译者

最高评分

档案

梅塔

圣诞仙人掌

圣诞仙人掌

一个比较流行的开花植物在假期前后是仙人bridgesii称为圣诞仙人掌 它提供了丰富的管状花朵,盛开的2到4周左右圣诞节。

圣诞仙人掌

来自巴西,这仙人掌生活在丛林中的树木和不同于沙漠中的仙人掌 ,这是落后型,并且不需要阳光直射。 有时可分不清哪些类型的仙人你。 圣诞仙人掌已夷为平地叶扇贝边利润率是顺利和骨气与肾小管3英寸的花朵,而不是感恩仙人掌 (兰截断) (南截)蟹,仙人掌已急剧齿边有两个大的牙齿结束时的一次联席会议上每个分支。 短管花蔓延指出花瓣。 为了增加这种混乱也有复活节仙人掌 ( Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri )更加直立生长,具有纤维毛在关节和产生不同的花卉。 这是比较困难的一个增长。 所有盛开接近各自的假期在正常生长条件。

圣诞仙人掌保健

不仅是这些仙人掌如此受欢迎,因为它们壮观的开花习性,而且还因为它们比较容易照顾。 他们需要丰富,排水良好的土壤,明亮的间接光,白天温度为70摄氏度,夜间温度为60-65 。 饲料用平衡室内化肥4月和10月之间。 圣诞仙人掌不耐旱。 水植物彻底,让他们干之间浇水。 不要忽视它,或杀死它与厚爱。 树叶将皱纹如果土壤过于干燥,在浇水时可导致根腐病。 水少的冬天。 修剪的植物在夏天,鼓励更多的分支的挤压,在关节。

植物的开花植物保持温和湿润(不能太湿) 。 如果叶片获得跛行和松弛您可能overwatering工厂。 把工厂的强光和高温( 60 - 70F ) 。 太多光褪色的花朵。 不要使他们直接热,冷草案或移动工厂周围因为这可能会导致花芽下降。 施肥掉以轻心高钾肥时,芽的形式和继续下去,直到花褪色。 当植物开花不完成6周水让它休息。 早春,当新的增长开始出现恢复喂养和浇水。

Reblooming

少的努力和理解,人们可以重复开花进程年复一年。 有两个重要因素,鼓励芽形成1 。 漫长的夜晚-圣诞仙人掌至少需要14个小时黑暗的5-6周。 2 。 长期低温的50-55度的6个星期。 如果保持在55F ,一些圣诞仙人掌将布卢姆不论日照。 芽形成不会发生,如果温度高于70摄氏度。 让植物在干一边,直到你看到芽形式,然后恢复正常浇水和轻喂养。

让您的圣诞仙人掌一点爱与关怀,将蓬勃发展多年。 有人这样做,他们也已经知道,在家庭中流传下来的后代。

感恩仙人掌切割
干扦插可扎根,并开始为新的工厂。

  1. 圣诞树护理 无论您将自己或购买预切开圣诞树 ,答: ..
  2. 装饰与一品红 当你看到Poinsettias在店铺中你知道圣诞节是近 一品红植物 ...
  3. 住宿盆栽 我们圣诞仙人掌已扎根成长的土壤 ...
1 Star2 Stars3 Stars4 Stars5 Stars (尚无评分)
Loading ... 载入中...

64评论圣诞仙人掌

  • 金尼先生

    从插条生根

    需要咨询如何开始新的地雷。
    你怎么根圣诞仙人掌?

    从健康植株,采取干切削的2点58分加入部分

    让他们干出了几个小时,一天和植物中3 “盆栽土壤中混合50泥炭和50沙子或70 %的珍珠岩和30 %的泥炭。 发生在一个塑料袋,保持湿润(不湿)在温暖的阴影位置。 在4-6 你应该有新的根源和存在的迹象,应该是新拍摄的增长。 您也可以尝试水生根1剪报。 一旦开发植物根系在土壤以及排水盆栽组合。 插条生根最好采取春季和夏季。


    才能确定采取扦插现在( 9月)由我的圣诞catcus ,开始新的工厂,或将它干扰开花进程?

    除非你有一些中断的原因,采取扦插在这个时候( 9月) ,都会造成干扰开花过程。 随着天气转凉和更短的日子里,工厂应开始设置味蕾。 最好是采取扦插后开花。

    娄垃柠( mrlou3@ptd.net / )
    我爱的信息共享在这个网站,发现它回答我的问题。 但是我有一个问题。 我打算开始新工厂从我的仙人掌,从阅读您的答复我收集的最佳时间做到这一点是早春。 我捏了两节和植物他们的组合盆栽土壤所述。 我的问题是, 如何深入应的“切割”种植的组合?

    高新楼
    植物是1月1号至1号/ 2 “深,只要足以容纳切削在土壤中。 切割应产生根源的基础上(完)每一部分。

  • 南希礼帽

    我有一个圣诞仙人掌已变得像木头的原因 这怎么能解决吗? 是我那可怜的种植gonner ? 说明我真的很喜欢我的工厂

    木质茎的一部分老化。 您的植物不是gonner ,它会送新的枝条。 集成电路:圣诞仙人掌

  • 珍妮特

    我的圣诞仙人掌已经皱巴巴的树叶 。如何知道自己是否太干或以上浇水? ? ?

    圣诞仙人掌 (有点用词不当)是一个ephiphyte热带植物 ,喜欢生长在潮湿的丛林中。 不是因为宽容的干旱条件 ,典型的沙漠仙人掌。 这将枯萎(皱纹)在干旱的条件。 你可能underwatering它。 水顶端1inch土壤感到干燥。 在夏季,水,使土壤湿润,但不能连续湿。 让水渠从锅底。 水少了秋季和冬季。

  • 1月里德

    我的圣诞仙人掌 ,从我的祖母,已被壮观。 4英尺茎与数以百计的樱花每年两次激烈的申奥竞争。 但现在之所以死于以惊人的速度和几茎长于一十八英寸我不知道什么是错的。 他们开始变黄绿色和紫色,然后死去。 帮助!

