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Hydrangia护理

我有非常大的健康Hydrangia树叶,但没有花。为什么呢??

首先,你必须确定是什么样的绣球你。 对开花失败的常见原因有:

1。 太多的阴影 ,都生长在局部阴影,但过多会影响开花。
2。 如果您在凉爽的气候生活,花芽冬季有可能损坏 只有顺利(每小时藜)和穗(每小时檀)绣球花盛开在新的木材,大叶绣球(每小时桃花心木)盛开的老木,主要这意味着,他们必须在一年内设置的芽,然后通过使冬季开花明年。 另外一些品种的大叶新的经济增长还盛开。
3。 修剪-是知道的时间。 明智的修剪是重要的。 过多的修剪将今后几年宽松的味蕾。 如果你修剪,以减少高度,这样做的权利开花后。 如果你修剪掉工厂薄,削减一些最古老的地下茎,以在早春(休眠季节)的水平。 大多数绣球花生长良好,没有根本修剪。

绣球

当是最好的时机削减绣球?

的最佳时机修剪是早春开花后立即。 它有助于了解什么样的绣球你必须知道多少修剪。
H.arborescens华新木,这样你可以节省下来的1 /以上,在冬季或初春地面2大小或6“。 没有修剪会给你不小的蓬勃发展和鲜花。
每小时檀 -木立为每小时相同。
大叶大叶绣球每小时在旧木(除了无尽的夏季 ,竹篙Mac和所有夏季美容)开花不修剪,只用花删除。 切右下面的花头。 任何其他修剪会减少下赛季的花卉生产。 你越减越少花你会得到。
每小时栎 ,Oakleaf八仙花盛开旧木材为每小时修剪大叶相同。 早春修剪的形状或薄的费用花植物。

有一种伟大的收集绣球这里购买:

没有相关的职位。

65评论Hydrangia护理

  • 匿名

    我怎么知道什么样的我有一种绣球,以及如何知道什么时候修剪如果不开花?

    有许多品种和品种的绣球,但它们都基本上分为4类。

    1。 平滑绣球 (绣球驼绒藜)是hardy中区4-9。 这原生灌木得到3-4英尺高,有一个圆形的形式传播。 叶片大,圆形,深绿色。 花朵是奶油色的圆形集群。 '安娜贝勒'和'大花'很受欢迎的品种。 它在新的木材盛开所以如果你削减老茎在晚冬地面您仍然有花的新赛季。

    2。 穗绣球 (八仙檀)是hardy中区3-8。 这是所有绣球花最耐用。 这种多源于灌木增长10-20英尺高(一些品种更小)。 树叶是椭圆形,深绿色和深叶脉。 它锥形组别中的小型和大型混合象牙白色的花,粉红的变化与年龄的铜牌。 有些品种有'大花'或PeeGee,'Tardiva',布鲁塞尔花边'和'粉红钻石'。 它还盛开在新的木材。

    3。 大叶绣球 (每小时艽)是hardy中区6-9。 它有一个土墩,广泛的传播形式,增长下午3-6英尺高。 叶深绿色,大椭圆形。 它以其茂密的花朵来,在全球任何形形式或lacecap花朵。 在“拖把头”形状的巨大圆形盛开的鲜花组成的艳丽,而lacecap小组与在中心的小星形花朵单位艳丽的花朵。 品种之间的一些'日光蓝',永远粉红'和'炙热的灰烬'。 这些旧木材(去年的增长盛开),使修剪后的高度开花 如果你在早春修剪你将失去一些花。 有一个新品种无尽的夏日('Bailmer'),将盛开在新老木,并hardy中划出4。 如果你修剪这在错误的时间仍会盛开在明年1。

    4。Oakleaf绣球 (每小时栎)hardy中区5-9。 部份效果多形式的增长源于6-8英尺高。 容易辨认,其oakleaf形floliage及鲜花长锥形集群。 旧木蓬勃发展,使开花后修剪的权利。

    5。 攀岩绣球,

  • 贝蒂

    我有一个东京喜悦hydrangrea。 你们知道什么“类型”,这是为了让我能确定如何最好地修剪?
    谢谢。

    东京喜悦是八仙花,大叶绣球品种。 旧木赤潮,使开花后修剪的权利。 花开月7日至8月 虽然在第5区5-9哈迪是“还不确定”,并可能死于严寒返回今后几年花摧毁。

  • 匿名

    叶子卷曲并变成黑色或深色的边缘。

    布朗清晰边缘表明盐烧(太多肥料)干旱应激,或土壤板结。

  • 维多利亚詹德

    绣球:他们是否有毒 我想种在花园里的一些老年痴呆症病人访问。 有时他们“吃的雏菊。”

    是的,根据美国陆军卫生中心,花蕾是最毒的。 后injestion症状:氰化物中毒,腹痛,呕吐,和嗜睡。

  • 井田沃森

    绣球花的颜色变化

    我刚刚买了粉红色的绣球 什么样(数字即10-10-10 肥料 )应我用来保持粉红色。

    这取决于土壤类型有。 有些地方自然碱性(粉红色),而有些人则较为酸性。 如果颜色开始变化,那么改变土壤的pH值和加入石灰保持粉红色 对于一般施肥,迈克尔Dirr,建议使用4盎司 在10-10-10早春叶出现前scathered向外围绕种植基地。 他还建议Osmocote或Nutricote。

    我的隔壁邻居紫色绣球花 ,我医学蓝...我们交换和紫色变成蓝色,当我在我家种...我怎样才能紫色回来。 唐娜皮维

    颜色取决于你的土壤pH值的水平。 显然,你在你的土壤pH值降低导致鲜花,而不是变成紫色蓝色。 如果通过增加石灰(甜您的土壤的pH值),您的鲜花会变成紫色。

    2007年2月9日
    Tawnie(mccrarytawnie@comcast.net /)
    我买了绿色, 粉红色和紫色的植物 。第二年他们都开蓝色。 我怎样才能把他们回到他们原来的颜色?

