Amaryllis

76 Comments

1. Daphne - April 21, 2005 at 9:56 am

   Amaryllis seeds
   I have an amaryllis that is at least 15 years old. It has sprouted additional bulbs along the way. It used to bloom twice a year for the first five years. Now is blooms like clockwork the end of February and continues until the end of April. It’s magnificent. I find this indoor potted plant to be very low maintenance. I live in Canada so sun can be low in the winter. It doesn’t seem to matter.
   I do have a question. For the first time ever a few of the stems have grown what look to be seed pods. These are green and balloon like just at the base of the where the blossom connects. Do you know what they are and what I can do with them? Thank you, Daphne

   They are seed pods, let them ripen (turn yellow/ brown and split open) and then you can plant them. Seed pods mature 4-5 weeks after the flower has been pollinated.

   I have a amaryllis.A red one it is done flowering and is growing seed pods can you grow another one from the seeds or should I just wait for a new little bulb to grow? Will letting the seed pods to grow ruin the mother plant? Janet

   Seed production will take some energy away from the mother plant but will not ruin it. Amaryllis grown from seed take 3+ years to flower. The bulbils(offsets) will take 2-3 years to produce a flower. Best time to remove bulbils (if any) is after a 4 month cool dry period(after dormancy). They should be 1/4 to 1/3 size of the mother bulb. At this time, be sure to rebuild the bulb by allowing the foliage to grow and start fertilizing w/a balanced fertilizer once a month.

   I separated the seeds from the dried pods and put them in the refrigerator. When is a good time to plant them in the greenhouse and is it worth the effort? Dennis B.

   Plant the seed immediately after the pods split open, especially in the greenhouse. Barely cover the seed with light seed starter soil, keep moist and in partial shade until they germinate, then gradually move the container to full sun. Feed seedlings with 1/2 strength fertilizer every 2 weeks during the growing season. It takes 3 years or more before you will see a flower and plants may not be the same as the parent plant.

   source:http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu

   Reply
2. danielle - April 27, 2005 at 4:33 pm

   Grow Amaryllis in water
   I would very much like to grow one in water-a large vase-would just the roots go into water-and not the bulb itself? right? would I change the water or just add?

   Hi Danielle
   You can add rocks to the container to keep the base of the bulb just above the water allowing the roots to travel into the water. This will also add support to the bulb. If the bulb is doing well you don’t need to change the water just add more when needed. If there is an unpleasant odor or dead roots then you should change the water.

   Reply
3. Fay Mills - July 8, 2005 at 5:32 am

   Amaryllis outdoors
   It is great to have a place to ask questions! I have 10 bulbs that I planted after the frost in the ground, full sun, they are growing long beautiful green leaves, but it is July now and no flowers. I live in North Florida. We have had a lot of rain, could this affect the blooming? Do I just need to wait till next year to see the flowers? My first for growing this plant.

   The rain can have something to do with flowering(rot the bulb) as well as other factors such as too much Nitrogen in the fertilizer which will give you all leaves and no flowers. Bulbs need some phosphorus and more potassium for blooming. Was it planted too deep? A third of the bulb should be exposed. Another question is how were they grown before you got them. Were they properly conditioned to bloom? At any rate, let your amaryllis grow and allow the leaves to yellow and die back so that they can replenish the energy needed for next season’s bloom. In the winter when dormant, they will need little water and should bloom in April.

   Reply
4. umi - December 1, 2005 at 8:26 am

   Dividing amaryllis
   hello all,
   i have double amaryllis varieties. about 14 of them
   can any one tell me how to propogate them, as they don’t produce any seeds

   Amaryllis can be propagated from off-sets- the little bulbils which develop from the mother bulb. They should be 1/4 to 1/3 the size of the mother plant before they are separated and will bloom in 2-3 years. A good time to separate amaryllis is after the 4 month dormant period before replanting.

   Reply
5. Ashley - January 12, 2006 at 5:21 pm

   My mom removed the skin around the bulb. Will it survive?

   The skin is a protective layer on the bulb, its better to leave it on but it should be fine as long as the bulb is firm with no soft spots and a creamy color.

   Reply
6. Gail - February 1, 2006 at 12:44 pm

   How tall does the Amaryllis usually get before it blooms? Mine is 38 inches tall and no blooms yet.

   Some varieties of Amaryllis have taller stalks than others. Usually the flower stalk comes out first, you may not get a flower this time just the strap like leaves.

   Reply
7. Barbara Cooley - March 15, 2006 at 8:49 am

   Not blooming
   My mom gave me an amaryllis plant in January and here it is March and I haven’t seen any blooms? At first I was watering once a week and after that starting watering more often. How can I get mine to bloom or produce flowers?

   Is there any green coming out of the bulb? If you are getting some leaves then at least it’s growing. It is possible that you will not get a flower this time. The flower is predetermined inside the bulb from last year’s growth. If the bulb was not conditioned & cared for properly there might not be a flower.

   Reply
8. Bill Gafford - March 26, 2006 at 3:34 pm

   Flower color change
   We have a number of amaryllis in our yard in Houston that used to have red blooms, but have been mostly white for a couple of years. What has caused this? What can I do to get the red back?

   Some factors that can affect a color change is air temperature, moisture condition and fertility. Another factor is dominant genes. As the bulb get older, the gene that produced the color gets weaker and reverts to the more dominant gene. Is it possible that you also had some white amaryllis growing? If so, the white color may be more dominant and have taken over the red. Sometimes Mother Nature does what she wants.

   Reply
9. dianne - September 30, 2007 at 11:33 pm

   Grow amaryllis from seed
   I have just read on your site the way to grow amaryllis from seed. Unfortunately I just planted them straight into a pot instead of soaking or removing seeds with tweezers and allowing to germinate in water then plant.
   Will my seeds germinate if left with black exterior sheath on them?
   Can anyone advise please

   Other than the water germination method Amaryllis seeds can also be planted soil. Use a light potting soil mix (pro mix, jiffy mix), fill pot 3/4 full, sprinkly seeds on surface and cover with 1/8″ of fine soil. Water and keep moist and warm but not too wet and under 75F. Cover the pot with plastic wrap or place in a plastic bag. The seeds need light to germinate so keep it under a cool light or in indirect sun. If all goes well, germination should occur within a month and you should see tiny leaves emerge. Transplant seedlings into individual pot when leaves are 4″ tall and have pea sized bulbs.
   Removing the black sheath should not affect the germination process. Hope this helps Kris

   Reply
10. Lori Armbruster - November 18, 2007 at 7:38 pm

    I have had several bulbs in my yard for more years than I can remember. I thought the blooming would slow down as an indication that I should seperate them, but they just keep flowering. I’m not complaining, but the bulbs are coming out of the ground. I finally seperated them, but I’m not sure if I am supposed to replant the biggest, smallest or medium sized ones. From what I’ve read on your site, I think the little ones won’t bloom for two to three years. If I plant the biggest ones will they continue to bloom as previously? Should I plant a mixture of large and small?

