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Bay laurel

Bay laurel

Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis),Bay Tree, Sweet Bay has been grown as an ornamental plant since ancient times. It is an aromatic evergreen Mediterranean herb that has dark green, glossy, leaves, produces pale yellow flowers followed by black shiny berries (bacca-laureus). A slow-growing, frost tender perennial, Bay laurel makes an ideal trimmed potted plant that can grow up to 10 feet but most likely 5 feet in a container which should be brought indoors for the winter where it will remain green but dormant.

Bay laurel is grows best in fertile, light, loose soil, full sun to partial shade and moderate temperatures. Because it is susceptible to sunburn, grow it in dappled shade during the hot summer. Because bay laurel is slow and difficult to propagate, it is easier to purchase a potted plant from the garden center.

To root bay laurel take a 4 inch cutting of new growth and strip away all but the top 2 leaves, dip in rooting hormone and plant in a 1/2 sand 1/2 peat mix. Cover with clear plastic and place in a warm shady area. Cuttings can be taken 8 weeks after new spring growth and rooting can take up to 6 weeks. Late summer/early fall cuttings are slower to root and will take several months. It can also be started from seed in early spring.

The leaves of bay laurel can be dried whole or crushed and used in cooking. It can be harvested all year round but the best time to dry the leaves is in August when the leaves are most favorful. It is used as part of the classic bouquet garni which consists of bay leaf, thyme, marjoram, parsley and black peppercorn tied in a muslin bag. The oil is used for treating internal disorders, ear aches, rheumatism, ointments, soaps and perfumes even an insect repellant. The leaves are also used in garlands, funeral and memorial wreaths.

Laurus nobilis is not poisonous, whereas most other laurels are.
Troubleshooting

Bay laurel tends to get scale , small, brown, raised spots clustered on the undersides of leaves and along the stems. Clean the leaves in spring and fall with a cottom ball dipped in rubbing alcohol to control the pest. .
Scale on bay leafsoluble salt damage

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15 comments to Bay laurel

  • Debra MacPhail

    Where can I buy a bay laurel? Is it hardy in zone 8?

    Bay Laurel is hardy in zone 7-10. Might find some on the internet or even your local nursery.

  • Waverly Fitzgerald

    I live in Zone 8 and have a very healthy bay laurel tree. Was told it wouldn’t make it through the winters outside but it has for over ten years now. If it got very cold, I was told I could protect it by putting a blanket over it, but I have never had to resort to that. There’s another bay laurel tree flourishing in my neighborhood in Seattle.

  • tandra mathis

    i have a bay laurel that has grown good. i brought in for winter. now the leaves are looking different color & feels like they are drying out. i check soil and top inch is little dry, but past inch it’s moist. the trunk still looks green & has some new growth. the leaf color change starts @ tip & works down leaf. it kind of makes me think it’s drying from lack of water, but like i said soil is moist. i don’t know alot about the plant, just that i cook w/ bay leaf alot, i love the plant, & not very winter hardy,
    i live in zone 7/8, Bonham, Tx. can you help? i’ve search the web, but only thing i know more about plant is history, & resist insects & dieases.
    thanks tandra

    Hi Tandra
    There are many factors that can cause browning leaf tips: overwatering, underwatering, low humidity, too high, too low temperatures and drastic temperature change. The damaged leaves will eventually fall off and new growth will replace and fill in.

    After more research I found that tan margins on bay leaves can be caused by soluble salt damage to the roots. An accumulation of soil salts (mineral deposits) from fertilizers and or dry soil. This happens when you don’t water properly. Kncok the plant out of the pot and check the roots. You should have creamy white roots, if not then there is root damage due to soluble salt accumulation. To correct this problem, leach out the excess soil salts by watering your plant thoroughly to get all the roots wet. Water until it flows out of the bottom of the pot and then repeat once more. Excess salts will wash out with the draining water.
    To avoid this problem- each time you water be sure it drains from the bottom and re-water when the top 2 inches feel dry. The time span between watering should be longer in winter as plants are not actively growing. See above picture

  • Danielle

    I have a Bay Tree which for the past 7 years and until now it has been a very healthy specimen.
    I noticed approx 2 Months ago that it looked a little sad and the leaves were turning yellow. I had never repotted the tree since I had it & so presumed it needed a larger container.
    After repotting we had a great deal of rain and having changed the clay container for a resin style I noticed no improvement in the colouration or health. It is now June and the tree is looking very poor, the leave are withered and a brownish yellow.
    Any ideas?

