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Bearded Iris

Bearded Iris

The swordlike blue green leaves protruding in a colonized cluster display a striking contrast in any flower bed. The tall sturdy flower stem can reach up to twenty eight inches or more, looks like delicate crepe paper and velveteen. Its fragrance hints of lilac and candy can be alluring. This poor man s orchid comes in a kaleidoscope of every color (except fire engine red) which is why irises were named after the Greek goddess Iris, goddess of the rainbow.From a historical point of view, the tall bearded iris goes back twenty or more generations from a gene pool of ten species of Old World and Mediterranean iris. The fleur-de-lis design used on the French royal standard was modeled after the iris. Today’s hybrids, which comprise of approximately two hundred species are far more voluptuous and grandiose than their ancestors.

bearded iris

The bearded iris blossom is made up of three upright petals called the standards and three drooping petals called falls. The beard refers to the velvet strip inside the flower. Their rhizomes love to bask in full sun, although I found part shade to be acceptable. The important factor for growing bearded iris is that they need a well- drained soil. A wet environment can lead to rot as well as invite other problems such as iris borer.
It is best to plant bearded iris in mid-July through September, although in areas with hot summers and mild winters, September or October may be better. Plant the rhizome tops right at the soil level and point the growing tips outward of the circle or triangle, 12 to 24 inches apart. Keep the beds clean and free of vegetation and mulch for winter protection. Iris should be divided every three or four years. If allowed to become overcrowded, blooming will decline and other disease problems can occur.

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36 comments to Bearded Iris

leo mckiney

April 29th, 2005 at 8:49 am · Reply

I cannot find any information on deadheading my Iris. Do I just pluck out the old bloom or break it off at the stem or just leave it alone. I am not very knowledgabe about flowers so my jargon is lacking. There is a small swollen area below the bloom. If I deadhead, do I break the stem above or below this? Is there a time frame after the blooms die in which to do this? I hope you can understand what I am talking about. Thanks, Leo

When the flower shrivels and dries up it can easily be snapped off below the swollen area. Take care not to break off any new flowers buds. When all blooms are spent, allow the stem to die back on its own.
mindy

May 14th, 2005 at 4:18 am · Reply

Color Change

My hybrid bearded iris is 13 years old; why is it now changing to lighter colors

There are a few factors that can fade the colors on your iris. Increasing shade, a hot growing temperature and a nutrient deficiency in the soil. In warmer climates iris need some afternoon shade to keep flowers from fading. Also as some iris get older the flower color will fade.

bill schlosser
I have several starter plant of bearded iris. Several people said that if i plant them too close they will all fade and become one color. Is this true?

Too close plantings can reduce flower production and you will need to divide them earlier. If you plant different colors close together the healthier plant color can take over. Flower will also fade from nutrient deficiences and the amount of sunlight available.

I have bearded Iris that are quite big, some bloom, some don’t - then I have the regular beared Iris (I think) that usually blooms purple/blue color. However, this year they ALL bloomed white. Any reasons anyone can tell me.
Thanks, Glenda

If you plant different colors close together the healthier plant color can take over. Without knowing, you might have had a white iris among the purple/blue and it is blooming this year and perhaps taking over. Flower will also fade from nutrient deficiences and the amount of sunlight available.
nancy stone

May 16th, 2005 at 8:03 am · Reply

what kind of soil do iris like…acid or alkaline?

Iris will tolerate a wide range of soil types - sandy loam to heavy clay, as long as it is well-drained. They also prefer a neutral ph 7 but some varieties will tolerate ph 6-8.
Cheryl Koranda

May 22nd, 2005 at 6:33 pm · Reply

Iris thrips

My Bearded Iris have flowers that are deformed and appear to be rotting. This occurrs side by side with beautiful healthy blooms. The plants appear healthy and do not appear to have any signs of iris boroer damage. What is cauisng this? I read it may be aphids but see no sign of them, are they
hard to see?

