Plant Care Vrtlarstvo & Savjeti

Hydrangia skrb

Imam vrlo velike zdrave Hydrangia lišće, ali ne cvatu. Što mogu učiniti?

Prva stvar koju morate odrediti što je vrsta hortenzija imate. Neki od najčešćih razloga za neuspjeh cvatnje su 1. Previše nijansu-sve raste u hladu djelomične i previše, ali će utjecati na cvatnje. 2. Ako živite u hladnjak klime, cvijet mogao pupoljci imali zimske štetu. Samo glatka (H. arborescens) i vlat (H. paniculata) hortenzija u cvatu novi drveta; bigleaf hortenzija (H. macrophylla) blooms prvenstveno na starim drva, što znači da im je potrebno da postavite njihove pupoljci u jednoj godini, a zatim se kroz zimski u cvatu iduće godine. Osim toga neki kultivari bigleaf cvatu i na novim rasta. 3. Obrezivanje - biti svjestan vremena. Pametan obrezivanje je važno. Previše obrezivanje odriješiš će iduće godine pupoljci. Ako orezati kako bi se smanjila visina, učinite to odmah nakon cvatnje. Ako orezati na tanke iz postrojenja, rezano neke od najstarijih stabala u prizemlju u rano proljeće (dremljiv sezoni). Većina hydrangeas rasti i bez obrezivanje at all.

Kada je najbolje vrijeme da se smanjiti Hydrangeas?

Najbolje vrijeme da se orezati je rano proljeće i neposredno nakon cvjetnice. On pomaže da znamo koja vrsta hortenzija morate znati koliko želite orezati.
H.arborescens blooms o novim drva, tako da možete izrezati ga na 1 / 2 veličine ili 6 "iznad tla zimi ili rano proljeće. Bez obrezivanje dat će vam snažan rast manje i manje cvijeća.
H. paniculata - isti kao i H. arborescens.
H. macrophylla Bigleaf hortenzija-blooms na starom drvu (osim za Endless Summer, MAC i Penny All Summer Beauty) obrezuj ne samo ukloniti proveo cvijeća. Cut desno dolje cvijet glave. Bilo koji drugi obrezivanje cvjetne će smanjiti proizvodnju za slijedeću sezonu. Što više manje rezano cvijeće koje ćete dobiti.
H. quercifolia, Oakleaf hortenzija blooms na staro drvo-obrezuj isto kao H. macrophylla. Orezati u rano proljeće ili u obliku tankih postrojenja na teret cvijeća.

Postoji velika zbirka Hydrangeas kupiti ovdje:

1. Padalica hortenzija Upravo sam kupio dva padalica hydrangeas, također poznat kao Fidži Slapovi, ...
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3. Hortenzija Planinarenje Planinarenje hortenzija hortenzija anomala subsp. petiolaris poznat kao Planinarenje hortenzija se smatra ...
4. Brugmansia skrb Brugmansia, Angel roga je veliki grm ili drvce s velikim ...
5. Uzgoj pavit pavit Govorkanje je da pavit loza je teško rasti. S obzirom ...
6. Cvjećar hortenzija Imam prekrasne hortenzija pijan da sam dobila od cvjećar ...
7. Gardenija care The sjajan tamnozelena ostavlja i mirisni cvjetovi bijele mliječan od ...

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Listopad 19th, 2004 | Kategorija: Vrt Review | 65 komentara

65 komentara na Hydrangia skrb

• mpbeebe

  Listopad 28th, 2004 at 12:31 Odgovor

  Kako znam kakvu hortenzija sam, i kako mogu znati kada će obrezuj ako ne cvatu?

  Ovdje su neke od sorti hydrangeas: Gladak hortenzija (hortenzija arborescens) je jednogodišnja zonu 4-9. Ovaj native grm dobiva 3-4 ft visok i ima zaobljena ssirenje obliku. Lišća su velika i zaobljena, duboke zelene. Cvijeće se kremom u boji zaokruľuje klasterima. "Annabelle" i "grandiflora 'su popularni sorti. It blooms o novim drva pa ako rezanja starih stabala na terenu u kasnom zimskom i dalje ćete imati cvijeće u narednom razdoblju.

  Vlat hortenzija (hortenzija paniculata) je jednogodišnja zonu 3-8. To je jednogodišnja većina svih hydrangeas. Ovaj višegodišnji grm raste stabljikom 10-20 ft visok (neki kultivari su manji). Lišća su ovalni, tamnozelena i duboko venama. Ima membrana u obliku grozdova koji su spoj malim i velikim cvjetovima u boji slonovače, da promijeni u ružičast-bronca s dobi. Neke vrste su "grandiflora 'ili PeeGee,' Tardiva ', Bruxelles Čipka" i "Pink Diamond'. Također, na novim blooms drva.
  Bigleaf hortenzija (H. macrophylla) je jednogodišnja zonu 6-9. Ima mounded, širok proširila forma koja raste 3-6 ft stasa. Ostavlja duboki su zelena, velikog ovalnog oblika. Ona je poznata po bujnom cvijeće koje dolaze, bilo u obliku globusa obliku ili lacecap cvjetovi. The "mophead" profili su velike, oble blooms koji se sastoje od drečeći cvijeća; dok lacecap grupi ima stan drečeći cvijeća s malim starlike cvijeća u centru. Među neke od sorti su "Nikko Blue ', Forever Pink" i "vatren žar'. One cvatu na starom drvu (prošlogodišnji rast), pa nakon cvatnje orezati na visinu. Ako orezati u rano proljeće ćete izgubiti neke cvijeća. Tu je novi raznim Endless Summer ( 'Bailmer') koji će cvjetati na stari i novi je drvo i otporan na 4 zone. Ako obrezuj ovaj put u krivu on će i dalje cvatu iduće godine.

  Oakleaf hortenzija (H. quercifolia) jednogodišnja zonu 5-9. Ths multi-stabljikom forma raste 6-8 m visok. Lako prepoznate po svojoj oakleaf obliku floliage i dugim kupast grozdova cvijeća. Blooms na staro drvo, tako da odmah nakon obrezuj cvjetnice.

• Jamie nixon

  Siječanj 4th, 2005 at 11:23 Odgovor

  blooms bilo plavom; nađubren dvorište, blooms otišao ružna ljubičasta. Želim plava nazad.

  Moguće je da ste promijenili ph u tlu po gnojidbu. Plavom hortenzija zahtijeva pH od 5,0 do 5,5 tako da može apsorbirati aluminun spojeva potrebno da se dobije plava boja. Veći ph kravate se složeni čineći ga tako nedostupna, stvaraju ružičaste boje. Ukratko aluminun sulfat primijeniti na tlo pH spustiti da se dobije plava hortenzija

• corinne

  Ožujak 26, 2005 at 3:02 Odgovori

  Za rezano cvijeće za table.I kupila neke hydranga cvijeće i oni krenuše droppy. Ima li išta mogu učiniti da ih dovede natrag. Isto tako od moje dvorište kada sam rezati neki iz mog hydranga grudi, što mogu učiniti da ih gleda puna i lijepo. Jedno pitanje više, i ako želim im suha, što je najbolja stvar za učiniti.
  Hvala Corinne

  Rezano cvijeće u ranim dan. Pokušajte recutting ih kada su drooping. Za sušenje hortenzija, vrijeme je bitno. Nježno stisnuti cvijet i osjetiti za blagi papirast otpora, provjerite sve florets zatim izrezati i staviti u vazi i neka suha. Druga metoda je da se mjesto rezanja cvijeće u vazi pun vode i neka se cvijet apsorbirati vodu, a zatim dopustite da suho.

