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Growing Peppers

Peppers are considered a warm season vegetable. There are many varieties of peppers ranging from sweet to hot. One of the oldest and popular garden varieties is the sweet, thick-walled bell pepper ‘California Wonder’ introduced by C.C. Morse in 1928. Peppers are warm-weather plants that take 70-90 days to mature. In the colder climates, peppers should be started from seeds two months before planting in the garden.

Starting peppers
Peppers do best when started from seeds. They require temperatures of 78-80 degrees and can take 3 weeks to germinate.
Before setting plants in the garden they need to be “hardened off“. This is done by setting the plants outdoors in a protected area when daytime temperatures are in the 60’s and bringing them inside at night. Gradually increase exposure each day for a week or more. Avoid direct sun and too much wind. When nighttime temps reach 60 degrees and the danger of frost has passed, plant seedlings in full sun (8-10 hrs) spacing 18-24 inches apart. Transplants should be planted at the same depth as grown in their container- too deep can suffocate the roots. Don’t plant peppers where you previously grew tomatoes, potatoes and eggplant. They all belong in the same Solanaceous family and are susceptible to the same soil borne diseases.
If night temperatures drop below 55 degrees or lower, peppers will grow very slowly, foliage will turn yellow and the flowers (if any) will drop off.

Care
Peppers prefer a well-drained, rich loamy soil. Use a starter fertilizer such as Quick Start (4-12-4) when transplanting and provide 1 inch of water per week throughout the growing season. Uniform moisture is essential. Overhead watering is not recommended especially when the plants are in bloom as it will wash away the pollen and eliminate fruiting. Be careful not to apply too much fertilizer as adding too much nitrogen will give you a large leafy plant and no fruit. Once a crop of peppers is set, use an organic fertilizer with a low nitrogen ratio such as 1-3-3.

Hot, dry winds and dry soil prevent fruit set. So, if you live in a region with extremely hot temperatures look for peppers with” TAM” (Texas A&A) or Numex in their names. They were bred to set fruit in temperatures above 100 degrees.

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Would someone teach me how to sucessfully plant and grow sweet corn?

Depending on the cultivar, sweet corn needs 60-100 warm days to grow. I do not think that would be a problem in S. Florida. It also requires 8 to 10 hours of full sun, good drainage and lots of room. In warm soils, plant seeds 1-2 inches deep, in groups or hills with 3-4 seeds in them. Space the hills about 1 1/2 ft  apart. Seeds may also be sown in single rows of 9 inches apart, spacing 2 to 3 feet between rows, with a minimum of 4 rows to assure cross pollination. Corn is a heavy feeder and needs ample nutrients to produce, therefore, before planting apply 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of one and a 1/2 pounds per 100 square feet to the soil. When the corn gets about one and 1/2 feet tall, again side-dress with 10-10-10. Once the plants are tasseling and silking make sure it has at least one inch of water per week. Do not allow wilting at this time as it will affect pollination and kernel development.
Harvest when ears have filled in with milky juice and silks begin to turn brown. This occurs about 20 days after the first silk strands appear. Pick before the racoons and grackles find out that your corn is ready. They find it irresistible and so will you! The ears should be eaten as soon as possible, or refrigerated. Once picked, the sugars decrease rapidly and starch content increases. Sweet corn is well worth the effort once you taste the fresh picked ears.

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Potted bulbs (tulips, daffodils and hyacinths) add a refreshing touch of Spring indoors during the winter months. Once they are done blooming, you can do one of two things either discard them into your compost pile or save the bulbs for the next season. I choose the later. In order to utilize the bulbs for the next year, you should remove the flower head, keep the soil evenly moist and let the foliage die back. Never remove the leaves until they have completely turned brown and pull away. This will store up energy for the next season’s bloom. The bulbs should be firm, free from soft spots and not have an unpleasant ordor, if they do they should be thrown out. Saved bulbs can either be planted in the spring as soon as the weather permits or kept in the pot and planted in the fall. Plant your bulbs in a well-drained area as too much water can rot your bulbs. It takes forced potted tulips 2-3 years to rebloom outdoors.

-If you store any bulbs in the refrigerator keep them away from fruit and vegetables. The ethylene gas they emit will disfigure or abort the developing flower.

Did you know tulip petals are edible. The flavor depends on the variety. The petals taste like sweet lettuce or baby peas, some have a cucumber texture and flavor. Before you eat make sure they are pesticide-free or organically grown and do not eat the bulb.

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