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Welcome to Hortchat.Com, your Horticulture and Gardening Tips website!
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Warmly,
The blossoms on your Easter lily are starting to fade, you look at the plant and wonder “now what”. You don’t need to toss the plant. It can be saved to rebloom again year after year in the garden.
To rebloom your Easter lily
After the last flower has withered, cut it off and allow the plant to continue to grow. It is important to allow the leaves and stems die back so that they can replenish nutrients and energy needed for next year’s growth. When the leaves turn yellow/ brown, cut off the brown stems . You may get new growth starting from the bulb.
When the weather warms up and danger of frost has passed, plant your lily bulb directly into the garden or flower bed. Plant 6-8” deep, in a well-drained, sunny location and water in. Lilies like their “feet in the shade and heads in the sun”. Add about 2″ of mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds away.
It is unlikely that your lily will re-bloom this year but look for it in subsequent years to bloom in June-July.
Fertilize monthly
In spring, when the new shoots emerge start fertilizing with an 8-8-8 or use a slow release fertilizer until you see flower buds. Apply the fertilizer 3 inches away from the stem and water.
Deer love to munch on new emerging shoots and flower buds, so be sure to protect your plants.
Easter lilies grown in the cooler zones such as Northern Illinois are marginally hardy. It is recommended that they be planted 8” deep and heavily mulched over the winter, in case of a hard freeze. It’s worth the effort.
 The new hot rage in mini gardening! Fairy Gardens have come a long way.
Just like miniature doll houses, Fairy gardens take us into a small magical world outside . A diminuitive garden scene lures our imagination to Fairyland. A small cottage nestled among tiny ferns with a walkway that leads us to a gazebo covered with button fern vine. 
 How to grow Stargazer lilies (Oriental) from seed
Collect seeds
Once the flower is ripened and pollinated, it will produce a bulbous seed pod at the base of the flower. When the green seed pod matures and turns tan or brown, clip it off the stem. Bring it indoors and place in a paper bag to dry for a few days. Once dry, the pod will split . Shake the seeds from the pods. Each pod should have several seeds it it.
Seed care
The seeds will be viable for 9-10 months when stored at room temperature. For longer storage keep in them in an air tight container in the freezer.
Sow the seeds fresh (right away) or store them in a paper bag at 41F and sow next spring but germination will be reduced.
Starting the seed
Growing lilies from seed is a long process and requires some patience. Oriental lily (Stargazer) seeds are delayed hypogeal that germinate slowly in two stages.
First stage:
Warm period: place the seeds in a clear plastic bag with spaghnum moss, peat moss , vermiculite or coarse potting soil mixed w/ granite grit or place seeds on a dampened paper towl and place it in a plastic bag. Seal, label and store in a warm spot (60-70F) for 3-4 months at which time seeds will form small bulblets with delicate roots. Germination can take up to 3-4 months depending on the type of lily.
Second stage:
Cool period: Take the bag with the swollen bulblets and place it in the refrigerator (34-40F) for 10-12 weeks. Keep away from fruits and vegetables. Another option is to plant the bulblets in small containers and keep in a cool place (above 32 F to below 50F) for 3 months.
After cooling period, plant tiny bulblets in loose potting soil mix 1/4 inch deep. Place under lights or window or if weather permits (frost free) outdoors in a protected area. The true leaves should show in 1-2 wks.. Water, feed with diluted fertilizer every two weeks. You should get 3-5 leaves the 1st growing season. Keep seedling potted the first season or transplant in the spring to a protected area in the garden. You should have blooms in the 3rd season.
Seeds from a hybrid cross lily will not produce true clones of the parent plant but you can get some interesting new possibilities.
Gladiolus also known as sword lilies are easy to grow, inexpensive and come in wide range of vivid colors. They are a striking addition to borders and flower beds and make great cut flowers for dramatic arrangements. 
How to grow gladiolus
For best bloom plant them in full sun
Gladiolus prefer well-drained, sandy soil, rich in organic material with a ph 6.7-7. Plant gladiolus corms 3 times as deep as they are tall about 4 inches deep and 6-8 inches apart. Taller varieties can be planted deeper for added support. Plant in rows, group or masses. At time of planting add a 5-10-5 fertilizer into the soil for continued bloom.
Best time to plant
In cooler climates plant when all danger of frost is over. You can start a few weeks earlier. Start in early May when soil is workable and then every 2 weeks for continued bloom throughout the summer. Depending on the variety and cultivar, gladiolus bloom 60-120 days from time of planting.
