译者

最高评分

档案

梅塔

栀子护理

暗绿色的光泽叶片和乳白色花朵芬芳的栀子花植物使它成为不可阻挡的植物生长。 通常出售或花蕾盛开的醉人的香味引诱我们,使之成为一个必须有工厂,但栀子可挑剔和挑战增长室内。 事实上,有些把它作为一种一次性植物和开花后丢弃。

桅子花

栀子 (栀子)需要宽松良好的排水,酸性( ph4.5 - 6.2 )土壤,明亮的室内太阳6-8小时骓遮荫(朝阳)当在户外工作时在夏季。 它喜欢较高的湿度和潮湿,但不潮湿的土壤。 饲料用1 / 2强度酸肥每2-4周由3至10月。
冬季保健 :提供凉爽明亮的位置,湿度和远离暖气通风口。 不施肥和供水不足,使顶端1-2厘米干前浇水一次。

开花 :栀子花要求即使温度62-63楼及高湿度环境中芽形成。 为了增加湿度的地方植物在水圆托盘或接近加湿器。 当芽的形成,提供一致的凉爽夜( 58 - 60F章)和热烈天( 70 - 75F ) 。 10-15度的温度差别,需要保持芽掉落(芽爆炸) 。 开幕花卉应去年3-8天,挫伤容易感动。

剪枝后的开花周期已经结束时,或在工厂正积极发展和需要修剪。 不要在冬季修剪。
繁殖 :以3-4英寸的半木质提示切割从非开花拍摄早春。 删除下部叶片,浸在生根激素和插入切割在潮湿的泥炭土,蛭石混合。 它应植根于4-6周。

疑难解答
栀子花吸引一些昆虫:蚜虫,粉错误,规模,红蜘蛛螨和蓟马。 他们还容易根腐病,芽下降和黄叶。

在南部和西部沿海地区(区7B条) ,亚热带栀子花生长在户外的常绿灌木。 品种不同的大小,生长习性和开花时节。 '神秘'加州喜爱起床到8 '高,生产大型双花。

  1. 复活节百合保健 如何挑选复活节百合来自山区的台湾 , ...
1 Star2 Stars3 Stars4 Stars5 Stars (尚无评分)
Loading ... 载入中...

52评论栀子护理

  • 南希

    音响刚刚找到您的网站,并喜欢它。 我有一个栀子植物在佛罗里达州,但它不是开花,虽然这是绿油油和健康。 我妈妈有同样的问题与她在马萨诸塞州。 我们可以做些什么来促进盛开我们的健康寻找植物?

    栀子盛开通常每年一次在春季到夏季。 他们需要一些条件,以确定花芽。 充分太阳4-6小时,高湿度,夜间降温( 58-60 )和热烈天( 70-75 ) 。 花芽形成在温度62-63 degreesF当时工厂应具有较高的湿度和水分。 如果允许土壤变干或太湿,它将放弃其味蕾。 波动温度如过暖,冷草案也将导致芽下降。 他们有点模糊。 饲料厂的酸肥( Miracid )从3月到10月时,工厂正在积极发展。 如果在户外夏季保持在局部遮荫。 修剪后的植物开花(春季)后修剪可以消除明年的花。 佛罗里达气候应该非常适合你的栀子,而质量将需要多一点努力保持湿度要求。

  • 维罗妮卡ö

    我有一个问题没有发表评论。 我种3 栀子灌木丛在我窗台上正。 我认为他们几乎死由于极其寒冷的天气,我们有这个冬天。 有没有一种办法可以救我栀子的? 我还没有看到他们绽放。

    等着看多少冷害你实际上。 如果您有枯竭的枝叶看起来像没有生命迹象修剪这些并检查新的经济增长作为天气warmer.They喜欢明亮,温暖潮湿条件以及排水,酸性土壤。 如果有迹象表明,生活(新叶)的水和肥料( muracid )在春季,以鼓励增长。 栀子花是霜冻投标,并根据不同地区9月11日哈。

  • 丽塔县

    我有几个栀子花已经失去了他们的生动greeness 。 我购买颗粒Ironite ,但袋只告诉我有多少磅适用于1000平方英尺我不想适用于大面积,仅是植物变黄。 多少钱我可以安全地适用于个人灌木约。 3 ' ? 我住在得克萨斯州,区8 。 谢谢您。

    Ironite网站建议1/2lb 。 申请2英尺灌木。 和一个世界杯= 3 /四磅ironite 。 因此,这里是数学。 1 / 2磅= 2 / 3杯。 这个比例应是安全的,以适用于在您的灌木。

  • 克里斯蒂娜

    我住在希腊和刚才买我的第一栀子 多久我猜想水和肥料,我应该放弃吗?

    如果是在室内植物的容器,让您的栀子略微湿润,但不湿(不要让它站在水) ,不要让它枯萎。 您可能需要检查每天浇水,尤其是在天气炎热。 水顶端英寸土壤干燥。 您可能需要水较少的冷却器冬季。 还提供大量的湿度。 饲料用平衡酸肥( Muracid )每月一次从3月至10月时,工厂正在积极发展。 请按照制造商的指示。

  • 莫琳

    黑叶和茎

    音响我有一个栀子树大外语期待开花5月至6月自那时以来,叶和茎把黑色。 你能帮助致谢

    有可能是您的栀子已煤烟模具黑色薄薄的真菌,其中包括叶片和盖帽阳光。 煤烟型饲料的甘露这是一个副产品(粪便)的 蚜虫粉虱规模 。检查您的植物虫害和治疗相应。 每个昆虫有不同的疗程。

  • 帕特

    黄叶

    我有一个问题, 黄叶 我应该怎么做,以帮助该工厂?