    您所在地区的土壤必须具有较低的pH值在自然盛开的绣球花蓝。 您可以检查土壤的pH值测试。 为了提高pH值为6.0-6.2(这是粉红色最佳),你需要添加白云质石灰几次一年甜头的土壤。 使用肥料,磷高(中#)和无铝。 铝很容易就由该工厂在低pH值产生蓝色土壤;而较高的pH值降低铝的吸收造成粉红色花朵。 要么你接受蓝色的自然增长的习惯,尝试改变pH值,或在容器中生长的植物如颜色会更容易控制。

    我有一个紫色的工厂 ,变成了蓝色。我 repotted一个更大的容器及现在的green.My最喜欢的是紫色/帮助!

    当您重新种植土壤的pH值是不同的 ,改变了颜色。 添加硫酸铝的土壤。 您需要做每一个月,将采取任何改变的时候显示。 最好的时间做这种事情是当工厂刚开始形成花朵在春天。 机会是您将看不到太大的变化,今年。 但是要记住,您需要做的项目,明年维持蓝色/紫色。需要更多的蓝色比紫色酸性,因此您必须监控您的应用程序。

  • 丹Trivino

    这是6月4日在新泽西州,是不是确定移植的绣球

    最好的时机移植绣球是早春萌芽前或在秋季时,植物处于休眠状态。 其他任何时候你可以把冲击工厂,它可能无法生存。 当你和婴儿移植灌溉等新的种植植物。 当挖你的绣球尝试尽可能多根,根最少的干扰get来更好的结果。

  • 澳索利斯

    肥料烧伤
    我厂的罚款,直到数天前,当我喂酸肥料。 现在,叶子正在转向边缘和冰壶褐色。 它是在局部阴影和阳光。 发生了什么事?

    这听起来像过多或过高浓度肥料和化肥厂正在经历烧伤。太多的施肥浇水是不是在生产和集中解决方案,很难让植物吸收的水。 该工厂是不能使用所有的肥料。 水工厂彻底稀释和溶解肥料的任何访问,让水的流失。 这样做几次。

  • 基基克雷默

    绣球切断开花时,花是花,当是最好这样做,当花盛开完全或更早? 在哪个点上干你切割出花盛开? 谢谢您

    八仙和H.锯缘青蟹,旧木开花。 在气候温暖的花后修剪的权利,在寒冷的气候让整个冬季的鲜花,以保护下岁。 芽和修剪在春季。 缩减至芽的脂肪对健康(最多12英寸)。 绣球花的盛开在新的木材,可修剪后立即开花。

  • 埃德温娜诺里斯

    我怎样对待我的绣球叶黑点

    叶斑水时发生的开销 叶片和湿度的水,帮助带出真菌引起叶斑病。这是难看,但不会伤害植物。 一旦真菌存在,没有什么可以做它。 你可以喷在春天,作为一种预防性措施,杀菌剂或更改您的日常水浇灌土壤,避免叶片水。

  • 凯蒂

    绣球花的颜色变化

    朋友说我的丑老太婆(品种不详)紫红绣球将绿色/白色,如果我用在土壤添加水平咖啡渣,会不会酸有蓝花的影响力呢? 谢谢。

    只有八仙花 ,如日光蓝,玛蒂尔德Gutges和无尽的夏季品种有能力变成蓝色。 随着年龄的花的颜色会变成绿色,并最终石灰干燥的米色(浅棕色)的颜色。 通过降低pH值咖啡渣,粉红色可能变成白/绿取决于品种。 试试吧,看看会发生什么。

  • 戴安娜鲍威尔

    移植休克
    萎蔫Hydrangia。 锅和植物是不会受到炎热的太阳。 是从地面移植手术,但现在在一个容器。 叶片继续衰退下去,即使浇水。

    Tranplanting将冲击的根源,包括整厂。 没有足够的根部,以支持的叶子。 保存在阴影,保护区的植物复苏,直到它。 请注意,不要因为这水上将邀请根腐病问题,底水(水,让植物多达45分钟的立场。他们漏)。

  • 海伦山多尔

    2008年1月汉弗莱(hgunner24 @ wmconnect
    我已开始从剪报5 日光蓝绣球,他们在4“盆了。 我如何采取冬季照顾呢?他们

    如果你住在北半球气候,不要让新工厂冻结的第一个冬天。 他们需要babied。 没有足够的生存发展基层冻结。 最好保持在一个保护区度过冬季。

  • 德布约翰逊

    什么是一年中最好的时机植物绣球

    最佳时间是在春季霜冻后的危险已经结束,或在今年秋季之前,夜间温度可以降到32度。 植物45-60天前的第一项预期冻结。 当在秋季种植,适用于1 / 4的力量化肥,以帮助基层建立和水。

  • 澳大利亚教育网

    浇水绣球我在亚利桑那州菲尼克斯现场。 我应该在哪里我的粉红色植物绣球。 会否采取完整的孙整个夏天,或者我应该工厂,公司在局部阴影?
    多少和我应该多久水。
    由于气温在凤凰城取得如此炎热,我想这个厂的太阳/局部阴影(上午和下午的太阳阴影)。 水根据工厂的需要。 如果您有热,刮风天增加你浇水。 一般的经验规则是每星期1英寸深浸泡不洒开销。

  • 辛迪

    我买了,种下了可怜的安娜贝勒hydrangia(大叶)今天- 10月! 我应该在这一点上添加肥料或等到斯平? 同时,因为它在一个可悲的状态,我应该包括在今年冬天?

