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Ginger (Zingiber officinale) Common ginger, Cooking ginger is an exotic herb native to forest of tropical Asia. It is mainly grown for its aromatic, edible root that is used in cooking as well as medicinal purposes.

Edible ginger starts easily indoors and can be moved outdoors in warmer temperatures. This rhizome can be obtained at the grocery store in the produce section. Choose a firm, plump rhizome with ‘eyes’ (growing point). You can break up or cut larger pieces to 2″ size but be sure each piece has at least two or more growing points. Let the cut surface dry for a few days before planting. Place the rhizome horizontally 1″ deep just under the soil surface and plant in a large (12″) pot to allow extra surface space for the rhizomes to spread. Keep the soil warm and moist but not soggy. Cover the container with a plastic bag to maintain a humid greenhouse environment. Once the shoots emerge, remove the bag and move the pot to indirect light.

When night temperatures are above 55F take the plant outdoors. You can plant or bury the container in your flower bed. Ginger likes hot and humid growing conditions. Be sure it gets 2-4 hours of full sun (light shade), enough water and fertilize every 2 weeks. Since it takes at least 5 months to produce rhizomes an early start indoors will increase ginger root production. Plant it in April and it should be ready to go outdoors in May. The reedlike foliage can grow to 2-4 ft tall. In warmer climates, (zone 8-12) ginger can be planted directly into the soil. Shoots should emerge in May and can be harvested in Oct. /Nov. when the foliage turns yellow and dies back.
Don’t expect any flowers the first year, ginger needs to be 2-3 years old to bloom. Though rarely seen, it will produce an inconspicuous green spike with small yellow green fragrant flowers and purple edges when in bloom.

In cooler climates, ginger needs to be brought indoors before a freeze. Once the foliage dies, you can harvest some of it and save the rest for next year. Store the rhizomes in its container keeping it on the dry side or dig up the roots and store in a box filled with peat moss. Be sure the roots don’t dry out. An easier way is to buy fresh rhizomes in the spring.
Be aware that there are other types of tropical ginger some are edible and some are not.

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Growing hops

In recent years the popularity of microbreweries and home brewing has been on the increase. Unfortunately, due to less production and higher demand, the rising shortage of hops has increased the cost of beer production to home brewers and microbreweries. Hops, the bittering agent that gives beer its distinctive flavor is a key ingredient. There are many varieties of hops, each imparts a different aroma and flavor to the beer.

Hops (Humulus Lupulus) is a hardy perennial that is grown from the rhizome of a female hop plant. It can grow vines up to 25 ft in one season which will die back in the winter. It requires 120 frost-free days to produce ripe flowers and given the right conditions will yield ½-2 pounds of dried flowers per vine.

Plant the rhizome in full sun and deep in well-drained soil, with a ph of 6-7.5. The top of the rhizome should be 1 inch below the soil surface. If you plant more than one variety, plant them at least 5 ft. apart to avoid mixing of vines, otherwise plant them 3ft apart. When the vines are 1ft tall be sure to provide a trellis or support ( twine) to climb on and choose the best 2-3 vines to wind around the support. Leave a few for backup (in case of frost) and prune away the rest . Once they get started they can grow as much as 12 inches per day. Around the end of June the plant will grow sidearms (flowering stage) which produce the hop cones.

The first year of growth is critical in establishing the root system, so be sure to keep the plants well watered (not soaked) weed free and mulched. A side dressing of a balanced fertilizer or compost tea during the growing season will help produce optimal growth. You may not get many hops the first year but production should increase in subsequent years.
Hop rhizomes can be purchased at Homebrew supply stores as well as on the internet.
Hops also make an attractive vine.

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Rosemary officinalis is a member of the mint family and a native of the Mediterranean whose history trails back to 2500 years. The needle like, gray green foliage with antifungal and antibacterial properties has a pungent, resinous smell that was considered a cure for many ailments. A brush against the plant releases fragrant, aromatic oils that invigorate the senses.
A tender perennial shrub, rosemary will not tolerate temperatures lower than 10F. It can winter over on the West coast growing up to 6ft. tall but in Northern climates it can only be grown in a container.

