Plant Care & Gardening Tips@ HortChat.com©

Rieger begonia (Begonia x hiemalis), Elator hybrids also known as Winter Begonia comes from a huge family of begoniaceae. It is a hybrid cross between tuberous and wax (fibrous) begonia that was developed by Otto Rieger (not Reiger), a German plant breeder. Some consider it a toss plant but with proper care and a little know-how it can bloom up to 6 months indoors and after a rest period be coaxed to rebloom.

Rieger begonia produces a reddish, fleshy stem with glossy, asymmetrical serrated leaves. At the end of each stem, it develops a cluster of 3 double rose shaped flowers; one large showy male and two smaller females. The male flowers will drop off within 2-3 days after opening.

Care:
R. begonia does not grow in hot humid regions. It prefers cool temperatures of 70F during the day and 60-65F @ night with bright indirect sun (east window); that’s why it’s a popular winter flowering plant. Grow it in well-drained peat/perlite soil mix or African violet soil and feed with ½ strength houseplant fertilizer every 2 weeks when actively growing. When watering, let it to dry slightly between watering but not too dry or too wet
Be sure to remove the spent flowers to stimulate new bloom.

Re-bloomingOnce the plant slows down and stops blooming cut it back to several inches above the soil line and place in a cool, medium light area, keeping on the dry side or place it in the shade outdoors during the summer. When you see new growth, repot the plant to a larger container, move it to bright indirect light and start watering and fertilizing. Rieger begonia responds to short days and cool night temperatures (fall/winter) which stimulates it to bloom again.

Trouble shooting
-Direct sun will scorch the leaves
-Too much light will turn the foliage a copper color, then brown.
-Avoid getting water on the leaves as it can cause powdery mildew problems.
-Too much fertilizer will turn the foliage blue green and curled at the ends.
-Overwatering with low temps causes leaves to wilt and turn brown.
-Keep away from heating vents or cold drafts.

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Kalanchoe blossfeldiana belongs to Crassulaceae family. It is an attractive plant with fleshy, scalloped leaves that bear clusters of star-like flowers and comes in a myriad of vibrant colors. Given the right growing conditions this low-maintenance plant will bloom up to 10 weeks. It blooms naturally in late winter to late spring but growers can make it available any time of year as long as it gets 6 weeks of 14 hours of darkness. This succulent plant can tolerate dry soil and low humidity which makes them an ideal indoor plant during the winter.

Care:
Kalanchoe needs bright light, full sun (south window) in the winter and some shade during the heat of summer (east/west window). Grow it in well-drained soil consisting of peat, sand or perlite and sterile soil. Cooler temperatures and brighter light will prolong blooming. Remove spent flowers for a neater appearance.
Water thoroughly, then allow the soil to dry. They are drought tolerant so allow the top half to dry out before watering again. Don’t over water, soggy soil will cause stem and root rot.
Do not feed it when in bloom. Start feeding after blooming if you want to rebloom or grow as a foliage plant.

Problems: Scale, mealy bugs, mites

Reblooming : Some feel it is hardly worth the effort. It is difficult but can be done. To rebloom, remove all dead flower stalks and when new growth appears start feeding with a 15-30-15 fertilizer at 1/2 strength in March-October. Kalanchoe, like Poinsettias are short-day flowering plants which require 6 weeks of 14 hr nights and bright light during the day with temperatures of 60F at night and 70F during the day. Blooming should start within 4 months after treatment.
You can also propagate your plant from tip cutting taken in spring. Root them in a mix of peat moss and coarse sand in bright filtered light.

An exciting new variety is the Calandiva, a double-flower that looks like a cluster miniature roses and comes in a variety of colors. It has the same growing requirements as the Kalanchoe.

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I have a beautiful potted hydrangea that I received from the florist but don’t know how to care for it. Can I plant it outdoors? Any suggestions??

Potted florist Hydrangea are grown in a controlled environment in the greenhouse to produce big, showy flowers. This forcing process produces weakened plants that may not survive outdoors. Because they are weak and not as hardy as the nursery cultivars, planting outdoors is not recommended . They can be grown in a container and kept outdoors in dappled shade during the summer months but need to be brought indoors in a frost-free place for the winter.
One of the biggest problem maintaining florist hydrangea is watering. Don’t allow the soil to dried out. They like evenly moist soil but cannot tolerate wet feet. When the flowers droop and wilt, there is a tendency to water because the plant looks dry and lack of water may be the reason why it is drooping; but if the soil is still wet and flowers are drooping then it has had too much water and has root damage. When watering a hydrangea , remove the decorative cover, fill a saucer with water and let the plant stand in it for up to 45 min. then drain. Watering from the top is not recommended. Keep the plant in bright indirect light and temperatures of 50-60 degrees at night to prolong blooming . Florist hydrangeas are considered short-term gift plants to be enjoyed and discarded.

