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Christmas Cactus

CHRISTMAS CACTUS

One of the more popular flowering plants around the holidays is the Schlumbergera bridgesii better known as the Christmas cactus. It offers a profusion of tubular flowers that bloom for two to four weeks around Christmas time.

xmas cactus

Originating from Brazil, this jungle cactus lives on trees and is different from the desert cactus in that it is the trailing type and does not require direct sunlight. At times there can be confusion as to which type of Schlumbergera you have. Christmas cacti have flattened leaves with scallop-edged margins that are smooth and spineless with tubular 3 inch flowers, as opposed to the Thanksgiving cactus (Zygocactus truncates)(S. truncatus) crab cactus, which has sharply toothed edges with two large teeth at the end of the last joint on each branch. and shorter tubed flowers with spreading pointed petals. To add to this confusion there is also the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) which grows more upright, has fibrous hairs at the joints and produces different flowers. It is the more difficult one to grow. All bloom close to their respective holidays under normal growing conditions.

Christmas cactus care

Not only are these cacti so popular because of their spectacular blooming habit but also because they are relatively easy to care for. They require a rich, well drained soil, bright indirect light and a daytime temperature of 70 degrees and night temperature of 60-65. Feed it with a balanced houseplant fertilizer between April and October. Christmas cactus is not drought tolerant. Water the plants thoroughly and let them dry out between watering. Do not ignore it or kill it with kindness. The leaves will wrinkle if the soil is too dry and when over watered which can lead to root rot. Water less in the winter. Prune the plants in the summer to encourage more branching by pinching off at the joints.

When the plants are in bloom keep the plant moderately moist (not too wet). If the leaves get limp and flabby you may be overwatering the plant. Place the plant in bright light and temperatures (60-70F). Too much light can fade the flowers. Do not expose them to direct heat, cold drafts or move the plant around as that can cause the flower buds to drop. Fertilize lightly with a high potassium fertilizer when the buds form and continue until the flowers fade. When the plant is finished blooming withhold water for 6 weeks allowing it to rest. In early spring, when new growth starts to show, resume feeding and watering.

Reblooming

With a little effort and understanding, one can repeat the flowering process year after year. There are two important factors that encourage bud formation 1. Long nights - Christmas cactus requires at least 14 hours of darkness for 5-6 weeks. 2. Prolonged cool temperatures of 50-55 degrees for 6 weeks. If kept at 55F, some Christmas cacti will bloom regardless of daylength. Bud formation will not happen if temperatures are above 70 degrees. Keep the plant on the dry side until you see buds form, then resume normal watering and light feeding.

Give your Christmas cactus a little love and care and it will flourish for years. Some do so well that they have been known to be passed down in families for generations.

Thanksgiving cactus cutting
The stem cuttings can be rooted and started as new plants.

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69 comments to Christmas Cactus

  • M. Kinney

    Rooting from cuttings

    need advise on how to start new ones from mine.
    How do you root a christmas Cactus?

    From the healthy plant, take a stem cutting of two to three joined segments.

    Allow them to dry out for a few hours to a day and plant in a 3″ pot in a soil mix of 50 peat and 50 sand or 70% perlite and 30%peat. Place in a plastic bag and keep moist (not wet) in a warm shaded spot. In 4-6 wks you should have new roots and there should be signs of new shoot growth. Once the roots develop plant in a well drained potting soil mix. Cuttings root best when taken in spring and summer.

    paula
    will it be ok to take cuttings now (Sept) from my Christmas catcus to start a new plant, or will it interfere with the blooming process?

    Unless you have some broken off stems, taking cuttings at this time (Sept) will interfere with the blooming process. With cooler weather and shorter days, the plant should be starting to set buds. It is best to take cuttings after blooming.

    Lou Laning ( mrlou3@ptd.net / )
    I loved the info shared in this site and found it answered my questions. I do however have one more question. I intend to start new plant from my cactus, from reading your responses I gather the best time to do this is early spring. I will pinch off two sections and plant them in a potting soil mix as described. My question is, How deeply should the “cutting” be planted in the mix?

    Hi Lou
    Plant it 1-1 1/2″ deep, just enough to hold the cutting in the soil. The cutting should produce roots at the base (end) of each segment.

  • Nancy Topper

    I have a Christmas Cactus that has gotten wood like on the stems. How can this be fixed? is my poor plant a gonner? Help I really like my plant

    The woody stems are part of aging. Your plants not a gonner, it will send off new shoots. ic: Christmas Cactus

  • Janet

    My christmas cactus has wrinkled leaves.How do I know if it’s too dry or over watered???

    Christmas cactus (somewhat of a misnomer)is an ephiphyte-a tropical plant that likes to grow in humid jungles. It is not as tolerant of drought conditions as the typical desert cactus. It will wilt (wrinkle) under drought conditions. You are probably underwatering it. Water when the top 1inch of the soil feels dry. During the summer, water so that the soil is continuously moist but not wet. Let the water drain out from the bottom of the pot. Water less in the fall and winter.

  • Jan Reid

    My Christmas cactus, started from my grandmother’s, has been spectacular. 4 ft. stems with hundreds of blossoms twice per year like clockwork. But now the stems are dying at an alarming rate and few stems are longer than 18 in. I don’t know what is wrong. They start turning yellow green and purple and then die. HELP!

    Large older plants can get a stem rot that will cause part of the stem to die back. Make sure that the soil is still well drained and the water moves through it quickly-if not it may be time to repot. The plant may be pot bound and needs fresh new soil. When you repot wait one week before watering to allow any injured roots or stems to callus over preventing further diseases.

  • Elizabeth Romeo

    Can I delay the blooming of my cactus by placing it in a dark closet. The buds have already formed. Am I too late?

    It is too late, once the buds have formed its too late. Bud formantion starts when days get shorter and nights are cooler. Many “Christmas Cactii” are really Thanksgiving cactii which bloom around Thanksgiving. You can slow down bloom by keeping the plant in cooler temperatures.

  • Tesa Ivey

    BUD DROP & LEAF DROP

    HELP!!! My christmas cactus was full of buds and now after moving it inside the sections are dropping off. #-4 joint sections with clean breaks at the joints. Can this be from not enough light?