    大旧工厂可以获得茎腐病 ,会导致部分干死了。 确保土壤依然是排水和水经过迅速,如果不是可能的时间repot 。 该工厂可盆栽约束和需要新鲜土壤。 当您repot等待一个星期之前浇水,使任何人受伤或茎根愈伤组织了以防止进一步的疾病。

  • 伊丽莎白罗密欧

    我可以延迟开花的仙人掌 ,把它放在一个黑暗的壁橱里。 芽已形成。 我太迟?

    为时已晚,一旦芽已形成了为时已晚。 芽formantion时启动天获得短,夜晚凉爽。 许多“圣诞Cactii ”真的感恩cactii感恩节左右开花。 你可以减慢布卢姆保持植物在更低的温度。

  • 德莎艾维

    叶降降

    帮助! 我的圣诞仙人掌充满了芽,现在它在移动后的部分退出。 # -4联合部分用干净的休息,在接头。 这难道还不足以从轻?

    这可能是压力有关 ,改变的环境中,太多的水,干热可能会导致叶片下降。 保持远离暖气通风口或冷草案。 检查的基础上干,看它是否是软的, “爱情” ,可以表明根腐病,在这种情况下,只有将新的剪报保存植物。 如果没有根腐病等到春天,它可能发出新的枝条。 千万不要overwater他们喜欢干的冬天。

  • 里克

    您好,我有一个圣诞仙人掌已形成水果,我已经受够了10年,这是我第一次看到了这一点。 该工厂是从一个朋友剪报这是流传她几代。 是水果食用?

    我不知道该果实可食用。 有吸引力的水果是1 “ ,并应留在工厂一年。 之后,您可以挑选并挤出了果冻的种子,让他们干的纸巾几天。 然后你可以播下种子在苗期混合产生新的植株。

  • 弗吉尼亚州阿龙

    我的新主人一个古老的圣诞仙人掌,不会开花;感谢你我有足够的信息以开始使用。 祝我好运。

  • 约翰阵雨

    我们保持我们的圣诞仙人掌内直接光没有太阳和它正在nothing.Got劝阻并把它外面-现在得到的间接光,我们的温度低30日的晚上和50 - 6 -的在天,及它是突然开花像疯了似的。 它在12月开始开花,目前仍在盛开。 有什么不同的是我应该做的还是离开的地方是。 请注意,我们的夏天去了100度-是它仍然可以离开的地方是什么?

    要小心,因此它没有获得“缺口”约50霜冻的夜间建议, 听起来很高兴您的工厂在哪里。 保护其免受酷热的夏天,把它放在阴凉处。

  • 以斯帖

    可以圣诞仙人掌种植在自我浇水盆栽。 我刚刚买了一个在几个星期大胡。 叶子正在寻找一些枯萎的自我浇水锅?

    很好的问题。 他们喜欢在干方在冬季和潮湿,排水良好的土壤在夏季。 因为他们是一个热带附生植物的坑下的树木在丛林中,他们将得到短暂的水雨,然后干涸。 我想良好的排水盆栽土壤将是更适合你的圣诞仙人掌。

  • 西尔维亚桑德斯

    我的圣诞Catcus已开花以来每年我有,但它并不期待健康的,因为已经把叶子。是否有某种方式来纠正这种或应该我只是不担心?

    叶片的转折点粉色 / 红色和枯萎可腐烂的迹象 。仔细敲工厂出罐和检查的基础上产生。 他们软和爱情? 如果确实如此,那么有一些腐烂。 降低腐烂回到健康的公司组织和repot 。 保持在干方在冬季。

  • 露西鲁德尼茨基

    水肿水肿

    我的圣诞仙人掌是heathy寻找,仍然开花。 我已经获得这些紫色水泡/颠簸最近的叶子,然后他们赤霉病的时候,他们的年龄。 这是什么? 的漏洞,我希望不是...帮助!

    这有可能是您可以浇水您的圣诞仙人掌太多。 颠簸,最终变成褐色corky增长可能是一个标志性水肿 这种环境条件发生时,工厂是overwatered 。 水正迅速行动叶子的植物,但不能散发它不够快导致细胞破裂。 骨折愈合的细胞,并制定corky褐色斑。 保持在干方,并确保它有足够的排水系统。

  • 刘慧卿奥尔森

    余救出一个圣诞仙人掌约4年前。 我不知道如何照顾它,我仍然有问题的。 我有我的一套房子气温约65F整天。 该工厂是坐在间接阳光南侧的房子。 它被水淹只有当它的土壤非常干燥。 4-5个月前我的一个猫轰下架和下跌4-5英尺的发言。 2-3 segements中断密切的根源,现在这些景点是2月3日在新的经济增长开始。 我真的很高兴,但我对这个刚刚似乎无法获得该植物开花无论我做什么。 我也受到它壁橱生活周并让它干出来。 我该怎么办?

    的主要因素越来越圣诞仙人掌开花是低温和漫长的夜晚。 他们绽放的日子时,获得短夜长。 在时代的花芽是55-60 6周.. 在更高的温度下,它们可以哄骗到开花的13小时。 不间断的黑暗。 最好的有两者兼而有之。 设置户外植物在阴凉地区在夏季并使其在今年秋天的天气凉,天是短。 它应该工作。

  • 雪利酒

    我如何移植圣诞猫

    仔细磕打根球从盆栽和再一锅在多孔的土壤结构,增加1部分泥炭或沙至3部分盆栽土壤混合。 您也可以使用盆栽组合肉质植物。 新壶应该大1英寸的排水孔。

  • Marcee

    当是最好的时间来重新锅圣诞仙人掌 矿山,我认为,越来越
    有点太大的锅。 我住在沙漠中,它热爱它的位置和间接光开花像疯了几个月。

    最佳时间repot是在春天时,工厂准备增加或之后再次开花。 Repotting在今年秋季可能扰乱开花周期由于压力所产生repotting 。

  • Darlene

    您好-谢天谢地有人似乎是一个圣诞仙人掌专家。 我也有一个情感的价值。 这是10岁-一直repotted几次多年来。 一直在室内。 今年夏天,我把外面下的门廊保护伞。 经过一个月或两个月,我发现的目的非常平整,开始转变为紫色。 余repotted -带回室内给它的位置,并经常修剪了一些紫色的括号内。 现在更多的是紫色/绿色,它似乎没有落实。 告诉我,我要和我就是这样做是错误的。

