Gardeners Supply Plant Care & Gardening Advice/Tips/Secrets @ HortChat.com®

46 comments to Florist Azalea care

• Pat

  March 26th, 2005 at 12:05 am · Reply

  I have an azalea plant that has dropped all of its leaves. If I prune this plant will it survive? Can you please offer any advise to save this bush. Thank you

  You can cut it back, it will take pruning to as much as 6-12″ to the ground. Best time to head back your azalea is before spring growth begins. By mid summer you should have new growth. Mulch and keep the shallow roots moist but not wet during this time. As you new growth emerges, pinch or cut back any new shoots that are 6-12″ long to get a bushier plant.

• k

  March 28th, 2005 at 12:19 pm · Reply

  Can I split an azalea plant into more parts, if it has been grown in a pot?

  You can split your azalea if you clearly see two separate main stems – that is if two seedlings that were planted together.

• Kary Niehaus

  April 25th, 2005 at 8:10 pm · Reply

  How far apart should I plant Azalea’s and I have red clay soil, also how deep should we plant them? thanks

  To plant your azalea dig a hole the same depth as the rootball and twice the width. If you have clay soil add peat moss into the soil and plant the rootball higher than the original grade to allow for better drainage. Additionally, add good soil on top of mound and add 2-3″ of mulch. Don’t pile the mulch against the trunk of the plant. The spacing should be determined by the mature size of the azalea. Some can be 4 ft wide other more or less.

• Yvonne Brajevich

  May 1st, 2005 at 12:35 pm · Reply

  I have many Azaleas planted in my garden but find that the leaves are going white although I have added iron and also acid to the soil. The back of the leaf has lots of tiny dark spots and I am wondering if these plants have a chewing insect on them and they need to be sprayed with something. Can you tell me what and many thanks.

  You may have some kind of sucking insect such as spider mites. Check for web in the leaf axils and on the back of the leaf. Google http://hgic:clemson.edu they have a good list of insects problem that can occur on azaleas. Another possiblity is that it’s not insects but sunburn. During sunny weather the center portion of the leaf turn to a tan, off-white color. If that is the case you need to move your azalea to a more shaded/protected spot.

• holly

  May 1st, 2005 at 7:48 pm · Reply

  My azaleas have been severely cut back and now have spindly shoots coming out instead of a bush effect. How can I fix this problem or are they too damaged?

  azaleas can take pruning, be patient and they should fill in and get bushy. Pinch back the spindly shoots once they are 6-12″, that will encourage bushier growth as well.

• Marg

  May 17th, 2005 at 9:24 am · Reply

  my azalea is an indoor plant do the flowers fall off or do I pinch them off ? any help would be great

  The flowers usually dry up and come off, you don’t need to pinch them unless you like to tidy up the plant.

• Orlando

  June 12th, 2005 at 7:46 am · Reply

  The flowers on my Azalea have dried up and fell off…but the leaves are drying up and falling off too !!! The soil is damp and seems ok. Some leaves are still held on pretty strong. Should I cut back the branches to conserve it’s energy ?

  According to the Azalea society when leaves turn brown,die and drop in the summer is an indication of too little water, too much water or too much fertilizer. Check the root ball for moisture and the condition of the roots. They should be firm. Crisp-brown mushy root indicate too much water or a type of root rot. Cut back any dried branches below the dead zone. Sterilize your tools with a bleach solution(1 part bleach 9 parts water) or wipe tool with alcohol between each cutting as not to spread the disease.

• ROBIN SMITH

  July 8th, 2005 at 12:38 pm · Reply

  I HAVE A AZALEA BUSH AND IT IS GROWING BEAUTIFULLY, IT BUDS BUT IT DOES NOT BLOOM. THE BUDS ARE EMPTY. CAN YOU HELP ME?

  Buds that are empty and dried out are victims of either a disease( botrytis) or an insect (thrips) both indicate the same symptoms. Eliminate overhead watering to see if it is botrytis. If that doesn’t work then it may be thrips. These are tiny insects that feed on the flower bud. They are difficult to control. Try spraying with Orthene or Sevin when the buds start to develop. You may have to repeat the spraying in 10 days.