    It may be stress related-a change in the environment, too much water, dry heat can cause leaf drop. Keep it away from heating vents or cold drafts. Check the base of the stem to see if it is soft and “mushy” that can indicate a root rot, in which case only new cuttings will save the plant. If there is no root rot wait till spring, it may send out new shoots. Be sure not to overwater as they like it dry in the winter.

  • Rick

    Hi, I have a Christmas cactus that has formed fruits, I’ve had it for ten years and this is the first time I have seen this. The plant was a clipping from a freinds that was passed down to her from several generations. Is the fruit edible?

    I don’t know if the fruit is edible. The attractive fruit is 1″ long and should remain on the plant for a year. After which, you can pick it and squeeze out the jelly of seeds and let them dry on a paper towel for a few days. Then you can plant the seeds in a seedling mix to produce new plants.

  • John Showers

    We kept our Xmas cactus inside with direct light & no sun and it was doing nothing.Got discouraged and put it outside - it now gets indirect light and our temperatures are low 30’s at night & 50-6-’s in the day, & it is all of a sudden blooming like crazy. It started blooming in December and is still blooming. Is there anything different I should do or just leave it where it is at. Note, our summers get to over 100 degrees - is it still okay to leave it where it is at?

    Be careful so the it doesn’t get “nicked” by frost around 50’s at night is recommended but sounds like your plant is happy where it is. Protect it from the extreme heat in the summer by placing it in the shade.

  • esther

    Can a christmas cactus be planted in a self watering pot. I just bought one a couple of weeks ogo. the leaves are looking a little wilted in the self watering pot?

    Good question. They like it on the dry side during the winter and moist,well drained soil in the summer. Since they are a tropical epiphytes that hang under trees in the jungle, they would get their water briefly from the rain and then dry up. I would think a well-drained potting soil would be more suitable for your Christmas cactus.

  • Sylvia Saunders

    My Christmas Catcus has bloomed every year since I have had it but it does not look healthy because the leaves have turned reddish. Is there some way to correct this or should I just not worry?

    Leaves that are turning pinkish/red and are wilted can be a sign of rot. Carefully, knock the plant out of the pot and check the base of the stems. Are they soft and mushy? If so, there is some rot there. Cut the decay back to healthy firm tissue and repot. Keep it on the dry side during the winter.

  • Lucille Rudnicki

    EDEMA (OEDEMA)

    My christmas cactus is heathy looking and still blooms. I have been getting these purplish blister/bumps on the leaves lately, and then they scab up when they age. What is this? A bug I hope not… Help!!!

    It’s possible that you may be watering your Christmas cactus too much. The bumps which eventually turn into a brown corky growth may be a sign of edema . This environmental condition happens when the plant is overwatered. The water moves rapidly up to the leaves but the plant can’t transpire it fast enough causing the cells to burst. The broken cells heal over and develop corky brown spots. Keep it on the dry side and be sure it has adequate drainage.

  • Emily Olson

    Xmas cactus not blooming
    I rescued a christmas cactus about 4 years ago. I had no idea how to care for it and I am still having problems with it. I have my house temp set around 65F all day long. The plant is sitting in indirect sunlight on the south side of the house. It gets watered only when it’s soil is very dry. 4-5 months ago one of my cats tipped it off the shelf and fell 4-5 ft to the floor. 2-3 segements were broken off close to the roots and now from those spots there is 2-3 in of new growth starting. I am really happy about this but I just can’t seem to get this plant to bloom no matter what I do. I have also subjected it to closet life for weeks and let it dry out too. What can I do?

    The major factor in getting a Christmas cactus to bloom is cool temperatures and long nights. They bloom when the days get shorter and nights longer. The temps for flower bud is 55-60 for 6 wks.. In higher temperatures, they can be coaxed to blooming with 13 hrs. of uninterrupted darkness. Its best to have a combination of both. Set the plant outdoor in a shady area over the summer and bring it in the fall as the weather gets cooler and days are shorter. It should work.

  • sherry

    how do i transplant chrismas catus

    Carefully, knock out the root ball from the pot and re-pot in a porous soil mix by adding 1 part peat moss or sand to 3 parts potting soil mix. You can also use potting mix for succulent plants. The new pot should be 1 inch larger with a drainage hole.

  • Marcee

    When is the best time to re-pot a Christmas Cactus. Mine, I think, is getting
    a little too big for it’s pot. I live in the desert and it loves its spot in indirect light and blooms like mad for months.

    Best time to repot is in the spring when the plant is ready to grow again or after blooming. Repotting in the fall may disrupt the blooming cycle due to the stress produced by repotting.

  • Darlene

    Hi - thank goodness someone seems to be a Christmas Cactus expert. I too have one of sentimental value. It is about 10 years old - has been repotted a few times over the years. Always been indoors. This summer, I put outside under a porch umbrella. After a month or two, I noticed the ends very flat and starting to turn purple. I repotted - brought back indoors to it’s regular spot and clipped off some of the purple brackets. Now more are purple/green and it doesn’t seem to be firming up. Tell me what I need to do and what I did wrong.

    The purple leaves sound like a mineral deficiency. It may need a fertilizer that supplies both major nutrients as well as trace minerals. Fall is the time of year when you cut back on fertilizing but in your case, I would give it one light dose 1/4 strenght of a well-balanced soluble fertilizer to satiate this hungry plant. After blooming, let it go dormant (no fertilizer) and start feeding monthly with 1/4 strength fertilizer when new growth starts in the early spring continuing through early fall.

  • Nancy Bork

    How long should a christmas cactus be kept in the dark to help it bloom? I have it in a totally dark closet where it is cool. Its been in the closet about a month and a half. I don’t take it out of the closet at all.

    Hi Nancy
    Christmas cactus need about 14 hrs of darkness and cooler temperatures. The stimulus that makes them bloom is short days and long nights. They still need filtered sunlight during the day, so you really do need to bring your plant out of the closet during the day.

  • Michele Calvin

    I have a Christmas Cactus that I divided some of the stem into other pots to make more plants. They all seem to be fading. and not growing at all. I planted them in the Cactus soil. I only water themwhen they feel dry. What could be the problem why thery’re looking like thery’re not growing?