    紫色叶片听起来像一个矿产缺陷 这可能需要化肥供应两个主要养分以及微量元素。 秋天是一年的时间当您减少施肥,但在您的情况下,我想给它一个轻剂量的1 / 4的力量均衡可溶性肥料以满足这个饥饿的植物。 经过开花,让它进入休眠状态(不施肥) ,并开始喂养每月1 / 4力量肥料启动时,新的经济增长在初春继续通过初秋。

  • 南希波克

    多久圣诞仙人掌应保持在黑暗中,以帮助它开花? 我已经在一个完全黑暗的壁橱那里凉爽。 其已在壁橱约一个半月。 我不会把它出柜了。

    您好南希
    圣诞仙人掌需要大约14小时的黑暗和更低的温度。 的刺激,使它们开花是短期内和漫长的夜晚。 他们仍需要过滤的阳光在白天,所以你真的需要,以使您的工厂出柜白天。

  • 米歇尔卡尔文

    我有一个圣诞仙人掌 ,我分成一些干成其他花盆,使更多的植物。 它们似乎都将消失。 而不是越来越多了。 他们自己种植的仙人掌土壤。 我只水themwhen他们感到干燥。 可能是什么问题,为什么thery're看起来thery're没有增长?

    当他们分成? 在今年秋季? 难道他们有根系? 这是更好地划分植物早春前不言而喻的增长高潮。 您的工厂需要时间来建立一个良好的根系和冬季是一个缓慢的增长时期。 事实上,植物进入休眠期为3月下旬。 在冬季使他们的凉爽和干燥方面,远离热源或冷喷口草案。 初春开始饲料1 / 4力量肥料。

  • P拉特兰

    这些植物的安全,如果宠物或小孩吃?

    圣诞仙人掌被列为非有毒或具有毒性低的水平时,摄入少量。 如果大量食用,那么,可以引起呕吐,腹泻和精神抑郁症。

  • 艾琳哈格

    我的圣诞仙人掌完全芽...多久这些芽采取开放的爆裂盛开? 好像我看到这些诱人的色彩高峰为2个星期...我渴望为盛开!
    谢谢,张爱玲

    什么有时发生的情况是,芽形式,但由于某些原因,通常的环境,将坐在那里干或下降,而不是开放。 可能会发生这种情况时,房间过于干燥(低湿度)和温度过高。 要添加更多湿度在工厂把它放在卵石托盘水和雾工厂。 保持室内温度在65-70楼远离暖气通风口或冷草案。 一旦他们确定芽植物不喜欢移动。

  • 爱丽丝坎宁安

    我的圣诞仙人掌是由我的母亲给我的结婚礼物超过28年前。 它已经开发出了白色物质在每个联合和看上去很不高兴。 我可以将它保存? 它也蔓延到其他仙人掌。

    好像你可能有昆虫的问题。 是白色的东西蓬松棉和寻找? 如果是这样,您可能有粉错误 。看的的文章。

  • 克伦福涅尔

    昆虫问题
    我有一个非常庞大岁( 10年? )圣诞仙人掌已经有一些东西吃缓几个选择离开。 我已经试过了一些杀虫剂没有成功。 现在已经有白色苍蝇我不能摆脱。 这似乎是松树叶和没有盛开今年。 余补种定期是必要的。 帮助! 我喜欢这种植物

    是您的圣诞仙人掌户外? 粉虱很难昆虫摆脱室内。 一个安全的方法是挂黄色或蓝色的粘稠卡植物或股份,以吸引和陷阱的成人人口的粉虱。 粘卡可在花园中心。 千万不要触摸或得到您的衣服。 至于其他的年轻人口,喷雾装置及土壤表面与园艺石油。 重复治疗7-10天,直到你再也看不到昆虫。 将粉虱传播的植物工厂因此,你应该孤立布满植物。 我有我的鹿吃全厂只留下存根。

  • 埃尔默L约翰逊

    我想如果能够拯救我们的2圣诞仙人掌在夏季( 5月中旬
    中旬到11月) ,没有一个在这里。 我们生活在一个公寓的lania面临硒博尼塔斯普林斯佛罗里达州在冬季。
    我的概念是建立一个自动洒水系统,使他们面临的lania
    太阳但有遮荫的温和派数额直接的太阳。 他们本来有
    无人看管。 气温可能会达到低90年代在白天和
    湿度将是很高的。
    如果可行的话,多少水,他们往往需要以及如何? 感谢您的帮助
    您可以提供。

    您好李
    圣诞仙人掌是丛林植物一样温暖,湿润,半阴影区。 将难以生存的植物的拉奈所有单独与任何人照顾他们。 他们需要保护的热点中午阳光,需要施肥时,积极成长,最重要的是,需要适当浇水。 你不能使植物适应你浇水日程表-就像我们喝这样做时,口渴的植物。 有太多的变数考虑;圣诞仙人掌喜欢均匀湿润土壤,但需要干之间waterings 。 如果你有一个潮湿,多雨一周,然后将不需要多少水比作为一个热点,阳光星期。 我的建议是找到一个朋友谁是友好地照顾好你的植物或把他们与您联系。 如果这是不可行的,考虑当地的塑料大棚,看看他们将“ plantsit ”您的仙人掌象征性收费。

  • 雷切

    寒害

    数天前,我的圣诞仙人掌剩下的走廊和暴露于时代的低30岁。 通常是50-60度之间kepy 。 过去几天,小叶子和一些新的增长已经开始枯萎。 一些树叶期待确定。 是否有机会,其余的工厂,或将萎蔫传播的? 有什么我能做的部分仍然会出现健康?

    新的经济增长更容易受到寒冷的损害比成熟增长。 如果新的增长并没有收回或perked了春天的时间, 减少了细长增长(最多两个部分) ,其中将鼓励您的植物发出新的增长点,并作出充分的植物。 因为叶子枯萎您可能有一种倾向,水,但一定要保持植物在干方在其休眠期(六周从开花) ,否则可能会造成根腐病的问题。

    辛西娅克拉克
    我的仙人掌在我的前廊,我访问了一个生病的朋友在医院里我曾告诉我丈夫,使之内,因为那里将是一个冷却单元。 当我回到家是21度,他已忘记了我的仙人掌,它现在得到了真正的下垂并期待深绿冻结我猜想它有什么我能做的将其保存。 这是盛开。

    遗憾得知。 任何你可以做。 如果叶片获得软糊状然后他们被冻结。

  • 阿尔菲和玛丽亚

    我们有一个复活节仙人掌已制定了一项谭涂层底部的每个分支。 它不看木质,它不像照片我们看到的水肿。 我们还没有看到任何错误的。 (它已经失去了一些分行最近,但我们改变了我们的时间表,并浇水似乎帮助至于分行脱落。 )什么可这谭基地附近的呢? 有什么,我们需要做些什么?

