Plant Care and Gardening Tips

Gardening advice and plant care notes

March 20, 2014 · Garden Review / houseplant care

Houseplants spring cleaning

Houseplants spring cleaning

Now that spring has sprung, its time to take a good look at some of your houseplants that have endured the long cold winter. Most houseplants are tropical and require high humidity and warm temperatures, which they most likely will not get in the colder climate regions. The plan is to keep them thriving thru the winter in a restful stage until the warmer weather comes along. With days getting brighter and longer, a new growing season is beginning. It’s time to do some spring cleaning.

spiderplant-C.Vittatum

Check the pot size
Is your plant potbound? Does it have crammed roots? Are they wrapped around in circle?
If so, repot in a 1 inch larger size pot loosening the roots so that they can stretch out.

Check for insects
The dry, warm temperature indoors is a perfect environment for spider mites.
To check for mites, look for webs in the axils of the leaves. Place the plant or leaf on white sheet of paper, tap the leaf, see if there are any small black spots that are slowly moving. If so, spray the entire plant and underside of leaves with a safe indoor insecticide. Follow manufacturers directions.

Rotate the plant
To ensure even sun exposure, rotate the plant a 1/4 turn periodically to get a nicely even shaped plant.

Water
Water when the plant is dry- not according to a timed schedule. Water more less often. Meaning-give the plant more water once at a time than small amounts several times at shorter intervals. Use lukewarm water and soak the plant thoroughly. Be sure to drain any excess water from the bottom of the pot. Most plants require moist (not soggy) soil whereas others need to dry out before watering again. In warmer temperatures and active growth the plants will need to be watered more often.

Fertilize
Once temperatures warm up and the plant begins to actively grow, start feeding with a diluted balanced fertilizer or fish emulsion. Water dry plants before fertilizing to avoid burning the roots with fertilizer. Fish emulsion is not as strong as a chemical fertilizer and therefore is less likely to burn the roots or lead to soluble salt buildup.

Propagation
Spring is a great time to take cuttings and make new plants. Cuttings can root in light soil, peat, perlite or water (depending on the plant).

When night temperatures reach 55F, move your plant outdoors for a summer vacation. Slowly acclimate it in the shade and after a week move it to brighter light (depending on the plant).
Now your plant is ready for a new healthy growing season !

From the reader archive

Useful reader questions

Water house plants while on vacation Hi Kris, I am going on vacation for 4+weeks June – July. I have a fair number of plants and no-one to water them while I’m away. African Violets – 30 pots Geraniums – 3 pots…

Read RAY discussion

Low light houseplants I was wondering if I could grow a Hosta Plantaingea indoors, since it doesn’t like sunlight, anyway. I am looking for something like that to sit on my kitchen table in an apartment that doesn’t get much sun and…

Read JRubin discussion

I have 3 Orchids that have stopped flowering. I have re-potted them in a ready orchid mix, in clear pots, & placed them near a brightly lit window. Is there anything else I should do? When should I resume feeding the plants?…

Read Ray discussion

I have a Phal for over 2yrs that is continuously in bloom! I have yet to cut the original spike down & all the new growths have been have been from each subsequent spike. It has grown horizontally, upto 2ft sideways from…

Read Ray discussion

18 Comments

  1. Shellie McDermott - March 8, 2007 at 6:16 am

    My beautiful peace lily is drooping, I think from overwatering. It had too many people try to help it, now I’m not sure if it can be saved. It has been droopy for a week. What can I do to make it a happy plant again?

    If it has been overwatered, then you need to let the soil dry between watering. They can look very droopy and slowly perk up, depending on how much root damage there is. It may also be drooping because it is pot bound and isn’t get enough water. Wait and see if it perks up, when it does, knock the plant out of the pot and examine the roots. Are they growing in a circle or tightly bound together, filling up the pot? If so, gently separate them, trim off some of the dead (black ) roots and repot the plant in a container 1-2 inches larger. Spring is a great time to repot your plant and get it ready for the growing season. I hope this helps.

    Reply
  2. Mechelle - March 22, 2007 at 9:10 am

    All of my houseplants have turned brown on the tips. I also have little gnats flying around them. I have sprayed and no results. What could this be caused by?