• Betty

  Travanj 3rd, 2005 at 8:32 Odgovori

  Imam Tokyo ushititi hydrangrea. Se bilo tko znati što "tipa" to je tako da mogu odrediti kako najbolje orezati?
  Hvala.

  Tokyo naslada je sorta od hortenzija macrophylla, bigleaf hortenzija. Blooms na staro drvo kako orezati odmah nakon cvjetnice. Blooms srpanj-kolovoz Hardy u zoni 5-9 iako je 5 "sumnjiv" i može umrijeti iz hladne zimske uniątavanja iduće godine cvijeće.

• Anonimno

  Travanj 28th, 2005 at 4:07 Odgovori

  Nakovrčati lišća i skrećemo crne ili tamno na rubovima.

  Reš brown rubova ukazuju sol spali (previše gnojivo) strees suša, ili zbijenost tla.

• Victoria Zander

  Svibanj 8, 2005 at 6:29 Odgovori

  Hydrangas: Jesu li otrovne? Želim nekih postrojenja u vrt posjetilo starješine imaju demenciju. Ponekad se "jesti daisies".

  Da, prema US Army centra za zdravstvo, cvijet pupoljci najviše otrovan. Simptomi nakon injestion: cijanida trovanja, bolovi u trbuhu, povraćanje i pospanost.

• Ida Watson

  Svibanj 21, 2005 at 2:59 Odgovori

  Upravo sam kupio ružičasti hortenzija. Koju vrstu (npr. brojevi 10-10-10) za gnojivo trebam koristiti kako bi to ružičasta.

  To ovisi o vrsti tla imate. Nekim područjima su, naravno, alkalna (roza), dok su drugi više kiselog. Ako se počne mijenja boju, a zatim promjenu pH u tlu i dodati vapno održavanje ružičastoj boji. Za opće gnojidbu, Michael Dirr, sugerira koristeći 4 oz. o 10-10-10 scathered vani oko baze biljke u rano proljeće prije ostavlja izroniti. On također preporučuje Osmocote ili Nutricote.

  Moj susjed vrata do vrata hortenzija ima ljubičasta i plava sam Med ... mi swapped i ljubičasta skrenite plavi kad sam zasadih u mojoj kući ... Kako mogu dobiti purple nazad. Donna Peavy

  Boja ovisi o pH razine u vašem tlu. Očigledno imate nižu pH tla u vama izaziva cvjetove kako bi se okrenula plave umjesto ljubičasta. Ako povećate vaš ph dodavanjem vapna (zaslađivanje vaše tlo) vaše cvijeće će ljubičasta.

  2007-2-9
  Tawnie (mccrarytawnie@comcast.net /)
  Ja kupila zelene, roza, ljubičasta i biljaka. Iduće godine svi bloomed plava. Kako mogu pretvoriti ih natrag u njihove izvorne boje?

  Tlo u vašem području moraju imati niži pH u kojem hydrangeas prirodno plavi cvijet. Možete provjeriti pH tla s testa. Kako bi se podigao na ph 6.0-6.2 (što je najbolje za ružičaste boje) koju trebate dodati vapno Dolomitic nekoliko puta godišnje na zašećeriti tlo. Koristiti gnojiva koja ima visok nivo fosfora (# sredini), a ne od aluminija. Aluminij je lako uzeti gore mimo postrojenja u nižim pH tla proizvodnju plavu boju, dok viši pH smanjuje aluminij dimovod uzrokujući ružičasta blooms. Ili ste prihvatili prirodnih raste naviku plave, pokušajte promijeniti ph, ili razviti svoje biljke u kontejner gdje je boja će biti lakše kontrolirati.

• Dan Trivino

  4. lipnja 2005 at 6:48 Odgovori

  To je 4. lipnja u NJ, Je li to u redu da jedan transplant hortenzija

  Najbolje vrijeme za presađivanje hortenzija je rano proljeće prije nego što pupoljci ili u jesen kada se biljka je neaktivan. Svaki drugi put kad se stavi u šok Postrojenja i svibanj ne opstane. Kada to učinite orositi transplant beba i postrojenja kao nova sadnja. Prilikom kopanja svoje hortenzija pokušati dobiti onoliko korijene i najmanji iznos od korijena poremećaj da bi dobili bolje rezultate.

• O. Solis

  5. lipnja 2005 at 8:29 Odgovori

  Moja biljka je u redu do prije nekoliko dana kada sam ga hranio s kiselinom gnojivo. Sada se okreće smeđi listovi na rubu i curling. Nalazi se u hladu i djelomična nedjelja Što se dogodilo?

  To zvuči kao previše ili previsoke koncentracije gnojiva i biljni se suočili gnojivo spali. Previše primjeniti gnojivo koje se ne zali na dobro koncentrirani proizvodi rješenje koje otežava biljke apsorbirati vodu. Postrojenja se neće moći koristiti svi koji gnojivo. Vodeni biljke temeljito se razrijediti i lužina iz bilo koje gnojivo pristup i neka vode izlučivalo. Učinite to nekoliko puta.

• Christina Walker

  7. lipnja 2005 at 12:25 Odgovor

  Imam Plava hortenzija i nemam djelomična nedjelja / područje hlad u mom dvorištu je u punom nedjelja Bloomed To je dobro, ali izgleda da umru blooms prilično brzo. Trebam li biti zabrinuta?

  Plava hortenzija čine kao djelomična hlad na puni nedjelja (popodne hlad je najbolji u vruće klime). Na cvjetovi izblijediti svibanj brže zbog previše nedjelja Dokle god je zdrava i rastu te bi trebao ne biti zabrinut.

• lucretia

  15. lipnja, 2005 at 6:21 Odgovori

  Imam ljubičasta biljka koja tokareno plava. repotted da sam veći kontejner i sada njegova green.My omiljena je ljubičasta / Pomoć!

  Kada je pH replanted od tla je različita, mijenja boju. Aluminij sulfat Dodaj na tlu. Morat ćete to učiniti svaki mjesec i to će potrebno dosta vremena za bilo kakvu promjenu u emisiji. Najbolji put za to je u proljeće kada biljke je tek s početkom u obliku cvijeta. Šanse su vam neće biti mnogo promjena u ovoj godini. No, imajte na umu da ćete morati učiniti sljedeće godine održati plava / ljubičasta boja. Plava boja zahtijeva više kiseline nego ljubičasta, tako da ćete morati nadgledati vaše aplikacije.

• Joe Wilson

  20. lipnja, 2005 at 5:06 Odgovori

  Što možete učiniti ako leaf rubove su tamno smeđe. Ova biljka je u zemlju oko 3 & MO je zasađen sa blooms on. Je kupljen lokalno na vrt centra.

