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Bearded Iris  ( Iris germanica)

 The tall sturdy flower stem can reach up to twenty eight inches or more. The flowers look like delicate crepe paper and velveteen surrounded by sword like blue green leaves. Its fragrance hints of lilac and candy. This poor man’ s orchid comes in a kaleidoscope colors which is why irises were named after the Greek goddess Iris  goddess of the rainbow. From a historical point of view, the tall bearded iris goes back twenty or more generations from a gene pool of ten species of Old World and Mediterranean iris. The fleur-de-lis design used on the French royal standard was modeled after the iris. Today’s hybrids comprise of approximately two hundred species. They bloom longer and some cultivars bloom twice per season. 

The bearded iris blossom is made up of three upright petals called the standards and three drooping petals called falls. The beard refers to the velvet strip inside the flower.  

Planting
Plant the  rhizomes  in full sun  and well- drained fertile soil.  Avoid clay soil, a wet soil can lead to rot as well as invite other problems such as iris borer.
The best time to plant bearded iris in mid-July through September and in areas with hot summers and mild winters, September/ October. You can also plant them in the spring.  Place the rhizome tops even with the soil surface 12 to 24″ apart with the growing tips pointing outward of the circle or triangle .
Keep the beds clean and  free of weeds. 

Divide and transplant
Iris should be divided every 3-5 years right after bloom in July/Sept. A crowded bed will reduce bloom as well as invite diseases. When digging up and dividing, be carefull not to damage the rhizome and check for soft, soggy spots (bacterial soft rot).

How to divide
Dig under a clump of rhizomes and lift out the whole clump. Wash away the soil and inspect them for any pinholes or soft spots. Remove and discard any diseased rhizomes.   Cut each rhizome with a sharp knife making sure each division has at least a fan of leaves and roots (about 3-4″). Before replanting, cut back the leaves to 1/3 of their full height and replant them the same way they were planted. Spread the roots facing downward into the soil and cover with soil , then press firmly in place making sure your rhizome is at soil level or slightly above. Water in thoroughly. Plant a least 3 rhizomes in a triangle or an alternating row pattern; pointing the fan of leaves away from each other. Plant 18-24 inches apart. Closer planting (10-12″) will fill in quicker but will have to be divided more often. Give or exchange the extra bulbs with your friends or neighbors to enjoy.

After transplanting,  bearded iris need time to establish a root system before freezing weather sets in. Make sure they get enough moisture and after the soil freezes add 3-4 inches of mulch (straw, pine needles, evergreens) to protect the roots from heaving and freezing temperatures. Mulching is also recommended for newly planted rhizomes. Remove the mulch in early Spring.

Buy a:

PRIMROSE- a big splash for a few bucks

Common primrose (Primula vulgaris) also referred to as English primrose belongs to a large family of Primula.  It is sold in mass-market  grocery and big-box stores for a few dollars. These charming winter/spring blooming plants come in a rainbow of colors and are hard to resist. Because they are so cheap, I usually buy several plants and combine them in a basket for a big colorful splash.  When finished blooming, Primrose are considered a  “grow and throw “plant. Once it’s done blooming it is usually thrown out.

The rosette­ shaped plant with wrinkled leaves, produces a cluster of brightly colored flowers with yellow “eyes “in the center.   Some colors such as dark yellow, orange also have a delicate sweet fragrance.

Care  indoors
Keep the plant in bright, indirect sun.  This blooming houseplant will last longer in cooler temperatures (60F).  The soil should be moist (not wet) during bloom.  Avoid overwatering, do not let the plant sit in water, it can cause root rot.  Conversely; do not let the plant dry out.

Plant tip
When selecting a Primrose plan look for blooms that are just beginning to open and avoid yellow bottom leaves.

Outdoor care
Common primrose is an herbaceous perennial that is hardy in zone 5-8. If you managed to save your houseplant until spring, you can plant it outdoors in part shade and slightly moist soil. With a little luck, they should bloom the following spring .  Common primrose  are great in woodland gardens and low growing borders along shaded beds.

Propagation
Divide crowded rosettes every 2-3 years in late spring or after bloom.  Start new plants from seed in spring and fall

Problems
Leaf spot disease and yellowing leaves
spider mites

Hippeastrum spp. better known as Amaryllis is a native plant of South America. This bulb produces a spectacular cluster of flowers accompanied by long strap like leaves.
Even though amaryllis are generally grown during the winter months for the Holiday season, they also do well in the garden if you live in frost-free zones 9 and 10.  Outdoors, they can be planted in the fall in full sun and well drained soil.  Plant  1 ” or 1/3 of the bulb above the soil line and mulch during the winter. It should rebloom year after year in late spring or early summer.

Amaryllis forced for indoor winter blooming. Many bulbs kits are available starting in the fall that have all the necessary items needed. It usually includes pot, potting soil mix and of course the bulb along with instructions on planting or you can purchase bulbs online from several sources. Upon inspecting your bulb make sure that it is free of soft spots and blemishes and at least 2 1/2 inches in diameter. The bigger the bulbs size the better the flower or flowers will be.