    I think you almost answered your own question. The biggest ones should continue to bloom as well as the medium sized bulbs as long as they have had good growing conditions during the year. The small ones may or may not produce a flower but with each year of growth will get larger and start blooming within two-three years. You can mix the bulbs or start new groupings with medium bulbs and another with small bulbs-this way you can observe their progress.

    Reply
11. David - November 26, 2007 at 12:24 pm

    Thanks for all the above information.
    Does anyone have any idea about the pH (soil acidity) that amaryllis prefers? And, how can you tell which fertilizers have this pH?
    Thanks.

    Amaryllis prefers a soil ph ranging from 5.5-6.0. It grows well in any garden soil as long as it drains well. Most fertilizers will not change the ph except the ones formulated for acidic plants such as Miracid. Fertilize with a balanced house plant fertilizer twice a month after flowering and when leaves are growing.

    Reply
12. Erica - February 3, 2008 at 7:30 pm

    How long does a cut amaryllis stem last?

    An amaryllis as a cut flower generally has a vase life of 7-10 days. Cut the flower when the first buds are starting to open.

    Reply
13. Ray - August 9, 2008 at 10:28 am

    This is an amazing site, which I return to repeatedly for all and any plant advice- thanks for the insights!
    I have 2 Amaryllis bulbs, both bought as bulbs-in-a-box. After the 1st blooms, I cut the flower stems down, continued to water till end-summer, then allowed to dry out, stored the bulbs in the fridge (without any apples!) Having replanted them end-feb in pots, they’ve both grown 4-5 healthy leaves, but no blooms. I continue to water them when the top is dry. My quesn is will they flower eventually if I keep up with the watering? Do they need feeding right now while the leaves are green? Or should I go through the whole cycle again and hope for the best??
    Thanks.

    Hi Ray
    It sounds like your’e doing everthing right. Keep up with the watering and in late summer/early fall let it die down and reduce watering . Don’t fertilize now. You can fertilize when the flower stalk start to develop. Don’t store the bulb in the frig-store it in an area around 50F. for 8-10 weeks. Repot the bulb in fresh soil when you’re ready to get it started again. I should rebloom. Amaryllis can fail to bloom if the soil has too much N fertilizer which will produce more leaves at the expense of flowers. Also,the bulb will not bloom if it is stored near any ethylene gas exposure, .

    Reply
14. Carrie - September 22, 2008 at 2:02 am

    Grow Amaryllis in water
    I just bought an Amaryllis last Friday, and it’s in a glass vase with stones. It is sprouting like crazy right now, with many leaves coming up, as well as two buds. I did read the question and response to a previous post, regarding the care and instructions while in water, and I understand that. However my question is can I keep it in water for as long as I own it, or do I need to repot it in regular potting soil after it comes out of it’s first dormancy period, or when do I need to if at all? I’m concerned that the plant may not get all of the nutrients it might need in water versus what it would get planted in soil, but I’m hopeful. 🙂 I love the way it looks in the glass, it’s a real eye catcher, but if the plant won’t survive, then so be it. Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. And I agree with many of the other people that visit that this is an awesome site, and it’s extremely informative as well! I’ve added it to my favorites, and I plan to frequent it from now on whenever I have any questions. Bravo! 🙂

    Hi Carrie
    Thank you the kind words. I’m glad we can help.
    You can grow your amaryllis in water but once it is finished blooming you should plant the bulb in soil to help replenish the nutrients the bulb used up. Bulbs forced in water generally, do not preform as well as those grown in soil and are either planted in soil in hopes that they rebuild enough to bloom again or are discarded.

    Reply
15. Janet - October 29, 2008 at 5:01 pm

    Can you force Papilio Improved to bloom at a certain time of the year and if so, how? How large do the bulbs need to be to bloom?

    Hi Janet
    Papilio Improved is a hybrid of H. papilio which produces multiple flower stalks with slender, spidery flowers that last longer than regular amaryllis flowers. This exotic amaryllis can be grown the same way as any other amaryllis bulb. The bulbs sold are usually around 23-24cm size for bloom.

    Reply
16. Deborah - November 4, 2008 at 7:58 am

    I live in North Central Florida. Around 3 years ago I was given some Amaryllis bulbs. These bulbs all bloomed the first year. Less bloomed last year and I had no blooms this year. I have read through the comments on this subject and I am wondering if my problem is that the bulbs are planted too deep. With the mulch added the entire bulb is buried. Do I need to dig up my bulbs and replant them leaving part of the bulb exposed? If I do need to do this when is a good time?

    HI Deborah
    If your Amaryllis bulbs are not growing at this time, dig them up and replant them higher about 1″ above the soil. You might also work in some bulb food into the soil. They may be crowded and need more space or will compete for nutrients. After blooming, do you let the leaves continue to grow throughout the season or do you cut them back? It is important to let the leaves die back naturally as that replenishes the bulb and forms next years flowers. Amaryllis also need some sun (partial shade) to grow well?

    Reply
17. Jim - November 16, 2008 at 7:41 pm

    I’ve grown numerous amaryllis plants from seeds (hand pollinated) and now some of the mature plants have a grub (pupa/larva) in the bulbs. All plants are in containers or pots. The grub is about 1/8 inch thick and ¼ inch long and tunnels into the lower area leaving a reddish lining to its burrow in the bulbs. The infected plants gradually weaken and have to be removed and destroyed.
    Based on this information can you determine what the pest might be and offer suggestions about how it can be prevented or controlled?

    Hi Jim
    Its possible that you have a Narcissus bulb fly that is infesting your Amaryllis bulbs. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NarcissusBulbFly

    Reply
18. kasman - November 22, 2008 at 11:41 am

    What’s the differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum.thanks
    kasman

    Amarylildaceae is the family and Hippeastrum is the genus . Amaryllis is the common name under hippeastrum from which all cultivars are bred.
    “The Honorable Reverend William Herbert, a British scientist, a leading authority on the amaryllis of his era, segregated some amaryllis into a new genus, which he called Hippeastrum, publishing the name change in his book Amaryllidaceae in 1837. Today Hippeastrum (hip-ee-ay-strum) remains the correct genus name for cultivated amaryllis hybrids.”

    Excerpt from AMARYLlIS by Starr Ockenga.

    Reply
19. Kate - November 30, 2008 at 12:05 pm

    Bloom time
    How long does the average Amaryllis bloom? I have one called Apple Blossom, do you have any idea how long it will flower?

    Hi Kate
    The duration of bloom depends on the size of the bulb and growing conditons, temperature and amount of light the plant gets . On average, the flowering period can last about a month. A larger bulb can produce more than one stalk therefore bloom even longer. To prolong bloom time, remove the anthers from the flowers, keep the plant at 55-65F at night and away from direct sun. Remove any spent flowers to discourage seed formation that will deplete the plant of energy.

    Reply
20. Suzie - December 10, 2008 at 1:12 am

    Floppy leaves

    The leaves on my Amaryllis are about a foot long but are obviously starting to fall over, should i put a stake in to keep them upright, this is an indoor plant and my first one. Any help appreciated

    Hi Suzie
    You can stake or tie your Amaryllis leaves together to keep them from falling over, just make sure you don’t injure the leaves or just leave them. The newer leaves should be more upright. Be sure your plant is in bright light-not enough sun can also produce floppy leaves. If you don’t see a flower stalk by now, then there’s a good chance that it will not produce one.

