植物护理及园艺小贴士

Hydrangia护理

我有非常大的健康Hydrangia树叶，但没有盛开。 我该怎么办？

首先，你必须确定是什么样的绣球你。 一些常见的原因是盛开的失败是1 。 太多的阴影 ，所有的增长，但在局部遮荫太多会影响开花。 2 。 如果你住在凉爽的气候，在花芽可能有冬天的损害 。 只有顺利（阁下藜）和穗（阁下檀）绣球花新木; bigleaf绣球（阁下花）盛开的旧木材主要这意味着它们需要建立自己的味蕾在一年内，然后通过冬季开花到下一年。 此外，有些品种的bigleaf还盛开的新的增长点。 3 。 修剪-注意时机。 明智的修剪是很重要的。 太多修剪明年将松散的味蕾。 如果您修剪，以减少高度，这样做后，开花。 如果您修剪，以薄的工厂，削减一些最古老的起源到地面水平在早春（休眠季节） 。 最绣球生长良好，没有修剪了。

当是最好的时间来削减绣球？

的最佳时间是早春修剪，并立即开花后。 它有助于了解什么样的绣球你知道多少修剪。
H.arborescens花新木，这样你就可以减少降低到1 / 2大小或6 “地上在冬季或初春。 没有修剪会给你少强劲增长和更小的鲜花。
阁下栾 -相同阁下立。
阁下 Bigleaf绣球花 ，盛开的旧木材（除了无尽的夏季 ，竹篙Mac和整个夏季美容）不修剪，只有删除花的花朵。 剪下下方的花头。 任何其他修剪将减少花卉生产为下个赛季。 你越是少花削减你会得到。
阁下quercifolia ， Oakleaf绣球花旧木修剪一样阁下花。 剪枝在早春形状或薄的植物，而牺牲的花朵。

有很大的收集绣球这里购买：

1. 射击之星绣球 我刚刚购买了两个射击之星绣球，也被称为斐济瀑布， ...
2. 无尽的夏季绣球 '无尽的夏季'绣球是一小群八仙...
3. 攀登八仙 八仙绣球异常攀登亚。 petiolaris称为攀登绣球被视为...
4. Brugmansia照顾 Brugmansia ，安琪尔小号是一个大灌木或小乔木大， ...
5. 越来越铁线 莲据传铁线藤难以成长。 鉴于...
6. 花店绣球 我有一个漂亮的盆栽绣球，我收到了花店...
7. 栀子照顾 的有光泽的深绿色叶子和花朵芬芳乳白色的...

（尚无评分）

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2004年10月19号|分类： 花园回顾 | 65评论

65评论Hydrangia护理

• mpbeebe

  04年10月28日在下午12时31分 引

  我怎么知道什么样的绣球我，和我怎么知道什么时候剪枝，如果它不开花？

  以下是一些品种的绣球： 光滑绣球 （绣球藜）是哈代区4月9日。 这本地灌木得到3-4英尺高，有一个圆形传播形式。 叶片大，全方位，深绿色。 花朵是奶油色的四舍五入集群。 '安娜贝丽'和'花'很受欢迎的品种。 它盛开在新的木材因此，如果您降低旧茎地面在冬末您仍需花在下一个季节。

  穗绣球 （绣球树）是哈代区3-8 。 这是最耐寒的所有绣球。 这种多源于灌木增长10月20号英尺高（有些品种较小） 。 叶子椭圆形，深绿色和深veined 。 它锥形集群已融合了小型和大型象牙白色的花，粉红色的变化，随着年龄的铜牌。 有些品种是'花'或PeeGee ， ' Tardiva ' ，布鲁塞尔花边'和'粉红钻石。 它还盛开的新的木材。
  Bigleaf绣球 （阁下叶）是哈代区6-9 。 它有一个mounded ，广泛形式生长3-6英尺高。 叶深绿色，大椭圆形状。 这是著名的茂密花朵，来无论是在全球形形式或lacecap花朵。 该“ mophead ”形状的巨大圆形盛开的鲜花组成的花架子;而lacecap组持平华丽花小星花的中心。 其中一些品种是'日光蓝' ，永远粉红'和'炙热余烬' 。 这些盛开的老木（去年的增长） ，所以修剪开花后的高度 。 如果您在早春修剪你将失去一些鲜花。 有无尽的新品种夏（ ' Bailmer ' ） ，将盛开的老的和新的木材，并代向区4 。 如果您修剪这是在错误的时间仍将在明年开花。

  Oakleaf绣球 （阁下quercifolia ）代区5月9日。 Ths多形式的增长源于6-8英尺高。 很容易认出其oakleaf形floliage和长期锥形集群鲜花。 赤潮旧木材，所以开花后修剪权利。

• 杰米尼克松

  2005年1月4日在上午11时23 引

  花是蓝色;受精场，花了丑陋的紫色。 我想蓝回。

  有可能是您改变了pH值的土壤施肥 。 蓝色绣球要求pH值5.0 - 5.5 ，以便它能够吸收aluminun化合物它需要得到蓝色。 较高的pH值关系的化合物，从而使之无法使用，生产的粉红色的颜色。 在短期适用aluminun硫酸 ，以降低土壤的pH值获得蓝绣球

• 科琳娜

  2005年3月26日在下午3时02分 引

  对切花的table.I买了一些hydranga鲜花和他们去droppy 。 有什么我能做的，使它们返回。 还从我的花园里时，我将一些从我hydranga胸部，可以采取哪些措施来使他们寻找充分和漂亮。 还有一个问题，如果我要干他们，什么是最好的事情。
  谢谢科琳娜

  切花在当日过早。 他们尝试recutting时，下垂。 干燥绣球 ，时机是很重要的。 轻轻挤压花和感受略有纸质阻力，检查所有小花然后剪下并在一个花瓶，并让干燥。 另一种方法是降低花卉在一个花瓶装满水，让花吸收的水，然后使其干燥。

• 贝蒂

  2005年4月3日在上午8时32 引

  我有一个欢乐hydrangrea东京 。 有谁知道什么“类型” ，这是好让我能确定如何最好地修剪？
  谢谢。

  东京喜悦是一个品种的八仙花， bigleaf绣球。 赤潮旧木材做修剪权开花后。 赤潮7至8月 哈迪在5区5-9虽然是“ iffy ” ，可以从模具回到寒冬摧毁明年的花朵。