If you had aphids you would see them sucking on the leaves. There are several species of thrips that will infest an iris. Gladiolus and flower thrips can also infest the flower. They feed on the buds, stem tips, and flowers. Infested plants will have distorted blooms and petals. The leaves are flecked with white and tips can curl, wither and die. The insect burrows into the flower and leaf tissue making it difficult to control. If you have thrips, try repeated sprayings of insecticidal soap every 5-7 days until infestation is gone. Remove any infected flowers.

My purple iris have not grown as tall and the blooms are misshapen. Some of the buds are not even openingl. I noticed very small greyish crawly insects as I pulled back the last leaf that the bud emerges from. I’m not sure what these are and would like to know how what to use to kill them before they spread to the neighboring yellow iris which is blooming beautifully.
Elaine Slupe

There are a number of insects that can affect Iris flower - thrips -(larvae are tiny white pests) expose the plant to a fungal infection causing stunted growth, distorted flowers. The bulb type of iris can also get bulb mites -leaves stunted/deformed and flowers disfuguired or none. Beetles, catepillars, slugs can chew the flowers and foliage. Try a systemic (Orthene) as a preventative treatment next spring
Laura Peavy

May 23rd, 2005 at 4:32 pm · Reply

When do you cut a iris plant back? Or do you?

You can cut them back in the late summer after they are done blooming and the leaves turn yellow. Iris leaves are also cut back by 2/3 after you divide them.
Judy

June 5th, 2005 at 2:26 pm · Reply

SEED PODS

Bearded Iris- I have pods (I think that is what you would call them) that grow where the bloom was. Can these be planted to make more irises? Do I need to open and dry the seed inside? Help? I also get these on my daylilies and want to know what to do with them.

The pods are full of seeds. Let them ripen and they will pop open. You can plant the seeds to make more plants. If they are hybrids you may not get the same plant as the parent. Do the same with the daylilies.

I have bed full of old bearded Iris (a Deep Purple with white center), that were given to me by a friend. My Grandmother had beds around her entire house with nothing but iris all labled with their names. However, this particular Iris has something that I have never seen before. After blooming, hudge blooms and about six to one stalk (several that come from the same pod or at least appear to), it forms something that looks like a seed pod and is about the size of a small cucumber. What is this and should I just cut it off?
Thanks, J. Kuettel

It is a seed pod. You can leave it on and let it ripen,then plant the seeds or cut it off. By allowing the seeds to ripen the plant will devote more energy to produce seeds than flowers.
Jone D.

June 7th, 2005 at 1:17 pm · Reply

Transplanting Iris

I have MANY older Iris plants that need to be transplanted now to make way for a new driveway. What is the best procedure?

Iris need to be divided and replanted every 3-5 yrs, the best time is in July or later after blooming. This will be your opportunity to rejuvenate your iris bed and perhaps share some extras with your friends. Dig up your rhizomes and cut away the new parts, discarding the old. Plant the rhizomes 18-24 inches apart pointing the fans of leaves away from each other.You can plant in a circular group. For quicker mass flowers, plant iris clumps in set of 3 closer together (8-10 inches). Cut the leaves to 1/3 of their full height. Mulch for the winter.

Karen
I divided last spring not the best time but did it….many plants do NOT have any flower blooms just the green, while others do? it doesn’t appear to be related to area planted, because some areas of replants have blooms, while some within same area do nOT…dissappointed but await with hope.

Iris can take a year to adjust after being transplanted-so that’s why you’ll have some that may bloom and others not.

Mary
I just planted some bearded iris and some of the buds are drooping over. There are more buds coming but I am worried they are going to droop too. The leaves are green. Any advice?

The best time to plant iris is in late summer or early fall so that they have time to establish a root system. A spring planting can put the iris in transplant shock as its roots have been compromised and that’s why the leaves are drooping. The roots can’t support the foliage. Best thing you can do at this time is keep it moist but not wet. It should recover with time.