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Instead of a Christmas tree some may opt for a Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla)which is usually available in stores before Christmas. It may be sold plain or decorated to serve as an alternate mini Christmas tree for those with little space. Once the holiday is over, the Norfolk pine can double as a patio or long-lasting houseplant.

Norfolk pine, belongs to the ancient genus of evergreen conifers, Araucaria, which includes the newly discovered extinct Wollemi pine. It is hardy in zone 10-11. In the wild this semi-tropical tree can get up to 200 ft. tall and grows a massive straight tree trunk with symmetrical lateral branches that produce an impressive sight in the landscape; but when grown indoors as a potted houseplant the diminutive version usually grows up to 8 ft. tall.

Care

Indoors, provide a cool, bright filtered light, humid environment with temperatures of 60-72F during the day and slightly cooler at night. They prefer a few hours of direct sun but can adapt to bright indirect light. Be sure to rotate the plant to maintain a symmetric shape and keep the plant from leaning over to one side. They also need 50% humidity which can be difficult to provide during the dry heating season in winter. Some ways to increase humidity is to run a humidifier or if possible use a pebble tray filled with water. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry and let the water drain from the bottom. Do not let it stand in water or saturate the soil, over watering will cause bright yellow needles that eventually fall off. Conversely, keeping the plant too dry with low humidity will cause brown tips. Keep it away from heating vents or cold drafts which can dry out the needles.
Feed your plant when it is actively growing (not winter) with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Feed new, younger plants every 4-6 months and older plants every 3-4 months.
Repot every 3-4 years.
Prune only brown dead lower branches. Do not cut off the growing tips. If the growing top is damaged, it will not be replaced and you will get a misshapen tree.
Pests: Common pests that attack Norfolk pines are spider mites, scale and mealybugs.

Did you know: In nature, Norfolk pine cones take 18 months to mature, then breaks down and the scales produce edible seeds that Green parrots favor.

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Spider plant

Chlorophytum comosum also known as spider plant, airplane plant, ribbon plant originally from Africa and is a member of the large lily family. It was a popular ornamental houseplant in the Victorian era and still is today.

The variegated, strap-shaped leaves which grow in a cluster send out pale, yellow, wiry stalks which can get over two feet long. Initially, the cascading stalks bear small white flowers which later form little plantlets referred to as spiders. There are many varieties of Chlorophytum, some of the most popular cultivars are: C. Vittatum which has a wide white band down the center of the leaf, C. Variegatum has a white stripe down the outer margins and ‘Picturatum‘ has a broad yellow center stripe and ‘Mandaianum‘, a compact form with dark green leaves and irregular dull yellow-green stripes.
Spider plant is primarily used as a foliage hanging basket but recently it is also used as a landscape bedding plant in mild climates. They are frost-tender and grow in zones 9-11.

Care
Spider plants are generally easy to care for. For optimal growth Spider plant grow in bright light with some direct sunlight during the winter. Keep it away from hot midday sun or you will scorch the leaves. It will also thrive in semi shade. It does well at room temperatures 65-75 but does poorly when temperatures are below 45 degrees.
During active growth in the summer, water as often as needed to keep the soil moist and feed it every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer. In winter, keep it on the dry side, water just enough to moisten and then allow the top ½ inch to dry out before watering again. Pale bleached leaves will indicate that the plant is too dry and needs water. A healthy, mature plant will send out plantlets (when the days get shorter) which can easily be rooted in water or when if placed in moist soil.
Repot when the thick, fleshy rhizomes and roots are pot bound and force the soil above the pot rim level making watering difficult.

Brown tips or tip burn can occur when the soil is kept too dry or hard/fluorinated water is used. Spider plants are sensitive to fluoride which can be present in low-grade fertilizer and city tap water; to avoid this problem use rain water and a good quality fertilizer.
Common pests that attack Spider plants are: whitefly, spider mites, scale and aphids.

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Dracaena sanderiana, better known as Lucky Bamboo is not a bamboo but belongs to the lily family. It grows under low light conditions in the rain forest canopy in Southeast Asia which makes it an ideal plant for the office, or room with little sun. It is used in the Feng Shui system as green is a lucky color attracting positive chi. Lucky bamboo is given on special occasions such as the New Year.

