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A traditional Christmas holiday decoration is the Mistletoe (Phoradendron flavescens) which represented fertility, life, romance and peace. The Druids believed it would bring good health and luck. It was also used for medicinal purposes in treating several ailments. In reality mistletoe is a semi parasitic plant that makes its own food but thrives on other living plants for water and nutrients. Because it does not have a root system, it feeds on a host tree using root-like projections called haustoria. These projections penetrate the host tree and suck out water and nutrients, thereby earning the name “Vampire plant". It can weaken and even kill a stressed tree.

There are over 1500 species worldwide but in the U.S., mistletoe is most prevalent in the southern states and grows on deciduous and evergreen trees. Much of it is harvested in Oklahoma and Texas for holiday decor.

Caution: All parts of the plants are poisonous. For safety reasons, the waxy white berries are replaced with fake berries. That’s probably why they hang it from doorways and ceilings; to keep it away from children and animals.

Now you know the real story: This innocent looking plant is quite sinister in nature.
source: U of Iowa

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previous post: Christmas tree care
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Whether you cut your own or buy a pre-cut Christmas tree, a little care will help you keep your tree fresh longer and avoid it becoming a fire hazard.
Here are some suggestions:
It is always best to start with a fresh tree. To check for freshness, sharply bend several needles between your thumb and forefinger, if the needles are brittle and snap then it’s too dry. Needles on a fresh tree will be flexible and spring back. They will be resilient when you brush your hand on the branch.

Choose varieties known for great needle retention and fragrance such as Balsam, Concolor, Douglas and Fraser fir. Scotch and white pine also hold their needles longer. Norway and white spruce are the worst.

When you bring your tree home, cut off a 1 inch slice off the bottom and place in a bucket of water. This will allow the tree to drink and rehydrate. A newly cut tree will drink up to a quart or more of water each day for the first few days. Check the water level daily, if the bottom is allowed to dry out you will have to recut the base to open the sealed bottom before bringing it indoors. Store the tree in a cool, shaded location.

When bringing indoors, have the tree stand ready and place away from a heating vent or fireplace. Make sure it can hold enough water (min.1 qt) to keep the tree from drying out. Check the water supply daily.
The key to maintaining a fresh tree is to keep it in water at a cooler room temperature.

After the holidays, recycle your tree by placing it outdoors in the yard for wintering birds to enjoy. It can also be submerged in a pond to create a fish habitat. Branches can be used as protective covers for perennial beds or chipped for mulch in the spring.

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previous post: Reblooming Poinsettia
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Instead of discarding your poinsettia, some take on the challenge of re-blooming it for the next year. Here’s what you need to do. Maintain and water the plant until March to May. The plant may be leggy and bare and should be cut down to 4-6 inch stems and kept at temperatures of 60-70F. New growth will emerge within a few weeks. Repot the plant in fresh soil.

In mid-May/June, place the plant outside (when night temps are above 50) in partial shade, protected from the afternoon sun. You can sink the pot into your flower bed and be sure to rotate the pot periodically so the roots don’t grow into the soil. Start feeding it every 2-3 weeks with a well-balanced soluble houseplant fertilizer.

If the plant gets tall and misshapen pinch back the lateral shoots between July-August to shape the plant.

In the fall, when temperatures get below 45ºF for an extended period bring your poinsettia back indoors. Poinsettias need short days and long nights to bloom. To initiate blooming you must expose the plant to 14 hrs of uninterrupted darkness (no cheating, even a small amount of light will break the cycle) followed by 10 hrs of bright light for a period of 8-10 weeks starting late September. Keep it in a room that you don’t use in the evening or place it in a black plastic bag or a box. (Don’t forget to take it out during the day.)
Poinsettia needs a cool, bright location during the day with temperatures ranging from 60 to 70F. Water when the soil surface is dry and drain any excess. Don’t let your plant stand in water. Continue to fertilize lightly every 4 wks with 15-16-17, or 20-10-20 until flowering begins (mid-December). Because of lower light conditions and slower growth reduce the amount of fertilizer. Once the plant is in bloom stop fertilizing and resume again in March.
It takes 60-85 days depending on variety, temperature and light intensity for the bracts to show color.

Reblooming a poinsettia requires persistent attention and can be a rewarding challenge.

