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CHRISTMAS CACTUS

One of the more popular flowering plants around the holidays is the Schlumbergera bridgesii better known as the Christmas cactus. It offers a profusion of tubular flowers that bloom for two to four weeks around Christmas time.

Originating from Brazil, this jungle cactus lives on trees and is different from the desert cactus in that it is the trailing type and does not require direct sunlight. At times there can be confusion as to which type of Schlumbergera you have. Christmas cacti have flattened leaves with scallop-edged margins that are smooth and spineless with tubular 3 inch flowers, as opposed to the Thanksgiving cactus (Zygocactus truncates)(S. truncatus) crab cactus, which has sharply toothed edges with two large teeth at the end of the last joint on each branch. and shorter tubed flowers with spreading pointed petals. To add to this confusion there is also the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) which grows more upright, has fibrous hairs at the joints and produces different flowers. It is the more difficult one to grow. All bloom close to their respective holidays under normal growing conditions.

Christmas cactus care

Not only are these cacti so popular because of their spectacular blooming habit but also because they are relatively easy to care for. They require a rich, well drained soil, bright indirect light and a daytime temperature of 70 degrees and night temperature of 60-65. Feed it with a balanced houseplant fertilizer between April and October. Christmas cactus is not drought tolerant. Water the plants thoroughly and let them dry out between watering. Do not ignore it or kill it with kindness. The leaves will wrinkle if the soil is too dry and when over watered which can lead to root rot. Water less in the winter. Prune the plants in the summer to encourage more branching by pinching off at the joints.

 When the flower buds begin to show, place the plant in bright light and temperatures (60-70F).  The plant will no longer require long nights and cooler temperatures. Once the flower buds are formed, try not to move the plant to a different location as it may cause the buds to drop.  
When in bloom keep the plant moderately moist (not too wet). If the leaves get limp and flabby you may be overwatering the plant. Too much light can fade the flowers. Do not expose them to direct heat, cold drafts. Fertilize lightly with a high potassium fertilizer when the buds form and continue until the flowers fade. When the plant is finished blooming withhold water for 6 weeks allowing it to rest. In early spring, when new growth starts to show, resume feeding and watering.

Reblooming

With a little effort and understanding, one can repeat the flowering process year after year. There are two important factors that encourage bud formation 1. Long nights – Christmas cactus requires at least 14 hours of darkness for 5-6 weeks. 2. Prolonged cool temperatures of 50-55 degrees for 6 weeks. If kept at 55F, some Christmas cacti will bloom regardless of daylength. Bud formation will not happen if temperatures are above 70 degrees. Keep the plant on the dry side until you see buds form, then resume normal watering and light feeding.

Give your Christmas cactus a little love and care and it will flourish for years. Some do so well that they have been known to be passed down in families for generations.

The stem cuttings can be rooted and started as new plants.

Instead of a Christmas tree some may opt for a Norfolk pine (Araucaria heterophylla)which is usually available in stores before Christmas. It may be sold plain or decorated to serve as an alternate mini Christmas tree for those with little space. Once the holiday is over, the Norfolk pine can double as a patio or long-lasting houseplant.

Norfolk pine, belongs to the ancient genus of evergreen conifers, Araucaria, which includes the newly discovered extinct Wollemi pine. It is hardy in zone 10-11. In the wild this semi-tropical tree can get up to 200 ft. tall and grows a massive straight tree trunk with symmetrical lateral branches that produce an impressive sight in the landscape; but when grown indoors as a potted houseplant the diminutive version usually grows up to 8 ft. tall.

Care

Indoors, provide a cool, bright filtered light, humid environment with temperatures of 60-72F during the day and slightly cooler at night. They prefer a few hours of direct sun but can adapt to bright indirect light. Be sure to rotate the plant to maintain a symmetric shape and keep the plant from leaning over to one side. They also need 50% humidity which can be difficult to provide during the dry heating season in winter. Some ways to increase humidity is to run a humidifier or if possible use a pebble tray filled with water. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry and let the water drain from the bottom. Do not let it stand in water or saturate the soil, over watering will cause bright yellow needles that eventually fall off. Conversely, keeping the plant too dry with low humidity will cause brown tips. Keep it away from heating vents or cold drafts which can dry out the needles.
Feed your plant when it is actively growing (not winter) with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Feed new, younger plants every 4-6 months and older plants every 3-4 months.
Repot every 3-4 years.
Prune only brown dead lower branches. Do not cut off the growing tips. If the growing top is damaged, it will not be replaced and you will get a misshapen tree.
Pests: Common pests that attack Norfolk pines are spider mites, scale and mealybugs.

Did you know: In nature, Norfolk pine cones take 18 months to mature, then breaks down and the scales produce edible seeds that Green parrots favor.