Care
Outdoors: Rosemary tolerates poor soil with good drainage and full sun to light shade.
Indoors: Place it in bright sunny window and keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. Allow the water to drain freely and let it dry between watering. Brown needles indicate over-watering. In the spring around May 1 repot in fresh soil and set it outside. Slowly acclimate it to the outdoors by keeping it in protected semi shade for 1-2 weeks and then set it on a sunny porch or sink the pot into the ground for the summer. To maintain a compact shape, trim up to 1/2 of any leggy winter growth in the spring. Rosemary needs very little fertilizer during the growing season.

Propagation
Seed germination is very slow; therefore propagation from cuttings in the spring is the preferred method. :
To make new plants, take 4-6 cuttings, strip off lower leaves, dip in rooting hormone and insert in soilless mix. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag (away from direct sun) to increase humidity. Rooting should take 4-6 weeks. Water rooting is another quick way to propagate rosemary. I have found that cuttings placed in colored blue or green glass root faster than clear glass. Rooting started after 2 weeks.

Wintering Rosemary
The dry indoor air is difficult for Rosemary to endure therefore allow the plant to remain outdoors for as long as possible and bring it inside around end of October. Keep it in a cool (45 degrees is ideal) well ventilated room with a south or west sunny location. Water less in the winter keeping it on the dry side. Try not to get the leaves wet and provide good air circulation to avoid powdery mildew. With a little luck it should make it through the winter, if not you can always purchase a new one in the spring.

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GROWING HERBS

Herbs are grown for culinary, medicinal as well as aromatic purposes. For those who enjoy the culinary arts, growing your own herbs is a must in order to maintain a steady fresh supply.
Some of the reasons for growing your own herbs are: convenience, money saver-cheaper than store bought and fresh flavor.
Growing herbs is relatively easy. The hardest part is deciding which ones to grow! Surprisingly, many herbs grow with minimal care and in infertile soil. Annuals and biennials such as basil, cilantro, chamomile, chervil, dill, fennel, mustard and parsley can be started from seed. They can either be sown directly into the garden or grown indoors in pots and then transplanted. Seed planting can also be done with easy perennials like chives, feverfew, lemon balm, mint. With more difficult perennials such as lavender, marjoram, rosemary, oregano, sage, tarragon and thyme; it is easier and faster to buy already growing plants.
Be sure to plant each herb in its optimal growing environment to get the best results.
Some of the things to keep in mind when planting herbs:
1. Plant in full sun with minimum of 4-6 hrs. a few will grow in partial shade
2. Well-drained soil (very important) if you have poor drainage add organic material to amend the soil or try a raised bed. They will thrive in infertile soil but not soggy soil.
3. Fertilize less-herbs like low-medium fertility. Heavy applications can decrease the flavor, cut down on the concentration of essential oils. Use compost, fish emulsion or 5-10-10 fertilizer in the early spring when planting and/or when new growth starts.

Herbs can be grown in a container, flower bed or any spot in the garden. Grow your favorite culinary herbs in a container and keep it close to the kitchen door for easy harvesting. When winter arives bring a pot of herbs indoors, place in a sunny area and enjoy.

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Basil (Ocimum spp.) has its roots in India and Africa but is mostly known and appreciated all over the world. The word basil comes from Greek basileus meaning King and it certainly can be considered royalty among herbs.

Basil has broad, dark green aromatic leaves that can be grown from seed. It should be started indoors in early spring (May) or sown directly in the garden after danger of frost has passed. Basil needs warm soil and temperature to germinate. If started too early you will get slow, weak growth so do no rush it. Transplants can be planted when temperatures are above 50 degrees at night. This heat loving annual, thrives in warm weather, requires full sun and a rich well drained soil.
Plant 12 inches apart to allow room for growth as they grow as wide as they get tall (12-24 inch). To maintain the size and shape of this vigorous growing plant, pinch and cut any flower heads.

There are more than 150 species of basil grown around the world. Even the most popular have a wide range of leaf shapes and flavors from anise, camphor, cinnamon to lemon. Sweet Italian Basil has an anise flavor which brings out the essence of summer tomatoes. ‘Genovese’ as well as bush basil (O. basilicum minimum) are great for pesto and Thai (Siam Queen) impart a spicy flavor with a hint of licorice to Thai and Indian cuisine. The dwarf to medium sized basils; such as Little-leaf bush or Spicy globe are ideal for small pots and window boxes. We cannot forget Dark Opal Basil which not only stands up as a culinary herb but also works well as a decorative accent plant. Combine basils with parsley, sage, rosemary and chives along with any one of your favorite herbs in a large container, place it close to the kitchen door and you will have a convenient culinary herb garden at your disposal.