  Hydrangeas poput vode, on svibanj biti da su oni previše suho ili previše izložen suncu i vremenskim hot koji će izazvati užasna.

• Amy Taylor

  Lipanj 22nd, 2005 at 1:35 Odgovori

  JA pravedan posadi ružičasta hortenzija je uzimajući jutro sunce, popodne neki hlad i nedjelja od oko 1 do 7 na večer. Blooms je na kraju dana su droopy i oni su prilično blijedi od ružičaste do izblijedio gotovo bijeli, također su se blooms bruniranje oko rubova. Je li to previše sunca, ili je to dok se ne dobije očekivani osnivanja??

  Zvuči kao previše nedjelja Poslijepodne nedjelja (najtoplijeg dijela dana) je tvrd na hortenzija-mnogi kao djelomična hladu okoliš.

• Kiki Kraemer

  Lipanj 27th, 2005 at 3:17 Odgovori

  bi hortenzija blooms kada se odstrani cvijet troši, a kada je to najbolje za napraviti na taj način, kada je u potpunosti proveo cvatu ili ranije? U koje točke na deblo da li je raščistiti proveo cvatu? Hvala

  Hortenzija i H. macrophylla serrata, cvatu na staro drvo. U toploj klimi orezati odmah nakon cvjetnice, u kul klime na cvjetovi ostaviti preko zime kako bi zaštitili iduće god. pupoljaka i orezati u proljeće. Cut natrag na zdrav par pupoljci masti (do 12 in). Hydrangeas da procvate na novim urediše drva može se odmah nakon cvatnje.

• Edwina Norris

  Srpanj 6th, 2005 at 8:58 Odgovori

  Kako tretirati crna mrlja na mojoj hortenzija ostavlja?

  Leaf spotova pojavljuju kada voda pretek. Voda na lišće i vlažnost pomoć izvedem gljiva koja uzrokuje leaf spot. To je ružan, ali neće naškoditi biljke. Nakon što se gljiva je prisutna, ne postoji ništa što možete učiniti za nju. Možete sprej u proljeće s sredstvo protiv gljiva kao preventivna mjera ili promijeniti svoju rutinu za zalijevanje vodom tla, izbjegavajući voda na lišće.

• Katie

  Srpanj 17th, 2005 at 11:46 Odgovor

  moj prijatelj kaže ružna stara dama svjetloljubičast hydrangeas (razne nepoznato) će ići zelena / bijela ako dodam koristi soc tla na razini; neće utjecati na kiseline njoj umjesto plavog cvijeća? Hvala.

  Samo hortenzija Macrophylla kultivara kao što su Plava Nikko, Mathilde Gutges i Endless Summer imaju mogućnost da vrate plave. Kao cvijeće dobi boja će se promijeniti u zelenu vapna i konačno suho do bež (svijetlo smeđa) boja. By spuštanje pH preko soc, u ružičastoj svibanj pretvoriti u bijelo / zeleno-ovisno o raznolikosti. Isprobajte ga, vidjeti što se događa.

• Diane Powell

  Srpanj 19th, 2005 at 4:45 Odgovori

  Wilting Hydrangia lišćem. Plant je lonac, a ne izložen toplom nedjelja Bio je presaditi iz zemlje, ali sada u kontejner. Ostavlja nastaviti čak i kad hoćeš zali.

  Tranplanting će šokirati cijeli postrojenja uključujući korijena. Nema dovoljno korijene podržati lišćem. Držite ga u hladu, zaštićeno područje do biljka obnavljaju. Budite oprezni da ne overwater kao što će to dovesti do truljenja korijena pozivamo problema dnu vode (neka biljka stojim u vodi do 45 min. Izlučivalo njih).

• Helen Sandor

  Kolovoz 17, 2005 at 9:11 Odgovori

  Bok
  Imam dva plava Nikko hortenzija grmovi koje sam kupio prije oko mjesec dana. Svaki cvjetnice je vrlo dobro, moja jedina briga je da se ti grmovi su vrlo nisko do zemlje, manje od 2 noge stasa. Ja zasadih jedan na svakoj strani prednje doorsteps, misleći da je svako bi porasti oko 4-6 noge visoka. Je li to realno očekivanje? Ako je tako, koliko vremena će trebati dok se za njih to zaista izgledaju grmlje? Moj hydrangeas su doslovno puzeći na terenu u ovom trenutku. Biste pomoću štapova držati gore teža grana na svim pomoći? Bilo kakva pomoć na ovoj će se mnogo poštovati.

  Nikko Plava mogu dobiti do 6 ft stasa. Vaše je samo hortenzija acclimated uzimajući u novu okolinu. Zdrav hortenzija povećava u veličini svake godine. Zimska zaštita je važna za slijedeću godinu cvatu. Budite sigurni da ste dobro zagrtati biljke preko zime zaštititi od smrzavanja. Pogledajte komentar od 8 / 05 za Melissa.

  Siječanj Humphrey (hgunner24 @ wmconnect
  Ja sam počeo 5 Nikko Plava Hydrangeas od reznice i oni su u 4 "lonci sada. Kako se brinuti o njima za zimu?

  Ako živite u Northern klima-ne neka nova postrojenja smrznuti prve zime. Oni trebaju biti babied. Nema dovoljno razvijena korijena preživjeti zamrznuti. Najbolje da ih u zaštićenom području preko zime.

• Deb Johnson

  Kolovoz 18, 2005 at 6:31 Odgovori

  Koje je najbolje doba godine za postrojenja hydrangeas?

  Najbolje vrijeme je u proljeće nakon opasnost mraz je iznad ili u jesen pred noćnim temperaturama sići do 32 stupnjeva. Plant 45-60 dana prije prvog očekuje zamrznuti. Kad je sadnja u jesen, primjenjuju se 1 / 4 strength gnojivo kako bi se uspostavila korijena i vode dobro.

• Edna

  22. rujna, 2005 at 7:14 Odgovori

  Živim u PHOENIX AZ. Gdje trebam biljka MOJI Pink hortenzija. će trajati nedjelja PUNE SVE LJETO ili bih trebao posaditi U Djelomični hladu?
  koliko i kako često trebam VODA IT.
  Budući da je temperatura toliko vruće u Phoenix, ja bih ga u biljnim nedjelja / djelomična hladu (ujutro sunce i hlad poslijepodne). Vode prema biljnim potrebu. Ako još vruća, vjetrovito dana povećati svoj zalijevanje. Opće pravilo thumb je 1 inch tjedno dubokog nalijevanje dometnut ne prskanjem.

• Cindy

  Listopad 9th, 2005 at 6:12 Odgovori

  Upravo sam kupio i posadi sažaljiv annabelle hydrangia (big leaf) danas - listopad! trebam dodati gnojivo u ovom trenutku ili čekati sping? Također, s obzirom da je u tužni države, treba da ga pokriti ove zime?

  Uzmite ga u zemlju, ne kao nađubriti ne želite neki novi rast na vrhu. Zagrtati biljke to dobro za zimu. To je jednogodišnja zonu 4-9, a tvrd da hortenzija blooms o novim drvo, stoga možete izrezati starih stabala na terenu u kasnu zimu i još cvijeća. Nađubriti u proljeće kada se pojavi novi rast.