• Mary Hamm

  October 5th, 2005 at 5:16 pm · Reply

  My Azalea’s are about 10yrs. old. I need to transplant them, because we had to cut some trees, and now they will be in full sun all day.When and how is the best time to transplant them.

  The safer time is in the Spring but you can move it in the Fall before the ground freeze and when the plant is dormant.

• Janet Simmonds

  April 1st, 2006 at 9:28 am · Reply

  All of my white azaleas have brown on the edges of the flowers, also the buds. Is it because they get wet from the sprinklers?

  Yes, your sprinkler probably helped with the problem. The buds are less cold hardy than the plant and with any slight freeze will turn brown. Flower buds can develop petal blight in cool, damp weather which is caused by a fungus. .

• Ross Currie

  April 2nd, 2006 at 10:50 am · Reply

  i bought some azaleas back in december and planted them in an area where they only get sun from sunrise to about 11am. if they do flower its only about 1 or 2 every couple weeks. they have new growth on them but they are not flowering. do you know what the problem may be?

  Some azaleas are prolific bloomer whereas others are not. Some factors that may affect blooming is : if this year’s buds were pruned last year. They form a few months after blooming. Less than 3 hrs of sun will reduce the number of buds, lack of moisture and poor plant nutirtion. Generally, Azaleas will bloom in the spring and when they do its all at once which lasts about 2 weeks.

• jordan

  April 24th, 2006 at 2:15 pm · Reply

  i just bought an old home and the azaleas bloomed but there is alot of dead wood i am removing, but they are spindly and tall( 10′ or so) should i cut them all back? if so how much should i cut them?please help me thanks

  There are two ways to prune an Azalea. Thinning-remove the dead wood, leggy stems by cutting back to the main trunk or other branch. This will reduce the size of the plant. You can thin anytime but it is better when done right after flowering-so it won’t affect next years flowers. The second is heading- which is cutting back athe branch to reduce the size of the plant. This is used to renew an overgrown old plant. Cut back 6-12 ” to the ground which should give you new growth by midsummer. Best time to do this is before Spring growth begins because it will give the plant time to form next years buds and new growth to mature and harden before winter. After renewal pruning, trim the new growth to get a bushier plant. Be sure to keep it well watered and when new growth emerges(late spring) fertilize it. You can do this now but if done later in the season you may sacrifice next years flowers. For additional info on azalea care go to http:// hgic/clemson.edu

• Jan

  May 13th, 2006 at 4:24 pm · Reply

  I have received a small Azalea for a gift and would like to keep it indoors, we have nice lighting along with skylights, could you tell me what kind of pot to plant it in referring to size and where it should be kept in the house, it is simply beautiful….thank-you

  Indoors-keep it in a bright filtered light-no direct sun. If you need to replant it put it in a pot that is one inch larger and use a well-drained soil mix with peat moss. It might be happy in the container it is in for now. Fertilize with an acid loving fertilizer(Muracid)in the spring and during the growing season. Be sure not to let it dry out too much. They like to be kept moist but not wet.

• rose habschied

  May 19th, 2006 at 1:09 am · Reply

  What is the maximum life expetancy of a grocery store azalea.
  #1…if kept indoors
  #2…if set outdoors over the summer in a northern climate
  #3…what is the maximum blooming time
  #4…what about repeat blooming
  Thanks if I receive answers to these questions it would be wonderful!
  Rose

  Store azalea if kept indoors can survive several years if you are dilligent in maintaining moisture and fertilizing. If set outdoors it will enjoy the summer shade and should be brought indoors for the winter as they are not hardy in Northern climates. An azalea’s flowers an last 4-6 wks. depending on how tight the buds are when you buy it and how you keep it. IF it is allowed to wilt, the blooming time will be reduced and flowers damaged. Hot temperatures will also reduce blooming time. Repeat blooming is triggered by short days and long nights so when you bring it indoor in the fall(before frost) it will start to set its buds and may rebloom in the winter.

• Stacey

  August 9th, 2006 at 4:22 am · Reply

  My husband just picked up some fisher pink azaleas a couple of days ago. Is it to late to plant them in the ground. We live in south texas. Thanks

  Azaleas can be planted all year and the fall is a good time. Be sure to plant in a well drained soil with the top of the root ball level or just above the soil line-not lower. When taking out of the container, check the roots. If the are growing in a circle around the outside of the rootball, you will need to make 3-4 evenly spaced 1/4 “cuts to encourage the roots to spread out.