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Poinsettia care One of the traditional and most popular holiday flowers is the Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). The delicate, yet dazzling flowers (bracts) range from huge bushes to miniatures plants and come in assorted colors that are sure to make the holiday brighter.
There is nothing more impressive than the classic deep red Poinsettia. On the other hand, snowflake white given the right setting has a most elegant appeal; whereas delicate shades of pink (Monet), mauves (Plum Pudding) burgundy(Cortez, Cranberry Punch)can easily be coordinated to any home decor. Each year more colors and varieties are available to peak our interest. The new Freedom series are known for their vibrant color and large bracts.

When selecting a poinsettia look for dark healthy leaves, no yellowing bottom leaves. The bracts (leaves that work as petals) should be bright and completely colored. The true flowers are the tightly clustered, small, green or red-tipped flowers in the center of the bracts. Yellow pollen will shorten the life of the flowers. Do not choose a plant that is wilted or drooping.

Poinsettias are very sensitive to the cold so if the temperature is below 50 degrees outside make sure that it is wrapped for protection when you buy it. In order to maintain a healthy Poinsettia during the holiday season keep the plant in bright diffused light away from heating vents (hot dry air) and cold drafts. A temperature of 55-60 degrees at night and 72 during the day along with high humidity is ideal. The cool night temperatures will extend blooming time. Keep the plant evenly moist as moisture fluctuation, cold/hot drafts can cause premature leaf drop. When watering, do not let it stand in water, be sure to slip off the decorative foil cover (if there is one) or punch a hole in the cover to drain the excess water.

Contrary to beliefs, Poinsettias are not toxic. If you have a latex allergy, the sap from the leaves can irrate your skin. According to Poisindex, a 50# child would have to eat 500 bracts to get a stomach ache. Of course resulting reaction may vary with individuals. Poinsettia are not edible and as with all houseplants, should not to be eaten.

Have a safe and happy holiday!!
reblooming poinsettia

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CHRISTMAS CACTUS

Perhaps one of the more popular flowering plants around the holidays is the Schlumbergera bridgesii better known as the Christmas cactus. It offers a profusion of tubular flowers that bloom for two to four weeks around Christmas time.

Originating from Brazil, this jungle cactus lives on trees and is different from the desert cactus in that it is the trailing type and does not require direct sunlight. At times there can be confusion as to which type of Schlumbergera you have. Christmas cacti have flattened leaves with scallop-edged margins that are smooth and spineless with tubular 3 inch flowers, as opposed to the Thanksgiving cactus (Zygocactus truncates)(S. truncatus) crab cactus, which has sharply toothed edges with two large teeth at the end of the last joint on each branch. and shorter tubed flowers with spreading pointed petals. To add to this confusion there is also the Easter cactus (S. gaertneri) which grows more upright, has pointed teeth and fibrous hairs at the joints. All bloom close to their respective holidays under normal growing conditions.

Not only are these cacti so popular because of their spectacular blooming habit but also because they are relatively easy to care for. They require a rich, well drained soil, bright indirect light and a daytime temperature of 70 degrees and night temperature of 60-65. Feed it with a balanced houseplant fertilizer between April and October. Christmas cactus is not drought tolerant. Water the plants thoroughly and let them dry out between watering. Do not ignore it or kill it with kindness. The leaves will wrinkle if the soil is too dry and when over watered which can lead to root rot. Water less in the winter. Prune the plants in the summer to encourage more branching by pinching off at the joints. The stem cuttings can be rooted and started as new plants.

When the plants are in bloom it is important not to let the plant dry out or expose them to direct heat as that may cause the flower buds to drop . Too much light can fade the flowers. Fertilize with a high potassium fertilizer when the buds form and continue until the flowers fade.

With a little effort and understanding, one can repeat the flowering process year after year. There are two important factors in encouraging bud formation 1. Long nightsChristmas cactus requires at least 14 hours of darkness. 2. Prolonged cool temperatures of 50-55 degrees. Bud formation will not happen if temperatures are above 70 degrees. The plant should bloom within six weeks.

With a little love and care Schlumbergeras will flourish for years. Some do so well that they have been known to be passed down in families for generations.