    获得在地上,不施肥,你不希望任何新的经济增长上面。 地膜得好过冬。 这hardy中区4-9是一个严峻的绣球,关于新的木材盛开,因此,你可以减少旧茎的地面在晚冬,仍然有花。 在春季施肥时,会出现新的增长。

  • 桑迪菲茨休

    我有一个“八仙”hydrangia,我在外面有一个 我如何照顾它在俄亥俄州的冬天? 我的理解是一种毒药,我有一个让我即将把它里面的狗有关。 无论如何,以节省放在棚加以保护它呢?

    是的,你可以保持它在车库或地区处于休眠状态下也不会冻结。 包装容器的保温,以防止冻结的根源。

  • keeli罗巴克

    绣球花的颜色变化

    我买了绣球2年前,当我第一次买了,这是一个美丽的丁香和紫色种植后,在它的一个大型锅,自己在明年夏天它已变成一个肮脏的粉红色 令我感到很缺乏吸引力...我如何得到它回到它的颜色? 和什么样的土壤如何使用?

    在切实维护紫色诀窍是土壤中加入硫酸铝 如果您有碱性土壤您需要添加硫酸铝,保持较低的pH值,获得“蓝”色。 在本赛季初开始的植物开始生长,还需要一段时间改。 继续增加整个生长季节每月硫酸基地,保持颜色。

    米歇尔韦克斯勒(mhwexler@earthlink.net /)
    可以大叶植物粉红色改为蓝色的 矿植物洞非常好,他们非常好去处过滤太阳的下午,今天上午的阴影。 我768,16开花删除他们年老时,转而采用绿颜色?

    这取决于如果你有一个每小时艽和正确的品种,如“日光蓝”,“Ebziandom或”玛蒂尔德Gutges。“他们最好的回应,然后颜色的范围可以从薰衣草的紫蓝色。 为了得到它把蓝色你都必须把与在春季硫酸 ,并继续每月维持酸性土壤要求。 有人喜欢保存泛滥和干燥,或你可以降息完成后,开花。 大叶旧木材盛开,所以不要削减太多,因为会影响明年的开花。

    我应该怎样使用化学改变我从粉红色到蓝色的绣球

    它不是简单的土壤中加入一种化学品。 需要改变颜色的两个重要因素是1。 低(大约5)2土壤pH值。 硫酸铝或硫磺会增加酸度,改变颜色为蓝色。 在土壤酸性条件有可能转化铝化合物,使植物可以吸收它。 颜色改变,只会发生在Hydrangia艽(大叶),其色素。 阿白绣球花将永远不会花蓝无论土壤pH值。

  • 维维恩

    余recentely购买6绣球。 我离开的花盆他们数天,一切正常。 一个星期前,我种的地区,在阴凉处,是他们,直到晚上太阳。 现在,所有的花朵下垂到地面,所有卷曲起来,叶片下垂,其中一些边缘脆。 我做了什么错? 他们获得了在我们的院子里洒水系统浇水。 我已经做了大量的研究hyrdrangeas前我种了他们,cannot想象问题是什么。 你能帮助! 请!
    维维安,注德州

    您的绣球是移植震惊和需要时间来恢复。 至于浇水,洒水是不是最好的方式用水。 它可能导致更多的问题,尝试在软管滴灌等土壤一级水。 阿一般性建议的天气和气温而定,是水英寸/每星期两次,直到工厂成立。

  • 克里斯蒂娜安杰耶夫斯基

    我住在东北(马萨诸塞州)。 去年夏天,我种了每小时 大叶 我没有在冬季修剪的植物。 现在是春天(我没有修剪)和绣球看来已经死亡。 在结束这些“死”分行泪滴的形状和干燥。 难道这些新的芽? 也有在绿叶植物基地。 是否为时已晚修剪? 我很困惑。

    第一年是最关键的越冬绣球。 如果两端是黑暗和干燥有可能是一些冬季损害将影响今年的鲜花。 如果您有“无尽的夏天”绣球花,那么你仍然可以得到一些花。 该工厂还活着,因为它发出了从根部新的增长。 修剪的分支到健康的干部分损坏的部分。 明年秋季保护包装在一个塑料的衣领类似玫瑰锥分支的绣球。

  • 阿曼达斯奈德

    我有一个HOBELLA&HOMIGO绣球 你能告诉我什么类型,我尽量与他们盛开在dealling旧的或新的木材。 此外,什么是Hydranga之间的一个小叶子或与大叶,什么性质的差异,是否有一个区别? 任何信息,您可以给我非常感谢亿美元。 阿曼达号

    Hobella是lacecap软粉红色Homigo是一个拖把头粉红,蓝色都是从下八仙的万花筒culitvars销售的Hovaria系列。 他们盛开旧木材。

  • 珍妮

    我能做些什么对我的绣球花白色白粉病 是否危险的灌木丛? 是什么原因呢? 我住在南深。

    白粉病是由当天的温度温暖,夜晚凉爽,高湿度,也植物在空气流通,少树荫增长。 绣球似乎容易被利用。 有些品种更耐比别人好。 除了是unsigthly,它ususally不会损害植物。 对于一些补救措施检查的白粉病的文章。