    Reply
21. Sam - December 14, 2008 at 10:18 pm

    Poisonous bulb
    Hello i was reading about the middle if the amaryllis being poisonous.
    Are they that way with people and or other pets??
    Or is it only if they eat it???

    Hi Sam
    The bulb is poisonous only if you eat it.

    Are amaryllis plants toxic to cats? My daughter would love to grow them (indoors – we live in zone 4), but if a cat takes a nibble…? Thank you.

    HI Steph
    Amaryllis are listed as being poisonous to cats. It is the bulb part which contains a toxin called Lycorine that is poisonous.

    Reply
22. Janet - January 10, 2009 at 3:12 pm

    I have several Amaryllis in my home greenhouse. The leaves are getting very dusty. What is the best way to clean them? Thanks

    Hi Janet
    The easiest and best way is to take a damp paper towel or soft cloth and wipe the dust off the surface of the leaves.

    Reply
23. Ray - January 19, 2009 at 8:41 am

    I bought 2 Amaryllis bulbs from Walmart & potted them about 3wks ago. Both bulbs had already begun sprouting when I took them out of their box- now 3wks later, the sprouts have dried & fallen! The bulbs still look healthy enough, but there seems to be nothing happening with either. Were they duds?? They are in a warm spot with window light & I’ve only watered when the top is dry. Is there anything I should be doing to get them growing again? Thanks!

    HI Ray
    I’m afraid the bulbs are done flowering. Never buy sprouted bulbs-they will turn into duds. The problem was that the bulbs were kept in warm temperatures and were ready to grow BUT did not have any roots developed to support the new growth. Eventhough it began to sprout, it used up all its stored energy to do so. Keep it in the soil and it may still send out some leaves once it establishes some roots. Then you will have to grow it all season just to rebuild the bulb for next year. see info on reblooming amaryllis If not toss it.

    Reply
24. ayesha - January 29, 2009 at 8:35 am

    hi there,
    ive just bought my very first amaryllis. it goes by the name of white peacock. ive potted it and watered it. somewhere on the internet i read that to force the bulb to start off with a bloom instead of leaves, one should water it only when its potted and them once a month. this makes the bulb force out a flower instead of leaves. is this true?

    Hi Ayesha
    I have not heard of that watering method. It’s possible. The flower inside the bulb is predetermined by last year’s growth and how the bulb was stored. If it did not replenish enough nutrients back into the bulb, then it won’t have enough energy to bloom.

    Reply
25. julie - March 29, 2009 at 7:32 am

    CHIPPING AMARYLLIS
    There was some information in the garden section of our newspaper regarding dividing amaryllis bulbs. Newspaper has long been disposed. Do I cut them thru the center? if so when and how do you suggest I do so

    Hi Julie
    You can remove the offsets (small bulbs) from the parent bulb. I think you are referring to a method called chipping; this is done when the bulb is dormant. Clean the bulb and remove the papery outer skin. With a sharp clean knife trim back the roots being careful not to cut into the basal plate and cut back the growing tip. With the basal plate upright, cut the bulb into 8-16 sections (chips) making sure each chip has a part of the basal plate attached. Soak the chips in fungicide solution for 15 min. and then drain and dry for 12 hrs. Place in a plastic bag or container filled with moistened vermiculite, inflate bag and seal. Store at 68F (20C) for 12 weeks. Bulblets should form from the base plate between the scales. The chips can then be potted (basal plate down) into individual pots with the bulblet covered with 1/2″ of soil and chips exposed. They will eventually die off. Grow in protected area. Plants should flower in 3 years. Source: Plant Progagation, Alan Toogood

    Reply
26. Mary Macomber - May 17, 2009 at 10:38 am

    Divide amaryllis
    HI!
    I live in South Florida, zone 10, and have been growing amaryllis in the ground for years–I adore them!!! I noticed that my plants look to have seed pods developing this year–I read the piece above which referred to “the water germination method”. Can you explain how I would do that, please?

    Also my bulbs are getting awfully crowded and in need of being pulled up and separated–what is the best time to do that here in the south? They are still blooming now in mid-May–unbelievable–I’ve had blooms for the last three months by the dozens–prolific!!! And all colors and mixes! I just love them! And when I do dig them up, can I just go ahead and replant right away?
    Your help will be greatly appreciated!
    Thanks much!
    Mary in South Florida (Amaryllis has my name in it!)

    Hi Mary
    For the water germination method http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hippeastrum
    To dig up and divide your amaryllis wait until the fall when the leaves start to yellow and die back and then replant them right away. Cut/break offsets that are at least 1/4 to 1/3 the size of the mother bulb.

    Reply
27. Janet - September 4, 2009 at 8:06 pm

    I live in NC Zone 7 and I have had my potted amaryllis outside all summer. Usually I take the bulbs out of the pots, clean all the soil off them and let them dry and then chill them for 8 weeks in the refrigerator. This year I want to try just bring the pots inside and letting the amaryllis go dormant in the pots for 8 weeks. What type product should I spray the container soil and bulbs with to get rid of any insects that might be in the soil or on the bulbs (slugs, aphids, gnats…)? Thanks

    Hi Janet
    You can use a soil drench made with insecticidal soap to kill off any insects. Follow label directions for chemical use. Or try to flush insects out by soaking the soil with water

    Reply
28. Glenn - September 5, 2009 at 6:47 am

    Mealy bugs
    Last winter I had trouble with mealy bugs on my amaryllis is my heated hobby greenhouse. I left about 100 amaryllis (mid size bullets, about 40 different named amaryllis) in the greenhouse all summer long watering them occasionally. I know sometimes during the day the temperature got over 100 degrees and I still have mealy bugs on over half of the amaryllis. I cut the leaves down to just an inch long and sprayed with alcohol/water several times and still I have mealy bugs. Any suggestions on how to get rid of them.

    Hi Glenn
    See the comment at http://hortchat.com/info/mealy-bugs#comments to Pam 8/26/06 for alternative suggestions.

    Reply
29. barb - September 23, 2009 at 12:03 am

    love the info im finding here. have question on hippeastrum. i have many different kinds, i even had them grouped together in the same pots. some of them the leaves died on their own and some i cut while still green 🙁 (im new to these flowers and learning what NOT to do) i repotted the most of them into seperate pots, 3 of them woke up right away but im left with about 8 of them that are doing nothing. the bulb is firm and the neck of the bulb is green. will they wake on their own? am i just being impatient?

    Hi Barb
    Be patient.. The bulbs need a resting period about 8-10 weeks and will eventually start to grow on their own. See above article on Reblooming amaryllis. I’m just putting my bulb to “bed” for a resting period and will bring out the pot in Nov/Dec for winter bloom.

    Reply
30. Elena - September 25, 2009 at 11:34 am

    Hi! I bought the amaryllis bulb a year ago, put it in the pot and it started to grow well, but it didn’t give any flowers. for the whole year it was growing only leaves. I tried to water it less and to let it go dormant but it didn’t work. My husband told me to cut all the leaves off which i did (and i think it was the wrong thing to do), and now i have noticed the tops of the cut leaves started to rot. Can you give me any advice on what to do now? and is there any hope the bulb will survive at all?
    Thanks for your help.