• Pješčana Fitzhugh

  Studeni 3, 2005 at 5:42 Odgovori

  Imam "macrophylla" hydrangia da sam u lonac izvana. Kako da ga briga za preko zime ovdje u Ohio? Shvaćam da je otrovan i Imam psa pa sam zabrinuta oko dovođenja ga unutra. U svakom slučaju da ste ga stavljajući ga u proliše zaštititi to?

  Da, možete zadržati spava u garaži ili područja gdje se neće smrznuti. Zamotajte u kontejner s izolacijom zadržati korijene od smrzavanja.

• Joanie

  Siječanj 23, 2006 at 3:25 Odgovori

  Vrlo dobra stranica za nekoga poput mene tko se pokušava rasti neke hydrangias. To je 23. siječanj i ja živimo u Zephyrhills Floridi. Ja kupio prekrasan srednje ružičasta hyrdrangia iz vrta spremati sinoć. Htio bih posaditi vani. Ispred mog lica sjever stan, mogu li ja sada ovo biljka? Mi vrlo rijetko imaju smrznuti upozorenje u ovom području od Floride. Nisam siguran za ime hyrdrangia je, opet, to je srednja hladu ružičasta.
  Puno vam hvala za sve informacije koje vam mogu dati meni.

  Možete posaditi vani sve dok temperatura ne pada ispod 40 stupnjeva. Ako je upozorenje mraz, ja bih preporučio obuhvaća biljne pogotovo ako ste novi sočan rasta. Hladnjak temperatura omogućavaju dobar razvoj korijena.

• keeli srndać

  Travanj 7th, 2006 at 6:37 Odgovori

  Moja hortenzija sam kupio prije 2 godine, kada sam prvi put kupio ga je to bio sjajan i lila ljubičasta boja, nakon sadnje da u velikom loncu svoje vlastite sljedećeg ljeta je okrenuo prljave ružičastoj boji! što sam pronaći vrlo neatraktivan ... Kako mogu dobiti Internet leđa to da je u boji? tla, a što ću koristiti?

  Izigrati za održavanje ljubičasta boja je za dodavanje aluminijum sulfat u tlu. Ako imate alkalna tla morat ćete dodati aluminij sulfat održavati nižu pH-da bi dobili "bluer" boju. Počnite rano u sezoni, kao biljka počne da raste, bit će potrebno neko vrijeme da se promijeni. Nastavi dodajuchi sulfat al svaki mjesec raste tijekom cijele sezone za održavanje boje.

  Michele Wexler (mhwexler@earthlink.net /)
  Mogu ružičasta lisnate biljke biti velika promjena u plavo? Mine dong biljke su vrlo dobro, oni su u vrlo dobroj ujutro spot filtrirani sunce popodne hlad. Shoud sam ukloniti blooms kada su se stare i skrenite na zelenkaste boje?

  Ovisi ako imate H. Macrophylla i pravo kultivara kao što su "Blue Nikko" "Ebziandom ili" Mathilde Gutges. "Oni odgovore najbolje i onda svibanj rasponu od boje lavande do purpurne do plava. Da bi se to poplaveti morate tretirati s aluminij sulfat u proljeće i nastavljamo svaki mjesec za održavanje kisela tla potrebno. Neki kao da biste spremili blooms i suhim ili ih možete izrezati ih nakon što su učinili cvatnje. Macrophylla blooms na staro drvo rezano stoga ne previše jer će utjecati na sljedeću godinu i blještavost.

  Što trebam koristiti kemijski promijeniti hortenzija od ružičaste do plave?

  To nije tako jednostavno kao dodavanja kemijske u tlu. Dva važna faktora potrebno da se promijeni boju su 1. Niski pH tla (oko 5) 2. aluminij sulfat ili sumporski će povećati kiselost i mijenja boju u plavo. Kiselog uvjeti u tlu omoguchiti da pretvori spojevi aluminija, tako da biljka može apsorbirati ga. Color promjena će se dogoditi samo s Hydrangia macrophylla (Bigleaf) koji ima pigmenti. A white-flowered hortenzija neće nikada razviti plavog cvijeća, bez obzira na tlu ph.

• Leanne

  Travanj 14, 2006 at 5:58 Odgovori

  Dobio sam ružičasta Hydrangia vrtna biljka od centra (Costco). Ja sam ne siguran što će učiniti s tim, treba posaditi van ili ostavite ga u lonac da je došao in nije bilo briga ili biljnih vrsta naljepnica. Živim u istočnoj Ontario Canada, vrlo hladne zime. Molimo Vas savjetovati.
  Hvala, Leanne

  Ako je to dar stakleničkih biljka, onda je dobra prilika da nije izdržljiv u Kanadi, te da će umrijeti u zimskim mjesecima. Ove biljke se uzgajaju u kontroliranim uvjetima staklenika za proizvodnju velikih drečeći cvijeće na štetu zdravog postrojenja. Ako je to biljka uzgaja obdanište za vani, šanse su da bi se vrtni centar prodati proizvod koji je otporan na vašem području stranac, ali stvari su se znalo da se dogoditi. Bih još posaditi i nade za najbolje. Bilo kako bilo, nemate šta da labave. Kris

• Vivian

  Travanj 16, 2006 at 1:18 Odgovori

  Ja recentely kupili 6 hydrangeas. Ja ih ostavi u lonce za nekoliko dana i sve je bilo u redu. Prije tjedan dana, ja ih zasadi u području koje je u sjeni do večeri nedjelja Sada sve od blooms su drooping na zemlju i sve curled up, i ostavlja drooping se s nekima od njih krt na rubovima. Što sam to krivo? Oni su po dolasku zali rasprskivač sustav u našem dvorištu. Učinio sam mnogo istraživanja o hyrdrangeas zasadih prije nego što sam ih, i ne mogu zamisliti što je problem. Can you help! Molim!
  Vivian, N. Texas

  Vaš hydrangeas su u transplant šok i treba vremena da se oporavim. Što se tiče zalijevanje, na rasprskivač nije najbolji način da se voda. To može uzrokovati više problema, pokušajte se vode na razini tla, kao što su curenje crijevo. Opći preporuku, ovisno o vremenskim prilikama i temperatura je nadomak vode / dva puta tjedno dok se biljka dividende.

• Kristina Andrzejewski

  Svibanj 7, 2006 at 5:16 Odgovori

  Živim u North East (Massachusetts). Posljednje ljeto sam zasadih H. Macrophylla. Nisam orezati biljke prije zime. Sada je proljeće (nisam pruned) i hortenzija izgleda da budu mrtvi. Krajevi tih "mrtvih" grane su suzu ispustiti oblik i suha. Jesu li ove nove pupoljci? Također postoje zeleno lišće u podnožju biljke. Je li prekasno da obrezuj? Ja sam zbunjena.

  Ako se krajevi su tamno i suho je vjerojatno neki zimski šteta što će utjecati na cvjetovi za ovu godinu. Ako imate "Endless Summer" hortenzija onda svibanj pa ipak dobiti neki cvijeća. Postrojenja je i dalje živi kao što je slanje novih rastu iz korijena. Nakresati oštećene dijelu grane do zdravog dijela u repić. Sljedeća pada zaštitili svoj hortenzija by wrapping grane u plastice ovratnik na sličan ruža membrana.