    检查火炭区,看看是否干仍然坚定,而不是软海绵。 如果植物是健康的和坚定的则是刚刚成熟的组织,如果该工厂有软茎和期待多病那么您可能有真菌病 ,茎腐病镰刀菌冠腐病或枯萎腐烂这表明,布朗干组织中的下干的最终将杀死植物。 所有造成太多的水分。 如果您的工厂不断下降,需要一些剪报的健康部分,并开始新的工厂。 观赏浇水保持在干方在冬季。

  • 朱莉

    我收到了我的丈夫是大祖母的圣诞仙人掌。 他的母亲告诉我,她一直未能得到它盛开在过去的几年。 一切,因为我收到了我的一部分,仙人掌我无法得到增长。 起初,她是在一个巨大的盆景盆栽,我被告知repot到一个较小的锅。 我没有,我还是不能让植物生长。 它现在有一个木质期待蒸汽区。 我已阅读,您应该有沙子或苔藓混合物中。 我从来没有这样做。 我有这个工厂几乎2年。 我afarid说,这将是后期的。 我还可以将它保存? 我能做些什么才能正常的生长和开花? !

    该类型的土壤它所需要的是50 %和50 %泥炭沙子或任何以及混合土壤排水标准为25 %泥炭土或沙增加了土壤结构。 如果水渠自由那么就应该把它确定。 大多数出现的问题与圣诞仙人掌来自overwatering 。 让植物在干方和冷静,通过冬季摆脱直接Sun和暖气通风口因为它是在一个半休眠阶段。 它应该显示一些增长的迹象,在春天,当它给它一个轻量的平衡施肥,每月一次在生长季节。 如果你想做到这一点repot在春季。 您还可以采取一些剪报和根它们作出新的工厂。 木本干可成熟的组织或真菌病从太多的水分。 如果工厂没有迹象表明新的经济增长那么就可能会损害根腐病和您可能需要干的剪报。 见上述文章开花

  • 帼Granica

    我有一个旧的( 20 +岁) 圣诞仙人掌 这是大的, 3英尺的直径,并木质茎,是非常充分。 据快乐,成长,开花良好。 我通常把它外面的雨曾经在今年夏天这样的叶子可以清除灰尘和污垢。 我把它放在今年夏天,大约2周后,叶片开始脱落的巨大部分。 它没有repotted在10年,所以我repotted在recommened土壤到更大的锅。 这是非常根本的约束。 看来幸福在新的熔炉,但它仍然失去叶子。 叶子呈现出绿色和健康。 我恐怕最终将在Woody没有绿色的茎和叶。 难道这仅仅是我的压力或仙人掌只是老和死亡?

    它更可能是压力。 可能是您的仙人掌了太多的水。 但愿它没有根腐病也可以造成巨大的部分脱落。 检查的基础上产生的木本植物,如果是软糊状的那么你有根腐病如果不是然后让您的工厂恢复自己。 采取剪报(落叶)和根然后为新的工厂。

  • 罗宾

    我有一个白色圣诞仙人掌 ,这是浅绿色/黄色的颜色。 该工厂似乎是健康的和强有力的。 我想知道如果是在直接阳光太长了漂白? 我该如何纠正这种情况。 我已经把它在我的公寓(以及阴影天井) ,似乎不那么轻。 它开花和一切。

    对一些品种的叶子有点轻尤其是白色/粉红色的颜色。 把它放在一个阴影部分(如你没有) ,并应绿化一点。 受精后早春植物是休息(休眠) ,这可能也有帮助。

  • 罗宾

    很好奇你如何授粉圣诞仙人掌花,这样你就可以生产的种子

    是的,您可以花授粉时开始开花,是生产花粉。 采取小刷子和转让花粉的雌蕊(中心)的花。 你就会知道,如果发生在施肥的基础,花卉开始膨胀,形成一个吊舱。 吊舱将会迅速成熟,变成一个光明的粉红色1 / 2 “长,深褐色至黑色种子内。 有一些杂交不育。

  • 布伦达索撒尔

    花的颜色变化

    余继承我母亲的法律圣诞仙人掌工厂3年前。 当时一块脱落大约两年前,我rerooted它,后来另一块掉下来,我rerooted之一。 原来的红色花朵和其他两个,一个有白色花朵和其他有粉红色的花朵。 他们都是从红色。 所有正在做美丽。 我的问题是,为什么其他两个盛开的白色和粉红色?
    此致,布伦达索撒尔

    有时一个工厂将发出一个体育(突变) ,这将产生不同的叶或花的颜色。 改变花的颜色也可能引起越来越多的温度,光量,养分。

    休伊兰德斯( hlandes@verizon.com / )
    我开始削减从黄河圣诞仙人掌。 它做得很好,现在正在盛开的粉红色。 何处去的黄河

    根据单元我ext.Light和温度可能会影响颜色的花朵。 还较弱的基因恢复了粉红色的基因更占主导地位。 Cooler temperatures can enhance the color.

  • Robin

    I have light purplish-red growth on my Christmas Cactus. I have repotted it and checked the roots for root rot - Everything checked out ok. The plant seems healthy and bloomed like crazy this past season. I am wondering if it might be due to too much or lack of insufficient light.

    A Christmas cactus will develop reddish leaves when it gets too much sun. The purplish color on the leaves can be a sign of a nutrient deficiency such as phosphorous or manganese. When the plant shows signs of new growth, feed your plant with a balanced fertilizer that includes minor elements.

  • Johnna

    some of The leaves on my Christmas Cactus have turned a almost white color and get very limp . It got buds but they did not bloom just fell off. Hope you can help me.
    Thanks

    If the leaves are chlorotic (whitening) in the center of the plant - it may be due to low soil temperatures during the fall and winter. If the foliage turns a dull gray/green color and wilts, then you may have a pythium rot (stem rot) wich will cause abscission of the stems (stem drop).