• 无名氏

  2005年4月28日在下午4时07分 引

  叶片卷曲，并变成黑色或深色的边缘。

  布朗清晰边缘表明盐烧伤（太多肥料）干旱应力，或土壤板结。

• 维多利亚詹德

  2005年5月8日在下午6时29 引

  Hydrangas ：他们是否有毒 ？ 我想种些的一个花园访问的老年痴呆症病人。 有时候，他们“吃的雏菊。 ”

  是的，根据美国军方中心卫生部，花芽是最有毒的。 症状在injestion ：氰化物中毒，腹痛，呕吐及嗜睡。

• 开发协会华生

  2005年5月21日在下午2点59分 回复

  我刚刚买了粉红色的绣球 。 什么样（号码即10-10-10 ） 肥料我应该使用保持粉红色。

  这取决于类型的土壤你。 一些地区自然碱性（红色） ，另一些则是更多的酸性。 如果颜色开始发生变化，然后改变pH值的土壤和购买石灰保持粉红色 。 对于一般施肥，迈克尔Dirr ，建议使用4盎司 10-10-10 scathered的外向基地周围的植物在早春叶片出现之前。 他还建议Osmocote或Nutricote 。

  我的隔壁邻居有紫色绣球和我医科大学蓝...我们交换和蓝紫色转向种植当我在我家...我如何让紫色回来。 唐娜皮维

  颜色取决于pH值在您的土壤。 显然你有一个较低的pH值在你的土壤造成的花朵把蓝色，而非紫色。 如果您增加了pH值，增加石灰（甜味剂的土壤） ，您的鲜花将反过来紫色。

  2007年2月9日
  Tawnie （ mccrarytawnie@comcast.net / ）
  我买了绿色，粉红色 ， 紫色的植物 。明年他们都盛开蓝色。 我怎么把他们回到他们原来的颜色？

  土壤中的地区必须有一个较低的pH值，其中八仙自然盛开蓝色。 您可以检查pH值与土壤测试。 为了提高pH值为6.0-6.2 （这是最好的粉红色）您需要添加白云质石灰几次一年怀柔土壤。 使用化肥有高水平的磷（中东＃ ）和铝。 铝是很容易采取行动的植物在低pH值土壤产生蓝色，而较高的pH值降低铝的吸收造成粉红色花朵。 要么你接受有关自然越来越习惯蓝色，试图改变pH值，或增加您的植物在一个容器的颜色会更容易控制。

• 丹Trivino

  2005年6月4日在上午06时48 引

  这是6月4日在新泽西州，是确定移植绣球

  最佳时间移植绣球是早春芽之前或在秋季时，植物在休眠状态。 任何其他时候你就可以把植物的冲击，它可能无法生存。 当您这样做移植灌溉和婴儿工厂就像一个新的种植。 当挖掘您绣球尝试让尽量多的根源和最不发达国家大量root干扰得到更好的结果。

• 我国索利斯

  2005年6月5日在下午八时29 引

  我厂是罚款，直到几天前，当我喂养它的酸肥。 现在，叶子谈到布朗在边缘和冰壶。 它是在局部遮荫＆太阳。 发生了什么事？

  这听起来像过多或过高浓度肥料和化肥厂正在经历烧伤。太多施肥不浇水以及在生产集中的解决方案，使人们难以对植物吸收的水。 该工厂是无法使用所有的肥料。 水工厂彻底稀释和溶解肥料和任何机会让水流失。 这样做了好几次。

• 克里斯蒂娜沃克

  2005年6月7日在下午十二时25 引

  我有一个蓝绣球和我没有部分太阳/遮阳面积在我码这是在充分的太阳。 它盛开的花朵，但是似乎死于较快。 我应该关心？

  蓝绣球喜欢部分遮荫，充分孙（下午遮荫是最好的炎热气候） 。 褪色的花可能更快，因为太多的阳光。 只要它是健康的和日益增长的你不应该担心。

• 霞

  2005年6月15日在下午6时21 引

  我有一个紫色的工厂，变成蓝色。我 repotted更大的容器及现在的green.My最喜欢的是紫色/帮助！

  当您再植的pH值是不同的土壤 ，改变颜色。 添加硫酸铝的土壤。 您将需要为此每月将需要时间作任何改变，以查看。 的最佳时机就是在春季时，工厂才刚刚开始形成花朵。 机会是您将看不到太大的变化，今年。 但请记住，您需要为此明年保持蓝/紫色。 蓝色需要更多的酸比紫色，让您将您的应用程序进行监测。

• 乔威尔逊

  2005年6月20日在上午05时06分 引

  你可以做什么，如果叶子边缘是深褐色 。 这家工厂已在地面约3钼是种植开花了。 这是在当地购买的花园中心。

  绣球花，如供水，可能是他们太干或接触过多太阳和炎热的天气会造成灼人。

• 艾米泰勒

  2005年6月22日在上午01点35分 回复

  我只种了粉红色的绣球，获得了朝阳，一些阴影和更下午太阳从一日至七日在晚上。 该花的最后一天是下垂，他们衰落从一个相当粉红到冲毁了近白色，花朵也有褐变的边缘。 是太多阳光，或有此预期，除非能够成立？ ？ ？ ？

  听起来太阳光。 下午的阳光（最热的一部分天）是艰难的绣球，许多人喜欢的部分遮荫环境。

• 丁文琪克雷默

  2005年6月27日在下午3时17 引

  如果绣球花被切断时，花是花，当是最好这样做，当花盛开是完全或更早？ 在哪一点上干你截的花盛开？ 谢谢您

  八仙花和H.锯缘青蟹，布卢姆旧木材。 气候温暖的权利开花后修剪，在凉爽的气候让鲜花在冬季，以保护下一代岁。 芽和修剪在春季。 削减一个健康对脂肪芽（最多12英寸） 。 绣球花的盛开的新的木材可以修剪后开花。

