Plant Care and Gardening Tips

Gardening advice and plant care notes

August 4, 2010 · Garden Review / Mandevilla / TROPICAL PLANTS

Propagate mandevilla

How to Propagate mandevilla

From cuttings

Mandevilla plant can be easily propagated from cuttings to make new plants.  The best time to take cuttings is in the spring but they can also be taken in summer/fall.  Take 2-3 tip or side shoot cuttings that have new growth that is beginning to firm (not new light green growth) remove all but the 2 top leaves. Dip the cuttings in rooting hormone and place in sandy peat soil mix. Keep the cuttings moist and humid with bottom heat of 68-77F (20-25C).  To maintain humidity, place them in a plastic bag (opening periodically to release excess moisture) . Keep cuttings in shaded area, out of direct sunlight. It can take 20-70 days to root.

For softwood cuttings (before new growth begins to firm), remove the soft tip and lowest pair of leaves.  When inserting into the medium predibble the hole and insert cutting, gently firming the soil around the stem. Water in with a fungicidal solution to avoid fungal infection. When roots form, plant in 4″ pots and pinch back new growth to promote side shoots and bushier plants.

Mandevilla seeds
come from the center of the calyx. The seed pods are around 4-6 inches long and hang in pairs in the shape of an inverted V. When the pods dry, they will turn brown and split open exposing fluffy seeds that have fluffy aerials (like dandelions) to help disperse them. With the tail on, soak the seeds for 12 hrs. then plant and cover with soil. Keep at a temperature of 65-75. Should germinate within 30 days.

More info on Mandevilla care and how to Winterize Mandevilla

From the reader archive

Useful reader questions

I bought my mandevilla in full bloom planning on replanting it on my garden. I live in central Florida and this is my first year attempting to garden. To make a long story short, I didn’t get a chance to finish my…

Read Niv discussion

Start new cuttings Hi Kris, I live in Michigan and a recently purchased a Mandavilla vine. I actually have a couple of questions. I have read that you can overwinter your mandavilla vines indoors during winter months but I would like to…

Read Virginia discussion

Someone gave me a SunParasol “Giant Crimson” Mandevilla hybrid PP17736 which was gorgeously dramatic when it arrived, but lost its blooms and developed only small new leaves. I was told it could not take any Southern California sun–but now I am suspicious.…

Read Karla discussion

Ditto what Angela (above) said! I love your site and all the info provided! I’m wondering if you might be able to explain how (and what exactly do I use) to “wrap” my mandevillas and overwinter in my garage. I know they’ll…

Read Terry discussion

28 Comments

  1. Virginia - August 8, 2010 at 7:14 am

    Start new cuttings
    Hi Kris, I live in Michigan and a recently purchased a Mandavilla vine. I actually have a couple of questions. I have read that you can overwinter your mandavilla vines indoors during winter months but I would like to know If I should cut it back, fertilize, and will it bloom while inside like my tropical hibiscus? Also if I do have to cut it back, what is the easiest way to start the new cuttings? I have already tried once using rootone and it did not work. Sonya

    You can lightly fertilize your mandevilla before you bring it inside with a higher middle number, then prior to bringing it indoors cut it back to about 12 inches. The key during the winter months is to maintain the plant and keep it in a semi-dormant stage indoors. It will probably loose some leaves and will not bloom. When you set the plant out again in the spring, cut back some of the leggy growth up to 50% acquired indoors. To start new cuttings – take a cutting off a side shoot about 4-6 inches including a node. Remove lower leaves and dip in rooting hormone. Insert in a sandy rooting soil or 50/50 perlite/vermiculite medium and water in. Place in plastic bag in bright light away from direct sun. It should root in 4wks. This should be done in the summer. Have fun!

