December 16, 2020 · Garden Review / Mandevilla / TROPICAL PLANTS

Mandevilla

Mandevilla care and tips

Mandevilla belongs to a large family that also includes plants that were formerly known as Dipladenia. It was named after a British diplomat/gardener Henry Mandeville. This exotic plant bears trumpet shaped flowers in shades of pink, yellow and white (some fragrant) on twining vines with puckered, oval leaves.

mandevilla

This tropical plant is hardy (depending on cultivars) in zones 9-11 and is for the most part of the U.S. treated as a houseplant. It is grown outdoors for the summer and in colder regions taken indoors to endure the winter.

Care
Outdoors:

Mandevilla is cold sensitive and can be taken outdoors after the danger of frost has passed and night time temperatures are over 50ºF. It prefers full sun to part shade in the summer and a deep rich, well-drained soil.

It will also need a trellis to support its long trailing vines. Provide plenty of water during the hot days of summer. To keep a healthy blooming plant, feed it every other week with a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) in the spring and summer. In order to maintain the tangled growth during the season, pinch off new shoot tips which will produce a bushier plant. Trimming will not reduce flowering as it blooms on new growth.

Propagation
Mandevilla can be started from seed at temperatures of 70-80ºF. A faster way is to take cuttings in the spring and summer which will root and develop new plants. More info on how to Propagate Mandevilla.

Watch out for mealybugs, scales, whitefllies and red spider mites.

More info on Winterover mandevilla

 

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From the reader archive

Useful reader questions

Virus? So glad I found this site, have a problem no one has mentioned. This is my third year with previously beautiful, flourishing pink Mandevillas that grew up the sides of the porch and even across the top, making a beautiful, tropical…

Read Judie Blanke discussion

Hi and thank you for your speedy reply–awesome. The only thing is where we are, it will not get to be in the 50’s at night until mid June anyway and gets cold in September. What should I do for the interim?…

Read Tina Gale discussion

*Mandevilla care tips I have 18 plants-most from cuttings. Here’s what I’ve done every year and, so far it works. Do this BEFORE the night time temps get below 40. Prepare for winter 1)a WEEK before you are planning to move it…

Read lynn discussion

Spider mites Can spider mites kill or harm my plant? How often/long should I treat the plant for? Since its indoor how often should I water? You have been very helpful. Hope you and your family have a safe and enjoyable holidays.…

Read Jen discussion

186 Comments

  1. Christa - November 14, 2005 at 1:37 pm

    Whitefly
    What are the white, flying bugs that look kind of like aphids? Are they aphids and how do I get rid of them? Also, what kind of damage do they do to Mandevillas? Thank you, Christa

    If they fly when the plant is disturbed then it sounds like white fly. They can be difficult to control. Use insecticidal soap spray and be sure to spray the underside of the leaves as that’s where they lay their eggs. To control spray every 5-7 days for about 2 weeks. It should take care of the adults and hatching eggs. If insecticidal soap doesn’t do the job try a pyrethroid type insecticide and follow manufacturers direction as to its use.

    Reply
  2. Diane Alcorn - March 12, 2006 at 4:47 pm

    Yellow leaf drop
    Regarding the Mandevilla – I live in Dana Point, California right on the coast. It’s temperate here and never drops below 50 degrees. Still, my plant leaves are getting sparse and yellow. What should I do?

    Some of the reason for yellowing leaves & leaf drop is the possibility of winter dormancy-the cooler outdoor temperatures,shorter days will stop growth causing seasonal shedding. By this time of year it should show signs of new growth. Drought stress and underfertilization can also cause yellowing/leaf drop. Also check for insects and webbing on the plant, which is a sign a spider mites infestation. At this point I would trim back the plant, wait for signs of new green growth and then fertilize.

    Reply
  3. dawn - April 24, 2006 at 2:24 pm

    I know this is going to strike you as funny but my husband has a goat that keeps eating the ends of my mandevilla vine. what can I do to stop this? (short of shooting the goat)

    I read about a new Australian research that produced a product from tiger feces which is effective on wild goats, if you can stand the smell. I don’t know if the product is out on the market yet. My suggestion would be to try a product called Liquid fence-it seems to work for deer and other small animals. It also has an unpleasant smell. You can also try a hot spray mix: use 2-3 cloves garlic, 3-4 hot red peppers (Habaneras, serrano) grind up in a blender and mix in a gallon of water along with a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Spray on the tips and see if the goat stays away. Goats seem to eat everything so they just might like the spicy mix.

    Reply
  4. ann connor - June 13, 2006 at 4:49 am

    Ants on plant
    My mandevilla has tiny ants all over the leaves and the blooms and also yellow stuff, kind of looks like very tiny eggs.

    It may be possible that they are aphids instead of eggs. Ants are attracted to aphids because of the honeydew they secrete.

    Reply
  5. Sherry - August 21, 2006 at 10:32 pm

    I also have mandevillas that are turning brown and dying. I have already lost two this summer and two more that are dying. The leaves turn brown mostly on the tips and outer edges first then move to the whole leaf. Some of the flower buds also turn brown. They also have long shoots with no leaves or flowers. They have done well in past years.

    If the weather has been hot in your area brown edges on the leaves can be caused by hot,dry air, or sun scorch. In additon browning leaves can be an indicator of underwatering especially if the mandevillas are growing in a container. Hot weather will require watering for as much 3 times a week to to keep the plant from drying out . Be sure to water enough and let the water drain out-don’t allow your plant to sit in water or you will have other problems (root rot). You may also want to give it a dose of fertilizer (8-12-12) to boost it up for the upcoming winter. Brown leaves can also be pest or disease related.

    Reply
  6. A.E.Bentley - October 12, 2006 at 2:20 am

    I am trying to find some photos of a Mandevilla. We have a vine with large red flowers and have been told it is a Mandevilla but the only info I can find tells me the Mandevilla is pink or white. Please help

    There is a cultivar of Mandevilla sanderi ( syn. Dipladenia sanderi ) called Scarlet Pimpernel that produces red flowers. The foliage is a smooth, glossy green color.

    Reply
  7. Paul Gardner - February 18, 2007 at 5:52 pm

    speed up flowering
    I have a question on flowering of the mandevilla. This is my third year with the plant, I have done everything that you suggested when it comes to winter storage and fertilizing. I live in Ontario, Canada and wanted to know if there is any way to speed up the flowering. I know the flowers come from the heat. It seems like my flowers really on come in August-September I was wondering is there any way to get flowering going earlier… say late June?
    Thanks Paul

    Because Mandevillas bloom on new growth, they need to put on good healthy growth early in the season in order to initiate blooming. Janet Carson Extension adviser suggests that some Mandevilla are slow to start when they are rootbound from last years growth. You may need to replant it into a larger container or at least replace half of the existing soil and trim back the roots. In addition, cut back the plant by 1/3-1/2 in Feb/March which will stimulate new healthy growth fit for blooming. Keep in mind weak, stindly growth will produce less flowers. Provide full sun and fertilze like you have been. Hopefully, this will jumpstart to an earlier bloom.

    Reply
  8. Renee Barry - April 26, 2007 at 2:11 pm

    Epsom salt
    I had inquired about a beautiful Mandevillea and was told that Epson salt was scratched in the soil that made it look so pretty. I was wondering if you heard anything about this trick?

    The use of epsom salt is an old time trick used on many blooming plants (roses). It contains magnesium and sulfur, two micronutrients essential for flowering plants. Plants that lack magnesium will develop curling, yellow leaves with green veins and stunted growth and sulfur lowers the soil ph. If your soil is lacking these elements then it can be of some use but if you fertilize you plants with a well balanced fertilizer that includes these micronutrients then chances are the plant is getting what it needs. According to Epsom salt council.org it “helps seeds germinate , makes plants grow bushier, produces more flowers, increases chlorophyll production and improves phosphorus and nitrogen uptake .” You might want to try it and see if it makes a difference.

    Reply
  9. Joel Studebkaer - July 20, 2007 at 5:30 pm

    Not blooming
    We received a mandevilla last summer, put it in the ground at our NJ home, and watched it bloom prolifically. We brought it inside in the fall, and it sent up new shoots about February. After the last frost, we moved it to the same outdoor spot it was in last year. Though it has grown well since then, it hasn’t bloomed. Please advise. JS

    Have you been fertilizing the plant? During the growing season you should feed it with a 10-20-10 (high phosphorous)fertilizer every two weeks. If it gets too much nitrogen (1st #) then it will produce lots of leaves and no flowers.

    Jeanette Johnson
    My mandevilla appears to be growing healthy and happy. I have it in a sunny location, out doors. I am feeding it a liquid feed three times per week, Miracle Grow All Purpose 24-8-16. I am getting no flowers. How come?

    You are feeding it too much nitrogen (first #) therefore you are getting leaves and no flowers. Try a bloom boost or a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) every two weeks.

    Reply
  10. Steve Riva - January 21, 2008 at 5:48 pm

    I live in Santa Monica, CA. I would like to plant Mandevilla on a trellis that is 15 feet high. It gets partial afternoon sun on the west side of the house. Will they survive in these conditions. How many plants need to cover fifteen feet spread? All the best. Steve

    Hi Steve
    Partial shade is great for Mandevilla. Be sure it has rich, well-drained, composted soil. They grow to 20+ feet high and depending on the variety Mandevilla spread 3-5 ft wide. You can pinch the plant to promote bushiness and get a wider spread. If all goes well, plan on spacing them 36-60 inches, therefore 3-5 plants should fill in your trellis.

    Reply
  11. Jen - January 24, 2008 at 4:23 pm

    Spider mites
    Can spider mites kill or harm my plant? How often/long should I treat the plant for? Since its indoor how often should I water? You have been very helpful. Hope you and your family have a safe and enjoyable holidays.

    Some of the symptoms for spider mite infestation are tiny dots or stippling that causes a bronze, grayish mottled look. Eventually the leaves will start to turn yellow/brown along the veins and drop. In severe infections you will also see webbing on the plant. To be sure you have spider mites, take a white sheet of paper, place it on the underside side of the leaves and tap on the leaf. If you see tiny pindots moving on the paper, then you have spider mites. Isolate your plant from any others because they spread easily. To control the infestation, spray the plant with insecticidal soap every 3-5 days for two weeks. Be sure throughly spray the plant getting the underside of the leaves. If insecticidal soap does not do the trick try Neem oil. Spider mites love the hot, dry environment that is indoors during the winter. Water your mandevilla just enough to keep it from wilting-keeping it on the dry side and mist it to increase the humidity. If the infestation gets out of control, cut back the plant, place it in a cool(garage) place and let it go dormant for the winter.

    Reply
  12. Donna castellani - January 24, 2008 at 4:56 pm

    Leaf spot disease
    I have brown spots on my mandevilla vine leaf especially near the veining. What is this and what do I do?

    There are two types of leaf spots diseases caused by either bacteria or fungus that can occur during the warm, wet summer months 1. Corynesporo Cassicola 2. Cereospera. The disease spreads quickly on wet foliage. Cercospora begins with small purple spots which enlarge and develop dried tan areas in the center showing an overall brown spot. The leaves turn yellow with the spots and fall off after a few days. The best control is to avoid overhead watering, sanitation – remove any infected leaves and spray with a fungicide (Zyban) . Follow label directions. This site has some photos of the diseases. http://www.velvetmandevilla.com/diseases_of_mandevilla.htm

    Reply
  13. Ruth Cohan - April 10, 2008 at 10:25 am

    Tubers
    I live in Savannah GA & did not bring my Mandevilla in for the winter. When I dug it out of its planter, it had many healthy looking tuberous roots. Can I replant the root/tubers and expect them to grow? How long to maturity?

    If the tuber is alive and is producing healthy roots it should start growing when temperatures are above 50F. Scratch the surface of the tuber to see if it’s green, that should give you an indication that it’s alive. It should send out new shoots by May or sooner and bloom this summer on the new growth.

    Reply
  14. Joan - June 13, 2008 at 10:12 am

    I purchased a hanging potted mandevilla…then discovered it will climb…can I place it near a trellis or what works best for Midwest weather?

    Since it is in a hanging pot, let it grow just like any other hanging plant. If it gets too long just trim it and it should send out side shoots making it bushier. Mandevilla that are not in a hanging pot can be grown on a trellis.

    Reply
  15. Peggy Allen - July 1, 2008 at 3:52 pm

    Start from tubers
    Is it possible to start a mandevilla from the tubers of an older plant? Just the tubers, not the whole root.

    Hi Peggy
    There some conflicting information about starting the plant from a tuber. If the tuber is green underneath the skin and has at least 2 “eyes” , it is worth a try. If you can get a bit of root (hairlike strands) with your tuber for better sucess. Keep the pot warm and moist. I repotted a small tuber from the mother plant that had a sprout on it and a few roots and now have a new plant.

    Reply
  16. Sheryl - July 25, 2008 at 2:43 pm

    Slow to bloom
    I pulled up my Mandevilla this spring thinking it was dead but discovered a sprout from one of the fleshy roots so I replanted it into a large pot. It finally recovered from the shock and has lots of leaves/vines but no blooms. It bloomed into the fall last year. Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Sheryl (south Louisiana)

    Hi Sheryl
    Since your mandevilla is off to a slow start and needs to put on a few feet of growth before it starts to initiate bloom. You don’t mention fertilizer- a 10-20-10 would help flowering. Hopefully, it will start to bloom soon.

    Reply
  17. SUE B - September 4, 2008 at 8:26 am

    I have a pot of Mandevillas that have bloomed. My question is does the Mandevilla come with the trumpet type flower as seen on most sites and also a double or rose type bloom? Mine has both on the same plant. The double one almost looks like a carnation with large petals around it. Is this normal?

    Hi Sue
    It may be that you have both single and double types planted in one pot. There are new cultivars such as Tango Twirl or Rita Marie Green that produce double rose-like flowers.

    Reply
  18. John Skinner - December 12, 2008 at 4:59 pm

    Pruning Mandevilla
    I live in Clearwater, FL and want to cut back my potted mandevilla vine to rejuvenate new growth. How far back is recommended? Should it be to the old growth? I would like to get flowers throughout, not only on the tips.

    Hi John
    Best time to prune is in Oct or after bloom. At this time of year (Dec.) wait till early spring before new growth begins to cut your mandevilla back. Don’t cut back more than 1/2 of the plant up to the hard wood. Because mandevilla blooms on last year’s growth, you want to leave some current season’s growth so that they bloom next year.