Gary ( jenni1@bellsouth.net / )
Having dug up to separate plants, which did not bloom well this past season, how much of the rhizome must I cut off? Do you cut it with a knife or snap it off in your hands?

Cut the rhizomes with a sharp knife with each section having at least one growing point (or a fan of leaves)about 3-4 inches and some developed roots. Trim the fans down to 1/3 of their full height.
Jo Norris

June 30th, 2005 at 6:30 am · Reply

My iris did not bloom this year and I would like to cut them back now. Will that be ok? Also can I put mulch on them?

There are several reason why your iris may not have bloomed - one is that they may be too crowded and need division and late summer is a good time to do this. When dividing cut the foliage back to 1/3 of the leaf. If you just want to cut them back, do it in the fall when the leaves start to yellow and brown, green leaves put back nutrition and energy into the tuber for next years growth. You can mulch them for winter protection only.

penny prouty
why have my iris never bloomed. the leaves have come up and been up for 18 months, no blooms!?

Some causes for no blooms are a too shady location, they were planted too deep or over fertilized which will produce too many leaves no flowers.
Kris

July 8th, 2005 at 9:07 am · Reply

IRIS LEAF SPOT DISEASE

I had to replant my bearded iris’s last July, I used bulb food before replanting. This spring the leaves are brown on ends and have brown spots on the whole leaf. What did/am I doing wrong?

Sounds like you might have Iris leaf spot caused by a fungus Didymellina macrospora. Usually starts with small, water soaked spots that grow to 1/2 inch long spots with brownish purple center and yellow margins. The fungus winters over on infected leaves and spreads to healthy leaves via splashing water. To help control this remove infected leaves in the fall and if you have a severe infection spray with a fungicide. Use according to label directions.
Gary V. Horton

July 15th, 2005 at 5:18 am · Reply

IRIS BORER

My iris bloomed beautifully this year. while weeding the bed I notices some leave brown all the way down and mushy. Also the tip on some are turning brown. There are no “spots” as noted in the notes above, but turning dried brown sometimes 2 inches to 4-5 inches down. What is it and what should I do? Thank you

Check the tubers for pinholes caused by iris borer which also bring along a bacterial rot-hence the mushy leaves and probably parts of the tuber. If it is iris borer remove any infected tubers. Check the above question from Lisa as to how to treat it and prevent it next year.

RITA ANDERSON
WHY ARE MY IRISES TURNING ALL BROWN AND DRYED UP LOOKING? WHAT CAN I DO FOR THEM?

It is possible that you have iris borer. Check the tubers, see if there are some soft spots and mushy areas.
Susan Goodwin

September 24th, 2005 at 4:44 am · Reply

STORING IRIS IN WINTER

We are moving in the middle of winter. I would like to take some favorite iris with me. If I dig them up before frost, what can I do to keep the plants healthy until the spring when I can replant them. I live in the northeast mountains where spring comes late.

Dig up your iris, cut back the fans to 3-4 inches and store them in a ventilated container with some peat moss. Keep the box in a cool location such as a basement/crawl space. Occasionally check on the rhizomes to see if they are rotting or shriveling. Toss out any rotting tubers and if shriveling add a touch of water to the peat to hydrate the rhizome and keep it firm.

How do I store Bearded Iris Rhizomes over the winter in updtate NY?

Bearded iris are hardy in your area and can stay in the ground over the winter but if you need to store them indoors for some reason here’s what you do. Dig up your iris, cut back the fans to 3-4 inches and store them in a ventilated container with some peat moss. Keep the box in a cool location(40-50 degrees) such as a basement/crawl space. Occasionally check on the rhizomes to see if they are rotting or shriveling. Toss out any rotting tubers and if shriveling add a touch of water to the peat to hydrate the rhizome and keep it firm.

Shannon ( shannonchau@hotmail.com / )
My friend gave me some beared iris in early May. The ground isn’t ready to plant them until next fall, so they are in flower pots now. I live in Minnesota. Pls advise what should I do to them during winter to make sure they will come back next spring. Should I just leave the iris in the pots and store them in the basement and not water them during winter?