    When were they divided? In the fall? Did they have a root system? It is better to divide the plant in early spring just before it goes on a growth spurt. Your plants need time to establish a good roots and winter is a slow growing period. In fact the plant goes into a dormant period as late as March. During the winter keep them on the cool and dry side, away from heat vents or cold drafts. In early spring start to feed with 1/4 strength fertilizer.

  • P Rutland

    Are these plants safe if pets or small children eat them?

    Christmas cactus are listed as non-toxic or having a low toxicity level when ingested in small quantities. If large quantities are eaten then it can cause vomiting, diarrhea and mental depression.

  • Eileen Haag

    My christmas cactus is in full bud…how long do these buds take to burst open for a full bloom? It seems like I have seen these buds with color peaking out for 2 weeks…I’m anxious for the full bloom!
    Thanks, Eileen

    What sometimes happens is that the buds form but for some reason, usually environmental, will sit there dry up or drop and not open. This can happen when the room is too dry (low humidity) and temperatures are too high. To add more humidity around the plant put it in a pebble tray of water and mist the plant. Keep the room temperatures around 65-70 F. Keep away from heating vents or cold drafts. Once they set bud the plant does not like to be moved.

  • Alice Cunningham

    My Christmas Cactus was started by my mother to me as a wedding gift over 28 years ago. It has developed a white substance at every joint and looks very unhappy. Can I save it? It is also spreading to other cactus.

    Sounds as if you might have an insect problem. Is the white stuff fluffy and cottony looking? If so, you may have mealy bugs. Look the the mealy bug article.

  • Karen Fournier

    INSECT PROBLEM
    I have a very huge old (10 years?) Christmas Cactus that has had something eating SLOWLY at a few select leaves. I’ve tried a number of insecticides without success. It now has white flies I can’t get rid of. It appears to be loosing leaves and did not bloom this year. I replant it regularly as necessary. HELP! I love this plant

    Is your Christmas cactus outdoors? Whiteflies are difficult insect to get rid of indoors. A safe method is to hang yellow or blue sticky cards on the plant or on stakes to attract and trap the adult population of whiteflies. The sticky cards are available at garden centers. Be sure not to touch it or get it on your clothes. As for the rest of the younger population, spray the plant and soil surface with horticultural oil. Repeat treatment in 7-10 days until you no longer see the insect. Whitefly will spread from plant to plant therefore you should isolate the infested plant. I had deer eat my whole plant leaving only stubs.

  • Elmer L Johnson

    I’m wondering if it is possible to save our 2 christmas cactus over the summer (mid May
    to mid Nov) with no one here. We live in a condo with a lania facing SE in Bonita Springs FL during the winter.
    My concept is to set up an automatic watering system and keep them on the lania facing
    the sun but with a shade that moderates the amount of direct sun. They would otherwise be
    unattended. The temperatures would probably reach low 90’s during the day and the
    humidity would be high.
    If feasible, about how much water would they require and how often? Thanks for any help
    you can provide. Lee

    Hi Lee
    Christmas cactus are a jungle plants that like warm, humid,semi- shaded areas. It would be difficult for your plants to survive on the lanai all alone with no one to care for them. They need protection from the hot midday sun, need to be fertilized when actively growing and most of all, need proper watering. You cannot make a plant adapt to your watering schedule - just as we drink when thirsty so do plants. There are too many variables to consider ; Christmas cactus likes evenly moist soil, but needs to dry out between waterings. If you have a humid, rainy week, then it will not require as much water than a hot, sunny week. My suggestion is to find a friend who would be kind enough to care for your plants or take them with you. If that is not feasable, look into local greenhouses and see if they will “plantsit” your cactus for a nominal charge.

  • Rachel

    COLD DAMAGE

    Several days ago my Christmas Cactus got left on the porch and was exposed to temps in the low 30s. It is usually kepy between 50-60 degrees. Over the last several days, the smaller leaves and some of the newer growth has begun to wilt. Some of the leaves look ok. Is there a chance for the rest of the plant, or will the wilting spread? Is there anything I can do for the parts that still appear healty?

    New growth is more susceptible to cold damage than mature growth. If the new growth hasn’t recovered or perked up by spring time, cut back the spindly growth (up to two segments) which will encourage your plant to send out new growth and make a fuller plant. Because the leaves are wilted you may have a tendency to water but be sure to keep the plant on the dry side during its dormant period (6weeks from blooming) otherwise you can cause root rot problems.

    Cynthia Clark
    I had my cactus on my front porch and I was away visiting a sick friend in the hospital I had told my husband to bring it inside because there was going to be a cool snap. When I got home it was 21 degrees and he had forgot my cactus, it now has got real droopy and looks dark green I suppose it froze is there anything I can do to save it. It was in full bloom.

    Sorry to hear that. Nothing you can do. If the leaves get soft and mushy then they were frozen.

  • Alfie and Maria

    We have an easter cactus that has developed a tan coating on the bottom section of each branch. It doesn’t look woody, and it doesn’t look like the pictures we have seen of edema. We have not seen any bugs either. (It has lost some branches lately too, but we changed our watering schedule and that has seemed to help as far as branches falling off.) What could this tan near the base be? Is there something we need to do about it?

    Check the tan area and see if the stem is still firm, not soft and spongy. If the plant is healthy and firm then it is just maturing tissue, if the plant has soft stems and looks sickly then you may have a fungal canker, fusarium stem rot or fusarium crown rot which shows decayed, brown dried tissue in the lower trunk which will eventually kill the plant. All caused by too much moisture. If your plant keeps declining take some cuttings of the healthy parts and start new plants. Watch the watering keep it on the dry side in the winter.

  • Julie

    I recieved a part of my husbands Great Grandmother’s Christmas Cactus. His mother told me that she has not been able to get it to bloom for the past couple of years. Every since I recieved my part of the cactus I cannot get it to grow. At first she had it potted in a huge pot, I was told to repot into a smaller pot. I did and I still cannot get the plant to grow. It now has a woody look to the steam area. I have read that you’re supposed to have sand or moss in the mixture. I never did that. I have had this plant for almost 2 years. I am afarid that it’s going to be to late for it. Can I still save it? What can I do to get it to grow and bloom?!

