Translator

Summer blooming bulbs

Bulbs are not just for spring. Summer blooming bulbs can be the perfect colorful addition to any container, flower bed, garden or hanging basket. They provide dramatic foliage, attractive blooms and fragrance when combined with annuals and perennials. Some, such as gladiolus and dahlias are also suitable as cut flowers.

Summer-flowering bulbs (which can be bulbs, corms, tubers, rhizomes and roots) are tender plants that die with freezing temperatures and should be planted after the last spring frost and need to be dug up and stored for the winter.
In cooler climates, give them a head start indoors, 4-6 weeks before planting outdoors. They can also be planted directly in the ground after the last spring frost.

Before planting outdoors work up the soil especially if you have heavy clay. Add organic material such as compost to enrich the soil and provide good drainage. Water deeply and often during the growing season. They need at least 1 inch of water a week from rain or watering. Add a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to help conserve moisture and keep the roots cool.

Here are some favorite summer blooming bulbs:

calla lily elephant ear Red canna tuberous begonia

Caladium: The dramatic heart-shaped foliage comes in variegated leaves of green, pink, burgundy, red with white markings. They can get up to 2 ft tall. Plant the potato-like tubers in moist well-drained soil 1 inch deep or start the plants indoors 8 weeks before last frost date. They grow best in shaded areas protected from strong winds. ‘Miss Muffet’ is a shorter cultivar.

Calla lily:

Canna: Grown for its tall, tropical, banana-like foliage that produce 6 ft stalks of brightly colored torch-like flowers. Plant the rhizomes in full sun, well-drained soil 4-6 inches deep.

Dahlias: This tender tuberous root is grown for its showy composite flowers that come in a wide range of colors and sizes. Plant the tuberous roots 6-8 inches below the soil surface with “eyes” pointed up and spread the fleshy roots out. Initially, cover the buds with 3″ of soil and fill in as the shoots grow up. Grow in full sun-part shade and rich, well-drained soil. To encourage large flowers leave the terminal bud and pinch off the side buds. Dig up the tubers after the plant has been blackened by frost, cut the foliage back to 4″, let it dry out for a few hours and store indoors for the winter. Hardy in zone 9-10

Elephant Ear: Colocasia esculenta is a tropical tuber that produces corms. Grows 3-6 ft. tall and produces huge elongated heart-shaped leaves 2-3 ft. long in green and purple. Start the tubers indoors 8 weeks prior to the last frost date. Plant it in rich organic soil covering with 2 inches of soil. Plant outdoors directly in moist soil in full sun (North) to part shade (South). It is grown as an annual except in zone 8b-11. Provide ample moisture during the growing season and feed with a balanced fertilizer.

Gladiolus

Tuberous begonia:
Plant tubers hollow side up 1 inch deep in well-drained organic soil. Plant starter plants at the same depth as grown in the container in filtered shade. When watering, allow plants to dry before watering again. Remove faded flowers for longer bloom time. T.begonia, prized for its colorful camellia-like flowers is an ideal plant for hanging baskets and containers. Dig up before first frost.

Morning Glory vine

If you need to cover a trellis or fence in a short amount of time consider planting an annual vine. Annual flowering vines tend to grow vigorously and continue to bloom until frost kills them. They provide a vertical interest to a garden, add privacy and shade, block the wind, and camouflage any unsightly view.

Morning glory vine (Ipomoea tricolor) is a fast growing tender vine that can easily climb a trellis or fence by twining itself around the support. The funnel-like flowers open in the morning, hence the name morning glory.
The vine can be started from seeds indoors in peat pots 4-5 wks before the last frost date or sown directly into the ground after the soil warms up. Before planting, scrape the black seed coat with sandpaper and soak in water overnight to allow better germination.
Plant in any type of soil but it grows better in poor, infertile soil and blooms best in full sun to light shade.

Once established Morning glory can self-seed and spread becoming a weedy plant, smothering plants and difficult to control in the flowerbed. To avoid this problem be sure to remove the seed pods. Grow it in a container or adjacent to a sidewalk were it can be managed. The large flowered cultivars tend to reseed less.
Blue morning glory
Common Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea) has large flowers in shades of red, white and blue. “Heavenly Blue” cultivar of (Ipomoea tricolor) is a popular blue color.
A compact series with variegated foliage ‘Good Morning’ and ‘Mini Bar Rose’ can be grown in baskets and containers.
Another vine worth mentioning is Moon Vine (Ipomoea alba) which produces heart-shaped-leaves and large fragrant white flowers. Because the flowers open from dusk to dawn, this vine can be enjoyed in the evening garden, by the light of the silvery moon.

Climbing Hydrangea

Climbing hydrangea

Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris known as Climbing Hydrangea is considered the best of vines. This attractive climber grows a cinnamon exfoliating bark with deep glossy green foliage. It produces a waterfall of fragrant clusters of white flowers 6-10 inches wide attached to a 1 inch stalk making it a stunning vine when in bloom.

Plant in rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun or shade. A North or East side of a building is preferred. In hotter climates provide more shade and moisture. Be sure to provide a sturdy structure for it to climb on.
Climbing hydrangea will be slow to establish the first year; the fibrous roots take time to recover from transplanting. During this time maintain even moisture and because of minimal growth feed it very little. Do not prune in the juvenile stage. Once established, it will take off and eventually grow 50-70 ft high and 30-40 ft wide. This vigorous climber will develop tenacious aerial roots that “cement” themselves to bark, brick, wood, vinyl siding which can be a problem when removing the vine. The residue left by the aerial roots is difficult to remove. Avoid planting against a Maple tree as it will compete for moisture.

Blooming
When the vine reaches adult stage it will grow multi branched stems that produce flattened clusters of white flowers that change to light green with age. The vine blooms on old wood and can take 6-10 years to start blooming. It blooms in May thru July.
The vine can be pruned after flowering.

Propagation: Take cuttings in early spring when shoots are green and soft.

Forcing flowering branches

When the long, gray winter starts to wane and you just can’t wait to see some signs of spring, force some spring-flowering branches into bloom to brighten the indoors.

Spring-flowering trees and shrubs such as crabapples, forsythia, lilac, magnolia, pussy willows, redbud, quince, wisteria and fruit trees can be encouraged to bloom indoors.

Blooming forsythia flowering quince
Here’s how.
On a mild winter day, as the buds start to swell (Feb/March) cut on the diagonal 1-2 ft stems. To distinguish which the branches will flower, look for buds that are plump and rounded, pointed narrow buds will produce leaves. Bring the stems indoors to low light and cool temperatures (60-65F). Strip buds from the lower part of the stems, and make a slit or crush the bottom of the stems and place in a tall vase of tepid water. Use cold water if you are taking frozen cuttings (below 32F) to slowly defrost the stems. Mist the branches 2-3x a day or cover with a plastic bag to keep the buds from drying out. Open the bag periodically for air circulation. Be sure to change the water every other day to prevent bacteria or fungal growth. Buds should open in 1 to 6 weeks depending on the plant type and when it is collected. To speed up the blooming process keep stems in slightly warmer temperatures. As soon as the buds start to open, move the branches to a bright cool room away from direct sun and heat; this will extend the blooming time. You can stagger the cuttings for prolonged late winter /spring bloom. Closer to spring cuttings produce better blooms.

Your flowering stems will be a reminder that spring is just around the corner.