Climbing Hydrangea

89 Comments

1. rick schulte - April 28, 2008 at 8:35 am

   Climbing Hydrangea: can climbing hydrangea’s be grown on cyclone fencing, thankyou, rick

   Hi Rick,
   Climbing hydrangea is not a good choice for a chain link fence. It does not climb by twining itself around the support rather it clings to surfaces with rootlike tendrils that have adhesive disks on the ends. It needs a flat surface such as brick, stone or masonary wall to adhere to. It is also a slow grower from the start and would take a few years to fill in. There are other vines you can try, for a quick cover try some of the annual vines such as morning glory, hyacinth bean (Dolichos lablab , red cardinal climber, baloon vine, Black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata), Scarlet Runner Bean (Phaselous coccineus) and Mina lobata. Perennial vines may take longer to get started but return each year. Some suggestions are Hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta), Fiveleaf Akebia, Porcelian vine, trumpet vine, clematis, Hop vine (Humulus ) and wisteria. Some are known for their beautiful flowers others for interesting leaf shape and texture. When selecting a vine, sun exposure, soil and hardiness should be considered.

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2. Ann Martinez - June 15, 2008 at 8:02 am

   Hi:
   I planted two climbing hydrangea vines this spring. They are planted on a north facing fence and get some morning sun. They seem to be doing well except that on one of them the leaves are turning red. What could be the cause of this?
   Thank you
   Ann

   Are they in the same location? Is the environment (sun, soil drainage) the same for both vines? Red leaves can indicate some root stress.
   Another indicator for leaves turning red is that the roots are not getting enough water or that there is some kind of damage incurred, possibly by an animal.

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3. dianne galleshaw - June 25, 2008 at 10:52 am

   my climbing hydrangea was growing up a brick wall. someone or something pulled it away from the wall. are there any types of clips i can use to reposition it until new rootlets take hold?

   Hi Dianne
   Try the support clips that are available for displaying pictures on brick walls. They do not damage the brick or mortar and no holes to drill. Put one on each side and feed a wire accross to hold up the vine until it re-attaches itself to the brick. You can then , remove the clips.

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4. Matty - July 5, 2008 at 9:59 am

   Propagate climbing hydrangea
   I just bought a house that has a beautiful climbing hydrangea along an entire side of the house. I suspect it is 10-20 years old but all of the growth comes from 2 stems. This results in some spotty growth near the top of the wall in a few areas. I am going to try your tip with using picture support clips.
   Would there be any harm in trying to take some cuttings and add them to the wall, or do these plants like that kind of crowding? Also, are soft wood cuttings the best for propagation or will the plant make viable seeds?

   Hi Matty
   There would be no harm in adding more cuttings. You can propagate the vine by layering (serpentine layering) or use cuttings (before the stems turn brown) of non-flowering shoots. Get cuttings with 2-3 pairs of leaves, remove one set of lower leaves and root in a sandy soil in the shade. They can also be started from seed that has been cold stratified for 2-3 months. Pruning after bloom will also help it get bushier

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5. John Roberts - July 10, 2008 at 2:28 pm

   We bought what was labeled a spreading hydrangea. It is low and spreading very slowly along a fence. We planted it 3 years ago. How do care for it? Should we dead head it and if so when? Should we prune branches or old leaves and if so when?

   You probably have Hydrangea petiolaris which is a climbing/spreading plant. It is usually slow to start but once it gets established it will grow rapidly. Maintain even moisture and well-drained soil, fertilize little when young. Grow in full sun or partial shade. This is a vining type hydrangea needs a sturdy structure to clilmb on. It doesn’t require much pruning until it’s well established and then only when you want to control the growth. In fact too much pruning can delay blooming for years. I would leave it alone.

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6. Gary Anderson - July 10, 2008 at 2:29 pm

   Pruning climbing hydrangea
   The tag on my plant says hydrangia petiolaris. It’s been in 2 years, the vines are healthly looking, bright green, but nothing that looks like a flower or bloom. I’m in partial shade, but vines look great as well as leaves. Where are my flowers? I did not trim it back last year…Thanks..can you help me? I’m in upstate new york, sidney to be exact.

   Hydrangea petolaris is a slower starter and needs little pruning. Excessive pruning will delay blooming for several years. It blooms in mid-summer in part shade /full sun.

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7. Diane - July 20, 2008 at 12:42 pm

   I read all the articles on the Climbing hydrangeas and nothing helped me. My problem with mine is that I have had it for 6 years now and has only grown to about 3 feet and has never bloomed. I have it planted on the north side of the house and next to a fence for support. it has plentry of shade. Help!

   Hi Diane
   As you may have read, climbing hydrangeas are notoriuosly slow to start. Because yours is soo slow, I would suspect that it needs more light to speed up the blooming process. It also likes well-drained rich soil and cool roots.

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8. Sharon - August 29, 2008 at 10:24 pm

   Pruning Climbing Hydrangea
   We just bought a home that has climbing hydrangea along the back fence. It looks like it has been neglected for years. When we moved in April it had all the dead leaves and flowers from last year on it. We weren’t sure what it was so we left it alone. It has now grown over the top of the 7′ fence and out about 3-4′ into the yard. Will it hurt if we prune it way back? How far back can we prune it? I know there are other plants on either side of it that try to survive but are have a difficult time.

   HI Sharon
   Yes, you can cut it back to control the excessive growth. Now that its established it will grow back quickly. You can cut it back by 1/3-1/2. Remember. the more you cut it back the less flowers you will have.
   The best time to prune it is after it is done blooming.

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9. jane - September 18, 2008 at 10:15 pm

   Will climbing hydrangea grow to cover a creosote treated wood and metal retaining wall?

   HI Jane
   The aerial roots of climbing hydrangea should be able to attach and climb on wood and the retaining wall.

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10. Monika R. Cleveland - January 18, 2009 at 1:52 pm

    I planted a climbing hydrangea approximately 3 years ago next to our pergola on the west side of our home. We noticed some good growth last year until we pulled it back to stain the pergola – we will not do that agajn! However, toward the end of the summer – I noticed that many of the leaves were turning brown and falling off. Could it be diseased? I keep waiting for the growth spurt to begin and hear it is the “cadillac” of vines. Should I wait it out, try some compost, or move the plant to a better location?

    Hi Monika
    I would wait till spring before doing anything. Your climbing hydrangea may have shed some of its leaves in the fall although fall color is yellow. Pulling the vines back may have caused the problem. Wait it out and see what the plant does this spring. Feed it lightly in spring with 5-10-10 or compost around the plant. I don’t recommend moving the plant unless it’s necessary. Moving it will set the plant back dramatically.
    Another thought is that they don’t like afternoon sun (Western exposure) without any shade-especially in warmer climates. Too much sun can “scorch” the leaves turning them brown which may become a problem in the future as the vine grows larger.