Care: Lucky bamboo needs little care and should be grown in the shade/no direct sun at temperatures between 60-80F. It grows well under fluorescent lights. Keep the plant in at least 2 inches of water and change the water weekly. Use bottled spring (not distilled) or rain water. Tap water may have too many chemicals (salts, chlorine, and fluoride) which can lead to yellowing stem and an eventual slow death. Feed only when leaves turn a light color and use fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer. Keep the plant away from heating vents and air conditioners.

Troubleshooting
Brown tips 1. too much fertilizer or other chemicals such as fluoride in the water 2. low humidity
Yellowing leaves: 1. too much direct sun exposure 2. watering with tap water that is softened or fluoridated.
Webbing on the leaves- indicates spider mites. Wash the leaves can help control the problem.

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I have an avocado that we started from a seed (pit). It is now one year old and not doing so well. What are its requirements - soil, water, light, etc. for optimal performance??

Avocado makes a nice houseplant. Plant in well drained potting soil. It does best in partial shade/ low light and will tolerate temps of 55-65F for a few months. Excessive heat and dry air can cause leaf drop and marginal browning of leaves. Fertilize in the spring and place it outside in the shade for the summer, it will stimulate new growth. You can control the size and shape by pruning. It will not flower or bear fruit indoors as the commercial fruit bearing avocados are vegetatively reproduced. Hardy in zone 9-11

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I would like to know how to grow a gloxinia flower

Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa) has oblong fuzzy leaves, large velvety bell- shaped flowers with ruffled edges. It is a member of the Gesneriaceae family, a relative of the African Violet.
In Dec-March plant the rounded bottom of the tubers 1 inch deep in a light, well drained, potting soil that consists of peat moss, perlite, vermicultie and/or coarse sand. Water lightly until the leaves start to show then increase watering. Water around the base of the plant (like African violets) not on top of the leaves, do not let the water sit at the bottom of the pot. The soil should be kept moist but not soggy and not allowed to dry out. Gloxinia needs bright filtered light,warm temperatures above 70F and high humidity. Fertilize weekly with a flowering or general houseplant fertilizer during bloom time and stop feeding it after it is done blooming.

After it is finished flowering, reduce watering and allow the plant die back for a rest period. Store the tuberous stem @ 50F in a cool, dark place for 2-4 months in dry soil. When new growth start to appear (Jan-Feb) repot in fresh soil, start watering and place in bright filtered light. Gloxinias like the shade outdoors and bright light indoors.
Low light will produce long spindly growth and no blooms.
Soggy soil, overwatering can cause crown rot and root rot
source: http://hgic.clemson.edu

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Houseplants bring them back indoors.

As the end of summer approaches and night temperatures start to drop below 50 degrees, it is time to think about bringing your houseplants back inside. Summer vacation is over. Most houseplants are, after all, tropical and are accustomed to warm climates. Plants such as winter jasmine, Christmas & Thanksgiving cactus and cymbidium orchids will tolerate cooler temperatures (40’s) and actually need the colder temps and shorter days to stimulate bud-formation for winter blooming.

Before you bring your plants indoors there are a few things you should do.

Two weeks prior, move them into the shade to help adjust to the lower light indoors.
While they are outside, clean your windows. A clean window will allow more light to pass through than a dirty one.

Carefully check your plants for insects and eggs. To force out any unwanted pests, soak your plant up to the rim in a sink full of water. If that is not possible, try a soil drench - systemic granules that are sprinkled on the soil surface and watered in. If necessary, spray the plant with insecticidal soap or a recommended topical spray covering the top and undersides of the leaves. You don’t want to bring uninvited guests into the house.

No need to repot at this time, unless your plant is potbound. If you feel its necessary, refresh the soil with a lightweight soiless mix but do not change the size of the pot. This also gives you an opportunity to check for insects. Repot your plants in the spring.

Discontinue fertilization Plants should be fed when they are actively growing so they can take advantage of the nutrients. Low light, short days will slow plant growth and fertilization should be stopped, except for winter flowering plants. Resume feeding in late winter.

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Hanging Basket care

Many of us buy beautiful, floriferous hanging baskets at nurseries or even box stores. They look great for a few weeks and then start to slowly fade; no longer looking like the one we bought a month ago. Here are few hints to keep that hanging basket looking good all summer long.

