Comments on: Climbing Hydrangea

By: Leandra

Leandra — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 14:18:25 +0000

Fall leaf drop and pruning
Hello, I have 3 very healthy climbing Hydrangia, and they are now, at least 6 years old. They all bloombed well this summer. Now after a good frost, in the 20F’s the other night, all three look like they are dying back. Do they do this in the winter? And should I cut back, or leave alone? They have already been pruned a little after flowering? I don’t want to loose these plants, so I will wait to hear from you!!! Thank you so much!

Hi Leandra
It is normal for Hydrangea will drop their leaves once exposed to freezing temperatures. When the vine is old enough, you will see the beautiful exfoliating bark that climbing hydrangea is famous for. They are going dormant but should return next spring when the weather warms up.
You don’t need to prune it, unless your climbing hydrangea is out of control. Trimming after bloom is a great way to shape the vine. Any additional pruning can be done in mid-winter when the vine is dormant.

By: Nancy

Nancy — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 13:24:30 +0000

Rust on hydrangea vine
In the early spring, I planted two healthy climbing hydrangia on a metal arbor. They were doing really well until about a month ago. The leaves started to get rusty looking spots on the bottom and are now turning yellow and beginning to fall off. There is still new growth appearing. I am worred that something may be killing my plants. What could be causing this?

Hi Nancy
There is a rust caused by a fungus that attacks hydrangea close to the end of the growing season. It may be weather related and rarely kills the plants. Be sure to water your plants before winter so tht they are well established before the soil freezes. As long as there are healthy buds on your vine, it should be ok.

By: mark

mark — Sun, 09 Aug 2009 16:54:33 +0000

I am about to plany a climbing hydrangea next to our shed. I attached a trellis to the shed. My question is about the roots of the climbing hydrangea. My question is about their roots. I was only able to dig about a foot and a half before hitting a a lot of big rocks which so far I have been able unable to remove. I am thinking of raising the level by adding about a foot of dirt, which would give them about 2 1/2 feet of dirt. How deep do the roots of the climbing hydrangea need to go? if they encounter some rocks will they adapt and be able to go around them underground?
Thanks

HI Mark
I’m not sure how deep climbing hydrangea roots go but 2-2/2 ft. should be plenty. The hole should be twice the size of the pot and as deep as the pot.Water in well and place 2-3 inches around the plant to retain even moisture. The roots can adapt and go around some obstacles like rocks.

By: Toronto

Toronto — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 17:32:35 +0000

I recently planted 2 Japanese climbing hydrangeas and in preparation for the upcoming snowy winter, I wanted to know how I winterize it to protect it from the extreme cold and snow. Does anyone know?

HI
I’m presuming that you are referring to a climbing hydrangea H. anomola (petiolaris). They are hardy in temperatures to -20 F. I’m not sure how cold it gets in Toronto. You may not have to do anything to winterize it but give it 2-3 inches of mulch around the roots.

By: Dan

Dan — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 21:01:03 +0000

Will the vines live on treated lumber?

Good question. I don’t know. Maybe someone out there has had experience with this. I don’t think it will affect the vine.
The vine should climb very well on the treated lumber.

By: Laurie

Laurie — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:25:13 +0000

Remove root markings
I bought my house two years ago and it had a beautiful climbing hydrangia on one portion of the front of the house. It started growing too tall reaching the roof line so I had to cut off about 3 feet of the plant to keep in under control. The problem is I am now left with the aerial roots on the siding and the brick. Are there any tricks to getting the root marks off of the house?

Hi Laurie
The root residue is very difficult to remove. That is the drawback of growing certain vines on brick buildings. You can try a wire brush, scraper, or power wash it off. It may be a slow, painstaking process. Good luck.

By: Cheryl

Cheryl — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 01:57:22 +0000

You had mentioned that a climbing hydrangea doesn’t do well on a chain link fence. That’s all I have and just planted my hydrangea. Will I be able to train it along the fence as it matures?

By: Janet McCaffrey

Janet McCaffrey — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 17:10:47 +0000

I planted several climbing hydrangeas on a 6 ft high wooden fence and they have spread quite a bit and I’m now concerned about their weight on the fence. Any easy way of removing them?

Hi Janet
If you want to remove a whole vine, cut it at the soil line and that will kill the vine. You can also cut back the vine by 1/3 to alleviate the weight problem.

By: Karla (Edmonds, WA)

Karla (Edmonds, WA) — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:58:56 +0000

I am in the process of removing a Wisteria that has, unfortunately, damaged my front porch to the point of needing replacement. It has grown onto the roof of my two-story home, and up into the eaves and siding, damaging the boards. Two beautiful rose vines, one pink, one red, have grown up through it, creating a beautiful display. I am trying to save the roses as I remove the Wisteria.

I purchased a Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea Anomala Petiolaris) that I wanted to plant in place of the Wisteria. I understand, from my research and reading the posts here, that the Climbing Hydrangea will attach to the wood siding of my home.

My First Question—will it have the same tendencies as the Wisteria, namely, to develop thick, woody stems that will creep under my siding, lifting and destroying the structure, or will it have a less “invasive” vine that “sticks” just to the outside of the wood.

My Second Question—Would it be wiser to construct a wood trellis a foot away from the house upon which the Climbing Hydrangea could grow? Thank you for your time and help.–K

Hi Karla
Climbing hydrangea attaches itself with aereal roots to cement themselves to the surface. It should be less invasive but will leave marks on the siding should you decide to remove it. It will develop a thick stem with cinnamon exfoliating bark that it is famous for. You will have to provide a sturdy support for the vine.
I think the woody trellis is a good idea. Make sure it is high enough. as they mature, can get up to 70 ft tall.

By: anne henry

anne henry — Tue, 26 May 2009 00:36:43 +0000

recently purchased climbing hydrangea, although concerned at the plants appearance at time of purchase I bought anyway. Plant seems very “leggy” with yellowing leaves, and numerous flowers (which I assume is good). What can I do to revive or care for this sad looking plant??
Thank you

Hi Anne
Leggy and yellowing leaves indicate not enough light and perhaps lacking nutirents/insects/watering. Plantthe climbing hydrangea in well-drained soil, maintain even moisture (2″ mulch around the plant). Once you see new growth give it 1/2 dose of fertilizer- check fertilizer rates on the package. Less is more in young plants. Don’t feed after Aug.1.