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11. Catherine - April 3, 2009 at 11:21 am

    April 3, 2009
    I planted my climbing hydrangea 5 years ago. It is located on the South side of our house and looks beautiful every year except no flowers. I prune it a little during the summer and cut it back a lot in the Fall. Am I pruning it to much that prevents it from flowering?

    HI Catherine
    Yes, excessive pruning of your climbing hydrangea will delay blooming. It can take 6-10 yrs to start blooming.

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12. Christine Wryn - April 6, 2009 at 4:24 pm

    I have a bug of some kind that is eating the leaves on my climbing hydrangea and would like to know what it is and what to use to get rid of them. I don’t see any bugs on the leaves or stems. Thanks

    HI Christine,
    It’s difficult to determine what is eating your climbing hydrangea. In order to treat it you need to determine what kind of insect is causing the problem. I recommend that you examine the vine closely for insects and take a leaf to a local extension office .

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13. Dottie - April 23, 2009 at 3:29 pm

    Climbing on metal surface
    I have a climbing hydrangea that is 3 or 4 years old. Got it at a plant sale. It is very healthy and I have to climb on a metal arbor. It has not grown more than 18 inch high. Does it have to be on a wooden structure in order to climb. I do not want to put it on my house or other buildings.
    Please advise.
    Thanks,
    Dottie

    The aerial roots on climbing hydrangea need something rough to cling to. A metal surface is too smooth. You can try weave in some type of rough textured wood or lath into your arbor for the vine to cling to.

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14. Joanne Stevens - April 25, 2009 at 5:39 pm

    We have a climbing hydrangia that is seven years old – and has never bloomed. We were told to cut it way back at the end of each season. Its on the north side of the house and we were considering digging it up and planting it on the south – where it would get sun. Is that wise??

    Hi Joanne
    Climbing hydrangeas are slow to bloom. It can take 8-10 years to start blooming. Not enough sun could be the cause of no flowers so planting it in more sun may help although southern exposure may be too much sun. Dappled shade from a tree would help. Before moving it, cut it back to make it more manageable. This should be done in spring before it starts to grow vigorously. Pruning the vine is usually done after bloom. Be sure that the plant gets plenty of water in summer. If you are in the southern part of the country climbing hydrangia will require more shade and consistant moisture during the hot summer.

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15. Joanne Stevens - April 25, 2009 at 5:41 pm

    Will moving the climbing hydrangia “kill” it at this age of 7 years?

    Hi Joanne
    Moving it shouldn’t kill the 7 year old plant but it will set it back perhaps for a year or two (meaning no flowers). Try to get as much of the rootball as possible. It’s best to transplant when the plant is dormant-late winter/early spring.

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16. Laura Providenti - April 29, 2009 at 9:29 am

    I am considering a climbing hydrangea for a difficult shady spot that receives morning sun, but I’m worried about the roots damaging the brick wall of the house. Can you talk a bit about the effect the climbing hydrangea has upon brick walls?

    Hi Laura
    Climbing hydrangea is a vigorous climber, it will develop tenacious aerial roots that “cement” themselves to brick which can be a problem when removing the vine. The residue left by the aerial roots is difficult to remove.

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17. Jacqui O’Rourke - May 23, 2009 at 12:25 am

    Climb up a tree
    I have a climbing hydrangea waiting to be planted. I have lots of new trellis to fill but also have a cherry tree in one corner and am wondering whether it would be a good idea to train the hydrangea up the cherry tree? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks

    Hi Jacqui
    Climbing hydrangea should not harm your cherry tree, provided it is large enough to support the vine when it gets older. Because it attaches itself with root-like tendrils, it will not choke the tree. It will climb up the tree nicely. The vine may compete with the tree for nutrients and moisture in the soil.

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18. anne henry - May 25, 2009 at 5:36 pm

    recently purchased climbing hydrangea, although concerned at the plants appearance at time of purchase I bought anyway. Plant seems very “leggy” with yellowing leaves, and numerous flowers (which I assume is good). What can I do to revive or care for this sad looking plant??
    Thank you

    Hi Anne
    Leggy and yellowing leaves indicate not enough light and perhaps lacking nutirents/insects/watering. Plantthe climbing hydrangea in well-drained soil, maintain even moisture (2″ mulch around the plant). Once you see new growth give it 1/2 dose of fertilizer- check fertilizer rates on the package. Less is more in young plants. Don’t feed after Aug.1.

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19. Karla (Edmonds, WA) - June 17, 2009 at 8:58 am

    I am in the process of removing a Wisteria that has, unfortunately, damaged my front porch to the point of needing replacement. It has grown onto the roof of my two-story home, and up into the eaves and siding, damaging the boards. Two beautiful rose vines, one pink, one red, have grown up through it, creating a beautiful display. I am trying to save the roses as I remove the Wisteria.

    I purchased a Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea Anomala Petiolaris) that I wanted to plant in place of the Wisteria. I understand, from my research and reading the posts here, that the Climbing Hydrangea will attach to the wood siding of my home.

    My First Question—will it have the same tendencies as the Wisteria, namely, to develop thick, woody stems that will creep under my siding, lifting and destroying the structure, or will it have a less “invasive” vine that “sticks” just to the outside of the wood.

    My Second Question—Would it be wiser to construct a wood trellis a foot away from the house upon which the Climbing Hydrangea could grow? Thank you for your time and help.–K

    Hi Karla
    Climbing hydrangea attaches itself with aereal roots to cement themselves to the surface. It should be less invasive but will leave marks on the siding should you decide to remove it. It will develop a thick stem with cinnamon exfoliating bark that it is famous for. You will have to provide a sturdy support for the vine.
    I think the woody trellis is a good idea. Make sure it is high enough. as they mature, can get up to 70 ft tall.

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20. Janet McCaffrey - June 20, 2009 at 10:10 am

    I planted several climbing hydrangeas on a 6 ft high wooden fence and they have spread quite a bit and I’m now concerned about their weight on the fence. Any easy way of removing them?

    Hi Janet
    If you want to remove a whole vine, cut it at the soil line and that will kill the vine. You can also cut back the vine by 1/3 to alleviate the weight problem.

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21. Laurie - July 12, 2009 at 1:25 pm

    Remove root markings
    I bought my house two years ago and it had a beautiful climbing hydrangia on one portion of the front of the house. It started growing too tall reaching the roof line so I had to cut off about 3 feet of the plant to keep in under control. The problem is I am now left with the aerial roots on the siding and the brick. Are there any tricks to getting the root marks off of the house?

    Hi Laurie
    The root residue is very difficult to remove. That is the drawback of growing certain vines on brick buildings. You can try a wire brush, scraper, or power wash it off. It may be a slow, painstaking process. Good luck.

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22. Dan - July 17, 2009 at 2:01 pm

    Will the vines live on treated lumber?

