Plant Care & Gardening Tips@ HortChat.com©

Welcome to Hortchat.Com, your Horticulture and Gardening Tips website!

This is an interactive community web site in which you can get information on garden and plant tips, ask questions and make comments.

I personally welcome you to the site. My name is Kris and I will be your host. I have a degree in horticulture and have studied and worked with plants for many years. I have also volunteered as a Master Gardener for 16 years.

At Hortchat, we share the trials and tribulations of gardening and growing plants. We may not know everything but we’ll try our best. If you have a suggestion or solution to a gardening / plant problem , we would like to hear about it. We are interested in giving folks the best tips and creating a
Click here to register for our FREE newsletter type in your name and email address.

For current updates go to seasonal tips

Also, we’ve installed a great Tell a Friend feature so you can let them know about our community.

Thanks SO much for visting, check our site often for the latest articles and comments on your favorite posts.

Feel free to email me anytime at: kris@hortchat.com

Warmly,


To post a question or comment -click on comments and go to the bottom of the page where it says leave a comment. Type in your name, e-mail and enter the displayed code; then type in your question or comment in the box. Once you are done click the say it box and you will be posted on HortChat!

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Plant & Gardening Tips article'

---

Bookmark this thread on Plant & Gardening Tips

---

previous post: Impatiens

---

Growing Impatients
From the time they were discovered in East Africa, impatients have become one of the largest selling annual bedding plant. After 40 years of breeding, Impatients have come a long way with new varieties introducing a rainbow of colors (except yellow & blue), single and double flowers and assorted heights. A favorite shade plant, it provides a non-stop floriferous splash of color to any low light area all season long until a killing frost will finally put it to rest.

Impatients are one of the easier plants to grow. Given the right conditions, they will provide mounds of brightly colored flowers 1-2 ft. tall from spring to fall. They are great in borders, containers, window boxes and hanging baskets.

Care: Primarily considered a shade/ semi-shade plant, newer varieties (Viva) also tolerate sun.
Because it is a heat-loving, tropical plant, it should be planted after all danger of frost has passed or when the soil temperature is 60F.
Plant 6″ to 12″ apart in well-drained, rich organic soil in shade/semi-shade. In the North plant them in full sun and in the Southern states in morning sun. In either climate, Impatients need protection from the hot afternoon sun.
Watering: Impatients like moist but not wet soil in order to grow well. Be sure they get 1″ of water every week and water more often in the heat of summer and if in full sun. If allowed to dry out they will wilt dramatically and sulk dropping its leaves and flowers. Wilting also causes stress and drains energy making them more susceptible to insect or disease damage.
Fertilize once, when planting with a slow-release or mix in a well-balanced fertilizer into the soil more often when container grown. Too much fertilizer can cause leggy plants and reduced flowering.

If your Impatients are tall and leggy by mid summer pinch them back to 6 inches and they should regrow as bushier plants.

Propagation: Softwood cutting taken in late winter, early spring. Seeds-sow indoors 10-12 wks before last frost date. Seeds need light and temperatures of 70-75F to germinate cover with plastic to provide humidity. Germination takes 15-20 days.

Troubleshooting:
Root rot- over-watering, poor drainage
INSV Impatiens necrotic spot virus-leaf & stem ring spots that are yellow, white, gray or brown/black.

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Impatiens article'

---

Bookmark this thread on Impatiens

---

previous post: Seasonal Plant Tips
next post: Plant & Gardening Tips

---

THINGS TO DO:

Need to know how to care for a hydrangea , Azalea , or Cyclamen and more? Look in the Houseplant care category.

-By now you should have started seeds-so that they’re ready to go outdoors when the weather permits. For easy tips and suggestions on how and when to get started indoors read my article on starting seeds
-If the soil is workable plant: beets, cabbage, carrots, kohlrabi, onions, peas,radishes, spinach, turnips, seeds directly in the garden. Cover the seeds with light soil mix or vermiculite. Veggies such as cucumbers and squash can also be started in peat pots for easy transplanting. Be sure to “harden off” your plants before planting them outdoors.

-When choosing plants for your flowers beds, look for healthy foliage, with flower buds just starting to show color. Don’t be tempted to buy annuals with showy, blooming flowers since they should be removed at planting time to focus energy to root production. Avoid yellowing or brown lower leaves, roots coming out of the bottom of the container.