    Reply
  2. admin - August 9, 2010 at 4:52 pm

    Mandevilla seeds
    I am trying to start Mandevilla from seed. My question is…Does the seed come from the end of the stem at the base of the bloom ? Is it a single seed or a cluster of 8 or 10 seeds? If it is 8 or 10 tiny pin head size seeds, that have a hair-like tail, do I leave the tail on when I plant the seeds. OR…Do the seeds grow separately in a stalk-like pod ?
    Thank you, Howard

    Mandevilla seeds
    come from the center of the calyx. The seed pods are around 4-6 inches long and hang in pairs in the shape of an inverted V. When the pods dry, they will turn brown and split open exposing fluffy seeds that have fluffy aerials (like dandelions) to help disperse them. With the tail on, soak the seeds for 12 hrs. then plant and cover with soil. Keep at a temperature of 65-75. Should germinate within 30 days.

    Reply
  3. admin - August 9, 2010 at 4:55 pm

    Mandevilla seeds
    I love your site and I have a question about my Mandevilla. This is my second year and I’m going to take them in this year to try and save them. One of the plants is getting seed pods. I’ll plant the seeds in the spring at my friends greenhouse. Will they produce large, blooming plants the first year?

    HI Virginia
    Wait till the bean-like pod turns brown before you pick it. Lightly cover the seeds with a soil starter mix. Keep it warm with bottom heat 68-77F and constantly moist-not wet. Germination should occur in 14-30 days. Once leaves start to show. move them into sunlight.
    I have not grown them from seed but I suspect that the first year will be spent on root/leaf growth and not flowers. Good luck and let us know what happened.

    Reply
  4. admin - August 9, 2010 at 5:00 pm

    Mandevilla seeds
    I have seeds from my Mandevilla from last year. What do I need to do to get them to grow. I have planted a couple dozen in soil watered them every other day & nothing. Is there something I need to do in addition to this???

    Hi Maggie
    For best results you should use fresh Mandevilla seeds. Seeds from last year may have a viability issue. When you plant, barely cover the seeds with soil. Provide bottom heat 68-77F (20-25C) to help germination. Put the container on a heating pad or a propagating blanket (if you have one). Be sure the medium stays moist all times by placing a clear plastic tent or a sheet of glass over the container. With a little luck, the seeds should germinate in 14-30 days.

    Reply
  5. admin - August 9, 2010 at 5:06 pm

    Propagate mandevilla
    Can I ask how you propogate them? Whatever you are doing, seems to be successful.

    Hi Sunny
    Stem cutting from mandevilla can be taken in the spring. Choose side shoots 2-3 inches long (dip the cut end in rooting hormone- optianal) and insert in sandy peat soil. Keep cutting moist(not too wet)and supply extra humidity with a plastic bag or propagating case until roots form then plant in 3″ pots. Pinch back new growth to promote side shoots and bushier plants.

    Reply
  6. Lori - August 26, 2010 at 9:30 am

    No seed pods
    I have 2 potted Giant White Parasol Madevilla’s and I haven’t seed any seed pods. They bloom profusly, and are rapidly climbing the trellis I have in their pots, but no seed pods. I also have 2 huge deep 4ft long planters with red Mandevilla’s in them, and again, tons of flowers, no seed pods. I live in zone 5, Vermont.

    Hi Lori
    To get seed pods depends on if/when your tubelike flowers are pollinated. Large bees and moths are more active in late summer, thereofore you may see some pods(if any) closer to the end of the growing season.

    Reply
  7. Lori - September 4, 2010 at 10:45 am

    Whitefly
    Thanks for the reply. I hope I’m not out of line with my next question, as it’s not on propagation, but insects. I am having a serious problem with white flies and aphids on my white parasol mandevillas. I have sprayed them with an orchard spray that has always worked great on all my plants, for insects as well as disease. Oddly enough, it hasn’t really done much for them. Now their leaves are yellowing and dropping off.

    Hi Lori
    You should check the label and make sure it is recommended for use on Mandevilla. The whitefly may also built up a resistance to the spray. Try Neem oil or a pyrethrum based spray and see if that will help take care of the whitefly. They can be difficult to get rid of and need several applications.