If you can plant them this fall-do so as that is a good time to transplant iris. If you need to store them during the winter - keep them in the pots(as long as the soil is well-drained and light) in a cool location such as a basement/crawl space. Occasionally check on the rhizomes to see if they are rotting or shriveling. Toss out any rotting tubers and if shriveling add a touch of water to hydrate the rhizome. Storing them in a ventilated container in peat moss is the preferred way.
verlie

October 21st, 2005 at 2:59 pm · Reply

I have found that some of my iris product short stunted deformed flowerheads that barely rise above the tuber, other iris in the same bed flower fine. What could be causing this problem? Thanks.

It’s possible the either insect or mechanical injury caused damage to the growing point on the iris resulting in distorted growth.
Debra Grover

June 9th, 2006 at 7:27 am · Reply

GROWING IRIS FROM SEED

Where, when, and how deep do I need to plant the ripened iris seeds?

Growing iris from seeds can be a complex and long process. Plant the seeds in Oct in a peaty seed compost. Cover seed with a 1/4 inch of compost, water and place container outside by a north wall or cold frame for the winter (stratification). They need cold temperatures or refrigertation for 12-14 weeks. Keep compost moist but not wet and protect against mice. In the spring bring your pot indoors/greenhouse. Warm temperatures should trigger germination. If that doesn’t happen keep pot cool & moist through the summer. Seeds will germinate around 60-70 degrees F. and may take 30-545 days. Once germination takes place transplant each seedling into a separate container. For more info go to Backyardgardener.com, Thompson and Morgan.com also have a seed guide that might be of help to you.
Kris

September 10th, 2006 at 9:41 pm · Reply

MULCHING IRIS

I live in central Iowa and in late September I planted iris bulbs and mulched them. We’ve had a pretty mild fall and I noted that my bulbs have sprouted through. Is there something that I need to do to protect them through the winter?

It is recommended that mulching should be done after the ground freezes. Put 4-6 inches of a light mulch such as oak leaves, straw, pine needles or evergreen boughs. Even if your iris are sprouting wait till the ground is frozen to add additional mulch. The purpose of mulching is to keep the group steadily frozen thru the winter so there is no thawing and refreezing. Kris

Allison
do i need to do anything to my iris’ to keep them safe over winter? Do i need to cut back the foliage at all? Some are single bloom while others are reblooming iris’

Cut the leaves back 6-8 inches above the soil line and mulch with straw or evergreen branches after the first frost to keep the roots from freezing . Mulching especially in Northern states will also control the freezing/thawing cycle during the winter which can heave the plant above the soil and cause damage.
Pam Borden

September 23rd, 2006 at 12:15 pm · Reply

DROOPING/FALLING OVER IRIS

My bearded iris blooms well in the spring and has healthy leaves. My only problem is that the stems require support stakes or they fall over. That’s a lot of work and I have not noticed anyone else having to stake irises. Please help!

It’s possible that your iris has longer leaves because of the amount of light. Perhaps yours get more shade and moisture than your neighbors.

Sheryl ( Rloveless@NYCAP.RR.com / )
I planted two bearded iris bulbs two years ago. They came up beautifully each year, except this year they are all drooping to the point that they are actually laying down on the ground. They have plenty of sun, and I water them regularly. What would cause this, and how do I fix it? They are to lovely to lay on the ground. Thank you so much.