-Don’t plant too early. The garden centers are starting to load up with plants but if you live in cooler climates like the midwest-wait to plant. Tender flowers will sit and do nothing if the soil and air temperature are too cold and if a frost hits then all will be lost. Soil temperatures should be in the 50’s for safe planting. Warm weather plants such as impatients, tomatoes and peppers should be planted when all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperature are above 60F. If you can’t plant right away, water and place the container in the suggested light (sun or shade)during the day when temperatures are warm. Bring indoors/garage at night.

Pansies and violas can be planted at this time. They prefer cooler weather and tolerate a light frost .

Outdoors:

-Summer and fall blooming perennials should be divided in Spring.
-When bulb foliage begins to show, sprinkle a bulb booster or 5-10-5 fertilizer on the soil and water in. Wash off any fertilizer that lands on the foliage.

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Seasonal Plant Tips article'

---

Bookmark this thread on Seasonal Plant Tips

---

previous post: Woodland wildflowers
next post: Impatiens

---

Midwest native woodland wildflowers:

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Woodland wildflowers article'

---

Bookmark this thread on Woodland wildflowers

---

previous post: How to choose the best annuals
next post: Seasonal Plant Tips

---

The secret to picking out annuals for bigger and better blooms.

The garden centers are loaded with rainbow colors of annual flowers. Growers know that color will sell flowers so they feed their annuals with higher doses of phosphorus and potassium to get early bloom on immature plants. Here are a few tips to help you become a smart shopper.

When picking plants for your flowers beds, don’t be tempted to buy annuals with showy, blooms, pay closer attention to the foliage. The plant should be healthy and vigorous with thick branching stems, dark green foliage (in most cases) and flower buds just starting to show a bit of color. Avoid plants that are either too compact or too spindly. Stay away from yellowing or browning leaves and foliage with spots or brown edges that can be a sign of stress, disease or pests.

In addition, check the root system which is just as important. I picked out a flat of begonias at a reputable nursery that had great looking foliage but when it was time to plant, I discovered that the roots were over watered and dying. Needless to say, the plants performed poorly. To check the roots, pop the plant out of its cell pack and look at the roots; do they fill up the container with a solid white mass or growing out of the bottom of the pot? If so, the plant has been heavily rooted and the roots will need to be trimmed. Is the plant difficult to pop out from the container? Does the soil spill out with the roots? If so, they are under developed and need more time to grow. The best proportion is an even mix of cream colored roots and soil.

Don’t be tempted to plant too early. Tender flowers will sit and do nothing if the soil and air temperature are too cold and if a frost hits then all will be lost. Soil temperatures should be in the 50’s for safe planting. Warm weather plants such as impatients, tomatoes and peppers should be planted when all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperature are above 60F. If you can’t plant right away; water and place the container in the suggested light (sun or shade) during the day when temperatures are warm. Bring indoors/garage at night

As difficult as this may sound, remove the flowers at planting time, so the plants can focus their energy on more leaf and root production. Also, pinch back any spindly growth to produce bushier plants (except for asters, arctotis and gazania). You will be rewarded with healthier plants and more flowers all season long.

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'How to choose the best annuals article'

---

Bookmark this thread on How to choose the best annuals

---

previous post: Container gardening
next post: Woodland wildflowers

---

Container gardening offers a wide range of gardening possibilities especially for those who have limited space. Any container can serve as a planter as long as it can hold soil and have drainage; but container gardening is not just filling a container with soil and adding random plants; a few planting tricks can result in a vibrant container garden that will delight you all season long.

Here are some tips & techniques to try when planting your container:

- Choose plants that are compatible with size, color, light and moisture requirements.

- Start with a container that is large enough to maintain the plant or combination of plants through the whole growing season. If the container is too small it will dry out much faster during the hot days of summer. The bigger the better-but also keep in mind that you may have to move it. Clay pots are heavier, porous and dry out faster than metal, plastic or wooden pots. I like the faux clay pots. They seem to fit all requirements.

- Be sure your container has adequate drainage. Place a fabric filter or mesh over the drain hole and fill bottom of container with gravel, broken clay pots and peanuts to fill the space. Leave the top 8-10 inches to fill with soil.