• prabhakar Hosanagara

  October 11th, 2006 at 1:56 am · Reply

  I have a huge bush of Azalea out side. I collected quite an amount of seeds. Can I start with the seed for new plant or can I cut branches from the bush and grow inside during the winter and plant in the spring. i would like to propagate the plant and use it as border on front of the house. Thank you for attention. Prabhakar.

  You can sow the seeds in the winter in a moist sand/peat or perlite mix. Broadcast the seeds on the surface, mist lightly and cover with plastic. Seeds should germinate in 2-6 wks, depending on variety. Cuttings should be taken in the spring (softwood cuttings) for deciduous Azaleas, whereas with evergreen Azaleas semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken from June on. The cutting should not break when bent and will take 6-8 wks to root.

• Linda Turner

  November 28th, 2006 at 1:52 pm · Reply

  I received a florist Azalea for my birthday a week ago. The pot it is in is very small but I am afraid to repot it. I live in Indiana and don’t believe I can plant it outdoors. Do you think I can leave it in the pot it is in until spring?

  Yes, leave it in the pot till spring. Winter is not a good time to repot.

• Marge Bernard

  May 7th, 2007 at 5:04 am · Reply

  we have a beautiful white azalea plant that came with the house (so it is at least 20 years) and it is important to me as it blooms exactly on our anniversary every year…and until the past couple of years has really given a beautiful showing of blooms. I have pruned dead branches back here and there but this year there is major dead branches (60-70%)…meanwhile there is growth, new leaves and buds in other areas(30-40%). my husband wants to get rid of it but I have an attachment to it and want to try and save it. can the major part of the plant be cut back to the base of the plant and then can I expect re-growth next year??? the plant is also rather miss-shaped now from the branches from the past few years I have pruned out. would cutting it back to the base give me a new start at a better shape? any help would be appreciated. thank you.

  Since you have so much damage this year, prune away the dead branches only and leave any growing stems. The plant needs to make food via leaves to survive. Feed it with some Muracid and just prune lightly after blooming to encourage new growth.
  For heavy pruning try renewal pruning which is done over a period of 3 years. Cut back 1/3 of all stems(including dead and diseases branches) to ground level the first year, 1/3 the second yr, and 1/3 the third yr. so that all branches will be cut back over 3 years. This will promote new growth. Renewal pruning (hard pruning) should be done in the early spring before new growth emerges.

• Stephanie McCall

  May 14th, 2007 at 7:46 am · Reply

  I recently bought an Azalea plant and noticed a little too late that the water was not draining from the pot it came in. Nothing has dropped off yet, but the flowers have become limp and wilted. About a day after I noticed this I re-potted it in a larger pot that has drainage holes. Will this help bring it back or is it too late? What else can I do to heal it?

  Hopefully, your plant’s roots were not waterlogged and have the start of root rot-which can happen if it was overwatered with no drainage. It isn’t the best time to transplant when the plant is in bloom. Keep your azalea in a cool, shaded spot for a few days so that it can recuperate. Either keep it as a houseplant or let it spend the summer outdoors in the shade (North or east exposure) when the weather permits. Allow the soil to slightly dry between watering and don’t let the plant sit in water. Fertilize it with muracid (formulated for acid-loving plants) during the active growing season. As long as the leaves are healthy, the plant should be fine.

• Dorothy Gruszka

  June 4th, 2007 at 10:09 am · Reply

  Very informative- I never had an azalea plant before this gift of one. Thank you

• Cheryl

  August 17th, 2007 at 12:45 pm · Reply

  2007-5-12
  Miniature azalea bush. Could you please tell me how tall and wide they grow? thank you.

  I’m not sure what kind of azalea you have. Are you referring to the green house azalea plant? The average height and width of an outdoor azalea bush can get 6 ft tall and 4 ft wide.

• DAVID CIRILLI

  September 27th, 2007 at 6:02 am · Reply

  I have an 4 azalea bushes in my yard. One of these bushes has started dropping leaves from the center of the plant and looks like it is dying.This is a large plant by my home entry and i don’t want to lose it. Any suggestions?