Water
Make sure they get at least 1 inch of water during a dry spell and add 2″ mulch around the plant to help retain soil moisture.
Where to plant
Since glads come in varied sizes, taller varieties which can get up to 4 ft tall should be planted against a fence or wall/ house for support. They may also require staking to keep them from falling over.
Cut flowers
Short or tall gladiolus make great cut flowers. Cut the flower stem when the lower 2-3 florets begin to show color. Use a sharp knife and cut the stem on an angle leaving at least 2-4 leaves. Place the stems vertically in water. They can last up to 2 weeks.
Gladilous can be used as vertical accent in large arrangements. A composite of individual florets are used to make a “glamelia” a bouquet that resembles a large camelia.
Winter care
In colder regions, the corms should be lifted after frost blackens the foliage.
In milder climates zone 7 and up, glads can be left in the ground year round.
The earliest reference to the shamrock was in the 5th century when St. Patrick used the shamrock to explain the Trinity to the Druids. There is no proof of knowing that this really happened, however, the shamrock continued to become a part of Irish legend and history. Today in Ireland, the three-lobed leaf is a symbol of Ireland and is proudly worn as a “good luck” badge on St. Patrick’s day.
The “lucky clover” is not the same as the Shamrock plant sold at the grocery stores around St. Patrick’s day. The word shamrock is derived from Celtic word, “trefoil” (three-leafed), or “little clover”. Trifolium repens is the small white clover that is found in lawns and also used as a green manure cover crop. Irish experts consider this to be the true shamrock. Although, others may argue that the yellow flowered (Trifolium dubium) is the real deal. Both are difficult to grow indoors.
The ones sold in grocery stores referred to as a “shamrock” belong to a large family of Oxalis with over 800 varieties, native to Chile and South Africa. They grow from small corms or tuberous roots which produce delicate, clover-like leaves that are light sensitive and close on cloudy days and at night (nyctinstic movements). The leaves range from a green to purple with flowers that come in a variety of colors; white, cream, yellow, pink, purple and red.
Oxalis regnelli, sold as the shamrock plant, has white flowers and green foliage. Another version, O. triangularis has purple leaves with pinkish to white flowers.
CARE
Indoors – keep in a well-lit location (east or west window) away from hot and cold drafts at temperatures of 60-70F during the day and 55-65F at night. They should be kept barely moist at all times and not allowed to stand in water as that will cause root rot. Fertilize every 2 -4 weeks with a houseplant fertilizer. The plant is relatively pest free and may be planted outdoors when the weather gets warm or kept as a houseplant.
After bloom, if the plant dies back, allow it to go dormant for 1-3 months. The corms should be kept cool and dry. After dormancy, repot and or divide the corms (optional). When signs of new growth emerge, begin to water, fertilize and move to a sunny spot.
Oxalis regnelli and O.triangularis are hardy in zone 6-10. There are hardier varieties that can be grown outdoors as a nice ground cover.
Troubleshooting: Tall & lanky plant – needs more light, too warm (temps over 75)
Yellowing plant – watering too much.
May the luck of the Irish be with you!
Happy St. Patty’s!!
I need to know how to grow and care for a Tillandsia ”air plant” that was just given me. I know nothing about them and am concerned about the floury dusty part on the bottom. It looks to be a natural part of the plant.
Your “air plant” belongs to a group of epiphytes called Tillandsia. Ephiphytes are plants that attach themselves to other plants, trees, rocks and grow without soil. They are part of a large bromeliad family. The white silvery fuzzy appearance is due to trichomes. These specialized velvety organs help bromeliads absorb nutrients and water.
Care
Place the plant in bright indirect light. The green- leafed varieties prefer part-shade.
Fertilize
Feed the plant once a month with a 20-10-20 fertilizer. Use 1 tbs per gallon-follow directions on the label. Make sure the nitrogen in the fertilizer is not urea based as the plant cannot break it down. Use nitrogen that is nitrate or ammoniac based.
Water
Mist regularily and water twice a week in summer by wetting the whole plant and then letting it dry. Water less in winter. Don’t use softened water- too much salt. Rain or tap water is good. Silvery Tillandsia needs less water than the green leafed varieties.
Propagate
Once the mother plant is done blooming, it can produce multiple offsets or pups (baby plants). These can be removed when they are about 1/3 the size of the mother plant or left on the mount. Keep in mind that once a bromeliad blooms it will not bloom again.
Potting/Planting
Tillandsia should not be planted in soil but can be mounted in a piece of driftwood or cork. Wrap the roots and bottom of the plant in sphagnum moss and wire/staple it to the wood or glue it with waterproof glue. They also look great in a decorative stone container.
