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Amaryllis

Hippeastrum spp. better known as Amaryllis is a native plant of South America. This bulb produces a spectacular cluster of flowers accompanied by long strap like leaves.
Even though amaryllis are generally grown during the winter months for the Holiday season, they also do well in the garden if you live in frost-free zones 9 and 10. Here they can be planted outdoors in the fall in full sun and well drained soil. Plant it 1 ” or 1/3 of the bulb above the soil line and mulch during the winter. It should rebloom year after year in late spring or early summer.

amaryllis
Amaryllis forced for indoor winter blooming. Many bulbs kits are available starting in the fall that have all the necessary items needed. It usually includes pot, potting soil mix and of course the bulb along with instructions on planting or you can purchase bulbs online from several sources. Upon inspecting your bulb make sure that it is free of soft spots and blemishes and at least 2 1/2 inches in diameter. The bigger the bulbs size the better the flower or flowers will be.

Plant the bulb in a pot 1-2 inches larger than the diameter of the bulb. Use a well drained soil mix and place 1/3 to 1/2 of the bulb above the soil line-if planted too deep you will get leaves and no flowers. Water with lukewarm water and keep the soil moist but not saturated. Water when the top inch layer of soil is dry; too much water can cause the bulb to rot. Make sure the pot is well drained. Keep the bulb in a warm room with temperatures of above 60 degrees (70-80 is ideal during root development). If it is too cool in the house, try the top of the refrigerator for additional heat source. Once the bulb begins to sprout, place it in a sunny, warm location. When flowers appear (3-8 weeks after planting) move the plant out of direct sunlight. Be sure to rotate the pot to keep the flower stalk from leaning toward the light. Stake the stalk when necessary. To extend the life of the flower maintain the temperature around 65 degrees, remove the pollen-bearing stamens inside the flower and cut away any faded blooms.

REBLOOMING AMARYLLIS
When your amaryllis is done blooming you must allow the exhausted bulb to rebuild itself. Cut the finished blooms right below the pod. After all flowers are gone cut off the cylindrical stalk down to several inches above the bulb but not the large strap leaves, let them continue to grow on a sunny windowsill and feed monthly with a balanced fertilizer. When the weather warms up, place the plant outside in afternoon shade for the summer. In late summer/early fall bring the pot indoors, gradually reduce watering, allowing it to dry out. Once the foliage is yellow cut it off and place the pot undisturbed in a cool (55-60) room away from any ethylene gas exposure (eg. apples). Allow the amaryllis to go dormant for 8-10 wks. After dormancy, repot the bulb, water and bring it back into a heated bright room.
There are many Amaryllis cultivars available from single large to double large and small single flowers as well as assorted colors. It definitely is worth the effort.

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42 comments to Amaryllis

  • Brigitte

    what kind of fertilizer should I use for the Amaryllis and Soil for repotting. thanks ;-)

    Use a well balanced liquid fertilizer for houseplants such as 10-10-10 and potting soil mix that is light and drains well for eg. an equal mix of peat moss and perlite.

  • Daphne

    Amaryllis-I have an amaryllis that is at least 15 years old. It has sprouted additional bulbs along the way. It used to bloom twice a year for the first five years. Now is blooms like clockwork the end of February and continues until the end of April. It’s magnificent. I find this indoor potted plant to be very low maintenance. I live in Canada so sun can be low in the winter. It doesn’t seem to matter.
    I do have a question. For the first time ever a few of the stems have grown what look to be seed pods. These are green and balloon like just at the base of the where the blossom connects. Do you know what they are and what I can do with them? Thank you, Daphne

    They are seed pods, let them ripen (turn yellow/ brown and split open) and then you can plant them. Seed pods mature 4-5 weeks after the flower has been pollinated.