    Good question. I don’t know. Maybe someone out there has had experience with this. I don’t think it will affect the vine.
    The vine should climb very well on the treated lumber.

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23. Toronto - July 20, 2009 at 10:32 am

    I recently planted 2 Japanese climbing hydrangeas and in preparation for the upcoming snowy winter, I wanted to know how I winterize it to protect it from the extreme cold and snow. Does anyone know?

    HI
    I’m presuming that you are referring to a climbing hydrangea H. anomola (petiolaris). They are hardy in temperatures to -20 F. I’m not sure how cold it gets in Toronto. You may not have to do anything to winterize it but give it 2-3 inches of mulch around the roots.

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24. mark - August 9, 2009 at 9:54 am

    I am about to plany a climbing hydrangea next to our shed. I attached a trellis to the shed. My question is about the roots of the climbing hydrangea. My question is about their roots. I was only able to dig about a foot and a half before hitting a a lot of big rocks which so far I have been able unable to remove. I am thinking of raising the level by adding about a foot of dirt, which would give them about 2 1/2 feet of dirt. How deep do the roots of the climbing hydrangea need to go? if they encounter some rocks will they adapt and be able to go around them underground?
    Thanks

    HI Mark
    I’m not sure how deep climbing hydrangea roots go but 2-2/2 ft. should be plenty. The hole should be twice the size of the pot and as deep as the pot.Water in well and place 2-3 inches around the plant to retain even moisture. The roots can adapt and go around some obstacles like rocks.

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25. Nancy - September 10, 2009 at 6:24 am

    Rust on hydrangea vine
    In the early spring, I planted two healthy climbing hydrangia on a metal arbor. They were doing really well until about a month ago. The leaves started to get rusty looking spots on the bottom and are now turning yellow and beginning to fall off. There is still new growth appearing. I am worred that something may be killing my plants. What could be causing this?

    Hi Nancy
    There is a rust caused by a fungus that attacks hydrangea close to the end of the growing season. It may be weather related and rarely kills the plants. Be sure to water your plants before winter so tht they are well established before the soil freezes. As long as there are healthy buds on your vine, it should be ok.

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26. Leandra - November 8, 2009 at 7:18 am

    Fall leaf drop and pruning
    Hello, I have 3 very healthy climbing Hydrangia, and they are now, at least 6 years old. They all bloombed well this summer. Now after a good frost, in the 20F’s the other night, all three look like they are dying back. Do they do this in the winter? And should I cut back, or leave alone? They have already been pruned a little after flowering? I don’t want to loose these plants, so I will wait to hear from you!!! Thank you so much!

    Hi Leandra
    It is normal for Hydrangea will drop their leaves once exposed to freezing temperatures. When the vine is old enough, you will see the beautiful exfoliating bark that climbing hydrangea is famous for. They are going dormant but should return next spring when the weather warms up.
    You don’t need to prune it, unless your climbing hydrangea is out of control. Trimming after bloom is a great way to shape the vine. Any additional pruning can be done in mid-winter when the vine is dormant.

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27. Sunshine - November 22, 2009 at 9:18 pm

    Planting climbing hydrangea
    Is it too late in the season to plan a climbing hydrangea? I live in northwest Washington State. We haven’t had our first frost yet, but I am sure it will be coming in the next couple of weeks.

    Hi Sunshine
    As long as the ground isn’t frozen and workable plant your hydrangea as soon as possible and add a few inches around the plant staying away from the main stem. Once a frost occurs, add a few more inches to insulate the roots.

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28. Beth - March 17, 2010 at 8:41 am

    Train the vine
    We just moved into our home last fall and have inherited new gardens & plants. Two climbing hydrangeas in front of house are not attached to anything, but are spread along the ground in a stiff tangled sprawl about 3 feet wide. The plants (now dormant) look healthy, about 18″ high, with long, strong branches covered in buds.
    The house has metal siding, perhaps too slick for the hydrangea vines to attach. Reading your comments above, it sounds like I should install a wooden trellis along the wall so the vines can attach.
    How should I train the stiff & tangled woody vines up the trellis since they do not “wind”?

    Hi Beth
    Climbing hydrangea develop aerial roots that “cement†themselves to bark, brick, wood, vinyl siding over time. It sounds as if your plant has been trained to grow as a ground cover. If the stems are stiff, it may be difficult to “bend” them (without breaking) so that they climb up a building. You can try to encourage the new growth which will be more pliable to grow up the building. A trellis will help secure it in the right area until the vine attaches itself to the building. Be aware that once it is attached to a building and you decide to remove the vine, the residue left by the aerial roots will be difficult to remove.

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29. SJ - March 29, 2010 at 1:29 pm

    Can I have both a climbing hydrangea and climbing jasmine in the same trellis in our patio? Will the hydrangea eventually take over and kill the jasmine or vice versa?

    Hi SJ
    I’m not sure which vine will win the battle. Climbing hydrangea has a slower growth rate than jasmine.

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30. Barb - April 2, 2010 at 6:15 pm

    Pruning old hydrangea
    Hi
    We moved to a home that has some very well established climbing hydrangeas growing up one wall. I love them however they have gotten quite busy and don’t seem to be attached very well to the brick any longer.
    I don’t know how old they are but the base of them are the size of my arm. Any ideas on how I get them to keep growing up rather than bushing up?
    And would pruning them to be less bushy work without harming them?

    Thanks
    Barb

    Hi Barb
    Climbing hydrangea will produce aerial roots which should attach themselves to a brick surface. To prune, remove some of the old stems to promote new growth and encourage the stems to climb up the wall. Pruning should be done right after blooming so you’ll have flowers next season..

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31. linda miller - April 4, 2010 at 1:02 pm

    blooms come out but the individual flowerets on each bloom do not open.they look more like queen annes lace
    they are at least 25 years old on a trellace fence surrounding a lower garden on all 4 sides with a pergola entrance
    should they be composted and/or fertilized

    Hi Linda
    Try fertilizing them might help.

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32. lila - May 1, 2010 at 7:25 pm

    Purchased and planted two climbing hydrangeas (about one to two feet tall and skinny)last summer. Planted on either side of iron arched arbor. I did prune it last year and covered with mulch which I’ve read isn’t what should have been done. However we had an unusual cold winter in mid-east Alabama and maybe glad I did. One side is coming back strong other isn’t. (Arch gets some morning sun, but mostly in shade (lake is three feet away.) Soil isn’t the best, so what can I add to make this vine grow more rapidly and produce blooms? Should I water often? I’m anxious for blooms and will not prune for winter as advised? Next summer will be their third year. Will they grow well on this iron arbor? And please answer other questions. Thanks, Lila

    Hi Lila
    You should not prune it in the juvenile stage. It likes rich well drained soil. Mulch around the plant with some compost or cottom burr to amend and add nutrients to the soil. You can also feed it a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) this spring to get it going. It is a slow grower in the first few years. The vine blooms on old wood and can take up to 6-10 years to start blooming. As long as your arc has a rough surface such as wood, it will have no problem climbing. The aerial roots on climbing hydrangea need something rough to cling to.