Plant the bulb in a pot 1-2 inches larger than the diameter of the bulb. Use a well drained soil mix and place 1/3 to 1/2 of the bulb above the soil line-if planted too deep you will get leaves and no flowers. Water with lukewarm water and keep the soil moist but not saturated. Water when the top inch layer of soil is dry; too much water can cause the bulb to rot. Make sure the pot is well drained. Keep the bulb in a warm room with temperatures of above 60 degrees (70-80 is ideal during root development). If it is too cool in the house, try the top of the refrigerator for additional heat source. Once the bulb begins to sprout, place it in a sunny, warm location. When flowers appear (3-8 weeks after planting) move the plant out of direct sunlight. Be sure to rotate the pot to keep the flower stalk from leaning toward the light. Stake the stalk when necessary.  To extend the life of the flower maintain the temperature around 65 degrees, remove the pollen-bearing stamens inside the flower and cut away off faded blooms.

REBLOOMING AMARYLLIS
When your amaryllis is done blooming you must allow the exhausted bulb to rebuild itself. Cut the finished blooms right below the pod. After all flowers are gone cut off the cylindrical stalk down to several inches above the bulb but not the large strap leaves, let them continue to grow on a sunny windowsill and feed monthly with a balanced houseplant  fertilizer 10-10-10 .  Once the weather warms up, place the plant outside in afternoon shade for the summer. In late summer/early fall bring the pot indoors, gradually reduce watering, allowing it to dry out. Once the foliage is yellow cut it off and place the pot undisturbed in a cool (55-60) room away from any ethylene gas exposure (eg. apples).  Allow the amaryllis to go dormant for 8-10 wks. After dormancy, repot the bulb in  light well drained soil such as a mix of peat and perlite,  water and bring  back into a heated, bright room.

There are many Amaryllis cultivars available from single large to double large and small single flowers as well as assorted colors. It definitely is worth the effort.

CHRISTMAS CACTUS

One of the more popular flowering plants around the holidays is the Schlumbergera bridgesii better known as the Christmas cactus. It offers a profusion of tubular flowers that bloom for two to four weeks around Christmas time.

Originating from Brazil, this jungle cactus is an epiphyte that lives on trees and is different from the desert cactus in that it is the trailing type and does not require direct sunlight.  At times there can be confusion as to which type of Schlumbergera you have.

Christmas cacti have flattened leaves with scallop-edged margins that are smooth and spineless with tubular 3 inch flowers, as opposed to the Thanksgiving cactus (Zygocactus truncates)(S. truncatus) crab cactus, which has sharply toothed edges with two large teeth at the end of the last joint on each branch  and shorter tubular flowers with spreading pointed petals.

 The Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri)  grows more upright, has fibrous hairs at the joints and produces different flowers. It is the more difficult one to grow.  All bloom close to their respective holidays under normal growing conditions.

Christmas cactus care

Not only are these cacti so popular because of their spectacular blooming habit but also because they are relatively easy to care for. They require a rich, well drained soil, bright indirect light and a daytime temperature of 70 degrees and night temperature of 60-65. Feed it with a balanced houseplant fertilizer between April and October. Christmas cactus is not drought tolerant. Water the plants thoroughly and let them dry out between watering. Do not ignore it or kill it with kindness. The leaves will wrinkle if the soil is too dry and when over watered which can lead to root rot. Water less in the winter. Prune the plants in the summer to encourage more branching by pinching off at the joints.

 When the flower buds begin to show, place the plant in bright light and temperatures (60-70F).  The plant will no longer require long nights and cooler temperatures. Once the flower buds are formed, try not to move the plant to a different location as it may cause the buds to drop.  
When in bloom keep the plant moderately moist (not too wet). If the leaves get limp and flabby you may be overwatering the plant. Too much light can fade the flowers. Do not expose them to direct heat, cold drafts. Fertilize lightly with a high potassium fertilizer when the buds form and continue until the flowers fade. When the plant is finished blooming withhold water for 6 weeks allowing it to rest. In early spring, when new growth starts to show, resume feeding and watering.

Reblooming

With a little effort and understanding, one can repeat the flowering process year after year. There are two important factors that encourage bud formation 1. Long nights – Christmas cactus requires at least 14 hours of darkness for 5-6 weeks. 2. Prolonged cool temperatures of 50-55 degrees for 6 weeks. If kept at 55F, some Christmas cacti will bloom regardless of daylength. Bud formation will not happen if temperatures are above 70 degrees. Keep the plant on the dry side until you see buds form, then resume normal watering and light feeding.

Give your Christmas cactus a little love and care and it will flourish for years. Some do so well that they have been known to be passed down in families for generations.

The stem cuttings can be rooted and started as new plants.

Poinsettia care
One of the traditional and most popular holiday flowers is the Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). The delicate, yet dazzling flowers (bracts) range from huge bushes to miniatures plants and come in assorted colors that are sure to make the holiday brighter.
There is nothing more impressive than the classic deep red Poinsettia. On the other hand, snowflake white given the right setting has a most elegant appeal; whereas delicate shades of pink (Monet), mauves (Plum Pudding) burgundy(Cortez, Cranberry Punch)can easily be coordinated to any home decor. Each year more colors and varieties are available to peak our interest. The new Freedom series are known for their vibrant color and large bracts.

