Plant Care & Gardening Tips@ HortChat.com©

Bulbs are not just for spring. Summer blooming bulbs can be the perfect colorful addition to any container, flower bed, garden or hanging basket. They provide dramatic foliage, attractive blooms and fragrance when combined with annuals and perennials. Some, such as gladiolus and dahlias are also suitable as cut flowers.

Summer-flowering bulbs (which can be bulbs, corms, tubers, rhizomes and roots) are tender plants that die with freezing temperatures and should be planted after the last spring frost and need to be dug up and stored for the winter.
In cooler climates, give them a head start indoors, 4-6 weeks before planting outdoors. They can also be planted directly in the ground after the last spring frost.

Before planting outdoors work up the soil especially if you have heavy clay. Add organic material such as compost to enrich the soil and provide good drainage. Water deeply and often during the growing season. They need at least 1 inch of water a week from rain or watering. Add a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to help conserve moisture and keep the roots cool.

Here are some favorite summer blooming bulbs:

Caladium: The dramatic heart-shaped foliage comes in variegated leaves of green, pink, burgundy, red with white markings. They can get up to 2 ft tall. Plant the potato-like tubers in moist well-drained soil 1 inch deep or start the plants indoors 8 weeks before last frost date. They grow best in shaded areas protected from strong winds. ‘Miss Muffet’ is a shorter cultivar.

Calla lily:

Canna: Grown for its tall, tropical, banana-like foliage that produce 6 ft stalks of brightly colored torch-like flowers. Plant the rhizomes in full sun, well-drained soil 4-6 inches deep.

Dahlias: This tender tuberous root is grown for its showy composite flowers that come in a wide range of colors and sizes. Plant the tuberous roots 6-8 inches below the soil surface with “eyes” pointed up and spread the fleshy roots out. Initially, cover the buds with 3″ of soil and fill in as the shoots grow up. Grow in full sun-part shade and rich, well-drained soil. To encourage large flowers leave the terminal bud and pinch off the side buds. Dig up the tubers after the plant has been blackened by frost, cut the foliage back to 4″, let it dry out for a few hours and store indoors for the winter. Hardy in zone 9-10

Elephant Ear: Colocasia esculenta is a tropical tuber that produces corms. Grows 3-6 ft. tall and produces huge elongated heart-shaped leaves 2-3 ft. long in green and purple. Start the tubers indoors 8 weeks prior to the last frost date. Plant it in rich organic soil covering with 2 inches of soil. Plant outdoors directly in moist soil in full sun (North) to part shade (South). It is grown as an annual except in zone 8b-11. Provide ample moisture during the growing season and feed with a balanced fertilizer.

Gladiolus

Tuberous begonia:
Plant tubers hollow side up 1 inch deep in well-drained organic soil. Plant starter plants at the same depth as grown in the container in filtered shade. When watering, allow plants to dry before watering again. Remove faded flowers for longer bloom time. T.begonia, prized for its colorful camellia-like flowers is an ideal plant for hanging baskets and containers. Dig up before first frost.

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I live in NJ and want to grow freesia flowers so bad. I have tried for the last 2 yrs with no luck can anyone help me?

Freesia a native of So. Africa can be somewhat difficult to grow. In zone 9-10 where summers are dry and winter are cool and moist, they can be grown year-round outdoors but go dormant in the summer heat.
In the north (NJ) plant the corms in the spring in well-drained, sandy soil. Apply a 1/2 strength fertilizer every 2 weeks from the time they set bud to the end of flowering. They should bloom in 10-12 wks. (Hopefully before the hot, wet summer) They do best in daytime temperatures of 60-70 degrees and night temps of 50-60. When the sweet-fragrant flowers start to fade reduce watering and let the foliage die back allowing the plant to dry out, dig up the corms and store in a cool dry place.

Freesia can also be started as a potted houseplant from late summer to early winter. It should be kept in a sunroom or greenhouse and watered lightly until new growth appears.