  • Barbara

    I have my grandmother’s Christmas Catus. It is 50+ years old. I’ve had it for about 3 years - it has neither flowered or shown any growth. This Spring I put it outside for the first time - the leaves turned yellow and branches fell off. I believe that was from too much sun. I moved the plant into my screened in porch - repotted it and now it’s “stable” but not doing anything. What’s left is very woody branches about 6-8 inches long. It used to be huge. Is there anyway to save this plant - it means so much to me.

    Hi Barbara
    Check the woody branches - are the soft and spongy? If they are firm, then its mature stems that developed over time. Since you’ve had it for 3 yrs and it hasn’t shown any growth, then I suspect there is a root rot or dieback problem caused by either a bacteria or fungus. These can develop from keeping the plant to moist. If the stems are soft, dig up a section, check the roots. They may be dark , mushy and very sparse. There is no cure so try to save part of the plant by propagating it. Cut above the rotting portion to be sure all decay is removed and try to re-root the section to start a new plant. You can also cut off leaf (cladophylls) sections and re-root them. Plant the newly rooted segments in sterile soil. I wish I had better news for you.

  • Laura

    We can’t remember how many years ago we re-potted our huge 50+ yr old Christmas Cactus. It looks a little limp. It is already in a large pot and we would prefer not to go larger as it is already a challenge to move inside or out as the seasons change.
    Do you have any pruning advice or advice that would help prevent the plant from getting root bound in it’s current size pot? Can you prune roots? Would you control the branch length by pruning them by say half their length?
    Thanks for your advice! :)
    Laura

    HI Laura
    You can prune off some of the new growth up to two segments. It’s best to do this after bloom in spring . Root pruning is a more drastic measure and with a 50+ yr old plant can be risky. Try topdressing-this is a process of removing the top 1 or 2 inches of surface soil and replacing it with a fresh light soil mix.

  • Maxie X

    It appears I have a unique issue with my Christmas cactus. It has roots growing from each “joint” between sections all the way up the leaf branches. There are no distinguished “stems”. The leaves have become even more purple than they were. I just purchased the plant this year so it’s young, I potted it with potting soil, however the pot may have been too small. I put mulch in the bottom for drainage. I just re-potted now. The soil was very loose and damp, not soggy. There didn’t seem to be any roots to this plant under the soil. They didn’t appear to be overcrowded at all. Very odd, it’s almost as if I planted this plant upside down!

    Hi Maxie
    Christmas cactus will send out rootlets between the leaf branches. These can be cut off and propagated for new plants. Purple leaves can be a sign of a trace mineral deficiency but it also sounds as if the roots were not growing well.-probably some root rot going on. So you did good by transplanting it into new soil. The new fresh well-drained soil should help with the trace mineral problem and the plant should root better. Be sure not to overwater the plant.

  • Jane

    I have a Christmas Cactus that I transplanted to larger pot in May outside; live in Southern Cal. It is now blooming in July. Why? I thought they bloomed in December.

    Hi Jane
    Bloom time can be manipulated with some plants. In order to set bud Christmas cactus needs 13 hrs of uninterrupted darkness at night OR a temperature range of 55 at night and below 65F during the day for a six week period. Perhaps you fulfilled that requirement and that’s why its blooming in July.

  • Joan Keeting

    Yes, I have a question. On one of the stems of my Christmas cactus the leaves have turned yellow -
    What can I do?

    HI Joan
    Could that part of the plant be exposed to direct sun? If so, Christmas cactus don’t like direct sun and the leaves will yellow and then white from sunburn.

  • Prairie Avens

    My Christmas cactus has done great up until now. It has bloomed every year and seemed to be happy until a month or so ago. All the leaves have wilted to a sickly green and the veins have popped out. I have watered it at intervals and the base of the stems aren’t mushy. I don’t know what to do…please help!

    Hi
    It may be a watering problem- underwatering can make the leaves wilt and look dried up. I forgot to water my Christmas cactus and it was all shriveled, it recovered after a few careful waterings and being outdoors. Water more during the summer to keep the soil moist. This will depend on sun, humidity and temperatures. It is also possible that you have been overwatering? Eventhough the base is not mushy the roots may be rotting. Is this plant indoors? Has it been in air conditioning (cooler temps)? Has this plant put on any new growth during the summer?

  • Anna

    Propagating Christmas cactus cuttings

    My moms Christmas cactus is dying… I transplanted to help but nothing has improved. Mom passed away in April and no one tended to the plants so thinking lack of sunshine and ?1st I burned it in the direct sun, and since it was too dry to quick fix.. I overwatered it in the non-draining pot. So I thought transplant and do it right but it might be too late I’m afraid. I’m thinking it got root rot. Is it possible to take a cutting although they don’t look to good and possibly save it? The pic above shows a Y cutting with 3 segments. I’m sorry for being so stupid about this; but I have to ask… am I cutting this into 3 separate cuttings on the one side and another cutting for the other side of the Y? My reasoning…. how would that cutting stand up for rooting in 1 1/2″ soil? I wanted to try water rooting; how much of the leaf is submersed in water? (to prevent rotting)
    I managed to save the one plant that had the drainage hole and its recovering from the sunburn nicely. But I would really like to help the other as well..
    Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
    Thank You Anna

    Hi Anna
    The whole Y-segment should be planted. You need 2-3 segmentst of a cutting for good results. Let the cutting dry for a few hours and place 1/4-1/3 of the main straight stem into a pre-moistened peat/sand/perlite mix. You can also dip the cut end in rooting hormone but its not neccessary. Let the soil dry between watering to keep the cuttings from rotting. It should root in 2-3 weeks. E.spring is the best time to do this as in winter the plant is slow to root. So I would wait to do this. Rooting in water can cause mushy and rotting stems.

  • kathy

    LAST YEAR I TOOK SEGEMENTS FOR STARTING NEW PLANTS. I TOOK GREAT CARE TO LABEL THE SEGMENTS BY COLOR. THE ONES I LABELED AS PINK HAVE GROWN TO BEAUTIFUL PLANTS BUT THEIR COLOR IS LIPSTICK RED.
    DO CHRISTMAS CACTUS CHANGE COLOR ?

    Hi Kathy
    Yes Christmas cactus can change color due to light, temperature, nutrients and soil ph. Some color genes are weaker than others and flowers will revert to the weaker gene color.