    Hi Elena
    Sometimes you have to force them to dormancy. Stop watering completely so that everything dries out. Then store your bulb in a cool, dark spot for 8-10 weeks.

    Reply
31. Laura - November 2, 2009 at 12:52 pm

    Amaryllis flower bloom time
    How long does an Amaryllis bloom last indoors?
    (I.e., if I am trying to time its blooming for the holidays, should I err on the earlier side of the range of time within which it can be expected to bloom, because the blooms will last awhile, or is it important to get very close to the time you want the flowers to be open, because they only last, say, a few days?)
    Laura

    Hi Laura
    Successive blooms can last up to 2 weeks. Not all buds open at the same time. Duration depends on temperature and how much light the plant is exposed to. Once the buds are open keep the plant in a cool room (55-65F) and away from direct sun. Each bloom can last up to 5 days. To further prolong blooming, remove the yellow anthers (pollen) when the buds begins to open. Remove or cut off each flower when it starts to wilt.

    Reply
32. maria - December 28, 2009 at 2:40 pm

    I just got two Amaryllis. The bulbs came in a glass container with black rocks. The instruction say to add 1 1/4 water. I just noticed the bulbs have no roots and they had a little mold where the roots had been cut off. The bulbs are large and look other wise healthy with sprouts about 5 inches long. I want to save the bulbs if possible. Should I plant them in soil? Any ideas you can give me? or is there no hope?
    Thanks for your input!
    Maria.

    Hi Maria
    Wipe off the mold on the bulb. You can grow your amaryllis bulbs in water. The rocks provide a place for the roots to grow into. The bulbs have a preformed plant inside that will continue to grow once it receives light, moisture and warm temperatures. If you plan on saving the bulb for next year, you will eventually need to plant it in soil so that it can continue to grow and get nutrients after it is done blooming.

    Reply
33. Bridget - January 11, 2010 at 5:42 pm

    Slow to start
    Hello,
    Every year we purchase an amaryllis, and have had great luck. This year I bought one at a major retailer. It’s been planted for a week and a half, and has done absolutely nothing. Can anyone give me some hints on how to get it going, or is this one a dud? I have never had this happen before, and don’t know what to do differently. Thanks!

    Hi Bridget
    Sometimes the bulb may take a little longer to get started. Put it in a warm spot in the house (top of frig) and make sure the soil is moist. If the bulb was healthy, then it should start to grow.

    Reply
34. Julianne - January 31, 2010 at 5:29 pm

    When I set my bulbs to sleep this year I didn’t realize how rootbound they bad become. Now that I have them out of the container to repot I don’t know if I should trim some of those roots or leave them. It took forever for the leaves to die back in the fall and I had to force the issue by withholding water, then finally cutting back the leaves. They were vigorous and produced beautiful greenery after a good bloom in the late spring. Now what? I don’t remember ever having roots like this before, round and round the inside of the pot and out the drainage holes. Any advice will be dutifully followed. Thanks

    Hi Julianne
    I had that same problem last year. I pulled off or trimmed some of the roots about 1/2 and then repotted the bulb in a slightly larger pot with fresh soil. The amaryllis grew beautifully and produced 2 flower stalks.

    Reply
35. DJ - February 16, 2010 at 1:23 pm

    No flower stalk
    I started growing my first amaryllis from a kit about 2 months ago. I has healthy looking 24-30″ leaves, but no sign of a flower stalk. Maybe it is planted too deep. Now what should I do?

    Hi Dj
    You should have some sign of a flower stalk by now. Sometimes they are duds. The flower is predetermined in the bulb in the previous season, before it goes dormant. So if the bulb was not cared for or stored properly there might not be a flower. The same thing happened to me, I planted a newly bought bulb and all I have is leaves and no flower. The best thing you can do is to let the leaves continue to grow. Put the pot outside during the summer until the fall and then bring it indoors before the frost. By then the leaves will have died back and you’ll have a bulb to store for a few months. See Reblooming amaryllis in above article

    .

    Reply
36. Donna Mehta - February 23, 2010 at 7:27 pm

    Amaryllis slow to grow
    Hi. I purchased an Amaryllis bulb kit for my parents for Christmas. Unfortunately, due to circumstance we were unable to plant the three bulbs untI il late Jan. At this time (Feb.23) only one bulb has grown substantial leaves without blooms. Should I remove the two bulbs that seem to be dormant? Thanks

    Hi Donna
    I would leave the bulbs and see what happens. Some bulbs may take longer to get going. Check inside the tip of the bulb and see if there is any indication of green, if so new grow should eventually start. I have three bulbs that I started in January and one is twice as large as the other two. Try moving the bulbs to a warmer location that might get them going.

    Reply
37. sandra - March 3, 2010 at 9:05 am

    Cut flowers slow to open
    Question, I bought some cut Amaryllis flowers on Sunday of this week and they are still not opened completly. How long do they take to open completly?
    Thanks!

    Hi Sandra
    Amaryllis blooms can take several days to fully open. For maximum bloom time, keep the flowers at 60-70 degrees, trim the bottom of the stem every few days and change the water. In addition, remove old flowers to encourage new flowers to open.

    Reply
38. Betty - March 12, 2010 at 9:01 am

    Loosing leaves
    Hi,
    I have a plant that is loosing its leaves, but has a beautiful bloom. What am I doing wrong? Any info would be greatly appreciated. I just love those plants. Thanks

    Hi Bett
    I’m not sure what’s going on. Usually, the leaves will continue to grow after the bloom is done. The bulb may still send out new leaves so that they can nourish the bulb for next season.

    Reply
39. Jeff Paetkau - April 4, 2010 at 3:15 pm

    Hi,

    Thanks for the great page!

    We acquired a small Amaryllis at a fall fair for a few dollars. We let it grow for awhile. When it seemed to be ready to go dormant so we stopped watering and let the leaves die before cutting it back.
    After 4 or 5 months we started watering it again and placed it in the front window. We didn’t get a flower just 3 leaves. I guess that must have been about a year ago (Until now I haven’t really thought it had been that long).
    Anyway, in January I built an indoor garden with gro-lux bulbs and placed the plant under the lights and the plant seemed to still be going strong. After reading your page I was about to begin to force it into dormancy when I noticed a new leaf growing! It was followed shortly by a second new leaf. The Amaryllis now has 5 healthy leaves and has been growing for about 1 year!
    This afternoon I just looked and saw something odd. Two little tiny leaves coming up the side of the bulb. I have never seen that before! Could it be forming a bulblet? I don’t think it has even flowered yet!

    I am very curious to see what it will do in the future.
    Thank you in advance for any insights you have into what is happening with my plant and how I can best care for it.
    Jeff

    Hi Jeff
    Yes, those are bulblets that your amaryllis is producing. The leaves are rebuilding the bulb and with all this vigorous growth, it should bloom after a dormant period. When it slows down, stops producing leaves and the leaves start to yellow, then you can encourage it to go dormant by watering less.

