Gardeners Supply Plant Care & Gardening Advice/Tips/Secrets @ HortChat.com®

I have very large healthy Hydrangia foliage but no flowers.  Why??

First thing you have to determine is what type of hydrangea you have.  Here are some of the common reasons that hydrangea fail to bloom :

1.  Too much shade-all grow in partial shade but too much will reduce or eliminate bloom.
2. Too much fertilizer-too much nitrogen will promote healthy green leaves at the expense of flowers. 
3.  Winter damage- If you live in the cooler climates, the flower buds may have been damaged from freezing temperatures. Only smooth (H. arborescens) and panicle(H. paniculata) hydrangea bloom on new wood; bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla) blooms primarily on old wood (*with the exception of new remotant bloomers ) which means that they need to set their buds in the current season and make it through the winter to bloom the following year.  *New cultivars of H. macrophylla,  such as Endless Summer, Twist n Shout will  bloom on old growth as well as new growth.
4. Pruning – be aware of the timing.  Judicious pruning is important. Too much and late pruning will eliminate next years flower buds. If you prune to reduce the height, do so right after blooming.  If you  prune to thin out the plant, cut some of the oldest stems to ground level in the early spring(dormant season). Most hydrangeas grow well with no pruning at all whereas others such as H. arborescens (Annabelle) and H. paniculata (Pink Diamond) usually need to be cut back every year. 

When is the best time to cut back Hydrangeas?

The best time to prune is early spring and immediately after flowering. It helps to know what kind of Hydrangea you have to know how much to prune.
H.arborescens blooms on new wood, so you can cut it down to 1/2 size or 6″ above the ground in the winter or early spring. No pruning will give you less vigorous growth and smaller flowers.
H. paniculata - same as H. arborescens.
H. macrophylla Bigleaf hydrangea- blooms on old wood (except for Endless Summer, Penny Mac and All Summer Beauty) do not prune, only to remove spent flowers. Cut right below the flower head. Any other pruning will reduce flower production for the next season. The more you cut the less flowers you will get.
H. quercifolia, Oakleaf hydrangea blooms on old wood -prune same as H. macrophylla. Prune in early spring to shape or thin the plant at the expense of flowers.

There is a great collection of Hydrangeas here to buy:

Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family. There are a number of varieties ranging from green slicers, small picklers, light green, yellow and white, not to mention the “burpless” cultivars and novelty dwarf bush plants.

Planting
Sow seeds directly into the ground when soil and air temperatures are around 60 degrees F in an area that gets 6-8 hrs of sun. Warm soil is necessary for good germination. Plant seeds either in a hill or row  To plant a hill, mound up soil to make a 12′ circle plant 4-6 seeds 1/2-1″ deep. The hills should be 2-3 feet apart in each direction. Thin seedlings to 3 plants per hill. For row planting, thin seedlings to one per foot. Add compost to soil to help retain moisture and provide nutrients. You can have a second planting 5 weeks after the first for a fall harvest. Cucumbers should produce 50-60 days after seed planting.

Care
Cucumbers are shallow-rooted and require uniform moisture at least 1″ of water per week throughout the growing season. Water deeply. Hot, dry conditions will produce bitter and poorly shaped fruit. When seedlings are 1 ft. tall and begin to vine, side-dress with compost or a nitrogen fertilizer and mulch to maintain even moisture.  Provide a sturdy support such as an A-frame trellis or plant next to a fence for cucumbers to climb on. It will make the cucumbers easier to find and is a more efficient use of space.

Harvest cucumbers every other day. Pick when they are uniformly green, firm and crisp. If  left on the vine too long the fruit will become fat, yellow and bitter and will slow down new production. The more you pick the more you get.  Do not handle plants when wet.

Pests:
Cucumber beetle is a yellow or greenish yellow beetle with black spots or stripes that feed on the leaves and blossoms. The beetle infects the plant with bacterial wilt which causes the plant to wilt and die when half grown. Cucumber beetles are attracted to stressed plants. Preventative: Cover the seedlings with floating row cover until flowers emerge and when the beetle is present spray with Rotenone , Carbaryl or Pyrethrins.

I would like to know how to care for an oriental lily such as a Stargazer lily?