    Hi Danielle
    In addition to transplant shock, the extra moisture from the rain may have stressed the roots more. It may be that your bay laurel was too wet and the roots started to rot. You don’t mention wether the pot drains from the bottom. Bay leaf likes well drained, loose soil. Put it in a dry, semi shade area so that it can recup and grow more roots to maintain the leaves. You can also prune it back by 1/3. It’s not too late to send out new growth from the nodes.

  • c.warwick

    what is the best treatment for my bay tree. It has got a black sticky matter on the leaves. I have tried fairy liquid spray. What else can I try.

    Hi
    Sound like your bay tree may have scale-an insect that favors bay. Our article on scale has other suggestions for treatment.

  • Abigail

    We recently moved house and I replanted my Bay tree in the ground after several years of it being in a container. The leaves have now started to go from a healthy green to a yellowish-brown, and have black spots. It is quite a large bush, about 3 ft tall. Did it just object to being moved, or is it something more serious?

    Hi Abigail
    It may be both. When transplanted a plant is in its weakened state and can become suceptible to disease. It may be shedding some of its leaves to accommodate the “damaged” root system. As for the spots on the leaves-it may be a leaf spot of some type perhaps Anthracnose. Hopefully, your bay tree will recover. If new growth also has leaf spot then take a sample to your local extension office to find out what it is.

  • Audrey Davis

    I recently bought a Bay Laurel “tree” it is only about 18″ tall but it has 2 distinct stalks and i would like to create a topiary look, I was wondering is it possible to seperate these and make 2 plants out of it? It looks to be a young plant. It is healthy and now in a 8″ pot so the 2 stalks are not close enough to twist into a single one Can i cut down through the roots between these 2 stalks without harming the plant?
    Thanks for your input…Aud

    HI Audrey
    You can carefully separate both stems and plant each one in individual pots. I would wet the soil and knock out the bay out of its pot and then separate the roots instead of cutting them. Replant and place in a shaded area for a week or so.

  • Glennie Gordon

    Bay leaf miner
    I have acquired a mature bay tree (20 yrs old?). It spent the summer outdoors and is now moved into the house. I notice tiny areas in the leaves that are discoloured and some areas with perforations. Not scale infestation. Looks like a leaf miner. Is this possible? Any ideas and should I treat this somehow or just wait and see? Leaves are not wilted and there is a bit of new growth.

    HI Glennie
    The perforated spots are probably from outdoor insects feeding on the plant. It possible to to get leaf miner. They are flat larvae that live between leaf layers. If you can see some pick off the leaves. Check your plants while they are indoors to make sure no other visitors ( scale, spider mites, mealy bugs) have hitchhicked in the soil.

  • Dear Hortchat, I would really appreciate your advice, I don’t know which Zone I am in, but I live in London, England. U.K.
    I planted a Bay Laurel which was about 8 inches, 20 years ago when I moved to my home, I had only ever thought of Bay trees as being like shrubs, about 10 feet maximum.
    It is now approximately about 25 – 30 feet tall, and as I do not own my home, the Housing Association that I rent from, want to cut it down as it is very close to the next door property i.e. the trunk is nearly touching the wall next door, about 2cm from the wall.
    I have come to terms with the fact that if it has to come down, then so be it, but I really do wonder if it will cause damage by it’s growth, or by it’s root system. I have heard it has a shallow root system, and I do think that if it was going to cause damage by the root system, then it would have done so already and there is no evidence that it has done any damage.
    I am trying to save it, but I understand the reasons the Housing Association have for wanting to cut it down, so I would really appreciate some true and honest advice.
    I am also thinking of taking cuttings to grow in pots if it does have too come down, and would like to know the best way of doing this at this time of year i.e. November 9th 2009.
    Yours sincerely.
    John

    Hi John
    It’s hard to loose and old friend. To bad that it wasn’t in a large container so you could have controlled the growth. Regardless of whether the roots will cause damage, if the tree is too close to the building it has the potential of becoming a liability. Is it possible to dig it up and move it to another location?
    You can take cuttings and start a new plant but be aware that they are difficult and slow to root.
    To root bay laurel take a 4 inch cutting of new growth and strip away all but the top 2 leaves, dip in rooting hormone and plant in a 1/2 sand 1/2 peat mix. Cover with plastic to help keep the soil moist and maintain humidity. Place cuttings in a warm spot with filtered light. Heal cuttings (part of main stem attached) also work . Cuttings can be taken 8 weeks after new spring growth and rooting can take up to 6 weeks. Late summer/early fall cuttings are slower to root and will take several months. Bay laurel can also propagated by layering in spring.
    Good luck with propagating your bay laurel.