Is it possible that you have had a lot of rain? Did you fertilize them this spring? Too much of both can cause the leaves to grow taller than normal. You can stake them to keep the flowers off the ground.
Cela H

July 17th, 2007 at 3:53 pm · Reply

FERTILIZING IRIS
My front yard is full of iris, these plants have been for many years. Is there anything I can feed them to get a healthy bloom. Thanks

If your iris have been in the same spot for more than 3-5 years, chances are they need to be divided because they are overcrowded. The best time to do this is on a cloudy day, after they finish blooming. If the leaves are growing healthy and green, they may not need fertilizer. The recommended fertilizer rate(by U. Ext.) is a 1/2 cup of 5-10-10 for 6 small plants or 1 cup for a large iris clump, or 1/2 lb. of 5-10-10 per sq. ft applied after blooming . Also, try a light (1/2 dose) application in early spring 5-10-10. Apply the fertilizer around the base of the plant and avoid high Nitorgen (first#) fertilizers.

I have dug up , separated and trimmed my iris. Is there a special plant food or other chemical I should prepare the soil with before replanting?

If you have poor soil add a commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-5 (about 1/2 cup for every 6-7 rhizomes) and mix it well into the soil so that it has no contact with the rhizomes . Another option is to spade in compost, well-rooted manure to improve the soil structure and add some nutrien
Nita

August 11th, 2007 at 4:48 pm · Reply

APHIDS ON IRIS

I have a scale or aphid like infestation on my Iris leaves. It is some kind of bug. I rubbed it off on leaf and looked like aphids, but doesn’t look like any aphid I have seen. Any help to get rid of this or what it is would be appreciated.

Aphids do attack iris. These tiny pear shaped or rounded insects come in a number of colors, usually appear in the spring, causing curled and distorted leaves. To treat for aphids spray the plant with insecticidal soap every 3-5 days for two weeks. A stronger alternative is Pyrethrum with alcohol. According to Rodale’s “Flower Garden Problem Sover”-Add 1 tablespoon alcohol to 1 pint of pyrethrum mix. The mixture should contact the aphids to be effective. Be sure they are aphids before spraying, this treatment will do little for scale.

charisse
I started a iris garden about a year ago. Now I noticed that I have these little white bugs on my plants. They crawl around like spiders. They seem to be mostly in the “Y” part of the plant where leaves or stalks for the flowers come off? Can you tell me how to treat these bugs? Will they infest my entire bed?

Hi Charisse
I’m not sure which bug you have on your iris. It may be aphids .
Sara Corey

August 12th, 2007 at 12:30 pm · Reply

DIVIDING IRIS

We bought our home in Spring of 2006. The previous owners had made a beautiful hybrid bearded Iris bed in the shape of an island on one side of the driveway which faces west. The blooms were just terrific that year and this year. The blooms lasted about a month or so, then were all done blooming. I have noticed that the bulbs seem to be mostly above the ground and very, very close together. What do I do with them now(mid August,2007). I have been cutting the leaves off at the ground level, but I have read that I should not be doing this. I think most of the bulbs have been there for at least 10+ years. I have no idea on how to “divide” them. Do I throw away bulbs that I don’t want? I truly need your help in this matter. Thanks. S. Corey, Chicago suburb

Hi Sarah
Now is a good time to divide your iris, especially if they are crowded. Dig under a clump of rhizomes and lift out the whole clump. Wash away the soil and inspect them for any pinholes or soft spots-discard those. Cut each rhizome with a sharp knife making sure each division has at least a fan of leaves and roots (about 3-4″). Before replanting, cut back the leaves to 1/3 of their full height and replant them the same way they were planted. Spread the roots facing downward into the soil and cover with soil , then press firmly in place making sure your rhizome is at soil level or slightly above. Water in thoroughly. Plant a least 3 rhizomes in a triangle or an alternating row pattern; pointing the fan of leaves away from each other. Plant 18-24 inches apart. Closer planting (10-12″) will fill in quicker but will have to be divided more often. Give or exchange the extra bulbs with your friends or neighbors to enjoy.
julie bassard

October 22nd, 2007 at 6:39 am · Reply

we moved into our new home last sept and there is a large circle of really small iris but only a few of them came up, how do i make them fill in? thanks