• Amanda Snyder

  Svibanj 19, 2006 at 3:19 Odgovori

  Imam HOBELLA & HOMIGO hortenzija. Možete li mi reći što sam ja tip dealling s koliko ne cvatu na starim ili novim drva. Isto tako, u čemu je razlika između Hydranga s malom list ili jedan sa velikim list, kakav lik razlike postoje? Hvala za bilo koji info milijuna možete dati meni. Amanda S.

  Hobella je lacecap u mekanu ružičastoj i Homigo je mophead Pink-plavi obje su iz Hovaria seriji prodali pod culitvars Kaleidoscope of hortenzija macrophylla. Oni cvatu na staro drvo.

• Janet

  8. lipnja 2006 at 6:11 Odgovori

  Što mogu učiniti s bijelim prašnjav plijesan na moj hydrangeas? Je li opasno u grmlje? Što je uzrokovalo? Živim u dubokom jugu.

  Prašnjav plijesan je uzrokovano toplim dan temperaturama, cool noći i visoka vlažnost zraka, također biljke rastu u hladu, s malo cirkulaciju zraka. Hydrangeas Čini se da je prijemčiv za njega. Neke vrste su otporne na više od drugih. Ostali unsigthly od osjećaja, to ne štetu ususally postrojenja. Neki lijekovi za provjeru članak na prašnjav plijesan.

• jeffrey

  Srpanj 13th, 2006 at 12:44 Odgovor

  Kako mogu propagirati hydrangia? koliko granu mogu isjeći na presaditi da bi više biljke. i što je najbolje prljavštine koristiti za početak to.

  Uzmi 4-6 "meko drvo iz novih rezanje rasta s najmanje 4 oka (pupoljci). Krenite na lišće od dna set pupoljci i rezati vrh ostavlja na pola. To pomaže smanjiti gubitak vlage kroz lišće. Dip od rezanja u rooting hormon i stavi 2 "u dubokoj soiless mješavinu perlite i tresetnica. Dajte joj dobro natapanje. Imajte kontejner daleko od izravne nedjelja na idealnoj temperaturi od 70-75. Za održavanje ili povećanje vlage / vlažnost mjesto kontejnera u plastičnu vrećicu pomoću štapa napraviti mini staklenik. Budite sigurni da ne dobijete previše vruća iznutra kao što će kuhati postrojenja. Nemojte ostaviti previše mokro, voda tlo kada izgleda lakši i kao da je sušenje out. Vaš rezanje trebali korijen u 3-5 wks. Jednom ukorijenjena, znojiti se i polako izlažite ga ujutro nedjelja Ako je dugonog prikliještiti ga natrag promovirati bushier rasta. Najbolje vrijeme za to je u proljeće, tako da biljka ima dovoljno vremena da se razvije jak korijenski sustav za zimu.

• Pavao

  Srpanj 30th, 2006 at 10:54 Odgovor

  Ja nemam zelenom palac, ali moj postrojenja rade iznimno dobro. Htjela bih sepecific, detaljne informacije o obrezivanje njima. Imam hydrangias koji cvatu cijelo vrijeme.
  Oni su trenutno "loaded" s blooms, ali ne znam koliko daleko od cvijet da zatrem. Neki od cvijeća su sada utrošeno i želim ih orezati.
  Ja sam težak to shvatiti ako moram obrezuj nijednom zeleno lišće.
  Hvala. Pavao

  Ako isključite jednostavno poraz mrtvih cvjetova, isjeći ih odmah ispod cvijet do slijedećeg seta pupoljci. Ne bih obrezuj bilo koji ostavlja u ovom trenutku. Ne znam točno što hortenzija imate najbolje je orezati u rano proljeće nakon svih pupoljci na povratku, na taj način moći ćete reći što preživjeli zimu. Ako imate hortenzija arborescens & paniculata (Annabelle & piškiti gees) koji raste na novi rast možete izrezati ih nazad 1 / 2. Ovo će oblik biljke i potaknuti rast nove sa puno cvijeća.

• LOIS PRATT

  Kolovoz 1, 2006 at 5:16 Odgovori

  Imam pitanje .... Zašto moja hortenzija biljka OBRAZAC I pupoljci skrenuti BROWN I NIKADA cvatu?

  Cvijet pupoljci na vašem hortenzija svibanj biti zaraženo Botrytis, a gljivične bolesti također poznat kao sivu plijesan. Ona napada sve biljne dijelove i je rezultate kiša, stoji voda, dometnut zalijevanje ili rosa na temperaturama između 32-84 stupnjeva. Try to avoid any overhead watering that is usually the culprit. You can treat it with a fungicide before blooming to reduce the infection. Botrytis will winter over in the soil and on plant debris, so be sure to remove and destroy any infected plant parts.

• Jim knapp

  December 14th, 2006 at 12:28 pm · Reply

  I have three hydrangeas and all three have died back to ground level this fall. One did the same last year. It had one small bud at ground level and I nursed it back to 18″ this year. What is causing them to die to ground level?

  It may be variety of hydrangea. Some are hardier than others and if you have one that is marginally hardy, perhaps a H. macrophylla, then it will die back from the freezing temperatures. Fortunately, the roots did not die and that’s why they send up new growth in the spring. Try mulching and protecting it as you would a rose bush to keep the stems from freezing. For winter protection mulch it with pine bark, leaves. One elaborate way is to trim the blooms and foliage and tie the stalks together and then slip a plastic collar (made from a nursery pot) over the plant and fill it will mulch. Wrap the tied stems with landscape fabric. This will keep the crown and stems snug and cozy for the winter

  .

• sandra

  April 5th, 2007 at 10:33 am · Reply

  i planted my hydrangia plants five of them about a week ago and last night we had a temps below 32 degrees and now they are wilted and maybe even a little brown will they be ok?

  Even if a plant is hardy, the emerging delicate growth is not as hardy as mature developed growth. There is not much you can do about the frost damage. Depending on the severity of damage, the plants may or may not recover. Wait and see, if the wilted branches do not recover prune them and you should get some new growth. If another frost is imminent cover the plants to protect the new growth. Depending on the type of hydrangea, you may have lost your flowers for the season.

• dcBird

  May 14th, 2007 at 3:44 pm · Reply

  I have one oakleaf hydrangea (got last year) and is doing beautifully. already grew almost 4 feet. What do I fertilize it with and when. I also planted 13 Endless Summer Hydrangea ad they are doing great. What’s for fertilizing then and when. Thanks.

  Fertilize hydrangea in early spring as new growth emerges with a 10-10-10 granular scattered around base of the plant and outward and 6 wks. later after blooming to encourage healthy growth. Follow manufacturers application recommendation. Do not fertilize after Aug. 1st.

