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	<title>Comments on: Houseplants spring cleaning</title>
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	<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning</link>
	<description>Plant Care &#38; Gardening Tips for Expert to the Novice, all welcomed...even FTD florists ;) community forum.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 16:50:10 -0500</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Ray C</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-23728</link>
		<dc:creator>Ray C</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2009 15:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-23728</guid>
		<description>Is it possible to split a &lt;strong&gt;anthurium&lt;/strong&gt;,because it is getting to big for my pot.



&lt;blockquote&gt;HI Ray
Yes, they can be divided. Knock the plant out of the pot and split the large root clump and replant in fresh soil. Each division should have ample roots. If you have any offshoots, simply separate them from the mother plant and replant as well.  Make sure your offshoots have some roots on it. Keep your newly divided plants moist (not wet) and in a protected area away from direct sun until they are established. &lt;/blockquote&gt;

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		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Is it possible to split a <strong>anthurium</strong>,because it is getting to big for my pot.</p>
<blockquote><p>HI Ray<br />
Yes, they can be divided. Knock the plant out of the pot and split the large root clump and replant in fresh soil. Each division should have ample roots. If you have any offshoots, simply separate them from the mother plant and replant as well.  Make sure your offshoots have some roots on it. Keep your newly divided plants moist (not wet) and in a protected area away from direct sun until they are established. </p></blockquote>
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		<title>By: Ray</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-11210</link>
		<dc:creator>Ray</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Mar 2009 16:15:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-11210</guid>
		<description>Thanks for re-assuring me on my orchid care! Yes, I do seem to do well with them &amp; have infact been given friends&#039; plants which have not bloomed after the 1st time, &amp; cared them into re-blooming!
Thanks again for your advice.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for re-assuring me on my orchid care! Yes, I do seem to do well with them &amp; have infact been given friends&#8217; plants which have not bloomed after the 1st time, &amp; cared them into re-blooming!<br />
Thanks again for your advice.</p>
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		<title>By: Ray</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-10993</link>
		<dc:creator>Ray</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Mar 2009 14:58:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-10993</guid>
		<description>I have a Phal for over 2yrs that is continuously in bloom! I have yet to cut the original spike down &amp; all the new growths have been have been from each subsequent spike. It has grown horizontally, upto 2ft sideways from the original stem. The blooms are quite large &amp; atleast 4 to 5 per growth. It is currently blooming again for the 4th time &amp; I was wondering if there is anything I should be doing to make it more manageable. It is also in its orig pot &amp; I can see lots of green roots, but the plant has not yet heaved out of the pot, so to speak! I am loath to cut down the orig stem, fearing I might not get another growth for a long time. Since the plant &amp; its blooms have always been healthy, should I just leave well alone? Another plant given at the same time, bloomed furiously for 18mths &amp; when I finally re-potted it, it died on me; so you can imagine my fear! Thanks for your comments on helping me hold on to this wonderful specimen



&lt;blockquote&gt;Hi Ray,
I would leave well enough alone. I have repotted Phalonopsis orchids and they never seem to re-adjust well.  It sounds like you have a great environment for them.  You can feed with 1/2 strength fertilizer when it starts to grow new leaves so that it gets more nutrients.  I would not consider repotting until it stop blooming.  &lt;/blockquote&gt;

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		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a Phal for over 2yrs that is continuously in bloom! I have yet to cut the original spike down &#038; all the new growths have been have been from each subsequent spike. It has grown horizontally, upto 2ft sideways from the original stem. The blooms are quite large &#038; atleast 4 to 5 per growth. It is currently blooming again for the 4th time &#038; I was wondering if there is anything I should be doing to make it more manageable. It is also in its orig pot &#038; I can see lots of green roots, but the plant has not yet heaved out of the pot, so to speak! I am loath to cut down the orig stem, fearing I might not get another growth for a long time. Since the plant &#038; its blooms have always been healthy, should I just leave well alone? Another plant given at the same time, bloomed furiously for 18mths &#038; when I finally re-potted it, it died on me; so you can imagine my fear! Thanks for your comments on helping me hold on to this wonderful specimen</p>
<blockquote><p>Hi Ray,<br />
I would leave well enough alone. I have repotted Phalonopsis orchids and they never seem to re-adjust well.  It sounds like you have a great environment for them.  You can feed with 1/2 strength fertilizer when it starts to grow new leaves so that it gets more nutrients.  I would not consider repotting until it stop blooming.  </p></blockquote>
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		<title>By: Ray</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-4253</link>
		<dc:creator>Ray</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Sep 2008 17:27:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-4253</guid>
		<description>I have &lt;strong&gt;3 Orchids &lt;/strong&gt;that have stopped flowering. I have re-potted them in a ready orchid mix, in clear pots, &amp; placed them near a brightly lit window. Is there anything else I should do? When should I resume feeding the plants? (They are all &lt;strong&gt;Phals&lt;/strong&gt;) A 4th Orchid has repeatedly bloomed without repotting or anything special, &amp; the creamy blooms are gorgeous &amp; large! So with the others, am at a bit of a loss as they have no new spikes, but healthy leaves &amp; roots.
Thanks!