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33. Kitty T. - May 8, 2010 at 2:18 pm

    Oh Shoot, I Just spent $70 buckeroos on a climbing hydrangea that’s about 42″ tall for a sturdy vinyl arbor. Will it not grow on a vinyl arbor???
    If not, (and they won’t let me return it) what may I do to help it adhere to the vinyl?
    Wish I cam across this posting sooner. It’s filled with great information and I’m afraid after reading it, I already know the unfortunate answer, but hey, if you have any tricks, I’m all ears!
    Thanks!

    Hi Kitty
    Try securing the vine by tying it to the vinyl arbor and as the vine continues to grow weave it into the arbor.

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34. Susan (Toronto, ON) - May 9, 2010 at 4:10 am

    I have a climbing hydrangea which is about 15 years old (facing north) and three vines about 7 years old which face south-east. This year the older vine has only partially leafed out. There are large areas of the vine which show leaf buds where you can see green tips, but they appear to be dead. The three younger vines are in bloom. Any ideas what would have caused this? Our winter had very little snow and spring has had wild temperature fluctuations.

    Hi Susan
    It’s difficult to say what happened to your climbing hydrangea. The older vine may have been in a weakened stage and when it started to bud, perhaps freezing temperatures could have damaged the buds.

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35. Dianne Oelberger - May 16, 2010 at 4:10 am

    Pale leaves
    My climbing hydrangea is healthy, 3 yrs old and blooming. I heavily compost it each spring. My concern is that the leaves are a nice shiny but PALE green. Does it need anything else?
    thank you

    Hi Dianne
    New leaves can be pale green but if they mature pale green, they may need a dose of acid fertilizer. They may not be getting enough or the right nutrients provided in the compost. Climbing hydrangea grow best in acidic soi and pale leaves can indicate that the ph of the soil needs to be lowered.

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36. Beth Menzie - May 22, 2010 at 7:22 am

    Sun exposure
    I planted at climbing hydrangea 3 years ago, and it is growing slowly but well. The only problem is that it is facing west and the leaves are turning brown, apparently from sun damage. Should I (and can I?) move it?

    Hi Beth
    Yes, too much sun will scorch the leaves. Make sure you give it plenty of water when the weather is hot. You can move your climbing hydrangea but wait until the fall, when finished blooming or early spring when it is dormant, before it leafs out. North or east exposure is best especially in hot southern climates.

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37. Christine - May 22, 2010 at 8:45 am

    Growing from seed
    Thank you so very much for all of this WONDERFUL information! I live in Puyallup Washington. My questions is, I read somewhere on here that the “Climbing Hydrangea” produced a seed. Where is this seed at, and exactly how do you care for it and when can you re-plant it? I would LOVE to utilize them. I have the most AMAZING Climbing Hydrangea’s that my family and neighors just love! I would love to give them seeds to grow for their own if this is possible!

    Thanks again so very much for all your help! This is such a great site!

    Hi Christine
    The seed is inside the flower and should be collected when ripe about 2-3 months after flowering. Place dry seeds in plastic bag or paper bag and store in the frig for 2 mo. at 40F. Sow seeds in starter medium and keep soil moist @ 70F. Should sprout in 10-14 days.

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38. Christine - May 22, 2010 at 8:46 am

    I also forgot to ask. I am having my house painted next weeks and have to trim mine back. Where would be the VERY BEST place to trim?
    I REALLY HATE having to do this!

    Trim from the top of the vine and lateral stems to make it manageable. You may be surprised to see how well the vine sticks to your house and the residue may be difficult to remove. Pruning before bloom will of course remove the flowers.

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39. Tami - June 6, 2010 at 3:31 am

    Browning flowers
    I have climbing hydrangeas on a fence in my backyard. They now cover both sides and are very full/healthy looking. They are about 5-6 years old. They have started to flower but they only seem to go half way. They form what looks like the beginning of the flower, lots of tiny buds, but they seem to then just turn brown. Only a few seem to open, and I mean literally a handful out of all of them. They are in full sun, I love in the Northeast. I haven’t pruned them at all in 5 years. Should I be giving them any type of fertilizer or pruning? If all those flowers turned white it would be so beautiful!

    Hi Tami
    It is also possible that the vine is in too much sun and the flowers are getting “fried”. Make sure your climbing hydrangea gets enough water during bloom time so that enough moisture can be transported to the flowers.

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40. John - June 10, 2010 at 12:29 pm

    I have a climbing hydrangea that is in it’s 3rd season. Planted it in the Spring on a north-facing wall of my two-story stucco house, which is basically in total shade. The plant has done well and has attached and grown up the side of the stucco to about 14 feet already (all from one pot!). However, the leaves now around the bottom third are falling off. The leaves at the top 2/3 are fine and healthy. I have noticed some (but not a lot) of small brown spots and brown edges on some of the leaves that are still on the vine. Wondering if I have a fungus, too much water, too little water, etc…Have never fertilized.

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41. Chris M - June 19, 2010 at 10:10 am

    Hi, I have a climbing Hydrangea and I think it’s 3-4 years old. As expected, its been a slow grower but this year (now mid-June), I haven’t got even any green leaves on it. The bark looks like it’s partially exfoliating, so I’m thinking it’s not dead? We’ve had some warm spells although it was a very cold winter.
    It’s in a pot but doesn’t seem to have outgrown it.
    Is it dead? Does it just need fertilizing?
    Thanks

    Hi Chris
    Your climbing hydrangea should have budded out by now. My guess is that it is dead. Being in a container, it is possible that the roots froze over the cold winter.

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42. Kevin - June 20, 2010 at 4:47 pm

    All over my climbing hydrangea leaves are turning yellow and falling off. Also, a number of leaves have raised white powdery spots. I don’t want to lose the vine…it’s going on it’s fourth year and I’m still waiting for it to flower for the first time! Thanks for you help.

    Hi kevin
    What kind of soil is it in? Is there soil wet? Where is it planted?- North exposure.

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43. Kit - June 30, 2010 at 12:29 pm

    Our newly planted (last fall) climbing hydrangeas are doing well. Even bloomed a bit already. We are using them to climb a two wooden screens built as privacy structures.
    I’ve noticed that they are not only growing up the screens but sending out runners along the ground. Should we/can we trim the ground runners to keep the growth up?

    Hi Kit
    You can trim the ground runner if you want to keep the vine slender. It won’t hurt the vine.

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44. m14s4k - July 1, 2010 at 3:31 am

    I have a climbing hydrangea that is beautifully established on a fence. the neighbours are about to change the fence. Is there anything i can do to save the hydrangea?