• Donna

  May 15th, 2007 at 8:56 pm · Reply

  I just bought 4 of the new blushing brides (macrophylla’s ) 2 are white and the other 2 are blue. While I haven’t got to enjoy my first bloom just yet something is enjoying my leaves while I’m waiting for my new babies to bloom. Any Idea’s on what it my be and whats safe as a pesticide to put on my plants? I live in the Southeastern part of Guilford County in North Carolina if that’s of any help…..

  In general, Hydrangeas have little insect problems but I’m sure something has found your plant appetizing enough to eat. Some insects that can attack your plant are rose chafers, four-lined plant bug (causes round brown spots on leaves), horntail. Examine your plants closely to see if there are any insects (some show up at night). I would suggest you take the damaged leaf to where you bought it or to the local extension office to ID the problem. They can in turn give you a recommendation for an insecticide.

• Diane Carr

  June 3rd, 2007 at 9:14 pm · Reply

  I live in East TN. I planted a pink hydrangia several years ago. The leaves come back each year, but I never get to see the flowers, because the deer eat it. Is there anything I can do to keep the deer away?

  You can spray the plants with a deer repellent such as Liquid Fence (I smells bad). Repellents should be used early in the season before the deer get a taste of the plant and they need to be re-applied after a rain. Your other option is a 7 ft. fence. Make your own Deer repellent recipe

• Leslie

  June 23rd, 2007 at 4:40 pm · Reply

  Thanks so much! How much sun is ok for hydrangias ? The patio gets some morning sun. Also, how often should they be watered?

  Hydrangea likes morning sun(min 3 hrs. of direct sun) and afternoon shade. In cooler climates it will tolerate more sun conversely in hotter climates will tolerate more shade. The patio sounds fine. Water in the morning an inch of water once or twice a week depending on the weather. Be careful not to overwater.

• Julia Curry

  July 25th, 2007 at 6:46 am · Reply

  I PLANTED 2 LIME LIGHT HYDRANGEAS THIS YEAR. THEY GET FULL SUN. THEY STARTED OUT FINE, THEN THEY APPEAR TO HAVE THINNED-OUT, HAVE SOME LEAF DROP, BLOOMS ARE VERY SMALL. MY DAUGHERTER PLANTED HERS AT THE SAME TIME — THEY HAVE DOUBLED IN SIZE, BLOOMS ARE HUGE AND GORGEOUS. WHAT’S WRONG WITH MINE? ONE OTHER THING, I’VE NOTICE A WHITE MOTH-LIKE INSECT SO I’VE SPRAYED WITH INSECT. SOAP AND SEVIN. ALSO PLANTED IN THIS BED ARE MORNING GLORIES, MOON FLOWER, PHOLX, BLUE SAGE. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE MOST WELCOMED! THANKING YOU IN ADVANCE…

  Your hydrangeas don’t seem to like the location as much as your daughters plants. It can be a matter of soil drainage, how much sun and watering. Hydrangeas like sun in the AM, and in warmer climates may like 1/2 day of sun. The soil should be rich, well drained and kept moist. Another factor you may consider is that it is competing for nutrients and water with all the neighboring plants in the flower bed. Prune your plants in the winter and fertilize in spring after they have leafed out. It should give them a good start for the growing season. If they don’t improve consider moving them to a new location.

• Pam Kamath

  January 11th, 2008 at 12:24 pm · Reply

  My pink Hydrangia in a large container has fared very well the past 2 years. Now, in Dallas, its dormant and we are all ready for its showy early summer blooms. Can I break the root into 2 and repot the 2nd one? I really would love to see them in 2 separate pots.

  If you have a well established large plant, you can divide it while the plant is dormant or early spring. Be sure to tease out the roots and get 2 subtantial clumps of a rooting sytem. Uof GA.

• Linnea

  January 25th, 2008 at 6:01 pm · Reply

  I should have looked here first, however…we recently bought a home and with it, a whole back yard full of plants and trees I’ve never taken care of before. i was told to cut back my hydrangias all the way to about 8″. I do not know what kind they were but I think the flowers were purplish-blue and large. I live in Edmonds Washington(just north of Seattle), and I think I may have killed them. Is there a possibility they will grow back? They were beautiful late last summer when we bought the house. It is now Jan. Any hope?

  Hi Linnea
  Your hydrangeas will come back in the spring and put out new growth. The only question would be if they will bloom this year. If you have hydrangeas that bloom on old and new growth such as “Endless summer”, then you should get flowers. Those that bloom on old wood from the previous year’s growth such as Bigleaf hydrangeas will not bloom or have much fewer flowers this year. Time will tell. Fertilize the plants with a 10-10-10 in late winter to e. spring before growth starts. Spread the fertilizer at the base of the plant.

• Krystal

  March 20th, 2008 at 11:48 am · Reply

  I purchased two hydrangeas 4 days ago. The bigger one is lime green and the smaller is lilac/purple colored. Late at nite, they droop and start to look dead. But in the day time, the look well alive. However, when the lime green one blooms, its flowers start to look more white/pale lime green. What am i doing wrong? I live in a condo in Canada, and i am not sure of what is affecting it. I water them enough so that the soil is not dry, and they get indirect sunlight. How should i care for them best when i live in a condo, and how long will they last. Can someone please give me some advice?

  Hi Krystal
  It sounds like you have a greenhouse hydrangea. The lime green is the initial color and then it turns a cream color-most likely the variety since there are so many. See the article on Florist hydrangea which should give you information on care and watering problems

  .

• vicki

  March 26th, 2008 at 5:22 am · Reply

  We live outside of St Louis, I have a beautiful pink hydrangea and I don’t know what type of soil and drainage is needed to keep it healthy. Our yard is small but I do have full shade, part shade and full sun. From reading others notes, I understand it is probably best part sun. My biggest problem is water , our yard slopes toward the house. It stays wet for quit some time when we have even a little of rain. I would like it close to the house, but, it that is where the soil is very wet. After a rain it normally takes a few days for the soil to dry. Please help!

  You might want to consider building a raised bed toward the house. They are great for areas that have heavy clay or soil that drains poorly. Make it about 6 -8 inches high and fill it with well-drained organic soil with peat moss added which will provide good drainage and ideal root conditions. Replant your hydrangea in the raised bed and place a 2 inch layer of mulch on top. Ideal time is in early spring so you need to do it ASAP before it leafs out .

• rene williams

  May 7th, 2008 at 4:22 pm · Reply

  CAN I GROW MY FLORIST HYDRANGEA MACROPHYLIA OUTDOORS IF SO HOW AND WHERE

  Most H. macrophylla are hardy from zone 7a and up. You can plant it outdoors in sun to part shade. If it is not hardy in your area then you will have to grow it in a container and bring it in for the winter. For more info see florist hydrangea

• Gloria Jean

  May 20th, 2008 at 4:27 pm · Reply

  I live in Milwaukee WI, near Lake Michigan. I have Nikko and All Summer Beauty-Serrata. I was told NOT to prune last fall. Now, this spring, I have long “sticks” coming out of the ground, with green leaves starting to form at ground level. Is this normal. I was told to put rusty nails in the soil around the plants to keep the blooms blue… is this true or just a myth??