    Reply
40. john - April 19, 2010 at 6:43 am

    The two I have seen so far have grown to be between 49-55 cm tall.

    Reply
41. Cordelia - July 18, 2010 at 5:26 pm

    I forgot to bring my amaryllis down into the basement for its dormant period after the leaves dried up and now it is sprouting again with leaves sticking up about 1 inch. Should I water it and let it continue to grow or bring it down into the dark cool basement? Thanks for your help!

    Hi Cordelia
    If you want to leave it dormant, take it down to the cool basement and start to water when you are ready to let it grow again.

    Reply
42. Patty - July 27, 2010 at 10:39 pm

    Winter prepTwo questions: (1) As the leaves continue to be green long after watering has stopped, can they just be cut off before bringing inside for the winter? (2) Is it normal for the bulb to shrink quite a lot during the dormancy period when not watered?

    Many thanks for your info!!!!!!!

    Hi Patty
    It’s better if you bring it indoors before frost and let them dieback and then cut it back. Once the soil starts to dry the leaves will eventually yellow. I have cut green leaves before bringing it indoors and found that the bulb did not bloom the next season. I think it also depends on how vigorously the plant was growing during the summer. The bulb does shrink a bit from moisture loss. Make sure the soil doesn’t get bone dry during the winter.

    Reply
43. Sabrina - July 28, 2010 at 1:34 pm

    Amaryllis not blooming
    We have an Amaryllis that is red and planted properly. It’s a few years old and has 4 bulbs in one pot. The problem is it won’t bloom or grow a stalk for a flower. In the winter time I leave the bulbs in the pot and stop watering it, once the leave start to turn yellow. It’s stored in a dark, cool bedroom. How do I get flowers? I’ve never fertilized it. My boyfriend used to water it all year long, but I put a stop to that, so it could requperate. I’ve had it in the shade on the porch one year and this year in the sun untill noon then it’s shaded by the tree. Still no stalk or flowers, lots of good looking leaves. What am I doing wrong? It’s been 2 years and I’ve never seen it bloom.

    Hi Sabrina
    You should fertilize it during the summer when the bulb is growing. In the fall let it go dormant for 8-10 weeks @ 55-60F and then repot in fresh soil.(see above article). If you have several bulbs in one pot, separate them so that they are not competing for moisture and nutrients, that may be the reason why its not blooming.

    Reply
44. Patricia - August 3, 2010 at 9:08 am

    Amaryllis cut flower
    I love to share my amaryllis flowers with elderly friends, and they love to receive them. However, I do not want to part with my nice bulb. How do you treat the amaryllis flower stalk as it is hollow? Does the stalk require searing as do some cut flowers? Also, any ideas on what to put with the stalk to make the arrangement even more appealing?

    Many thanks for your great service.

    Hi Patricia
    Amaryllis makes a great cut flower. You can use it as a focal point (like a topiary)with shoter flowers at the base or combine a few stems in a vase. The flowers last 7-10 days. To treat cut flowers simply cut the stem and place it in tepid water that has a cut flower preservative in it such as floralife. If the stem end starts to split or curl, cut that part off. Splitting or curling will not affect vase life. Florist have tried to dip the stems in salt to prevent curling but that has not been a proven fact that it works. Store the stems in cooler temperature for longer vase life. No searing required.

    Reply
45. Frances - August 18, 2010 at 8:15 am

    Getting ready for dormancy
    Hi,
    I bought an amaryllis last year. I put it in the basement for many weeks and brought it up. It has four new leaves, but the leaves keep falling over. What should I do? This is my first plant that I’ve had to put in a dormant period and it’s also my first bulb plant.
    Thank you!

    Hi Frances
    Amaryllis leaves will fall over(arch) once fully grown while they are growing during the summer. As it is getting close to the Fall season, stop watering the plant now so that it will slowly start to dieback before the frost hits it. Once the leaves turn yellow/brown, cut them off and store the bulb for 8-10 weeks in a cool dark place. see reblooming amaryllis in the above article. Hope this helps.

    Reply
46. Ray - September 3, 2010 at 9:05 am

    Rebloom amaryllis successfully
    I just wanted to share that after years of determinedly going thru’ the phases, one of my 4 bulbs have finally re-bloomed! It started the bloom about 10days ago and is growing taller every day much to my delight! The strange thing tho’ is that the flower stalk came up outside of the leaves, which are growing from the centre- but I’m not complaining as it is the only one to bloom! The other bulbs have 4-6 healthy leaves only, and reading the comments above, I will slow down the watering and feeding now on. Thanks again for encouraging me to persevere!

    Hi Ray
    Congrats! on your success. Typically, the flower stalk can come first or both flower stalk and leaves appear simultaneously, next to each other. Now, you need to get your other bulbs to go dormant for 8 weeks if you want them to bloom in the winter, so to get that started bring your amaryllis indoors before any frost, stop watering and place the pot in a cool, dark location. Light will delay dormancy. This will encourage the leaves to turn yellow/brown, wither and the plant to go dormant. After two months move the pot to warm temperatures, light and start to water. It can take 6-8 weeks for it to bloom. You can stagger bringing your amaryllis out of dormancy so that you’ll have continual amaryllis in bloom.

    Reply
47. Ray - September 10, 2010 at 9:16 am

    Thanks Kris! I am so pleased with the re-blooming that I inspect the red flower pods every time I go past the pot! When it comes to the other bulbs, since it is only about 10C at night, and a chilly 17C during the day, if I leave the pots outside and stop watering, would that still help the dormant stage? I can’t chill the bulbs as such since I don’t have a cellar and the fridge always has fruit, I’m wondering if I can just use the current cooler temperatures to do the job. If there is so much as a hint of frost, I will definitely bring them in, but in the meantime can leaving them outside harm their flowering prospect at all?

    Hi Ray
    If were talking about amaryllis bulbs, they don’t need to chillled in the frig. The leaves need to turn yellow and dry so that they nutrients are returned to the bulbs. Current cool temps will do the job but dry soil and darkness will help force them into dormancy faster. That way you can try to rebloom your amaryllis in Dec.

    Reply
48. Joe - September 29, 2010 at 7:32 pm

    I just found this web page and it is great. I have several amaryllis plants and they are doing well and re-bloom like clockwork except my Papilio. I thought I read somewhere that it didn’t need a dormancy period. I also thought I had read that about “cybisters” as well though my “Chico” bloomed beautifully again this year after a forced dormancy. So do I or don’t I?

    I have also ordered several “dwarf” bulbs for this year’s growing season and was wondering if they needed smaller pots? If so how much smaller?

    Reply
49. pam - October 16, 2010 at 2:40 am

    Reblooming amaryllis
    My amarylis has been outside on my balcony during the dormant period all summer. I have not watered it since the blooms died and I cut the dead flowers and stalks off. new leaves grew alongside the old ones but none have died off. Should I bring it indoors now it is turning cold? I live in southeast UK in a city.

    Hi Pam
    If you want your amaryllis to bloom during the winter, you will need to force it into dormancy. Bring your amaryllis indoors and place it in a dark room (closet) and don’t water. The leaves will eventually turn brown and dry out. Let it rest for 8-10 weeks. After dormancy, repot the bulb in light well drained soil such as a mix of peat and perlite, water and bring back into a heated, bright room. see reblooming amaryllis in above article.