    Hi
    Pull back as much of the vine as u can and lay it on the ground until the new fence is replaced. Once the fence is in place gently lean it back toward the fence. The vine may incurr some damage during the process and may have to be pruned back for easier handling. You can cut it back by 1/3-1/2. Remember, the more you cut back the less flowers you will have. If the roots are established and healthy, it should recover by next year.

    Reply
45. soh - July 7, 2010 at 1:14 pm

    climbing hyrangea from seed
    Hi! I ordered some climbing hydrangea seeds, which arrived too late to be considered for planting in the spring. Should I plant them next spring or can I plant them in the fall? Since the plant takes so long to establish, I would like to get them in the ground as soon as possible, but fall planting doesn’t suit every plant, and this is the first time I’ve tried to grow hydrangea from seed.

    Thanks for any tips you can give me on growing these plants from seed! I have an ugly deck area in the north corner of the house, which I’m hoping will be hidden and somewhat buffered by the climbing hydrangea in a few years.
    Canadian gardening zone 5a, just north of Toronto. Last frost is mid to late May, first killing frost would be October, I think.

    Hi Soh
    The seeds need to be stratified, placed in cold storage @40 degrees for 2-3 mo. I don’t know if yours were. You can sow the seeds in starter medium and keep soil moist @ 70F. Should sprout in 10-14 days. Protect the seedlings during the winter from extreme cold. The other option is to plant the outdoors in the fall, the seed will lie dormant and should sprout in the spring.

    Reply
46. Robert Thompson - July 10, 2010 at 5:42 am

    I have two established climbing hydrangeas which are growing on a trellis on the north side of my house. They are about 10 years old and until now had been thriving nicely. One of the two continues to do so, but the second one appears to have smaller shriveled leaves, some of which are dropping in early July. I see no apparent pests and the problem seems to cover the entire plant. Can you help me diagnose what the problem(s) might be and what steps I might take to alleviate the problem(s)?

    Hi Robert
    It sounds like a cultural problem that is affecting the roots. Are both plants next to each other? Is the soil wetter in one area than the other?

    Reply
    1. Robert Thompson - July 11, 2010 at 6:59 am

       Both plants are rooted about 10-12 feet apart on either side of a north facing patio. The wetness might be higher on the sick plant’s side due to proximity to a stone wall. However, its been fairly dry for the past few weeks. Both plants had bloomed this season and I have only noticed the problem a week ago or so. Can you explain what you mean by “cultural problem”?

       Hi Robert
       By cultural problems, I’m referring to non-disease or insect causing problems but to growing conditons of the plant such as too much sun, water, etc. Your sickly hydrangea may be getting too much water accumulation from run off which can eventually lead to root problems. Is there any possibility that there was some type of chemical spraying done around the area?

       Reply
       1. Robert Thompson - July 12, 2010 at 2:17 pm

          The only chemical introduced in the vicinity of the plant recently was some house painting about six to eight feet away from the plants. Both plants were near the painted wall. Otherwise, I can’t think of any chemical that might have been introduced. If this is the problem, what can I do to alleviate it?

          Reply
47. james - July 15, 2010 at 9:53 am

    Vine weevil
    I have a climbing hydrangea on the north side of my house -planted two years ago. Problem is every year the leaves are eaten. Not complete defoliation but little bits eaten around the edges. Despite this the plant looks pretty good and puts on growth every year. I think the problem is weevils; I’ve seen them on the plant at night. This spring I applied beneficial nematodes which I hoped would kill off the weevils. Unfortunately the leaves are still being eaten. Help. Any suggestions? Anyone else dealing with eaten leaves on their hydrangeas?

    Hi James
    Vine weevils will feed on climbing hydrangea that make C-shaped cuts along the margins of the leaves. They feed at night which makes them difficult to detect. The root feeding larvae cause more damage than the adult. Nematodes should help with the larvae when certain conditions are met. Try Orthene on the adults. For more info..http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/blackvineweevil.html

    Reply
48. Lena - August 23, 2010 at 7:52 am

    Climbing hydrangea on vinyl siding
    Hi! Would climbing hydrangea do well on vinyl siding? Would love to put a couple of plants on the bare side of the house, but not sure if I’d be setting it up for failure?

    If this is not a good choice, is there a climber that you could recommend that would be able to climb vinyl siding without putting any supports up?
    Thank you!

    Hi Lena
    Yes, climbing hydrangea will grow up on your vinyl siding w/o supports. It will develop tenacious aerial roots that cement themselves to vinyl siding which can be a problem when removing the vine. The residue left by the aerial roots is difficult to remove.

    Reply
49. Deborah - September 18, 2010 at 6:04 am

    Will the climbing hydrangea damage my wood house. Someone told me it would damage the wood and create future problems like water damage. I planned on planting it on the north side of the house where there is a lot of room for it to grow. Thank you

    Hi Deborah
    Climbing hydrangea will develop tenacious aerial roots that cement themselves to bark, brick, wood, vinyl siding which can be a problem when removing the vine. The residue left by the aerial roots is difficult to remove. I haven’t heard about water problems. You can attach a heavy duty trellis for it to climb on.

    Reply
50. sharan - October 11, 2010 at 8:51 am

    i bought a climbing hydrangea last feb, it hasn’t grown height/width wise, but has a zillion shooters at the bottom. someone told me to cut off all the shooters as that may be the reason the energy is not going up? what would you do?

    Hi Sharan
    Climbing hydrangea are slow to climb until they get established, then it will grow fast and climb. I would leave the shooters for now and see what happens next year.

    Reply
51. Christy - April 27, 2011 at 7:13 pm

    Propagate from cuttings
    We just moved a massive petiolaris to a new location as we’re having a house addition, and I think we took good care and it will heel in okay. I’ve given it plenty of water and we tied the vines gently and they’re supported against an arbour we have in the island bed. I had some leftover prunings from it, and wonder if they will root in water?

    Thank you very much.
    Christy

    Hi Christy
    I have not tried rooting in water. Here’s the usual method used.
    Get cuttings with 2-3 pairs of leaves, remove one set of lower leaves and root in a sandy soil in the shade. see http://hortchat.com/info/propagate-hydrangea-from-cuttings

    Reply
52. Diane Raimondo - April 30, 2011 at 7:38 pm

    Hello, I have a 10 year old climbing hydrangea facing East getting morning sun. We had a very heavy winter in NYC so I was very happy to see the buds appearing a few weeks ago. The problem is is has been a cold & very rainy spring and now only 1/3 of the plant has leafed out. The other 2/3 has sparse random green extremely wilted leaves, some of them dark green. The flower buds are there on the tips looking ok but the leaves are just hanging their heads down. I love this plant with its twisted peeling furry trunk and wonder what is happening? I pinched off the wilted, leaves and some new leaves are beginning to grow but it is not the plant is used to be in previous years. I have Jackmani clematis next to it which is doing fine as well as regular blue hydrangeas, fine too. They have all been together for all of these years. What can I do to assist in its leaf recovery? Will the leaves come back? Am I being impatient now that it is only April 30? Thanks for any advice.