  • Maureen Leary

    Actually, I think I have a Thanksgiving Cactus as it is already blooming.
    My question is: What do I do about the blooms? Do they fall off on their own or do I have to pinch them off when they are finished?
    Also, my cactus seems to do quite well so far by being very dry? Should I water more to make sure it continues to thrive?
    Thanks.

    Hi Maureen
    The blooms on your Thanksgiving cactus will dry up and fall off. If you don’t like to wait till they fall off just pinch them off. During the blooming period, water your cactus just enough to keep it from wilting (wrinkly leaves)and drying out. Purdue U. recommends watering when the top 1/2 of the soil in the container is dry. Careful not to overwater, err on the dry side especially since yours is doing so well. Once the plant is finished blooming withhold water for 6 weeks allowing it to rest. When you see new growth start watering and feed it with 1/4 strenght fertilizer

  • Daniel

    Hello,

    My christmas cactus has some pink bumps, that seem like bud forming, they are where the flowers usually come from, I am so excited. But are these really floweer buds, they are about milimeter big, but hard, are these really flower buds?

    Hi Daniel
    Yes, those are flower buds! Keep the plant away from heating vents and cold drafts. Water, when the pot feels light and top inch feels dry. Keep the soil moist but be careful not to overwater.

  • Daniel

    Im Very glad to hear that! Here in Canada the day are getting shorter. The plant is gettin cooler due to the draft from the window. My room doen’t get vented or heated in the winter so everything is going to great. I will have to watch the watering though, some leafs are a bit floppy

  • Francisco37388

    I have had 2 cacti for years with no problems. They spend the summers on the front porch with a southern exposure - bright light and little sun. In order to get mine to bloom, I leave them outside until a freeze is predicted, then bring them into the cooler part of the house. By then they have flower buds forming. The longer they stay cool, the longer the bloom lasts. I don’t worry about extended hours of darkness. It seems that by leaving them outside as long as possible, and then bringing them inside, it creates a ‘hothouse-type’ environment which forces it to eventually bloom. Mine have never failed to bloom. I guess I’m pretty lucky with this after reading everyone else’s misfortunes. Mine are 10+ years old. I’ve taken numerous cuttings through the years for friends.

  • Daniel

    Hello, me again

    Its been about over a week or so since I posted about the pink bumps on my cactus. They haven’t grown any bigger. I put the plant on a brighter location and spray it every morning, just the foliage.

    Is it normal for it them to take long to start developing into large buds, or am i doing something wrong,or is it too late to fix them. Please answer my question, I don’t want to lose the buds :(

    Hi Daniel
    It takes a while for the buds to develop but if you don’t see any change in the buds then there may be a problem with the plant. Make sure it has enough humidity but don’t bother spraying the plant. If you need to increase humidity, place your plant on a pebble tray filled w/ water, this should increase the humidity around the plant. In addition, keep the plant away from any cold drafts or heating vents.

  • Anita Gayle

    Hi, Kris! I have been following your site for awhile now and today just confused me. Not that you are wrong because I do not know anything about the “Zygos” but last year I was given what must be a Thanksgiving cactus because it is now budding and blooming all over. My quandary is that I did not do anything special with it. I do live up in the mountains and it never gets very hot so that was a plus. I have used regular house plant fertilizer but other wise just kinda left it alone. IIt has blossoms about 2/12″ long in a white (I was told it would be (cream) but I like the white much better I think. Tomorrow I was going to move it into the living room for the center piece at noon meal. I am afraid now that if I take it in there it will drop all its buds and blossoms. What is your advice in this unusual circumstance. It was a novelty to see this article today. You may have saved my little pretty.
    TYIA and I will be looking forward for your reply.
    Gayle

    Hi Anita
    You can carefully move your Christmas cactus as a centerpiece, after all it should be enjoyed in all its glory when in bloom. The reason I mentioned avoid moving it is when the buds starts to set, they orientate to a light source and moving the plant may force them to redirect causing the buds to “break off”. This is not a major factor in bud drop but its a possibility. Another factor is when moving it to a different location there may be a change in temperature/light which they may not like.
    Once the plant is in full bloom it should be able to tolerate a little change.
    Christmas cactus will also set buds without 13 hrs of darkness as long as they get a temperature range of 55-60F for six weeks. Sorry about the confusing, hope this clarifies it.

  • Terrie

    My mom has a Christmas cactus that is about 15 years old. I have read the other posts and cannot tell which problem (or which combination) affects my plant. I would appreciate any advice you could provide.

    For the past three years, my mom’s plant was in a small pot that was about 3 inches wide and about 4 inches deep. This summer, it looked great. A few months later, it is not the same plant. Althought it is a pretty green, it is quite pitiful otherwise. The leaves/stems are wilting and soft. The leaves keep falling off at the joints or simply breaking off at the base of the plant. Thinking it was root bound, I reported it in a much bigger pot. Instead of improving, it has continuously gotten worse. The base of the plant had started getting a little woodsy but now it looks like it is turning into dead wood. We use to be able to stick the pieces that broke off back in the dirt and they would grow roots, becoming new plants. Now they simply die off. I repotted in Scott’s Miracle Grow Moisture Control potting soil. The soil is not dry; nor is it too wet. How can I help my mom’s plant? (Lighting has not changed.)

    Hi Terrie
    It sounds as if your Christmas cactus has symptoms of root or crown rot . Usually caused by excess water. For starters, I believe the problem is in the soil. I’m not a fan of this type of soil mix. Moisture control potting soil retains water keeping the roots wet longer which leads to problems such as root or crown rot. I only used moisture control soil in outdoor containers with good drainage. Eventhough spring is the best time to repot, your cactus may need to be replanted now, provided it isn’t setting buds or blooming. Plant it in a good succulent soil that drains well. Water it and then let the soil dry. Keep it mostly dry during the winter as they need a dry dormant period. It may not survive either; transplant shock nor the moisture control soil. So you’ll have to decide. Cuttings root easily in May-June. Try rooting them in moist perlite. Place the pot in a plastic bag in warm, indirect sun. It may take longer to root this time of year. Good luck. Hope this helps a bit.

  • Debbie B.