• 埃德温娜诺里斯

  2005年7月6日在下午8时58 引

  我要如何对待黑点在我的绣球叶？

  叶斑病时发生水开销 。 水对叶片和湿度有助于实现了真菌引起叶斑病。这是难看，但不会伤害植物。 一旦真菌存在，没有任何你可以做的。 您可以喷洒在春季与杀菌剂作为预防措施或更改您的日常用水浇灌的土壤，避免水的叶子。

• 凯蒂

  2005年7月17号在上午11点46 引

  朋友说我的丑陋的老太太淡紫色绣球（品种不详）将绿/白，如果我购买的理由使用咖啡在土壤水平;不会影响其中的酸性蓝色花吗？ 谢谢。

  八仙花品种不仅如日光蓝，玛蒂尔德Gutges和无休止夏季有能力发紫。 随着年龄的花的颜色会变成绿色，并最终石灰干以米色（浅棕色）的颜色。 通过降低pH值通过咖啡理由，粉红色可能变成白色/绿色取决于品种。 尝试，看看会发生什么。

• 戴安娜鲍威尔

  2005年7月19号在下午4点45分 回复

  萎蔫Hydrangia树叶。 是盆栽植物，而不是暴露在炎热的太阳。 器官移植是一个从地面，但现在在一个集装箱内。 叶片继续枯萎即使浇水。

  Tranplanting将冲击整个工厂包括根源。 没有足够的根源，以支持叶片。 保持在一个阴影，保护区，直到植物复苏。 小心，不要overwater因为这将邀请根腐病问题，底水（让工厂站在水可达45分钟。他们流失） 。

• 海伦桑德尔莫

  2005年8月17号在上午9时11 引

  您好
  我有两个蓝色日光绣球灌木丛我刚刚买了约一个月前。 每开花非常好，我唯一担心的是，这些灌木丛都很低地面，不到2英尺高。 我种的每一个方面的前端门口，以为每个将增长约4-6英尺高。 这是一个现实的期望？ 如果是的话，需要多长时间他们实际上像灌木丛？ 我的绣球确实在地面上爬行在这一点上。 用棍棒将举行重分支机构的帮助呢？ 任何说明这将是极大的赞赏。

  日光蓝可以获得高达6英尺高。 您的绣球是刚刚开始适应新的环境。 一个健康的绣球将增加每年的大小。 冬季保护重要的是为明年的开花结果。 一定要覆盖以及在冬季，以保护它从冻结。 查看评论日期8月5日的梅利莎。

  1月汉弗莱（ hgunner24 @ wmconnect
  我已开始5 日兴蓝绣球从剪报，他们在4个“盆现在。 我如何照顾他们的冬天？

  如果您住在北方气候，不要让新工厂的第一冬季冻结。 他们需要babied 。 没有足够的生存根系发达的冻结。 最好让他们在保护区越冬。

• 德布约翰逊

  2005年8月18号在上午06时31 引

  什么是最好的时机， 以植物的绣球 ？

  最佳时间是在春季霜冻后的危险已经过去，或在今年秋季之前，昼夜温差开始进行32度。 植物45-60天前第一次预计冻结。 当在秋季播种，适用于1 / 4力量化肥，以帮助建立根源和水井。

• 基因

  2005年9月22日在下午七时14 引

  我住在凤凰城阿尔克马尔。 我应该在哪里植物我的粉红色绣球。 它将充分孙整个夏季或者我应该植物科技部分共享？
  多少和我应该多久水。
  由于气温这么炎热的太阳，我想它在植物孙/部分遮阳（上午和下午的太阳阴影） 。 水根据工厂的需要。 如果您有热水，增加您的大风天浇水。 一般法则是1英寸深每周开销浸泡不洒。

• 辛迪

  2005年10月9号在下午6时12 引

  我刚刚买了，并种植了可怜安娜贝丽hydrangia （大叶）今天- 10月！ 我应该购买化肥在这一点上，或等到喷泉？ 此外，因为它是一个可悲的状态，我应该支付它今年冬天？

  得到它在地面上，不施肥为你不希望任何新的增长上。 覆盖好过冬。 这是哈代区4月9日，是一个艰难的绣球花新的木材，因此，您可以剪下老茎到地面，并在晚冬仍有鲜花。 在春季施肥时，新的增长点出现。

• 桑迪菲茨休

  2005年11月3号在上午05时42分 引

  我有一个“大” hydrangia ，我在外面一锅 。 我要如何照顾到了冬天这里在俄亥俄州？ 我理解它是有毒的，我的狗感到担忧，以便使之内。 无论如何，以保存它把它放在一个棚，以保护它？

  是的，您可以随时潜伏在车库或地区，也不会冻结。 包装容器绝缘保持根冻结。

• Joanie

  2006年1月23日在上午03时25 引

  一个非常良好的网页谁像我这样的人正在试图增加一些hydrangias 。 这是1月23日和我住在Zephyrhills佛罗里达。 我已经购买了一个美丽的粉红色hyrdrangia中的花园商店昨晚。 我想工厂外面。 前面我的公寓面临北部，我厂本可以吗？ 我们很少有冻结提醒在这一领域的佛罗里达州。 我不知道的名称hyrdrangia ，再次，它是一个中等色调的粉红色。
  非常感谢您的任何信息，您可以给我。

  您可以植物它，只要在室外温度不低于40度。 如果有霜冻警告，我将建议涉及植物尤其是如果您有新的多汁增长。 降温使根系发育良好。

• keeli罗布克

  2006年4月7日在上午06时37 引

  我买了我的绣球2年前，当我第一次买的是一个美丽的丁香和紫色 ，播种后在一大壶它自己在明年夏天它已变成一个肮脏的粉红 ！ 这我觉得很没有吸引力...我如何得到它回到它的颜色？ 什么土壤使用？

  诀窍保持紫色是添加硫酸铝渗入土壤。 如果您有碱性土壤您需要添加硫酸铝保持较低的pH值，获得了“蓝”色。 开始在本赛季初的工厂开始增长，这将需要一段时间发生变化。 继续增加人每月硫酸整个生长季节保持颜色。

  米歇尔韦克斯勒（ mhwexler@earthlink.net / ）
  可以粉红色大叶植物改为蓝色 ？ 矿植物洞非常好，他们是在一个非常好的现货上午过滤太阳下午遮荫。 时应删除我的花朵，他们年老时，把一个绿色的颜色？