    Hi Diane
    Due to the cold rainy season, I think you need to give your climbing hydrangea more time to develop. Perhaps a unusual cold spell caused the leaves to wilt especially when they begin to open (unfurl). The best thing you can do at this time is to fertilize or add compost around the base of the plant with a balanced fertilizer to encourage healthy growth.

    Reply
53. Linda Treshansky - May 4, 2011 at 1:46 pm

    I bought a climbing hydrangea at the end of last summer during a horrific heat spell. Tried to keep it watered, however the heat was so extreme that it threw many of my plants into an early dormancy. We then had an extreme winter and though the lower part of the plant is leafing the upper part is not. should I wait til fall to prune it back? I will fertilize and water it today. It is planted in dappled shade but gets some east sun in the a.m. The root shoots died off so I pruned them…Could it survive. The leafing part is about 3 feet tall…

    Hi Linda
    The first year is always the toughest for any plant. Prune back any dead parts of the vine. It sounds like you’re doing everything right. Hopefully your plant will establish itself this season. Put some mulch around the base of the vine to keep the soil evenly moist and cool during the summer. In the fall, add 2-3 ” of mulch to insulate/protect the roots for the winter.

    Reply
54. Cliff Ros - May 13, 2011 at 4:39 pm

    I have a 5 year old climbing hydrangea that is blooming and doing great.
    It’s planted along side a raised deck and this year reached the 6′ high top
    hand rail. It going to need something higher to grow on next year. Can I
    construct a flat arbor type cover over the deck (10’X20′) and let the vine
    cover the deck? I would like to use it to shade the deck if possable. I realized
    that it’s going to require some heavy construction.

    Hi Cliff
    Yes, it should grow on the arbor. Make sure it is sturdy enough to support the vine.

    Reply
55. Heather - May 13, 2011 at 10:51 pm

    About 10 years ago we purchased a climbing hydrangea and planted it at the base of a large ash tree in full light shade. (It was sold as a plant that would grow in full shade.) After 8 years it was just hanging on. Had some leaves and smallish shoots but no real growth.
    Fearing it was in too much competition with the tree, I dug it up and put it in a pot. For two winters I babied it by bringing the pot into the garage that gets cold but not below freezing. This spring the plant is bursting with leaves and new shoots. Time I think to replant. But where? I don’t want it against the house siding and we live in a woods. I can pick a tree that gets more sun. Choices are oak or maple. (We are losing our ash trees in SW Ontario so don’t want to plant there. If by the oak it would get sun from 10am until 2pm and shade thereafter. By the maple it would get a little less sun – 10am to noon perhaps. Another choice would be a flower bed that gets limited morning sun but nothing to climb on.
    What would you do? Thanks.

    Hi Heather
    It sounds like the Oak tree is the best choice for your climbing hydrangea.

    Reply
56. Judy - May 14, 2011 at 9:12 pm

    will climbing hydranga climb up a painted 6×6 post on an arbor? Will the painted surface harm the plant? Thanks

    Hi Judy
    It should climb up your painted arbor. I don’t think the painted surface will harm the plant.

    Reply
57. Jane Becker - May 15, 2011 at 10:42 am

    Can I plant the climbing hydrangea under a pine tree?

    Hi Jane
    Your climbing hydrangea may not get enough sun to bloom or climb under a pine tree. It needs a few hours of sun.

    Reply
58. Robert - May 15, 2011 at 11:56 am

    I have a climbing hydrangea that I planted 3 years ago. I was excited at the beginning of this spring because it really started taking off and having been told it does so after 2 or 3 years, I was really looking forward to seeing it possibly bloom for the first time this year. However, after 3 or 4 weeks of vigorous growth, all of the leaves turned brown. It is growing on a north-facing wall in front of our house. It receives mostly shade with only spotty direct sun mid-day to early afternoon, then it is in shade the rest of the day. It seems to have plenty of moisture. Given that it has grown so well for 2 years, what could have happened all of a sudden? I don’t see any sign of insects. It couldn’t be scorched by the sun. The only thing that I did differently this year than in the past was that I fed it some hydrangea food. It went downhill soon after. Could this have caused the problem??? I had read somewhere that if you cut a vine and it was still green inside (and mine is), there is still hope to save it. Any suggestions on how to possible save and revive it?

    Hi Robert
    What about the weather? Have you had any colder temps?

    Reply
59. Ashley - May 16, 2011 at 8:00 pm

    I just bought a climbing hydrangea. I am wanting it to climb up the front of my house where the all brick chimney is. My concern is, will it grow onto the roof and out to the side of the house where the brick is not? I know it will be years until i need to worry about that but i dont want it to spread outside of the brick or onto the roof!

    Hi Ashley
    I don’t think the vine will grow on the roof. I may get too hot up there. If it does you can alway trim it back.

    Reply
60. Laurie - May 17, 2011 at 7:08 am

    Aggressive grower
    Climbing hydrangea definately needs sun. I have one that is on the front of my house on the brick and is doing so incredibly well it has completely taken over and every couple of weeks I have to trim it fairly heavily. It’s attempting to climb up to the high peak of roof line of my one-story house. As beautiful as it is I wish it wasn’t on the house, it leaves root marks everywhere it lands, not great for the brick and is a pretty aggressive grower (I don’t feed it or do anything to it other than trim it up often) It will grow in every crevis it has the opportunity so you have to keep a close eye on it to ensure it doesn’t get behind gutter downspouts and similar. Th stalks can also get pretty wide in diamater and it even grew so tight behind the electric meter box I had to saw that part of the hydrangea off. The birds also love making nests in it.

    Reply
    1. Laurie - May 17, 2011 at 7:17 am

       Trimming aggressive grower
       Ashley, see my post i just put up. If I had my choice, I wouldn’t want the hydrangea on the brick, it’s really not good for it because it really digs in and grabs with the roots and it’s really a commitment because it’s hard to get the roots off if you change your mind and pull the plant off. MIne has made it to the roof line then took a b-line across the trim so not sure if it would climb on the roof or not, i don’t give it a chance to even try since i trim it before it gets to that point. You need to ensure you can reach it too since you want it to be in a particular area and if it’s as healthy as mine, you will be trimming it nearly 1-2 / month. It will definately take a b-line to the other side of the wall onto trim as mine has unless again you are always trimming it, it’s a traveler and a grabber!