  • 保罗

    我没有绿色的拇指,但我的工厂现在都非常好。 我想sepecific在修剪他们的详细资料。 我hydrangias的盛开所有的时间。
    他们目前“满载花朵”,但我不知道多远的花,没有切断。 花的花了一些,现在,我想他们修剪。
    我也很试图找出如果我需要修剪的绿叶的。
    谢谢。 保罗

    如果你只是微调死人花,切略低于花到下一组芽他们。 我不会修剪在这时候离开。 不知道到底是哪绣球你在早春芽毕竟回报最好修剪它,这样您就可以清楚知道存活过冬。 如果你有一个绣球驼绒藜和石竹 (安娜贝勒&佩厄吉斯)于新的经济增长,可以减少他们回到二分之一增长。 这将形成植物和鼓励,花很多新的增长点。

  • 时间戳普拉特

    灰霉病的花蕾我有一个问题...。为什么我的绣球植物表格芽,然后把布朗和永不布卢姆?

    在您的绣球花花蕾可能感染了葡萄,一种真菌疾病也灰霉病众所周知的。 它攻击所有的植物部分,是雨成果,站在水,在32-84摄氏度之间的架空浇水或露水。 尽量避免任何淡化的开销通常是罪魁祸首。 你可以用杀菌剂处理前开花,以减少感染。 灰霉病将在冬季对土壤和植物碎片,因此一定要拆除和销毁病株部分。

  • 2008年1月麦吉

    我自己种之外,与3岁2 Hydrangias。 树叶是小,秸秆是又高又瘦, 花卉是非常大的 ,而且对于秸秆沉重 我住在密苏里州东南部。 有没有方法可以让我修剪他们,使他们充分和强大?

    重修剪将有助于使你的绣球紧凑, 修剪将取决于你的绣球。 如果你有一个“安娜贝勒”绣球,于新的经济增长可以修剪下来到6英寸,会回来,明年全面开花结实。 有时大雨或在草坪肥料,土壤的养分会导致高茎快速增长,但不足以在华举行,尝试开设了一个牡丹箍或股份,他们补回来。

  • 吉姆纳普

    冬季保护绣球
    我有3个绣球 ,所有三个死亡返回地面今年秋天。 一个没有同去年。 它在地面一个小芽,我调养回18“今年。 什么是导致他们死亡的地面?

    这可能是多种绣球。 有些人比其他人强壮,如果你有一个是稍微hardy中,也许是每小时艽,那么它会死于严寒回来。 幸运的是,根没有死,这就是为什么他们发出了春天的新的增长。 尝试覆盖和保护你会玫瑰灌木保持从冻结造成的。 冬季覆盖保护它与松树树皮,树叶。 其中一个方法是精心修剪的花朵和树叶和领带的秸秆在一起,然后错过了一个塑料环(由一个托儿所锅)接管该工厂并填写它将覆盖。 包裹捆绑茎与景观结构。 这将保持冠茎温暖的,惬意过冬

  • 桑德拉

    冻害
    我种了大约一个星期前,昨晚我们已经低于32度一临时工,现在又枯萎,甚至可能有点褐色他们会否被确定,其中我hydrangia植物 5?

    即使工厂hardy中,新兴的微妙的增长并不如增长hardy中成熟发展。 有没有什么可以做的霜冻的伤害。 根据损害程度,植物可能会或可能无法恢复。 等等看,如果不枯萎树枝修剪收回他们,你应该得到一些新的增长点。 如果另一个霜冻即将覆盖植物保护新的增长。 根据不同类型的绣球花,你可能已经失去了本赛季的花朵。

  • dcBird

    我有一个oakleaf绣球 (去年获得)和正在做漂亮。 已经增长了近4英尺。 我该怎么施肥的,当它。 我还种植了13无尽的夏季绣球广告他们做得都很出色。 什么是当时的施肥时。 谢谢。

    施肥早春绣球作为新的增长与10-10-10颗粒分散在工厂的基地和外向型和6周出现。 后来在开花后,鼓励健康的成长。 按照制造商的应用程序的建议。 不要施肥后8月1日。

  • 唐娜

    我刚刚买了(大叶的 )2是白人和其他2 红着脸新娘 4是蓝色的。 虽然我没有得到我的第一个享受只开花但事情是享受我的叶子,而我为我的新生婴儿等待开花。 任何关于它我是和whats安全作为农药把我的工厂的想法的? 我住在吉尔福德县东南的北卡罗莱纳州的部分如果有帮助的... ..

    一般来说,绣球没有什么昆虫问题,但是我敢肯定你的事发现植物开胃足够的食物。 有些昆虫可以攻击你的工厂为玫瑰金龟子,四成荫的植物错误(造成轮叶褐色斑点),horntail。 检查您的工厂紧密合作,看看是否有任何昆虫(有些在夜间显示出来)。 我建议你把损坏的叶子你购买的地方,或向当地推广办事处ID的问题。 反过来,他们可以给你一个杀虫剂的建议。

  • 戴卡尔

    我住在东田纳西。 我种了粉红色hydrangia几年前。 叶子每年回来,但我从来没有能看到鲜花,因为鹿吃。 有什么我能保持鹿了?

    你可以喷洒驱蚊剂,如液体护栏鹿的植物(一难闻)。 应使用驱蚊剂在本赛季初鹿之前获得的植物的味道,他们需要重新申请后雨。 您的其他选择是七英尺围栏。 制作您自己的鹿剂配方

  • 莱斯利

    非常感谢! 多少的光线hydrangias确定? 天井得到一些早晨的太阳。 此外,他们应该如何往往被冲淡?