    I have a amaryllis.A red one it is done flowering and is growing seed pods can you grow another one from the seeds or should I just wait for a new little bulb to grow? Will letting the seed pods to grow ruin the mother plant? Janet

    Seed production will take some energy away from the mother plant but will not ruin it. Amaryllis grown from seed take 3+ years to flower. The bulbils(offsets) will take 2-3 years to produce a flower. Best time to remove bulbils (if any) is after a 4 month cool dry period(after dormancy). They should be 1/4 to 1/3 size of the mother bulb. At this time, be sure to rebuild the bulb by allowing the foliage to grow and start fertilizing w/a balanced fertilizer once a month.

    I separated the seeds from the dried pods and put them in the refrigerator. When is a good time to plant them in the greenhouse and is it worth the effort? Dennis B.

    Plant the seed immediately after the pods split open, especially in the greenhouse. Barely cover the seed with light seed starter soil, keep moist and in partial shade until they germinate, then gradually move the container to full sun. Feed seedlings with 1/2 strength fertilizer every 2 weeks during the growing season. It takes 3 years or more before you will see a flower and plants may not be the same as the parent plant.

    source:http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu

  • danielle

    I would very much like to grow one in water-a large vase-would just the roots go into water-and not the bulb itself?right?would I change the water or just add?

    Keep the base of the bulb in water which will send its roots into the water. If the bulbs is doing well you don’t need to change the water just add more when needed. If there is an unpleasant odor or dead roots then you should change the water.

  • Fay Mills

    It is great to have a place to ask questions! I have 10 bulbs that I planted after the frost in the ground, full sun, they are growing long beautiful green leaves, but it is July now and no flowers. I live in North Florida. We have had a lot of rain, could this affect the blooming? Do I just need to wait till next year to see the flowers? My first for growing this plant.

    The rain can have something to do with flowering(rot the bulb) as well as other factors such as too much Nitrogen in the fertilizer which will give you all leaves and no flowers. Bulbs need some phosphorus and more potassium for blooming. Was it planted too deep? A third of the bulb should be exposed. Another question is how were they grown before you got them. Were they properly conditioned to bloom? At any rate, let your amaryllis grow and allow the leaves to yellow and die back so that they can replenish the energy needed for next season’s bloom. In the winter when dormant, they will need little water and should bloom in April.

  • Laura

    I bought the Amaryllis plant at Walmart because it was only $5.00 and now I have 2 beautiful salmon colored flowers with one more to bloom-I am at a lost what to do next-no green thumb here.

    To extend the life of the flower maintain the temperature around 65 degrees and keep it away from direct sunlight. Remove the pollen-bearing stamens inside the flower and cut away any faded blooms but not the flower stalk. Once the plant is done blooming cut off the flower stalk 3-5 inches above the bulb & move it to a sunny spot allowing the leaves grow and fertilize once a month with a balanced fertilizer. It is important to allow the foliage to grow so it can put back the nutrients required for the next season’s blooming. When leaves completely die down, cut them off and store the bulb in a cool 50 degrees for 2-3 months. Plant in the spring in container or outdoors after danger of frost has passed.

  • umi

    hello all,
    i have double amaryllis varieties. about 14 of them
    can any one tell me how to propogate them, as they don’t produce any seeds

    Amaryllis can be propagated from off-sets- the little bulbils which develop from the mother bulb. They should be 1/4 to 1/3 the size of the mother plant before they are separated and will bloom in 2-3 years. A good time to separate amaryllis is after the 4 month dormant period before replanting.

  • denise

    Is it ok to plant two amaryllis bulbs in one pot?

    Yes, you can plant two bulbs or more in one pot. Be sure that the container has drainage holes and is 2 inches bigger in diameter than the bulbs to accomidate the root system.

  • Heather

    I’m in Southern California and we’ve had a mild winter so far. My amaryllis came from my mother’s original pot of bulbs (seperated because pot was getting too small). I’ve had them in pots for 1 year & had a bloom this summer. The leaves are still very green. I’ve had 1-2 leaves go yellow and I’ve just been pluck them away when needed. My question is, would it be ok to just continue watering and keeping the green leaves as they are or is it necessary to cut the green leaves back and withhold water for 2-3 months for them to flower again?