    The type of soil it needs is 50% peat and 50% sand or any well drained standard mix soil with 25% peat or sand added to the soil mix. If it drains freely then it should be ok. Most problems that arise with Christmas cactus are from overwatering. Keep the plant on the dry side and cool thru the winter away from direct sun and heating vents as it is in a semi-dormant stage. It should show some signs of growth in the spring, when it does give it a light dose of a balanced fertilizer once a month during the growing season. If you want to repot do it in the spring. You can also take a few cuttings and root them to make new plants. The woody stem can be maturing tissue or fungal canker from too much moisture. If the plant doesn’t show signs of new growth then there may be root rot damage and you may want to take stem cuttings. See the article above for blooming

  • Elaine Granica

    I have an old (20+ years) Christmas cactus. It is large, 3 foot diameter, and has woody stems and is very full. It has been happy, growing and flowering well. I usually put it outside in the rain once in the summer so the leaves can get cleaned from dust and dirt. I put it out this summer and about 2 weeks later the leaves started to fall off in huge sections. It had not been repotted in 10 years, so I repotted it in the recommened soil into a larger pot. It was extremely root bound. It seems happier in the new pot but it is still loosing leaves. The leaves appear green and healthy. I am afraid I will end up with woody stems and no green leaves. Is this just stress or is my cactus just old and dying?

    It’s more likely to be stress. It’s possible that your cactus had too much water. Hopefully it doesn’t have root rot which can also cause huge sections to fall off. Check at the base of the woody stems, if they are soft and mushy then you have root rot if not then let your plant recover on its own. Take the cuttings(fallen leaves) and root then for new plants.

  • Robin

    I have a white Christmas Cactus that is a light green/yellowish color. The plant seems to be healthy and strong. I am wondering if it was out in direct sun too long and got bleached? How can I correct this. I have placed it in the back of my apartment (well shaded patio) and it seems to be less light. It has blooms and everything.

    On some varieties the leaves are a little lighter especially the white/pink colors. Place it in a shaded area (like you did) and it should green up a bit. Fertilize in early spring after the plant is done resting (dormant), that may also help.

  • Robin

    Was curious how you can pollinate a Christmas cactus flower to so that you can produce seeds.

    Yes, you can pollinate the flower when it starts to bloom and is producing pollen. Take a small brush and transfer the pollen to the pistil(in the center) of the flower. You will know if fertilization took place when the base of the flower starts to swell and form a pod. The pod will mature into a bright pink color 1/2″ long with dark brown to black seeds inside. Some hybrids are sterile.

  • Brenda Southall

    Flower color change

    I inherited my mother in laws Christmas cactus plant 3 years ago. A piece fell off about two years ago and I rerooted it, later another piece fell off and I rerooted that one. The original one has red blooms and the other two , one has white blooms and the other has pink blooms. They are both from the red one. All are doing beautiful. My question is, why did the other two bloom a white and a pink?
    Sincerely, Brenda Southall

    Sometimes a plant will send out a sport (mutation), which will produce a different leaf or flower color. A change in flower color can also be caused by growing temperatures, amount of light, nutrients.

    Hugh Landes ( hlandes@verizon.com / )
    I started a cutting from a yellow Christmas cactus. It has done well and now the blooms are coming in pink. Where did the yellow go

    According to Uof I ext.Light and temperature can affect the color of the blooms. Also the weaker gene reverted to the more dominant pink gene. Cooler temperatures can enhance the color.

  • Robin

    I have light purplish-red growth on my Christmas Cactus. I have repotted it and checked the roots for root rot - Everything checked out ok. The plant seems healthy and bloomed like crazy this past season. I am wondering if it might be due to too much or lack of insufficient light.

    A Christmas cactus will develop reddish leaves when it gets too much sun. The purplish color on the leaves can be a sign of a nutrient deficiency such as phosphorous or manganese. When the plant shows signs of new growth, feed your plant with a balanced fertilizer that includes minor elements.

  • Johnna

    some of The leaves on my Christmas Cactus have turned a almost white color and get very limp. It got buds but they did not bloom just fell off. Hope you can help me.
    Thanks

    If the leaves are chlorotic (whitening) in the center of the plant - it may be due to low soil temperatures during the fall and winter. If the foliage turns a dull gray/green color and wilts, then you may have a pythium rot (stem rot) wich will cause abscission of the stems (stem drop).

  • Barbara

    I have my grandmother’s Christmas Catus. It is 50+ years old. I’ve had it for about 3 years - it has neither flowered or shown any growth. This Spring I put it outside for the first time - the leaves turned yellow and branches fell off. I believe that was from too much sun. I moved the plant into my screened in porch - repotted it and now it’s “stable” but not doing anything. What’s left is very woody branches about 6-8 inches long. It used to be huge. Is there anyway to save this plant - it means so much to me.

    Hi Barbara
    Check the woody branches - are the soft and spongy? If they are firm, then its mature stems that developed over time. Since you’ve had it for 3 yrs and it hasn’t shown any growth, then I suspect there is a root rot or dieback problem caused by either a bacteria or fungus. These can develop from keeping the plant to moist. If the stems are soft, dig up a section, check the roots. They may be dark , mushy and very sparse. There is no cure so try to save part of the plant by propagating it. Cut above the rotting portion to be sure all decay is removed and try to re-root the section to start a new plant. You can also cut off leaf (cladophylls) sections and re-root them. Plant the newly rooted segments in sterile soil. I wish I had better news for you.

  • Laura

    We can’t remember how many years ago we re-potted our huge 50+ yr old Christmas Cactus. It looks a little limp. It is already in a large pot and we would prefer not to go larger as it is already a challenge to move inside or out as the seasons change.
    Do you have any pruning advice or advice that would help prevent the plant from getting root bound in it’s current size pot? Can you prune roots? Would you control the branch length by pruning them by say half their length?
    Thanks for your advice! :)
    Laura

    HI Laura
    You can prune off some of the new growth up to two segments. It’s best to do this after bloom in spring . Root pruning is a more drastic measure and with a 50+ yr old plant can be risky. Try topdressing-this is a process of removing the top 1 or 2 inches of surface soil and replacing it with a fresh light soil mix.

  • Maxie X

    It appears I have a unique issue with my Christmas cactus. It has roots growing from each “joint” between sections all the way up the leaf branches. There are no distinguished “stems”. The leaves have become even more purple than they were. I just purchased the plant this year so it’s young, I potted it with potting soil, however the pot may have been too small. I put mulch in the bottom for drainage. I just re-potted now. The soil was very loose and damp, not soggy. There didn’t seem to be any roots to this plant under the soil. They didn’t appear to be overcrowded at all. Very odd, it’s almost as if I planted this plant upside down!