    Reply
  19. Lynelle Lawrence - January 22, 2009 at 7:23 pm

    Cold damage
    I live in Orlando, FL and have multiple gorgeous mandevilla plants growing over the fence around my back yard. We recently had several very cold nights, including a hard frost, and all my mandevilla have turned completely brown. Are they dead? Will they come back? Do I cut them back to the base of the plants?

    Hi Lynelle
    Wait till spring before trimming anything. Mandevilla leaves will turn brown and drop from cold temperatures, but as long as the roots are healthy, it should send out new growth in spring. You can then determine what stems died and need to be pruned out. Make sure the roots have some protection from the cold. A 1-2 inch organic mulch help. Also, if you hear that a cold spell is eminent, throw a blanket over the vine (if possible).

    Reply
  20. June - February 22, 2009 at 10:07 am

    I have aphids on my Mandevilla plant that I have in my kitchen for winter storage. I want to get rid of the aphids without spraying a chemical in my house . Is there anything that will treat them by adding to the pot of soil it is planted in. It’s a huge vine and praying it would be difficult inside my home. This happened to my mandevilla last year inside the house and it lost every leaf. I put Rosebush insect treatment in the soil and it didn’t work, then I bought an indoor aphid spray and sprayed the few leaves and the vine . It suffered so much I cut it back . It grew when put out in the spring but never bloomed. Now what can I do. It was doing so good inside until now.
    What can I do? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Try the home remedy with pepper spray in our Aphid article or just an old fashioned water spray in a bathtub would help.In order to treat aphid at different stages of development, they require several treatments.

    My mandevilla has tiny ants all over the leaves and the blooms and also yellow stuff, kind of looks like very tiny eggs.

    It may be possible that they are aphids instead of eggs. Ants are attracted to aphids because of the honeydew they secrete.

    Reply
  21. Lynn - March 8, 2009 at 10:27 am

    Pruning mandevilla
    Hello, I purchased three Mandevilla plants through ebay. They arrived last week in great shape and in the bare root form. I planted them in 100% very well seasoned compost. They are about 2 to 3 feet tall. They are doing pretty well. Lost a few leaves but other wise OK. My question is. Can I cut them back to make them bushier or will that be too hard on them? If not then when? We live in St. Louis. I do not expect to set them out for another 60 days. Will I have to harden them off at that time? Do I harden them off just like a young perennial or annual seedling? Best regards

    Hi Lynn
    If your mandevilla is vigorously growing then you can cut it back to get fuller, bushier growth. By trimming the foliage, it will give the roots more time to develop (less top growth to maintain). You can trim it now or wait till you’re ready to take it outside. Set your mandevilla outdoors when night temps are in the 50’sF. You can harden it off just like perennials. Start by placing it in a protected shaded area for a week and then slowly increase the amount of sun exposure. If you set it out in direct sun, you can “fry” the leaves.

    Reply
  22. Tab - March 9, 2009 at 8:45 am

    i was just wondering if there is a specific bird or butterfly that like the Mandevilla?

    The tubular flowers will attract hummingbirds.

    Reply
  23. Tina Gale - April 11, 2009 at 6:45 pm

    Hi. I seem to have had bad luck with these plants. I’m on my third new one and the leaves become mottled, turn yellow, then brown until they dry up and fall off (along with the buds). It looks awful and may not make it. I do try to keep it in the sunnier room but not direct. I try to watch it does not dry out but wondering if the soil needs replacing even though it has been here for a month so chances are it is me, not the soil. I’ve tried a mild fertilizer. They are expensive to buy here and wondering what I am doing wrong. I live in northern Ontario, Canada. Thank you so much in advance.

    Reply
  24. Tina Gale - April 11, 2009 at 6:53 pm

    Hi and thank you for your speedy reply–awesome. The only thing is where we are, it will not get to be in the 50’s at night until mid June anyway and gets cold in September. What should I do for the interim? Also, I noticed that the plant has a double container–the one in which the plant is in has drainage holes and the other outer one has no holes, so I’m wondering if the plant is sitting in water and is suffering root rot. If I water it just a bit when needed–the soil will be hard, hard on top, but the soil at the bottom is wet. This is why I was thinking it needed to have new soil that is “dry” to absorb any excess moisture and top dress it with new soil. Is it OK to leave it in that type of pot being that it should not sit in water? (sorry for all the q’s–just frustrated as I’m pretty good with plants) Thanks again.:)

    HI Tina
    Put your mandevilla outside on a warm sunny day so that it can acclimated to brighter light and then take it in when temperatures get below 50. This will give them a chance to gradually adjust to the outdoors which they will prefer in summer. You do need to have good drainage, so if there is a possibility that the roots are sitting in water, you will have to change the container or provide drainage. If you suspect root rot, or bad soil, take the plant out of the container and repot it in fresh soil before it goes outside. When repotting, check the roots-if they are healthy, they should be a creamy color. When you water, give your mandevilla plenty of water-till it drains from the bottom of the container. It’s best to a lot water less often than often with little water.

    Reply
  25. donald hunter - April 20, 2009 at 11:28 am

    have a pair of white mandevilla planted outside on trellis in 2/09. both were flourishing until about 3 weeks ago. one continues to look great. other has wilted leaves and some dead shoots. replanted wilted one 2 weeks ago thinking it might be getting water trapped at roots. gave it some fertilizer. do not see any signs of insects. wilted one looks same except more dead leaves, shoots, etc. what would you suggest as next step?

    Hi Donald
    Forget the fertilizer at this time. Your wilted plant may have some root damage. The roots cannot take up enough water to feed the leaves and that’s why they are wilted. Hopefully, your mandevilla is replanted in well-drained soil. Let the plant dry slightly before watering again. Cut back any dead foliage. You can try adding a root stimulant to help the roots recover.

    Reply
  26. Erin - April 22, 2009 at 10:26 pm

    I just purchased two Mandevilla plants to brighten-up the sunny area in front of my brickfront townhouse. I saw the plant flourish last summer nearby and fell in love. Unfortunately, I didn’t do much research before buying it and need help. I currently have it outside (4/23/09) and am concerned about temp. I’m not sure if the commercial brand potting soil is right for this plant. I’m hoping to get advice on whether these plants should be out yet, how I should treat the soil, and how I can maintain them throughout the spring and summer months.

    Hi Erin
    Mandevilla is cold sensitive and can be taken outdoors when the danger of frost has passed and overnight temperatures reach over 50ºF. It likes full sun to part shade in the summer and a deep rich, well-drained soil. It will also need a trellis to support its long trailing vines. Provide plenty of water during the hot days of summer. To keep a healthy blooming plant, feed it every other week with a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) in the spring and summer.

    Reply
  27. lynn - April 26, 2009 at 6:10 am

    *Mandevilla care tips
    I have 18 plants-most from cuttings.
    Here’s what I’ve done every year and, so far it works. Do this BEFORE the night time temps get below 40.
    Prepare for winter
    1)a WEEK before you are planning to move it inside, feed it well. The plan is to get it strong for the winter hibernation. WATER IT WELL THE DAY BEFORE OR MORNING OF YOUR PLANNED REMOVAL.
    2)on the day of removal, cut it back to about 1 – 1 1/2 feet from the soil with one good chop. Clean up the severed vines and discard.
    3)press your shovel ALL THE WAY TO THE GROUND in a circle around the plant about 6 inches from growth. Gently lift the plant out and place it in a pot that will hold it for the Winter.
    3)give it some water but not enough to run out of the pot.
    4)place the whole thing in a clear plastic trash bag and put it in a place that will not get below 40 degrees in the winter. A heated garage, a basement or a cool room. Tie the bag closed so that it will stay humid and dry out very slowly allowing the plant to adjust slowly. Here’s something that I do: once I put the plant in the bag, I give the plant a quick, LIGHT shot of all-purpose bug killer and then I tie the bag up. It seems to kill off anything that thinks it might hang out on the plant for the winter.
    5)now, forget about it until Spring.

    SPRING:
    Remove 2 shovels full of soil from the spot where you plan to put your Mandevilla. Fill in the spot with 2 shovels full of organic matter (compost) and sir it up and over very well. This will give the plant a happy home for the season. Remember to keep about half of the soil that is on the roots in the pot when transplanting.

    when the night temps are 40 or higher (in New Jersey I wait until April 20th)I move them outside, discard the plastic bag and water JUST A LITTLE. Because it hasn’t been in the sun for a few months, the leaves will burn. That’s normal. It WILL look dead and will lose any leaves that sprouted. This is normal. Just clean it up and know that this is the way the plant adjusts to the sun. Water it gently a few times until you are ready to put it in the ground. May 1st is when I plant mine.
    Before storing your containers for the summer, remember to wash them out with bleach and a mild dish detergent to kill off anything that’s not supposed to be there.
    Fertilize weekly with a weak solution of all purpose food.
    ENJOY FOR THE ENTIRE SUMMER!!

    Thanks for the insightful comment!

    Reply
  28. MILDA - April 27, 2009 at 8:03 pm

    I HAVE A MANDEVILLA PLANT I HAD LAST SUMMER. I TOOK IT IN FOR THE WINTER. KNOW THE DIRT LEVEL HAS DROPPED ABOUT 6 INCHES BELOW THE POT. HOW DO I TREAT THIS CONDITION?

    HI Milda
    The soil will compact from lack of moisture during the winter. The organic material in the soil breaks down and compacts making the air spaces disappear. So when you water the plant, it will quickly run out of the side of the pot or puddle on top of the soil and not go to where it should -the roots. It would be best replant your mandevilla in fresh soil. The other option is to mix fresh soil with the old soil for better drainage and added nutrients. Potting medium is good for 1-2 years.

    Reply
  29. Rhonda Adams - May 11, 2009 at 7:31 pm

    Poisonous
    Are mandevilla vines or plants poisonous to dogs?

    Hi Rhonda
    University of North Carolina suspects all parts to be poisonous. (www.ces.ncsu.edu) The milky latex can also be a skin irritant.

    Reply
  30. whitney - May 13, 2009 at 8:53 am

    I bought 4 mandavilla’s for my porch, the containers they came in did not have any drainage holes so they held alot of water, 3 of the plants leaves turned brown only 1 new shoot on each how can I save my plant? No new leaf growth either.

    Hi Whitney
    First of all make sure there are drainage holes in the pot. The plants are dying because the roots are getting water logged and rotting, therefore there’s little new growth. I would repot in fresh well-drained soil to give the roots a chance to regrow.

    Reply
  31. Diane - May 25, 2009 at 8:18 am

    I bought my Mandevilla on clearance and it only had one flower on it. Since then I have repotted it and fertilized it but still no flowers. The leaves are growing with new stems, however I don’t see any signs of flower buds. Did I buy a lemon?

    HI Diane
    The plant has to put on some growth before it starts to bloom again. It may just be slow to start and will eventually bloom. Be careful not to feed it too much nitrogen fertilizer (first #) as that will give you lots of leaves and no flowers. For best bloom place it in full sun.

    Reply
  32. Polly - May 31, 2009 at 7:33 am

    Pruning Mandevilla
    I live in Houston, TX and have two mandevillas in my back yard, shaded with 30 – 40 ft magnolia and live oaks. These plants had taken over the back yard and were climbing all over the trees. Two years ago, I decided to have them cut to the ground (taking part of the magnolia and live oaks with them). They are growing back fine. I’m training them to follow my fence, rather than climb the trees. So far they have not bloomed. Do they need full sun to bloom or is it just a matter of time? They get more sun now that the trees had to be trimmed. Also, what is the best time to trim these? They are very hardy and have lived through all our winters. I would love some flowers, but need to control their growth some. Thank you.

    Hi Polly
    Early spring is a good time to prune mandevilla. Once you cut them back it’s a matter of time for them to start blooming. Mandevilla needs to put on about a foot or more of new growth to start blooming. Full sun should help produce more flowers.

    Reply
  33. Lois - May 31, 2009 at 12:56 pm

    Deer resistant
    I just bought 2 mandevilla plants and want to put them outside for the summer. Do deer eat mandevilla?

    Hi Lois
    No, mandevilla doesn’t seem to be a favorite dish for deer. So it should be safe-but as I always say, if they are hungry enough, they will eat anything.

    Reply
  34. David - June 27, 2009 at 12:18 pm

    Adding on to my post, we were looking for the 10-20-10 combo for plant food but the best we have in our area that even comes close is 15-30-15 which is the same ratio just higher levels of each. We didn’t get it yet. The other option of course is Miracle Grow’s 20-20-20 all purpose. Thoughts

    Hi David
    The 20-20-20 is a well balanced fertilizer that works on most plants. The higher middle #(phosphorous) promotes more bloom. If your plant is healthy and growing 20-20-20 should do the trick. When you repot your mandevilla, it will not need any fertilizer as there should be enough nutrients in the soil esp. if it already contains fertilizer. Wait one month before applying any fertilizer.

    Reply
  35. julie - August 14, 2009 at 9:36 am

    Hello. I am new with Mandevilla. I live in Orlando and have three (2 red and one pink) that i purchased about 2-3 months ago. It has been amazingly hot here (over 95) and these poor guys are right in the blistering heat. I have sandy soil and have been making sure to water them more due to the intense (and unusual) heat. But all growth has stopped and the leaves are yellowing. In fact, the red ones seem to be shrinking. What can I do to save them?

    HI Julie
    Can you move your mandevilla to a shady area. If not provide some shade for them to keep the plants cooler. Your mandevilla, most likely stopped blooming because of the intense heat.

    Reply
  36. Jim - September 13, 2009 at 5:52 pm

    I was just reading over the comments on here and was really surprised by the number of people having problems with their mandevillas. Some observations: the pink is the strongest of the types – reds and whites don’t seem to be as vigorous. For two years I’ve grown mine on either side of the entrance to my front porch – eastern exposure – full sun until around noon. On one side there is a downspout from the rain gutters – that plant gets lots of water and, while it has good drainage, the ground stays wet – IT DOES GREAT! The other plant (while it still does well) is only about 1/2 to 2/3 the size – I try to keep it watered every few days. I don’t try to save mine when the cold weather comes here in North Carolina – they are cheap enough to replace each year. I think that since mine are never really stressed may be the reason I never have bug issues.