  What may have happened is that your hydrangea has some winter kill. The “sticks” were damaged by freezing temperatures and now its sending out new growth from the roots. If that is the case Nikkko blue will not bloom this season as it blooms on last seasons growth. Trim down any dead stems (be sure they are dead). All Summer Beauty should bloom this year even if damaged on any new growth. You may want to wrap or protect the Nikko blue next winter.
  Rusty nails is more of a myth-yes, you will get some minute amount of iron but that won’t affect the flower color and it’s not enough to green up the plant.

• Bob

  May 24th, 2008 at 8:50 am · Reply

  My hydrangia plant stems are curling and twisting at all angles. What could cause this?

  Have you or your neighbor sprayed with any herbicides lately? Are the leaves distorted?

• Laurie Adrian

  June 8th, 2008 at 8:31 am · Reply

  I dont have a comment, but rather a question. I have a blue endless summer plant . I transplanted it in a large pot that sets on a patio in front of the house. It gets mostly sun from about 8 to 3. I noticed that a few of the blooms have been getting black on them. What could be causing this?

  Hi Laurie
  Are the flowers getting wet either by rain or overhead spraying? Do you have any spots on the leaves? If so, you may have Botrytis on the flowers causing them to turn brown. It could also be environmental, such as too much sun, Endless summer hydrangea likes morning sun and afternoon shade (newly planted needs some protection until the roots are fully developed).

• Susan Piper

  June 12th, 2008 at 12:12 pm · Reply

  How can I remedy curling leaves (with spit underneath) without using pesticides? I have a Nikki Blue

  Try a strong spray of water or put on some gloves and remove it manually.

• debisweeney

  July 6th, 2008 at 11:09 am · Reply

  HAVE HYDRANGEAS THAT WERE HERE WHEN MOVED IN 4 YEARS AGO. HAD BLOOMED BIG BEAUTIFUL 1ST YR. NOW FLOWERS FORM, BUT ONLY A FEW BUDS OPEN LIKE A LACE CAP AND THEN ALL TURNS BROWN. THERE IS SOME LEAF SPOT LATER IN SEASON. WE ARE ZONE 5,HAVE SPRINKLER SYSTEM. PLANTS LOCATED NS SIDE SO GETS AM SUN AND EVENING.
  THINK A FUNGUS, MAYBE? THANKS

  It’s possible, that you have a watering problem. If the sprinklers are spraying the flowers it will invite fungal and bacterial pathogens that cause the flowers to turn brown, in addition the water on the leaves can also cause the leaf spot. Its best to water the hydrangea at the soil line.

• cpeyton

  July 6th, 2008 at 8:40 pm · Reply

  please tell me if you have to buy a yellow hydrangia or how to change a blue hydrangia to yellow

  I don’t know of any yellow hydrangea as of yet, although there may be a new cultivar down the road. The blue will not change to yellow.

• Susan Hope Engel

  July 13th, 2008 at 11:53 am · Reply

  We live in Evanston, Illinois, and have a huge Annabelle that is full and balanced at the beginning of the summer but separates after the first heavy rain. Do you recommend underplanting something around it to help keep the blooms upright? Thank you.

  HI Susan
  I don’t think an under planting will help support your plant. Your Annabelle hydrangea will just flop over it. You can try some supports like peony rings.
  Since it blooms on new wood so you can get more aggressive with pruning. Cut it back to 1/2 in early spring so when it sends out new growth it will develop stronger stems to support the flowers. If you cut it more (6″ stubs) then you may get too vigorous growth and big flowers that fall over in a heavy rain.

• marianne rendulic

  July 13th, 2008 at 5:34 pm · Reply

  I love the look of hydrangeas in the landscape. I have a space about 6′ x 5′ where I would love to see a hydrangea! It is light shade but gets wind in the winter, Zone 5. I would like to maintain a hydrangea of about 3-4 feet, if possible. This would be a specimen plant along a walkway. We also have a lot of deer in the area.
  Does anyone have suggestions for a good choice for this site, and will the deer eat the buds or new flowers?

• Barb

  July 15th, 2008 at 8:56 am · Reply

  Need planting advice for a shooting star hydrangia . When to plant, type of sun and soil, etc. It was a gift so I will need to plant it. I live in the Ozarks with plenty of sun and heat.

  Hi Barb
  Shooting Star Hydrangea belongs to H. macrophylla and is hardy in zones 7-9. Plant it in the fall (cooler weather) in semi shade(AM sun)well-drained rich soil. If you get an unusual freeze cover it to protect the flower buds. It blooms on old wood so care must to taken when pruning. Prune (deadhead) after bloom to maintain size and thin out old branches to reduce size when needed.

• tracey

  July 21st, 2008 at 7:18 am · Reply

  MY HUSBAND AND I BOUGHT A PINK DIAMOND HYDRANGEA TREE (PANICULATA)
  ABOUT 5 DAYS AGO. IT GET 2 HOURS OF SUN IN THE MORNING AND ABOUT 4 IN THE AFTERNOON. HE WATERS IT ONCE A DAY. HE PUTS THE HOSE BY THE ROOTS FOR ABOUT 15-20 MINUTES. ALL THE LEAVES ARE COMPLETELY BROWN AND CRISP AND DROOPING. IT LOOKS DEAD ALREADY. WHAT ARE WE DOING WRONG?
  HOW CAN WE SAVE IT?

  Hi Tracey
  You need to let the plant dry out between watering. Watering every day is too often and drowning the roots. Watering every 2-3 days depending on weather conditions would be sufficient. I don’t know if the plant will survive.

• peter davies

  July 23rd, 2008 at 1:48 am · Reply

  i havewhat looks like white cotten buds on the stems and underneath the leaves what are they and how do i treat it

  It sounds like mealy bugs .

• Pat

  July 24th, 2008 at 5:04 pm · Reply

  I live in western MI. I have just planted two Spreading Beauty Hydrangeas. They have flowered and the flowers are now spent. Do I prune them now or in the fall and how do I prune? Also what type of fertilizer do they need and how often?

  Hi Pat
  Spreading Beauty hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata) belongs to the H. macrophylla which blooms on last season’s growth. Because your hydrangea is newly planted cut just below the old flower stem to a pair of leaves. If you cut further down you will be removing some flower buds for next year’s bloom. In the spring you may need to cut away any winter damage. Fertilize in the early spring with a balanced fertilizer and a second light feeding right after bloom but not later than Aug 1. You don’t want to encourage new growth that may not harden before the cold weather.

• Bonnie Jo

  July 28th, 2008 at 9:31 pm · Reply

  Two Questions….. (1)I have had a hydrangia plant for the past 10 years but it has never bloomed. It’s very large. It gets some sun and shade throughout the day. In the late spring I have trimmed back, what looks like, dead stalks. (2) Just this year, however, I have noticed several new hydrangia plants scattered throughout my garden, some with pink blooms. How’d they get there?