    Please help! My Christmas cactus has reddish/purplish margins around all the leaves and blotchy red/purple patches on the leaf surfaces. I think I overwatered it for a while last summer. One post made it sound like this is a virus and there is no hope to save the plant. Is that true? Is there any way to get the leaves green again? The plant is several years old and all but the first and second segment nearest the root have the red rims.

    HI Debbie
    It may not be a virus, but a nutrient deficiency(Phosphorous) or a combination of several problems. You don’t mention if you fertilized during the growing season. You may have some root rot from overwatering and the plant needs time to recover. I’m not sure your plant can be saved but what I would do is transplant it into fresh soil,(eventhough spring is a better time to transplant) water it and then let it go dormant by keeping it on the dry side, but not letting the soil dry out completely. In late winter,when it shows signs of new growth start watering again.

  • gummy

    hi, i have a christmas cactus which is now 6yrs old, it`s been placed in direct sunlight and gets a cold draft and it blooms from late november through to february with anything from 4 to 5 full blooms, looks like someone forgot to tell my plant it shouldn`t like it

  • Sherrel

    COLD DAMAGE

    My christmas Cactus was doing great in low 30s temperature, but last night, I think it froze. The plant is still green, but droopy. Is there any hope that I can save it? I thawed it out and put it in a window.

    Hi Sherrel
    Only time will tell how badly it was frozen. It may still perk up and recover. If it starts to get mushy and soft, then its a gonner.

    Rachel ( afeigle@yahoo.com / )
    Several days ago my Christmas Cactus got left on the porch and was exposed to temps in the low 30s . It is usually kepy between 50-60 degrees. Over the last several days, the smaller leaves and some of the newer growth has begun to wilt. Some of the leaves look ok. Is there a chance for the rest of the plant, or will the wilting spread? Is there anything I can do for the parts that still appear healty?

    New growth is more susceptible to cold damage than mature growth. If the new growth hasn’t recovered or perked up by spring time, cut back the spindly growth (up to two segments) which will encourage your plant to send out new growth and make a fuller plant. Because the leaves are wilted you may have a tendency to water but be sure to keep the plant on the dry side during its dormant period (6weeks from blooming) otherwise you can cause root rot problems.

    Cynthia Clark
    I had my Christmas cactus on my front porch and I was away visiting a sick friend in the hospital I had told my husband to bring it inside because there was going to be a cool snap. When I got home it was 21 degrees and he had forgot my cactus, it now has got real droopy and looks dark green I suppose it froze is there anything I can do to save it. It was in full bloom.

    Sorry to hear that. Nothing you can do. If the leaves get soft and mushy then they were frozen.

  • Sandy

    I have a 3 year old plant. It now has buds but the leaves have places that i can only describe as looking like someone used their fingernail to scratch into the leave. It is not edema as it is not brown..just part of the top layer is gone. this is all over the plant. I do not see any signs of pests that are visible. Any idea what this could be?
    HI Dandy
    Is it possible that the plant was exposed to too much direct sun at some point?

    Sandy ( fainc@ipa.net / )
    In response to question on my 3 yr old plant…it has been on my dining table which gets light from a SE facing window. Has not had direct sunlight to receive a burn. Do not even put them out on the patio in the summer anymore as i had one totally eaten by something a few years back! Is there anyway to post a picture?

    Hi Sandy
    After viewing the pictures , I believe your Christmas cactus has Odema (Edema). It occurs when the soil is warm and damp and the air is cool and damp-overwatering. This causes rapid water movement to the leaves but slow transpiration through the leaves. Some of the cells burst and cause scaring which turn into brown “warty” looking spots. Once the leaves are scared, they will not change.

  • Rebecca

    I have had a Christmas Cactus for awhile now in the same window and its been doing quite well,,, it had just started to bloom again, when it got a draft from the window and the leaves went very droopy, and soft…. in the middle there are a few pieces that still seem healthy. Is there anything I can do to save it?

    HI Rebecca
    It may also be a watering problem. Don’t keep it too wet. If your plant is done blooming, stop watering and let it rest for 6 weeks.

  • Christa

    Hi. My Christmas Cactus (over 10 years old) which had been thriving has suddenly started acting weird. The branches of the plant have fallen completely off . One is only holding on by a thread, but has still managed to produce a large bud while in this condition. The ends of these branches turned a brown which seemed to be spreading up from the bottom. We have tried loosening the soil, cleaning the pot, and tried propagating some of the plant (maybe we did it wrong, as they did not make it), but nothing has helped. Is my cactus doomed, or is there hope? I don’t want the poor thing to die!

    Hi Christa
    From you description, your Christmas cactus has a type of stem rot caused by either a fungus (Fusarium oxysporum)basal stem rot or a bacteria (Erwinia spp.). Both start at the soil line and work their way up and cause the stems to drop off. They will eventually kill the plant. Are the stems soft & mushy? Do they have sunken discolored spots on the stem? Remove any diseased parts and reduce watering. Try taking cuttings again.

  • Brandy

    I have my grandmother’s christmas cactus. I noticed tonight it has set on buds. I have it on the back porch. It gets into the 40s out there at night but not freezing. Will moving it cause it to drop the buds? She always had it blooming but this is the first time it has for me. I kind of neglected it and the cold treatment I didn’t even plan worked! I don’t want it to get too cold but don’t want to move it and have the buds fall off.

    Hi Brandy
    Now that the buds are set move it to a little warmer temperatures 50- 60’s , bright light and away from heat vents and drafts. Bring it indoors and enjoy it.

  • Christa

    Hi again,
    The stems are not soft, they are hard, with no sunken discolored bits… it is all just brown. I had reduced then stopped watering it in hopes it would help, (the soil is now dry). The segments are all wilty (And all of the branches are affected it seems) I don’t know if it would even be possible to propagate them…. If we removed all of the branches is it even possible it could re-grow just from roots? It might be time for a new cactus. :(
    If I manage to find one, what is the first thing I should do for it?

