of vinegar to 2 cups of hot water. Soak boiled egg overnight.

Yellow – Two teaspoons of turmeric or cumin, one teaspoon of vinegar in 3 cups of water
Soak boiled egg overnight. Use yellow onion skins for a tan, yellow orange to golden brown color. Also, try Alder catkins.

Pink – Soak hard boiled egg in beet juice overnight in the frig

Lavender – Pour hot water over violet blossoms and soak hard-boiled egg overnight in the frig.

Blue – Simmer eggs in red cabbage , add 1 teaspoon alum per cup, for a deep blue, add 1 TBS of vinegar to grape juice for a lavender color. Frozen blueberries will make a pale gray blue color. For a deeper color steep eggs in dye overnight in the frig.

Another method of coloring eggs is to place delicate material, such as fern fronds, leaves or flowers on the egg and wrap them in cheesecloth or pantyhose. Tie the ends and boil the wrapped eggs in clear water 10-15 minutes, and see what happens!

Have fun coloring your Easter eggs with your family this year. If you have any other dye suggestions, please let us know. We’d love to hear from you!

Here’s an easy way to make an Easter table arrangement: combine 3-4 pansies in a basket, cover with

grass, add colored eggs and finish off with pussy willows or any other spring flowering branches. Your guest will be impressed!

Narcissus papyraceus, a cultivar of Narcissus tazetta, is available during the holiday season and sold as bulb kits or as single bulbs in garden centers. The easy to force bulbs produce clusters of white fragrant flowers can brighten any home in the dead of winter.

Paperwhite narcissus can be easily forced to bloom anytime in winter thru spring because unlike tulips, hyacinths or daffodils, they do not require a cooling period (vernalization)

How to start
Plant the bulbs in groups of 3, 5 or 7 in well-drained soil mix with the top half above the soil line. Water the soil thoroughly and place in a warm location. When the leaves begin to emerge, move the container to a sunny area.

Another popular way to start paperwhites is without a soil medium. Simply place the bulbs close together, flat end(tips up) into a container that has a layer of rocks, marble or gravel in the bottom. Add just enough water to keep the bottom of the bulbs moist but not wet. They should not sit in water or they will rot. It will take about a week for the roots to grow into the water soaked gravel. No fertilizer is required.
When bulbs are planted in the fall (Thanksgiving) blooming will occur in 4-6 weeks, but if planted later in the season they should bloom within 2-3 weeks.
The flowers should last from 1 – 2 weeks, but for optimal longer lasting blooms, move the container to a cool, bright spot out of direct sunlight when the flowers first appear. If grown in too warm temperatures or not enough light, the plant may get tall and top heavy and require some kind of support to keep it from flopping over.

Floppy stems
New research by Dr. William B. Miller at Cornell U. has shown that the use of alcohol can shorten the stem length of paperwhite narcissus thus reducing the too tall, flop over problem. Replacing the existing water with a 5% solution (1 part isopropyl alcohol to 10 parts of water) when the shoots are 2 inches tall will keep the foliage and stems at 1/3 to 1/2 shorter than their normal height with no affect on the flowers. Don”t use beer or wine and an alcohol solution no higher than 10%. The reduced growth is believed to be caused by the alcohol making water absorption difficult for the bulb resulting in “water stress”.

Plant Tip
Forced paperwhites will not re-bloom; the bulb depletes all its energy in flower production. In Northern climates, they should be enjoyed and then discarded. However, in warmer climates, zone 8-11, Paperwhites can be planted outdoors and may rebloom after a few years of rebuilding the bulb.
source:www.hort.cornell.edu/

Cut daffodils release a stem-clogging sap (slime exudate) that causes other flowers to wilt especially tulips. Cut them early in the morning when they are barely opened and place them in a bucket of luke warm water for several hours. Add 1 teaspoon of sugar to quart of water to preserve freshness. Wait at least 12 hours after cutting before combining them with other flowers this allows time for the sap to leach out. Do not recut them when arranging with other flowers. They should last 4-6 days depending on temperature exposure.

Recent studies have shown that floral preservative should not be added to cut tulips. It shortens their longevity by clogging the stem causing them to wilt.

Hybrid Chinese Evergreen

Spathyphyllum

As the end of summer approaches and night temperatures start to drop below 50 degrees, it is time to think about bringing your houseplants back inside. Summer vacation is over.

Most houseplants are, after all, tropical and are accustomed to warm climates. Plants such as winter jasmine, Christmas & Thanksgiving cactus and cymbidium orchids will tolerate cooler temperatures (40′s) and actually need the colder temps and shorter days to stimulate bud-formation for winter blooming.

Before you bring your plants indoors there are a few things you should do.

Two weeks prior
Move your houseplant into the shade to help adjust to the lower light indoors.
While they are outside, clean your windows. A clean window will allow more light to pass through than a dirty one.

Check your plants
Look  for insects and eggs that may want to camp out  indoors for the winter. To force out any unwanted pests, soak your plant up to the rim in a sink full of water. If that is not possible, try a soil drench – systemic granules that are sprinkled on the soil surface and watered in. It usually lasts up to 4 months.  If necessary, spray the plant with insecticidal soap or a recommended topical spray covering the top and undersides of the leaves.
You don’t want to bring uninvited guests into the house. Infested plants will need vigilant treatments, so you have to decide if its worth the trouble.

No need to repot
Unless your plant is totally potbound there is no need to repot it.  If you feel its necessary, refresh the soil with a lightweight soiless mix but do not change the size of the pot. Also, take the opportunity to check for insects. It’s best to repot your plants in the spring when they are ready to grow again.

Stop fertilizing
Plants should be fed when they are actively growing so they can take advantage of the nutrients. Low light conditions, short days will reduce plant growth therefore, fertilization should be stopped, except for winter flowering plants. Resume feeding in late winter.

Water less
 Once indoors, your plants will require less water because they will grow slower or stop growing during the winter months. Check the soil before watering. The top 2 inches should be dry before watering again. Be sure the plant does not sit in water as that can cause the roots to rot. Overwatering is a major problem of houseplants.

More info on houseplant care:  http://hortchat.com/info/how-to-make-a-pebble-tray