    泛黄树叶可栀子的迹象overwatering , underwatering ,过高的pH值( 6.5以上)或缺铁。 缺铁失绿( interveinal减轻叶)可能是由于高pH值。 饲料厂,拥有1 / 2强度酸肥添加螯合铁的土壤和喷雾叶片。 您也可以使用茶水每月一次保持低pH值(酸性土壤) 。

    我有一个正式的喷泉花园,约18白色宝石栀子花和18英语boxwoods这是种植在今年6月。 的栀子花是非常充分的绿油油的枝叶和花朵整个夏天。 在这个时候的外叶仍在增长和健康的绿色然而深的灌木丛有叶子泛黄,但他们不脱落。 任何建议或问题,或补救这是正常吗?

    您好贾尼丝
    有些泛黄的叶子可以正常如果较低,年龄较大的叶片或叶片的内部工厂。 如果新的叶子变黄的栀子,那么有可能营养素缺乏症(绿) 。 还检查密切虫害如规模及叶螨

  • 休麦克丹尼尔

    我有一个盆栽栀子对我的甲板上。 因为它已成为许多寒冷的叶子已经变成黄色下车 会有再生春季时再热,还是会死这个冬天。 我住在亚特兰大地铁。 谢谢

    禁止任何不寻常的冻结,您栀子应代您所在地区( 7-8区)和过冬。 一定要水偶尔。 检查的昆虫,以确保他们不会变黄的原因,叶下降。 它应发出新的经济增长中的春天。

  • 克雷格

    尺度

    我国植物叶片的光泽和湿粘性残留的植物看起来健康,我无法看到很多昆虫。 ihave了蚧在我的夹竹桃和对待成功与马拉硫磷。我应该使用不同的东西在我的栀子

    如果您有蚧你会看到它。 另一个昆虫的袭击栀子和产生黏性残留是规模可能不容易发现。 密切关注的茎和叶片的undersides颠簸,可以刮出与你的手指。 一个放大镜,真正起到了作用。 他们留下一个明确的黏性残留的叶表面。 治疗将取决于您的工厂越来越多(或在室内外) 。 您可以使用马拉硫磷治疗的规模,如果它被列在标签上。 它将杀死昆虫的履带阶段而不是在shell阶段。 您可能需要几个应用程序。 切勿喷洒在室内,使用时的预防措施,喷洒。 不要使用杀虫肥皂栀子,因为它们往往是敏感的肥皂喷雾剂造成药害(黄/棕色发现并烧毁提示。
    超滤IFA还ext.serv 。 超精细石油还将园艺工作的规模。

  • 鲍勃•霍奇森

    Repot栀子

    我有室内栀子现在2年,我不能确定何时重新盆栽植物需要约一英尺高,非常健康,请告知

    Repot您栀子的根源时,填补了锅。 你会看到根在土壤表面,以及走出底部排水孔。 他们实际上盛开时略有锅更好地结合。 为了让新的有力增长, repot到1英寸的大容器中的春天。 这也可能是准备在今后的大小火锅。

  • 弗雷德森伯姆

    干燥CURLLING叶片

    一位朋友给了我一个移植室内植物栀子的话看起来像两个工厂在一锅。 据健康寻找过去4个月,但最近一个工厂的叶子已经开始干燥和冰壶 可之一的植物根的约束和我应该把它和尝试补种它分开?

    干燥和卷曲的叶子可以是由于压力所造成的不平衡的根源浇水或低湿度。 栀子花不喜欢其根源都在于不安。 分开的两个工厂将导致大量的创伤已经评定根系,因此,我不会推荐除以。 如果您觉得植物根的约束,在基层出现上述的土壤和走出底部排水孔,然后repot成1-2 “大容器内开始实施新的春天增长。 栀子花花时,最好稍微盆栽约束。 修剪干茎,但没有单独的工厂。

  • 吉娜

    我有一个栀子这是给我,但这样做并不好,因为我是一个很难定期浇水。 所以当我开始这样做了,它仿似了相当不错,得到真正的绿色。 我没有改变浇水周期,但由于某种原因,所有的叶子枯萎,并开始卷曲,然后... .. 当我去触摸叶片,它掉了! 所有的叶子脱落除了一些新的经济增长在年底。 我想这可能是锅,所以我最近repotted它-它是这样做有点好转,但仍然没有离开的分支机构,仅仅是新的经济增长目标。 更多新的增长已经开始发芽了底部-但我想知道是我要修剪了树枝,没有离开呢? 即使有新的增长点在结束? 它只是看起来没有离开裸体! 它没有开花,因为我在所有获得它的圣诞节。 帮助?