  这取决于您是否拥有阁下大的权利和品种，如“日光蓝” “ Ebziandom或”玛蒂尔德Gutges 。 “他们最好的回应，然后颜色可以从薰衣草以紫色蓝色。 为了能够使其把蓝色你必须把它与硫酸铝在春季和继续保持每个月的酸性土壤需要。 一些想保存开花和干他们或者您也可以降低他们这样做后，开花。 花盛开的旧木材，所以不要削减太多，因为它会影响明年的开花。

  什么化学我应该使用改变我的绣球从粉红色到蓝色的？

  它不是简单地增加了化学品渗入土壤。 两个重要因素，需要改变颜色的1 。 低土壤pH值（约5 ） 2 。 硫酸铝或硫会增加酸度和改变颜色为蓝色。 在酸性条件下的土壤使人们有可能转换铝化合物，使植物可以吸收它。 颜色的变化，只会发生在Hydrangia花（ Bigleaf ） ，其中有色素。 白色的花绣球将永远不会发展蓝色花不论土壤pH值。

• Leanne

  2006年4月14日在上午5点58分 回复

  我收到了粉红Hydrangia厂从一个花园中心（ Costco公司） 。 我不知道如何处理它，应该是我厂外或留在盆栽，它进来没有照顾或植物类型的标签。 我住在加拿大安大略省东部，非常寒冷的冬季。 请告知。
  谢谢， Leanne

  如果这是一个温室礼品厂 ，然后有一个很好的机会，这不是在加拿大和哈代会死在冬天。 这些植物生长的温室条件下控制生产大型华丽的花，而牺牲健康的植物。 如果这是一个苗圃种植植物的户外活动，有机会的花园中心将出售的产品是代你的地区，但奇怪的事情已经知道发生。 我还是工厂，并希望最好的。 无论哪种方式，您有任何松动。 克里斯

• 维维安

  2006年4月16日在下午1时十八 引

  余recentely购买6绣球。 我离开他们的花盆了好几天，所有的罚款。 一周不久前，我埋设这些地雷的地区，在阴凉处，直到傍晚的太阳。 现在，所有的花都是下垂到地面和所有蜷缩，和叶子下垂与其中的一些易碎的边缘。 我做了些什么事？ 他们正在浇水的自动喷水灭火系统在我们的院子里。 我已做了大量的研究之前，我种植hyrdrangeas ，并不能想象有什么问题。 你能帮助！ 请！
  维维安，北德州

  您的绣球是在移植震惊和需要时间来恢复。 至于浇水，洒水不是最好的方式供水。 它可能导致更多的问题，尝试水在土壤的水平，如滴灌软管。 一般性建议根据天气和温度为一英寸的水/每周两次到工厂成立。

• 克里斯蒂娜Andrzejewski

  2006年5月7日在上午05时16 引

  我住在东北部（马萨诸塞州） 。 去年夏天我种阁下 大叶 。 我没有修剪的植物在冬季之前。 现在是春天（我还没有修剪）和绣球看上去已经死亡。 两端这些“死”分行泪滴形状和干燥。 这些新的芽？ 也有绿叶的基础上的植物。 是太晚了修剪？ 我很困惑。

  如果目的是黑暗和干有可能是一些冬季损害将影响到今年的鲜花。 如果您有“无尽的夏天”绣球，那么你仍然可以得到一些花。 该工厂还活着因为它发出了新的经济增长从根源。 删除损坏的部分分支机构最多的健康部分干。 明年秋季保护您的绣球包裹分支机构在塑料项圈类似上升锥。

• 阿曼达斯奈德

  2006年5月19号在下午3点19分 回复

  我有一个HOBELLA ＆ HOMIGO绣球 。 你能告诉我什么样我dealling与至于他们盛开的新的或旧的木材。 另外，有什么区别Hydranga小叶片或一个大叶，什么性质的差异是什么？ 由于100万的任何信息，您可以给我。 阿曼达南

  Hobella是lacecap软粉红和Homigo是一个mophead粉蓝色都是从销售Hovaria系列下的万花筒culitvars的八仙花 。 他们盛开旧木材。

• 珍妮特

  2006年6月8日在上午06时十一 引

  我能做些什么的白色白粉病在我的绣球？ 这是危险的丛林？ 什么原因呢？ 我住在南深。

  白粉病是由温暖的一天温度，冷夜和高湿度，也植物树荫很少空气流通。 绣球似乎很容易给它。 有些品种比其他人更能抵抗。 除了正在unsigthly ，它ususally不损害植物。 对于一些补救措施检查文章白粉病 。

• 杰弗里

  2006年7月13号在下午12时44 引

  我该如何宣传hydrangia ？ 多少支减少到我补种，使更多的植物。 什么是最好的污垢开始使用它。

  就4月6日“ 嫩枝扦插从一个新的经济增长至少有4只眼（芽） 。 采取的树叶从底部的一系列芽和削减顶端叶片一半。 这有助于减少水份的流失通过叶片。 浸切割中生根激素，并将其放置2 “深在无土混合珍珠岩和泥炭。 给它一个很好的浸泡。 保持容器远离阳光直接在一个理想的温度为70-75 。 保持或增加水分/湿度发生集装箱一个塑料袋使用棍子，使一个小温室。 可以肯定，它不会因为太热内，将库克工厂。 不要保持太湿，水当土壤看起来更轻，就像它是干燥。 您的切割应扎根于3-5周。 一旦根深蒂固，移植，慢慢暴露它早晨的太阳。 如果是长腿捏它回到促进bushier增长。 最佳时间做到这一点是在春季，使植物有足够的时间来建立一个强有力的根系过冬。

• 保罗

  2006年7月30号在下午10时54 引

  我没有绿拇指，但我的工厂正在做非常好。 我想sepecific ，详细的资料，修剪它们。 我hydrangias的盛开的时候。
  他们目前正“装”的花朵，但我不知道如何远离花切断。 一些花的花，现在，我想修剪它们。
  我也很试图找出如果我需要修剪任何绿叶。
  谢谢。 保罗