Oriental lilies such as Stargazer  (red & white) or Casablanca (pure white) are easy to care for once they are established in your flower bed. Plant them in full sun in well-drained fertile but not soggy soil. They will tolerate some light shade as well. In hot climates they prefer morning sun and afternoon shade. Plant in early spring or fall 3 times the depth of the bulb (6-8″).  Add a teaspoon of bone meal to the bottom of the hole. Fertilize twice a year, once in spring and again just before blooming.  The sweet scented lilies bloom from mid to late summer ( July-Sept).

Trouble shooting:  Insects: Aphids,bulb mites, weevils and red lily leaf beetle
Common fungal diseases:  Foot rot (Phytophthora cactorum)-stems rot just below soil surface can also attack new shoot tips.  Botrytis elliptica, gray mold-tops of emerging shoots wilt and die.

Growing Tropical Hibiscus

A popular plant sold at box stores and nurseries is the Tropical Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa- sinensis). This well-known species is hardy along the Gulf Coast, California, Florida and Hawaii but can be set outdoors for the summer in any part of the country. There are hundreds of cultivars that come in various shaped flowers as well as in almost every color and are sold as container plants in bush or topiary form.

Care:
Hibiscus need, well-drained slightly acid soil, direct sun and some protection (filtered shade) when temperatures are in the 90 degrees. When you bring it out for the first time you need to acclimate it to the intense heat and sun. They also like a lot of water. Fertilize lightly and often with a diluted 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 during the active growing season.

The disk like flowers will usually last a day or two and come in single five petals, crested single, double and cup saucer double. Hibiscus has active periods of bloom that are followed by a rest, indoors and out. So if your plant stopped blooming for a while, it may be just resting.

Over wintering
When the night temperatures drop below 50 degrees bring your hibiscus indoors for the winter. To help endure the long season, keep it in a (65-75), bright sunny room (4-5 hrs) away from direct heat and drafts. Water less but keep the soil evenly moist and provide humidity with a humidifier or a pebble tray filled with water. Check for pests such as aphids, whitefly and spider mites and treat with insecticidal soap if infestation occurs. Another option is to let your hibiscus become dormant for the winter. Bring it indoors and stop watering until soil is dry and the leaves have fallen off. Then place it in a cool, dark room with temperatures of 40-45F. Check the soil periodically to make sure it doesn’t totally dry out. When the top 2-3 inches are dry, water just enough to moisten the soil and keep the plant from dying .

Pruning
If your plant has grown leggy and out of control you can prune it 1/3-1/2 in early spring to reshape and keep it bushy. Pruning the roots in the fall also helps slow down branch growth.

In cooler climates, hibiscus can be enjoyed as a houseplant indoors in the winter and brought outdoors for the summer. With a little care you can enjoy these tropical flowers on and off all year long.

Troubleshooting
A common occurrence is yellowing leaves and leaf drop; which can be caused by overwatering or underwatering. How do you determine which one? Look at the root ball. Is it potbound? Meaning are the roots so tight that they are growing in a circular pattern with little soil left? Do water everyday and the plant still looks dry? If this is happening chances are you are ‘underwatering’. There is not enough soil to retain any water and nutrients. Instead of soaking in, the water and nutrients are flowing right through the drain holes leaving your plant thirsty and hungry. It’s time to repot into a larger container. The best time to repot is in the spring but if that can’t wait add more soil to your container to help with water absorption.

Here you can buy this:

Heirloom tomatoes

Once you have the taste of a good heirloom tomato you’ll be convinced to try them. Some of  the best tasting tomatoes are the heirloom varieties. They are known for their distinctive colors, flavor, size  and texture. Traits that have been passed down for generations.  Many hybridized tomatoes are a combination of the best heirloom traits whether it be disease resistance, hardiness, color, size of fruit, ripening time and how well they transport. In the process of hybridization some good traits from heirloom tomatoes such as flavor and nutrients have been compromised; that is why many home vegetable gardeners are again starting to grow heirlooms again. 

One of the problems that you can encounter with heirlooms is their lack of resistance to soil borne disease such as Fusarium wilt, Verticilium wilt.  You can avoid soil borne disease by planting your heirlooms in containers filled with potting soil mix.  When planting in the garden, form a barrier with plastic or mulch, between the soil and the plant so that no soil splashes on the leaves. Don’t plant in the same spot the following year. 