  • J Jackson

    Hi,
    I just bought a bay laurel in a pot about a month or so ago. It was beautiful. I put it in a nice sunny window and watered it when the soil started to feel dry. I think the pot is draining well (water comes out of the bottom). The leaves have gotten super dry. The trunk still looks greenish.

    What should I do? There doesn’t seem to be any growth, but it’s midwinter and I’ve read they grow more in the spring and summer. Should I try fertilizing or repotting? Should I trim it? I’m very new to gardening of any kind and I really want to do the best I can for this tree.
    Thanks,
    JJ

    Hi JJ
    Do nothing but water. Most plants go into a semi-dormant stage during the winter. They stop growing or grow very little, thereby do not require or use fertilizer. Being a newly bought plant, I would not repot unless the roots are growing out of the bottom of the pot and then wait till spring to do so. When you water make sure you give the plant a good watering, so that it drains from the bottom of the pot and then wait until the top 1-2 inches are dry before watering again. Best to water well less often than to water often a little at a time. If you can, increase the humidity by placing your Bay on a pebble tray. It may help.

  • J Jackson

    Thank you so much!! I will do this. I watered heavily this morning and the water definitely drains well through the bottom of the pot. I have a humidifier and will put it in the room where the plant is. That room gets a little dryer because it has a little more sun.

    I will wait patiently for spring.
    Thanks again — I loved this tree when we brought it home and am really hopeful it will rejuvenate with this plan.
    JJ

  • jo

    Sooty mold
    please please help!! I live near the beach and my bay tree is outside my house the problem is the leaves are covered in black dusty filth, Its too big to clean each individual leaf so I need a solution to getting it clean again. I will faint if you can give me the answer.many thanks jo x from Broadstairs England

    Hi Jo
    We have to determine what this black dusty filth is. Do you have any sticky clear substance on the leaves? If so, you may have scale and insect that produces honeydew (clear sticky stuff). This in turn attracts a fungus called sooty mold which grows on the honeydew. Sooty mold will not harm the plant but will block the sun from entering the leaves, thus reducing photosynthesis. If not removed it can reduce growth and cause the leaves to drop. A solution of a mild soap and water or just a spray of water should work. Sooty mold will eventually wash off with the rain but you need to control the scale to completely elliminate it.

  • Thanks very much for the advice, I took some cuttings before the cut it down about 10 days ago, I have kept the trunk, I was thinking of trying to carve it into something, but I can’t believe how dense and heavy it is. I may have to leave it in situ in the garden for now.
    I also took some cuttings (I didn’t know about stripping it back or the sand) and just potted them up with rooting hormone in peat based compost. I think there is some life still in them.
    I have them in the kitchen, I just hope they survive the cold snap that is expected this weekend.

  • Liz Thomas

    Pruning after winter
    We have a bay laurel that was a given to us last spring. It was outdoors all summer and seemed to be thriving (it went from 4″-6″ to over a foot tall). When it started getting cold (before freezing, we live in zone 4) we brought all the container plants indoors, and the laurel seemed to be doing just as well. That is until about December when all of the leaves began to dry out. We were watering it once a week (it was watered more when outside), but some of the roots were exposed so we thought that was the problem -and added more potting soil, to no avail. All of the leaves except two looked as though they’d been cured for the pantry. We moved the laurel to another room that gets more light and eventually forgot about it. It hasn’t been watered in more than a month, perhaps longer. Today we noticed that it has two new bright green baby leaves sprouting from one of the main branches, and we are shocked to say the least. Have you ever heard of this happening? Should we trim back the branches that are completely dried out? We would love to save this plant, and any advice is much appreciated!

    Hi Liz
    Bay laurel require less water indoors especially in winter. It may have responded from too much water, not enough humidity. Fortunately, the roots are still good and it is sending out new growth. Which is normal . Wait and see before you trim anything back, there may be more growth coming. Trim it in late spring when you are sure what you are cutting off is completely dead.

  • John Alexander

    Well speaking as a total amateur about this, I would leave it for the time being, no fussing over it.
    My soil is exceptionally bad in my garden the Bay Laurel was one of the most significant things that grew there, most seeds don’t germinate, even wild garden seeds. I have a massive problem with Ground Elder as well, which is a bit like knotweed in effect. So, if the Bay could exist in the harsh soil in zone 3 (or 4 I think) without any help from me, I would just do what feels right, and gradually re-introduce it into the garden when the summer finally arrives, should be soon I hope.
    Best of luck

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