There are several types of irises; those that grow from rhizomes and others that grow from bulbs. I suspect the small iris are from bulbs. They need full sun and well drained soil rich in organic matter. If the flower bed is declining and failing to bloom, it may be due to the foliage being cut down or dieing too early. Iris need the foliage to die back naturally so that it can replenish the nutrients back to the bulb for next seasons growth. They also need to be dry during the summer, wet soil will rot the bulb. Insects and diseases can also be a cause for the declining bed. You may have to dig up and see what’s happening to the bulbs.
Jillian

April 23rd, 2008 at 12:14 pm · Reply

I would like to know what the gestation period is for Iris bulbs? I planted 6 Iris bulbs, outdoors, in a large pot, back in late October. It’s now the end of April and I haven’t seen any signs of growth. I’ve followed all of the planting instructions and make sure that they get plenty of sunlight and water. Could you tell me when I should see the first signs and if you think there is a possibility they’ll bloom this year?

Iris should be planted in late summer or early autumn to give them enough time to establish a root system before winter. If you live in a colder region, the roots should also be mulched to protect them from the freezing and thawing cycle during the winter months which will harm the roots especially in a container. At this point you will need to wait and see if the transplanted iris have survived. Iris can take a year to adjust after transplanting so they most likely will not bloom this year.
Anna Di Vietri

April 29th, 2008 at 11:14 am · Reply

I have 2 iris beds growing, they are 3 years old, very healthy, one side has buds. Tonight we have a frost coming ,in I live I think in zone 5 or 6, upstate New york, Orange County. Should I cover them and if so with what?

Hi Anna
Cover the tender new growth with a blanket or sheet, avoid plastic as that traps the cold air.
Ray

May 14th, 2008 at 1:08 pm · Reply

I have many Iris beds around my house. All the plants have flowers but the leaves are yellow or are turning yellow. We do have drip irriagtion in all beds. No bugs have been seen. What is causing the leaves to yellow?

Hi Ray,
Several factors can cause yellowing leaves. Iris need well drained soil, if your drip irrigation systems is keeping them too wet, it can lead to fungal or bacterial rot from too wet soil. The stressed out weakend plant can also become susceptible to iris borer which can destroy the plant. In all three cases you will have to remove the plant and if severely infected, burn or destroy the plants and move any healthy rhizomes to another area. Wait till after blooming to asses the problem, as late summer is a good time to redo your iris bed.
Susan Zayhowski

June 22nd, 2008 at 1:53 pm · Reply

Is it ok to mulch around Iris?

Hi Susan
It is better not to mulch during the growing season, it gives insects such as iris borer a place to hide their eggs. If you want to mulch around the plant for aesthetic reasons, then make sure that you don’t cover the rhizome. In cooler climates, mulching is recommended for first season plants after the ground freezes. During the winter the freeze and thaw cycle can heave the rhizome out of the soil. The insulating value of mulches such as evergreen boughs, straw or pine needles, will help temper the freeze/thaw cycle and avoid this problem. Remove it in the spring.
Jana Lawrence

July 24th, 2008 at 9:12 am · Reply

I am in the process of dividing several patches of iris; however, some of the patches had been mixed in color, and I would prefer to put them back in clumps of the same color. Is there any way to tell from the leaves what the color the bloom will be? In this particular case, the iris are, if I remember correctly, entirely white, white w/purple falls or entirely purple. Some of the leaves are a reddish-purple at the bottom, just above the rhizome, so is that indicative of a purple bloom?

Hi Jana
I asked an iris expert and they informed me that there is no way of telling which color the bloom will be by the leaves or rhizomes. I guess you will have to mark each one after bloom.
Wendy

September 19th, 2008 at 8:36 am · Reply

Hi there. I have read the bearded iris posts and don’t see my question, which is pretty specific: It is now mid September here in coastal SE Connecticut. I am planning to move to the Dallas area in a couple of months. At present, I am waiting for my iris to yellow before digging them up. When is the right time for me to replant them down in Texas? I will be shipping them with everything else so won’t have immediate access (or time!) for them. Thank you.