- Use the good well drained soil, or mix your own by combining 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite or perlite and 1/3 organic material Fill the container 2 inches below the rim of the pot to allow room for planting and avoid overflow when watering.

- To conserve moisture and reduce amount of watering add a water retaining polymer (Hydro-gel) to the soil. Soak the polymer before adding it to the soil and follow label directions as to how much to use.

- Mix in a slow release fertilizer (Osmocote) that will feed your plants up to 4 months, enough to carry you through the growing season.

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Container gardening article'

---

Bookmark this thread on Container gardening

---

previous post: Summer blooming bulbs
next post: How to choose the best annuals

---

Bulbs are not just for spring. Summer blooming bulbs can be the perfect colorful addition to any container, flower bed, garden or hanging basket. They provide dramatic foliage, attractive blooms and fragrance when combined with annuals and perennials. Some, such as gladiolus and dahlias are also suitable as cut flowers.

Summer-flowering bulbs (which can be bulbs, corms, tubers, rhizomes and roots) are tender plants that die with freezing temperatures and should be planted after the last spring frost and need to be dug up and stored for the winter.
In cooler climates, give them a head start indoors, 4-6 weeks before planting outdoors. They can also be planted directly in the ground after the last spring frost.

Before planting outdoors work up the soil especially if you have heavy clay. Add organic material such as compost to enrich the soil and provide good drainage. Water deeply and often during the growing season. They need at least 1 inch of water a week from rain or watering. Add a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to help conserve moisture and keep the roots cool.

Here are some favorite summer blooming bulbs:

Caladium: The dramatic heart-shaped foliage comes in variegated leaves of green, pink, burgundy, red with white markings. They can get up to 2 ft tall. Plant the potato-like tubers in moist well-drained soil 1 inch deep or start the plants indoors 8 weeks before last frost date. They grow best in shaded areas protected from strong winds. ‘Miss Muffet’ is a shorter cultivar.

Calla lily:

Canna: Grown for its tall, tropical, banana-like foliage that produce 6 ft stalks of brightly colored torch-like flowers. Plant the rhizomes in full sun, well-drained soil 4-6 inches deep.

Dahlias: This tender tuberous root is grown for its showy composite flowers that come in a wide range of colors and sizes. Plant the tuberous roots 6-8 inches below the soil surface with “eyes” pointed up and spread the fleshy roots out. Initially, cover the buds with 3″ of soil and fill in as the shoots grow up. Grow in full sun-part shade and rich, well-drained soil. To encourage large flowers leave the terminal bud and pinch off the side buds. Dig up the tubers after the plant has been blackened by frost, cut the foliage back to 4″, let it dry out for a few hours and store indoors for the winter. Hardy in zone 9-10

Elephant Ear: Colocasia esculenta is a tropical tuber that produces corms. Grows 3-6 ft. tall and produces huge elongated heart-shaped leaves 2-3 ft. long in green and purple. Start the tubers indoors 8 weeks prior to the last frost date. Plant it in rich organic soil covering with 2 inches of soil. Plant outdoors directly in moist soil in full sun (North) to part shade (South). It is grown as an annual except in zone 8b-11. Provide ample moisture during the growing season and feed with a balanced fertilizer.

Gladiolus

Tuberous begonia:
Plant tubers hollow side up 1 inch deep in well-drained organic soil. Plant starter plants at the same depth as grown in the container in filtered shade. When watering, allow plants to dry before watering again. Remove faded flowers for longer bloom time. T.begonia, prized for its colorful camellia-like flowers is an ideal plant for hanging baskets and containers. Dig up before first frost.

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Summer blooming bulbs article'

---

Bookmark this thread on Summer blooming bulbs

---

previous post: Morning Glory vine
next post: Container gardening

---

Rieger begonia (Begonia x hiemalis), Elator hybrids also known as Winter Begonia comes from a huge family of begoniaceae. It is a hybrid cross between tuberous and wax (fibrous) begonia that was developed by Otto Rieger (not Reiger), a German plant breeder. Some consider it a toss plant but with proper care and a little know-how it can bloom up to 6 months indoors and after a rest period be coaxed to rebloom.

Rieger begonia produces a reddish, fleshy stem with glossy, asymmetrical serrated leaves. At the end of each stem, it develops a cluster of 3 double rose shaped flowers; one large showy male and two smaller females. The male flowers will drop off within 2-3 days after opening.