    Hi Maxie
    Christmas cactus will send out rootlets between the leaf branches. These can be cut off and propagated for new plants. Purple leaves can be a sign of a trace mineral deficiency but it also sounds as if the roots were not growing well.-probably some root rot going on. So you did good by transplanting it into new soil. The new fresh well-drained soil should help with the trace mineral problem and the plant should root better. Be sure not to overwater the plant.

  • Jane

    I have a Christmas Cactus that I transplanted to larger pot in May outside; live in Southern Cal. It is now blooming in July. Why? I thought they bloomed in December.

    Hi Jane
    Bloom time can be manipulated with some plants. In order to set bud Christmas cactus needs 13 hrs of uninterrupted darkness at night OR a temperature range of 55 at night and below 65F during the day for a six week period. Perhaps you fulfilled that requirement and that’s why its blooming in July.

  • Joan Keeting

    Yes, I have a question. On one of the stems of my Christmas cactus the leaves have turned yellow -
    What can I do?

    HI Joan
    Could that part of the plant be exposed to direct sun? If so, Christmas cactus don’t like direct sun and the leaves will yellow and then white from sunburn.

  • Prairie Avens

    My Christmas cactus has done great up until now. It has bloomed every year and seemed to be happy until a month or so ago. All the leaves have wilted to a sickly green and the veins have popped out. I have watered it at intervals and the base of the stems aren’t mushy. I don’t know what to do…please help!

    Hi
    It may be a watering problem- underwatering can make the leaves wilt and look dried up. I forgot to water my Christmas cactus and it was all shriveled, it recovered after a few careful waterings and being outdoors. Water more during the summer to keep the soil moist. This will depend on sun, humidity and temperatures. It is also possible that you have been overwatering? Eventhough the base is not mushy the roots may be rotting. Is this plant indoors? Has it been in air conditioning (cooler temps)? Has this plant put on any new growth during the summer?

  • Anna

    Propagating Christmas cactus cuttings

    My moms Christmas cactus is dying… I transplanted to help but nothing has improved. Mom passed away in April and no one tended to the plants so thinking lack of sunshine and ?1st I burned it in the direct sun, and since it was too dry to quick fix.. I overwatered it in the non-draining pot. So I thought transplant and do it right but it might be too late I’m afraid. I’m thinking it got root rot. Is it possible to take a cutting although they don’t look to good and possibly save it? The pic above shows a Y cutting with 3 segments. I’m sorry for being so stupid about this; but I have to ask… am I cutting this into 3 separate cuttings on the one side and another cutting for the other side of the Y? My reasoning…. how would that cutting stand up for rooting in 1 1/2″ soil? I wanted to try water rooting; how much of the leaf is submersed in water? (to prevent rotting)
    I managed to save the one plant that had the drainage hole and its recovering from the sunburn nicely. But I would really like to help the other as well..
    Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
    Thank You Anna

    Hi Anna
    The whole Y-segment should be planted. You need 2-3 segmentst of a cutting for good results. Let the cutting dry for a few hours and place 1/4-1/3 of the main straight stem into a pre-moistened peat/sand/perlite mix. You can also dip the cut end in rooting hormone but its not neccessary. Let the soil dry between watering to keep the cuttings from rotting. It should root in 2-3 weeks. E.spring is the best time to do this as in winter the plant is slow to root. So I would wait to do this. Rooting in water can cause mushy and rotting stems.

  • kathy

    LAST YEAR I TOOK SEGEMENTS FOR STARTING NEW PLANTS. I TOOK GREAT CARE TO LABEL THE SEGMENTS BY COLOR. THE ONES I LABELED AS PINK HAVE GROWN TO BEAUTIFUL PLANTS BUT THEIR COLOR IS LIPSTICK RED.
    DO CHRISTMAS CACTUS CHANGE COLOR ?

    Hi Kathy
    Yes Christmas cactus can change color due to light, temperature, nutrients and soil ph. Some color genes are weaker than others and flowers will revert to the weaker gene color.

  • Maureen Leary

    Actually, I think I have a Thanksgiving Cactus as it is already blooming.
    My question is: What do I do about the blooms? Do they fall off on their own or do I have to pinch them off when they are finished?
    Also, my cactus seems to do quite well so far by being very dry? Should I water more to make sure it continues to thrive?
    Thanks.

    Hi Maureen
    The blooms on your Thanksgiving cactus will dry up and fall off. If you don’t like to wait till they fall off just pinch them off. During the blooming period, water your cactus just enough to keep it from wilting (wrinkly leaves)and drying out. Purdue U. recommends watering when the top 1/2 of the soil in the container is dry. Careful not to overwater, err on the dry side especially since yours is doing so well. Once the plant is finished blooming withhold water for 6 weeks allowing it to rest. When you see new growth start watering and feed it with 1/4 strenght fertilizer

  • Daniel

    Hello,

    My christmas cactus has some pink bumps, that seem like bud forming, they are where the flowers usually come from, I am so excited. But are these really floweer buds, they are about milimeter big, but hard, are these really flower buds?

    Hi Daniel
    Yes, those are flower buds! Keep the plant away from heating vents and cold drafts. Water, when the pot feels light and top inch feels dry. Keep the soil moist but be careful not to overwater.

  • Daniel

    Im Very glad to hear that! Here in Canada the day are getting shorter. The plant is gettin cooler due to the draft from the window. My room doen’t get vented or heated in the winter so everything is going to great. I will have to watch the watering though, some leafs are a bit floppy

  • Francisco37388

    I have had 2 cacti for years with no problems. They spend the summers on the front porch with a southern exposure - bright light and little sun. In order to get mine to bloom, I leave them outside until a freeze is predicted, then bring them into the cooler part of the house. By then they have flower buds forming. The longer they stay cool, the longer the bloom lasts. I don’t worry about extended hours of darkness. It seems that by leaving them outside as long as possible, and then bringing them inside, it creates a ‘hothouse-type’ environment which forces it to eventually bloom. Mine have never failed to bloom. I guess I’m pretty lucky with this after reading everyone else’s misfortunes. Mine are 10+ years old. I’ve taken numerous cuttings through the years for friends.