  Hi Bonnie
  You may have a H. macrophylla that blooms on old wood(last year’s growth). It may not bloom for several reasons 1. too much shade 2. cold damage 3. pruning. Your hydrangea may be marginally hardy in your area in that the flower buds freeze in the winter or late frost in spring. If it is too large ,cut it back by 1/3 - 1/2 this fall and see what happens next season. You have nothing to loose. Protect it as you would a rose bush to keep the stems from freezing. For winter protection mulch it with pine bark, leaves. One elaborate way is to trim the foliage and tie the stalks together and then slip a plastic collar (made from a nursery pot) over the plant and fill it will mulch. Wrap the tied stems with landscape fabric. This will keep the crown and stems snug and cozy for the winter.
  You might have new plants from layering -a propagation method where part of the existing branch is covered by soil and eventually roots develop making a new plant. Another thing that might have happened is a neighboring hydrangea seeds and made their way to your garden. Are the new plants in more sun? If so there is a possibility that the large plant is in too much shade.

• Judy C.

  August 20th, 2008 at 10:58 am · Reply

  I have a blue endless summer hydrangea . It has been blue for the past two summers I have had it. This year we have had sooooo much rain (Southeastern Maine) and now the blooms have turned blue. I understand the ph soil thing and assume the heavy rain must have had some impact. My question is whether it is too late(Late August) to try/or too late to bother to change the blooms back by treating the soil. Should I just wait and see what happens next spring?

  Hi Judy
  I’m assuming you meant the blooms turned pink. Treating the soil this time of year(August) will not change the color of the blooms on your hydrangea but it can lower the ph which will help for next year. To change the color of bloom, start treating the soil on a regular schedule with aluminum sulfate in spring as soon as new growth starts and before flowers form. You may want to test the soil ph before starting treatment. If your plant is in a container, soil ph will be much easier to control. Conversely, if in the ground, your soil may be more alkaline and trying to maintain blue flowers can become an endless battle.

• Julie Hart

  August 20th, 2008 at 10:56 pm · Reply

  After I planted my hydrangea it wilted and the leaves on top of the stalk turned brown. I pruned them off, but they never got new leaves where the old ones were. The new leaves came lower and I have a bare stalk above. The flowers also had brown spots, Why is this?

  Hi Julie
  Your hydrangea, most likely, had some dieback from transplant shock when the stalks turned brown. The new leaves at the base are a good sign that the plant is growing and will survive. The brown spots on the blooms indicate a fungal blight disease that is spread by overhead watering and spraying. Mulch around the plant with 2″ of organic material to maintain even moisture.

• Julie Hart

  August 21st, 2008 at 10:25 am · Reply

  Thank You That helped me alot. Shall I cut the dead brown stalk off that I mentioned, down to the green leaves or should I just leave them. Should I cut the flowers off? Thank You

  Julie, I’m glad I could be of help.
  Yes, you can cut off the brown stalk up to the green part. Don’t cut off any green growth because you really don’t want to stimulate the plant to start new growth as it may not harden off before winter. If the flowers are unsightly cut them off otherwise you can leaves them. Cut the flower heads right underneath the base of the flower.

• Kay Schrope

  September 3rd, 2008 at 7:40 am · Reply

  I have a Blushing Bride hydrangea. It is planted by the house on the southwest corner. It gets some afternoon sun. The leaves have brown spots on them. What should I do? Thanks, KAY

  Hi Kay
  There are a few leaf spot diseases that attack hydrangea, one prevelant in mid-summer to fall is Cercrospora leaf spot. The circular brown/purple spots first appear on the lower leaves. The center of the spots turn tan/light gray and are surrounded by brown/purple halo. The spores are spread by splashing water and frequent rains. The disease starts at the bottom and works it way up. Since it is late in the growing season, fungicide treatment is not recommended. Make sure you remove all infected leaves after they drop as the disease can winter over on them. If the leaf spot shows up next year which is most likely, spray the plant with a fungicide as soon as you see it. Another leaf spot disease Anthractnose causes large dark brown irregular blotches that occur all over the leaves and flowers in hot, wet weather. The treatment would be the same. http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1212/

• Michelle Maurice

  September 7th, 2008 at 10:31 pm · Reply

  I just purchased a very nice hydrangia from a well known “place” (Not a big box store) in Fresno. It has lovely variegated leaves, sorry, don’t know what type it is. But, I kept it in it’s one gal pot for a few days, then planted it in the south west corner of my garden. It gets several hours of morning sun, then is shaded by a tree (pepper tree) & fence for the rest of the day. It looks all nice a perky in the am to early afternoon, and has since I planted it about a week ago, then starts the leaves start to droop. I’ve even noticed that some are getting crispy on the ends. I water it daily (about a gal or so) as it has been 95 to 101 here in Fresno. What an I doing wrong? and what can I do to make sure the plant doesn’t die? The would kill me because it’s my first hydrangea. Thanks for any help you can offer. Also, the place sold me some “Hydrangia Blue” which I have not applied, to keep the blooms (when & if it blooms) blue. Does this stuff work? Thanks again!

  Hi Michelle
  Part of the problem is that your hydrangea is still in transplant shock and the hot weather doesn’t help. As long as you are keeping it moist -not too wet, it should slowly develop new roots and adjust to the new environment. The soil should be well-drained (not clay). Mulch around the plant with 2″ of organic material (wood chips, straw etc.) to keep the roots evenly moist. Once the weather cool down then it should perk up.
  Hydrangea Blue-I’m not familiar with it. Most likely, its aluminum sulfate used to acidify the soil.

• Gordon Wright

  September 23rd, 2008 at 9:59 am · Reply

  My mother has 3 hydrangias in Ottawa On so our weather gets quite cold. They have large cream colored blooms. Last winter the flowers were attacked by local rabbits over the winter, then 2 bloomed 1 did not. Can we cut off the dead blooms to keep the rabbits away. if so how much can we cut back. Thanks

  Hi Gordon
  I’m not sure what type of hydrangea you have. My guess is that its a H. paniculata (PeeGee) or H. arborescens (Annabelle).
  Both bloom on new wood, therefore you can cut the old stems to the ground or 6″ above the soil line, in LATE winter and still have flowers. Fertilize in the spring when new growth appears.

• Julie E. Hart

  October 2nd, 2008 at 10:09 am · Reply

  Winter protection Nikko blue hydrangea
  Should I wrap my Niko Blue in Burlap or Plastic to survive a Northern Montana Winter or should I just leave it uncovered?

  Hi Julie
  Nikko blue is listed as hardy zone 6-9 but can be grown in zone 5 with winter protection. It is marginal in your area so you need to protect it from the winter. In November after a hard freeze, tie the stems together with twine, then slip a plastic rose collar over the plant and fill it with pine mulch, leaves or straw to cover the crown. For larger plant make a collar from a small garbage can(open top). Wrap mesh hardware cloth around the cone or can to keep it in place. Another way is to wrap it with hardware cloth or chicken wire and fill it with pine bark and then wrap the outside with permeable landscape cloth or burlap. The insulation should be able to “breathe” and maintain an even temperature. If a plant is wrapped in plastic it can get too hot in the winter sun and then freeze when night temperatures drop.

• Meagen

  November 19th, 2008 at 3:45 pm · Reply

  I have 2 Endless Summer Hydrangeas that I planted in Spring and they did great. We have had several freezes and now my leaves are wilted and falling off and my blooms are brown. Is that the end of my plants or is this common for Winter. Is there something that I can do to protect them?

  Hi Meagen
  They are done for the year. See Endless summer hydrangea for winter protection info.

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