    Reply
  8. Myra Moore - September 20, 2010 at 12:34 pm

    Not blooming
    I am growing multiple mandevilla plants from tubers I discovered two years ago when I brought my large plant in for the winter. They are five feet tall with lots of leaves and no flowers-for the second summer. Is there any hope for flowers for next summer?
    Thanks

    Hi Myra
    They should bloom, especially since you had a lot of healthy growth this year. What might have happened is that your mandevilla was too happy. If you fertilized it or it had a rich source of nutrients especially nitrogen then it would grow lots of leaves at the expense of flowers. Plants will have a tendency to bloom when they are slightly stressed.

    Reply
  9. Gary Allman - September 22, 2010 at 6:41 am

    I lived in Georgia and planted by Mandevilla outside. Can it be left outside during winter? How does it need to be prepared for winter?

    Hi Gary
    Mandevilla is hardy in zone 9-11, Georgia is in zone 7 and 8. You may have to bring it indoors or protect it in the winter. see winterize mandevilla for more info.

    Reply
  10. Veronica Scull - October 31, 2010 at 11:05 pm

    Can anyone tell me if the flower of Mandevilla Sanderi ‘Rosea’ is poisonous ? I would like to use picked flowers to display on a fruit platter that I am arranging. Many thanks, Veronica from Sydney Australia

    Hi Veronica
    Mandevilla flowers are considered non-toxic but they rest of the plant is suspected to be slightly toxic. If you eat the flowers you can get an upset stomach. http://www.ehow.com/facts_7396220_mandevilla-flowers-toxic_.html. To be on the safe side, I would not use them where there is contact with food, in addition to the toxic factor there is also the chemical spray problem. If the plant was treated for any insects etc. there can be a residual amount on the plant. Here are some other flowers you can use.. http://hortchat.com/info/incredible-edibles

    Reply
  11. Jack - May 8, 2011 at 2:41 pm

    I have overwintered a half dozen mandevilla in my garage in Michigan. Some look like they will be okay, showing some new growth, but others look dormant. When I unpot the dormant ones, some show what look like viable tubers or various sizes and others do not. Should I just wait for the ones with tubers to wake up, or should I treat them differently somehow? Like, should I pot up some of the tubers indoors? do the tubers have eyes like potatoes?

    Reply
  12. soapie - July 19, 2011 at 6:04 am

    recently purchased an mandevilla from homedepot and the tag said it is a perennial, since then I understand they are not pernnials,, is that true?

    Hi Soapie
    Its a perennial in tropical climates (growing zone 9-11) not for most parts of the the US.

    Reply
  13. Judie Blanke - July 19, 2011 at 4:52 pm

    I know you have multiple sites of us needy gardners, asking questions so I almost hate to email again. Any thought on why my two Mandevillas are having spindly, mis-shapen leaves and now I am loosing more yellowed leaves on the bottom than normal. Third year in the same spot, now soil, same pots. Washed them well with purchased insectical soap, waiting to hear from you what to do next. Thanks!

    Reply
  14. Jacqui - July 28, 2011 at 6:18 am

    I purchased my Mandevilla from garden center,looked great but now the new buds keep falling off, when you look at the bottom of the bud it`s brown in colour. Can you tell me what`s wrong. Am I over-watering it? wait to hear from you Thanks!

    Hi Jacqui
    It may be a root problem that is causing the plant to abort flower buds. Soil that is too wet will cause root rot. Make sure the soil drains well.

    Reply
  15. Carmen - August 3, 2011 at 1:01 pm

    I just bought a Mandevilla vine and I live in Los Angeles California and am very new to the west coast having lived all my life on the east coast. What is the best way to take care of these plants. I have enjoyed reading all the comments but couldn’t find anyone that is from here. Can I leave it outside year around? When do you take the bands off that they have on them? Does it matter what kind of trelis you have for it? What size should the pot be? What kind of soil does it need? As you can tell I am clueless. 🙂 I love plants but don’t have the most wisdom on taking care of them. Thank you for your help.