&lt;blockquote&gt;Hi Ray
Sounds like you&#039;re doing great!  Make sure your phals are not in direct sun or it will scald the leaves.  You should feed your orchids on a regular basis since the potting media has little nutrients.  Use an orchid fertilizer or  balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at half strength every two weeks or (weakly, weekly=1/4 strength). I fertilize more in the summer growing season.   Repotting should be done after bloom or in the spring.  I wouldn&#039;t worry about new flower spikes just yet, as long as your phalaenopsis have new healthy leaves and roots, they&#039;re doing fine.  Normally, cool fall nights (55F) will encourage the plant to initiate new spikes. 
Now, here&#039;s a plant tip about the flower spike.  When the last flower falls off and the plant is done blooming, cut the spike at the first or second node.  This can stimulate a secondary spike to develop and produce more flowers extending your blooming time even longer. If phals are in a happy environment they can bloom for months.  Enjoy!&lt;/blockquote&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have <strong>3 Orchids </strong>that have stopped flowering. I have re-potted them in a ready orchid mix, in clear pots, &#038; placed them near a brightly lit window. Is there anything else I should do? When should I resume feeding the plants? (They are all <strong>Phals</strong>) A 4th Orchid has repeatedly bloomed without repotting or anything special, &#038; the creamy blooms are gorgeous &#038; large! So with the others, am at a bit of a loss as they have no new spikes, but healthy leaves &#038; roots.<br />
Thanks!</p>
<blockquote><p>Hi Ray<br />
Sounds like you&#8217;re doing great!  Make sure your phals are not in direct sun or it will scald the leaves.  You should feed your orchids on a regular basis since the potting media has little nutrients.  Use an orchid fertilizer or  balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at half strength every two weeks or (weakly, weekly=1/4 strength). I fertilize more in the summer growing season.   Repotting should be done after bloom or in the spring.  I wouldn&#8217;t worry about new flower spikes just yet, as long as your phalaenopsis have new healthy leaves and roots, they&#8217;re doing fine.  Normally, cool fall nights (55F) will encourage the plant to initiate new spikes.<br />
Now, here&#8217;s a plant tip about the flower spike.  When the last flower falls off and the plant is done blooming, cut the spike at the first or second node.  This can stimulate a secondary spike to develop and produce more flowers extending your blooming time even longer. If phals are in a happy environment they can bloom for months.  Enjoy!</p></blockquote>
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		<title>By: Drenda</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-3632</link>
		<dc:creator>Drenda</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Apr 2008 20:58:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-3632</guid>
		<description>2007-
Drenda 
I have a &lt;strong&gt;Pigmy Date Palm &lt;/strong&gt;and the cold has burnt the branches. Do I trim the branches all the way back to the trunk and if so when should I trim them back?

&lt;blockquote&gt;Because browning foliage can translocate nutrients to younger leaves, remove the branches when they are dead (brown) and trim them close to the stem. You can trim off the brown tips if the plant looks unsightly

 &lt;/blockquote&gt;
I want you to know I really appreciate your website. You are a lot of help. I have 2 &lt;strong&gt;Pigmy Date Palms &lt;/strong&gt;and the frost caused the branches to turn brown and die. I fertilized the trees in March. They are starting to get new branches and I can see more new growth in the middle of the trees but they are coming out very slow and some of them have brown spots. Is this normal for these trees. When should I fertilize again? Again thank you for your help.