    It sounds as if you have been overwatering your plants and brown tips and fungus gnats are the result. Fungus gnats lay their eggs in the soil which turn into tiny larvae that thrive on fungi and decaying roots. After they pupate, they emerge from the soil as tiny flying gnats. They like constantly moist soil and therefore are an indicator that the soil has been too wet. To control fungus gnats , let the soil dry out between waterings and try BT (israelensis) sold as Gnatrol, Knock-Out Gnats which will take care of the larval stage. Pour the mixture (BT & water) on your soil-follow label directions.Be aware the stuff smells bad. You may have to apply more than once. To get rid of the flying insects, use yellow or blue sticky cards that gnats are attracted to.

    Reply
  3. Peggy Beck - April 12, 2007 at 1:09 pm

    WE HAVE HAD AN ARBICOLA PLANT FOR ABOUT FOUR YEARS NOW AND HAS GROWN ALOT. IS THERE ANY MAINTENANCE TO THESE PLANTS OR PRUNING? SOME OF THE BRANCHES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE PLANT SEEM FULLER THAN THE OTHER SIDES. CAN YOU HELP WITH ANY SUGGESTIONS OF PLANT CARE! THANKS ALOT! PEGGY

    I am presuming that you are growing it as a houseplant. To get a even growth rotate your plants a quarter turn periodically so that it gets even light exposure. If you want to prune away some of the taller “wilder” stems you can trim up to 1/3 of the plant. You can also pinch it back during the growing season to keep growth under control. Feed it during active growth with 1/2 strength fertilizer that includes trace minerals.

    Reply
  4. Sandy Krauser - April 12, 2007 at 1:11 pm

    Hi Kris-enjoy your website! I live in OH zone 5 and my Queensland Umbrella plant is full of tiny little ants. Help!! I had it outside during the summer and just now noticed them, they are mostly in the tray-how do I get rid of them w/out harming the plant. Thanks-Sandy Krausher

    Seems like the ant have found a home in your plant. You can do one of two things: 1) repot the plant and remove the soil with the ants. 2) use an insecticidal soil drench and soak the soil to eliminate the ants. Keep the plant on the dry side, the ants like it moist. When purchasing the soil drench be sure it is registered for indoor plants and safe to use indoors

    .

    Reply
  5. Nancy Newell - April 12, 2007 at 1:14 pm

    Could you tell me the night time temperatures the following plants are able to be allowed to remain outdoors in the summer ??

    pointsetta
    mandevilla
    colius
    shamrock
    and any type of hard green leaf plants from the indoors ??
    thanks for the help.. enjoy this site very much

    Hi Nancy,
    The mandevilla, pointsettia and tropical houseplants will tolerate night temperatures in the high 40’s-50, Coleus and shamrock can stand temps up to 40. Prolongated periods of cold temperatures will affect the plants.

    Reply
  6. Jeannie - January 7, 2008 at 8:58 am

    I transplanted an anthurium into a pot twice the size. I put the pot outdoors in the summer all the leaves turned brown i cut them off and took it indoors. It is taking a very long time to grow and does not flower. What did i do wrong?

    When transplanting use a pot that is 1inch larger than the current pot-too large of a pot can lead to all kinds of potential problems, water-log, root rot. Furthermore, anthurium will bloom when they are potbound so be patient and they will eventually bloom again.

    Reply
  7. Michelle Godin - January 7, 2008 at 9:00 am

    what type of soil should an anthurium be planted in? I’ve got mine in orchid mix and it doesn’t seem to be doing well.

    There are different types of orchid mix, this one should have extra spagnum moss w/charcoal added or a well-drained peaty soil is recommended. The soil should be kepts moist but not soggy at all times. They do like bright light, high humidity and warm temperatures(no lower than 60 during the day) to flower

    Reply
  8. Anne Chrisman - January 18, 2008 at 4:01 pm

    I received an arbicola about a month ago. Every day it droops more & leaves fall off, some are turning brown. What can I do to bring it back to life?

    Your arboricola (Schefflera arboricola, Umbrella Tree) is adjusting to the drastic change in environment. It is a tropical plant that is used to bright light and high humidty. Now is it in lower light and dry air causing the browning and leaf drop. It is adjusting to its new environment. Increase the humidity by using a humidifier or place the plant on a moist pebble tray. Also try to increase the light exposure. It should perk up and send out new growth in the spring.

    Reply
  9. Drenda - April 11, 2008 at 1:58 pm

    2007-
    Drenda
    I have a Pigmy Date Palm and the cold has burnt the branches. Do I trim the branches all the way back to the trunk and if so when should I trim them back?