    I do have a question however – in a tropical setting without a dry season – do these plants flower 12 months a year?

    Hi Jim
    I’m not sure if mandevilla would bloom continually throughout the year. Most plants will bloom heavily at a certain time of year and then bloom less, (if at all) the rest of the season.

    Reply
  37. Jenny - November 24, 2009 at 5:11 am

    Spider mite problem
    I am following up to the message I sent in last night. I found webbing on my plant this morning; it wasn’t there before. I’m guessing spider mites. What is the best way to get rid of them and keep them from spreading to my other plants or coming back? I have placed this plant back outside for the time being since the temps are back in the 50’s here. Thanks again for your help!

    Hi Jenny
    Spider mites can be a problem when the plant is indoors and the air is dry.
    To test for spider mites, take a white sheet of paper, place it on the underside side of the leaves and tap on the leaf. If you see tiny pindots moving on the paper then you have spider mites.

    Reply
  38. Amanda - February 15, 2010 at 7:57 pm

    I puchased two mandavilles last summer and planted them in hanging pots. They both thrived all summer long. I brought them in for the winter and left them in their hanging pots in front of two windows so they would get plenty of sun. I watered them when the soil was dry and gave them plant food once a month. They died slowly but surly. They just dried up and no amount of water I gave them would help. I dont know what I did wrong… please help.

    Hi Amanda
    During the winter, when temperatures are cool and there is less sunlight, mandevilla require less water and no fertilizer. It’s difficult to say what happened to your plants. Perhaps your plants had too much of a good thing- water. Too much water will rot the roots and kill the plant.

    Reply
  39. Jerrica - May 12, 2010 at 9:44 am

    Watering mandevilla
    I just got a brand new Mandevilla for Mother’s day and I just had a question about over watering. I have never had one before so I dont want it to die. How much water is too much? I live in San Antonio so its very Humid and the dirt seems to dry out really fast at the end of the day. Should I water it more when it’s like that or just wait to water it the next day or even the next week? When you do water it, How much water should I put in the pot? I really like it and want to make sure I do everything to keep it alive. Thank you.

    Hi Jerrica
    You cannot water a plant on a schedule. Water more often when its hot and dry outdoors and less in a wet season. When the top 2 inches of soil are dry water the plant. Make sure you water thoroughly-that is pour enough water so that it drains from the bottom.

    Reply
  40. Julie - May 15, 2010 at 5:57 am

    My son just bought me a beautiful Mandevilla in a pot which has a small trellis. I live in Illinois, and wonder if I should leave in the pot, or when the temp. doesn’t get below 50 at night, transplant in the ground. I have had it inside right now, and the blooms are falling off, but I know it isn’t getting near enough sun. Any thought’s would be much appreciated! Thanks so much! I don’t want to kill it as it is such a beautiful gift from my son!

    Hi Julie
    You can place the plant outside during the day when temperatures are in the 60’s so that it gets more sun. You can leave the plant in the pot or transplant it in a larger container if necessary. If you choose to plant it in the ground, you will have to dig it up in the fall and keep it in a pot indoors. for more wintering info see http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

    Reply
  41. jean coursen - May 19, 2010 at 7:14 am

    Bud drop
    I just purchase a giant crimson mandevilla plant about 3′ high. It’s beautiful but all the new buds are dropping off. Why?

    Hi Jean
    Your plant is under some kind of stress-too much water, not enough water, light, too cold etc. The first response of a plant to unfavorable conditions is to drop its flowrs.

    Reply
  42. Taffy - May 31, 2010 at 11:39 am

    Reading this site has made me feel much more confident in caring for my expensive special mandevillas, as well as showing me where to buy things- glad I found this!- but also I was left with a question. All the info I have gathered through the years on flowering plants tells me that removing the seed pods before they mature encourages more flowering. Is this not true with Mandevillas? I would like to try the seed pods, but not at the expense of flowering beauty.

    Hi Taffy
    You are correct. Removing the seed pods will encourage more bloom. Wait closer to the end of the season to allow some seed pods to mature.

    Reply
  43. Trish - July 6, 2010 at 11:54 am

    spots on the flowers
    I just got a Mandevilla a couple weeks ago. I live in Oklahoma and have lots of clay in our soil. We have had some of the flowers fall off and also have white spots on the flowers. Is this because I am watering it too much? Our weather has been in the 90’s. Could it also be from the shock of replanting?

    Hi Trish
    Are you overhead watering the plant? moisture on the flower petals can cause spots on the flowers. Best to water at the soil line. Keep in mind mandevilla will not winterover outdoors in OK. you will have to dig it up and bring it indoors.

    Reply
  44. Kathy - July 9, 2010 at 8:25 am

    Insects
    I have three beautiful Mandevillas that I planted at the beach in 8in by four foot pots and added white fan trellises. They are doing beautiful but one now has little black somethings and some ants. I sprayed with a solution of dish soap and Dreft and water. I just love these plants. Thanks for all the information. Since they were expensive I will try to over winter them following the advice of the three day prep and then clear plastic bags. Next year I will put more in as they are just so cheerful,and beautiful. Again thanks for the advice!

    Hi Kathy
    It’s possible that your plant has scale. Check the underside and stems of the plant. Is there are clear, sticky stuff on the leaf surface? that is honeydew produced by certain insects including scale.
    For additional info on saving your Mandevilla see http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

    Reply
  45. Deborah Dalum - July 16, 2010 at 9:40 pm

    Trimming
    i purchased 2 mandevillas this past spring for my apartment patio. i inserted bamboo arches into each one and the vines really twisted around them. i want to take out the bamboo supports and let the plants “catch onto” the balcony railings. problem is, i would need to majorly trim them in order to untangled and remove the supports.
    is this a bad idea to do this now, in the middle of july? will it really affect them or harm them?

    Hi Deborah
    You can trim them or untangle your mandevilla. It will probably set the plant back a bit and delay blooming for a few weeks but will not harm the plant.

    Reply
  46. Linda - July 17, 2010 at 6:48 am

    Yellow leaves
    I have two pink mandevillas in large pots which were doing very well since the beginning of June and now, all of a sudden they have lots of yellowing leaves. The pots have good drainage but it has been extremely hot here in Illinois for the past two weeks. Can yellowing leaves be from the heat? The plants are on a rooftop deck and get sun most of the day.

    Hi Linda
    You don’t mention watering. Is it getting enough water during the hot spell? Yellow leaves are a response to stressful condition and the hot weather can be a major factor. If you can move the plant to a slightly shaded area until the weather cools.

    Reply
  47. Lisa - July 17, 2010 at 10:23 am

    Not blooming
    I purchased a Mandevilla vine about 6 weeks ago, great looking plant but no blooms when i bought it. I repotted in a hanging planter on my back patio, here in Central Florida. The plant looks great, very healthy and some new growth, but no blooms still!! Am i doing something wrong? It gets full sun. Thanks for help!

    Hi Lisa
    Because Mandevillas bloom on new growth, they need to put on good healthy growth in order to initiate blooming. Try a bloom boost or a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) every two weeks.

    Reply
  48. Cindy S. - July 22, 2010 at 10:09 am

    Leaf spot disease
    I have Mandevilla plants in large pots on each side of my spa on the pool decking. I have noticed the leaves yellowing with black spots. Do I have aphids or what could be causing this?

    Hi Cindy
    Its possible that your mandevilla has a leaf spot disease caused by a fungus (Cercospera). Leaves will turn yellow with brown/black spots and drop. This usually occurs during the warm and wet months of the summer and spreads when the leaves are wet overnight. Remove all infected leaves and spray with a fungicide to keep it from spreading. Avoid splashing water on the leaves as that can also help spread the disease.

    Reply
  49. Billie - July 25, 2010 at 11:18 am

    Overwatering
    I had three mandivillas, but now only two. They all seem to be doing the same thing. They were thriving before the hot temps (90-100). They are well watered, but they begin with yellow and browning leaves, and this seems to travel up the plant all the way to all of the new growth. Eventually, they die. They are all near a sprinkler. Could they be getting too much water?
    Thanks,
    Billie

    Hi Billie
    It sounds like too much water. Mandevilla leaves will turn yellow, then brown and drop off. Too much water will also cause root rot which will kill the plant. Let the plant dry between watering and move it away from the sprinkler. Hopefully, it will recover.

    Reply
  50. Mar - August 3, 2010 at 9:39 am

    We have 2 pink Mandavillas (2 years old) and both were healthy until 2 weeks ago. I live in Northern California- we noticed a “white dust subtance” on the leaves, eventually turning into tiny black dots with a sticky “tar like” subtance. It’s killing our leaves and flowers. Please help!

    Hi Mar
    You may have more than one problem on the plant. The white dust sounds like powdery mildew, the stick “tar like” substance may be honeydew with sooty mold on it-possibly caused by scale. Look under the leaves and on the stems to see if there are small bumps on the surface that can be scrapped off.

    Reply
  51. Larry - August 21, 2010 at 6:34 pm

    Propagate mandevilla tip
    To make cuttings I use “kys-cubes” which you may be able to get from a nursery or greenhouse operation. Keep them wet and mist them often, out of direct sunlight. They’re a little slow to root. If trying in cool or cold weather bottom heat will help.

    Sunny, concerning cuttings, I forgot to say that I take a terminal stem with about 3/4 inch below a pair of leaves. Insert the piece into the cube so that the leaves just barely wedge into the cube, which helps to stabilize it. Also, the use of a rooting hormone will help.

    Thanks for the additional info on Propagating mandevilla.

    Reply
  52. Betsy Donnelly - October 18, 2010 at 3:31 pm

    Cat repellant
    I have 4 cats that nibble on plants. Will Mandevilla red or Bright Light harm them?

    Hi Betsy
    Mandevilla is considered toxic to cats. They are low on the toxicity level so if they nibble on the leaves they may get a stomach ache. The milky substance is also a skin irritant. Cats don’t like citrus smell, try placing lemon/orange peel at the base of the plant and see if that keeps them away.

    Reply
  53. Dawn - November 22, 2010 at 10:30 am

    Poisonous Plant?
    Hi,
    I have a Mandevilla that I brought inside to ride out the winter. My problem is that my cats think it’s a salad bar. My main question is, is this considered a poisonous plant and should I disgard it? I’ve seen conflicting posts and would like an educated answer before I throw out the plant. Thanks.

    Hi Dawn
    Mandevilla is not listed on the toxic plants list by the APCA but the University of North Carolina suspects all parts to be poisonous. (www.ces.ncsu.edu). It is considered mildly toxic. The milky latex can also be a skin irritant.

    Reply
  54. Andrea - November 27, 2010 at 10:50 pm

    Feeding indoor mandevilla in winter
    Are you supposed to keep fertilizing the mandevila plant during the winter while it’s kept inside?

    Hi Andrea
    Generally, you should not fertilize mandevilla during the winter. Because of lower light conditions, cooler temps, the plant is not growing much or may be dormant and will not utilize the fertilizer. If your mandevilla is actively growing-that is producing leaves and flowers then you can feed it with 1/4 of the regular dose.

    Reply
  55. shovmama - January 7, 2011 at 10:39 pm

    Low light/no flowers
    I’m in Denver and trying desperately to get my first Mandy to survive the winter. I have it by a west-facing window with a sheer curtain, and I also have a grow light on it, but I’m not sure how it’s doing. I whacked the heck out of it about a month or so ago and it seems to have quite a bit of new growth (lots of new little leaves where I whacked it, no flowers though), but it’s also dropping leaves like crazy. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? I have not fed it at all since I brought it in around the middle of Oct., it does dry out before I water it, and I try to keep the temp around 65 (if I could get my hubby to leave the thermostat alone). Does it need more light, less light, fertilizer, etc.?

    Hi Shov
    It sound like your mandy needs more light. They need lots of direct sun in order to bloom which is very difficult to do indoors.Mandevilla will also drop their leaves in low light conditions. Don’t get discouraged, just let it continue to grow and once it starts to get more light it may bloom. The important thing is to keep the plant alive through the winter.

    Reply
  56. Brooks - May 31, 2011 at 7:02 am

    Hi — my mandevilla did beautifully last summer but when I put it back out this year it developed small brown spots all over each leaf and isn’t growing well…is this a fungus or a bug — what should I do? Perhaps it needs to be fertilized?

    Hi Brooks
    There are two types of leaf spots diseases caused by either bacteria or fungus that can occur during the warm, wet summer months 1. Corynesporo Cassicola 2. Cereospera. The disease spreads quickly on wet foliage. Cercospora begins with small purple spots which enlarge and develop dried tan areas in the center showing an overall brown spot. The leaves turn yellow with the spots and fall off after a few days. The best control is to avoid overhead watering, sanitation – remove any infected leaves and spray with a fungicide (Zyban) . Follow label directions. This site has some photos of the diseases. http://www.velvetmandevilla.com/diseases_of_mandevilla.htm

    Reply
  57. DON - June 5, 2011 at 11:25 am

    I live in Naples Fl. Temps daily are in the high 90s. My 2 mandevilla plants are in pots (2nd year for both). The pots are in all day sunlight, and we are not in rainy season. Curremtly I am getting a lot of yellow leaves. Could I be overwatering? Underwatering?
    Thanks
    Don

    Hi Don
    Could be either. If you are not watering in hot weather then it may not be getting enough moisture. If they are in last years pot, then they may need to be transplanted into larger pot with fresh soil.

    Reply
  58. Susie - June 5, 2011 at 12:17 pm

    Poisonous
    Is this plant poisonus to animals?
    Small dogs and cat

    University of North Carolina suspects all parts to be poisonous. (www.ces.ncsu.edu) The milky latex can also be a skin irritant.

    Reply
  59. Brooke - June 9, 2011 at 6:19 pm

    I just purchased a mandevilla plant and it looks like it’s wilting. I have watered it because we have had day temps in the upper 90’s. Is it to hot for my palnt?

    HI Brooke
    Mandevilla is a tropical plant and can tolerate hot temperatures as long as they are healthy and acclimated to the heat. Move your plant into the semi-shade for a few days until the heat wave subsides and then gradually move it back to full sun. During high heat the plant will use up more water and may need to be watered more often.

    Reply
  60. Jessica - June 10, 2011 at 1:58 pm

    Hi! I recently planted red Mandevillas around my salt water pool in northern Ohio. Now that the kids are swimming more, certain plants are getting splashed with the pool water. The red flowers on these plants are turning pink and even white in some places. Is the salt in the water affecting the alkalinity of the soil? I want my red blooms back!