&lt;blockquote&gt;Hi Drenda
&lt;strong&gt;Pigmy date palms &lt;/strong&gt;are slow growers. Aside from insect infestation and diseases, palms can have several nutritional deficiencies (lack of K, Mn, Fe, Mg, N and B)in which some can exhibit brown spots. At any rate, fertilize the trees with a palm tree fertilizer 3 times a year- starting in April, June and finishing in August. It should take care of any nutrient deficiencies.&lt;/blockquote&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>2007-<br />
Drenda<br />
I have a <strong>Pigmy Date Palm </strong>and the cold has burnt the branches. Do I trim the branches all the way back to the trunk and if so when should I trim them back?</p>
<blockquote><p>Because browning foliage can translocate nutrients to younger leaves, remove the branches when they are dead (brown) and trim them close to the stem. You can trim off the brown tips if the plant looks unsightly</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I want you to know I really appreciate your website. You are a lot of help. I have 2 <strong>Pigmy Date Palms </strong>and the frost caused the branches to turn brown and die. I fertilized the trees in March. They are starting to get new branches and I can see more new growth in the middle of the trees but they are coming out very slow and some of them have brown spots. Is this normal for these trees. When should I fertilize again? Again thank you for your help.</p>
<blockquote><p>Hi Drenda<br />
<strong>Pigmy date palms </strong>are slow growers. Aside from insect infestation and diseases, palms can have several nutritional deficiencies (lack of K, Mn, Fe, Mg, N and B)in which some can exhibit brown spots. At any rate, fertilize the trees with a palm tree fertilizer 3 times a year- starting in April, June and finishing in August. It should take care of any nutrient deficiencies.</p></blockquote>
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		<title>By: Anne Chrisman</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-3460</link>
		<dc:creator>Anne Chrisman</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jan 2008 23:01:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-3460</guid>
		<description>I received an&lt;strong&gt; arbicola &lt;/strong&gt;about a month ago.  Every day it droops more &amp; leaves fall off, some are turning brown.  What can I do to bring it back to life?

&lt;blockquote&gt;Your &lt;strong&gt;arboricola &lt;/strong&gt;(&lt;em&gt;Schefflera arboricola, Umbrella Tree&lt;/em&gt;) is adjusting to the drastic change in environment.  It is a tropical plant that is used to bright light and high humidty.  Now is it in lower light and dry air causing the  browning and leaf drop.  It is adjusting to its new environment.  Increase the humidity by using a humidifier or place the plant on a moist pebble tray.  Also try to increase the light exposure.  It should perk up and send out new growth in the spring. &lt;/blockquote&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I received an<strong> arbicola </strong>about a month ago.  Every day it droops more &#038; leaves fall off, some are turning brown.  What can I do to bring it back to life?</p>
<blockquote><p>Your <strong>arboricola </strong>(<em>Schefflera arboricola, Umbrella Tree</em>) is adjusting to the drastic change in environment.  It is a tropical plant that is used to bright light and high humidty.  Now is it in lower light and dry air causing the  browning and leaf drop.  It is adjusting to its new environment.  Increase the humidity by using a humidifier or place the plant on a moist pebble tray.  Also try to increase the light exposure.  It should perk up and send out new growth in the spring. </p></blockquote>
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		<title>By: Michelle Godin</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-3431</link>
		<dc:creator>Michelle Godin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jan 2008 16:00:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-3431</guid>
		<description>
what type of soil should an &lt;strong&gt;anthurium&lt;/strong&gt; be planted in? I&#039;ve got mine in orchid mix and it doesn&#039;t seem to be doing well.

&lt;blockquote&gt;There are different types of orchid mix, this one should have extra spagnum moss w/charcoal added or a well-drained peaty soil is recommended. The soil should be kepts moist but not soggy at all times. They do like bright light, high humidity and warm temperatures(no lower than 60 during the day) to flower&lt;/blockquote&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>what type of soil should an <strong>anthurium</strong> be planted in? I&#8217;ve got mine in orchid mix and it doesn&#8217;t seem to be doing well.</p>
<blockquote><p>There are different types of orchid mix, this one should have extra spagnum moss w/charcoal added or a well-drained peaty soil is recommended. The soil should be kepts moist but not soggy at all times. They do like bright light, high humidity and warm temperatures(no lower than 60 during the day) to flower</p></blockquote>
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		<title>By: Jeannie</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-3430</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeannie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jan 2008 15:58:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-3430</guid>
		<description>I transplanted an &lt;strong&gt;anthurium&lt;/strong&gt; into a pot twice the size.  I put the pot outdoors in the summer all the leaves turned brown i cut them off and took it indoors. It is taking a very long time to grow and does not flower.  What  did i do wrong?