    Because browning foliage can translocate nutrients to younger leaves, remove the branches when they are dead (brown) and trim them close to the stem. You can trim off the brown tips if the plant looks unsightly

    I want you to know I really appreciate your website. You are a lot of help. I have 2 Pigmy Date Palms and the frost caused the branches to turn brown and die. I fertilized the trees in March. They are starting to get new branches and I can see more new growth in the middle of the trees but they are coming out very slow and some of them have brown spots. Is this normal for these trees. When should I fertilize again? Again thank you for your help.

    Hi Drenda
    Pigmy date palms are slow growers. Aside from insect infestation and diseases, palms can have several nutritional deficiencies (lack of K, Mn, Fe, Mg, N and B)in which some can exhibit brown spots. At any rate, fertilize the trees with a palm tree fertilizer 3 times a year- starting in April, June and finishing in August. It should take care of any nutrient deficiencies.

    Reply
  10. Ray - September 18, 2008 at 10:27 am

    I have 3 Orchids that have stopped flowering. I have re-potted them in a ready orchid mix, in clear pots, & placed them near a brightly lit window. Is there anything else I should do? When should I resume feeding the plants? (They are all Phals) A 4th Orchid has repeatedly bloomed without repotting or anything special, & the creamy blooms are gorgeous & large! So with the others, am at a bit of a loss as they have no new spikes, but healthy leaves & roots.
    Thanks!

    Hi Ray
    Sounds like you’re doing great! Make sure your phals are not in direct sun or it will scald the leaves. You should feed your orchids on a regular basis since the potting media has little nutrients. Use an orchid fertilizer or balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at half strength every two weeks or (weakly, weekly=1/4 strength). I fertilize more in the summer growing season. Repotting should be done after bloom or in the spring. I wouldn’t worry about new flower spikes just yet, as long as your phalaenopsis have new healthy leaves and roots, they’re doing fine. Normally, cool fall nights (55F) will encourage the plant to initiate new spikes.
    Now, here’s a plant tip about the flower spike. When the last flower falls off and the plant is done blooming, cut the spike at the first or second node. This can stimulate a secondary spike to develop and produce more flowers extending your blooming time even longer. If phals are in a happy environment they can bloom for months. Enjoy!

    Reply
  11. Ray - March 26, 2009 at 7:58 am

    I have a Phal for over 2yrs that is continuously in bloom! I have yet to cut the original spike down & all the new growths have been have been from each subsequent spike. It has grown horizontally, upto 2ft sideways from the original stem. The blooms are quite large & atleast 4 to 5 per growth. It is currently blooming again for the 4th time & I was wondering if there is anything I should be doing to make it more manageable. It is also in its orig pot & I can see lots of green roots, but the plant has not yet heaved out of the pot, so to speak! I am loath to cut down the orig stem, fearing I might not get another growth for a long time. Since the plant & its blooms have always been healthy, should I just leave well alone? Another plant given at the same time, bloomed furiously for 18mths & when I finally re-potted it, it died on me; so you can imagine my fear! Thanks for your comments on helping me hold on to this wonderful specimen

    Hi Ray,
    I would leave well enough alone. I have repotted Phalonopsis orchids and they never seem to re-adjust well. It sounds like you have a great environment for them. You can feed with 1/2 strength fertilizer when it starts to grow new leaves so that it gets more nutrients. I would not consider repotting until it stop blooming.

    Reply
  12. Ray - March 30, 2009 at 9:15 am

    Thanks for re-assuring me on my orchid care! Yes, I do seem to do well with them & have infact been given friends’ plants which have not bloomed after the 1st time, & cared them into re-blooming!
    Thanks again for your advice.

    Reply
  13. Ray C - July 26, 2009 at 8:07 am

    Is it possible to split a anthurium,because it is getting to big for my pot.

    HI Ray
    Yes, they can be divided. Knock the plant out of the pot and split the large root clump and replant in fresh soil. Each division should have ample roots. If you have any offshoots, simply separate them from the mother plant and replant as well. Make sure your offshoots have some roots on it. Keep your newly divided plants moist (not wet) and in a protected area away from direct sun until they are established.

    Reply
  14. JRubin - March 5, 2010 at 8:35 am

    Low light houseplants
    I was wondering if I could grow a Hosta Plantaingea indoors, since it doesn’t like sunlight, anyway. I
    am looking for something like that to sit on my kitchen table in an apartment that doesn’t get much sun and has fluorescent – maybe from 10 to
    1. I have avocado plants with big leaves growing by the window. I alsohave a fig tree, although the leaves are not as lush as the ones growing outside.
    Back to the hosta plant – I want one that will not grow too large or wild. I have a giant coffee cup (with a hole on the bottom) and saucer, but I don’t want a plant that will wander off. I used to have little cacti, but they didn’t do too well, and we kept getting poked. If the hosta plant is not feasible, would you be able to suggest a non-light-loving plant for the table?
    Thank you very much.