    不均衡的水分和低湿度会引起栀子下降叶片和花蕾。 删除了任何枯枝或那些没有离开他们。 既然你有新的增长来自基地的工厂,还削减了“裸露”这将刺激茎芽和生产方面更充分地寻找植物。 提供过滤光线明亮,统一的水分和湿度(放置在卵石托盘)和受精,拥有1 / 2强度酸肥(每2周3至9月)获得去。

  • 宽限期

    我有一个栀子树约一个月,充分,芽。 起初,花美丽,现在他们不开放。 芽是黄色和不开放 ,这是户外和获得早晨的太阳。 什么I'MI做错了... ...请帮助。 这是我的FARVOTE花,我喜欢他们整个住宅谢谢

    栀子花非常喜怒无常在开花时,他们将放弃芽或不公开,即使你看他们的错误的方式。 改变位置,如移动设备,任何温度波动冷,热,湿度低,并根据浇水(甚至需要水分在开花时) ,并没有足够的光线都可以导致流产或花停止开放。

  • 山姆

    叶螨

    我有一个室内栀子 它的新叶和花蕾形成。 但是,旧的叶子变黄并脱落 也有一些微小的昆虫是形成一个网络如蜘蛛 ) 。 我该如何摆脱呢? 我在南京地区。 谢谢

    栀子花容易叶螨这听起来像你描述。 叶片的黄化也可能引起缺乏营养以及老年。 春天是一个好时机,开始喂养你的工厂的“酸”肥料( Miracid ) 。 请按照制造商的方向。 附加茶叶水,每2周将有助于保持土壤酸性。

    米歇尔( Shellny2@hotmail.com / ) ( IP地址是: 24.45.47.178 )
    在看到许多同样的投诉,我对我的栀子工厂,我的叶子下检查,发现小黑暗规格 ,当感动和期待来到了棕红色,我的手,几乎就像我涂的错误。 这是什么?

    您好米歇尔,
    这听起来像叶螨 洗涤水的植物中删除昆虫。 夏季湿度增加将有助于保持在控制之中。

    萨拉( ego.sara @ yahoo.com / ) ( IP地址: 154.20.5.157 )
    非常感谢您的答复。 我还没有发现任何粘性物质但是我没找到小微小痕迹的网页。 也许叶螨? 所有的叶子看起来肮脏这似乎符合叶螨。 您有任何建议,就如何控制它们。 谢谢您

    您好萨拉
    叶螨将攻击栀子花在室内。 第一件事,从孤立的所有其他植物和去叶螨更多的治疗建议。 请注意,栀子花敏感inseticidal肥皂,让您将不得不使用替代治疗,如杀螨剂。

  • 贝丝

    我住在密西西比在过去2周一直在70年代中期降低80 。 今天,我有我的码园景和种植一些矮栀子的。 我刚才看到的天气,我们正在冻结预警今晚。 它看起来似乎没有得到了所有的道路32 ,但非常接近。 我应该支付栀子的?

    是的,他们将需要保护的冷战。 涵盖这些用布,毛毯,但不要使用塑料作为这一陷阱冷战和弊大于利。

  • saadia

    百威降

    我如何保持温度差所需succeessful我栀子开花室内? 它使越来越芽的脱落,它的叶子不是绿油油了。 它有一些小错误的灰色,我想它一直试图控制一些castille肥皂与水喷洒,但看来,工厂可能会敏感呢?
    谢谢

    栀子花很难保持室内。 温度差别是需要得到该工厂设置芽,这就是为什么它们是生长在温室的温度是可以控制的。 通常情况下,气温将下降足以在夜间和热身白天保持味蕾。 他们喜怒无常,而且会受到许多昆虫。 我不知道什么是灰色的错误,可能是蚜虫叶螨 我已阅读,使用杀虫肥皂会导致植物栀子敏感性。 考虑除虫菊酯喷雾剂标示的栀子。 您的工厂出现了下降的压力,并将其芽任何时间出现变化,环境,气温高,湿度低,热或冷的草案,并多少或没有足够的水。 小心,不要overwater它或让它干,保持土壤湿润均匀。

  • 阿努Prestonia

    您好,这是今天在纽约热水( 79度)和兴奋,我购买了栀子对我的花园。 我知道现在有没有任何的指示植物。 难道现在太冷了,不能外面? 时代是在高40年代中至50年代期间的夜晚。 我应该多久水,是在充分太阳奥凯之外? 感谢您的帮助。 我想保持这种植物活尽可能长时间。

    这是太冷了,不能外。 他们需要的温度在65-70白天和晚上60时。 不要让土壤干燥保持潮湿,但不湿别让锅坐在水。 当您在您工厂把它放在室外阴影了一个星期,然后将它移到半色调或间接避免强光直接的太阳。 施肥每月一次的酸fertilizer.Because这是亚热带植物,使室内温度下降之前获得太冷。

  • 尼克

    嗨,
    我得到这个美丽的室内栀子树(不是一个厂)作为礼物,约一个月前。 当我第一次了,它有几个鲜花和看起来相当健康的...现在我看到洞甚至新叶,芽正在下降。 我一直定期浇水和它前面的窗口,得到充分的阳光在早晨。 我没有经验的植物生长,所以我不知道可能是这个问题。 什么,你可以建议将不胜感激。
    谢谢

    您好尼克
    这是一个很好的问题,因为大多数的“最喜爱的”昆虫袭击栀子不嚼昆虫,使洞。 它可能是昆虫附带的植物,有再生和欣欣向荣。 寻找昆虫的树叶和沿干以及在土壤中。 一旦你找到它是什么,那么你将知道如何有效地治疗。 我也致电该供应商的栀子树和抱怨。