       Reply
61. Judy Marshak - May 28, 2011 at 9:38 am

    We bought a mature climbing hydrangea last summer, it had bloomed beautifully at the nursery, but was unfortunately left in the pot in our shed all winter. I thought it would have died, but it survived and is growing green and lovely from the bottom, about a 18 inches high. It’s about 3 ft tall and has buds all over the upper vines, but they appear brown and soggy. I think they are dead. Should I prune off all the branches with the dead buds or will new buds appear on them.

    Hi Judy
    The brown soggy buds will die, so you may as well as remove them. The vine should send out new buds in other parts of the plants. Is this plant in full sun? You may have to asses what is causing the brown buds.

    Reply
62. margie - June 3, 2011 at 7:30 am

    Climbing hydrangea not invasive
    My 3-4 year-old climbing hydrangea is finally looking beautiful, covering the ugly stone wall I have to look at. Now the homeowner’s association of my development tells me I have to remove it because it’s invasive. The landscape architect I hired selected this particular vine because it’s not invasive, so which is it? If I have to remove it, could there be an alternative so I could keep it, like removing it from the wall, and then putting a lattice or some sort of support between it and the wall? Help!

    Hi Margie
    I have not known it to be invasive.

    Reply
63. Donna - June 4, 2011 at 9:39 am

    Southeast location
    We love climbing hydrangea and want to place one at our brick wall (2 -story) at the edge of a new garden. It is south and slightly east facing so I am concerned about the sun . . .will it grown in this space? It is in the sunniest space of our yard, but there are a number of large trees that will provide some later afternoon shade.

    Hi Donna
    It may grow well there especially if you have afternoon shade. Make sure it gets plenty of water during the hot summer. In a cooler climate climbing hydrangea will tolerate full sun conversely in warmer climate it will require some shade.

    Reply
64. Susan - June 9, 2011 at 7:56 am

    Lacecap blooms
    I have had my climbing hydranga for years. The flowers only open on the outer edge, can you suggest anything I can do to get full blooms on the plant?
    thanks

    Hi Susan
    The flower on a climbing hydrangea is a lacecap type. The flower is flat and looks like a cap. Lacecaps have open blooms on the outside with smaller “bud-like” flowers on the inside.

    Reply
65. Victoria - July 7, 2011 at 8:44 am

    How much shade can climbing hydrangas tolerate? When the trees leaf in it gets very little sun in the location I had picked out for them.

    Hi Victoria
    A North or East side of a building is preferred. They need a minimum of 3-4 hours of sun to bloom which is partial shade. In hotter climates they tolerate more shade.

    Reply
66. Doug - August 14, 2011 at 1:31 pm

    I’m looking for a vine for a trellis on the side of a garage. Maybe a half-day of sun. Everyone likes climbing hydrangeas. However …

    1) It’s a small garage. One trellis is 5′ wide by 7′ tall. There’s a window in the side of the garage. Then another trellis 3×7. Would a climbing hydrangea be too big?

    2) In the bed fronting the vines will be a couple Viburnum nudum Winterthur. Would the plants complement each other?

    3) It’s mid-August (southern New Hampshire). It is too late to plant?
    Thanks.

    Hi Doug
    Climbing hydrangea can get up to 50-70 feet tall and 30-40 ft wide can get pretty heavy.
    Trumpet vine, honeysuckle vine, Sweet Autumn clematis and Porcelain vine would also work.
    Fall is a great time to plant.

    Reply
67. Susan Curry - September 10, 2011 at 8:00 pm

    Dieback
    I have a climbing hydrangea about 20 years old climbing a stucco wall. It gets afternoon shade and morning sun. In the last few years large sections have died whereas before it was very vigorous. Nothing has changed. It still flowers and has for years. Are there any pests or diseases that would cause dieback?
    Thanks!!

    Hi Susan
    It’s difficult to say what is causing the dieback. As the vines grow older, they can become weakened and more susceptible to disease. It can get a root rot from poorly drained soil. Also extreme cold exposure as well as extreme heat can cause dieback. Climbing hydrangea can get rust, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease and gray mold. Best thing you can do is fertilize in the spring and make sure the vine get enough moisture during a hot spell.

    Reply
68. Jamie - September 21, 2011 at 5:56 am

    Hi,
    I planted a climbing hydrangea this summer along a brick wall… the soil is clay and the hydrangea gets little to no sunlight. I was told this was one of the only climbing vines that would survive in these conditions. However recently the leaves have started turning brown around the edges and then falling off. The middle of the plant is completely bare. HELP how can I save this plant?

    Hi Jamie
    Move it. Climbing hydrangea need rich, moist, well-drained soil. It can grow in part sun and shade. Too much shade will affect bloom. A North or East side of a building is preferred. In hotter climates it needs more shade and moisture. Unless you amend the soil, it will always struggle in poor soil conditions.

    Reply
69. Amber - December 28, 2011 at 9:29 am

    I want to get a climbing hydrangia for the west side of my house. I live in Okla in zone 7. It will get morning sun only. My question is: I live in a mobile home with vinyl siding and a brick bottom. I don’t intend to move the plant so i’m not concerned with staining i am wondering about it moving under the siding and pulling it away from the house and causing structural damage. Can anyone help me.

    Hi Amber
    If you plant it on the West side of the house, it will get afternoon sun. Morning sun occurs in an eastern exposure. If the siding is intact and tight, then the vine should not grow under it. The vine will grow naturally toward light so that it can produce food and continue to grow. Once it is established which will take several years, and grows more aggressively, you can alway trim it to control its growth.

    Reply
70. jacki - April 3, 2012 at 9:05 am

    Climbing hydrangea is VERY invasive. It’s literally growing in my basement through the concrete.

    Reply
71. Sara - April 9, 2012 at 7:54 pm

    Do you know if a Moonlight Climbing Hydrangea can be trained to grow on a chain link fence? Do you know what the big difference between the two are?

    Hi Sara
    Schizophragma hydrangeoides, Japanese hydrangea vine is a moomlight climbing hydrangea. Plant and culture is very similar to Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala). Moonlight hydrangea is hardy zone 5-8 has cream flowers and blooms in summer. It likes fertilze moist soil. Climbing hydrangea. is zone 4-7, has white flowers, cinnamon exfoliating bark (when mature) likes moist well drained soil. Blooms in spring/summer. Both look similar and are often confused as the other. Both like shade to part shade exposure. It can be trained to climb on a chain link fence.

    Reply
72. Peggy Maxwell - April 27, 2012 at 8:41 pm

    Our 50 year old climbing hydrangea blew over in strong winds. The root, approximately 4.5 inches in diameter, was somewhat fractured. We repositioned the plant but notice the leaves limp, although green. When we water it, it looks a little better, but I’m concerned. Any suggestions…it’s been about a week.

    Hi Peggy
    It sounds as if there was some stem damage and the plant needs time to repair itself. If the leaves turn brown, chances are that the stem was broken and won’t recover.