Keep in mind that growers fertilize the baskets every time they water. This helps maintain healthy, vigorous growth. A grower from Countryside nursery recommended a fertilizing once a week with a formula of 24-12-17 with micro nutrients such as iron, copper, manganese satisfies the heavy feeding requirements for hanging baskets. There are some specially formulated fertilizers available for container growing on the market. It is the fertilizer that will sustain and maintain the plant in a vigorous growing state. A research study in Michigan State compared 3 flowering baskets: one with soluble fertilizer, one with a time-release fertilizer incorporated into the soil and the one with both soluble and time-release fertilizer. The third basket with both soluble and time-release fertilizer preformed the best.

Fertilizer is not the only important factor. Watering is just as important. Most of us find that by the time we get home from work, our poor basket is drooping from the heat of the day and lack of water. So we immediately get the watering can and pour lots of water on the plant to rehydrate it. This practice causes lots of stress to the plant. In addition, leaving soaking wet roots overnight (when its cooler) can invite root rot and other diseases. Judicial watering(just enough to revive the plant) in the evening and good drainage is a must. It is best to water in the morning using a wand or watering can and pouring water directly onto the soil avoiding wet leaves. When feeding your plants, water first with unfertilized water and drain; then re-water with a fertilizer solution. This will keep soluble salt accumulation to a minimum and avoid fertilizer burn to the roots. A moisture retaining polymer can also be added to the soil to keep your plant hydrated longer.

Check the label for sun exposure- hang your plant in the right spot - too much sun can be as bad as not enough. If you basket shows signs of scorching, brown edges and faded or bleached leaves if may be getting too much sun. Spindly, leggy plants with lack of flowers can indicate not enough sun. Plants facing west in the summer will require more water and need to tolerate hotter temperatures.

Hopefully, some of these suggestions will reward with summer long blossoms.

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The florist variety of Cyclamen (C. persicum) was ‘the plant’ during the Christmas holiday in the Victorian era; today it is making a comeback in popularity. The name Cyclamen comes from the Greek word circle referring to the round corm from which it grows. It has also been called Poor mans orchid, Alpine violet and Persian violet.

The uniquely shaped flowers usually have 5 petals that can be single, double or delicately ruffled which come in shades of pink, purple, salmon, fuchsia, mauve, red and pure white as well as two-toned petals. They are sometimes described as a cluster of butterflies hovering over a rosette of variegated leaves. The flower stalks rise above the round-heart shaped leaves that are marked with a silvery marbling or wide silver margins. The plants range in size from a large standard that grows up to 14 inches tall to the ‘mini’ varieties.

The florist Cyclamen with proper care can last 2-3 months in the house. It requires bright indirect light, the coolest room in the house with temperatures of 50 at night and around 65 during the day and high humidity. Keep it away from heating vents. Even moisture is essential, therefore, water the plant from the bottom by placing the pot in a water-filled bowl or water on the side of the pot avoiding the tuber and leaves. Be sure to drain off all excess water. Do not pour water directly on the tuber as this can cause rot. Allow the plant to dry a bit before watering again. Not enough water will cause floppy, limp leaves but too much water can be worse. Feed your Cyclamen with half strength of a well balanced liquid fertilizer every 3-4 weeks. Snap off faded flowers along with the stem by twisting the stem at the base of the corm and pulling it sharply. Also, remove yellowed or damaged leaves. Yellow foliage can indicate too much heat and dry air and can shorten the blooming time.

Re-blooming a Cyclamen is not easy but it can be done. Some will just discard the plant when it is done blooming while others will take on the challenge. When the plant is finished blooming, gradually reduce watering. Once the leaves turn yellow, stop watering all together. This will coax the cyclamen into a dormant period which it needs to rebloom next year. Store the corms in their pot or take them out of the pot put in paper bag and store in a cool (50), dry, dark place. In May or June replant the corms 1/2 above the soil line in fresh soil place in bright cool room and begin to water and fertilize regularly. When new growth appears, move the plant to a shady spot in the summer. Once cooler weather sets in (autumn) bring it back inside to enjoy the blooms.

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Houseplants spring cleaning

Now that spring has sprung, its time to take a good look at some of your houseplants that have endured the long cold winter. Most houseplants are tropical and require high humidity and warm temperatures, which they most likely will not get in the colder climate regions. The plan is to keep them thriving thru the winter in a restful stage until the warmer weather comes along. With days getting brighter and longer, a new growing season is beginning. It’s time to do some spring cleaning.