Hi Wendy
You can store your iris until you are ready to plant them in the spring. If the soil is workable and not frozen plant them and cover them with 3″ of mulch.
Dig up yourbearded iris, cut back the fans to 3-4 inches and clean the rhizomes. Once dried, store them in cool (45-50F) area(basement) in a ventilated container with some slightly moistened peat moss, vermiculte, sawdust or shredded newspaper. Occasionally, check on the rhizomes to see if they are rotting or shriveling. Toss out any rotting tubers and if shriveling add a touch of water to the peat to hydrate the rhizome and keep it firm.
Cathy Marshall

October 17th, 2008 at 9:42 am · Reply

STORING IRIS IN WINTER

I was given some iris, and it took me longer to get the area that I was working on ready it is now mid Oct and I live in Maquoketa, Iowa. Can I put them in the ground or do I need to store them for the winter. I was given some really beautiful colors and really want to put them in the ground!

Hi Cathy
It’s a little late, plant the iris immediately into the ground. They need time to establish a root system before freezing weather sets in. Be sure they get enough moisture and after the soil freezes add 3-4 inches of mulch (straw, pine needles, evergreens) to protect the roots from heaving and freezing temperatures. If you don’t want to risk it-store your iris in peat in a cool, dark place @ about 35F (refrigerator or unheated garage) for the winter. Make sure that they don’t dry or shrivel during this time.
Roger Schutt

December 30th, 2008 at 3:10 pm · Reply

We live in Northern California, elevation just under 3,000 feet. Because our Irises didn’t flower much this past spring, the second week of December we dug ‘em up and placed in buckets. That was about 3 weeks ago. Now what?? Can I re-plant now in December (we recently had… and may still get… a bit of snow)?? If NO to re-planting now, how do we keep the rhizomes healthy in the meantime?? And WHEN should we re-plant?? Thanks!!

Hi Roger,
The best time to transplant iris in No. Ca. is in mid July-mid Sept. after bloom. This gives them time to establish a good root system before winter. If temperatures aren’t too cold (freezing) and the soil can be easily worked, plant your iris in the ground. Keep the tubers moist -not wet and add a 1-2″ f mulch on top to maintain even moisture and temperature for root development.
If you can’t plant them at this time, store your iris in a ventilated container with some moistened peat moss. Keep the box in a cool location such as a basement/crawl space. Occasionally check on the rhizomes to see if they are rotting or shriveling. Toss out any rotting tubers and if shriveling add a touch of water to the peat to hydrate the rhizome and keep it firm. The roots should not be allowed to dry out. When the weather warms up in the 40’s (no freeze) plant the tubers in the ground. The sooner you plant them in the ground the better. The iris, most likely, will not bloom this year as they will spend the growing season establishing a root system but don’t be surprised if you get a bloom.
Faith Scheerle

January 6th, 2009 at 10:07 am · Reply

I was given some 20 yr old iris bulbs, after winter set in. I put them in pots and put them in a cool place. They are coming up-what should I do to them now?

Hi Faith
Is there a cooler spot without light that you can keep your iris until you can plant them outdoors? Warmer temperatures and moisture will encourage them to continue growing. How far along are the plants? If you have 3 inch starts then you can still try to keep them at bay in a cooler environment.
Chad

April 13th, 2009 at 2:17 pm · Reply

I have transplanted my iris from a shady location to a sunny one. I transplanted them in the spring which i’m told mas not the right choice. the leaves are above ground and are now drooping. Is there anything I can do to save them? also i may have put to many in the bed thus overcrowing them. Should I transplant again in late summer? I live in zone 7/8. Please help I love irises and would hate to think i was the cause of the demise of my irises.

Hi Chad
If they survive transplant them after they are done blooming in late summer (chances are they won’t bloom this year). Make sure they get enough moisture during the hot season. When you transplant them in summer/fall they will have time to re-establish a good root system during the cool winter months.