    Reply
50. Kerry - November 8, 2010 at 10:59 am

    Since flowering indoors in May this year, I placed my pot outside on the balcony through Summer and now Autumn. Ten strappy leaves grew and the three bottom ones have since gone yellow. It gets watered when it rains which is quite often. The soil is very damp. I think I should bring it indoors now as the night time temperature is about 39F and I am worried about frost. I only have two places to store it – indoors, which I think will be too warm, and in the cellar, which gets down to about 17F at the very coldest time in December, but it’s usually around 32F during the Winter months. My questions are: where would be better to keep it, must I remove the bulb from the pot, should I try and insulate the bulb if I keep it in the cellar, and how do I go about drying it out – all at once i.e. no water, or gradually?
    Thank you very much for your advice.

    Hi Kerry
    Amaryllis need temps around 50F during storage. No need to remove the bulb from the pot. You can also let the plant continue to grow indoors until it is ready to go back outside in spring. To dry it out gradually reduce watering and place in a dark room. See above article on reblooming Amaryllis.

    Reply
51. Mari - November 22, 2010 at 9:13 am

    I live in the panhandle of Florida and have some heirloom amaryllis in the ground that I would like to delay blooming for approx. a month next year for my daughters wedding. First, can this be done and if so, do I need to dig these up and store in a refrig? I’m experimenting with forcing some for the holidays now-I just dug them up and potted, placed in a sunroom w/heat staying at approx. 72 degrees. Don’t know if this will work…but we’ll see! Any advice you can give on the delaying next spring would be greatly appreciated!

    Hi Mari
    Hmmm.. You can force them into dormancy and then 8-10 weeks prior to bloom time, take the bulb out and start watering to get them to bloom. It might work but the timing isn’t always perfect. At this time dig up a few bulbs, let them die back and store them in a cool dark, dry place (not the frig)such as a closet at 55F.

    Reply
52. Ray - December 27, 2010 at 10:57 am

    Amaryllis afterbloom care
    Hi Kris,
    This year I finally had success with a store-bought bulb from the start – 4 stalks of blooms, of which 3 grew beautifully, but one dried out before the buds could bloom. I cut that stalk off to allow the others to continue growing. Finally, they’ve all bloomed and begun to wilt. The stalks of all 3 however, are green – should I cut them down, or leave as is till the stalks brown? I have read a few other sites and they recommend leaving the stalks alone… Please let me know what would be the best for this phenomenal bulb.
    Thanks!

    Hi Ray
    Hope you had a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. So glad to hear your Amaryllis bloomed. They are beautiful, aren’t they. Here’s what you need to do. Remove each faded bloom right below the stalk pod. After all flowers are done blooming, use a sharp knife and cut off the cylindrical stalk down to several inches (3-5 “) above the bulb but don’t touch the large strap leaves, let them continue to grow. You can leave the stem and let it die down naturally but for aesthetic reasons most will cut the stalk off. The leaves replenish most of the nutrition into the bulb.

    Reply
53. Donna - January 20, 2011 at 1:59 pm

    Hello There,

    Thank you for this site. I am panicking right now. I received an Amaryllis for Christmas and planted it right away. I’ve been paranoid about watering because my pot (from the kit) does not have drain holes. Anyway directions say to water twice a week after bud appears. At first I watered once a week, then 1/2 to 1 cup of water twice a week. Then this week I tested the soil moisture with a pipe cleaner in the soil and it was almost dry so I watered 2 cups (6″ pot) on Monday. My plant is blooming this week. The flowers just emerged in the last couple days. The stalk is healthy and turgid and 32″. The leaves were healthy and tall until this morning when they suddenly fell over. I didn’t panic immediately because I thought they were following the light. But now they are just drooped over the side of the pot, until I tied them to the stalk to support them. They are perfectly green, no yellow. I had the plant outside in the sun a couple hours a day for the last two days to try and keep the stalk straight. No outdoor time today though. Someone told me too much water. I think too little water. What do you think is the problem?

    Hi Donna
    The leaves can get so long that they do flop over the side of the pot. If they are too dry, then the leaves would be soft and totally droop. Keep the plant indoors until its done blooming, moving it back and forth may be the problem.

    Reply
54. Brittany - January 29, 2011 at 2:50 pm

    Broken stem/wilted flowers
    I received my first Amaryllis for Christmas this year, and promptly planted it. Within about a week the stalk had grown to about 24″ and it bloomed three flowers. Last week though, after the flowers had been open for about a week, the plant toppled off my mantle… One of the leaves folded, but didn’t snap apart, and apparently the stems (maybe that part is called the bract?) of all three flowers also. Since they hadn’t actually separated from the plant I stood it back up hoping perhaps they would heal… (This is my first flowering plant. I have no idea what I’m doing!!) But lo and behold all three flowers started to wilt so I snapped them off. Now I’m not sure what to do with it. The leaves are still growing,and the whole thing is still very green. Am I just out of luck on having any more flowers until next year? Help!!!

    Hi Brittany
    The stem may have been injured and is not moving moisture to the flowers or the flowers are done blooming. An amaryllis flowers last 7-10 days depending on room temperature. If you have any unopened buds left, cut off the stem and put it in water. This will not revive the wilted flowers as they are done but will help open a flower bud. Generally, amaryllis will produce one flower stalk, sometimes two. If you don’t have another flower stalk on the plant then it is done blooming. Let the green leaves continue to grow for next year rebloom.

    Reply
55. Gerry - June 6, 2011 at 1:11 pm

    I live on the central/west coast of Florida. My 25 amaryllis bulbs / plants have done well for 10 years, but this summer, the foliage is thin, pale and the bulbs are looking dried up. Plants are in full sun for 6 hours a day. Every 4-6 months, I used a 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer to water with. Recently I am seeing slugs and snails around the base of the bulbs and on the leaves. Should I dig up the bulbs and refrigerate them until September to try to ‘salvage’ them ? Any suggestions for trying to ‘save’ the bulbs would be appreciated.

    Hi Gerry
    Unless the foliage has died back, digging them up would not be a good idea. The foliage needs to replenish nutrients back into the bulb. You might want to divide and replant them in the fall. Meanwhile try to get rid of the slugs which are more prevalent in a rainy season. see http://hortchat.com/info/slugs and give the plants an additional dose of fertilizer.

    Reply
56. Fay Van Horn - November 9, 2011 at 5:52 pm

    Broken flower stalk
    I got a new Minerva Amaryllis bulb and broke off the white growth (leaves or flower) taking it out of the box. Will this still grow? How long can I store these bulbs with a couple of inches of growth before I have to plant them. I was hoping to give them (boxed) as Christmas gifts.

    Hi Fay
    Usually the flower emerges first. My guess is that you broke off the flower stalk. The bulb will still grow but most likely only leaves and no flower. Sometimes, if its a quality bulb, they produce more than one flower stalk. Store them in cool temperatures around 50-55F to slow the growth.