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Bay laurel

Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis),Bay Tree, Sweet Bay has been grown as an ornamental plant since ancient times. It is an aromatic evergreen tree/shrub that has dark green, glossy, leaves, produces pale yellow flowers followed by black shiny berries (bacca-laureus). A slow-growing, frost tender perennial, Bay laurel makes an ideal trimmed potted plant that can grow up to 10 feet but most likely 5 feet in a container which should be brought indoors for the winter.

Bay laurel is one of the Mediterranean herbs which grow best in fertile, well-drained soil, full sun to partial shade and moderate temperatures. Because it is susceptible to sunburn, grow it in dappled shade during the hot summer. It is easier to purchase a potted plant from the garden center because bay laurel is slow to propagate. If you were inclined to try; take a 4 inch cutting of new growth and strip away all but the top 2 leaves, dip in rooting hormone and plant in a ½ sand ½ peat mix. Cover with clear plastic and place in a warm shady area. Rooting should take 2 weeks or more. Summer cuttings can take several months to root.

The leaves of bay laurel can be dried whole or crushed and used in cooking. It is used as part of the classic bouquet garni which consists of bay leaf, thyme, marjoram, parsley and black peppercorn tied in a muslin bag. The oil is used for treating internal disorders, ear aches, rheumatism, ointments, soaps and perfumes even an insect repellant. The leaves have been used in garlands, funeral and memorial wreaths

Laurus nobilis is not poisonous, whereas most other laurels are.

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Potter Potion Picks

In the Harry Potter series of books and movies, J.K. Rowling makes many references to plants with magical powers used in a potion or mixed in a witch’s brew. Even though some are factitious there are some that are real and very powerful. They carry with them interesting folklore stories that have prevailed throughout the ages.

Aconite (Aconitum lycotonum) known as Monkshood and wolfbane.

All parts are poisonous with the tuber being the most potent. A cousin of the garden monkshoods (A. nepellus), this tall perennial with helmet-shaped flowers was believed to repel werewolves and was also used as an arrow-tip poison. It can paralyze the nerve centers and be used as a sedative and pain killer. Today, it is used externally for nerve related pains such as rheumatism, sciatica and neuralgia.

Belladonna (Atropa belladonna) known as deadly nightshade.

This highly toxic perennial produces black shiny berries in the fall. All parts are poisonous. The roots and leaves produce a narcotic and sedative effect.
One of the effects of nightshade extract is that it dilates the pupils. In Medieval times, Italian women used nightshade extract thinking that it made them look seductive until they died from nightshade poisoning. It was also believed that this was the devil’s plant (Devil’s cherry) to help witches fly.
Today, it is used as an antispasmodic and in surgical eye examinations.

Bittersweet (Solanum dulcamara)

This toxic woody vine has twigs that taste bitter, then sweet and produces red berries that are poisonous. It was believed to ward off evil and cure dizziness when worn. Today, it is used in pharmaceuticals.

Mandrake (Mandragora officinarum)

A highly poisonous plant has a parsniplike root which bears bell shaped flowers cupped in rosette clumped leaves. Referred to as Satan’s apple, there are many tales about this plant. The intriguing part of the plant is the fleshy branching taproot that at times was to resemble a human form. It was believed that when pulled out from the ground the root would give off a shriek that would drive a human to madness or death. To prevent this, people trained their dogs to dig up the plant. The dogs died not from the shriek but from the poison on the plant. It was also to have special powers as an aphrodisiac. Mandrake was a witches hexing herb and gave the illusion that they could fly because of its hallucinogenic properties.
It is one of the oldest narcotic roots, used as a sedative and treatment for asthma and coughs

Wormwood (Absinthe absinthium)

A pungent, bitter perennial used to flavor vermouth and the addictive drink absinthe. (now banned in most countries). A tonic of the leaves and flowers was used for the digestive system, gallbladder, reducing inflammation and clearing impurities. It was also used to treat fever, insect repellent and as a worming medicine effective against roundworm and threadworm
It was believed that snakes cannot enter where wormwood grows.

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