  如果你只是微调了死鲜花，切断他们略低于花到下一组味蕾。 我不会修剪任何在这个时候离开。 不知道到底是哪八仙你最好是修剪它毕竟年初春芽回报，这样，您就可以知道，越冬成活率。 如果你有一个绣球立＆石竹 （安娜贝勒＆撒尿吉斯） ，其中增长的新的经济增长就可以减少他们回1 / 2 。 这将形成了植物，并鼓励新的经济增长，有很多鲜花。

• 意向书普拉特

  2006年8月1日在上午5时16 引

  我有一个问题... 。为什么我的绣球植物形态芽，然后变成棕色，绝不布鲁姆？

  在花芽的绣球可能感染灰霉病菌，真菌病也被称为灰霉病。 它攻击所有植物部分，是一个结果下雨，积水， 间接浇水或露水温度32-84度之间。 尽量避免任何间接浇水通常是罪魁祸首。 You can treat it with a fungicide before blooming to reduce the infection. Botrytis will winter over in the soil and on plant debris, so be sure to remove and destroy any infected plant parts.

• Jim knapp

  December 14th, 2006 at 12:28 pm · Reply

  I have three hydrangeas and all three have died back to ground level this fall. One did the same last year. It had one small bud at ground level and I nursed it back to 18″ this year. What is causing them to die to ground level?

  It may be variety of hydrangea. Some are hardier than others and if you have one that is marginally hardy, perhaps a H. macrophylla, then it will die back from the freezing temperatures. Fortunately, the roots did not die and that’s why they send up new growth in the spring. Try mulching and protecting it as you would a rose bush to keep the stems from freezing. For winter protection mulch it with pine bark, leaves. One elaborate way is to trim the blooms and foliage and tie the stalks together and then slip a plastic collar (made from a nursery pot) over the plant and fill it will mulch. Wrap the tied stems with landscape fabric. This will keep the crown and stems snug and cozy for the winter

  。

• sandra

  April 5th, 2007 at 10:33 am · Reply

  i planted my hydrangia plants five of them about a week ago and last night we had a temps below 32 degrees and now they are wilted and maybe even a little brown will they be ok?

  Even if a plant is hardy, the emerging delicate growth is not as hardy as mature developed growth. There is not much you can do about the frost damage. Depending on the severity of damage, the plants may or may not recover. Wait and see, if the wilted branches do not recover prune them and you should get some new growth. If another frost is imminent cover the plants to protect the new growth. Depending on the type of hydrangea, you may have lost your flowers for the season.

• dcBird

  May 14th, 2007 at 3:44 pm · Reply

  I have one oakleaf hydrangea (got last year) and is doing beautifully. already grew almost 4 feet. What do I fertilize it with and when. I also planted 13 Endless Summer Hydrangea ad they are doing great. What’s for fertilizing then and when. Thanks.

  Fertilize hydrangea in early spring as new growth emerges with a 10-10-10 granular scattered around base of the plant and outward and 6 wks. later after blooming to encourage healthy growth. Follow manufacturers application recommendation. Do not fertilize after Aug. 1st.

• Donna

  May 15th, 2007 at 8:56 pm · Reply

  I just bought 4 of the new blushing brides (macrophylla’s ) 2 are white and the other 2 are blue. While I haven’t got to enjoy my first bloom just yet something is enjoying my leaves while I’m waiting for my new babies to bloom. Any Idea’s on what it my be and whats safe as a pesticide to put on my plants? I live in the Southeastern part of Guilford County in North Carolina if that’s of any help…..

  In general, Hydrangeas have little insect problems but I’m sure something has found your plant appetizing enough to eat. Some insects that can attack your plant are rose chafers, four-lined plant bug (causes round brown spots on leaves), horntail. Examine your plants closely to see if there are any insects (some show up at night). I would suggest you take the damaged leaf to where you bought it or to the local extension office to ID the problem. They can in turn give you a recommendation for an insecticide.

• Diane Carr

  June 3rd, 2007 at 9:14 pm · Reply

  I live in East TN. I planted a pink hydrangia several years ago. The leaves come back each year, but I never get to see the flowers, because the deer eat it. Is there anything I can do to keep the deer away?

  You can spray the plants with a deer repellent such as Liquid Fence (I smells bad). Repellents should be used early in the season before the deer get a taste of the plant and they need to be re-applied after a rain. Your other option is a 7 ft. fence. Make your own Deer repellent recipe

• Leslie

  June 23rd, 2007 at 4:40 pm · Reply

  Thanks so much! How much sun is ok for hydrangias ? The patio gets some morning sun. Also, how often should they be watered?

  Hydrangea likes morning sun(min 3 hrs. of direct sun) and afternoon shade. In cooler climates it will tolerate more sun conversely in hotter climates will tolerate more shade. The patio sounds fine. Water in the morning an inch of water once or twice a week depending on the weather. Be careful not to overwater.

• Julia Curry

  July 25th, 2007 at 6:46 am · Reply

  I PLANTED 2 LIME LIGHT HYDRANGEAS THIS YEAR. THEY GET FULL SUN. THEY STARTED OUT FINE, THEN THEY APPEAR TO HAVE THINNED-OUT, HAVE SOME LEAF DROP, BLOOMS ARE VERY SMALL. MY DAUGHERTER PLANTED HERS AT THE SAME TIME — THEY HAVE DOUBLED IN SIZE, BLOOMS ARE HUGE AND GORGEOUS. WHAT’S WRONG WITH MINE? ONE OTHER THING, I’VE NOTICE A WHITE MOTH-LIKE INSECT SO I’VE SPRAYED WITH INSECT. SOAP AND SEVIN. ALSO PLANTED IN THIS BED ARE MORNING GLORIES, MOON FLOWER, PHOLX, BLUE SAGE. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE MOST WELCOMED! THANKING YOU IN ADVANCE…

  Your hydrangeas don’t seem to like the location as much as your daughters plants. It can be a matter of soil drainage, how much sun and watering. Hydrangeas like sun in the AM, and in warmer climates may like 1/2 day of sun. The soil should be rich, well drained and kept moist. Another factor you may consider is that it is competing for nutrients and water with all the neighboring plants in the flower bed. Prune your plants in the winter and fertilize in spring after they have leafed out. It should give them a good start for the growing season. If they don’t improve consider moving them to a new location.