    Reply
57. Martha - December 14, 2011 at 8:48 am

    Magic lily
    My Amaryllis is now 7 inches tall or more accurately the LEAVES are that tall, how can you tell the difference between the Naked Lady plant and the other kind? I am not too sure which one I have. When they came up this last summer, the flowers were pink on a long bare stalk, will the leaves die down and then the flower pop up like they do outside? If so, how tall will the leaves get before that happens.

    Hi Martha
    You may have a Lycoris squamigera is also called the resurrection lily or magic lily which belongs to the amaryllis family. They grow their leaves in the spring and then die back to the ground by midsummer only to return in late summer/fall to bloom. The pale pink flowers are 3-4 inches wide, borne on solid, bare stalks that grow 1 1/2 to 3 ft tall. The straplike leaves are smaller and not are wide as your popular large flowered amaryllis (Hippeastrum).

    Reply
58. Martha - January 23, 2012 at 8:40 am

    My surprise lily’s leaves are dying back, how long will it be before the stem starts to grow, or will I notice it? Will it just pop up or can I watch it grow like the leaves? I have 2 more that are starting to grow tall, and a friend on another web page is going to send me some of the other Amaryllis kind that you can grow for the holidays, should I repot them when I get them? She says the leaves are already growing now.

    Hi Martha
    The flowers stalk should “pop-up” in summer-that’s why they are called surprise lilies.
    Re: amaryllis in the mail. Plant them in pots and allow the leaves to continue to grow. The leaves will build up the bulb for next season bloom. see above article on reblooming amaryllis

    Reply
59. Carmen - March 19, 2012 at 4:45 am

    Hello, I posted a question last year about an Amaryllis Belladonna (I don’t know how to link this one to the same topic) and got your useful answer. You were right, it made leaves, about October, but no flowers. I’m disappointed, but I’m pleased it’s not dead. I’ve been watering it and fertilised it from time to time, too. Some of the leaves started to yellow and die, but there are still quite a lot of green ones. What should I do now: cease the watering completely, wait for all the leaves to yellow or just cut them?
    About when should I start watering again after the rest period? When should I expect seeing any signs of flowers?
    One last question: attached to the main big bulb, there are two bulblets, quite a decent size (about 4cm diameter). Should I separate them and when?
    Thank you very much for your efficient help.

    Reply
60. lilium - October 27, 2012 at 12:57 am

    Hi ~ I believe that I have inherited multiple bulbs, amaryllis that is, from my neighbor. When I dug them up, mid-October – zone 8, there were clumps of bulbs together – at least 10-12 and at least 3 huge bulbs. Since I didn’t know what they were, there were many many strappy long, long leaves, some starting to yellow, I cut some of the off to make transportation a little easier, and to get off the mud. I have yet to plant them, and am wondering how I will plant them, I think I will plant them in partial sun – or getting 3 hours p/day with light shade… I hope this is enough!~! I have no idea what color they are – I’m pretty sure at this point they are amaryllis bulbs sinc they are huge, have a creamy color with brown, rusty outside, long white roots….I couldn’t believe how long the strappy stems were — almost an unsightly site when there were no flowers – looked unkept– Now I understand that the leaves are everso important to feed the bulb. Do you think it will hurt the blooming of the flowers coming this spring? I live in the Portland, Oregon area. Also for future references, when (what month) would be a good time to trim the leaves, or do I have to leave them until they are all yellow?? Will they die off in the winter?? Thank you for your help!! 🙂

    Hi Lilium
    The strappy leaves can look unkempt but you need to allow them to continue to grow so that they can rebuild the bulb for next season. You can cut them off, once the leaves turn yellow/brown. Amaryllis will grow better outdoors in full sun but also do well in part sun. They can be grown year round outdoors in zone 8 with winter protection. Portland. Or. is in zone 8

    Reply
61. Lizzie - December 9, 2012 at 3:41 pm

    Amaryllis white sprouts
    I got 2 box kits from Wal-Mart and just took the last one out of the box it has started sprouting and it is white as snow, It has some brown on one of the leaves, should I cut that off or just leave it alone, also I was wondering how long does it take for the one in water to turn green? Just took it out today and was just wondering. It is in a vase and it is a tight fit in the neck, It already has some roots and a bud and a few leaves, will it bloom in the water?

    Hi Lizzie
    Both amaryllis bulbs will turn green once they are exposed to sunlight. The plant needs sunlight to produce chlorophyll which is the green pigments in the leaves. I would leave the leaves alone for now. The amaryllis will also bloom in water.

    Reply
62. Gene Clements - February 11, 2013 at 2:11 pm

    Red blotch/red leaf scorch
    I live in SoCal. All of my Amaryllis are planted outside. The mature bulbs do flower.

    I’m replanting all of the bulbs that were in containers, and I’ve noticed that all of them have brown, rust-colored areas on them, and so did the base of the leaves that I removed.

    Please tell me what causes this and how do I remedy the situation.
    Many thanks !!
    Gene C

    Hi Gene
    Things that cause rust-colored areas on the bulb can be due to physical injury/bruising. The bulbs can be damaged by insects and small animals. Another common problem is a fungal disease called red blotch or leaf scorch (Stagonospora curtisii) which also shows up as red spots on the plant and bulb. Flower stalks can be distorted and stunted and have red lesion on them. The difference between bruising and the disease is that red blotch has define margins and outlines.
    If it’s a disease, you can treat the bulbs with an expensive fungicides (thiophanate
    methyl) or give it a hot water treatment by soaking the bulb in 104-114F for 30 minutes. see: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP06000.pdf

    Reply
63. Cristy - June 19, 2013 at 5:21 am

    I bought my Amaryllis last year already potted and blooming. When the blooms died off and the bulb went dormant, around September, I planted them in the ground. Then around mid December we had to move. Therefore, I dug them up and repotted them. I have left them in the pot this time but still outside. I damaged one moving it, almost split in two. It still produced leaves but no bloom yet. One has had stunted growth with no bloom, and another bloomed the same as last year only with smaller blooms. I figure this is from me having to move them and expected it to happen. But, I have one that grew very large. I’m guessing around 2 1/2 to 3 feet long with a long bloom stalk that produced 7 blooms and changed colors from the dark pink and lighter center that it was last year to a white outside and light pink center. I am baffled as to how and why this happened and was wanting some insight. They are all in the same pot that doesn’t have drainage and honestly, the way I have treated them I did not expect them to live at all. I need to transplant them and do something to help the growth of the others but am at a loss. When and how should this be done and what do I need to avoid in the future? I would love for all of them to grow as large as the one that changed colors.

    Hi Cristy
    Amaryllis can change colors. Sometimes it’s because of the soil ph, different growing conditions, and genetic mutations. A dominant gene can take over a weaker one thereby changing the color of a flower. I have found that the darker colors on Amaryllis seem to fade after a few years. If you have a flower bed or garden plant your bulbs there and let them grow year round. They will grow much better and once on their natural cycle should eventually bloom and reproduce.
    ps. I’m assuming that you are in a warm climate that amaryllis can winterover.