    Hi Judy
    Hosta can be grown indoors only on a limited basis. First of all, you would have to get a shade hosta. There are some “mini” varieties such as “mouse ears” that you can try. I have never grown them indoors but have heard that they can be treated as a houseplant. The problem that comes to mind is that they need a cold dormant period and may die back in the fall. They can be grown as container plants-meaning outdoors/indoors in summer and then stored dormant in the garage for the winter. Sorry that I can’t give you a yes or no answer but that’s usually how it is with plants.
    A plant that you might want to try is a small peace lily (Spathyphylum) which is a houseplant that tolerates low light and has a similar look to a hosta. Lucky bamboo is also a low light plant as well as the dracaena family. An interesting looking plant is the ZZ plant.(Zamiocolus zamifolia). Aglomena and Cast Iron plant (Apidistra).
    Keep in mind that low light plants grow slower, therefore require less fertilizer and water.
    I hope this info gives you some choices to try.

    Reply
  16. Lori - September 15, 2010 at 7:42 am

    Pruning Umbrella tree
    Hello, I have an umbrella plant that is extremely large, at least 7 feet tall at it’s highest point,, It’s doing well except for a bare spot on the tallest trunk. The other trunks are pretty gnarled and hang about 3 feet to the side. I would like to downsize this plant and straighten up some for the sake of space but am not sure how to go about doing this. As I’ve mentioned it’s quite large and at this point it’s intimidating me…..

    Hi Lori
    You can cut the plant back by 1/3 to 1/2 to downsize your Umbrella plant (Schefflera). It should bounce back with new growth between the nodes making the plant even better. Spring is a better time to do this drastic pruning as the plant will be ready to put on new growth.

    Reply
  17. RAY - April 24, 2012 at 10:08 am

    Water house plants while on vacation
    Hi Kris,
    I am going on vacation for 4+weeks June – July. I have a fair number of plants and no-one to water them while I’m away.
    African Violets – 30 pots
    Geraniums – 3 pots
    Orchids – 7
    Spider plants – 2
    Poinsetta – 2
    Amaryllis – 5 (none blooming)
    Callas – 1

    Please tell me how to keep them moist for that time! I can’t place them in the bath tub as there’s no light whatsoever.
    Would those watering bulbs (which u invert into the soil) work for the larger pots?
    I’m most concerned about the Orchids and Violets, as they need regular watering every 7-10 days.
    Please help!
    Thanks.

    Hi Ray
    This is a tough one. Looks like you have a lot of plants to take care of and 4 weeks is a long time. Of course, the best thing would be to have someone water your plants or perhaps farm out some of your high maintenance plants.

    I think the watering globes should work well for your larger pots. Another option is a self-watering method. Buy some special wicks (such as cotton shoelaces or candle wicks), that absorb moisture and will move water by capillary action from a container filled with water to the plant pots. The water surface should be lower than the plants. Place one end of the wick firmly inside the soil of the pot and the other in water.
    Another option is felt mats. They can be placed hanging down in a sink or water reservoir and the rest on a drain surface next to the kitchen sink. The mat will remain moist at all times. You can place your african violets on the mat and they will absorb the moisture from the mat. This works good with plastic but not clay pots.
    Depending on where you live, if you have a rainy season during the summer, orchids could do quite well outdoors.
    Grouping your plants together and avoiding direct sunlight should also help. Don’t let the house get too hot inside as that will dry out the plants faster. Keep it at the normal growing temperatures that they are used to or slightly lower. Be sure to give your plants a good soaking before your leave.
    Enjoy your vacation!

    Reply
  18. RAY - May 5, 2012 at 6:59 am

    Thanks for your suggestions, Kris! I am going to attempt the felt mats for the violets and see how that works over the next few weeks.
    I live in Mississauga, Southern Ontario and we don’t get a lot of rain in June. I was planning to place the Orchids in a container with water, where the bottom 1″ of the pot is immersed. I know they don’t like their roots wet, but hopefully they would do ok if it’s only for about 10-14days by which time the water level will drop. What do you think?
    What about the Amaryllis, which are single plants in 4″ plastic pots? And Callas that are in a 6″ clay pot? Should I use the globes for them as well?
    Thanks so much for your help!
    Raynah

    Reply

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