Check the pot size. Is your plant potbound? Does it have crammed roots? Are they wrapped around in circle? If so, repot in a 1 inch larger size pot loosening the roots so that they can stretch out.
Check for insects. The dry, warm temperatures indoors is a perfect environment for spider mites. To check for mites, look for webs in the axils of the leaves . Place the plant or leaf on white sheet of paper, tap the leaf, see if there are any small black spots that are slowly moving, if so, you should spray the entire plant and underside of leaves with a safe indoor insecticide. Follow manufacturers directions. Rotate the plant to ensure even sun exposure; this way you will have a nicely shaped plant.
Water when the plant is dry not according to a timed schedule. Warmer temperatures and active growth will increase the need for water.
Fertilize - Once temperatures get warmer and the plant begins to actively grow, start feeding with a diluted fertilizer or fish emulsion. Before fertilizing, water dry plants first to avoid burning the roots with fertilizer. Fish emulsion is not as strong as a chemical fertilizer and therefore is less likely to burn the roots or lead to soluble salt buildup.
Propagation: Spring is a great time to take cuttings and make new plants. Cuttings can root in light soil, peat, perlite or water (depending on the plant).
When night temperatures reach 55F, move your plant outdoors for a summer vacation. Slowly acclimate it in the shade and after a week move it to brighter light (depending on the plant).
Now your plant is ready for a new healthy growing season !

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Typically people may buy a potted plant in a supermarket and have no way of knowing how to care for the plant. If available, labels may have some minimal information on them. Basic light and temperature requirements to come.

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Miniature rose plant can be grown indoors for a limited time. They need high light and humidity to bloom well. Additional artificial lights and a moist pebble tray will help improve their growing requirements during the winter. They should be kept moist at all times but do not allowed to stand in water; drain any excess water so that roots won’t drown and rot. A cool spot (60-72F) with bright indirect sunlight will encourage reblooming. If the plant is actively growing feed it with a flowering houseplant fertilizer to encourage new blooms. Remove any withered blooms and yellowing leaves.

Maintain your mini rose till spring time (cooler climate areas) then plant it in the ground when all danger of frost has passed. Plant it in a sunny location with at least 1/2 day sun and in well-drained, rich, organic soil. Prune the plant 5 inches from the ground, removing any dead canes and water in thoroughly.

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Most Azaleas purchased from florists and supermarkets are greenhouse grown and are hardy in zones 7-10. They are grown in well-drained acidic peat soil ph (5.5-6.0) for good water retention.

Watering practice is one of the most important factors for extending the life of your Azalea. If the soil is allowed to dry out it is difficult to rehydrate and therefore should be kept evenly moist. Check for watering daily. When the pot feels light or top layer is dry, water your plant. Remove the decorative cover before watering to allow for drainage. Don’t let the roots sit in water this can lead to root rot. Sometimes we forget to water and if the plant wilts, it can be rehydrated by placing it in a dish and soaking it for a few hours. It will perk up but will have signs of damage such as wrinkled,dry flowers, brown leaf tips and eventual leaf drop. Deadhead any wilted flowers and prune after the plant is finished blooming.

Keep your Azalea in a cool, indirect sunny area away from drafts or heating vents and fertilize with 1/4 strength acid fertilizer (Miracle Grow, Muracid)

Azalea is one of the longer lasting indoor blooming plants you can buy. When choosing an Azalea, pick one with tight buds and healthy leaves which will extend your blooming time.

After blooming and when the weather warms up, it can be set outdoors in partial shade for the summer but needs to be brought indoors for the winter.

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Two questions.. I grow african violets; some produce great blooms for me while others refuse to do so.. How can I make them flower? Also, I have one plant where the bottom leaves died off and the stem is now approximatly 5 inches tall with no leaves on the bottom only on top. The stem looks like it has “thorns” where the leaves dropped off from. What could cause this ??

First, let’s talk about blooming. Hard to say why one blooms and not the other. Violets tend to bloom when slightly pot bound. They need bright indirect light (East window) throughout the year and temperatures ranging from 60-80 degrees. In order to bloom, violets should receive no more than 16 hrs of light/day. Saintpaulias will grow with as little as 3 hrs of light per day. Conversely, they need at least 8 hrs of darkness to trigger blooming. The soiless mix that they are planted in have little nutrients and need to be supplemented, therefore feed it with a balanced liquid fertilizer (20-20-20) at 1/4 strength every time you water. Avoid fertilizer with urea which can cause root burn, pale leaves and reduce blooming. Another old suggestion is to sprinkle epson salts (magnesium sulfate) on top of the soil and water it in. Apply it once and it may take a month to see results.

When the lower leaves die back, they produce a “bare neck” look; to remedy this take the dull end of a knife and scape off the dead tissue along the stem, then repot so that the leaves line up with the edge of the pot and fill with soil.

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