    Reply
64. Louise H. - May 25, 2014 at 7:50 am

    I have an Amaryllis Belladonna that for the last 3 years has produced about 4 inches of growth and nothing else. I moved it to a sunnier spot last year and got the same results. From my web searches I discovered that I have planted it too deep. I live in the Charlotte, NC area. Is this a good time to replant the bulb to the correct depth or should I just remove the soil so that the top of the bulb is exposed? My Red Lion Amaryllis blooms beautifully and I would love to get the same result from my pink Amaryllis Belladonna.

    Hi Louise
    I would replant it now. Why wait another year for a bloom. Replant it on a cloudy cool day and water after planting.

    Reply
65. Melissa - March 11, 2015 at 8:19 am

    Hi I recently took my moms and I amaryllis out of dormancy about a week ago, and her is sprouting up leaves already. While mine is just spouting up a thin floppy piece up the middle. I have it in a warm sunny window an watering when top layer of soil gets dry, the bulb is firm roots are white and fleshy. Please help!!!

    Hi Melissa
    The kind of growth will depend on how the bulb was stored. Ethylene gas can affect the flower in bulb plants.They must be exposed to temperatures of 50-55F during the dormant period of 8-10 weeks. When you planted the bulb, did you keep the bulb in a warm room with temperatures of above 60 degrees (70-80 is ideal during root development)before moving into the sun?
    It may not bloom this time but should eventually sprout leaves.

    Reply
66. Nicole - July 24, 2015 at 8:21 am

    I have a baby amaryllis bulb that got separated from its “momma” bulb too early. Should I plant it even though I know I will probably not get any leaves or flowers from it or should I leave it unplanted?

    Hi Nicole
    You should plant it so it can grow this season and get larger. If you live in a warmer climate where amaryllis is hardy plant it in the ground.

    Reply
67. Mary J - February 9, 2016 at 10:29 am

    Hi there! I gave my mom an amaryllis called Harlequin for a belated Christmas present, when the one I gave her on the day was mistakenly given to my uncle. Long story!! Anyway, the Harlequin is finally blooming! It has a funny feature, though; the stamens(es?) are attached to petals, not stems of their own, as with most amaryllis(es?), making them sort of a puzzle as to how to detach. Usually, we just pull and the little stamens-stem comes right off. This new arrangement is rather confusing. What should we do to prolong the lives of our lovely flowers? They are SO pretty! We want to enjoy them as long as possible. Thank you! Sorry I’ve forgotten all my Latin grammar. Please don’t tell Miss
    Roper.

    Hi Mary
    Harlequin amaryllis is a lovely plant. I don’t think removing the stamens will make much difference in extending the bloom time. Just make sure it’s away from direct sun and cooler temperatures when in bloom, that will extend flowering.

    Reply
68. June Droen - October 17, 2016 at 2:50 pm

    Hello, It is Oct. 17th 2026 and I live in central Minnesota. My Amarylis has been in a pot all summer and outside on the north side on the deck and now has 9 long leaves so I need help with what to do with it now. It is a big bulb and got 4 beautiful flowers two years ago at Christmas after I bought it. It was the most beautiful one I have ever had. I have not watered it for a while but it does not feel real dry. I brought it inside last week. I live in a home that does not have anyplace cool to put it.

    Hi June
    In early fall bring the pot indoors, gradually reduce watering, allowing it to dry out. Once the foliage is yellow, cut it off and place the pot undisturbed in a coolest room away from any ethylene gas exposure (eg. apples). You want it to rest so allow the amaryllis to go dormant for 8 wks.

    After dormancy, repot the bulb in light well drained soil such as a mix of peat and perlite, water and bring back into a heated, bright room.

    Reply
69. Hazel Jennifer Johnson - November 14, 2016 at 6:25 am

    Hi I am Hazel from South Africa, I have two Double (White & the Blood red) Record Amaryillas as well as Single I have enjoyed reading all about your selections but have a question, the town I live in is Eshowe Zululand and November to February, March it can get very hot. The plants in morning shade and afternoon sun have done very well, those on our deck getting morning sun afternoon shade are not doing so well there stems are short, leafs have red to brown spots on them, please advise.We do not have a green house our plants remain outside all year long, no frost etc. I would love to leave the plants on the deck where they are.

    Reply
70. Sarah - January 12, 2017 at 6:13 am

    I planted my bulb over a year ago, gift 5 long beautiful leaves and thats it it has never flowered, then about a week ago I fertilized my amaryllis with some fertilizer (same as always) now my leaves are Turing brown 🙁

    Hi Sarah
    I would stay away from fertilizing the bulb. Too much will produce lots of leaves and no flowers. It sounds like your bulbs has too much of a good thing-too much water or fertilizer. Let the leaves die back so that they put back nutrients back into the bulb and maybe next time you’ll get it to bloom.

    Reply
71. Eiysha Huff - January 30, 2017 at 9:23 am

    I have a Amaryllis and my son squeezed the steam and it split. It has not even gotten a chance to bloom the flower what do i do and i am a first time planter gardener HELP!!

    Hi
    If there is a flower or bud on the stem, cut it off and put it in a vase with water.

    Reply
72. Rosina Beneke - June 29, 2017 at 4:24 am

    Hi I’m Rosina, from pretoria south africa. We have amarillys in large pots outside, it has myltiple bulbs. We now want to seperate the bulbs and plant in diffirent pots. How do we go about that and when is the best time to do so. We never remove the bulbs from the pot, just move the pots to warmer locations during winter. And another qeustion is it possible to dominate them to making more flower stems per bulb or do they naturally only produce one flower stem

    Reply
    1. Michiel Bester - October 14, 2017 at 6:19 am

       Hi Rosina
       I am also from Pretoria – Centurion to be precise.
       This year we have decided to re-pot our amaryllis plants. In April, we have cut the leaves down to about 2cm, and removed the bulbs from the old pots. I have bagged them in brown paper bags in a cool place until just before the start of spring. In mid August, we re-planted them in new 20cm pots. We used potting soil from the local nursery, and the pots from crazy plastics.
       I am pleased to report that the large bulbs have bloomed within about 8 weeks, and that the smaller bulbs have all sprouted.
       We have had some nice surprises with bulbs that have not bloomed in years.
       Happy gardening 🙂
       Michiel

       Reply
73. barbara Dixon - December 29, 2017 at 3:45 am

    Ihave a amarylilis that looks to have a new bulb growing on the side
    can i split after it have fineasd flowering
    please this is the first bulb i have seen like this

    Reply
74. Gilbert Peele - January 16, 2018 at 9:30 am

    Hey I’m Gilbert, This is my first time of trying to bring our Amaryllis back to life.The leaves are maybe 2′ long off the top of the bulb. But it looks like maybe a couple of leaves about 3″ coming up at the edge of the pot like they are coming from the bottom of the bulb. Does anyone know what this can be?
    Thanks,

    Reply
75. Elaine Cova - March 8, 2018 at 10:08 am

    My amaryllis has produced 2 stems eith 4 flowers each this 3nd year but even though the flowers have finished it never produced any leaves. Last year it had beautiful long green leaves. How will it be able to re energize for next year? It is in a pot with no soil and does have drainage holes. I water it fully in the sink and let it drain before putting it back on the windowsill. What can I do for it?

    Reply