• Pam Kamath

  January 11th, 2008 at 12:24 pm · Reply

  My pink Hydrangia in a large container has fared very well the past 2 years. Now, in Dallas, its dormant and we are all ready for its showy early summer blooms. Can I break the root into 2 and repot the 2nd one? I really would love to see them in 2 separate pots.

  If you have a well established large plant, you can divide it while the plant is dormant or early spring. Be sure to tease out the roots and get 2 subtantial clumps of a rooting sytem. Uof GA.

• Linnea

  January 25th, 2008 at 6:01 pm · Reply

  I should have looked here first, however…we recently bought a home and with it, a whole back yard full of plants and trees I’ve never taken care of before. i was told to cut back my hydrangias all the way to about 8″. I do not know what kind they were but I think the flowers were purplish-blue and large. I live in Edmonds Washington(just north of Seattle), and I think I may have killed them. Is there a possibility they will grow back? They were beautiful late last summer when we bought the house. It is now Jan. Any hope?

  Hi Linnea
  Your hydrangeas will come back in the spring and put out new growth. The only question would be if they will bloom this year. If you have hydrangeas that bloom on old and new growth such as “Endless summer”, then you should get flowers. Those that bloom on old wood from the previous year’s growth such as Bigleaf hydrangeas will not bloom or have much fewer flowers this year. Time will tell. Fertilize the plants with a 10-10-10 in late winter to e. spring before growth starts. Spread the fertilizer at the base of the plant.

• Krystal

  March 20th, 2008 at 11:48 am · Reply

  I purchased two hydrangeas 4 days ago. The bigger one is lime green and the smaller is lilac/purple colored. Late at nite, they droop and start to look dead. But in the day time, the look well alive. However, when the lime green one blooms, its flowers start to look more white/pale lime green. What am i doing wrong? I live in a condo in Canada, and i am not sure of what is affecting it. I water them enough so that the soil is not dry, and they get indirect sunlight. How should i care for them best when i live in a condo, and how long will they last. Can someone please give me some advice?

  Hi Krystal
  It sounds like you have a greenhouse hydrangea. The lime green is the initial color and then it turns a cream color-most likely the variety since there are so many. See the article on Florist hydrangea which should give you information on care and watering problems

  。

• vicki

  March 26th, 2008 at 5:22 am · Reply

  We live outside of St Louis, I have a beautiful pink hydrangea and I don’t know what type of soil and drainage is needed to keep it healthy. Our yard is small but I do have full shade, part shade and full sun. From reading others notes, I understand it is probably best part sun. My biggest problem is water , our yard slopes toward the house. It stays wet for quit some time when we have even a little of rain. I would like it close to the house, but, it that is where the soil is very wet. After a rain it normally takes a few days for the soil to dry. Please help!

  You might want to consider building a raised bed toward the house. They are great for areas that have heavy clay or soil that drains poorly. Make it about 6 -8 inches high and fill it with well-drained organic soil with peat moss added which will provide good drainage and ideal root conditions. Replant your hydrangea in the raised bed and place a 2 inch layer of mulch on top. Ideal time is in early spring so you need to do it ASAP before it leafs out .

• rene williams

  May 7th, 2008 at 4:22 pm · Reply

  CAN I GROW MY FLORIST HYDRANGEA MACROPHYLIA OUTDOORS IF SO HOW AND WHERE

  Most H. macrophylla are hardy from zone 7a and up. You can plant it outdoors in sun to part shade. If it is not hardy in your area then you will have to grow it in a container and bring it in for the winter. For more info see florist hydrangea

• Gloria Jean

  May 20th, 2008 at 4:27 pm · Reply

  I live in Milwaukee WI, near Lake Michigan. I have Nikko and All Summer Beauty-Serrata. I was told NOT to prune last fall. Now, this spring, I have long “sticks” coming out of the ground, with green leaves starting to form at ground level. Is this normal. I was told to put rusty nails in the soil around the plants to keep the blooms blue… is this true or just a myth??

  What may have happened is that your hydrangea has some winter kill. The “sticks” were damaged by freezing temperatures and now its sending out new growth from the roots. If that is the case Nikkko blue will not bloom this season as it blooms on last seasons growth. Trim down any dead stems (be sure they are dead). All Summer Beauty should bloom this year even if damaged on any new growth. You may want to wrap or protect the Nikko blue next winter.
  Rusty nails is more of a myth-yes, you will get some minute amount of iron but that won’t affect the flower color and it’s not enough to green up the plant.

• Bob

  May 24th, 2008 at 8:50 am · Reply

  My hydrangia plant stems are curling and twisting at all angles. What could cause this?

  Have you or your neighbor sprayed with any herbicides lately? Are the leaves distorted?

• Laurie Adrian

  June 8th, 2008 at 8:31 am · Reply

  I dont have a comment, but rather a question. I have a blue endless summer plant . I transplanted it in a large pot that sets on a patio in front of the house. It gets mostly sun from about 8 to 3. I noticed that a few of the blooms have been getting black on them. What could be causing this?

  Hi Laurie
  Are the flowers getting wet either by rain or overhead spraying? Do you have any spots on the leaves? If so, you may have Botrytis on the flowers causing them to turn brown. It could also be environmental, such as too much sun, Endless summer hydrangea likes morning sun and afternoon shade (newly planted needs some protection until the roots are fully developed).

• Susan Piper

  June 12th, 2008 at 12:12 pm · Reply

  How can I remedy curling leaves (with spit underneath) without using pesticides? I have a Nikki Blue

  Try a strong spray of water or put on some gloves and remove it manually.

• debisweeney

  July 6th, 2008 at 11:09 am · Reply

  HAVE HYDRANGEAS THAT WERE HERE WHEN MOVED IN 4 YEARS AGO. HAD BLOOMED BIG BEAUTIFUL 1ST YR. NOW FLOWERS FORM, BUT ONLY A FEW BUDS OPEN LIKE A LACE CAP AND THEN ALL TURNS BROWN. THERE IS SOME LEAF SPOT LATER IN SEASON. WE ARE ZONE 5,HAVE SPRINKLER SYSTEM. PLANTS LOCATED NS SIDE SO GETS AM SUN AND EVENING.
  THINK A FUNGUS, MAYBE? THANKS

  It’s possible, that you have a watering problem. If the sprinklers are spraying the flowers it will invite fungal and bacterial pathogens that cause the flowers to turn brown, in addition the water on the leaves can also cause the leaf spot. Its best to water the hydrangea at the soil line.