  • 格温

    嗨,

    我有一个美丽的栀子布什正在对空间,我有种植。 当将是最好时候 ,布什移植到另一个领域。 我在休斯顿

    您好关
    最佳时机移植栀子是在早春2月下旬至3月。

  • 布莱恩匡威

    我国绿色翻阅母亲已成功地培养了许多栀子花通过移动和其他压力的时候。 就在最近她完全健康和开花(室内)栀子下降其所有的叶子-几乎在一夜之间。 她做任何事情不同于其他任何时间。 你知道什么原因要做到这一点,和她所应该做的吗? 谢谢您。

    叶下降症状类似芽下降。 该工厂可能缺乏营养,足够的土壤湿度或允许干涸。 栀子也将减少其叶子为应对虫害。 检查叶螨规模

  • 谢Cottingham

    嗨,
    我住在皮迪南卡罗来纳州。 我们刚才动议和众议院拥有大约6栀子花对后面的房子。 他们非常光秃秃的叶子,并没有减少或形成了在数年之久。 我想我应该做护士他们恢复健康。 的确是有双重山茱萸开花了,所以他们有遮荫需要在这部分的南部。 还有两个其他的的另一边,后院有充分的树叶和看起来像他们将罚款的,如果我保持了他们蚜虫。 我并没有任何关于他们的还没有,因为我一直在努力让所有其他数以百计的灌木和杂草植物自由。 我没有拉常春藤这是在底部赶走,以确保他们不被窒息。 谢谢!

    我要检查裸栀子花,看看是否有昆虫问题造成叶下降。 他们也可能是争夺养分的山茱萸。 一个早春修剪将帮助塑造灌木丛。 如果您的栀子花已经开始开花等到他们做开花削减回来。 为了刺激新的经济增长蔓延一些酸肥基地周围的植物。

  • 弗朗辛舱口

    百威降

    我住在新墨西哥州阿尔伯克基购买到栀子树 /从Costco和灌木种植在花盆东面的天井。 他们在第一次开花,但现在的叶子变黄,脱落,芽不开放。 我看到的职位有关湿度,我们没有很多的这里。 我打一场败局增长这些试图在这种气氛?

    您好弗朗辛
    这是一个艰难的植物生长在干燥的气候。 它不仅需要湿度,但一些叶及芽下拉可由于气温的波动和变化的环境。 随时植物强调,它将作出反应,降低其芽和叶。 让您的植物施肥均匀湿润和半强度与酸肥2-3周后,植物是开花。 您可以喷射雾状植物,以增加湿度。

  • 让莉娅

    我住在爱达荷州博伊西和公正买了栀子布什礼物,并认为,我想查找信息栀子的照顾打印出来的文章,使植物。 正如我期待到栀子的看来,这是一个非常棘手的植物。 这是个案,还是喜欢的新闻,我们只听到坏消息,而不是很多,好的故事。 将这种植物生长在我们的干旱和炎热的条件下,户外活动,或应是一个盆栽甲板植物所应采取的对我们的寒冷的冬天? 你怎么建议有一个健康的植物在爱达荷州博伊西? 感谢您的时间!

    音响莉娅
    我建议greenhouse.lol我爱他们,但有一个原因是他们的声誉。 在陶醉的气味可能会吸引你购买一台,但它是挑剔和难以维持的一段较长的时间。 栀子是一种亚热带植物 ,也需要更潮湿和酸性土壤。 最顽强栀子能增长区7和行动,博伊西,身份证是在区5B号- 6B型,因此,你会成长为盆栽,并使其在室内过冬。

  • 戴安ñ

    我是感到困惑6-8小时的阳光需要。 我有我根据格子庭院覆盖东侧。 这是一大罐。 pH值为5.0 ,需要克服缺铁。 我应该将其充分孙? 资讯科技蓬勃发展,但叶子建兴绿色瓦/契约静脉。 余喷涂这样调幅。 瓦/印楝对大规模叶片。

    喜戴安娜
    栀子需要6-8小时。 充分的阳光生长时,室内。 户外活动,他们喜欢局部阴影,上午阳光,尤其在夏季。 东天井暴露是伟大的,我也不会移动。 继续喂养它的酸肥帮助褪绿(缺铁症) 。 好运气的规模

  • 生姜

    我刚刚收到栀子树,在我丈夫的葬礼。 我希望保持这种树活着,以纪念他。 正是在一锅现在。 我住在北格鲁吉亚。 可以种植的树木在地下? 它必须把内部,在冬天? 或将它更好公正repot ,并保持在一个火锅,并采取它的走廊在夏季,所以将其带回内冷个月。 如果我厂是在地下,需要将它的部分或全部遮荫孙?

    音响生姜
    对不起,您的损失。
    抗寒取决于类型的栀子。 大多数是哈中区9月11日,一些品种是好凉区8 。 您现在的位置区8A条这将使轻微哈迪在您的领域。 入住社区,看看是否有人正在增长栀子户外。 他们可以toerate零度以下,只有很短的时间。 它在室外植物以及排水,土壤肥沃,在局部阴影,与上午的太阳,特别是在夏季。 为了安全起见方面,使室内的冬季或保持在一个封闭阳台。

  • 克伦文

    我住在新奥尔良。 今年春天我RELANDSCAPED我卡特里娜损伤主页。 布什本人的栀子种植在我的后院的GET的午后阳光。 他们出示美丽FLOWERES但在过去的一周我有至少3人开始黄叶和一完全下降所有树叶。 俺给他们以本苗圃建议的食物,但仍然没有好转。 我应该怎么办? 他们会回来? 所有我的其他植物状态良好。