    Yes, continue watering allowing the leaves to stay green and remove any yellowing leaves when needed. The longer it stays green the more nutrients it will have to store back into the bulb. The bulb will eventually go dormant on its own. Store (55 degrees) it in the container for 8-10 wks. Replant it in the spring and it should rebloom in the summer. In warmer climates they can be planted outdoors in the fall and will bloom in spring.

  • Charlotte

    I have an Amaryllis plant with beautiful colours. 4 Blooms with a smaller not yet open one left. We stacked it, but while gone on a weekend vacation it toppled over and the stalk broke, the blooms are now in water, shoud I just keep watering the balance of the stalk and leaves or cut it down, and put it into dormant stage and try again in a few months. I live in Canada and I don’t think our summer is long enough to plant out of doors. The smaller pod I also dont know what to do with.

    Yes, continue to water the bulb and let it grow as eventually it will send out leaf stalks which are needed to replenish the nutrients required for next season’s bloom. Cut the flower stalk 3-5 inches above the bulb but leave the foliage. Allow the smaller pod to grow, amaryllis can produce a second flower stalk to double your pleasure. When it is completely finished blooming place the plant in a sunny window and start to fertilize once a month with a balanced fertilizer to help rebuild the bulb.

  • Ashley

    My mom removed the skin around the bulb. Will it survive?

    The skin is a protective layer on the bulb, its better to leave it on but it should be fine as long as the bulb is firm with no soft spots and a creamy color.

  • Gail

    How tall does the Amaryllis usually get before it blooms? Mine is 38 inches tall and no blooms yet.

    Some varieties of Amaryllis have taller stalks than others. Usually the flower stalk comes out first, you may not get a flower this time just the strap like leaves.

  • Barbara Cooley

    My mom gave me an amaryllis plant in January and here it is March and I haven’t seen any blooms? At first I was watering once a week and after that starting watering more often. How can I get mine to bloom or produce flowers?

    Is there any green coming out of the bulb? If you are getting some leaves then at least it’s growing. It is possible that you will not get a flower this time. The flower is predetermined inside the bulb from last year’s growth. If the bulb was not conditioned & cared for properly there might not be a flower.

  • Bill Gafford

    We have a number of amaryllis in our yard in Houston that used to have red blooms, but have been mostly white for a couple of years. What has caused this? What can I do to get the red back?

    Some factors that can affect a color change is air temperature, moisture condition and fertility. Is it possible that you also had some white amaryllis growing? If so, the white color may be more dominant and have taken over the red. Sometimes Mother Nature does what she wants

    .

  • dianne

    Grow amaryllis from seed
    I have just read on your site the way to grow amaryllis from seed. Unfortunately I just planted them straight into a pot instead of soaking or removing seeds with tweezers and allowing to germinate in water then plant.
    Will my seeds germinate if left with black exterior sheath on them?
    Can anyone advise please

    Other than the water germination method Amaryllis seeds can also be planted soil. Use a light potting soil mix (pro mix, jiffy mix), fill pot 3/4 full, sprinkly seeds on surface and cover with 1/8″ of fine soil. Water and keep moist and warm but not too wet and under 75F. Cover the pot with plastic wrap or place in a plastic bag. The seeds need light to germinate so keep it under a cool light or in indirect sun. If all goes well, germination should occur within a month and you should see tiny leaves emerge. Transplant seedlings into individual pot when leaves are 4″ tall and have pea sized bulbs.
    Removing the black sheath should not affect the germination process. Hope this helps Kris

  • Lori Armbruster

    I have had several bulbs in my yard for more years than I can remember. I thought the blooming would slow down as an indication that I should seperate them, but they just keep flowering. I’m not complaining, but the bulbs are coming out of the ground. I finally seperated them, but I’m not sure if I am supposed to replant the biggest, smallest or medium sized ones. From what I’ve read on your site, I think the little ones won’t bloom for two to three years. If I plant the biggest ones will they continue to bloom as previously? Should I plant a mixture of large and small?