    Hi Jessica
    It’s possible that the pool water changed the ph and the splashing water affects the flowers. Sun can also fade the flower color. Move the plants away from the water.

    Reply
  61. Katie Lessmeier - June 12, 2011 at 4:04 pm

    Leaf drop
    Hi-
    I have always had luck with Mandevilla before, but this year is different-
    Its been a wet, cool summer so far, and my Mandevilla seems to be in trouble. I am trying to keep it from getting too wet, but the vines seem to be turning brown and dying off, and the leaves just drop off. They aren’t yellowed or browned- they look to be perfectly healty leaves until they drop. Any ideas for what to do or what might be wrong? Thanks!

    It sounds like a root problem. If the plant was kept too wet for an extended time then it may have developed root rot. Since they are tropical plants, I’m sure the cold weather didn’t help. Try repotting it in fresh soil. While doing this check the roots. If they are healthy, they should be white .

    Reply
  62. Mindy - June 12, 2011 at 7:10 pm

    Ants in plant
    We discovered our mandevilla (potted) was infested with ants – not the leaves or flowers but all throughout the dirt and roots. We applied insecticide and replaced half the dirt. Our girl is still turning yellow – from the bottom up – but she still has new growth on top. Is there any hope for our gilr?

    Hi Mindy
    Yes, there is hope. Mandevilla will drop some of its leaves when under stress. Two things- have you fertilized the plant? Lower yellow leaves can be an indicator that it needs some Nitrogen. Second- just in case, check for insect infestation – scale or aphids, as ants are attracted to the honeydew that they produce.

    Reply
  63. Cindy - June 16, 2011 at 8:32 am

    I am having a terrible time with Mandevilla plant in just one pot this summer. It is just wilting and dying. I have checked the soil and it is not too wet and I also have other plants growing in the same pot. This is a very large pot that has a match on the other size in a pool area, the other Mandevilla is thriving but cannot keep one alive in this pot. There are no browning or yellowing of the leaves just one day I walk out and the plant is wilted. This is the 3rd plant in this pot and each one has had the same problem. Lost as to why?

    Hi Cindy
    Does the pot drain well? Is it possible that your mandevilla is not getting enough water? Perhaps the other plants are competing for moisture.

    Reply
  64. Brooke - June 16, 2011 at 6:41 pm

    Ok, now my Mandavilla vine has turned totally brown and I think It’s about dead. Can I cut it way down and hope that is will come back? There is really no reason for the dying leaves it’s been watered, not too much, I’ve been taking care of it. Is it a lost cause?

    Hi Brooke
    If the vines are brown then its probably dead. There is a slight chance that it will send out new growth from the roots. If you don’t see any new growth in a few weeks, then its a goner.

    Reply
  65. Mickie - June 19, 2011 at 3:38 pm

    I Just purchased two of these beautiful Mandavilla plants. Do these climb? should I plant in the ground or pots? What other plant’s look good with them?

    Hi Mickie
    Mandevilla is a tropical plant that is hardy in zone 9-11 so if you live in a colder climate you will have to bring it indoors for the winter or it will die. They should send out vines and will climb.

    Reply
  66. Pammy - June 20, 2011 at 9:35 am

    I purchased 2 of these plants and love them. One plant shriveled and died all of a sudden. Now the other one is starting to do the same thing. Turning brown from the vine up. Inbetween time, I purchased 2 more and don’t want them to die too. I live in Kansas, 80-100 degrees and wind. They are on my deck which is covered by a huge maple tree but still get 1/2 day sunlight. I don’t think we’re under or over watering & the pot has drainage. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?

    Reply
  67. Marilyn Morrison - June 23, 2011 at 12:57 pm

    hi… I am a new mandevilla owner.I live in central Minnesota,and we are having an unusually long period of rain and cool weather. Is this going to hurt my plant ?

    Hi Marilyn
    Mandevilla are tropical plants and grow best in warm temperatures. Can’t do much about the weather. Protect your mandevilla from too much rain as that can lead to some overwatering problems and root damage.

    Reply
  68. john rook - June 23, 2011 at 2:35 pm

    Leaf spot disease
    located in northeastern pa.

    1 of 2 mandevilla plants is slowly dying; leaf drop, spotting, curling. One bloom on the way. I water the plants once every two days or so. they both get full sun. the soil is rich and has a few inches of stone on the bottom of the pot for positive drainage. I have dilluted some fertilizer in water (slightly less than asked for on the directions) and applied the mix to the plants 3 weeks ago.

    the strong plant has been getting more leaves and deepens in healthy green color. My first bloom is on the way. I have had them in pots now for almost 6 weeks.

    the weather has ranged from 70 to 90 degrees with evening thunder showers every few days.

    Hi John
    It sounds as if your sick plant has some type of root rot problem and possibly a leaf spot disease which occurs in warm, wet weather. When the plant is in a weakened state, it is more susceptible to other pathogens. Between you watering and the rain, it may be getting to much moisture. Reduce the watering slightly and treat the plant with a fungicide to help control the disease.

    Reply
  69. ged - June 24, 2011 at 8:36 am

    I purchased two 4 foot potted plants in May. Both plants blooming. One dropped all flowers and shows no signs of returning blooms. They live on the patio near each other, same environment. Will blooms return? Anythink I can do to coax them back?
    THX!

    Some stressful condition caused the plant to drop its blooms. Is it possible that the plant is pot bound and dries out quickly?

    Reply
  70. Shirley Moehling - June 25, 2011 at 12:14 pm

    Wintered over not blooming
    My mandevilla plant looks healthy, but is producing no flowers. This is a potted plant, second year, and receives approximately 6 hours of strong sunlight per day. Last year this potted plant flowered all season, in the same location. Any advice? Thank you.

    Hi Shirley
    Sometimes it takes longer for an overwintered mandevilla to produce flowers. Since they bloom on new growth, they need to put on good healthy growth before they start to bloom again. Best thing to do when bringing then back outside after winter is to cut back the spindly winter growth by 1/3-1/2. Repot in fresh soil as they can be pot bound from last years growth. Start fertilizing when new growth starts.

    Reply
  71. ED - June 27, 2011 at 12:42 am

    It sounds like you have a Dipladenia.

    I maybe wrong but the leaves are a darker green thicker and the flowers are a very dark red?? I live in Summerville I grow both. The Mandivilla I use a 2 foot pot and 9 foot bamboo poles stuck in it as a trellis. I use electrical wire to hold them together. they grew 9ft in 3 weeks.

    Reply
  72. James Barnett - June 29, 2011 at 7:58 am

    I have several Mandevilla plants. One has dark green leaves 6-7 inches long, others have much smaller leaves and do not vine like the one with big leaves. The large leafed one seems to be much more vigorous than the smaller leafed ones. What is the difference in the plants? Do I need to care for them differently?

    Hi james
    There are many varieties of Mandevillas, including varieties formerly known as Dipladenia.The old fashioned variety Mandevilla x amabilis Alice du Pont has larger fuzzy foliage and bright pink flowers, grows vigorously. Other cultivars, Mandevilla splendens (Dipladenia splendens) has dark glossy smaller leaves(eg. Sun Parasol). Both are grown trellised and have a tendency to vine. Eventhough they look different, they are considered Mandevila. The care is the same for both vines.

    Reply
  73. bella - June 29, 2011 at 8:40 pm

    I have read that Mandavilla is hardy to zone 9, but then I read that it needs to be inside when the temp dips below 50F at night. I see zone 9 temps are down to as low as 20F at night. Will I have to take my new Mandevilla in for the winter in San Mateo CA which is solid zone 10, down to 30F at night?

    Hi Bella
    I should grow well in your zone. If temps drop down to 20F at night, they may loose their leaves but will regrow new ones in warmer temperatures.

    Reply
  74. Doreen - July 6, 2011 at 5:59 pm

    I have two beautiful Mandevilla planted in large pots. They get direct sun in the afternoon and both are blooming profusely, but they’re not climbing! I’m so disappointed; I have beautiful trellises in the pots to train them. Is there a trick to get them to climb? The only thing I can think of is that they went from small pots at the nursery to my very large pots, and the roots are growing but the plant is not. Is that right?

    Hi Doreen
    Mandevilla need warm weather to start vining and the roots are adjusting and growing from transplanting. They should start to vine soon.

    Reply
  75. Judie Blanke - July 8, 2011 at 8:34 pm

    Virus?
    So glad I found this site, have a problem no one has mentioned. This is my third year with previously beautiful, flourishing pink Mandevillas that grew up the sides of the porch and even across the top, making a beautiful, tropical display.
    This year, all the new leaves at the top are coming our very small and disfigured, mottled ends, some with out much of anything on one side of the leaf. Growth is sparse also. Fertilized regularly with Miracle Grow and Bloom Booster, as we did in years past. Did use one dose of Superthrive, which says it is vitamins and hormones??? I took it to the local botanical gardens and they thought they saw a few spider mites spots, but there are no webs or bugs to be seen. I sprayed both of them with purchased insectide soap, but have this sick feeling, there is more to it, that that. Oh, how I hope you can shed some light on this. Thanks in advance.

    Hi Judie
    Are they growing in the ground or pot? If in a pot did you replant in fresh soil this year.

    Hi there,

    Yes, they are in the same pots as last year, when they did so beautifully. I did use new Fertilome soil, that even says good for tropicals. I washed both of them with purchased insecticidal soap. Wondering now if I should look for Neem Oil. Still getting some blooms, but not as many as before. One at least is climbing with it’s little leaves, the other is definitely lagging behind and it seems the older, established, larger leaves are disappearing. I am mystified….and bummed. : o /

    Hi Judie
    If the plant had at some point of its growing life was infested by aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whitefly or mealy bugs, then it may have a viral disease which was transmitted by the insect which accounts for the distorted, mottled young leaves and poor growth. Nothing you can do for a virus but give the plant optimal growing conditions.

    Reply
  76. Stella Fitzhugh - July 9, 2011 at 8:30 am

    Brown leaves
    I live in west Texas, where we have had 30 100+ degree days so far this year. I’ve been successfully growing Mandevilla in pots for a few years. This year I found some in hanging baskets which are perfect for my east-facing balcony. They have done beautifully until 3 days ago when I discovered several of the upper leaves are turning brown on the tips, then gradually the whole leaf withers and dies. This isn’t like the disease where the leaves develop small purplish spots, then turn yellow and fall off. It’s more of a rusty color. I water once a day (being in hanging baskets they drain well)and fertilize every 2 weeks. I haven’t seen this condition before. Help!

    Hi Stella
    Brown edges on the leaves can be caused by hot, dry air, or sun scorch. In additon browning leaves can be an indicator of underwatering especially if the mandevillas are growing in a container. Pot bound containers may not retain moisture and will dry out much faster. They may need to be watered more often to keep the roots moist. Brown edges can also be an indicator of excess fertilizer (soluble salt burn).

    Reply
  77. Ruth Littell - July 9, 2011 at 3:19 pm

    This is my first experience with the Manevilla plant. I purchased two and have them planted in full sun in large pots on an outdoor patio. One of them died, so purchased another to replace it and this one is being infested with sticky orage, what I think are aphids. What can I do to get rid of them?

    Hi Ruth
    Sticky foliage can also indicate scale (bumps on stem and leaves). If you have aphids, wash them off with a spray of water. Scale are much more difficult to get rid of.

    Reply
  78. Joan - July 10, 2011 at 8:37 am

    Help!!
    why can I not get my Mandevilla to bloom? It is is mostly all sun in a nice big pot and fertilized once every two weeks or so. It looks healthy just no blooms.

    Hi Joan
    Mandevilla need to put on a good amount of growth before they start to bloom. Are u fertilizing the plant? If so with what? and how often.

    Reply
  79. Brenda - July 12, 2011 at 8:40 pm

    I live in Waco, Tx and the temperature is 100-102 degrees right now. My mandevillas leaves are turning yellow/brown. I water them every/every other day. One of them gets morning sun; the other one gets afternoon sun. What do you think might be the problem?

    HI Brenda
    Yellowing/brown leaves can be a respose to stress, such as overwatering or underwatering. In hot weather, you mandevillas need to be watered more often. Keep the soil moist but not too wet.

    Reply
    1. joan - July 16, 2011 at 1:29 pm

      yes I am fertilizing about every week and a half with 10-10-10.

      Try using a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) or a bloom boost every 2 weeks.

      Reply
  80. Cathy - July 24, 2011 at 8:49 am

    Heat stress
    My Mandevilla, is in a large planter, w/soil – think it’s Miracle Grow – that retains the moisture & isn’t supposed to allow the plant to absorb TOO much water. The leaves are turning yellow. We live in Texas, the plant is on the front porch, which faces West, and the temperature gets quite hot in the afternoon, what temperature & prolonged exposure, is too much. Additionally, the front porch is essentially a brick oven – bricks on house & slab of porch…..(I didn’t design this place…). Could the yellow leaves be from TOO much water? Or TOO LITTLE? Not enough fertilizer? I just checked the pot, and the soil is quite dry on top.

    Hi Cathy
    The hot environment can be stressing your mandevilla and causing yellowing leaves. In addition, plants in containers will dry out faster and need to be watered more often during the summer heat. On the other hand, the moisture retaining soil may be keeping the roots too wet and more difficult to judge when to water.
    Soil that is too wet, will have the same symptoms- yellow leaves. Does your container have good drainage? Water your plants when the top 1-2 inches of soil are dry.

    Reply
  81. Donna - July 24, 2011 at 4:19 pm

    Yellow new growth
    Great website! I live in the desert. I have one potted mandevilla which I placed in my garden under a pergola last winter. It bloomed profusely and thrived through a freeze (which killed some bouganvilla) Now it’s not blooming at all~We’ve had several days well over 110~ It’s healthy otherwise, and climbing well~Have been feeding a blooming fertilizer every couple of weeks, and watering daily. The other 2 which I planted in the ground get the same care but are yellow on all the top leaves. They get some filtered sun & mostly shade during the day, and have not bloomed at all this summer. Too hot? Thank you!!