Care:
R. begonia does not grow in hot humid regions. It prefers cool temperatures of 70F during the day and 60-65F @ night with bright indirect sun (east window); that’s why it’s a popular winter flowering plant. Grow it in well-drained peat/perlite soil mix or African violet soil and feed with ½ strength houseplant fertilizer every 2 weeks when actively growing. When watering, let it to dry slightly between watering but not too dry or too wet
Be sure to remove the spent flowers to stimulate new bloom.

Re-bloomingOnce the plant slows down and stops blooming cut it back to several inches above the soil line and place in a cool, medium light area, keeping on the dry side or place it in the shade outdoors during the summer. When you see new growth, repot the plant to a larger container, move it to bright indirect light and start watering and fertilizing. Rieger begonia responds to short days and cool night temperatures (fall/winter) which stimulates it to bloom again.

Trouble shooting
-Direct sun will scorch the leaves
-Too much light will turn the foliage a copper color, then brown.
-Avoid getting water on the leaves as it can cause powdery mildew problems.
-Too much fertilizer will turn the foliage blue green and curled at the ends.
-Overwatering with low temps causes leaves to wilt and turn brown.
-Keep away from heating vents or cold drafts.

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Grow Rieger Begonia article'

---

Bookmark this thread on Grow Rieger Begonia

---

previous post: Grow edible ginger
next post: Venus flytrap care

---

How can you propagate wisteria. I live in N. Louisiana?

There are several ways to propagate wisteria.
1. seeds 2. cuttings 3. grafts.

You can take soft stem cuttings in later summer; dip it rootone and plant in sand, perlite, vermiculite or a mixture of all three. Keep moist and when you see signs of new growth you’ll know there are some roots. Not all cultivars will root or be true to the cultivar. Wisteria will bloom 2-3 yrs from stem cuttings-better than 10 yrs. when started from seed.

Another method is by digging out suckers and or roots. The roots will produce a true cultivar. You can also try layering - which is done by covering part of a one year old stem that has been bruised with soil and leaving the shoot tip above the soil line. This will take as long as a year and produce the same plant. When the plant develops new roots you can sever the stem from the main plant and transplant it . Well now you have some choices to make. Have fun

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Propagate wisteria article'

---

Bookmark this thread on Propagate wisteria

---

previous post: Grow Hops
next post: Winterize elephant ear

---

‘Endless Summer ‘ Hydrangea is part of a small group of Hydrangea macrophylla that is known to be dependable for winter hardiness and repeat blooming. It was discovered in St. Paul, Minnesotta, by Vern Black an employee of Bailey Nursery. After several years of trial testing, it was confirmed that wintered plants that died back to the ground still set buds and produced flowers the same season; proving that it bloomed on new as well as old wood. This is an unusual characteristic for H. macrophylla because it blooms only on old wood. This new plant was referred to as remontant or everblooming hydrangea because it had the ability to form flower buds in the tips of new growth, allowing repeat flowering throughout the growing season.

‘Endless Summer’ Bailmer grows to 3-5 feet high and wide and the color depends on the soil ph .
Since its introduction, similar cultivars of remontant Hydrangeas were discovered such as: ‘Penny Mac’, ‘All Summer Beauty’, ‘Blushing Bride’. ‘Dooley’, ‘David Ramsey’, ‘Decatur Blue’, ‘Mini Penny’, and ‘Oak Hill’. New and improved cultivars are constantly being tested and evaluated. Look for more varieties in the future.

Planting hydrangea

-Choose a location with morning sun and afternoon shade.
-Plant in moist, well-drained soil. Amend poor soils with organic material.
-Dig a hole 2x the size of the rootball, mix in compost/peat moss. Before planting check the roots are they white and healthy? Gently loosen the roots before placing in the ground and plant at the same soil level as grown in the container. Backfill the soil and be sure not to compact the soil. Water the plant which will fill in any loose soil and add 2 inches of mulch over the plants.
-Don’t plant under a tree as there will be competition for light and moisture.

Hydrangea care info

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Endless Summer Hydrangea article'

---

Bookmark this thread on Endless Summer Hydrangea

---

previous post: Rosemary care
next post: Florist Hydrangea

---