BLEEDING HEART (Dicentra spectabilis)
A native of Japan, this beautiful delicate perennial produces arching branches with sprays of dangling heart-shaped flowers that are pink with white tips or solid white. The plant will bloom in the spring through summer and once established is relatively trouble-free. Bleeding heart is hardy to zone 3 -9 and will tolerate the cold winters in Northern states.

Care
Bleeding heart can be planted in the spring or fall in moist, rich, well-drained soil and in semi-shade to shade. Plant it in an area where is gets direct sun early in the day and avoid the midday full sun, as that will cause the foliage to dieback prematurely. Maintain even moisture during the growing season. If needed place a layer of 1-2 inches of mulch around the plant away from the base to keep the soil evenly moist. When the hot summer sets in, the foliage will turn yellow, die back and go into summer dormancy.

Divide the plant in the spring every 5 years to reduce overcrowding and produce new plants. You can also divide in the fall after the foliage dies back. A mature plant will produce seeds making more give away plants.
Bleeding heart is relatively disease free except for wilt and stem rot caused by a fungus from growing in water-logged, wet soil.

All parts of this plant are poisonous.

Jasmine polyanthum also referred to as winter jasmine, pink jasmine or Chinese evergreen jasmine is a native of China and a member of the Olive family (Oleaceae). It produces very fragrant, star-shaped white flowers that start as rosy, pink pointed buds. The woody trailer is a vigorous grower that can with support climb up to 20 ft outdoors. It is grown as a ground cover, on a trellis, in a container or in a hanging basket.

Care:
Jasmine prefers well-drained fertile soil. It needs at least 4 hours of bright direct sun and can be grown in full sun outdoors. Water regularly during the growing season and fertilize every 2-3 weeks with a high phosphorous fertilizer (15-30-15) to encourage blooming.
J. polyanthum is a seasonal bloomer that will set bud when exposed to temperatures below 60 F for 4-6 weeks. It blooms primarily in late winter into spring and then sporadically throughout the year.
In colder climates, bring the plant indoors when night temperatures reach 40 F or once the buds are set and place it in a sunny bright, cool location. J. polyanthum requires less water in the winter therefore water when the soil dries out.
Pruning
To control the vigorous growth, Jasmine needs frequent pinching. Cut the plant back after blooming and in the summer to control growth and prevent tangling. Repot into pots 1-2 sizes larger every 2-3 years in the spring after flowering.
Propagate in the summer from tip cuttings or by layering. They can also be started from seed which do not require stratification.
Problems
Spider mites aphids and scale. It can also be susceptible to iron chlorosis (yellowing leaves with dark green veins) which can be corrected by adding chelated iron to the fertilizer when needed.

More info on Confederate Jasmine

Spider plant

Chlorophytum comosum also known as spider plant, airplane plant, ribbon plant originally from Africa and is a member of the large lily family. It was a popular ornamental houseplant in the Victorian era and still is today.

The variegated, strap-shaped leaves which grow in a cluster send out pale, yellow, wiry stalks which can get over two feet long. Initially, the cascading stalks bear small white flowers which later form little plantlets referred to as spiders. There are many varieties of Chlorophytum, some of the most popular cultivars are: C. Vittatum which has a wide white band down the center of the leaf, C. Variegatum has a white stripe down the outer margins and ‘Picturatum‘ has a broad yellow center stripe and ‘Mandaianum‘, a compact form with dark green leaves and irregular dull yellow-green stripes.
Spider plant is primarily used as a foliage hanging basket but recently it is also used as a landscape bedding plant in mild climates. They are frost-tender and grow in zones 9-11.

Care
Spider plants are generally easy to care for. For optimal growth Spider plant grow in bright light with some direct sunlight during the winter. Keep it away from hot midday sun or you will scorch the leaves. It will also thrive in semi shade. It does well at room temperatures 65-75 but does poorly when temperatures are below 45 degrees.
During active growth in the summer, water as often as needed to keep the soil moist and feed it every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer. In winter, keep it on the dry side, water just enough to moisten and then allow the top 1 inch to dry out before watering again. Pale bleached leaves will indicate that the Spider plant is too dry and needs water.  A healthy, mature plant will send out plantlets (when the days get shorter) which can easily be rooted in water or when if placed in moist soil.
Repot when the thick, fleshy rhizomes and roots are pot bound and force the soil above the pot rim level making watering difficult. This is also a good time to divide  Spider plant.  Division will produce a mature plant much faster than from plantlets.

Brown tips or tip burn can occur when the soil is kept too dry or hard/fluorinated water is used. Spider plants are sensitive to fluoride which can be present in low-grade fertilizer and city tap water; to avoid this problem use rain water and a good quality fertilizer.
Common pests that attack Spider plants are: whitefly, spider mites, scale and aphids.