    Hi Donna
    Since your mandevilla died back in winter, it is working to get up to speed with the season. Once it puts on sufficient growth, then it will start to bloom. Yours is slow to start. If it is growing vigorously, hold off on the fertilizer and see if it will start to bloom. Sometimes too much of a good thing will keep them from doing their job. Eventhough they are tropical plants, extreme heat can also be a factor.
    I’m not sure what is causing the yellowing new growth. It can be an indicator of a micronutrient deficiency or poor growing conditions. They may need more sun. If the new growth is also curling, then it may be from dry air/low humidity.

    Reply
  82. GFP63 - July 25, 2011 at 3:50 am

    I live in Long Island, New York and have a couple of Giant Pink Mandevilla planted in pots climbing the front columns of my house. They have been there for about 2 months and doing nicely. Whenever they are watered the water is quickly absorbed into the soil.

    Yesterday – in the midst of this heat wave no less – I noticed one of the plants was very wet, puddling in the soil, which was odd because )a of the heat wave and b) it had not been watered since the day before and c) all the other plants around it were dry. This morning – same thing. The soil is mysteriously very damp.
    I am baffled, and hope this is not the beginning of the end for this plant, like drowning in its own… whatever.
    I did add some soil to the pot which has seemed to stav the ‘wetness’ but the plant is looking rather sad.
    Thank you in advance for your comments and suggestions.

    Hi
    There’s an issue with the soil, it may be oversaturated or poor quality. The plant roots are drowning. Does the container have any drainage. You may have to replace the soil.

    Reply
  83. Dianne - July 27, 2011 at 7:26 am

    Hi!
    I have two identical mandevillas potted on my front porch. They get direct sunlight most of the day. The plants are very bushy but the leaves are starting to turn brown from the middle of the plant. The brown leaves have spread to the outer leaves and the plant looks to be dying. The other plant is just starting to turn brown from the inside also. I’ve had mandevillas for years and never experienced this problem. Can I save the healthier one?
    Thanks!

    Hi Dianne
    It sounds like a watering or soil issue. Are they getting enough water? Does the water drain too quickly out of the pot to sufficiently water the roots? With increased summer heat, the plants need to be watered more often.

    Reply
  84. Ginny - July 28, 2011 at 3:53 pm

    Please help me this is my first time with mandevillas. I have two lovely plants in separate containers on my front porch which is sunny in the morning hours. At the beginning they were growing beautiful with healthy looking leaves and dark pink flowers. I water then every day and fertilize then every other week. Suddenly, the flowers on one of the plants turned very light almost white, then the buds were brown at the tips and they all fell, now the leaves are turning yellow and the other plant is getting brown spots. I am worried. What should I do? I live in the New York area.
    Thank you

    Hi Ginny
    Be careful not to overwater the plant. The flowers may be turning white (bleaching) from too much sun and heat.

    Reply
  85. Duckie - July 28, 2011 at 4:59 pm

    I just purchased a Mandevilla. It is beautiful. Before I even plant it I want to make sure I do it “right”. I live in the Inland Northwest where it gets hot in the summer……cold in the winter. What is the best place to plant this…..southern exposure? Stay in the pot in came in or transplant to a bigger plant? Thanks.

    Hi Duckie
    It may not be hardy where you live. You may have to keep it in a container and bring it indoors for the winter. Southern exposure is ok.

    Reply
  86. Karen - July 28, 2011 at 10:27 pm

    I have three Mandevillas. They were all doing really good till this Monday. I left the water on in my pool over night by mistake and over filled the pool. It took it all day then next day to quit draining out into my yard. Within 24 hrs…two of my Mandevillas were wilted looking…just kinda droopy and by second day the other one started getting yellow leaves. I have not watered all week now…as I know they were way over watered. I am not seeing any improvement. I have wondered if that pool water ph was not good for them…or if it was just sitting in standing water for over 24 hrs.

    Hi Karen
    Mandevilla are sensitive to overwatering and the pool chemicals didn’t help. If the plant was weakened this incident just pushed it over the edge. I would wait and see what happens. Make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
    If your plant has root rot. You can try drenching the soil with a fungicide and hope it recovers.

    Reply
  87. alicia - July 31, 2011 at 2:19 pm

    Aphids
    I have a mandevilla in my patio and it constantly is getting little yellow aphids (bright yellow little bugs with black spikes)…within a day or two an entire branch is covered..I spray it with Neem Oil and they turn into black soot..but sure enough they reappear a few days later elsewhere–short of spraying them everyday which seems impossible because I tried and its not working.. do I either get rid of the gorgeous plant that is thriving and flowering beautifully or do I give up and let the aphids go at it until winter approaches. I live in Southern California.

    Hi Alicia
    Aphids reproduce very quickly given the right conditions. One spraying only elliminates one stage of the insect while the egg stage is there waiting. A good spray of water on the vine will also knock them off the plant and reduce populations. Be persistant, its either you or them! They may have won the battle but not the war. Don’t let them win. for additional battle plan see: http://hortchat.com/info/aphids

    Reply
  88. Susan - August 1, 2011 at 5:12 pm

    I planted a Mandevilla in between two evergreen shrubs and now they are staring to look a little sick. Is there a compatibility issue that you know of?

    Hi Susan
    It’s probably not getting enough sun. If you don’t live in the tropics-you will have to dig it up and store it for the winter or it will die.

    Reply
  89. Karen - August 2, 2011 at 8:24 am

    Soil ph
    I removed all the yellowed leaves, mulch really well with an organic compost…still a little droopy on two of them…but they are putting out new leaves. I did check the ph and it was at about 6.5. I know this is a little high for them…I am hoping the compost will help…it is specific for mandevillias and palms. I am going to check ph in few more days…if it is still a little high…do you have any ideas for lowering the ph?

    Hi Karen
    I wouldn’t worry about the ph too much. The normal range is 5.5-6.5. An acid fertilizer, it should help lower the ph or add used coffee grounds on top of the soil. I can help lower it slightly. The leaves may have yellowed due to some stress on the roots from watering. It’s a good sign that your mandevilla is sending out new leaves.

    Reply
  90. lorry - August 5, 2011 at 12:43 pm

    Yellowing leaves from flowers
    I know this sounds crazy, but we have been growing mandevilla (Alice Dupont) in pots, training them to grow up the posts on our porch for 8 years. (We buy new every year) We have often wondered why our ilex crenata planted around our porch yellows, and dies. It is only the plants that are under the Mandevilla that are dying. What happens is the spent pink flowers drop on top of the ilex, and that’s where it yellows?????????? Has anyone ever heard of the flowers being toxic??
    They say the Mandevilla is related to a plant that is toxic?? Thanks

    Hi Lorry
    The milky juice of the leaves is slightly toxic. It can irritate the skin. My guess is as the flowers land on the leaf surface, they block the sun and any photosynthesis. The flowers may have something in them that cause a chemical reaction with the leaves. Best thing you can do is to remove the flowers off the ilex as they fall off.

    Reply
  91. Dennis - August 8, 2011 at 3:46 pm

    Aphids
    I have these aphids and water is not knocking them off. Is there a pesticide
    that I can use to get rid of them permanently. I want to make sure, they are
    actually moving on the vine. Is this what Aphids are? The plants are continuously
    blooming. Please advise.

    Hi Dennis
    See http://hortchat.com/info/aphids for treatment suggestions. The key is to be persistant, so that you can treat the insect at all stages of development.

    Reply
  92. JoAnn - August 9, 2011 at 6:47 am

    quick question!
    I live in Washington state — just purchased 3 beautiful red Mandevillas in hanging baskets. Did not know they would need to be taken in for the winter. Is there a place to plant them near the house or something that i can leave them in the ground year-round?

    hi JoAnn
    Washington state has a wide range of hardiness zones from 4b-9a. Mandevilla is hardy in zones 9-11. Therefore, if you are in zone 9 or even 8b you can keep it planted outside in a protected area.

    Reply
  93. Casey - August 18, 2011 at 1:13 pm

    Hello – I love reading the mandevilla stories. I have some questions.

    I bought two mandevilla (white) this past summer. They repotted them for me at the nursery when I bought them and they are doing great. I can’t believe how often they flower and I am usually death to plants. Anyway, my questions are:

    Will I need to repot them soon? How can I tell?
    Would they prefer to be in a clay pot next time? They are in plastic now.
    Will it hurt them if I trim their thin shoots that like to attach themselves to other things?
    Thank you very much,

    Hi Casey
    You don’t need to repot them this season but it would be a good idea next spring. A plastic container is good as they hold moisture longer. Clay pots have a tendency to dry out faster. As mandevilla starts to vine, it will produce more flowers. Trimming will reduce flowers but will not hurt the plant. You will have to trim it when you bring it indoors for the winter.

    Reply
  94. Dalila Quinones - August 21, 2011 at 11:17 am

    Caterpillars on mandevilla
    I have a beautiful Mandevilla plant growing in our front yard. I just noticed that there are these orange spiny catapillers eating the leaves. We live in Florida and it gets plenty of sun. How do I get rid of the catapillers?

    Hi Dalila
    Not sure what you have. BT (Dipel) might work on the caterpillars- depending on what type.

    Reply
  95. Lily - August 31, 2011 at 9:13 am

    Hi, I live in Scottsdale, Arizona. I have two red mendevilla plants in pots with well-drained soil & in outdoor shade (front porch). I have had them for about 5 months. They have been very healthy until recently starting to have the browned spots on leaves and wilting. I removed all the brown leaves, got more careful with watering and move both pots indoor with light through the glass because of the continuing excessive heat over 110 degree recently. Should I use the fungicide to treat the plants and also keep them indoor for sometime? Do I need to repot? Thanks!

    Hi Lily
    If you have a fungal leaf spot, then you can treat it with a fungicide to help control the spread of the disease. The leaves may also have brown spotted areas from sun scorch and excess heat. Leave your mandevilla indoors until the weather subsides a bit. Give them a chance to recover. I would not repot at this time.

    Reply
  96. Nana - September 4, 2011 at 9:13 am

    Cut back mandevilla
    Can you tell me when and how far back I can trim our mandevilla. I was told that if you cut them back they would not bloom for a year. We live in Louisa Va. The plants are kept inside in the winter and out on the deck in the summer. We have had them for years but they are looking stringy because we don’t cut back anything but the dead ends.

    Hi Nana
    If you keep it in a dormant stage, you can cut it back to about 12 inches above the soil line. If you keep it as a houseplant 1/3 of the plant is a safe pruning. Also cut back any stringy winter growth in the spring. More info see: http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

    Reply
  97. Mary Ann Nicholson - September 8, 2011 at 10:50 pm

    Winterover mandevilla
    I bought a small but beautiful Sun Parasol Crimson Mandevilla in late summer, full of blooms and vey healthy. I live in Nashville, TN (Zone 7) and know of course it would never survive one of our winters. I have a basement which would provide shelter but no guarantee of above-freezing temps. What about putting my Mandevilla in an unheated bedroom during the winter months but which does not have much sunlight? How much sunlight and at what temperature range does a Mandevilla require to successfully winterize it? Would love advice from anyone so I might enjoy this beautiful plant again next summer.

    Hi Mary Ann
    There are several ways you can store your mandevilla. See http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla. Your unheated bedroom would work.

    Reply
  98. natalie - September 21, 2011 at 7:58 pm

    I’d like to grow mine in the kitchen trellised up a wall. I understand the risks of rot and bugs, and am researching a good grow light to hang from the ceiling. I got advice that light would have to be very close and on the blue side to produce adequate growth for flowering. I’m in Santa Fe NM so i could cut back nd summer outside but would hope they could remain part of my kitchen design yearround. I could always rebuy each year, but I’m handy enough, any additional advice?
    I’m thinking maintain new root cuttings away from inside plants, maybe start annually for growing season outside?
    I appreciate all your wisdom shared in precious posts…very interesting!

    Reply
  99. Beth - September 30, 2011 at 9:52 am

    Hi! I’m a first timer with Mandevilla and I have 2 Sun Parasol Crimson red Mandevilla that I bought late spring and fell in love with these plants, both are doing great, healthy and still blooming. I live in northeastern New Jersey and have an unheated enclosed porched that allows morning sun in and that’s where I plan to keep my mandevillas for the winter. Do I have to keep them dormant or treat like houseplant. I have spikes and citrus plant that I kept in the porch during winter and so far managed to survive. Please, I need your advise on how I can take care of them during winter. The porch is really very cold during winter. Thank you very much!

    Hi Beth
    You can keep your mandevilla as a houseplant. Put it in the sunniest window and water a bit less during the winter. If you keep it on the porch make sure temperatures don’t drop below 40F. Mandevilla will drop its leaves and go dormant in cold temperatures.

    Reply
  100. Linda - October 4, 2011 at 9:08 am

    Trim vine for winter
    I live in Western Pennsylvania. I have a Giant Crimson Mandevilla – which has been beautiful since I got it in the spring. I understand it needs to come inside for the winter. My question is – should it be pruned back or left to grow as is? If it needs to be pruned, how much should be cut off. Thanks for you help

    Hi Linda
    If you keep it as a houseplant then you can cut off up to 1/3 to keep the vine manageable. If you store it dormant for the winter, the vine can be cut back to less than 12 inches from the soil line. More info see http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

    Reply
  101. Sherry - October 7, 2011 at 1:00 pm

    Shedding yellow leaves
    Hi,
    I live in Southern Ontario, Canada and purchased my first “Pretty Pink” Sun Parasol plant in June. I had it in a full sun location all summer and it grew and bloomed beautifully. I brought it in for the winter and put it in a sunny window. It was doing great and even bloomed for a couple more weeks but lately I have noticed the leaves are turning yellow pretty fast. What can I do so keep this wonderful plant from dying? It is still in the 12″ pot I purchased it in and I have been watering it once a week like I do my other plants. Is that too much or too little? Do I need to fertilize? What kind, how much and how often? It did not come with much information so any that you can offer would be a huge help.
    Thank you in advance for responding! \":)\"

    Hi Sherry
    Most likely you mandevilla plant is shedding its leaves due to the lower light conditions indoors. There’s a big difference in indoors light vs outdoor light. Not much you can do about that, unless you add a growth light on it. It could also be shedding its leaves if there is an insect infestation so check the plant. Because there is less growth in winter, water less and don’t fertilize the plant until late winter, early spring.