• cpeyton

  July 6th, 2008 at 8:40 pm · Reply

  please tell me if you have to buy a yellow hydrangia or how to change a blue hydrangia to yellow

  I don’t know of any yellow hydrangea as of yet, although there may be a new cultivar down the road. The blue will not change to yellow.

• Susan Hope Engel

  July 13th, 2008 at 11:53 am · Reply

  We live in Evanston, Illinois, and have a huge Annabelle that is full and balanced at the beginning of the summer but separates after the first heavy rain. Do you recommend underplanting something around it to help keep the blooms upright? Thank you.

  HI Susan
  I don’t think an under planting will help support your plant. Your Annabelle hydrangea will just flop over it. You can try some supports like peony rings.
  Since it blooms on new wood so you can get more aggressive with pruning. Cut it back to 1/2 in early spring so when it sends out new growth it will develop stronger stems to support the flowers. If you cut it more (6″ stubs) then you may get too vigorous growth and big flowers that fall over in a heavy rain.

• marianne rendulic

  July 13th, 2008 at 5:34 pm · Reply

  I love the look of hydrangeas in the landscape. I have a space about 6′ x 5′ where I would love to see a hydrangea! It is light shade but gets wind in the winter, Zone 5. I would like to maintain a hydrangea of about 3-4 feet, if possible. This would be a specimen plant along a walkway. We also have a lot of deer in the area.
  Does anyone have suggestions for a good choice for this site, and will the deer eat the buds or new flowers?

• Barb

  July 15th, 2008 at 8:56 am · Reply

  Need planting advice for a shooting star hydrangia . When to plant, type of sun and soil, etc. It was a gift so I will need to plant it. I live in the Ozarks with plenty of sun and heat.

  Hi Barb
  Shooting Star Hydrangea belongs to H. macrophylla and is hardy in zones 7-9. Plant it in the fall (cooler weather) in semi shade(AM sun)well-drained rich soil. If you get an unusual freeze cover it to protect the flower buds. It blooms on old wood so care must to taken when pruning. Prune (deadhead) after bloom to maintain size and thin out old branches to reduce size when needed.

• tracey

  July 21st, 2008 at 7:18 am · Reply

  MY HUSBAND AND I BOUGHT A PINK DIAMOND HYDRANGEA TREE (PANICULATA)
  ABOUT 5 DAYS AGO. IT GET 2 HOURS OF SUN IN THE MORNING AND ABOUT 4 IN THE AFTERNOON. HE WATERS IT ONCE A DAY. HE PUTS THE HOSE BY THE ROOTS FOR ABOUT 15-20 MINUTES. ALL THE LEAVES ARE COMPLETELY BROWN AND CRISP AND DROOPING. IT LOOKS DEAD ALREADY. WHAT ARE WE DOING WRONG?
  HOW CAN WE SAVE IT?

  Hi Tracey
  You need to let the plant dry out between watering. Watering every day is too often and drowning the roots. Watering every 2-3 days depending on weather conditions would be sufficient. I don’t know if the plant will survive.

• peter davies

  July 23rd, 2008 at 1:48 am · Reply

  i havewhat looks like white cotten buds on the stems and underneath the leaves what are they and how do i treat it

  It sounds like mealy bugs .

• Pat

  July 24th, 2008 at 5:04 pm · Reply

  I live in western MI. I have just planted two Spreading Beauty Hydrangeas. They have flowered and the flowers are now spent. Do I prune them now or in the fall and how do I prune? Also what type of fertilizer do they need and how often?

  Hi Pat
  Spreading Beauty hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata) belongs to the H. macrophylla which blooms on last season’s growth. Because your hydrangea is newly planted cut just below the old flower stem to a pair of leaves. If you cut further down you will be removing some flower buds for next year’s bloom. In the spring you may need to cut away any winter damage. Fertilize in the early spring with a balanced fertilizer and a second light feeding right after bloom but not later than Aug 1. You don’t want to encourage new growth that may not harden before the cold weather.

• Bonnie Jo

  July 28th, 2008 at 9:31 pm · Reply

  Two Questions….. (1)I have had a hydrangia plant for the past 10 years but it has never bloomed. It’s very large. It gets some sun and shade throughout the day. In the late spring I have trimmed back, what looks like, dead stalks. (2) Just this year, however, I have noticed several new hydrangia plants scattered throughout my garden, some with pink blooms. How’d they get there?

  Hi Bonnie
  You may have a H. macrophylla that blooms on old wood(last year’s growth). It may not bloom for several reasons 1. too much shade 2. cold damage 3. pruning. Your hydrangea may be marginally hardy in your area in that the flower buds freeze in the winter or late frost in spring. If it is too large ,cut it back by 1/3 - 1/2 this fall and see what happens next season. You have nothing to loose. Protect it as you would a rose bush to keep the stems from freezing. For winter protection mulch it with pine bark, leaves. One elaborate way is to trim the foliage and tie the stalks together and then slip a plastic collar (made from a nursery pot) over the plant and fill it will mulch. Wrap the tied stems with landscape fabric. This will keep the crown and stems snug and cozy for the winter.
  You might have new plants from layering -a propagation method where part of the existing branch is covered by soil and eventually roots develop making a new plant. Another thing that might have happened is a neighboring hydrangea seeds and made their way to your garden. Are the new plants in more sun? If so there is a possibility that the large plant is in too much shade.

• Judy C.

  August 20th, 2008 at 10:58 am · Reply

  I have a blue endless summer hydrangea . It has been blue for the past two summers I have had it. This year we have had sooooo much rain (Southeastern Maine) and now the blooms have turned blue. I understand the ph soil thing and assume the heavy rain must have had some impact. My question is whether it is too late(Late August) to try/or too late to bother to change the blooms back by treating the soil. Should I just wait and see what happens next spring?