    首先寻找昆虫,如规模 让我知道你找到。

  • 汉图楚娃

    嗨,

    我买了栀子树(栀子)从多伦多/加拿大幼儿园2周前,右后,我把它带回家(我保持室内,附近的南方窗口) ,我发现一群黑色苍蝇轨道围绕树。 他们似乎是来自于土壤。 我告诉我买了苗圃的栀子从这个问题,并表明他们的苍蝇。 他们说,飞行其实是一种真菌蚊蚋,这是一个细长飞行约1 / 8英寸长,长脚长,线状天线。 他们还说,幼虫生活在土壤中,难以找到,所以他们说,最好的办法是: (一)摆脱旧土壤, (二)喷雾根水,直到所有旧的土壤消失和喷雾的根和叶的“完所有二-杀螨剂/杀虫剂/杀螨剂”安全生产的喷雾的, (三)扔旧壶和更换一个新的,以及(四)重新盆栽的树使用新的土壤。

    两天前,我没有他们说(和浇水新的土壤,只要保持湿润) ,但今天上午我还注意到几个苍蝇周围土壤(一飞黄河胶带我把树下) 。 此外,叶和芽的树似乎有一个问题-他们有一个下拉式一样,生命的希望,尽管他们仍然绿色(叶片和芽期待确定之前,我管理的治疗:深绿色,有一个坚定的,站起来的态度... ) 。 我不知道如果栀子只是感到震惊的是它得到的待遇或影响年底全部喷雾
    谁能告诉我该怎么办? 你认为是造成这一突然变化的叶片出现? 是树叶会回来的形状? 我应该喷雾“完所有的”最重要的新的土壤,以杀死任何最终卵,幼虫所带来的一些苍蝇后,我仍然注意到管理的待遇? 我不知道该怎么办...我没有经验,开花树木/栀子花所有。
    衷心感谢你在预先为您的协助!
    汉图楚娃

    您好汉图楚娃
    对不起得知您不幸与真菌gnats 还有一个更简单的方式来处理这个问题。 我相信您的反应栀子是所有的“虐待”它已采取摆脱虫害。 这是最有可能在移植休克和需要大量的呵护。 保持在一个阴影区,直到它开始活跃起来。
    您可能想要让植物移植解决方案,可帮助基层恢复得更快。

  • 艾娜

    I had a gardenia that was doing pretty well inside and left a friend responsibility for watering it in my absence, for about 2 weeks. He says he did so, but on my return the tree was completely bLack, all branches were dry and dead. I pruned all the branches off leaving only the stem of the plant and am watering when the top soil is dry and have left it where it will only get sun in the morning. (I am in New York.) However after a week I can’t see any improvement, I am very worried that the entire plant is dead. The stem is blackish brown in colour and has light brown flaking. What do you recommend? I love this plant so dearly!

    Hi Ina
    Sorry to hear about your gardenia. It sounds as if it is beyond saving. Keep watering when the soil dries and if there is any life, it should send out some new leaves. Even then it will be a struggle, the plant would have to do a lot of growing to survive the upcoming winter season.

  • Ruth Wilson

    I’ve had a gardenia bush for about 15 years that is about 6-7 feet tall. It produces a lot of flowers each spring, but stopped having a scent. What does it need?
    Thanks,
    Ruth

    Hi Ruth
    A recent study at the U. of Virginia has discovered that pollution (burning of fossil fuels such as gas and coal) can have an affect the the loss of fragrance on a plant. The scent molecules bond to ozone and nitrate radicals that change the fragrance of flowers. http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/nature/why-flowers-have-lost-their-scent-812168.html

  • Darlene

    I have an indoor gardenia that I have repotted 4 times. I repotted because the plant was root bound. Each time after repotting blooms reappeared. The gardenia is in a pot that weighs about 100 lbs and again and looks like it needs repotted although I can’t go any larger (pot). My question is: Is there a way to “split” the plant without harming it. I live in Pennsylvania so putting it outdoors is not a good idea. I don’t want to lose the plant.

    Hi Darlene
    Dividing it is usually not recommended since they don’t like to have their roots disturbed and may not survive transplant shock. It would cause more harm than good. If you want to try, do it in the spring before new growth begins or after it is done blooming. Another way is to top dress your root bound gardenia in the spring. Remove or scrape away the top 1-2 inches of potting soil and then replace it with fresh potting soil that includes a slow-release fertilizer. Gardenia bloom best when they are a little pot bound.

  • Marsha

    My Mother has a Gardenia that is a beautiful thing but it hasn’t bloomed since 3 years ago when I got it for her. She has books on how to take of them and follows all the neccessary care, she has had them in the past but they have always bloomed, she even had one with 54 flowers on it once. Do you have any ideas?.
    Thanks,
    Marsha

    HI Marsha
    I’m assuming the plant is getting all its requirements. There are so many variables that the fussy gardenia needs to bloom. Low humidity is the major factor for no blooms. Perhaps its not getting enough light or the fertilizer is wrong. They also like to be slightly root bound to bloom.

  • Sara

    APHIDS

    Hello, I have an indoor Gardenia tree in Vancouver Canada. I bought it 3 months ago and it has done wonderfully up until now. My Gardenia is wilting and leaves are yellow but the flowers are also covered with white flakes. What are these white flakes?