See comments on Transplanting iris on 6/7/2005 Jone D.
Maggie

April 27th, 2009 at 7:48 am · Reply

I was wanting to know if it would be ok to plant bearded Iris around the deck of my above ground pool? My concern is that the clorine in the water may kill them! Any Advice would be gratefuly appreciated.

Hi Maggie
According to Clemson U. Normal use of splashed pool water generally has no effect on nearby plants.
michelle

May 17th, 2009 at 12:02 pm · Reply

Powdery mildew
I have lots of iris’s and right now they have white spots that look like powder on the the leaves. Some type of fungus im sure. Could you tell what causes this and how to take care of it.

It sounds like powdery mildew on the leaves. They may need more air ciculation.
michelle

May 18th, 2009 at 8:27 am · Reply

One more question….I recieved a shipment of iris’s friday and my husband is the person that does all the planting and he planted the new iris’s that came in is that a no no?

Hi Michelle
It’s fine to plant iris in spring. You may or may not get flowers this year.
Mesha Davis

May 28th, 2009 at 9:52 pm · Reply

I have several varieties of beautiful bearded iris in the large rock garden at the entrance to our property. There are numerous other flowering perennials and small shrubs in the garden also. As the irises grow (2 yrs. now) they are very showy in spring, and some are twice blooming in fall, but their foliage is taking up a lot of space! Should I remove all of them to another location, or let them stay mixed with other plants? I have never grown irises before, and am not sure of their favorite growing habit. Also, can I cut some of the foliage back without sacrificing next year’s bloom?
I don’t currently have another location that is cultivated for them, but want to do the best thing long-term for all the plants.
Thanks so much!

Hi Mesha
Because the rhizome are on the surface of the soil, iris are usually grown in their “own” area but can be mixed with other plants. Iris will usually need division after 3 years of growth. If yours are crowded and need to be separated wait till after they are done blooming before doing anything. In July/Aug you can dig up the rhizomes and separate them. It’s not a good idea to cut off the foliage as the foliage is what replenishes the rhizomes for next year’s bloom. Iris like well drained soil and full to part shade.
Patrice

June 25th, 2009 at 4:51 pm · Reply

I planted Iris 2 years ago in the summer I think I planted them to deep as they come up nicely but they never bloom.When and how do I fix this problem,

Hi Patrice
In late summer (Mid-July-Sept) dig up the tuber and replant it. Plant the rhizome tops right at the soil level and point the growing tips outward of the circle or triangle, 12 to 24 inches apart. Cut the leaves to 1/3 of their full height.
Other factors that may cause your iris not to bloom is not enough sun and excess fertilizer. Make sure that they are in a sunny location. The more shade the less flowers. If they are getting too much fertilizer especially Nitrogen, it will cause lots of leaf growth at the expense of flowers.
Al

June 26th, 2009 at 10:31 am · Reply

can I send you a picture of my problem–based on the comments I have read concern browning and yellowing leaves–it sounds like I have borers, eye spot, over crowding–in effect the works — the iris bed is well over 5 years old and the blooms were beautiful this year as usual– however, with all the rain we have been having many of the leaves are turning brown, starting at the tips and eventually distroyng the whole leaf–looks like a dried tobacco leaf-brown and wrinkled. Any and all suggestions will be welcomed–including starting from scratch — interested in which chemicals, when to do what-etc.

Hi Al
It sounds like your iris bed needs rejuventation. Time to start a new iris bed. Iris need to be thinned and separated every 3-5 years. A crowded bed will reduce blooming as well as invite diseases. When digging up your tubers, carefully check for soft, soggy spots(bacterial sof t rot). Remove and destroy. You can rebuild your bed right after they are finished blooming.
Vivian Catt

June 28th, 2009 at 5:32 pm · Reply

Seed pods
What are the pods that grow on the end of the flower stalk?

Hi Vivian
The pods are seed pods which will mature, turn brown and have seed enclosed inside.