    I think you almost answered your own question. The biggest ones should continue to bloom as well as the medium sized bulbs as long as they have had good growing conditions during the year. The small ones may or may not produce a flower but with each year of growth will get larger and start blooming within two-three years. You can mix the bulbs or start new groupings with medium bulbs and another with small bulbs-this way you can observe their progress.

  • David

    Thanks for all the above information.
    Does anyone have any idea about the pH (soil acidity) that amaryllis prefers? And, how can you tell which fertilizers have this pH?
    Thanks.

    Amaryllis prefers a soil ph ranging from 5.5-6.0. It grows well in any garden soil as long as it drains well. Most fertilizers will not change the ph except the ones formulated for acidic plants such as Miracid. Fertilize with a balanced house plant fertilizer twice a month after flowering and when leaves are growing.

  • Erica

    How long does a cut amaryllis stem last?

    An amaryllis as a cut flower generally has a vase life of 7-10 days. Cut the flower when the first buds are starting to open.

  • Ray

    This is an amazing site, which I return to repeatedly for all and any plant advice- thanks for the insights!
    I have 2 Amaryllis bulbs, both bought as bulbs-in-a-box. After the 1st blooms, I cut the flower stems down, continued to water till end-summer, then allowed to dry out, stored the bulbs in the fridge (without any apples!) Having replanted them end-feb in pots, they’ve both grown 4-5 healthy leaves, but no blooms. I continue to water them when the top is dry. My quesn is will they flower eventually if I keep up with the watering? Do they need feeding right now while the leaves are green? Or should I go through the whole cycle again and hope for the best??
    Thanks.

    Hi Ray
    It sounds like your’e doing everthing right. Keep up with the watering and in late summer/early fall let it die down and reduce watering . Don’t fertilize now. You can fertilize when the flower stalk start to develop. Don’t store the bulb in the frig-store it in an area around 50F. for 8-10 weeks. Repot the bulb in fresh soil when you’re ready to get it started again. I should rebloom. Amaryllis can fail to bloom if the soil has too much N fertilizer which will produce more leaves at the expense of flowers. Also,the bulb will not bloom if it is stored near any ethylene gas exposure, .

  • Carrie

    I just bought an Amaryllis last Friday, and it’s in a glass vase with stones. It is sprouting like crazy right now, with many leaves coming up, as well as two buds. I did read the question and response to a previous post, regarding the care and instructions while in water, and I understand that. However my question is can I keep it in water for as long as I own it, or do I need to repot it in regular potting soil after it comes out of it’s first dormancy period, or when do I need to if at all? I’m concerned that the plant may not get all of the nutrients it might need in water versus what it would get planted in soil, but I’m hopeful. :) I love the way it looks in the glass, it’s a real eye catcher, but if the plant won’t survive, then so be it. Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. And I agree with many of the other people that visit that this is an awesome site, and it’s extremely informative as well! I’ve added it to my favorites, and I plan to frequent it from now on whenever I have any questions. Bravo! :)

    Hi Carrie
    Thank you the kind words. I’m glad we can help.
    You can grow your amaryllis in water but once it is finished blooming you should plant the bulb in soil to help replenish the nutrients the bulb used up. Bulbs forced in water generally, do not preform as well as those grown in soil and are either planted in soil in hopes that they rebuild enough to bloom again or are discarded.

  • ELAINE

    Please can anybody help with a hippeastrum called ‘Glow Worm’? It is a beautiful whitish flower.

    Hi Elaine
    I’m not familiar with the variety “Glow Worm” but it would be grown the same way as any amaryllis.

  • doreen

    Love this site. Am buying an amaryllis kit
    today. I’ll be back.

  • Janet

    Can you force Papilio Improved to bloom at a certain time of the year and if so, how? How large do the bulbs need to be to bloom?