  Some leaf drop on azaleas is normal in the fall. Leaves that turn brown and drop during the summer can be a sign of too much or too little water and too much fertilizer. If single branches are dying and dropping leaves you may have dieback (fungus). Are the leaves curling inward and dropping? Do they have spots on them? Are the leaves wilting and then dropping? Azaleas like a low ph and will decline in alkaline soil. If your front entry is constructed of concrete or has gravel-that can leach into the soil and affect the soil ph of your azalea. Best you can do is take a branch to your extension office to analyze the problem.

• D

  March 15th, 2008 at 4:47 pm · Reply

  I fertilized my azaleas with a fertilizer designed for azaleas. Now, the tips of the leaves are brown and the flower buds aren’t blooming, they are just dry and brown. Did I over fertilize? Will they recover? What else can I do for them?

  I would suspect that watering is the problem more than the fertilizer. If allowed to get too dry or too wet the leaves & buds will turn brown. Not enough humidity can also be a problem. Hold off on the fertilizer and wait till new growth start to show. When watering your azalea let the water drain from the bottom of the pot. If the plant was really dry (when the pot feels light), let it soak up water for 1 hour and then drain it. Don’t let the pot stand in water for a prolonged period of time. Overhead watering (getting water on the flower bud) can cause botrytis which will result in the buds to turning brown and dry up.

• KIM HICKS

  May 26th, 2008 at 6:05 pm · Reply

  Exactly what part of the azalea bloom is to be removed once they have faded? I just moved to a property with beautiful azalea bushes that were loaded with blooms this spring. Most of the blooms have already fallen off, but I am wondering id I need to remove just the flower or the “flower stalks”, much like a rhododendron?

  Pinch or clip out the old bloom just above the new leaf buds that are directly below the flowers just like rhododendrons. For more info see azalea.org

• Cathy Caffery

  June 8th, 2008 at 5:30 pm · Reply

  I have an azalea bush it seems healthy it is green and lush but did not bloom or have any flower buds? It has bloomed other years. Is there something wrong with it?

  Did you prune or fertilize it?

• Susan Jacobs

  July 4th, 2008 at 7:21 am · Reply

  I have an Azalia that bloomed through all 3 seasons last year. This year it rained so heavy in the spring all the blossom became damaged and never recovered. I removed the dead blossom thinking it would bloom again but it hasnt. I have fertilized it, is there anything else I can do to encourage it to bloom again?

  Hi Susan
  Azalea bloom once per season and then they are done for the year. A healthy growth during the season should set up new flowers for next year.

• Jacqui

  July 9th, 2008 at 12:26 pm · Reply

  I was given a potted azalea plant. This is my first house plant. After about a month the plants blooms turned brown and dried out. The leaves became dry as well and fell off. What have I done and what needs to be done to help my plant?

  Hi Jacqui
  Sometimes potted azaleas are difficult to keep. The medium that they are planted is can dry out and when it does it is difficult to rehydrate. On the other hand, keeping the plant too wet can also kill the roots. If it has any life, it should send out some new growth. Remove the plant from the pot, loosen the roots and repot in fresh well-drained potting mix. Place the plant in a shaded area outdoors until it recovers. If there’s no new growth before you repot, then its most likely dead.

• Jenna

  July 10th, 2008 at 1:56 pm · Reply

  I bought a house with a bank of azaleas planted on the south face of the house. They are probably over 10 years old. They are in full sun all day, causing them to bloom and then wilt in about 6-7 days in the spring. I want to transplant them to a shadier area in my yard, but had a couple of questions. How severely should they be pruned before transplanting them this fall? How big of a root ball should I aim for (these are planted near where my neighbors phone lines run)?
  Thanks!

  HI Jenna
  Here’s a source of good detailed information on Azalea transplanting & pruning. http://www.azaleas.org/index.pl/faq.html#pla

• Terri

  August 22nd, 2008 at 7:21 am · Reply

  I live in Cleveland, Ohio and just rec’d an azalea bush from a florist as a get well plant. It is the end of August. I would like it to be an outdoor plant. Can I plant it now or when? Do I have to bring it in in the winter?

  Hi Terri
  Most likely the florist Azalea is not hardy in your area. You will have to keep it indoors. You might contact the florist and ask them what kind kind of azalea it is.