    Hi Carmen
    Los Angelos is in hardy zone 10 so your mandevilla vine can be planted and left outdoors year round. The vine will wind around any trellis or a tall post. It likes full sun to part shade in the summer and a deep rich, well-drained soil to grow in. Provide plenty of water during the hot days of summer. The bands are there to keep the vine from tangling, once it is planted and has something to wind around you can remove them. for more info see http://hortchat.com/info/mandevilla-care-and-tips

    Reply
  16. Angela - August 29, 2011 at 7:55 am

    Yellow leaves
    This is my first year gardening. I have 6 mandevillas with the red flowers, I was told they are mandevilla bushes . They have been doing good until bout 2 weeks ago. The leaves are turning yellow and some have spots on them. What can I do and why are they turning yellow. I water them as needed. Also, I live in Illinois. How do I save them over the winter? And what are “shoots?” And how do I get it to be busier? And how do I get them to start blooming again? Please help me out, I’m new to gardening so I don’t know much about it. Thank you.

    Hi Angela
    There are a number of reasons why the leaves turn yellow. Yellowing older leaves can be a respose to stress, such as overwatering or too much rain, lack of fertilizer(nitrogen) or the plant is just shedding some of its old leaves. It can also indicate insect infestation.
    Yellow leaves with spots: There are two types of leaf spots diseases caused by either bacteria or fungus that can occur during the warm, wet summer months 1. Corynesporo Cassicola 2. Cereospera. The disease spreads quickly on wet foliage. Cercospora begins with small purple spots which enlarge and develop dried tan areas in the center showing an overall brown spot. The leaves turn yellow with the spots and fall off after a few days. The best control is to avoid overhead watering, sanitation – remove any infected leaves and spray with a fungicide (Zyban) . Follow label directions.
    See http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla and http://hortchat.com/info/mandevilla-care-and-tips for more info on growing mandevilla.

    Reply
  18. Terry - October 9, 2011 at 5:55 pm

    Ditto what Angela (above) said! I love your site and all the info provided!

    I’m wondering if you might be able to explain how (and what exactly do I use) to “wrap” my mandevillas and overwinter in my garage. I know they’ll need to be fairly dry, but, generally, how often does that mean I need to water them? If they are “wrapped”, will they stay too wet when I water them? I’m in southeast MA and it gets pretty cold during the winter here. My garage is not heated so I can imagine it will get pretty cold (this will be our first winter with a garage), possibly even freezing temps. I love my mandevillas and I’m a wee bit concerned.

    I’m also wondering if it’s too late to fertilize them before I bring them in.
    Anyone else who wants to chime in with their experiences of how they have overwintered would be great, too!
    Thank you so much!

    Reply
  19. Karla - November 17, 2011 at 11:27 am

    Someone gave me a SunParasol “Giant Crimson” Mandevilla hybrid PP17736 which was gorgeously dramatic when it arrived, but lost its blooms and developed only small new leaves. I was told it could not take any Southern California sun–but now I am suspicious. I planted it on a north facing wall.

    I have seen bushy, pink flowered hard leaved (like a camellia) mandevillas; longer, darker green ridged leaf mandevillas. The one I have has a long dark green soft leaf.
    What does the direction “takes full sun to part shade” really mean ? If a plant takes both conditions, does a placement in “full sun” require more water & a lower temperature than one happy in “part shade” ?

    Hi karla
    Full sun is 8 hours of direct sun which can be a bit much for So. Cal. when combined with the summer heat. The plant will require more water when in full sun just to keep itself hydrated. Too much sun can also stress the plant. Afternoon shade would be beneficial in hot temperatures. On the other hand, if it doesn’t get enough sun, your mandevilla will become spindly and bloom less. Generally plants will tolerate more sun in cooler weather. If your plant is “happy” in part shade leave it there.