  Hi Judy
  I’m assuming you meant the blooms turned pink. Treating the soil this time of year(August) will not change the color of the blooms on your hydrangea but it can lower the ph which will help for next year. To change the color of bloom, start treating the soil on a regular schedule with aluminum sulfate in spring as soon as new growth starts and before flowers form. You may want to test the soil ph before starting treatment. If your plant is in a container, soil ph will be much easier to control. Conversely, if in the ground, your soil may be more alkaline and trying to maintain blue flowers can become an endless battle.

• Julie Hart

  August 20th, 2008 at 10:56 pm · Reply

  After I planted my hydrangea it wilted and the leaves on top of the stalk turned brown. I pruned them off, but they never got new leaves where the old ones were. The new leaves came lower and I have a bare stalk above. The flowers also had brown spots, Why is this?

  Hi Julie
  Your hydrangea, most likely, had some dieback from transplant shock when the stalks turned brown. The new leaves at the base are a good sign that the plant is growing and will survive. The brown spots on the blooms indicate a fungal blight disease that is spread by overhead watering and spraying. Mulch around the plant with 2″ of organic material to maintain even moisture.

• Julie Hart

  August 21st, 2008 at 10:25 am · Reply

  Thank You That helped me alot. Shall I cut the dead brown stalk off that I mentioned, down to the green leaves or should I just leave them. Should I cut the flowers off? Thank You

  Julie, I’m glad I could be of help.
  Yes, you can cut off the brown stalk up to the green part. Don’t cut off any green growth because you really don’t want to stimulate the plant to start new growth as it may not harden off before winter. If the flowers are unsightly cut them off otherwise you can leaves them. Cut the flower heads right underneath the base of the flower.

• Kay Schrope

  September 3rd, 2008 at 7:40 am · Reply

  I have a Blushing Bride hydrangea. It is planted by the house on the southwest corner. It gets some afternoon sun. The leaves have brown spots on them. What should I do? Thanks, KAY

  Hi Kay
  There are a few leaf spot diseases that attack hydrangea, one prevelant in mid-summer to fall is Cercrospora leaf spot. The circular brown/purple spots first appear on the lower leaves. The center of the spots turn tan/light gray and are surrounded by brown/purple halo. The spores are spread by splashing water and frequent rains. The disease starts at the bottom and works it way up. Since it is late in the growing season, fungicide treatment is not recommended. Make sure you remove all infected leaves after they drop as the disease can winter over on them. If the leaf spot shows up next year which is most likely, spray the plant with a fungicide as soon as you see it. Another leaf spot disease Anthractnose causes large dark brown irregular blotches that occur all over the leaves and flowers in hot, wet weather. The treatment would be the same. http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1212/

• Michelle Maurice

  September 7th, 2008 at 10:31 pm · Reply

  I just purchased a very nice hydrangia from a well known “place” (Not a big box store) in Fresno. It has lovely variegated leaves, sorry, don’t know what type it is. But, I kept it in it’s one gal pot for a few days, then planted it in the south west corner of my garden. It gets several hours of morning sun, then is shaded by a tree (pepper tree) & fence for the rest of the day. It looks all nice a perky in the am to early afternoon, and has since I planted it about a week ago, then starts the leaves start to droop. I’ve even noticed that some are getting crispy on the ends. I water it daily (about a gal or so) as it has been 95 to 101 here in Fresno. What an I doing wrong? and what can I do to make sure the plant doesn’t die? The would kill me because it’s my first hydrangea. Thanks for any help you can offer. Also, the place sold me some “Hydrangia Blue” which I have not applied, to keep the blooms (when & if it blooms) blue. Does this stuff work? Thanks again!

  Hi Michelle
  Part of the problem is that your hydrangea is still in transplant shock and the hot weather doesn’t help. As long as you are keeping it moist -not too wet, it should slowly develop new roots and adjust to the new environment. The soil should be well-drained (not clay). Mulch around the plant with 2″ of organic material (wood chips, straw etc.) to keep the roots evenly moist. Once the weather cool down then it should perk up.
  Hydrangea Blue-I’m not familiar with it. Most likely, its aluminum sulfate used to acidify the soil.

• Gordon Wright

  September 23rd, 2008 at 9:59 am · Reply

  My mother has 3 hydrangias in Ottawa On so our weather gets quite cold. They have large cream colored blooms. Last winter the flowers were attacked by local rabbits over the winter, then 2 bloomed 1 did not. Can we cut off the dead blooms to keep the rabbits away. if so how much can we cut back. Thanks

  Hi Gordon
  I’m not sure what type of hydrangea you have. My guess is that its a H. paniculata (PeeGee) or H. arborescens (Annabelle).
  Both bloom on new wood, therefore you can cut the old stems to the ground or 6″ above the soil line, in LATE winter and still have flowers. Fertilize in the spring when new growth appears.

• Julie E. Hart

  October 2nd, 2008 at 10:09 am · Reply

  Winter protection Nikko blue hydrangea
  Should I wrap my Niko Blue in Burlap or Plastic to survive a Northern Montana Winter or should I just leave it uncovered?

  Hi Julie
  Nikko blue is listed as hardy zone 6-9 but can be grown in zone 5 with winter protection. It is marginal in your area so you need to protect it from the winter. In November after a hard freeze, tie the stems together with twine, then slip a plastic rose collar over the plant and fill it with pine mulch, leaves or straw to cover the crown. For larger plant make a collar from a small garbage can(open top). Wrap mesh hardware cloth around the cone or can to keep it in place. Another way is to wrap it with hardware cloth or chicken wire and fill it with pine bark and then wrap the outside with permeable landscape cloth or burlap. The insulation should be able to “breathe” and maintain an even temperature. If a plant is wrapped in plastic it can get too hot in the winter sun and then freeze when night temperatures drop.

• Meagen

  November 19th, 2008 at 3:45 pm · Reply

  I have 2 Endless Summer Hydrangeas that I planted in Spring and they did great. We have had several freezes and now my leaves are wilted and falling off and my blooms are brown. Is that the end of my plants or is this common for Winter. Is there something that I can do to protect them?

  Hi Meagen
  They are done for the year. See Endless summer hydrangea for winter protection info.

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