    绣球喜欢早晨的太阳(分3小时直接阳光。)和下午的阴影。 在凉爽的气候会容忍在炎热气候条件下,反而将更多的太阳容忍更多的阴影。 天井听起来不错。 水早上一英寸的水一次或两次,一周天气而定。 小心不要水上。

  • 帕姆卡马斯

    我的粉红色Hydrangia在一个大的容器表现非常好,过去2年。 现在,在达拉斯,其休眠,我们都为它的花朵艳丽的初夏完成。 我可以分解成2根和repot第二呢? 我真的很想看到他们两个独立的花盆。

    如果你有一个完善的大型工厂,你可以划分它,而植物处于休眠状态或初春。 一定要梳理出的根源,并获得2 1生根sytem subtantial团块。 遵从UOF遗传。

  • 林尼奎

    我应该在这里第一次看,但是...我们最近买了一个家,有了它,整个后院的植物和我从来没有照顾树前充分。 我被告知我hydrangias削减一直到约8“。 我不知道他们是什么样,但我认为紫色的花朵,蓝色和大。 我住在埃德蒙兹华盛顿(西雅图以北),我想我可能将他们杀害。 有一种可能性是,他们能重新长出来? 他们是在去年夏天,美丽的时候,我们买房子。 现在是一月任何希望吗?

    您好林尼奎
    您的绣球会回来的春天,提出了新的增长。 唯一的问题是,如果他们将在今年开花。 如果您有绣球花的盛开旧和新的增长,如“无尽的夏天”,那么你应该得到的花朵。 这些从上年的绣球,如大叶旧木材生长开花不开花或花少得多今年。 时间会证明一切。 施肥,植物在冬末至E的10-10-10 春季开始前的增长。 蔓延的植物群的肥料。

  • 维基

    我们生活之外的圣路易斯,我有一个美丽的粉红色绣球花,我不知道什么类型的土壤和排水的需要保持健康。 我们的院子虽小,但我有充分的阴影,阴影部分和充分的阳光。 从阅读别人注意到,据我所知,这可能是最好的部分太阳。 我最大的问题是水 ,朝房子的院子斜坡。 它保持湿了退出一段时间,我们有一点点雨。 我想它接近房子,但是,它是这里的土壤很潮湿。 大雨过后,通常需时数天土壤干燥。 请帮助!

    你也许要考虑建立一个对房子提出的床 他们是伟大的地方,有重粘土或土壤,排水不良。 使约6 -8英寸高填充以及它排水与泥炭说这将提供良好的排水条件和理想的根有机土壤。 补种的绣球,在床上提出的在上面2英寸的覆盖层。 理想的时间,所以你需要这样的信杰之前,叶子在早春。

  • 勒内威廉斯

    我可以增加我的鲜花店绣球MACROPHYLIA户外或如何和其

    大叶大部分都是hardy中每小时从区7A及了。 植物可以在户外,在太阳阴影部分。 如果不是hardy中在您的区域,那么你将不得不在容器中成长,并带来了冬天英寸 欲了解更多信息见花店绣球

  • 凯莱让

    我住在威斯康星州密尔沃基,密歇根湖附近。 我有日光和所有夏季美容,锯缘青蟹。 我被告知不要修剪去年秋天。 现在,这个春天,我一直在“大棒”来从地下开采出来,并开始在地面形成绿色的树叶。 这是正常的。 有人告诉我把周围土壤中的植物生锈的钉子保持花朵的蓝色...这是真的还是只是一个神话??

    发生了什么,可能是你的绣球有一些冬季杀死。 在“大棒”被损坏的严寒,现在它的派出从根部新的增长。 如果是这样的话Nikkko蓝色不会开花,因为本赛季的最后季节生长开花。 减磅任何枯枝(确保他们都死了)。 整个夏天美容应该盛开,今年即使在任何新的经济增长受损。 您可能需要包装或保护蓝色日光下一个冬天。
    生锈的钉子更多的是一个神话,是的,你会得到一些微量的铁,但不会影响花的颜色,它是不够的了植物的绿色。

  • 鲍勃

    我hydrangia植物茎冰壶和扭曲的所有角度。 还有什么原因呢?

    你或你的邻居有任何除草剂喷洒最近? 叶片是扭曲?

  • 劳里阿德里安

    余dont有评论,而是一个问题。 我有一个蓝色的无休止的夏季植物 本人移植在一个大的锅,设置一名在屋前庭院。 这其中大部分来自约8至3太阳。 我注意到一个花朵数也开始在他们的黑色。 可能会造成什么呢?

    您好劳里
    花是被雨水淋湿或架空喷涂吧? 你有叶片的点呢? 如果是这样,您可能对它们造成花卉灰霉病转褐色。 它也可以是环境,如过多的阳光, 无尽的夏天绣球喜欢上午和下午的太阳阴影(新种植的需要一些,直到充分发展的根源是保护)。

  • debisweeney

    有绣球时候,这里时,4年前提出。 民政事务总署开大美女一路里亚尔。 现在花卉的形式,但只有少数芽一样打开阿花边第然后所有变成褐色。 有几个季节叶斑病后。 我们是5区,有喷水灭火系统。 植物位于纳秒让双方声带孙上午和晚上。
    认为一个菌,也许? 致谢

    这是可能的,你有一个浇水的问题。 如果喷头喷洒花将邀请真菌和细菌病原体引起的鲜花变成褐色,加之叶片的水也可能导致叶斑病。 最好的水在土壤线的绣球。

  • 苏珊希望恩格尔

    我们生活在埃文斯顿,伊利诺伊州,并拥有庞大的安娜贝勒是充分,在今年夏天开始平衡,但在第一次分离大雨。 Do you recommend underplanting something around it to help keep the blooms upright? 谢谢您。

    HI Susan
    I don't think an under planting will help support your plant. Your Annabelle hydrangea will just flop over it. You can try some supports like peony rings.
    Since it blooms on new wood so you can get more aggressive with pruning. Cut it back to 1/2 in early spring so when it sends out new growth it will develop stronger stems to support the flowers. If you cut it more (6″ stubs) then you may get too vigorous growth and big flowers that fall over in a heavy rain.