• patricia telker

  August 31st, 2008 at 12:31 pm · Reply

  I planted several azalea bushes to the north side of my house. alot of the leaves are turning yellow to red and dropping off. I have done everything I know to do. Is this normal at this time of year?

  Hi Patricia
  The problem you describe may be the symptom of one of the major diseases that can affect azalea is Phytophthora root rot (Phytophthora cinnamomi) which is caused by poorly drained, wet soil. The roots begin to rot and little by little the plant declines, dropping its leaves. The plant can die suddenly or take years to die. Fungicide treatment is expensive and ineffective once the plant has the disease. Some of the things you can do to avoid root rot is 1. plant resisitant cultivars 2. plant in well drained soil, if you have clay-soil then add organic material to improve drainage or plant in raised beds. Do not plant deeper than grown in the container. 3. do not overwater-avoid soggy soil, excessive run-off rainwater. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/Ornamental/odin16/odin16.htm

• Lisa Hopkin

  September 17th, 2008 at 12:21 pm · Reply

  HELP! I am not a plant person. I have several Azalea plants that have blossomed the three years I have lived at my home. Suddenly, this fall, I noticed that some of the plants had dead branches. I went in to prune and now they are very thin. A couple of them are dead all the way to the stem. But only partly dead. There is some growth on the other side of the stem. Can I pull half the plant away and plant another beside it or would you replant totally? Plus, the others are thin, should I just start over with all of them. I do not know why they have suddenly died. I was thinking maybe the green ivy type ground cover took all the water and the Azaleas paid the price. I did not mulch this year either.

• Jen

  September 27th, 2008 at 5:48 pm · Reply

  I recently moved and have aquired what I believe to be a miniature azalea? It has purple blooms, only one bloom per bud, and no clusters. It just started blooming and bush size is about 3′x3′. Do I need to cut this back going into winter? Not sure if it was cut back before. The overall plant size has not really changed since May. It is on the north side of my house and looks to have been there for quite a while. Just looking for some information; don’t know anything about azaleas. Thanks!

• JEANETTE

  November 27th, 2008 at 11:08 am · Reply

  I live in Toronto, Canada and would like to know what to do with my potted azalea over the winter. The flowers are all gone and the leaves are wilting but I see some new growth near the base of the plant.

  Hi Jeanette
  Keep your azalea in bright filtered and the soil slightly moist and provide humidity. Are the leaves wilting because of not enough watering (is the pot light and dry) or has it been too wet? It may not survive the winter indoors, if it does, repot in fresh soil, trim away all dead stems and set it outdoors when the weather warms up.

• Maryann

  December 2nd, 2008 at 1:18 pm · Reply

  I have an indoor azalea plant which I have had for about 4 years. I am very pleased with the blooming it continues to do. However, every once in a while it drops blooms that are still fresh (I put them in a dish of water and they stay beautiful for a week or 2). I haven’t figured out why this happens. Can you tell me?

  Hi Maryann
  The flowers will drop on an Azalea if it is exposed to too much cold (drafts), too much water or not enough water. When stressed, the first thing a blooming plant will do is drop its buds or flowers.

• Mary Lee Kisor

  January 15th, 2009 at 5:13 pm · Reply

  I received a beautiful florist azalea in April ‘08 in full bloom. I kept it outdoors in a sheltered spot all summer. Put it on a more protected porch in early fall, and in Sept. it set new buds. Brought it in before frost and it burst into full bloom. Then when blooms died it dropped almost all leaves. What should I do to revive it, and keep it as a house plant?

  Hi Mary
  It’s difficult to say what happened to your Azalea but I suspect root damage. They don’t tolerate dry indoor air, hard water and need to be kept moist but not wet. You don’t mention repotting the plant. By this time all the nutrients are gone and the soil ph has changed. If the plant is still alive, it needs to be re potted in fresh peat potting soil to continue to grow. Keep it in bright, indirect light and cool temps during the winter. Be sure to feed it an acid fertilizer during the growing season.

• debbie

  February 14th, 2009 at 10:33 am · Reply

  We just had a sewer line replaced and two established azalea plants had to be dug up. The plumbers replanted them in their same spots but because of our zone (6), I’m afraid they won’t do well during the rest of our winter. Should I dig them up and bring them inside till spring (6 weeks) or leave them out? What are your suggestions?