    Reply
  102. Deneise - October 14, 2011 at 4:25 pm

    Grow from seed
    I live in Fort Worth,Texas and I got some Mandevilla seeds from a neighbor. Can you tell me what is the best way to get them to germinate and when should I start germinating them if I would like to let them climb around my patio? I’m not sure if they will die over winter or not.

    Hi Deneise
    Sow the seed in a fine seed soil mix in early spring. Before planting, soak the seeds in water for 12 hrs. Maintain a bottom heat of 65-75F (20-25C). Seeds should germinate in 30 days. more info see http://hortchat.com/info/propagate-mandevilla

    Reply
  103. marcie - January 1, 2012 at 1:27 pm

    leaf drop in winter
    I live in Ohio, so I winterized my mandeville vine as specified and brought it in the house. It looks dead. I did not over-water it, but the leaves are dried out. Did I kill it?

    Hi Marcie
    Mandevilla will drop their leaves indoors if they are not getting enough light or humidity. It sounds as if the plant has gone into dormancy so move it to a cool, spot like a basement for the winter. Water occasionally (once a month) just enough to keep the soil from drying out completely. more info see…http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

    Reply
  104. Farrel - January 24, 2012 at 10:57 am

    Hi from Minnesota. I have a dipladenia that is wintering in my sunny sunroom when there is sun. It has developed white fuzzy bits that are on the branches, in the crooks and on either side of the leaves. The fuzz when removed has a pinkish moist interior. The plant otherwise seems to be doing well with normal dropping of leaves. Flowering has stopped. Vines are growing. What gives?

    Hi Farrel
    Can you send me at picture? send to Kris@Hortchat.com It could be mealy bug.

    Reply
  105. Barbara Causey - January 27, 2012 at 9:15 am

    Aphids
    I have a red Mandevilla that has some kind of growth on the new leaves and stems they are ayellow fuzzy type growth. They wash off but come right back the next week.
    The plant was outside and we moved it inside for the winter.
    We think that they might be insects.

    Hi Barbara
    From the picture you sent, they are insects- aphids(plant lice). You can wash them off but will need repeated washings. Insecticidal soap every 3-5 days for two weeks should also work. I have several suggestions to control aphids on http://hortchat.com/info/aphids They like the warm indoor temperatures in winter. I prefer to use a “milder” type of insecticide especially when spraying indoors. Soapy water can also help control them. If you are persistant then washing with soapy water can do the trick.
    Aphids do reproduce very quickly esp. when conditions are good. That’s why you’ll have to spray at 3-5 days.
    You should isolate the plant from any other plants as they can spread. Aphids can be fussy about which plants they attack. The ones on your mandevilla may not attack any other plant but then again they may. They love new succulent growth.

    Reply
  106. robin - February 2, 2012 at 5:01 pm

    I was recently given a potted mandevilla which had been stored in a cool unlit room. It has numerous green shoots ranging from a few inches to 3 feet and filled with lots of tiny buds. It was not cut back as suggested. What I do with it now that it has shoots? I do not have a sunny room to store it.
    Thank you,
    Robin

    Hi Robin
    The mandevilla needs to have light if the shoots will survive or they will become weak and spindly. Otherwise, you can prune the plant back, once you are ready to put it out into the sun. Pruning will take care of the spindly growth and encourage new healthy growth in the spring.

    Reply
  107. robin - February 4, 2012 at 7:01 am

    Thank you for your prompt reply. I have a wall of east facing windows. Will that do for light or would you suggest that I put it into this light and still prune it back in the spring?
    Thank you agian.
    Robin

    Hi Robin
    Since it wants to grow, the east window will do. You will have to prune some of the winter growth back in spring just to keep it from getting too spindly looking. Once it’s outdoors it will put on healthier growth.

    Reply
  108. Lysa - March 13, 2012 at 10:18 pm

    new growth dieback
    I put my mandevilla outside last week and it was in the 60’s and 70’s during the day, but got cold at night (never below freezing though). On one or 2 of the days it was outside it was really windy. I brought it in when I realized it was going to go below freezing. All the new growth it had formed while being indside during the winter has died and there is no green on the plant. Did the cold from one or 2 nights kill it or is it just dormant?

    Hi Lysa
    Two things could have happened. 1. Your mandevilla is used to low light growing conditions indoors during the winter. It produced spindly, new winter growth. When you placed it in bright, direct sun for the day, the delicate new growth can “burn” from over exposure. Wind will also cause leaf damage.
    2. Because the new growth is so delicate, it is also very susceptible to cold damage. It sounds like a combination of both. Don’t worry about the new growth dieback, it is usually cut back anyway to allow new healthy growth.

    Reply
  109. Roseanna - March 15, 2012 at 7:41 pm

    We purchased a mandevilla last spring and planted it in our back yard on our fence. We live in the high desert of Southern California zone 8B. It gets sun almost all day and did great thru the summer. We did not do anything to winterize the plant but had a pretty mild winter. The whole plant is brown, vine and leaves. It is just starting to warm up for spring with temps in the 60’s & 70’s. Did we kill our plant or is there a chance it may come back and we should wait a few more months? What is the best way to winterize when being left outside?

    Hi Roseanna
    Mandevilla is a tropical plant, hardy in zone 9-11 so it is marginally hardy where you live. It will drop its leaves once temperatures get into the 40’s. Eventhough the leaves are brown, it may still come back from the roots. You may have to trim it back a bit. Wait and see what it does. As far a winterizing there isn’t a whole lot you can do but add several inches of mulch along the roots and if possible cover the vine.

    Reply
  110. Caroline Napoli - April 4, 2012 at 6:19 am

    Slow growth on Mandevilla
    I have always grown mandevilla very successfully in pots but in my new residences I wanted privacy and plant 5 plants to climb over a wrought iron terrace railing unfortunately they are very slow growing and not the normal lush amount of leaves.

    Hi Caroline
    Perhaps your mandevilla need some fertilizer or the soil is not condusive to good growth. They need well draining soil.

    Reply
  111. rachael - April 13, 2012 at 9:52 am

    Nutrient deficiency
    Hi I was wondering if anyone knew if Mandevilla was prone to either Iron or Manganese deficiency? I have some in a bedding plant greenhouse and the new growth is showing some interveinal chlorosis starting from the base of the leaf (tips are still green?).

    Hi Rachael
    Mandevilla needs slightly acidic soil (ph 5.5-6.5). They can develop an iron deficiency if the ph is high. Iron defieciency will cause young leaves to develop interveinal yellowing, while older leaves remain green. Test the soil and see if the ph needs to be lowered. If so add aluminum sulfate or feed the plants with a fertilizer that includes micronutrients and is formulated for acid loving plants.

    Reply
  112. Deborah - April 14, 2012 at 11:48 am

    I live in far west texas & thought the madevilla would be good to plant in the backyard so it would vine up on the fence for privacy (like my honesuckles do)…but all the comments I read see that this plant is in pots. Am I wishful thinking that this flowering beauty will survive hot summer sun & cold-ish winter (zone 8)?

    Hi Deborah
    Mandevilla is hardy in zone 9-11. They tolerate a minimum temperature of 45-50F.

    Reply
  113. Kathryn Scearce - April 24, 2012 at 3:29 pm

    My daughter brought me my first Crimson Mandevilla plant today, it is beautiful.I transplanted it into a larger pot, but the pot is not quite deep enough. At the top outside edges I mounded the sides up with good potting soil. Will this be ok.

    Hi Kathryn
    You might have a problem when watering if the soil is too high in the pot. The water will run off the top.

    Reply
  114. Kathryn Scearce - April 24, 2012 at 3:43 pm

    I want to keep my crimson mandevilla indoors. I have a large picture window but no direct sunlight. Would my plant survive indoors under these conditions?

    Hi Kathryn
    Tropical Mandevilla requires full sun, bright direct light in order to flower. Indirect indoor light will not fullfill the plants requirements. It may survive but don’t be surprised if it doesn’t flower and becomes spindly. A summer vacation outdoors is the best spot for your mandevilla.

    Reply
    1. Lysa - April 26, 2012 at 1:18 pm

      If my plant went dormant, how long will it stay dormant?

      Hi Lysa
      Your mandevilla should be starting to show some signs of growth as soon as the days are longer and starting to warm up.

      Reply
  115. Wilma - May 1, 2012 at 11:32 am

    I live in San Antonio, TX. I purchased a Mandevilla last spring (2011). It is in a large container on my front porch. Since we had a very mild winter it made it through with flying colors. I bought a very large single trellis and keep wrapping the new growth around. It is almost four feet tall and everyone comments on how beautiful it is. I wanted to move it, but was told it does not like afternoon sun. Is this correct? Thank you for your reply.

    Hi Wilma
    Mandevilla is a tropical plant and will grow in full sun. It can tolerate afternoon sun as long as it gets enough moisture during hot weather. If you move it, it will have a period of adjustment to the sun but should be fine.

    Reply
  116. Karen - May 4, 2012 at 7:17 pm

    Spider mites
    I have 2 mandevilla plants. One’s leaves are dark green and plentiful.
    The other day I noticed my other plant’s leaves are mottled, and light-green/yellowish. I also noticed that it has far fewer leaves.

    Upon very close inspection, I saw all these delicate little webs, and the tiniest little bugs! EWWWW!!!!

    I live in southern Michigan and have had these plants… AND THESE BUGS!… in my house all winter long!????!? WHAT IS IT?
    Also, is it recommended to change out the soil in the pots after winter, before acclimating them to the outdoors?

    Hi Karen
    It sounds like your mandevilla may have spider mites. They love the dry indoor air in winter.
    It is a good idea to repot and change the soil so that the plant can get off to a good start. Wash the plant with water to remvoe the mites and spray it with a miticide. more ideas see…http://hortchat.com/info/spider-mites

    Reply
  117. Larry - May 5, 2012 at 4:30 am

    Purchased 4 giant crimson and white mandavillas at 3-3 1/2′ tall w/plenty vines. We created 3 – 2’x 2′ hand crafted wooden planters on our deck. Planters are about 20″ deep and lined with rubber roofing material, a drainage pvc piping from bottom of planters. Water should drain off back side of planter off deck. The 3 planters are connected by framed lattice for climbing. We placed Hydroton (explanded clay)inside planters with window screen on top. Will place soil and plant on top of this. Living 15 miles inland from Boston. Does this seem to be a proper system? We will receive plenty of sun. I’m anxious to transplant but concerned with the weather. It is only May 5. Also, how do I store the plants in the meantime? Keep outside overnight unless under 50 degrees?

    Hi Larry
    Wow! Sounds like you have designed a whole planting system for your mandevilla. It should grow very well with good drainage and in full sun. You can store the plant in a garage overnight if temps drop below 50F. Enjoy your mandevilla. Hope they bloom all summer.

    Reply
  118. Etta St John - May 15, 2012 at 10:42 am

    I had nursey plant my mandevilla in a pot with
    a trellis. They wound several of the vines
    around the trellis. The leaves at the bottom
    look great and have flowers. However, the leaves at the top look limpy. Should I cut
    the vines back to the area where the leaves look ok, or simply leave it as it is?

    Hi Etta
    The linky leaves on top may be new growth that hasn’t hardened off. Unless they are wilted an dying, I would leave them as Mandevilla blooms from the new growth. Move the plant to a shaded area until the new growth firms up.

    Reply
  119. Julia - May 16, 2012 at 8:04 pm

    Leaf drop
    Hello,
    3 weeks ago I bought a crimson mandevilla in Ikea, and within a few days it started losing leaves. On the 2nd week the flowers and many of the leaves completely dried and fell off, and now I’m left with about 1/3 of the leaves…
    I keep it indoors, on a windowsill. I water it about 3 times a week, and when I touch the soil on the remaining days it’s not dry – it feels slightly moist but not wet. The bottom of the pot is not wet either. What did I do wrong? \":(\"

    Hi Julia
    Your mandevila may have been overwatered and is suffering from root rot. Too much moisture in the soil restricts air flow and root growth. The roots die resulting in less roots to feed the leaves. Consequently. the plant drops its leaves.
    Since it is indoors, water less- wait until the top 2 inches of soil are dry. If possible, move it outdoors for the summer where it can get more sun.

    Reply
  120. Patsy - May 24, 2012 at 6:02 am

    Hi, I bought a new mandevilla just the other day and repotted it and watered it.
    Not the Blooms that were on it are droopy and the leaves are droopy and it seems like it is not doing well at all.
    It is under a porch and not in full sun all day but in the afternoon it gets a few hours.
    Do you think I have overwatered it? The leaves are also turning yellow.
    Please help! I love Mandevillas!

    Hi Patsy
    Repotting a blooming plant can take its toll on the flowers and leaves. Yellowing leaves can be a symptom of overwatering or some kind of root damage. Allow your mandevilla to dry out a bit before you water again.

    Reply
  121. Cathy - May 27, 2012 at 7:49 am

    Repot mandevilla
    I just bought a beautiful potted mandevilla and was wondering if I should repot it to a larger pot. Do they prefer to be root bound? If I transplant it will regular potting mix work? Thank you.

    Hi Cathy
    Mandevilla does not need to be pot bound to bloom. If the roots are coming out of the pot and look crowded transplant it to a larger pot that is 1-2″ larger. Use a well drained potting soil and try not to disturb the roots too much. After transplanting, move the plant into shade for a few days.

    Reply
  122. robin - May 27, 2012 at 5:21 pm

    Petal blight
    I purchased a white mandevilla last week. It has numerous flowers but the petals are turning brown and the flowers are falling off. Fortunately, I separated it from my other two which do not have this problem. Help please.

    Robin

    HI Robin
    Try not to get water on the flowers. Moist weather can cause on fungal disease called petal blight. Too much sun exposure can also scorch the flowers causing the petals to turn brown.

    Reply
    1. robin - May 30, 2012 at 11:18 am

      Petal blight treatment
      We have had rain almost daily for weeks, I would not be at all surprised if this was the problem. How to I handle petal blight organically?
      Thanks for the quick reply.
      Robin

      Hi Robin
      A sulfur/copper based fungicide will work on petal blight and help control its spread. It changes the ph of the plant making a hostile environment for botrytis to thrive. Spray every 7-10 days. Follow label instructions as to use. Also avoid overhead spraying, good air circulation around the plant and water early in the day. Sanitation is also important-remove any disease parts so that it doesn’t continue to re-infect the plant.