  • tracey

    MY HUSBAND AND I BOUGHT A PINK DIAMOND HYDRANGEA TREE (PANICULATA)
    ABOUT 5 DAYS AGO. IT GET 2 HOURS OF SUN IN THE MORNING AND ABOUT 4 IN THE AFTERNOON. HE WATERS IT ONCE A DAY. HE PUTS THE HOSE BY THE ROOTS FOR ABOUT 15-20 MINUTES. ALL THE LEAVES ARE COMPLETELY BROWN AND CRISP AND DROOPING. IT LOOKS DEAD ALREADY. WHAT ARE WE DOING WRONG?
    HOW CAN WE SAVE IT?

    Hi Tracey
    You need to let the plant dry out between watering. Watering every day is too often and drowning the roots. Watering every 2-3 days depending on weather conditions would be sufficient. I don't know if the plant will survive.

  • peter davies

    i havewhat looks like white cotten buds on the stems and underneath the leaves what are they and how do i treat it

    It sounds like mealy bugs .

  • 帕特

    I live in western MI. I have just planted two Spreading Beauty Hydrangeas. They have flowered and the flowers are now spent. Do I prune them now or in the fall and how do I prune? Also what type of fertilizer do they need and how often?

    八喜
    Spreading Beauty hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata) belongs to the H. macrophylla which blooms on last season's growth. Because your hydrangea is newly planted cut just below the old flower stem to a pair of leaves. If you cut further down you will be removing some flower buds for next year's bloom. In the spring you may need to cut away any winter damage. Fertilize in the early spring with a balanced fertilizer and a second light feeding right after bloom but not later than Aug 1. You don't want to encourage new growth that may not harden before the cold weather.

  • Bonnie Jo

    Two Questions….. (1)I have had a hydrangia plant for the past 10 years but it has never bloomed. It's very large. It gets some sun and shade throughout the day. In the late spring I have trimmed back, what looks like, dead stalks. (2) Just this year, however, I have noticed several new hydrangia plants scattered throughout my garden, some with pink blooms. How'd they get there?

    Hi Bonnie
    You may have a H. macrophylla that blooms on old wood(last year's growth). It may not bloom for several reasons 1. too much shade 2. cold damage 3. pruning. Your hydrangea may be marginally hardy in your area in that the flower buds freeze in the winter or late frost in spring. If it is too large ,cut it back by 1/3 – 1/2 this fall and see what happens next season. You have nothing to loose. Protect it as you would a rose bush to keep the stems from freezing. For winter protection mulch it with pine bark, leaves. One elaborate way is to trim the foliage and tie the stalks together and then slip a plastic collar (made from a nursery pot) over the plant and fill it will mulch. Wrap the tied stems with landscape fabric. This will keep the crown and stems snug and cozy for the winter.
    You might have new plants from layering -a propagation method where part of the existing branch is covered by soil and eventually roots develop making a new plant. Another thing that might have happened is a neighboring hydrangea seeds and made their way to your garden. Are the new plants in more sun? If so there is a possibility that the large plant is in too much shade.

  • Judy C.

    I have a blue endless summer hydrangea . It has been blue for the past two summers I have had it. This year we have had sooooo much rain (Southeastern Maine) and now the blooms have turned blue. I understand the ph soil thing and assume the heavy rain must have had some impact. My question is whether it is too late(Late August) to try/or too late to bother to change the blooms back by treating the soil. Should I just wait and see what happens next spring?

    Hi Judy
    I'm assuming you meant the blooms turned pink. Treating the soil this time of year(August) will not change the color of the blooms on your hydrangea but it can lower the ph which will help for next year. To change the color of bloom, start treating the soil on a regular schedule with aluminum sulfate in spring as soon as new growth starts and before flowers form. You may want to test the soil ph before starting treatment. If your plant is in a container, soil ph will be much easier to control. Conversely, if in the ground, your soil may be more alkaline and trying to maintain blue flowers can become an endless battle.

  • Julie Hart

    Transplant shock
    After I planted my hydrangea it wilted and the leaves on top of the stalk turned brown. I pruned them off, but they never got new leaves where the old ones were. The new leaves came lower and I have a bare stalk above. The flowers also had brown spots, Why is this?

    Hi Julie
    Your hydrangea, most likely, had some dieback from transplant shock when the stalks turned brown. The new leaves at the base are a good sign that the plant is growing and will survive. The brown spots on the blooms indicate a fungal blight disease that is spread by overhead watering and spraying. Mulch around the plant with 2″ of organic material to maintain even moisture.

  • Julie Hart

    Thank You That helped me alot. Shall I cut the dead brown stalk off that I mentioned, down to the green leaves or should I just leave them. Should I cut the flowers off? 谢谢您

    Julie, I'm glad I could be of help.
    Yes, you can cut off the brown stalk up to the green part. Don't cut off any green growth because you really don't want to stimulate the plant to start new growth as it may not harden off before winter. If the flowers are unsightly cut them off otherwise you can leaves them. Cut the flower heads right underneath the base of the flower.