  HI Debbie
  Leave your azalea plants where they are. Digging them up will be worse. Mulch around the plants to maintain even moisture around the roots.

• Mandy

  February 16th, 2009 at 4:00 pm · Reply

  I received a small light pink azalea plant for Valentine’s Day. It’s trunks/branches are braided and the leaves and blooms are in a round shape at the top. Is there any special care that I should give? I’ve read alot of the above posts and have the following questions: Before watering do I need to wait till the top of soil is dry? Do I water from the top or bottom? I water it daily from the top in my sink where it can drain well. When do I fertilize?

  HI Mandy
  Water your azalea when the top 1 inch feels dry-before the leaves or flowers show any signs of wilting. You don’t need to water it every day. If the pot feels light then give it a thorough watering like you indicated by letting the water drain well from the bottom. If you allow the soil to get too dry then water and let the plant sit in water for up to 1/2-1 hour and then drain. Start fertilizing with an acid fertilizer after the plant is done blooming. Enjoy your tree azalea. Bring it out in the spring after frost. It makes a nice accent plant on a patio or even a large container.

• Beth

  March 10th, 2009 at 1:55 pm · Reply

  Please help. I planted 6 azalea plants last year. Toward the end of the summer, I noticed that the leaves on all the plants were turning dull and spotted. Now 3 of the plants have completely turned brown and they are very brittle. The branches just break off when you touch them. Why? What can I do?

  Hi Beth
  Azaleas outdoors can get a number of fungal diseases most of which are caused by stress and created by adverse growing conditions. It is important to match the plants’ needs to the site. If the azalea is too wet, too dry, too much sun, planted too deep, injured, soil ph is too high etc. IF the branches are dried out and haven’t sent out new growth, then they are dead. You may want to re-evaluate the growing area the other 3 plants are in. Azaleas need well-drained, slightly acid soil and partial shade.

• Patrick

  March 11th, 2009 at 9:09 am · Reply

  I bought 2 azaleas of the same variety last fall. I planted them about 3 ft. apart. One is doing quite well with bright green, healthy looking leaves. The other has a few dead branches which I’ve pruned, but it also looks a bit “sickly”, with darker colored leaves that are drooping a bit.
  Any suggestions? I’ve cared for each plant in exactly the same way since planting and they’re in the same area, so the soil must be the same
  Thanks very much.

  Hi Pat
  Eventhough you have the same plants, they are not genetically the same-just like twins. One plant may have a weaker resistance to disease or stress. The best thing you can do for the “sickly” plant is to make sure it has optimal growing conditions. Don’t let it get too dry in the heat of summer. Give it a dose of acid fertilizer in the spring when it start to put on new growth.
  Dieback disease is caused by a fungus where some stems will dieback where the rest of the plant seems healthy. You can check for dieback by scraping some of the bark on the dying stems-if the wood under the bark is chocolate brown, then its dieback. If so, reduce stress, prune away and remove all infected stems. Make the cut below the infected area. Use a preventative fungicide to avoid further spread. Follow label directions for spraying.

• Tiffany forsythe

  March 12th, 2009 at 8:02 am · Reply

  Hello! I just bought several encore azaleas (autumn embers) and ended up planting them on the north side of my house, along the foundation. After planting, I noticed this area, while pretty exposed, gets very little sun during the day due to the shadow cast by our house. So far, they look fine. I live in wilmington, nc (zone 7-8). It gets awfully hot and humid in the dead of summer here, and my husband insists on leaving them put and seeing how they do. What do you think?

  Hi Tiffany
  I agree with your husband. See how they do. Generally, azaleas like a shaded area and will be better of in the shade especially during the hot summer. It is important to remember that they need acid soil to grow well.

• SD

  March 24th, 2009 at 6:27 am · Reply

  I just bought several azaleas from Home Depot. (They have only been in the ground for about a week or so)I used the acid fertilizer that an employee recomended for azaleas. The mixture said to water for about 10-12 minutes and now the flowers are all wilted and my white flowers turned brown. (The leaves are still green and seem to be fine)
  Are the plants dead or just the blooms gone? (I have not watered them in about 4 days scared it will hurt them more)
  They are also in full Texas sun in my backyard. What can I do to save the plants?