Aphids (Homoptera Aphididae) also known as plant lice are tiny (1/8″) soft bodied, oval to pear shape insects that come in green, pink, red, brown, black or dusty gray. The woolly apple aphid has a fluffy white cottony coating that closely resembles a mealybug. They congregate in groups and feed on the plant juices of young leaves, succulent tip growth and flower buds causing curling, stunted and distorted leaves. Infested leaves can wilt in bright sunlight and turn yellow/brown. The whole plant can turn pale yellow and stop growing. For infestation, check new growth, stems and underside of the leaves.
Root aphids attack plant roots and display similar symptoms.
Aphids excrete honeydew which attracts ants and is the perfect medium for black, sooty mold fungus. In addition, they can also transmit incurable viral diseases. Most damage occurs when temperatures are 65-80F degrees.
Aphids develop from an egg to adult and also give birth to mature insects that reproduce rapidly.
Each adult aphid can produce 80 offspring within a week. Some mature adults have wings and fly, infecting other plants.
Aphid control:
A strong water spray will wash them off the plant, repeat at least 3 times. Handpicking, by squeezing the bugs between your fingers will help reduce the population. Yellow sticky traps will attract and control aphids.
Homemade sprays such as garlic spray and hot pepper spray will repel the insect.
Garlic spray: Mix 1/2 cup of finely chopped garlic cloves with 1 pint of water, strain and spray.
Hot pepper spray: Mix 1/2 cup of finely chopped or ground hot peppers in 1 pint of water, strain and spray. Use gloves to protect your skin.
If that doesn’t work use insecticidal soap every 3-5 days for two weeks. Do not use insecticidal soap on gardenia. A stronger alternative is pyrethrum/ alcohol spray: combine 1 TBS alcohol to 1 pint of pyrethrum. The solution should have direct contact with the aphids to be effective. Other chemical remedies such as Neem are available. Be sure to follow label directions for safe application on specific plants.
Natural predators such as ladybugs, parasitic wasps, syphrid fly larvae and green lacewing larvae are biological controls that feed on aphids. They reduce the population and can eliminate the need for treatment when present. Aphids are also susceptible to fungal disease in humid weather. Look for reddish or brown, shriveled dead aphids
Grow Gerbera Daisy
Gerbera daisy (Gerbera Jamesonii) also known as African daisy, Barberton Daisy, and Transvaal Daisy originates from South Africa, Madagascar to South American and tropical Asia.
Gerbera daisy is known for its bright vivid colors and large daisy-like flowers that grow on bare stems 10-18 inches tall. It is hardy in zones 9-10 and usually grown as an annual or tender perennial that can be brought inside during the winter. This eye-catching flower attracts bees and butterflies. In a NASA study for indoor air improvement, Gerbera proved effective in removing chemical vapors and toxic gases.* 
Soil and location
Plant gerbera daisy in a sunny location protected from the hot afternoon sun. Full sun is best for more flower production. It should be planted in rich well-drained soil when the night temperatures are in the 40′s at night. As with many plants, they don’t like wet, soggy soil. If you have clay soil, one that holds moisture and stays wet, you will need to amend the soil by adding organic material such as peat moss, compost,etc. to improve drainage. If the soil cannot be amended, then a raised bed or container is suggested. Plant the crowns above the soil level, too deep will invite crown rot.
Care
Water early in the day and allow it to dry slightly between watering. Avoid overhead watering. Improper watering and poor drainage will lead to problems such as crown rot and poor flower production.
Feed monthly with a 1/2 strength balanced fertilizer and every two weeks during the flowering period (spring and summer). Maintain the plant by removing spent flowers and old leaves.
Propagation
Gerbera daisy can be started from seed 10-20 weeks before the last frost. No pretreatment is required. After collection, seeds should be germinated within 1-2 months. They may even reseed themselves during the summer. Keep in mind that plants grown from seed may differ from the parent plant. You can also divide the plant in the spring or take basal cuttings in the summer and dip in rooting hormone.
Cut flower
Not only is Gerbera daisy attractive in the garden or as a potted plant; they are also a favorite cut flower. The long vase life of up to 14 days and a myriad of available colors make this a favorite for floral designers. Hybridizers have produced hundreds of varieties with almost every color available except for blue and purple.
*Eco Friendly House Plants/Wolverton
Problems: Thrips, leafminer, spider mite, caterpillar, botrytis, powdery mildew, fungal rot and crown rot.
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