    Hi Christa
    Don’t give up just yet. I don’t think removing the branches would help. The problem may be in the roots and (if possible) need time to recover. Keep your cactus dry (just a little bit of water periodically) for the winter and see if it sends out new growth in early spring. They can look pretty sad during this time. At this point you have nothing to loose. If you get a new cactus and it is not in bloom, water little and let it go dormant for the winter. When the top half of the soil feels dry and the pot is light water again. The leaves may be slightly wrinkled but will perk up in spring. Keep it in a sunny window. They can have direct sun for an hour in the winter, otherwise bright filtered light is best. Once the days get longer, they will repsond with new growth, start watering more often, letting the soil dry between watering. Frequency of watering will depend on temperature, humidity, how much light the plant gets. If it is growing quickly then it will need to be watered more often because it is using more water. Also feed the plant with 1/2 strength houseplant fertilizer every 2-3 weeks when new growth starts.

  • Linda Haehnel

    I recently received a Christmas Cactus as a Christmas gift and want to be sure I am taking care of it properly. I live in Central Florida and need to know if this plant can be kept outside. Currently it is cool at night between 50-60s, 70-80s during the day. As spring and summer approach it will become much warmer. Will I do any harm to the plant if I keep it on the lanai and out of the direct sunlight?

    Hi Linda
    It should do just fine outdoors and can be grown throughout the year as long as it is not exposed to freezing temperatures. It can tolerate temperatures in the 40’s . Christmas cactus is a “jungle cactus” and likes to be grown in the shade. Keep it out of direct sunlight, especially in the hot summer.

  • LeAnna

    I inherited a Christmas (Thanksgiving) Cactus from a coworker, and due to the placement of my office, it gets NO sun. At all. Just office lights. It bloomed fine last year and this year, but I don’t think it’s grown at all, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a new leaf on there. Some of the end sections have a red hue to them, as well, or red edges. How can I get this to grow bigger and lose that red, if it’sa problem?

    Hi LeAnna
    If the Christmas cactus seems healthy then if may just be a mineral deficiency. In the spring, when the plant starts to show signs of new growth, feed the plant with a well balanced houseplant fertilizer that contains micronutrients. The plant will grow, if you provide a better growing environment.

  • Russ Boone

    My Christmas Cactus has flowered beautifully around Thanksgiving, and is now starting to bud and flower again. My problem is 1 of the larger budding stems broke off. I found on this site to let it dry a couple of hours, then repot. After a few hours I just placed it into the same pot about and 1-2″ and no water…My question is is there anything else I need to do? Also found your polination tip, and look forward trying it…thanks.

    HI Russ
    Sounds like you did everything right. The cutting will get some moisture from the soil to root in. Remember after bloom to maintain your Christmas cactus on the dry side.

  • Bobbi

    Question on Christmas Cactus : Saw you comment about “White Flies” but the insect on mine is tiny black flies - what can I do?

    Hi Bobbi
    The tiny black flies are most likely fungus gnats . Are they coming out of the soil? If so, you are keeping the soil too wet. Cut down on the amount of watering especially if your Christmas cactus is done blooming.

  • Tom

    I need help. I have a Christmas cactus (or part of one) that has been passed from generation to generation.

    The one I have has not grown or flowered since we got it about two years ago. In fact I think we are killing it…HELP!
    We water it about once a week, and use Jobe fertilizer spikes for flower plants every time we water…What are we doing wrong.

    Hi Tom
    It sounds like you are killing it with kindness. Reduce the watering, in fact during winter, let the plant dry out a bit-perhaps watering it once a month until you see some new growth sprout. They like a dry,dormant period during the winter. Stop fertilizing until new growth begins. Plants can only utilize fertilizer when they are actively growing.

  • Cheryl

    I bought a Christmas cactus from the grocery store about six weeks ago. I placed it near a sunny window and left it in the store pot. It looked great for about three weeks… I watered it once in that period. The watered drained through the soil very fast and I poured off the excess that collected in the outer pot so it wouldn’t have wet feet. The top soil always seemed dry, but I didn’t want to overwater a cactus.

    Then flowers started falling off, and it got kind of droopy, with soft stems and a little bit of wrinkling all over the stems. I have a 10-year-old jade plant that does that when it hasn’t been watered for a month or two, and after I water it, the stems perk back up. So I started watering the Christmas cactus lightly about every 10-14 days. I watered the it before going overseas for two weeks. It looked the same when I came back, so I watered it again lightly. Now it’s two weeks later and the cactus is looking worse and is very floppy and a little wrinkled. The top of the soil is always very dry and hard, and the pot feels light, within a day of being watered. It’s getting plenty of light and is at 61 degrees during the day, up to 72 in the afternoon, then down to 65 at night. (Automatic thermostat.)

    Why is it drooping so much? Am I over or under watering it? I can’t tell, and I don’t want to kill it.

  • Nicole

    I bought a Christmas Cactus online and it arrived looking relatively healthy. I repotted it in Miracle Gro potting soil and have only watered it about once a week. I’m not sure, but I think it may have salt burn. I haven’t seen any information about what salt burn looks like, but the soil that the plant came in looked like it had way too much fertilizer in it. My plant is still green, but not growing very well and one of the stems has a small yellow abscess where the soil line was touching it. I have since removed most of the old soil and carefully wiped the stem with a wet papertowel then repotted it. Is this salt burn, and did I do the right thing?

  • Jennie

    I have a white Christmas cactus that has turned pink. Is there a way to get it to bloom white again?

    Hi Jennie
    Christmas cactus can change color due to light, temperature, nutrients and soil ph. Some color genes are weaker than others and flowers will revert to the weaker gene color.

  • I have my grandmother’s Christmas cactus which I assume to be 60 to 80 years old. It has been in the same NW facing window for over 8 years. It has not been repotted in at least 10 years. Stems are woody and about an inch thick. Growth is over three feet all the way around. It blooms twice every year, around Christmas and around Easter. New growth appears in late spring or early summer. Occasionally there are dead sections but they are localized.
    In the colder months, the house is kept in the low to mid 60’s. I give it a pot of water every two weeks and a dropper full of fertilizer each time. Every once in a while I turn the plant.
    Obviously, the plant seems to be doing consistently well. My question is, should I mess with a good thing? Should I cut back on the watering in the fall and winter? Should I not be fertilizing it every time I water, all year long? Should I repot it even though it is likely I will break some parts of the plant in the process?

    Hi Phil
    Wow! I say, leave well enough alone. There are alway exceptions to the rules and obviously your plant is one of them - happy and healthy. Take some cuttings (after bloom) in the spring and make new plants to share with your friends.

留下回复

You can use these HTML tags

<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>