    Hi Sara
    Is there any sticky substance on the surface of some of the leaves? Aphids may be the problem. They leave white skins on the plant after they molt.

  • Missy

    WINTER CARE

    Hi I live in North East CT I have an outdoor Gardenia tree that I bought in the beginning of the summer and it has been doing very well. I have been getting beautiful flowers but I have to bring it in soon, the nights have been getting colder. What does the temp have to be when its time to bring it in? And how do I winterize it? Do i need to change the soil completely? I dont want to loose it over the winter HELP :)

    HI Missy
    The article above on Gardenia will give you some tips on winter care. Bring your plant indoors when temperatures get below 50F. No need to repot or change the soil. They really don’t like their roots disturbed. You can repot after it is done blooming .Be sure to give it lots of humidity during the winter. Good luck

  • Tina

    I have just purchased 5 medium sized Gardenia Bushes to place in my front landscape beds throughout yesterday and today. I live in the Upstate of South Carolina, so I do live in a hardier zone for Gardenia growth. My worry is that I have placed them in a location that gets full sun during the hottest parts of the day. I am not so worried about it during this lovely fall weather, but I fear for next summer. Will they completely die off next year? This summer we ahd several 90+ degree days. I think my best bet would have been to do a bit more research before snagging them up at the nursery. I really don’t have any other area to plant them, as Azaleas are filling up the side of my house. Any tips/ideas as to the best care for them?

    HI Tina
    Gardenia can tolerate full sun, but as you mentioned it may be a problem in the hottest time of the summer. The best you can do is wait and see. The fall weather will help establish the plants. Mulch the plants with 2-3 ” of wood chips to keep the roots moist and cool. Be sure to fertilize with Azalea food once a month during the growing season and make sure it gets enough water during the hot season. A tree to provide some dappled summer shade would be nice. Good luck with your gardenia. Hope they grow well.

  • Mary Williams

    I live in central Connecticut. This past May I bought a corsage gardenia “tree” (about 4 feet tall. When I began to have bud drop and yellowing leaves drop, I fed it a liquid chelated iron mixture about mid August. It responded beautifully and has lots of buds once again. However, the leaves have begun to yellow again and now I’m afraid I will lose the buds. How often can I feed it with the chelated iron? It was on my deck until last week when I brought it indoors. It has plenty of light and I’ve fed it with miracid twice in the past month. It’s my absolute favorite flower and I’d hate to lose it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Hi Mary
    You can feed chelated iron 2-3 times a year. One of the problems may be cold temperature. Gardenias need a temperature of 62-63F when buds are forming or the buds will drop. If the temperatures goes below 55F the plant is unable to use iron and the leaves become chlorotic (yellow). Make sure it is in a warm place with high humidity and then apply the iron. Also check for insects-they can also cause yellowing leaves.

  • Cathie

    I just purchased a gardenia veitchii yesterday, an impulse buy. I know nothing about growing gardenias. The only thing I’ve grown is roses. This gardenia is going in a pot, how big a pot does it need? I have one that is about a 10 gal that I was thinking of putting it in, but would that be to big to start? It’s probably a little less than 12″ tall and wide right now. Also how deep does it need to be planted? Does it need anything other than potting soil, I use moisture control miracle gro. I do have a soilless rose planting mix that has a lot of different compost type things in it (composted bat guano, chicken manure, alfalfa meal, worm casings and lots of other stuff too, organics), would it hurt it to add some of that in? I live in the Bay Area of CA and the temp here is fairly cool about this time of year. It averages highs in the mid 60’s lows in the mid 40’s. Is this temp okay for it to be outside now? It does get hot in the summer for highs, 90-100’s. Will it do okay in morning shade and direct afternoon sun? It can be moved to get more shade if needed, especially in the summer months. Can it be pruned down to keep it fairly small if needed or will that hurt it? Thanks for any info you can give!

    Hi Cathie
    I would not transplant the gardenina at this time as they don’t like their roots to be disturbed especially when they are starting to form flower buds. Gardenia set flower buds in the fall. Repot after the plant is done blooming and plant it at the same soil level that it was growing. You can mix in some compost to your soil mix, just make sure it drains well. Keep in mind that when you use moisture control soil the plant will need less watering. Afternoon sun in summer may be too much, I would move it to a shadier spot at that time. Pruning should also be done after bloom. Gardenia is hardy in zone 8-11

  • Haley

    I live in Houston, Texas. I have Gardenia planted in front of my house. They have lots of flowers, but the leaves look like the have a layer of black powder on it. From earlier comment, I think it might be aphids. What can I use to treat aphids?

    Hi Haley
    Gardenia in bloom are difficult to treat as any spray may also damage the flowers. You can try yellow sticky traps to attract the aphids or handpick by squeezing them between your fingers to reduce the population. A hard spray of water can knock them down. Neem and a pyrethrum/alcohol spray are effective. Look into pyrethrin sprays labeled for gardenia. Insecticidal soap can cause sensitivity to gardenia plants so that’s not recommended.

  • Kathryn

    Enjoyed reading all the questions and comments! I have an outside gardenia that lives in a pot facing the east morning sun. When temps get below freezing, I move it to the garage until the temps come back up. Here it is late November, temps in 40’s & 50’s day, low 30’s and 20’s nights - my gardenia is full of huge buds! Why?