    Reply
  20. LU - March 28, 2012 at 2:18 pm

    hi I live in N.D I am wondering If I can repot my mandvella? and can I cut itback. thanks

    Hi Lu
    Yes, you can repot your mandevilla and cut it back by 1/3 to stimulate new growth. In fact, it’s a good idea to do so after wintering it indoors.

    Reply
  21. June - June 21, 2012 at 6:43 am

    Yellowing leaves on mandevilla
    I have problem mandevilla plant, the leaves starting turning a spotty yellow, then the entire leaf turned yellow. What is causing this? I pulled all the affected leaves off, so far only a few have turned yellow. These I pulled off and watch daily.

    Hi June
    Barring insect infestation, yellowing older leaves can be a respose to stress, such as overwatering, not enough water, lack of fertilizer(nitrogen) or the plant is just shedding some of its older leaves. The older yellowing leaves can also indicate lack of nitrogen. Be sure that the soil is well drained, not water logged.
    Insects such as aphids, scale, spider mites,and mealy bugs will feed on the plant sap causing the leaves to turn spotty yellow to yellow. Check the plant for insects.

    Reply
  22. Jan Humphrey - July 11, 2012 at 6:35 am

    Mandevilla from seeds
    I bought 5 Mandevilla Chilean seeds from a nursery in London, England (off eBay). They didn’t come with a fluffy tail. Just a plain little straight really dry seed. I didn’t know to soak them. There were no planting instructions, but I did plant them with a light coating of potting soil and sand mix and moistened it well. I’ve probably screwed up big-time, though. Did I just waste my money?

    I bought another mandevilla from Wirt’s nursery in Wadsworth, OH and it came in full glory. It even came with 5 flowers and I had to trellis it already. For $10.00, I got my money’s worth on that one!.

    Hi Jan
    I don’t think you did anything wrong. Make sure the soil stays moist and warm. Soaking the seeds helps speed up the germinating process. Mandevilla seeds take a month or more to germinate. Don’t give up yet.

    Reply
  24. Sher - November 12, 2012 at 1:29 pm

    Scale
    My friend has a crimson madavelia that she brings indoors every winter and back out in the spring. She has noticed her flowers and leaves have developed a strange sticky sap on them and can’t figure out what it is, its cause and how to treat it. Got any ideas?

    Hi Sher
    Examine the plant closely. Check the underside of the leaves and the stems. If there are any bumps that can be scraped off, then its possible that the plant has scale. Scale is one insect that will exude a clear sticky substance.

    Reply
  25. lois walczak - December 19, 2012 at 5:18 pm

    how do i get rid of the very tiny flys that live on the top of the soil?

    Hi Lois
    It sounds like you are keeping the soil too moist and fungus gnats love that environment. See fungas gnat for treatment suggestions.

    Reply
  26. Linda - April 24, 2013 at 8:14 pm

    I live in Ky. Can I plant my Mandevilla in the ground , then before winter, dig it up and put into a pot and bring it indoors?

    Yes you can. see

    Reply
  28. Niv - June 28, 2015 at 5:00 am

    I bought my mandevilla in full bloom planning on replanting it on my garden. I live in central Florida and this is my first year attempting to garden. To make a long story short, I didn’t get a chance to finish my weekend project and my beautiful plant was left forgotten in the living room for about 4-5 days. It had been in a corner where it was dark, the leaves were dark and dry, some of the vine itself had turned also, the flowers had fallen off. For the past week since I’ve been trying to save it. I got rid of the leaves and cut off the dry parts. Watered it, moved it to in front of the window. I don’t know what else to do. Can it be saved? Please help

    Hi NIV
    Move the mandevilla outdoor in the shade so it can recover and enjoy the humidity and warm temps. It sounds like a watering issue. Most likely, it dropped its leaves due to lack of water over watering, which would stress out the plant and cause leaf drop.
    Now, be careful not to over compensate and give it too much water. The soil should be evenly moist but not dry. Make sure water drains from the bottom of the container and then wait a few days (depending on weather) to water again. Don’t let it sit in water as that will cause root rot. Once it recovers, you can move it to more sun.

    Reply

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