  Your newly planted Azaleas are suffering from transplant shock. When a plant is under stress it will first wilt/shed its flowers. It is done blooming for the year. Azaleas are usually planted in an area with dappled shade, north side of house especially if in the hot Texas sun. They need moist acid, soil that is well drained so the roots will not get water logged. Make sure that they get enough water. Water deeply and less often. Stop fertilizing until your plant is healthy & growing. A root stimulant would have been a better choice than the acid fertilizer. The newly transplanted roots need to regrow and are unable to utilize the fertilizer at this time. If planted in full sun, your Azaleas will have a difficult time during the hot summer. For continued success, its important to grow the right plant in the right place.

• texan

  March 26th, 2009 at 6:32 pm · Reply

  I want to plant new hydrangeas (about 5 or 6 of them) along one side of my home. I want them to appear as a continuous hedge.
  How far apart should they be planted?

  I am, also, planting azaleas along a fence but I need to know
  how far from the fence they should be planted.

  What kind of hydrangeas and azaleas. They grow in different “sizes”. The garden center should be able to provide you with that info.

• Susan

  April 24th, 2009 at 2:11 pm · Reply

  I want to root two azalea branches that broke off, they are very sturdy. Do I just put them in a glass of water? Thanks

  HI Susan
  If this is an evergreen azalea (keeps leaves all year long), then you can root the greenwood cuttings. Those are softwood cuttings that are taken when the new growth is starting to firm up. For greenwood cuttings – cut a 4-6 inch stem tip, remove the tip and bottom leaves, dip the cutting bottom in rooting hormone and place in moist predibbled hole (use a pencil). Firm the soil around the cutting , water well and keep it in a moist. Semi-ripe stem cuttings can also be used but those usually occur in mid summer. Sticking the broken branches in water will not work.

• Kathy

  April 30th, 2009 at 7:18 pm · Reply

  I have a small azalea bush I’ve had for several years,and every year it has always had tons of fuscia buds. I moved 2 years ago and it was fine with the transplant, but this year it did not bloom at all except for one little branch. The leaves are very lush and beautiful, and on all the other branches it looks like they had buds, but are empty and dry. It is planted right next to my house in my flower garden, and was fine for the last couple of years since the transplant…what could be wrong with it? We did kind of have a harsher and colder winter this time, but I would have thought it would have been fine since it always had been outside!

• Jennifer

  May 12th, 2009 at 12:38 pm · Reply

  I bought 2 Fashion Azaleas at the beginning of spring. My grandmother that lives 8 houses down has these exact bushes and I love hers. I planted them just as she and the person at the store said. They looked great till about a week ago. They were very vibrant with lots of buds and bright pink flowers. The buds bloomed. After they all bloomed, none of the flowers fell off. They kinda turned brown on some and others just wilted and sticking to each other. The stems and leaves are still very green and I do see new stems with leaves growing. Just no more buds. I picked all the flowers off that were rather dead or wilted and gooey just incase the plant was getting sick. Am I possible watering to much? Not enough? Is this a sign of them dying? Or just a sign of the blooms being done. I live In Southern Indiana. I do not have a green thumb. Please help me!! Will I see pretty pink flowers again?!!

  Hi Jennifer
  Azalea bloom once a year in spring, then they are finished blooming. I’m sure that when you bought it the plant was in its glorious bloom. Unfortunately, when to you plant it in the ground the plant becomes stressed and the first thing to go are the flowers. They will start to form buds in summer for next years bloom.

• cc

  May 25th, 2009 at 10:21 am · Reply

  I have a potted Azalea I brought at the nursery a year ago. It was doing so well until it started to drop everything and now is reduced to branches. Before it became this way, I’d brought it to my local nursery for suggestion to save my plant. I was told to repot it and give it some Azalea food and it would be okay.

  I snapped off a few tips of the branches and it’s bone dried, but closer to the main truck, the branches I snapped at still green. Do I have hope? What should I do?

  If I lose this Azalea, I wish to replace it, but I don’t know what type it is. The flowers were a deep pink with a slight color of violet depending how the light hits it.

  cc

Copyright HortChat.com © 2009 - All Rights Reserved