    Hi Kathryn
    Congratulations!! Apparently, your hardy gardenia liked the humidity and cooler temperatures( 10-15 degree temperature differential) it received to set bud.

  • Sharon

    I live in California, my gardenia plant is in a pot out on my porch, the leaves are beautifully green, however they are droopy . I have watered it, but it just stays droopy, no flowers yet. What is wrong?
    Thanks

    Hi Sharon
    The wilting problems may be caused by either too much water or not enough water. If you soil is wet and the gardenia is still wilted, then it may be overwatered which can cause root rot. Be sure the pot drains well and the plant is not standing in water. If it is a case of underwatering, the plant should perk up within a few hours after watering.

  • Christina

    Transplanting gardenia

    Hi! I got a gardenia from Home Depot a few days ago (I live in South Florida) and I planted it in a place that gets a half a day of sun, mulch, water, and the right fertilizer, but a few of its leaves have turned yellow and it’s buds aren’t opening. Also, it starts to wilt and then regains it strength again every few hours or so! I read somewhere else that because it’s from Home Depot, it might already have a ton of fertilizer in it. Is there any truth to that? I stopped watering it a couple of days ago just in case, because I thought I may have watered it too much.

    Hi Christina
    It is going through transplant shock . No need to fertilize right now, gardenia don’t like their roots disturbed and need to acclimate to the new environment. Let the plant dry out a bit between watering to avoid overwatering . Because the roots have been disturbed, the leaves are wilting and yellowing. The damaged roots cannot send up enough water to the leaves when the sun hits them, thereby causing them to wilt. The gardenia recovers when there is less stress on the plant. Yellowing leaves will also occur as the plant tries to reduce the amount of leaves it needs to maintain. It needs time to recover.

  • Paula LeMond

    I am a Master Gardener and a friend brought me something I’ve never seen. The 10 year old dwarf gardenias in his yard are covered with what looks like red buls. On closer inspection, it looks like the base of the bloom never separated from the plant and has produced a seed pot. Is this possible?

    HI Paula
    Yes, its possible that you have a seed pod. Here’sa picture of a pod. Plate 14

  • Ann

    I have a gardenia tree , it was doing pretty well outside, since I got it inside I noticed something everyday, my latest problem was white skins on the buds & leaves was shinyy & sticky. I cut the bud & took the nursery ( the spray they gave didn’t work), my second visit he told me to clean the leafs with alcohol ( and that I think killing my plant now), I still have those white skins (not like before but still some) and now most of the leafs dried & turned dark brown. Any suggestions? what can I do about white skins? and what can I do about dry brown leafs? (it doesn’t turn yellow, just dark dry brown). Thank any info you can give me.

    Hi Ann
    Sounds like you have aphids. The white skins are cast skins of aphids. You don’t mention what kind of sprays you used. Gardenias are sensitive to insecticidal soap. A hard spray with the hose will help elliminate most but not all. Look into pyrethrin sprays labeled for gardenia. Neem and a pyrethrum/alcohol spray are also effective. Several treatments are needed in order to be effective.

  • Ann

    Leaf drop

    I lost most of the leafs of my gardenia tree & I trimmed some ( everyday I have dry brown leaves) even green leaves are just dry, I don’t know what’s going on, still living for now but not much leaves left & I still have that aphids ( gonna look for pyrethrin spray). thank you, any ideas about dry leaves ( not yellow) just dry (some are dark brown or black) and some green ( but dry).

    HI Ann
    In addition to the insect problem, a gardenia will drop healthy leaves when the soil and/or air moisture is too dry (low humidity). Exposure to drafts such as heating vents and air conditioning will also cause leaves to drop. Leaves that turn dark brown/black can be caused by keeping the plant too cool ( below 50 degrees). You may need to increase the humidity indoors.

  • Ann

    Thanks for your quick respond, my gardenia tree is front of the window & next to the heating vent ( even I closed the vent) it might be to dry & too cold ( for being right front of the window). I am going to move the plant from there to another place tomorrow morning. I have one more question though, I want to buy a humidifier ( for the gardenia, for the increase the humidity), which one should I get? warm or cool moisture humidifier? Thank you very much.

    I don’t know much about humidifiers, I would think the warm air one would work in the near vicinity of the plant. You can also use a pebble tray-which is a large saucer with a layer of pebbles and a layer of water just below the pebbles. Place the plant on top of the pebbles. The evaporating moisture will benefit your plant. Grouping several plant together also helps increase humidity.

  • Jennifer

    I have a gardenia bush that I planted last spring and it has grown beautifully outside. I’m concerned about it now since winter has started. I live in zone 7 and it has gotten down into the 20s some nights. I’ve noticed the bush has turned very brown even though I’ve been covering it with a sheet on the coldest nights. Will it get new growth in the spring and will it bloom? Do I need to prune the old growth back in early spring? Do gardenias usually survive winter in zone 7? I would appreciate some advice on this. It was doing so well before I would hate to see it die. Thanks!

    Hi Jennifer
    Gardenias are marginally hardy in zone 7B-with protection or a cold-hardy variety “Kleims hardy”, otherwise most are hardy in zones 9-11. It sounds like yours have been exposed to cold temperatures and that is why the leaves are tunring brown/black. It will not tolerate temperatures below 40F. If your plant is in the ground, cover it with a blanket and add a couple inches of mulch around the base of the plant to help protect the roots. If it survives the winter, you may have to prune away the dead stems in the spring.