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Here is an interesting Irish folklore about a man named Stingy Jack. As the story goes, Stingy Jack invited the Devil for drinks. Once they were done, Jack , true to his nickname, refused to pay for the drinks. He convinced the Devil into turning himself into a coin so that he could pay for the drinks. The Devil did so, but Jack instead of paying for the drinks decided to keep the coin. He put it in his pocket with a silver cross so that the Devil could not change to his original form. After some time, Jack let the Devil change under the condition that he will not bother him for 1 year on take his soul if he should die within that time. The devil agreed. The next year when the devil appeared, slick Jack talked him into climbing a tree to pick some fruit. While he was up in the tree, Jack carved a cross in the bark of the tree. This time the devil had to promise not to bother Jack for 10 years.

Shortly afterwards, Jack died. Upon his demise the good Lord hearing about Jacks misgivings and lack of character decided that such a soul did not belong in heaven and sent Jack down to hell. The Devil still feeling the sting of Jacks trickery honored his promise and refused to accept his soul in hell. Jack had nowhere to go. He was sent back into the dark of the night with only a piece of coal to light his way. Jack took the coal and put it in a carved out turnip to make a light. He is forever doomed to roam the Earth at night with only the coal lantern to light his way. As the story goes, whenever the Irish saw the ghostly figure they said, there goes Jack of the Lantern, later they shortened it to Jack o’ Lantern.

As the legend grew, the Irish and Scottish thought it was best to make their own versions of Jacks lantern by carving scary faces in turnips, beets or potatoes. They would place them on window sills and at the foot steps of doors to keep Stingy Jack and other evil spirits away. This tradition was brought to the U.S. with the immigrants and has been carried out throughout the years using the native pumpkin as the ideal Jack o Lantern.

Happy Halloween!!!
for more info on pumpkins

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Saving Your Easter lily

The blossoms on your Easter lily are starting to fade, you look at the plant and wonder “now what”. Here’s what you can do. After the last flower has withered, cut it off and keep the plant growing indoors until the weather warms up.

Lilies are great repeat preformers and can be planted in the garden after the danger of frost has passed. Place them in a 6-8” deep, well-drained sunny location and water immediately after planting. Lilies like their “feet in the shade and heads in the sun”, therefore mulch at least 2” deep. This will conserve moisture and keep the weeds away.

It is important to let the leaves and stems die back in order to replenish the nutrients and energy needed for next year’s growth. Once they turn brown, cut off the stems of the original plant and wait for the new growth to begin. It is unlikely that your lily will re-bloom this year but look for it in subsequent years to bloom in June-July.

Fertilize monthly, when the new shoots emerge until flowering with an 8-8-8 or use a slow release fertilizer in the spring. Apply the fertilizer 3 inches away from the stem and water.

Easter lilies grown in the cooler zones such as Northern Illinois are marginally hardy. It is recommended that they be planted 8” deep and heavily mulched over the winter, in case of a hard freeze. It’s worth the effort.

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How to pick an Easter lily

Originating from the mountains of Taiwan, the potted Easter lily (Lilium longiflorum) symbol of hope and life is the traditional plant of the Easter season.

In order to select a high quality Easter lily there are some factors you must consider. Look for a plant with dense dark shiny green leaves along the entire stem of the plant. Avoid plants with yellowing leaves, it can be an indicator of a problem. Choose buds that are partially opened as well as a few unopened ones. The staggered blooming times will add to your continued enjoyment. Some people will actually count the number of buds on the plant and of course, choose the one with the most flower buds. Be wary of plants that look wilted, this may indicate root rot from too much water.

CARE
Once you bring your lily home, place it in indirect, bright, and light. They prefer temperatures of 60-65 degrees during the day and even cooler at night. Keep the soil moist and avoid over watering. Lilies do not like their feet wet therefore, when watering remove the decorative pot if necessary to allow the plant to drain any standing water.

As the buds open remove the yellow anthers before the pollen sheds, it will prolong the lifespan of the flower and keep the pollen off the white flowers. Cut away any withered flowers to maintain a fresh appearance.

Enjoy your Easter lily, its beauty and fragrance. When it’s finished blooming see the article on “Saving your Easter Lily

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Coloring Easter eggs the natural way

Easter is a time of renewal. In many pagan cultures a decorated egg became the symbol of rebirth. Coloring eggs was first introduced to Europe by the Crusaders who brought the idea back from the East. My earliest and fondest memory of coloring Easter eggs was when I was a child in Germany. It was with delight that we spent hours preparing our boiled eggs with bees wax (pisanki) and then dipped them in dyes to get a number of different colors. My favorite method was to simmer the egg in yellow onion skins to attain a beautiful tan to golden brown color. We would then let the egg cool and scratch a design on the egg with a needle or special tool. I continued this scratch method into my adult life and still enjoy some of my old “pieces of art” which I bring out at Easter time.