      Reply
  123. becky hamblin - June 3, 2012 at 9:51 am

    My mandevilla buds but the buds don’t open, start to rot and drop off. Morning sun, and last year in the same place did fine until scaley stickey stuff appeared late summer.
    Thanks.

    Hi Becky
    One problem that can occur on flower buds is botrytis caused by hot humid weather. A sulfur/copper based fungicide will work on petal blight and help control its spread. It changes the ph of the plant making a hostile environment for botrytis to thrive. Spray every 7-10 days. Follow label instructions as to use. Also avoid overhead spraying, good air circulation around the plant and water early in the day. Sanitation is also important-remove any disease parts so that it doesn’t continue to re-infect the spray.

    Reply
  124. Robin - June 5, 2012 at 8:47 am

    I recently purchased 2 Mandevillas and will need to bring them in for overwintering. I don’t want too large of a pot since I will have to bring it indoors so I don’t know how large of a pot is required?

    Hi Robin
    Your mandevilla will not be growing to much over the winter but you should get a pot large enough to accomodate the roots. Depending on how large they are, a 10-14″ pot might work.
    Are they currently growing in pots or soil? If they are in pots, keep them in the same container over the winter and repot the following spring.

    Reply
  125. LIsa Edwards - June 7, 2012 at 6:51 am

    My red mandevilla’s started off with beautiful deep red flowers, and now the flowers look washed out, and loosing color. leaves are fine. Plant has part sun, plenty of water and has added fertilizer. Please help?

    Hi Lisa
    too much direct sun will tend to fade the flowers.

    Reply
  126. Carol S - June 13, 2012 at 12:25 pm

    My mandevillas are really doing well but I noticed yellow stuff on the offshooting vines. Are these bugs or pollen? Bad or good. Do I need to do anything to them?

    Hi Carol
    I’m not sure what that is. It’s possible that it is pollen from a flower. Is this yellow stuff sticky?

    Reply
  127. Faye Badgero - June 17, 2012 at 9:25 am

    I have grown Mandevilla’s sucessfully for the past 5 years, until this year. Some of the leaves are brown and dry along the edges and the pink flowers are white along the edges of the petal. The flowers are a lot smaller in size too. Can you suggest a remedy?
    Thank you for this site.
    Faye

    Hi Faye
    Not sure what is going on. My guess is that it’s growing conditions. Hot dry weather perhaps?

    Reply
    1. Faye Badgero - June 18, 2012 at 1:11 pm

      I should have added that I did use a different soil this year. Suppose to be comparable to the Miracle grow stuff. I am also fertilizing with the miracle grow every 2 weeks. I have it planted in a big pot outside and it has been outside since shortly before Memorial Day here in Wi. Weather has been favorable here.

      Hi Faye
      It may be too much of a good thing. Try reducing the fertilizing to once a month or use a bloom boost instead. Browning edges on leaves can be an indicator of over fertilization or poorly drained soil. Some of the “miracle grow” type of soil already has some fertilizer in it and if you are adding more it may be too much.

      Reply
    2. elayne angel - June 27, 2012 at 9:07 am

      my scarlet mandevilla’s are in pots. we live in southern california in the coastal range. they are 5 years old. moved them a month ago to their morning sun position and began feeding and watering. new growth began very shortly thereafter.

      now lots of strong new growth and the beginnings of flowers BUT all the older growth has yellowing veins and drop off. this is the reverse of Rachael’s problem.

      one garden specialist said needs iron. the older guy says over watering. i slowed down the watering and the leaf yellowing got worse! should i give it my camelia food or repot or flush the pots? HELP!

      Hi Elayne
      Are the veins yellow or the area between the veins? Since you are feeding it, your mandevilla may be shedding some of its older leaves.

      Reply
      1. ELAYNE ANGEL - June 29, 2012 at 12:08 pm

        The veins are green and rest of leave is yellow. i thought virus, but then decided to give it camellia food. seems to have helped. oh, and i also flushed the pots to get rid of some accumulated salts. the yellow leaves were actually part of the new growth. just yellow leaves immediately followed by strong new growth.

        Hi Elayne
        Fertilizing was a good call. They loose lots of nutrients when growing in a pot and through watering. Most likely your mandevilla is lacking a nutrient. Possibly, iron or magnesium. You can provide both by fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer that also contains micronutrients. Lack of nitrogen would be indicated by yellow older leaves.

        Reply
  128. Amanda - June 29, 2012 at 1:45 pm

    Hello:
    My Crimson Mandevilla was beautiful when I first received it about 5 weeks ago as a gift. It was very lush with thick, waxy, dark green leaves and plenty of hearty crimson blossoms. I’t in the sun half the day and shade the rest. I definitely think I did a few things wrong including overwatering it and also spritzing the whole plant lightly with water a few times. I don’t have it up against a lattice yet as it’s still in the orginal pot and just up against a fence. Before I had the chance to let it dry out (from the overwatering) the leaves started to change color with some yellow showing up in the middle, along the veins, and the texture of the leaves became sort of rough. A lot of leaves actually turned brown and fell off and the blossoms have turned dark and fallen off as well…not all of them but most of them. I noticed that spiders have moved into a lot of flowers as it appears to be a good place for them to put a small web. Also, some of the leaves appear to be changing shape overnight with one side of the leaf losing it’s regular curve and having a new “S” like shape instead. I do plan on getting the lattice set up ASAP as the top parts of the plant are too heavy to stay up on their own and seem to be suffering because of this and getting very weak and droopy. I really loved the original look of this plant and would like to restore it to it’s initial beauty if possible. I don’t know if I just overwatered it or if something else is going on. Help! Thanks : )

    Hi Amanda
    Sorry you’re having a difficult time with your mandevilla. The best thing you can do for your overwatered mandevilla is to let the soil dry out. Make sure the container has holes for the water to drain. Transplanting it into fresh soil would be the best, but it would be stressful. Do you plan to plant it in the ground? It might survive the winter in So. Cal.
    It doesn’t sound like there is an insect problem but check the underside of the leaves closely for scale or spider mites. The spiders shouldn’t be a problem, its the tiny ones that are hard to see that cause plant damage (spider mites).

    Reply
  129. Vicky Anderson - July 2, 2012 at 10:25 am

    Encourage blooming after wintering
    I bought my plant last year. It bloomed all summer. I brought it in for the winter. I’ve taken it back outside this spring, I’ve fertilized with bloom burst. The leaves look healthy and there are vines growing but there are no signs of blooms. We live in Mo. Help.

    Hi Vicky
    They can be slow to start blooming the second year after wintering over. Mandevillas bloom on new growth. They need to put on good healthy growth early in the season in order to initiate blooming. Did you repot the plant this year? If the plant was potbound from last years growth, it can put on some new growth which may not be as vigorous as it should be consequently, spindly growth will not bloom well.
    After winterizing your mandevilla, it’s a good idea to trim back the foliage by 1/3, repot it in a slightly larger pot with fresh soil or trim the roots and topdress with fresh soil. Make sure you fertilize every two weeks. Try a bloom boost to help encourage flowering.

    Reply
  130. Tonimac - July 4, 2012 at 8:53 am

    So no one has any answers for Tonimac? I forgot to mention that I planted in the ground because my son was so disappointed I didnt have planted in the ground. THought I would just dig up and put in pot for the winter months.

    Hi Tonimac
    You can dig it up and store it for the winter. See Wintering mandevilla

    Reply
  131. Kary - July 14, 2012 at 7:15 am

    Hi, We bought a white and red Mandevilla a month or so ago and planted them in the ground in the corner of our yard with a nice trellis, used a good Mirical grow soil when we planted them. They get good drainage, but it has been very hot and dry here so been watering everyother day. (we live in south Texas, been in the 100’s) Planted both the same, in same corner across from each other to fill the corner. Now the white one seems to be dieing. Part of it just lost all its leaves, and turned brown, part of it looks ok and trying to put on blooms, but then some is starting to get yellow leaves. The red one looks great. Did we water to much thinking it was to dry, they are in full sun, is it just to hot on them. What do you think

    Reply
    1. Diane - July 18, 2012 at 5:30 am

      Did anyone find out what the “yellow stuff” on the stems towards the ends of the branches is? I do not think pollen because it is too far away from the blossoms. I’ve been cutting them off. Plant seems healthy.

      Can you send a picture? send to Kris@hortchat.com

      Reply
  132. robin - July 19, 2012 at 5:39 am

    I want to keep my mandevillas comfortable in 12″ pots as I cannot pick them up to bring them indoors in the larger pots. How do I keep them from becoming root bound and how can I control their growth? Should I clip the roots periodically? I also need to control their height. They begin to produce leaves in Feb. Wouldn’t it be best to prune them back by 1/3rd.in the fall? Sorry about so many questions. Thank you. Robin

    Reply
    1. Werner - July 28, 2012 at 4:15 pm

      Hi Kary 1
      Yes, every other day is/was to much of a good thing. wait until the leaves start to droop and then use water sparingly.

      Reply
  133. http://tinyurl.com/clerbrian47453 - January 11, 2013 at 11:32 am

    Many thanks for posting “Mandevilla”. I personallymay really wind
    up being coming back for alot more reading and commenting soon.
    Thanks, Beatriz

    Reply
  134. Kenna - January 16, 2013 at 7:30 pm

    My mandevilla has lost almost all its leaves in a matter of a few days. I have had it about 6 weeks and I transplanted it and situated it according to directions. I have been letting it dry out between waterings. It never flowered, just kind of sat there, and then some leaves dried up and fell off and others just fell off. I don’t see any evidence of fungus or bugs (no bumps, spots or webs). I have cleaned up all the leaves and cut the dead vines back. Did I just get a worn out old plant that was ready to die?

    HI Kenna
    A number of things could have happened. The plant may not be getting enough sunlight indoors and therefore starts to shed it’s leaves and go dormant. If that’s the case, place it in a dark place and water once a month until early spring. Water just enough to keep the roots from totally drying out. If the roots are alive you should see some new growth when temperatures get warmer. Once you see new growth, move it to a sunny window.

    Reply
  135. Kendra - February 13, 2013 at 8:40 am

    HELP!!! My Grandmother gave me this beautiful crimson red mandevilla and it bloomed and had beautiful dark green vines and leaves this past summer. This winter I had it in an outside room and I assume it got too cold and I brought it in the house, its leaves were droopy and brownish green, I watered it, now its leaves have dried out and are falling off, I repotted it in hopes that this would help, is it dead? can I save it? Please HELP!!!!

    Hi Kendra
    It is normal for the leaves to brown and drop after exposure to cold temperatures. Your mandevilla may still be alive and has gone dormant. When in a dormant stage, store it in a warm garage or cool basement with temperatures around 45-55F. Cut it back to about 12 inches above the soil line. Treat for insects if needed. Keep it dry but not completely dry. Once a month, check for soil moisture, you don’t want the soil to dry out completely during the winter. For more info see http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

    Reply
  136. Jack - July 17, 2013 at 12:39 pm

    Would a Blackeyed Susan vine or a Mandevilla be best to us as a groundcover for my septic tank mound?

    Hi Jack
    Black eyed Susan vine is an annual and will grow quickly and will reseed itself. Mandevilla will grow a bit slower. Both will have to be replanted each year. You might also consider a perennial vines such as; hops, Virginia creeper (parthenocissus quinquefolia), Porcelain vine (fast grower) and Five leaf Akebia

    Reply
  137. Robert - July 29, 2013 at 1:21 pm

    Hi, I have two Mandevilla plants potted separately. One is doing great and the other looks sad, droopy and the flowers are not opening. They both are on the same water feeding system. What should I do.

    Hi Robert
    It’s not unusual for this to happen where one plant grows better than another. All plants are not equal.
    It can be genetics-one plant is hardier/healthier than the other. Growing conditions can be a factor such as one plant was stressed more often due to overwatering or underwatering. A variation of sun exposure will also make a difference as to whether the plant will bloom and how much water it will use up. The plant with more sun will bloom more and use more water. You may want to water the droopy plant less and see what happens.

    Reply
  138. Sherrill - August 16, 2013 at 12:23 pm

    Any-time I touch my Mandevilla vine that end dies. It seems very healthy and is bushing out. I have to touch it to guide it onto the trellis. I don’t get it?

    Hi Sherrill
    The new growth on Mandevilla is delicate and perhaps when to guide it through a trellis it gets damaged. Wait until the vine toughens up a bit before you try to manipulate it on the trellis.

    Reply
  139. Erin Leedom - August 31, 2013 at 12:33 pm

    Winter over mandevilla
    Hi, I have a beautiful Giant White Sun Parosol in a pot and it is wrapped around a very tall post. It is very happy and growing very fast. How do I protect it from the winter conditions. Do I bring this big plant indoors? It is very, very tall. I have only had it since spring. Is thier a way to protect it and still leave it out side?

    Hi Erin
    The only way to keep your mandevilla outdoors is if you live in a tropical climate zones 9-11. See http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla for tips and info on Wintering your mandevilla.

    Reply
  140. Ernie - October 27, 2013 at 8:26 am

    I live in south new jersey what do I feed my mandevilla vine when they are outside and what do I feed them inside

    Hi Ernie
    To maintain a healthy blooming plant, feed it every other week with a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) in the spring and summer. In winter, treat it like a houseplant. There’s no need to fertilize indoors during the winter as they will not grow much due to low light conditions. The growth it may produce will be spindly and weak. Resume feeding in late winter when they start to show signs of new growth. more info see http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

    Reply
  141. Tammy - November 14, 2013 at 12:59 pm

    My mandevilla has large seed pods this fall. I winter it over inside and it blooms all winter. Should I cut the seed pod off to keep it’s focus on blooming Thanks Tammy

    Hi Tammy
    If you want to save the seeds, leave the seed pods on so they mature. You can also remove some pods and leave one or two. Otherwise remove them. The plant will focus on more blooms when it doesn’t have seed pods.
    Keep in mind that Mandevilla will bloom less in winter due to lower light conditions.

    Reply
  142. barbara - November 30, 2013 at 12:33 pm

    hi. i have a mandevilla i got in ohio and brought it down to florida in orlando area. it stays very warm all winter here. i have it outside and it is getting very leggy and no flowers. there are long tube-like things growing on it now. are these seed pods?? how can i get it to grow flowers?,
    thank you!

    Hi Barbara
    The tube-like things may be seed pods. If the have some color, they are the flowers.