  • Kay Schrope

    Leaf spots
    I have a Blushing Bride hydrangea. It is planted by the house on the southwest corner. It gets some afternoon sun. The leaves have brown spots on them. 我应该怎么办? Thanks, KAY

    Hi Kay
    There are a few leaf spot diseases that attack hydrangea, one prevelant in mid-summer to fall is Cercrospora leaf spot. The circular brown/purple spots first appear on the lower leaves. The center of the spots turn tan/light gray and are surrounded by brown/purple halo. The spores are spread by splashing water and frequent rains. The disease starts at the bottom and works it way up. Since it is late in the growing season, fungicide treatment is not recommended. Make sure you remove all infected leaves after they drop as the disease can winter over on them. If the leaf spot shows up next year which is most likely, spray the plant with a fungicide as soon as you see it. Another leaf spot disease Anthractnose causes large dark brown irregular blotches that occur all over the leaves and flowers in hot, wet weather. The treatment would be the same. http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1212/

  • Michelle Maurice

    I just purchased a very nice hydrangia from a well known “place” (Not a big box store) in Fresno. It has lovely variegated leaves, sorry, don't know what type it is. But, I kept it in it's one gal pot for a few days, then planted it in the south west corner of my garden. It gets several hours of morning sun, then is shaded by a tree (pepper tree) & fence for the rest of the day. It looks all nice a perky in the am to early afternoon, and has since I planted it about a week ago, then starts the leaves start to droop. I've even noticed that some are getting crispy on the ends. I water it daily (about a gal or so) as it has been 95 to 101 here in Fresno. What an I doing wrong? and what can I do to make sure the plant doesn't die? The would kill me because it's my first hydrangea. Thanks for any help you can offer. Also, the place sold me some “Hydrangia Blue” which I have not applied, to keep the blooms (when & if it blooms) blue. Does this stuff work? 再次感谢!

    Hi Michelle
    Part of the problem is that your hydrangea is still in transplant shock and the hot weather doesn't help. As long as you are keeping it moist -not too wet, it should slowly develop new roots and adjust to the new environment. The soil should be well-drained (not clay). Mulch around the plant with 2″ of organic material (wood chips, straw etc.) to keep the roots evenly moist. Once the weather cool down then it should perk up.
    Hydrangea Blue-I'm not familiar with it. Most likely, its aluminum sulfate used to acidify the soil.

  • Gordon Wright

    My mother has 3 hydrangias in Ottawa On so our weather gets quite cold. They have large cream colored blooms. Last winter the flowers were attacked by local rabbits over the winter, then 2 bloomed 1 did not. Can we cut off the dead blooms to keep the rabbits away. if so how much can we cut back. 谢谢

    Hi Gordon
    I'm not sure what type of hydrangea you have. My guess is that its a H. paniculata (PeeGee) or H. arborescens (Annabelle).
    Both bloom on new wood, therefore you can cut the old stems to the ground or 6″ above the soil line, in LATE winter and still have flowers. Fertilize in the spring when new growth appears.

  • Julie E. Hart

    Winter protection Nikko blue hydrangea
    Should I wrap my Niko Blue in Burlap or Plastic to survive a Northern Montana Winter or should I just leave it uncovered?

    Hi Julie
    Nikko blue is listed as hardy zone 6-9 but can be grown in zone 5 with winter protection. It is marginal in your area so you need to protect it from the winter. In November after a hard freeze, tie the stems together with twine, then slip a plastic rose collar over the plant and fill it with pine mulch, leaves or straw to cover the crown. For larger plant make a collar from a small garbage can(open top). Wrap mesh hardware cloth around the cone or can to keep it in place. Another way is to wrap it with hardware cloth or chicken wire and fill it with pine bark and then wrap the outside with permeable landscape cloth or burlap. The insulation should be able to “breathe” and maintain an even temperature. If a plant is wrapped in plastic it can get too hot in the winter sun and then freeze when night temperatures drop.

  • Brooke

    I live in the Philadelphia suburbs and I purchased 4 blue hydrageas and planted then in the beginning of April. Unfortunately there were 2 nights that the temperatures went to 32 or slightly below and the petals turned brown around the edges. I pruned them back, but I want to know if they will survive and rebloom this year or if I am out of luck and need to start over.

    Hi Brooke
    Your hydrangea will survive but I'm not sure of the flowers. You may get less flowers, depending on how badly the flower buds were damaged and hydrangea cultivar. Endless summer hydrangea will rebloom on this year's growth, so there should be no problems with blooms.

  • corinne

    Dry hydrangea flowers
    For cut flowers for the table.I bought some hydranga flowers and they went droppy. Is there anything I can do to bring them back. Also from my garden when I cut some from my hydranga bust, what can I do to keep them looking full and nice. One more question; and if I want to dry them, what is the best thing to do.
    Thanks Corinne

    Cut flowers early in the day. Try recutting them when they are drooping. For drying hydrangea , timing is important. Softly squeeze the flower and feel for a slight papery resistance, check all florets then cut and place in a vase and let dry. Another method is to cut the flowers place in a vase full of water and let the flower absorb the water and then allow it to dry. Hydrangea flower heads can be preserved in cat litter. It's cheaper than using silica gel.

  • 鲍勃

    do hydrangia’s grow in south texas…zone 9b…we're in Brownsville, Tx

    HI Bob
    Most hydrangea are listed as heat tolerant to zone 9 except for H. paniculata (zone 8). Plant in a shady spot so that they can tolerate the summer heat.

  • Maureen

    I am in zone 4 and have a PeeGee Pinky Winky (tree not shrub) hydrangea planted last spring (2008). It was glorious all last summer, but now it is the last week in May and still no leaf buds. Is it still viable?
    谢谢!