There are a number of dyes from nature that you can use to color your eggs. Generally, with natural dyes, the more coloring agent and the longer the egg remains in the dye, the deeper and darker the color will be. Here are some ideas for natural dyes you can get from items that you may have in the spice cabinet and kitchen.

Red-orange - Simmer eggs in a large pot of water for up to an hour in red onion skins.
A teaspoon of vinegar to 2 cups of water will help speed up the dyeing process and attain a deeper color. Pomegranite juice and crushed cranberries will also produce a red color.
Paprika will make a light orange color.

Brown - Two tablespoons of instant coffee and one teaspoon of vinegar to 2 cups of hot water. Soak boiled egg overnight.

Yellow - Two teaspoons of turmeric or cumin, one teaspoon of vinegar in 3 cups of water –
Soak boiled egg overnight. Use yellow onion skins for a tan, yellow orange to golden brown color. Also, try Alder catkins.

Pink - Soak hard boiled egg in beet juice overnight in the frig

Lavender - Pour hot water over violet blossoms and soak hard-boiled egg overnight in the frig.

Blue - Simmer eggs in red cabbage , add 1 teaspoon alum per cup, for a deep blue, grape juice or frozen blueberries (pale gray blue).

Another method of coloring eggs is to place delicate material, such as fern fronds, leaves or flowers on the egg and wrap them in cheesecloth or pantyhose. Tie the ends and boil the wrapped eggs in clear water 10-15 minutes, and see what happens!

Have fun coloring your Easter eggs with your family this year. If you have any other dye suggestions, please let us know. We’d love to hear from you!

An easy way to make an Easter table arrangement: combine 3-4 pansies in a basket, cover with grass, add colored eggs and finish off with pussy willows or any other spring flowering branches.

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previous post: Shamrocks (Oxalis)
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The earliest reference to the shamrock was in the 5th century when St. Patrick used the shamrock to explain the Trinity to the Druids. There is no proof of knowing that this really happened, however, the shamrock continued to become a part of Irish legend and history. Today in Ireland, the three-lobed leaf is a symbol of Ireland and is proudly worn as a “good luck” badge on St. Patrick’s day.

The “lucky clover” is not the same as the Shamrock plant sold at the grocery stores around St. Patrick’s day. The word shamrock is derived from Celtic word, “trefoil” (three-leafed), or “little clover". Trifolium repens is the small white clover that is found in lawns and also used as a green manure cover crop. Irish experts consider this to be the true shamrock. Although, others may argue that the yellow flowered (Trifolium dubium) is the real deal. Both are difficult to grow indoors.

The ones sold in grocery stores referred to as a “shamrock” belong to a large family of Oxalis with over 800 varieties, native to Chile and South Africa. They grow from small corms or tuberous roots which produce delicate, clover-like leaves that are light sensitive, close at night (nyctinstic movements). The leaves range from a green to purple with flowers that come in a variety of colors; white, cream, yellow, pink, purple and red.
Oxalis regnelli, sold as the shamrock plant, has white flowers and green foliage. Another version, O. triangularis has purple leaves with pinkish to white flowers.

CARE
Indoors - keep in a well-lit location (east or west window) away from hot and cold drafts at temperatures of 60-70F during the day and 55-65F at night. They should be kept barely moist at all times and not allowed to stand in water as that will cause root rot. Fertilize every 2 -4 weeks with a houseplant fertilizer. The plant is relatively pest free and may be planted outdoors when the weather gets warm or kept as a houseplant. After blooming, if the plant dies back, allow it to go dormant for 1-3 months. The corms should be kept cool and dry. After dormancy, repot and or divide the corms (optional). When signs of new growth emerge, begin to water, fertilize and move to a sunny spot. Oxalis regnelli and O.triangularis are hardy in zone 6-10. There are hardier varieties that can be grown outdoors as a nice ground cover.
Troubleshooting: Tall & lanky plant - needs more light, too warm (temps over 75)
Yellowing plant - watering too much.
May the luck of the Irish be with you!
Happy St. Patty’s!!

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