The great thing about heirloom tomatoes is that they produce true seeds which can be saved year after year and produce the same tomato.

Some of my favorite heirloom tomatoes are: Boxcar Willie,Black Krim, Brandywine, Cherokee purple, Mortgage Lifter, Pineapple andYellow pear.  You will find that some tomatoes grow better in your local area than others.

Basil (Ocimum spp.) has its roots in India and Africa but is mostly known and appreciated all over the world. The word basil comes from Greek basileus meaning King and it certainly can be considered royalty among herbs.

Care
Basil has broad, dark green aromatic leaves that can be grown from seed. It should be started indoors in early spring (May) or sown directly in the garden after danger of frost has passed. Basil needs warm soil and temperature to germinate. If started too early you will get slow, weak growth so don’t rush it. Transplants can be planted when temperatures are above 50 degrees at night. This heat loving annual, thrives in warm weather, requires full sun and a rich well drained soil. As with many herbs, it needs little fertilizer; in fact with too much fertilizer, basil will develop a bland flavor. Container grown basil may need more fertilizer than basil grown in the ground.
Plant 12 inches apart to allow room for growth as they grow as wide as they get tall (12-24 inch). To maintain the size and shape of this vigorous growing plant, pinch frequently.  For best leaf production and flavor harvest your basil often and enjoy.

Flowerheads
Once the plant reaches maturity or temps are over 80 degrees, look for emerging flower heads which will drain the plant of energy to produce more leaves. Pinching or deadheading doesn’t stop flowering, it encourages more flowers. To discourage flower production and stimulate more leaf growth, cut the stem at least six leaf nodes down. If basil is allowed to go to seed, the leaves will develop a bitter flavor. For a continuous supply of fresh basil, plant at three week intervals during the summer. Plant basil next to tomato plant to improve their flavor.

There are more than 150 species of basil grown around the world. Even the most popular have a wide range of leaf shapes and flavors from anise, camphor, cinnamon to lemon. Sweet Italian Basil has an anise flavor which brings out the essence of summer tomatoes. ‘Genovese’ as well as bush basil (O. basilicum minimum) are great for pesto and Thai (Siam Queen) impart a spicy flavor with a hint of licorice to Thai and Indian cuisine. The dwarf to medium sized basils; such as Little-leaf bush or Spicy globe are ideal for small pots and window boxes. Don’t  forget Dark Opal Basil which not only stands up as a culinary herb but also works well as a decorative accent plant. Combine basils with parsley, sage, rosemary and chives along with any one of your favorite herbs in a large container, place it close to the kitchen door and you will have a convenient culinary herb garden at your disposal.
 

Basil tip: Mosquitos and flies dislike the smell of basil. Grow it on a patio or deck to keep them away.
Rub crushed basil on your skin to repel mosquitoes.             

Problems;  light green/yellowing leaves possible overwatering or needs fertilizer. Black dying leaves-cold weather
Insects:  Aphids, Japanese beetles, slugs feed on the leaves.
Disease:  Damping-Off (Rhizoctonia), root rot and fusarium wilt and leaf spot                                                     

How to propagate wisteria

There are several ways to propagate wisteria.
1. seeds 2. cuttings 3. grafts

Take soft stem cuttings in later summer; dip it rootone and plant in sand, perlite, vermiculite or a mixture of all three. Keep moist and when you see signs of new growth you’ll know there are some roots. Not all cultivars will root or be true to the cultivar. Wisteria will bloom 2-3 yrs from stem cuttings-better than 10 years when started from seed.

Another method is by digging out suckers and underground runners that spread in the soil.  The roots will produce a true cultivar.
You can also try layering - which is done by covering part of a one year old stem that has been bruised with soil and leaving the shoot tip above the soil line. This can take as long as a year and produce the same plant. When the plant develops new roots,  sever the stem from the main plant and transplant it.

Once established wisteria can become an aggressive vine climbing up to 30 feet.  Some varieties are considered invasive in warmer climates. So check with your local extension office for which one is “safe” to grow in your area.  All parts of the plant including the seeds are poisonous. Here’s the good news wisteria is deer resistant.