    Reply
73. Graham - April 28, 2012 at 3:35 am

    Hi,

    I have a new house with southern exposure with a board and batten type vinyl siding. The siding is warping a bit so am looking to cover this. I was thinking of growing some boston ivy up the house but love the look of the climbing hydrangea. I have been looking at a firefly climbing hydrangea (hydrangea a. petiolaris). On the Vesey’s site it says full sun to part shade. Do you think the hydrangea would tolerate southern exposure on vinyl or should i go with the ivy?
    Thanks

    Hi Graham
    Climbing hydrangea by reputation is the prettier climber. It might have a hard time clinging to vinyl. A rough surface works better. It does not some afternoon shade especially in warmer climates. It could tolerate full sun in cooler climates
    Boston ivy is a tough fast growing vine and will tolerate either.

    Reply
    1. Peggy Maxwell - May 1, 2012 at 5:41 pm

       Thank you! It’s not brown yet….the leaves really perk up with the rain; so we’ll keep our fingers crossed. Glad to hear it can repair itself.

       Reply
    2. Gina - May 3, 2012 at 10:32 am

       I think Susan may be referring to the “lacecap” habit of the flower itself. If you look up lacecap hydrangeas and compare to regular, you’ll see that it’s built that way.

       Thanks Gina!

       Reply
74. Bob Fowke - August 6, 2012 at 2:13 am

    We planted a climbing hydrangea last year. It has grown vigorously last year and this but it is not clinging to the breeze-block wall which we hope it will cover. It is planted in a hole in very rocky soil which I filled with a rich compost to get it going and it gets a huge amount of moisture because below there is what amounts to an underground stream. Would any of these factors be affecting its ability to cling – it produces the advantitious roots but they don’t hold to the wall – at all.
    Thanks for any advice,
    Bob Fowke, Egland

    Hi Bob
    Since it is slow in developing its aerial roots, see if you can find some “clips” to can be attached to the wall to help the vine cling to the wall.

    Reply
75. Rachael - March 30, 2013 at 5:35 am

    Propagate hydrangea by layering
    I have a climbing hydrangea in my back garden which is doing really well. Last year I noticed that the branches/shoots which laid on the soil started putting air roots down into the soil and appeared to act as ground roots so I covered them with soil and gently staked them to the ground to see if they would layer. They have and I have now removed them from the mother plant and put them into pots. My question is how do I care for them now. I know with some plants, to encourage a strong root structure you should allow the pots to dry out before giving more water. I cannot find any reference to this plant and I would hate to lose them after they have done so well. Please any advice would be appreciated. Thank you

    Hi Rachael
    If they are new delicate plants keep them in pots for one season so that you can “baby” them. Transplant them in larger pots if needed. Maintain even soil moisture so that the fibrous roots are not comprimised. Your new plants can also be planted in a protected “nursery” bed with good soil.

    Reply
76. Sal - June 6, 2014 at 5:34 am

    I planted climbing hydrangea last year. CI live in Philadelphia, PA and they get a western exposure. I live on the east side of the street. They a re climbing on the north side of a 5 foot wall and thriving. They have reached the top. The issue is that they are blooming on the ground and not on the wall. What’s the issue?

    Hi Sal
    It may be that they are getting more sun closer to the ground?

    Reply
77. Teri - May 1, 2015 at 7:47 pm

    I planted four climbing hydrangea along the north wall of my two story, metal sided pole barn. Will they climb up or will I need a trellace? I also planted one at my mail box. After reading this I’m wondering if I should relocate it.

    Hi Teri
    Your climbing hydrangea should “cement” itself to the metal wall. The mail box is too low to support it. – yes move it where it can grow.

    Reply
78. Megan - May 9, 2015 at 8:54 am

    Hi, I bought a climbing hydrangea about a month ago. It is roughly 5/6 feet and had bright green buds all over it at time if purchase. I planted it in a pot in the northwest corner up against my house.it receives very little morning sun. My problem is that only the bottom 1/3 of the plant looks alive. The bottom has dark green leaves everywhere, but the middle and the top are dying or drying out. I keep the soil moist so I’m not sure what caused this. Should I trim each vine back now(middle of May in central california) ? If I trim it back it will only be about 2 feet…

    Reply
79. James - June 23, 2015 at 2:08 am

    I have a climbing hydrangea I’ve been growing in a very large 100L planter for several years. It has flowered the last 2-3 years though it hasn’t grown much in size. Also once the initial flowers come out I get the sterile flower ring and a whole lot of the inner wispy fertile flower buds which are very light and airy. However after a week or so, these all appear to dry out and fall off like rain and leaves the flowers with just the outer sterile ring and without much structure, so they droop a bit and don’t look very impressive. What am I doing wrong to a) not have the vine grow much in size and b) for the flowers to drop all their inner buds and not remain full and lush for longer than a week or two?

    It sounds like the hydrangea roots need more room to grow. Being constrained for 2-3 years in a container will give you minimal growth. It needs to go Into a larger container or better yet planted in the ground so that it can really thrive.

    Reply
    1. emily thomas - May 19, 2016 at 5:24 pm

       architect/association probably mean it’s destructive – rather than invasive! strong and heavy and tenacious they worry it could damage the ugly stone wall 🙂

       Reply
80. Diane - April 26, 2017 at 9:39 am

    I have the same issue and trying to figure out how to preserve the beautiful 30 year old hydrangea while replacing my fence. Can this be done? I don’t see a response to this issue

    Reply
81. Linda - May 15, 2017 at 5:46 am

    The lower branches of my climbing hydrangea have been totally eaten by a local groundhog who uses the heavy vines to climb up further and further and eat more and morewill the leaves grow back or do I have to look at it until next year?
    I don’t want to trap the groundhog and have used numerous local remedies like deer repellant and animal repellant went as well as Tabasco on the leaves but he seems to be winning the war!

    Reply
82. john ferry - June 28, 2018 at 2:46 pm

    Can I transplant my climbing hydrangea which is several years old, 5 – 6 feet high, very healthy but never blooms. Almost no sun where it is on a north wall. Probably needs 2 – 4 hours sun a day??.

    Will it survive the transplant?

    Reply
83. Susan - June 21, 2019 at 9:30 pm

    I have/had a beautiful climbing hydrangea, about 4 years old, that was flourishing on a clapboard garage wall, and I was guiding it to arch up over the rounded side door or the garage. No blooms yet, but I was patient. Then, about 2 weeks ago the entire vine went limp. No bugs, no rodents, no leaf damage. Just a totally limp vine, as if someone had cut it at the base. (But no one has.) My only thought is too much water? It’s been quite a damp spring/early summer. But even before all the rain, about half of the new climbing tendrils failed to fully leaf out. Could it just be an internal something, a virus or fungus or something? Is there any hope for it? I’m so sad to see it dying after several years of vigorous growth.

    Reply