  • Daniel

    Hello, me again

    Its been about over a week or so since I posted about the pink bumps on my cactus. They haven’t grown any bigger. I put the plant on a brighter location and spray it every morning, just the foliage.

    Is it normal for it them to take long to start developing into large buds, or am i doing something wrong,or is it too late to fix them. Please answer my question, I don’t want to lose the buds :(

    Hi Daniel
    It takes a while for the buds to develop but if you don’t see any change in the buds then there may be a problem with the plant. Make sure it has enough humidity but don’t bother spraying the plant. If you need to increase humidity, place your plant on a pebble tray filled w/ water, this should increase the humidity around the plant. In addition, keep the plant away from any cold drafts or heating vents.

  • Anita Gayle

    Hi, Kris! I have been following your site for awhile now and today just confused me. Not that you are wrong because I do not know anything about the “Zygos” but last year I was given what must be a Thanksgiving cactus because it is now budding and blooming all over. My quandary is that I did not do anything special with it. I do live up in the mountains and it never gets very hot so that was a plus. I have used regular house plant fertilizer but other wise just kinda left it alone. IIt has blossoms about 2/12″ long in a white (I was told it would be (cream) but I like the white much better I think. Tomorrow I was going to move it into the living room for the center piece at noon meal. I am afraid now that if I take it in there it will drop all its buds and blossoms. What is your advice in this unusual circumstance. It was a novelty to see this article today. You may have saved my little pretty.
    TYIA and I will be looking forward for your reply.
    Gayle

    Hi Anita
    You can carefully move your Christmas cactus as a centerpiece, after all it should be enjoyed in all its glory when in bloom. The reason I mentioned avoid moving it is when the buds starts to set, they orientate to a light source and moving the plant may force them to redirect causing the buds to “break off”. This is not a major factor in bud drop but its a possibility. Another factor is when moving it to a different location there may be a change in temperature/light which they may not like.
    Once the plant is in full bloom it should be able to tolerate a little change.
    Christmas cactus will also set buds without 13 hrs of darkness as long as they get a temperature range of 55-60F for six weeks. Sorry about the confusing, hope this clarifies it.

  • Terrie

    My mom has a Christmas cactus that is about 15 years old. I have read the other posts and cannot tell which problem (or which combination) affects my plant. I would appreciate any advice you could provide.

    For the past three years, my mom’s plant was in a small pot that was about 3 inches wide and about 4 inches deep. This summer, it looked great. A few months later, it is not the same plant. Althought it is a pretty green, it is quite pitiful otherwise. The leaves/stems are wilting and soft. The leaves keep falling off at the joints or simply breaking off at the base of the plant. Thinking it was root bound, I reported it in a much bigger pot. Instead of improving, it has continuously gotten worse. The base of the plant had started getting a little woodsy but now it looks like it is turning into dead wood. We use to be able to stick the pieces that broke off back in the dirt and they would grow roots, becoming new plants. Now they simply die off. I repotted in Scott’s Miracle Grow Moisture Control potting soil. The soil is not dry; nor is it too wet. How can I help my mom’s plant? (Lighting has not changed.)

    Hi Terrie
    It sounds as if your Christmas cactus has symptoms of root or crown rot. Usually caused by excess water. For starters, I believe the problem is in the soil. I’m not a fan of this type of soil mix. Moisture control potting soil retains water keeping the roots wet longer which leads to problems such as root or crown rot. I only used moisture control soil in outdoor containers with good drainage. Eventhough spring is the best time to repot, your cactus may need to be replanted now, provided it isn’t setting buds or blooming. Plant it in a good succulent soil that drains well. Water it and then let the soil dry. Keep it mostly dry during the winter as they need a dry dormant period. It may not survive either; transplant shock nor the moisture control soil. So you’ll have to decide. Cuttings root easily in May-June. Try rooting them in moist perlite. Place the pot in a plastic bag in warm, indirect sun. It may take longer to root this time of year. Good luck. Hope this helps a bit.

  • Debbie B.

    Please help! My Christmas cactus has reddish/purplish margins around all the leaves and blotchy red/purple patches on the leaf surfaces. I think I overwatered it for a while last summer. One post made it sound like this is a virus and there is no hope to save the plant. Is that true? Is there any way to get the leaves green again? The plant is several years old and all but the first and second segment nearest the root have the red rims.

    HI Debbie
    It may not be a virus, but a nutrient deficiency(Phosphorous) or a combination of several problems. You don’t mention if you fertilized during the growing season. You may have some root rot from overwatering and the plant needs time to recover. I’m not sure your plant can be saved but what I would do is transplant it into fresh soil,(eventhough spring is a better time to transplant) water it and then let it go dormant by keeping it on the dry side, but not letting the soil dry out completely. In late winter,when it shows signs of new growth start watering again.

  • gummy

    hi, i have a christmas cactus which is now 6yrs old, it`s been placed in direct sunlight and gets a cold draft and it blooms from late november through to february with anything from 4 to 5 full blooms, looks like someone forgot to tell my plant it shouldn`t like it

  • Sherrel

    COLD DAMAGE

    My christmas Cactus was doing great in low 30s temperature, but last night, I think it froze. The plant is still green, but droopy. Is there any hope that I can save it? I thawed it out and put it in a window.

    Hi Sherrel
    Only time will tell how badly it was frozen. It may still perk up and recover. If it starts to get mushy and soft, then its a gonner.

    Rachel ( afeigle@yahoo.com / )
    Several days ago my Christmas Cactus got left on the porch and was exposed to temps in the low 30s. It is usually kepy between 50-60 degrees. Over the last several days, the smaller leaves and some of the newer growth has begun to wilt. Some of the leaves look ok. Is there a chance for the rest of the plant, or will the wilting spread? Is there anything I can do for the parts that still appear healty?

    New growth is more susceptible to cold damage than mature growth. If the new growth hasn’t recovered or perked up by spring time, cut back the spindly growth (up to two segments) which will encourage your plant to send out new growth and make a fuller plant. Because the leaves are wilted you may have a tendency to water but be sure to keep the plant on the dry side during its dormant period (6weeks from blooming) otherwise you can cause root rot problems.