When selecting a poinsettia look for dark healthy leaves- no yellowing bottom leaves. The bracts (leaves that work as petals) should be bright and completely colored. The true flowers are the tightly clustered, small, green or red-tipped flowers in the center of the bracts. Yellow pollen will shorten the life of the flowers. Do not choose a plant that is wilted or drooping.

Holiday Plant tip

When purchasing your Poinsettia make sure it is  protected from the cold.  If  temperatures are below 50 degrees,  wrap it in a paper sleeve or place in a box before taking it outdoors.  Tropical Poinsettias are  especially sensitive to cold temperatures and even a few minutes in the cold can damage the plant.  Chill damage may not show up after a few days and you will be dissapointed when the leaves discolor and drop. 

Care
In order to maintain a healthy Poinsettia and longer bloom during the holiday season place the plant in bright diffused light for at least 6 hours a day, away from heating vents (hot dry air) and cold drafts. A temperature of 55-60 degrees at night and 72 during the day along with high humidity is ideal. The cool night temperatures will extend blooming time. Keep the plant evenly moist as moisture fluctuation, cold/hot drafts can cause premature leaf drop. When watering, do not let it stand in water, be sure to slip off the decorative foil cover (if there is one) or punch a hole in the cover to drain the excess water.

Contrary to beliefs, Poinsettias are not toxic. If you have a latex allergy, the sap from the leaves can irrate your skin. According to Poisindex, a 50# child would have to eat 500 bracts to get a stomach ache. Of course resulting reaction may vary with individuals. Poinsettia are not edible and as with all houseplants, should not to be eaten.

Have a safe and happy holiday!!
reblooming poinsettia

Fresh Christmas tree care

Winter care of gladiolus

In areas with deep frost, gladioli need to be lifted from the soil. Dig up the corms before the first frost or when the tops die back. Remove browning foliage and trim it to 1/2 inch of the corm.  Shake off the soil and let the remaining stubs dry for 1-2 weeks in a warm, ventilated area. Once cured, remove dried stubs, discard old corms and cormels (optional).    To prevent rot, dust the large new corms with a fungicide.  Store the corms in a ventilated container such as paper/plastic mesh or cloth bag in a dark, dry, frost free place at 35-45 degrees. Cormels can also be stored and planted the following spring.

You can also drop a mothball in each bag of gladiolus to deter mice and kill overwintering thrips.

HOSTA
Hosta, also known as Plantain lily is a popular shade plant that is grown primarily for its attractive foliage. Hardy in UDSA zones 3-10, this frost-hardy perennial is ideal for border plantings, large containers, and ground covers in shady areas. They also make great companion plants for early blooming bulbs because they hide the dying foliage.
Numerous cultivars range in all sizes from 6 inch tiny dwarfs to large cluster 2½ ft tall.

Care: Young hosta require some pampering but once established, need little care. Plant it at the same soil level as grown in the container, in rich, moist, well drained organic soil with a ph 5.5 to 6.5. It prefers partial shade to shade (2 1/2 hrs. of morning sun and afternoon shade) and needs protection from the hot summer sun. The bluer hostas need more shade to retain a true blue color conversely; the yellow and white leaved variety require more sun to maintain a brighter color. Thicker leaved hosta will tolerate more sun compared to thin leaved variety.

Water: Give them plenty of water; they require at least 1 inch of water per week and more if grown in sandy soil. The larger leaved variety may also need more water.  It’s best to water early in the day.  A dry growing season (drought) will produce a smaller  plant the subsequent year.

Feed: Fertilize in spring to mid summer at 6 week intervals (April, mid-May and July) with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer. Stop feeding after July to allow the plant to harden for the winter.
Hosta bloom in midsummer on tall spikes of lavender, blue, or white tubular flowers that rise above the leaves. Both leaves and flowers can be used in floral design.  When finished blooming, remove the dead stalks. Hosta platanginea (Fragrant Plantain lily) is one hybrid that produces white fragrant flowers that smell like tuberose.

Propagation: It takes 4-8 years for a hosta to reach full size. Propagate by dividing crowded clumps in the spring when new shoots appear. The best time is in the fall after the leaves die back or in August/mid-Sept, 30 days before the first frost. This will give the roots time to establish themselves before winter. Hosta needs to be divided when it develops a the bare circle on the inside of the plant and new growth comes from the outside of the circle.

Hosta can also be started from seed but take 2-3 years to mature and will not come true (except H. ventricosa).

Troubleshooting
Slugs and snails cause large holes in the leaves
Cutworms and black vine weevil will chew on the leaves
Deer will eat the leaves down to the stem; rabbits will eat new emerging shoots.
Scorched leaves- plant needs more shade
Crown rot (Southern blight fungus)-outer leaves wilted and yellowed
Wilted and browning leaf tips-not enough water
*Foliar nematodes-parallel damage between veins is becoming a major problem
*Hosta virus X -Tannish spots on leaf surface, added color to leaves (ink bleed) –  big problem esp. in nursery stock. Plant material can be tested for the virus.