    Reply
  143. Jacqueline - May 30, 2014 at 1:09 pm

    Hi! I recently bought a mandevilla plant and I was thinking of planting it outside next to my porch so it can grow tall and attach itself with the pole. Before this, I was researching what fertilizers & vitamins to buy so it can grown beautifully. However, I’m not sure if this type of plant fits well outdoors. Can I plant it outdoors all year long? I live in Los Angeles, CA. Thank you in advance!

    Reply
  144. elizabeth - May 30, 2014 at 7:01 pm

    I live in south Texas by the gulf of mexico so it gets VERY hot here in the summer. I keep my mandevilla outside and water it frequently it is growing nicely and very healthy. However I’m going on vacation for three weeks and don’t have anyone who can water it for me while I’m away. Would the plant be better inside during this time so its not totally going to dry out in the heat? Or is it OK to be left outside? I don’t want to come home to a dead plant!

    Hi
    Your chances of the plant surviving will be much greater if it is indoors while you are on vacation.

    Reply
  145. linda - June 19, 2014 at 3:24 pm

    hi, I really need your help!… please…
    Recently I received a mandevilla, it was so healthy and it really looked great!
    I honestly followed all the instructions provided for taking care of my red awesome mandevilla!….but:
    on the second day it started to loose its buds!… that was really sad!…
    gradually, day after day, its flowers started to fade!… but there was some hope left: some buds were opening!…
    after that, some leaves stated to go yellow. I knew that could be a sign of being over-watered so I reduced the amount of water I was giving. But didn’t look like being any help!… because the leaves were continuing on going yellow… wilting… and then… falling!…
    I raised the amount of water to the primary amount… again, it was no useful!…
    and now, it’s approximately a month passed from when I first met my unique mandevilla….. I can say there is nothing left from that showing off, inspiring feature!… nothing but some wooden branches and stem.
    Hopefully all branches are flexible, I mean when you try to break it or snap it, it will not break or snap. So my mandevilla is alive! but I don’t know how to help it to grow, to blossom!..
    please, please help me before it’s too late!…………….

    Hi Linda
    Your mandevilla needs to go outside. Mandevilla is a tropical plant, like heat and humidity which it may not be getting indoors. It needs lots of sun and well drained soil. Be sure that when you water, that the water drains out of the bottom of the pot. Give it a dose of fertilizer, water it well and then wait until the top 1 inch is dry before watering again. It will require more water when its outdoors and in hot weather.

    Reply
  146. linda - June 19, 2014 at 3:39 pm

    (I just wanted to add:
    I have my mandevilla in a container and it’s behind a window with a transparent curtain.)

    Reply
  147. Leslie - June 20, 2014 at 7:25 am

    HI. Reading through I noticed that almost every one has their mandevilla In pots. I have a pink one In a hanging basket on my deck. It gets a couple hours of sun and the rest In shade. I live In AR and the summers get very hot here. I do water deeply every couple of days and mist once In early morning and again In early evening. It’s getting happier by the day. Is there anything special I need to do with It? Thanks.

    Hi Leslie
    Most mandevilla are grown in containers because they are tropical plant therefore not hardy in most parts of the country. Sounds like your plant is doing great. You probably don’t have to mist it especially in the evening. Be sure to feed it once a month for continued flower production.

    Reply
  148. Sherylene g - June 28, 2014 at 2:08 pm

    Hello

    I have a white sun parasol , but the branches are mainly brown and brittle. Also it’s lacking leaves…

    How do I fix this?

    Thanks in advance

    Hi Sherylene
    It sounds like its dead. Cut back the dried brittle stem close to the soil line and see if it will sprout anything from the roots.

    Reply
  149. Leslie - June 29, 2014 at 8:06 am

    Thank you very much for the reply. I do have a quick question. Do Mandeville’s bloom off and on through the summer or do they bloom continually? The blooms are declining a bit so can I assume It’s taking a rest In-between bloom cycles? I did just fed some bloom bloom boost just the other day. It seems like only one side has been blooming only. Thanks.

    Hi Leslie
    Mandevilla can bloom all summer long under optimal growing conditions. Sometimes they will slow down and “regroup” when they lack nutrients, or if there’s a watering issue-like not enough or too much. Bloom boost should stimulate blooming.I have seen it bloom profusely in early summer and then slow down in hot summer heat when it’s in a container. The plant’s roots become stressed from the heat and there’s usually less soil to insulate the roots..

    Reply
  150. Sherry - July 10, 2014 at 7:56 pm

    Sorry I didn’t described it more properly

    It have leaves at the top and the tip of the vine has flowers and leaves but very sparse

    Also the tip with flowers are green in color

    Also now the flowers and leaves have some brown spots. \":(\"

    Is there still a chance to make my plants lush?

    Reply
  151. Sherylene - July 11, 2014 at 5:51 pm

    My plant is woody at the bottom but green leafy and viny at the top with flowers

    Flowers and leaves have brown spots and it’s exposed to full light

    How do I make it more fuller with leaves and flowers?

    Hi Sherylene
    Mandevilla vine can get sparse at the base as it vines. Brown spots may be a sign of a leaf spot disease which can be caused by wet, humid conditions. Avoid spraying the plant with water. Leaf spots are caused by a fungus or bacteria. Try treating it with a copper-based spray which should work on both. For a fungal leaf spot (Cercospera and Cornyspora) a fungicide like Neem should keep the disease from spreading.
    You can try trimming the plant back to make it grow fuller. Unfortunately you will also be cutting off the flowers.

    Reply
  152. Sherylene - July 22, 2014 at 1:08 pm

    Is my mandevilla plant going to die?

    I accidently damaged 1 of the thick root from my mandevilla when I removed it from the pot. Now the leaves are tiny and yellow…

    If it’s transplant shock , will it die or will it grow back ?:(

    Hi Sherylene
    It should have more than 1 root so it can grow more roots. Give it time to recuperate from the damage.

    Reply
  153. Roo - August 11, 2014 at 5:31 am

    I read your comments about yellowing leaves due to need for nitrogen. I’ve been using a 0-10-10 fish fertilizer for blooms, so no nitrogen (I bought this for my amaryllis and thought it would help all my blooming plants) Do you have any suggestions about how to correct? Just add a balanced fertilizer?? Thanks for any help.

    Hi Roo
    You need leaf production in order to get flowers. Is your mandevilla blooming?

    Reply
  154. Kimberly Box - September 28, 2014 at 3:30 pm

    Help!! My beautiful mandevilla vine was infested with aphids. I sprayed with water and soap mixture. The bugs have died but Damage I’d done. Where the bugs were the stems are turning black. Leaves are dying and dropping off vine. Should I cut them back? I’m just sick at how my once full plant is now extremely thin.

    HI
    You can trim the blackened stems back. It should put on some lateral growth. When spraying a plant with any insecticide make sure the plant is not exposed to full hot sun, move it to a shaded area for the day or spray in the evening. The combination of spray and direct sun can burn the leaves especially new growth. In addition, all dish soaps are not the same so you’re better off using an insecticidal soap that is formulated for plants.

    Reply
  155. Valerie - October 12, 2014 at 2:41 pm

    Hi. I have a Mandevilla Trellis plant which I planted this spring. It is doing very well but now that fall if here, I’m wondering if I need to prepare it for the winter. I live in an area with a hardiness zone of 6a. The plant is too big to bring indoors. Is there anything in particular that you recommend to increase its chance of surviving the winter? Thank you.

    HI Valerie
    See wintering mandevilla article for the info you need.

    Reply
  156. Leslie - October 25, 2014 at 8:06 am

    Good morning. Since my last post I have pruned and brought my mandevilla In. I have It In front of a sunny window which gets about 3 hours of sun and In the evening gets some artifical light. I have just cut off all the vines for now and It’s losing a few leves mostly the tiny ones. Its still looking green and healthy. Will It make It over the winter In this location? Thank you.

    Hi Leslie
    Three hours of sun is not enough to maintain your mandevilla. If that’s the best you have then wait and see what happens. If the plant drops all its leaves, then it will go dormant for the winter. Place it in a cool spot and water once a month just enough to keep the soil from totally drying out. In late winter, bring it back to a sunny window and start watering to get new growth. for more info see

    Reply
  157. Tomato Ph Of Miracle Grow Potting Soil Rebate - October 25, 2014 at 12:16 pm

    […] Mandevilla – Hort Chat – HI. Reading through I noticed that almost every one has their mandevilla In pots. I have a pink one In a hanging basket on my deck. It gets a couple hours of sun and …… […]

    Reply
  158. susieq1984 - November 1, 2014 at 8:07 pm

    I live in Georgia and our night time temps are hovering around 42. I am going to bring my beautiful Mandevilla plants in . Should I cut these back now or is it safe to wait until Spring ? Thank you for such a wonderful site for information !

    Hi Susie
    Either way, if your mandevilla is large and needs to be trimmed to fit indoors,then trim it. Otherwise wait until late winter/early spring. Cut it back by 1/3.

    Reply
  159. Leslie - January 1, 2015 at 12:25 pm

    Happy new Year to all. I hope this question doesn’t sound strange. I have my mandevilla In dormancey but about mid December It started to show signs of grow and now I have vines growing. I keep It on the dry side and in a cool section in my sun room. Is early growth like this common? Should I cut back the ne growth or leave It alone?

    Hi Leslie
    My mandevilla did the same thing. I’m going to trim it soon. Ideal pruning time is Jan/Feb for May bloom. If the vines are getting too long and stringy cut them off now to make your plant more manageable. It is common for new growth to start again in late winter.

    Reply
  160. Leslie - January 20, 2015 at 1:03 pm

    Thank you very much for the Info. I’m not sure if there’s enough to trim back so I’ll wait a bit longer. What do I do with braches that are bare and look dead. Will they start to sprout or am I to assume they should be trimmed off? Thanks again

    Hi Leslie
    In your case, since there is little growth, I would leave it alone for now. You can always trim it in late spring when you set it outside. The bare branches if alive and healthy may sprout new growth. Cut off any dead dried up stems.

    Reply
  161. Melissa - June 11, 2015 at 5:16 am

    I have three big beautiful mandevilla in containers outside in lots of light and warmth. They are big and green with out a single flower. How do I get the to flower?

    Hi Melissa
    Sounds like your mandevilla are very happy and prefer to continue growing rather than blooming. It may need more time to mature before it decides to bloom. Are you fertilizing them? If you do make sure you use a fertilizer that has a high middle number (P) than the first number (N). Also, the magnesium in Epsom salt (1 tsp. dissolved in water) has been known to stimulate bloom.

    Reply
  162. Laura - June 27, 2015 at 3:04 pm

    Hi,
    My mother brought me a red mandevilla home from Florida to nj. She cut it back as she thought it was getting too big for her house and it stopped flowering as she kept it inside for a month. She gave it to me mid May and I immediately planted it. It is now the end of June and it is growing like crazy but not one sign of a bloom. It gets plenty of sun and water, and it looks very healthy.

    What can I do to make it bloom?

    Hi Laura
    Sometimes mandevilla need a kick to get blooming. They bloom on new growth. It may just need to mature to start blooming.
    Are you fertilizing it? If so make sure that the middle number (Potassium) is higher than the first (Nitrogen). The middle number promotes bloom whereas to much nitrogen will give you lots of green growth and no flowers. Try epsom salt 1 tsp mixed in water every 2 weeks for a month or bloom boost. Otherwise, give it time to start blooming.

    Reply
  163. Vanessa - July 10, 2016 at 6:09 pm

    Hello. A few weeks ago I bought a alice du pont mandevilla. It was doing great it grew real nice and new flowers were blossoming. It is in a pot, with a hole, so the water drains out. Recently, about a few days ago it got real sad, so I moved it to where it could get a bit more shade than before, since it gets over 100°. I put miracle grow, but still no change. The roots feel somewhat hollow and the vines a drooping, like they’re sad. I’m worried about my plant. Please help. How can I make it better? I still think there could be some hope. Thank you.

    Hi Vanessa
    I’m not sure what happened to your mandevilla. Keep it in the shade until the weather cools, do not fertilize, and make sure the soil dries out a bit before you water again. Be careful not to overwater. One good way is the weight test. If the pot is heavy and soil is moist then it has plenty of water. When the pot feels light, then it’s time to water again.Hope it recovers.

    Reply
  164. Tracey - June 30, 2017 at 8:38 am

    I have a yellow mandevilla and the buds are rotting at the base where its attached to the plant. What causes this?

    Hi Tracey
    It may be from too much water [overwatering].
    What you have is an Allamanda, looks similar only has yellow trumpet shaped flowers. They do like lots of water but if the soil stays constantly wet and is not allowed to dry out, it will lead to root rot or some other fungal disease.Be sure it is in well drained soil that is allowed to dry out.

    Reply
  165. Joanne Cochrane - July 11, 2017 at 1:56 pm

    Hi, I’m in Michigan. My Mandevilla is very healthy w/flowers but it’s all in clump w/a very few vines. I have a beautiful trellis but it doesn’t seem to like it. What can I do?

    Hi Joanne
    Give your mandevilla some time to grow. It should eventually start to vine. However, there is a newer type developed for hanging baskets that specifically grows in a clump and bushy. Perhaps that’s what you have.

    Reply
  166. Robert - April 3, 2018 at 2:46 pm

    Hi mine loves the trellis it died back over the winter and produced 3 fruits, are they safe to eat? If not I can always get more seeds from them. I have a yellow one with the shinny leaves.

    Reply
  167. Lynn Wheeldon - April 25, 2020 at 3:08 pm

    I’m in Zone 9 in north central Florida. I bought a mandevilla last year and put it in a large pot in my garden. It was not getting enough sun. This Spring, I transplanted it to a larger pot and moved it onto the patio where it gets at least six hours of sun. I fertilize every couple weeks: with plan fertilizer and then with acid-loving plants fertilizer and then with bloom booster. I finally see the first yellow bloom! However, every day my plant drops about five or six healthy looking green leaves. These leaves are not turning yellow and there is no spot on them. What am I doing wrong?

    Reply
  168. Darlene - April 11, 2021 at 3:09 pm

    I live in PA. I have a mandevilla that was beautiful last summer. I cut it back to bring it inside for the winter. It was getting new green vines growing, but after I put it back outside when the weather was nice, it now looks like it is dead. It still has a few green leaves, but the stems are brown. What happened?

    Reply

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