&lt;blockquote&gt;When transplanting use a pot that is 1inch larger than the current pot-too large of  a pot can lead to all kinds of potential problems, water-log, root rot.  Furthermore, &lt;strong&gt;anthurium &lt;/strong&gt;will bloom when they are potbound so be patient and they will eventually bloom again.&lt;/blockquote&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I transplanted an <strong>anthurium</strong> into a pot twice the size.  I put the pot outdoors in the summer all the leaves turned brown i cut them off and took it indoors. It is taking a very long time to grow and does not flower.  What  did i do wrong?</p>
<blockquote><p>When transplanting use a pot that is 1inch larger than the current pot-too large of  a pot can lead to all kinds of potential problems, water-log, root rot.  Furthermore, <strong>anthurium </strong>will bloom when they are potbound so be patient and they will eventually bloom again.</p></blockquote>
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		<title>By: Nancy Newell</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-2873</link>
		<dc:creator>Nancy Newell</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Apr 2007 20:14:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-2873</guid>
		<description>Could you tell me the night time temperatures the following plants are able to be allowed to remain outdoors in the summer ??

pointsetta
mandevilla
colius
shamrock
and any type of hard green leaf plants from the indoors ??
thanks for the help.. enjoy this site very much

&lt;blockquote&gt;Hi Nancy,
The mandevilla, pointsettia and tropical houseplants will tolerate night temperatures in the high 40&#039;s-50, Coleus and shamrock can stand temps up to 40. Prolongated periods of cold temperatures will affect the plants.&lt;/blockquote&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Could you tell me the night time temperatures the following plants are able to be allowed to remain outdoors in the summer ??</p>
<p>pointsetta<br />
mandevilla<br />
colius<br />
shamrock<br />
and any type of hard green leaf plants from the indoors ??<br />
thanks for the help.. enjoy this site very much</p>
<blockquote><p>Hi Nancy,<br />
The mandevilla, pointsettia and tropical houseplants will tolerate night temperatures in the high 40&#8217;s-50, Coleus and shamrock can stand temps up to 40. Prolongated periods of cold temperatures will affect the plants.</p></blockquote>
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		<title>By: Sandy Krauser</title>
		<link>http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1#comment-2872</link>
		<dc:creator>Sandy Krauser</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Apr 2007 20:11:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hortchat.com/info/houseplants-spring-cleaning#comment-2872</guid>
		<description>  
Hi Kris-enjoy your website! I live in OH zone 5 and my &lt;strong&gt;Queensland Umbrella plant &lt;/strong&gt;is full of tiny little ants. Help!! I had it outside during the summer and just now noticed them, they are mostly in the tray-how do I get rid of them w/out harming the plant. Thanks-Sandy Krausher

&lt;blockquote&gt;Seems like the ant have found a home in your plant. You can do one of two things: 1) repot the plant and remove the soil with the ants. 2) use an insecticidal soil drench and soak the soil to eliminate the ants. Keep the plant on the dry side, the ants like it moist. When purchasing the soil drench be sure it is registered for indoor plants and safe to use indoors&lt;/blockquote&gt;.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Kris-enjoy your website! I live in OH zone 5 and my <strong>Queensland Umbrella plant </strong>is full of tiny little ants. Help!! I had it outside during the summer and just now noticed them, they are mostly in the tray-how do I get rid of them w/out harming the plant. Thanks-Sandy Krausher</p>
<blockquote><p>Seems like the ant have found a home in your plant. You can do one of two things: 1) repot the plant and remove the soil with the ants. 2) use an insecticidal soil drench and soak the soil to eliminate the ants. Keep the plant on the dry side, the ants like it moist. When purchasing the soil drench be sure it is registered for indoor plants and safe to use indoors</p></blockquote>
<p>.</p>
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