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I have a question about how to winterize Elephant Ears, what needs to be done and how.

Elephant ear Alocasia are a semi-tropical tuberous bulbs that will die with a winter freeze. If you live in a cooler climate here’s what you need to do. When the foliage starts to die back (turn brown) reduce watering and dig up the tuber, air dry out of direct sunlight at 60 degrees for three weeks. For the winter, store the tender bulb in peat moss, vermiculite or sawdust in a dry, ventilated location around 40-50 degrees. Periodically, check the bulb for shrinkage and rot. If they appear shriveled moisten the medium a bit. Replant next spring.
source:urbanext.uiuc.edu

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During the cold gray winter why not grow paperwhite narcissus and add a ray of sunshine to your home? Narcissus papyraceus, a cultivar of Narcissus tazetta, is available during the holiday season and sold as bulb kits or as single bulbs in garden centers. The white clusters of fragrant flowers can brighten up any home in the dead of winter.

Paperwhite narcissus can be easily forced to bloom anytime in winter thru spring because unlike tulips they , do not require a cooling period (vernalization)
Plant the bulbs in well-drained soil mix with the tips 1/2 above the soil line. Water the soil thoroughly and place in a warm location. When the leaves begin to emerge, move the container to a sunny area.
Another popular way to start paperwhites is without a soil medium. Simply place them close together, flat end down in a container with a layer of rocks, marble or gravel in the bottom and just enough water to keep the bottom of the bulbs moist but not wet. They should not sit in water or they will rot. It will take about a week for the roots to grow into the water soaked gravel. No fertilizer is required.
When bulbs are planted in the fall (Thanksgiving) blooming will occur in 4-6 weeks, but if planted later in the season they should bloom within 2-3 weeks.
The flowers should last from 1 - 2 weeks, but for optimal longer lasting blooms move the container to a cool, bright spot out of direct sunlight when the flowers first appear. If grown in temperatures too warm or not enough light, the plant may get tall and top heavy and require some kind of support to keep it from flopping over.

New research by Dr. William B. Miller at Cornell U. has shown that the use of alcohol can shorten the stem length of paperwhite narcissus thus reducing the too tall, flop over problem. Replacing the existing water with a 5% solution (1 part isopropyl alcohol to 10 parts of water) when the shoots are 2 inches tall will keep the foliage and stems at 1/3 to 1/2 shorter than their normal height with no affect on the flowers. Don"t use beer or wine and an alcohol solution no higher than 10%. The reduced growth is believed to be caused by the alcohol making water absorption difficult for the bulb resulting in “water stress".

Forced paperwhites will not re-bloom; the bulb depletes all its energy in flower production. They should be enjoyed at the time and then discarded. In warmer climates, zone 8-10 Paperwhites can be planted outdoors.
source:www.hort.cornell.edu/

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I would like to know how to care for an oriental lily such as a Stargazer lily.

Oriental lilies such as Stargazer (red & white) or Casablance (pure white) are easy to care for once they are established in your flower bed. Plant them in full sun in well-drained fertile but not soggy soil. They will tolerate some light shade as well. In hot climates they prefer morning sun and afternoon shade. Plant in early spring or fall 3 times the depth of the bulb (6-8″). Add a teaspoon of bone meal to the bottom of the hole. Fertilize twice a year, once in spring and again just before blooming. The sweet scented lilies bloom from mid to late summer ( July-Sept).

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Planting Spring blooming bulbs

Fall is the ideal time to plant spring blooming bulbs. They can be planted as late as November-December before the ground freezes. Temperatures above 45 degrees for 8-12 weeks will give them time to develop as good root system.

Here is a quick reference for what you should do:

-When buying bulbs, check for quality. Be sure they are firm without soft spots or white mold.

-Bulbs need a light, well-drained soil or they will rot. For heavy, clay soil, incorporate organic materials such as peat moss or compost to improve drainage.