    Cynthia Clark
    I had my Christmas cactus on my front porch and I was away visiting a sick friend in the hospital I had told my husband to bring it inside because there was going to be a cool snap. When I got home it was 21 degrees and he had forgot my cactus, it now has got real droopy and looks dark green I suppose it froze is there anything I can do to save it. It was in full bloom.

    Sorry to hear that. Nothing you can do. If the leaves get soft and mushy then they were frozen.

  • Sandy

    I have a 3 year old plant. It now has buds but the leaves have places that i can only describe as looking like someone used their fingernail to scratch into the leave. It is not edema as it is not brown..just part of the top layer is gone. this is all over the plant. I do not see any signs of pests that are visible. Any idea what this could be?
    HI Dandy
    Is it possible that the plant was exposed to too much direct sun at some point?

    Sandy ( fainc@ipa.net / )
    In response to question on my 3 yr old plant…it has been on my dining table which gets light from a SE facing window. Has not had direct sunlight to receive a burn. Do not even put them out on the patio in the summer anymore as i had one totally eaten by something a few years back! Is there anyway to post a picture?

    Hi Sandy
    After viewing the pictures , I believe your Christmas cactus has Odema (Edema). It occurs when the soil is warm and damp and the air is cool and damp-overwatering. This causes rapid water movement to the leaves but slow transpiration through the leaves. Some of the cells burst and cause scaring which turn into brown “warty” looking spots. Once the leaves are scared, they will not change.

  • Rebecca

    I have had a Christmas Cactus for awhile now in the same window and its been doing quite well,,, it had just started to bloom again, when it got a draft from the window and the leaves went very droopy, and soft…. in the middle there are a few pieces that still seem healthy. Is there anything I can do to save it?

    HI Rebecca
    It may also be a watering problem. Don’t keep it too wet. If your plant is done blooming, stop watering and let it rest for 6 weeks.

  • Christa

    Hi. My Christmas Cactus (over 10 years old) which had been thriving has suddenly started acting weird. The branches of the plant have fallen completely off. One is only holding on by a thread, but has still managed to produce a large bud while in this condition. The ends of these branches turned a brown which seemed to be spreading up from the bottom. We have tried loosening the soil, cleaning the pot, and tried propagating some of the plant (maybe we did it wrong, as they did not make it), but nothing has helped. Is my cactus doomed, or is there hope? I don’t want the poor thing to die!

    Hi Christa
    From you description, your Christmas cactus has a type of stem rot caused by either a fungus (Fusarium oxysporum)basal stem rot or a bacteria (Erwinia spp.). Both start at the soil line and work their way up and cause the stems to drop off. They will eventually kill the plant. Are the stems soft & mushy? Do they have sunken discolored spots on the stem? Remove any diseased parts and reduce watering. Try taking cuttings again.

  • Brandy

    I have my grandmother’s christmas cactus. I noticed tonight it has set on buds. I have it on the back porch. It gets into the 40s out there at night but not freezing. Will moving it cause it to drop the buds? She always had it blooming but this is the first time it has for me. I kind of neglected it and the cold treatment I didn’t even plan worked! I don’t want it to get too cold but don’t want to move it and have the buds fall off.

    Hi Brandy
    Now that the buds are set move it to a little warmer temperatures 50- 60’s , bright light and away from heat vents and drafts. Bring it indoors and enjoy it.

  • Christa

    Hi again,
    The stems are not soft, they are hard, with no sunken discolored bits… it is all just brown. I had reduced then stopped watering it in hopes it would help, (the soil is now dry). The segments are all wilty (And all of the branches are affected it seems) I don’t know if it would even be possible to propagate them…. If we removed all of the branches is it even possible it could re-grow just from roots? It might be time for a new cactus. :(
    If I manage to find one, what is the first thing I should do for it?

    Hi Christa
    Don’t give up just yet. I don’t think removing the branches would help. The problem may be in the roots and (if possible) need time to recover. Keep your cactus dry (just a little bit of water periodically) for the winter and see if it sends out new growth in early spring. They can look pretty sad during this time. At this point you have nothing to loose. If you get a new cactus and it is not in bloom, water little and let it go dormant for the winter. When the top half of the soil feels dry and the pot is light water again. The leaves may be slightly wrinkled but will perk up in spring. Keep it in a sunny window. They can have direct sun for an hour in the winter, otherwise bright filtered light is best. Once the days get longer, they will repsond with new growth, start watering more often, letting the soil dry between watering. Frequency of watering will depend on temperature, humidity, how much light the plant gets. If it is growing quickly then it will need to be watered more often because it is using more water. Also feed the plant with 1/2 strength houseplant fertilizer every 2-3 weeks when new growth starts.

  • Linda Haehnel

    I recently received a Christmas Cactus as a Christmas gift and want to be sure I am taking care of it properly. I live in Central Florida and need to know if this plant can be kept outside. Currently it is cool at night between 50-60s, 70-80s during the day. As spring and summer approach it will become much warmer. Will I do any harm to the plant if I keep it on the lanai and out of the direct sunlight?

    Hi Linda
    It should do just fine outdoors and can be grown throughout the year as long as it is not exposed to freezing temperatures. It can tolerate temperatures in the 40’s . Christmas cactus is a “jungle cactus” and likes to be grown in the shade. Keep it out of direct sunlight, especially in the hot summer.

  • LeAnna

    I inherited a Christmas (Thanksgiving) Cactus from a coworker, and due to the placement of my office, it gets NO sun. At all. Just office lights. It bloomed fine last year and this year, but I don’t think it’s grown at all, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a new leaf on there. Some of the end sections have a red hue to them, as well, or red edges. How can I get this to grow bigger and lose that red, if it’s a problem?

    Hi LeAnna
    If the Christmas cactus seems healthy then if may just be a mineral deficiency. In the spring, when the plant starts to show signs of new growth, feed the plant with a well balanced houseplant fertilizer that contains micronutrients. The plant will grow, if you provide a better growing environment.

  • Russ Boone

    My Christmas Cactus has flowered beautifully around Thanksgiving, and is now starting to bud and flower again. My problem is 1 of the larger budding stems broke off. I found on this site to let it dry a couple of hours, then repot. After a few hours I just placed it into the same pot about and 1-2″ and no water…My question is is there anything else I need to do? Also found your polination tip, and look forward trying it…thanks.