    Hi Maureen
    It should have started to leaf out by now. They are hardy to zone 3 -7. It may not have survived the winter. Scratch the stem and see if there is any green (life) to it. If not, some nurseries have a warranty and may replace it for you.

  • 海蒂

    I live in southern Indiana and am just starting to garden – learning still. Is it possile to divide an Annabelle hydrangea?

    Hi Heidi
    I haven't tried it, but hear it is possible provided the root ball is large enough to divide. Best time to do this is in late winter/early spring when it is dormant.

  • Maureen

    I have changed by dead pinky winky with a paniculata Grandiflora (tree type). Two items appear in the messages above about other types of hydrangeas : using 10-10-10 fertilizer and not fertilizing after August 1st. Does this apply to this type of hydrangea too?
    谢谢

    You can use a special formulated fertilizer for hydrangea 10-10-10 is a general fertilizer that works for most plants. Fertilizing and pruning applies to all hydrangea. You don't want t encourage new growth after Aug. because the new growth may not have enough time to harden before cold weather sets in.

  • i bought 3 macrophylla hydrangea and just found out they are poisoneous. i have a dog, what parts of the plant are poisoneous. can i contain them in pots and prune them yearly thereby protecting my dog?

    Hi Eve
    Yes, according to the US Army center for Health, the flower buds are the most poisonous. Symptoms after injestion: cyanide poisoning, abdominal pain, vomiting, & lethargy.

  • terry

    I have had a hydrangea for about 5 years. Each year the buds come out, but only a few flowers on each bud actually appears. 我能做些什么? I don't prune them at all. They are mainly in sun, but they do have some shade. 请帮助!

    您好特里
    What kind of hydrangea do you have? Do you fertilize your plant?

  • 里克

    We have a pink diamond hydrangea. It is a tree type hydrangea. How do we train a new center leader to get the tree to grow taller. We appreciate any insight you offer.
    谢谢您,
    里克

    Hi Rick
    I am assuming that your Pink Diamond hydrangea is already in a rounded tree form at this time. Do you want to keep it that shape or do you want a more triangular form? Once the hydrangea stops blooming, it will continue to grow making it larger overall. Or are you starting with a shrub and trying to make it a tree?

  • Rick

    We want to make it a tree. Trying to figure out how to do so.. :-)

    HI Rick
    What you need to do is pick out one straight dominant stem and remove all others. This will focus all energy on the main stem. As the stem grows and gets taller, remove any side shoots or growth that may show up on the stem but leave the top growth. This process takes a few years. It's just like making a topiary.

  • Jerry King

    Transplanting hydrangea
    live in NE Tennessee and have a large 3 year old mop head hydrangea that I would like to transplant. When is the right time to transplant and should it be pruned back or try and transplant it in its current size?

    Hi Jerry
    Best time to transplant Hydrangea is early spring before it buds or in the fall when the plant is dormant. Any other time you can put the plant in shock and it may have a difficult time recovering. When you do transplant irrigate and baby the plant like a new planting. When digging up your hydrangea try to get as much of the rootball as possible. Unless you prune or trim your mophead hydrangea right after bloom, you may be cutting off next years flowers.

  • 温迪

    I live in Ontario and have the most amazing pink hydrangea plant that has produced beautiful large pink blooms for the past 3 years. I pruned the plant back in the fall after the flowers had died off, as I have done in previous years, but this year there are no signs of any blooms, just large healthy leaves. What has gone wrong? and can the problem be corrected for next years blooming.

    您好温迪
    Your hydrangea could had winter damage -where the buds were frozen. Perhaps you pruned them too much and at the wrong time? Other factors are too much fertilizer or increased shade can also cause your hydrangea to stop blooming.

  • Cannot change color
    I have white hydrangeas that have turned green. (I don't know the variety of hydrangea) What can I do to maintain the white or change the color to blue or pink?
    Also the head of the flowers are so large the stems are having trouble supporting the weight. Can you suggest a method to
    make the stems stronger?
    谢谢您。


    I'm guessing that you have a Annabelle hydrangea. They produce rounded flower heads and have a tendency to flop over. When Annabelle hydrangea flowers mature, they turn a green color and if you leave them on longer they will dry and turn a tan color. Next year they will again bloom white flowers.
    H.arborescens”Annabelle” blooms on new wood, so you can cut it down to 1/2 size or 6″ above the ground in the winter or early spring. This will help produce stockier stems and more flowers. No pruning will give you less vigorous growth and smaller flowers.
    You cannot change the color to pink or blue on this variety.

  • 约翰

    Hi: I have bought two Panicle Hydrangias. Two questions.
    1) What kind of fertilizer should I use when I plant them?
    2) Any other special planting info you may have would be appreciated.
    We live in Eastern Ontario Canada.
    谢谢

    Hi John
    1。 The only fertilizer you can apply after mid-August is a root starter to stimulate new root growth before winter. If you promote new leaf growth, it may not harden off before winter. Otherwise, fertilize your hydrangea with a 10-10-10 in late winter to e. spring before growth starts. Spread the fertilizer at the base of the plant.
    2。 For planting ideas see the article on Endless summer hydrangea.

  • I have a large white lacey hydrangia;the leaves or turning brown on the edges. There are some stalks that are dying. We have had a very hot dry summer in Texas. I have not fertilized in a couple of months. What should I do about this.

    Hi Marvin
    Mostly likely the brown edges were caused by drought stress. Salt burn and soil compaction can also cause the same symptoms.

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