-They do not require fertilizer but will perform better when fed. Work up the soil and add bulb booster or a 5-10-10 fertilizer for vigorous future growth. The bulb should have no contact with the fertilizer, as it will burn developing roots. You can put bone meal in the bottom of the hole. Once planted, sprinkle bulb fertilizer on top of the backfilled soil in the fall or spring. Mulch planted bulbs after the ground freezes to protect from freezing/thawing cycle and remove in the spring.

-Planting depth: A general rule for tulips and daffodils is 3 times the diameter of the bulb. Cover small bulbs such as scillas, grape hyacinths, snowdrops with 2 inches of soil and large bulbs 6-8 inches. Other bulbs may vary a bit. Check package directions. In warmer climates bulbs can be planted 2 inches shallower.

-Plant pointed tip up, if not sure plant the bulb on its side, it will find its way up.

-If you have rabbits, squirrels or chipmunksdigging up your bulbs, here’s what you can do. When planting cover the bulbs with half the soil, then cover place chicken wire and fill in with the remaining soil (at least 1 inch). The chicken wire will keep the critters from digging up the bulbs. You can also plant less desireable bulbs such as allium, camassia,chionodoxa forbesii ‘Pink Giant’, colchicum ‘Waterlily’, eranthis (winter aconite), fritilaria, galanthus nivalis(snowdrops) muscari (grape hyacinths) and scilla siberica, which aren’t as tasty.

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I would like information on the care of glads for the winter in Northwest Montana. Thank you

In areas with deep frost, gladioli need to be lifted from the soil. Dig up the corms before the first frost. Remove browning foliage and trim it to 1/2 inch of the corm. Shake off the soil and let the remaining stubs dry for 1-2 weeks in a warm, ventilated area. Once dried, remove dried stubs, discard old corms and cormels(optional). Dust the large new corms with a fungicide and store the corms in a paper/plastic mesh bag in a frost free place at 35-50 degrees.
You can also drop a mothball in each bag of gladiolus to deter mice and kill overwintering thrips.

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Hi ! I live in northern Wisconsin, I would like to plant calla lily in clay pots and start them in the house in a south window ( 1 bulb per pot) Then place them outside. I have never done this. Is it possible? How soon should I see growth and how soon should I place them outside? Thank so much !

You can start the rhizomes indoors in full sun. Plant them so that the tips is just below soil level and they sould come up in a wk or so. Water and keep moist but not wet. Move outdoors when night temperatures are no lower than 50 degrees. The initial blooming time can be 8-14 wks depending on variety and growing conditions. White callas take 11-14 wks, cooler temps and need moist soil. Colored hybrid callas can take 8 wks to bloom, warmer temps and less moisture. Be sure to dig them up in the fall, they are not hardy in Wisconsin.

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Hippeastrum spp. better known as Amaryllis is a native plant of South America. This bulb produces a spectacular cluster of flowers accompanied by long strap like leaves.
Even though amaryllis are generally grown during the winter months for the Holiday season, they also do well in the garden if you live in frost-free zones 9 and 10. Here they can be planted outdoors in the fall in full sun and well drained soil. Plant it 1 ” or 1/3 of the bulb above the soil line and mulch during the winter. It should rebloom year after year in late spring or early summer.

Amaryllis forced for indoor winter blooming. Many bulbs kits are available starting in the fall that have all the necessary items needed. It usually includes pot, potting soil mix and of course the bulb along with instructions on planting or you can purchase bulbs online from several sources. Upon inspecting your bulb make sure that it is free of soft spots and blemishes and at least 2 1/2 inches in diameter. The bigger the bulbs size the better the flower or flowers will be.