    HI Russ
    Sounds like you did everything right. The cutting will get some moisture from the soil to root in. Remember after bloom to maintain your Christmas cactus on the dry side.

  • Bobbi

    Question on Christmas Cactus: Saw you comment about “White Flies” but the insect on mine is tiny black flies - what can I do?

    Hi Bobbi
    The tiny black flies are most likely fungus gnats. Are they coming out of the soil? If so, you are keeping the soil too wet. Cut down on the amount of watering especially if your Christmas cactus is done blooming.

  • Tom

    I need help. I have a Christmas cactus (or part of one) that has been passed from generation to generation.

    The one I have has not grown or flowered since we got it about two years ago. In fact I think we are killing it…HELP!
    We water it about once a week, and use Jobe fertilizer spikes for flower plants every time we water…What are we doing wrong.

    Hi Tom
    It sounds like you are killing it with kindness. Reduce the watering, in fact during winter, let the plant dry out a bit-perhaps watering it once a month until you see some new growth sprout. They like a dry,dormant period during the winter. Stop fertilizing until new growth begins. Plants can only utilize fertilizer when they are actively growing.

  • Cheryl

    I bought a Christmas cactus from the grocery store about six weeks ago. I placed it near a sunny window and left it in the store pot. It looked great for about three weeks… I watered it once in that period. The watered drained through the soil very fast and I poured off the excess that collected in the outer pot so it wouldn’t have wet feet. The top soil always seemed dry, but I didn’t want to overwater a cactus.

    Then flowers started falling off, and it got kind of droopy, with soft stems and a little bit of wrinkling all over the stems. I have a 10-year-old jade plant that does that when it hasn’t been watered for a month or two, and after I water it, the stems perk back up. So I started watering the Christmas cactus lightly about every 10-14 days. I watered the it before going overseas for two weeks. It looked the same when I came back, so I watered it again lightly. Now it’s two weeks later and the cactus is looking worse and is very floppy and a little wrinkled. The top of the soil is always very dry and hard, and the pot feels light, within a day of being watered. It’s getting plenty of light and is at 61 degrees during the day, up to 72 in the afternoon, then down to 65 at night. (Automatic thermostat.)

    Why is it drooping so much? Am I over or under watering it? I can’t tell, and I don’t want to kill it.

  • Nicole

    I bought a Christmas Cactus online and it arrived looking relatively healthy. I repotted it in Miracle Gro potting soil and have only watered it about once a week. I’m not sure, but I think it may have salt burn. I haven’t seen any information about what salt burn looks like, but the soil that the plant came in looked like it had way too much fertilizer in it. My plant is still green, but not growing very well and one of the stems has a small yellow abscess where the soil line was touching it. I have since removed most of the old soil and carefully wiped the stem with a wet papertowel then repotted it. Is this salt burn, and did I do the right thing?

  • Jennie

    I have a white Christmas cactus that has turned pink. Is there a way to get it to bloom white again?

    Hi Jennie
    Christmas cactus can change color due to light, temperature, nutrients and soil ph. Some color genes are weaker than others and flowers will revert to the weaker gene color.

  • I have my grandmother’s Christmas cactus which I assume to be 60 to 80 years old. It has been in the same NW facing window for over 8 years. It has not been repotted in at least 10 years. Stems are woody and about an inch thick. Growth is over three feet all the way around. It blooms twice every year, around Christmas and around Easter. New growth appears in late spring or early summer. Occasionally there are dead sections but they are localized.
    In the colder months, the house is kept in the low to mid 60’s. I give it a pot of water every two weeks and a dropper full of fertilizer each time. Every once in a while I turn the plant.
    Obviously, the plant seems to be doing consistently well. My question is, should I mess with a good thing? Should I cut back on the watering in the fall and winter? Should I not be fertilizing it every time I water, all year long? Should I repot it even though it is likely I will break some parts of the plant in the process?

    Hi Phil
    Wow! I say, leave well enough alone. There are alway exceptions to the rules and obviously your plant is one of them - happy and healthy. Take some cuttings (after bloom) in the spring and make new plants to share with your friends.

  • Dawn Graves

    Hello. I just received about 10 separate segments from my mother in law and She told me to go home and put them in moist dirt. How many segments can go in pot? Do I possibly have ten individual plants? They all have 3 to 4 segments each. I hope this make sense.

    I would plant 3-5 segments in a 6″ pot. In a 4-5″ pot plant 3 segments. Plant them around the perimeter. They should fill in nicely.

  • ML King

    I have an old cactus I got of my Grandmothers. I beleive it would be 60-70 years old. It has a small pink “ball” at the end of the branches. It does bloom with a pink flower but these little balls are always there. It’s pretty because it has color all year long. However, I have never seen another like it. Any suggestions about what type it might be?

  • Shelly

    My very old Christmas cactus has just started to have it “leaves” turn white. Any sugestions as to what is causing this and a possable cure? Thanks.

    Hi Shelly
    One thing that cause chlorotic leaves is a micronutrient defieciency. The stems can also “turn white” from overexposure to sun causing sunscald on the leaves. Is the plant exposed to direct sun? Are the leaves gray and wilted?

  • my christmas cactus is dieing what can i do to help it from dieing

  • Jennifer Norman

    By reading through the posts I have come to the conclusion that I sunburned my 10 year old Christmas cactus today. I would say about 1/4th of the leaves are white. Some are translucent. I put it outside 2 days ago, thinking cactus = desert, which I have now learned is completely wrong. It was wilting and the sunlight did seem to help it perk up. But the temperature reached 96 degrees today, and I wasn’t home to bring it inside. When I got home I saw the white leaves and immediately searched for what I did to it. I did soak the soil until water drained out the bottom of the pot. What can I do now?
    Thank you for any help!

    Nothing you can do for sun scald-the damage is done. The white areas will eventually turn brown and die. Keep it in a shaded area until it slowly acclimates to brighter light. Be sure to let the soil dry slightly between waterings.

  • Phyllis Williams

    i am trying to root my xmas cactus in water and I am having no luck. Been in water over a month and nothing.
    please help.

    Hi Phyllis
    Try rooting it in soil, you may have better luck and its the preferred way. See the first comment on propagating cuttings.

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