  • Jennifer

    Thank you for answering my question above. I thought of one more thing to ask about my gardenia. If it does show signs of growth in the spring, can I transplant it into a large pot so I can move it inside during the next winter? I just wondered if moving it from the ground into a pot would kill it even more or would be ok to do. Thanks.

    Hi Jennifer
    Gardenias do not like their roots disturbed, so it won’t be happy for a while but leaving it outdoors for the winter will eventually kill it. Transplant your gardenia in late winter when it is dormant. Before transplanting, cut back some of the top growth up to 1/3 to give the roots less to feed and make the plant more manageable. Once planted water in well and give it a root starter to help stimulate new root growth.

  • Ronald

    I have a gardenia for 30 years. Now after bringing indoors for 1 month from outside, the leaves are starting to dry and turn brown to black. It’s like the plant is not getting water to its leaves. I had a problem with aphids this summer but successfully treated it and had the tree bloom during the summer. Some branches are also dry and when you break them they snap. Others are still elastic. Is the environment not humid enough? Is it possible their are aphids in the root not showing up on the leaves or branches? I also had a couple of other small gardenias which died in a similar fashion during this month after bringing indoor. Thanks

  • Suzanne

    I have a Gardenia that is wilting , has some brown spotted leaves, and some leaves are crips and almost dead. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Hi Suzanne
    There are some leaf spot fungal diseases that will cause brown spots on the leaves. I suspect that it started with a watering problem. If the soil is wet and the plant is wilted then you have a root rot problem. Remove any spotted leaves as it can spread and avoid wetting the foliage. Its best to water thoroughly and less often. Let the plant dry slightly before watering again.

  • tmorgan

    HI,

    I live in Alabama and bought a Gardenia Tree. It did very well till I brought it in to save it from our severe cold weather. I think it dried out way too much and my gas heat is not allowing for enough humidity. Here is my problem all my leaves except for the very tips have fallen off, I think due to lack of water and moving it into my house. I popped all the buds off at the ends because I am more concerned with surviving then it trying to bloom. It always is trying to bloom but leave production is very mild. I want it to look like a bush tree and now it looks like a naked tree does in the fall. The very end tips are green and have 2 leaves each on about 20 limbs but that’s it. Can I prune it back and make it start budding leaves again? If not when do I prune it and How? Most of the limbs are av shaped with the middle limb cut off from when I bought it.

  • Wanda

    I am “babysitting” my daughter’s Gardenia tree. About a month ago I noticed some of the leaves had a sticky substance on them. The floor around it also had the sticky substance. The back of the leaes had black specks. Whey rub of and look dark green when in my hand.
    I have tried handwashing all the leaves. I then put the plant in the bathtub and gave it a shower.
    I noticed the stickyness and black specks are back.
    Is there something else I should do?

  • Elena

    Chlorosis on gardenia

    I live in South Florida and have a gardenia planted next to my east facing patio. Admittedly, I have not taken the best care of it over the years. Despite my neglect, it has somehow thrived, until recently. Over the past several months the leaves have started to turn yellow with the veins remaining green. I have tried fertilizing regularly with Miracid, but the problem persists and may even be worsening. I recently read that using distilled water, rather than tap water, may be better for gardenias. I have not yet tried that, but wanted to know if there is something else I should be doing.

    Hi Elena
    I’m assuming that your gardenia is planted in the ground. I would suggest that you test the soil ph, to make sure it is low enough(acid) to make iron available to the plant.
    Here are some other ideas, gardenias that are growing under cold conditions (below 60F) for extended periods can also become chlorotic (iron)because the cold temperatures reduce nutrient absorption. They don’t take up as much iron causing chlorosis. Chlorosis is prevalent on the new growth . It can also be a sign of root disease caused by keeping the soil too wet.
    For a quick fix add chelated iron to the soil or spray it on the leaves. If you don’t see any results in 2 weeks, try again. Another option is to apply ammonium sulfate or iron sulfate around the dripline of the soil. Follow the manufactureres label and avoid spraying any concrete, stucco etc as it will stain the surface. If that doesn’t work then there may be a problem with the roots being unable to absorb the iron and you may have to improve the soil the gardenia is growing in.

  • I am at my mothers in Naples, Florida where her gardenia has a covering of black “soot” underneath leaves, on top of the leaves as well as on some of the branches. I was told to use detergent soapy water and “clean off” each leaf. Is there anything else I can do? We have not seen any aphids or bug activity.

    Hi Elaine
    Insects such as scale and whitefly also produce honeydew which sooty mold grows on. The problem with sooty mold is that it blocks light from entering the leaves which inhibits photosynthesis (food production) which can cause yellowing leaves and leaf drop. Scale and Whitefly seem to be a favorite pest of Gardenia. For scale look closely on the stems and leaves for bumps that can be scraped off. If you brush against the shrub and little white flies emerge then you have white fly . Once you get rid of the bug, you’ll get rid of sooty mold. Easier said than done. If you have an insect problem, you can spray the plant with Orthene (acephate) Malathion or use a systemic (disulfoton) that is absorbed by the roots and renders the plant poisonous. Read the manufacturers label for safe usage.
    If your gardenia is underneath a tree that is dripping honeydew from an insect infestation, then you’ll have to control the insect in the tree. Sooty mold should wash away with winter rain or can be wiped off with soapy water. for more info. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74108.html

留下回复

You can use these HTML tags

<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>