Plant the bulb in a pot 1-2 inches larger than the diameter of the bulb. Use a well drained soil mix and place 1/3 to 1/2 of the bulb above the soil line-if planted too deep you will get leaves and no flowers. Water with lukewarm water and keep the soil moist but not saturated. Water when the top inch layer of soil is dry; too much water can cause the bulb to rot. Make sure the pot is well drained. Keep the bulb in a warm room with temperatures of above 60 degrees (70-80 is ideal during root development). If it is too cool in the house, try the top of the refrigerator for additional heat source. Once the bulb begins to sprout, place it in a sunny, warm location. When flowers appear (3 -8 weeks after planting) move the plant out of direct sunlight. Be sure to rotate the pot to keep the flower stalk from leaning toward the light. Stake the stalk when necessary. To extend the life of the flower maintain the temperature around 65 degrees, remove the pollen-bearing stamens inside the flower and cut away any faded blooms.

REBLOOMING AMARYLLIS
When your amaryllis is done blooming you must allow the exhausted bulb to rebuild itself. Cut the finished blooms right below the pod. After all flowers are gone cut off the cylindrical stalk down to several inches above the bulb but not the large strap leaves, let them continue to grow on a sunny windowsill and feed monthly with a balanced fertilizer. When the weather warms up, place the plant outside in afternoon shade for the summer. In late summer/early fall bring the pot indoors, gradually reduce watering, allowing it to dry out. Once the foliage is yellow cut it off and place the pot undisturbed in a cool (55-60) room. Allow the amaryllis to go dormant for 8-10 wks. After dormancy, repot the bulb, water and bring it back into a heated bright room.
There are many cultivars available from single large to double large and small single flowers as well as assorted colors. It definitely is is worth the effort.

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Bearded Iris

The swordlike blue green leaves protruding in a colonized cluster display a striking contrast in any flower bed. The tall sturdy flower stem can reach up to twenty eight inches or more, looks like delicate crepe paper and velveteen. Its fragrance hints of lilac and candy can be alluring. This poor man s orchid comes in a kaleidoscope of every color (except fire engine red) which is why irises were named after the Greek goddess Iris, goddess of the rainbow.From a historical point of view, the tall bearded iris goes back twenty or more generations from a gene pool of ten species of Old World and Mediterranean iris. The fleur-de-lis design used on the French royal standard was modeled after the iris. Today s hybrids, which comprise of approximately two hundred species are far more voluptuous and grandiose than their ancestors.

The bearded iris blossom is made up of three upright petals called the standards and three drooping petals called falls. The beard refers to the velvet strip inside the flower. Their rhizomes love to bask in full sun, although I found part shade to be acceptable. The important factor for growing bearded iris is that they need a well- drained soil. A wet environment can lead to rot as well as invite other problems such as iris borer. It is best to plant iris in mid-July through September, although in areas with hot summers and mild winters, September or October may be better. Plant the rhizome tops right at the soil level and point the growing tips outward of the circle or triangle, 12 to 24 inches apart. Keep the beds clean and free of vegetation and mulch for winter protection. Iris should be divided every three or four years. If allowed to become overcrowded, blooming will decline and other disease problems can occur.

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Potted bulbs (tulips, daffodils and hyacinths) add a refreshing touch of Spring indoors during the winter months. Once they are done blooming, you can do one of two things either discard them into your compost pile or save the bulbs for the next season. I choose the later. In order to utilize the bulbs for the next year, you should remove the flower head, keep the soil evenly moist and let the foliage die back. Never remove the leaves until they have completely turned brown and pull away. This will store up energy for the next season’s bloom. The bulbs should be firm, free from soft spots and not have an unpleasant ordor, if they do they should be thrown out. Saved bulbs can either be planted in the spring as soon as the weather permits or kept in the pot and planted in the fall. Plan to plant your bulbs in a well-drained area as too much water can rot your bulbs.

-If you store any bulbs in the refrigerator keep them away from fruit and vegetables. The ethylene gas they emit will disfigure or abort the developing flower.

Did you know tulip petals are edible. The flavor depends on the variety. The petals taste like sweet lettuce or baby peas, some have a cucumber texture and flavor. Before you eat make sure they are pesticide-free or organically grown and do not eat the bulb.
For more info on other edible flowers.

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