    Hi Janet
    Papilio Improved is a hybrid of H. papilio which produces multiple flower stalks with slender, spidery flowers that last longer than regular amaryllis flowers. This exotic amaryllis can be grown the same way as any other amaryllis bulb. The bulbs sold are usually around 23-24cm size for bloom.

  • Deborah

    I live in North Central Florida. Around 3 years ago I was given some Amaryllis bulbs. These bulbs all bloomed the first year. Less bloomed last year and I had no blooms this year. I have read through the comments on this subject and I am wondering if my problem is that the bulbs are planted too deep. With the mulch added the entire bulb is buried. Do I need to dig up my bulbs and replant them leaving part of the bulb exposed? If I do need to do this when is a good time?

    HI Deborah
    If your Amaryllis bulbs are not growing at this time, dig them up and replant them higher about 1″ above the soil. You might also work in some bulb food into the soil. They may be crowded and need more space or will compete for nutrients. After blooming, do you let the leaves continue to grow throughout the season or do you cut them back? It is important to let the leaves die back naturally as that replenishes the bulb and forms next years flowers. Amaryllis also need some sun (partial shade) to grow well?

  • Steph

    Are amaryllis plants toxic to cats? My daughter would love to grow them (indoors – we live in zone 4), but if a cat takes a nibble…? Thank you.

    HI Steph
    Amaryllis are listed as being poisonous to cats. It is the bulb part which contains a toxin called Lycorine that is poisonous.

  • Jim

    I’ve grown numerous amaryllis plants from seeds (hand pollinated) and now some of the mature plants have a grub (pupa/larva) in the bulbs. All plants are in containers or pots. The grub is about 1/8 inch thick and ¼ inch long and tunnels into the lower area leaving a reddish lining to its burrow in the bulbs. The infected plants gradually weaken and have to be removed and destroyed.
    Based on this information can you determine what the pest might be and offer suggestions about how it can be prevented or controlled?

    Hi Jim
    Its possible that you have a Narcissus bulb fly that is infesting your Amaryllis bulbs. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NarcissusBulbFly

  • kasman

    What’s the differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum.thanks
    kasman

    Amarylildaceae is the family and Hippeastrum is the genus . Amaryllis is the common name under hippeastrum from which all cultivars are bred.
    “The Honorable Reverend William Herbert, a British scientist, a leading authority on the amaryllis of his era, segregated some amaryllis into a new genus, which he called Hippeastrum, publishing the name change in his book Amaryllidaceae in 1837. Today Hippeastrum (hip-ee-ay-strum) remains the correct genus name for cultivated amaryllis hybrids.”

    Excerpt from AMARYLlIS by Starr Ockenga.

  • Kate

    How long does the average Amaryllis bloom? I have one called Apple Blossom, do you have any idea how long it will flower?

    Hi Kate
    The duration of bloom depends on the size of the bulb and growing conditons, temperature and amount of light the plant gets . On average, the flowering period can last about a month. A larger bulb can produce more than one stalk therefore bloom even longer. To prolong bloom time, remove the anthers from the flowers, keep the plant at 55-65F at night and away from direct sun. Remove any spent flowers to discourage seed formation that will deplete the plant of energy.

  • Suzie

    Floppy leaves

    The leaves on my Amaryllis are about a foot long but are obviously starting to fall over, should i put a stake in to keep them upright, this is an indoor plant and my first one. Any help appreciated

    Hi Suzie
    You can stake or tie your Amaryllis leaves together to keep them from falling over, just make sure you don’t injure the leaves or just leave them. The newer leaves should be more upright. Be sure your plant is in bright light-not enough sun can also produce floppy leaves. If you don’t see a flower stalk by now, then there’s a good chance that it will not produce one.

  • Sam

    Hello i was reading about the middle if the amaryllis being poisnous. Are they that way with people and or other pets??
    Or is it only if they eat it???

    Hi Sam
    The bulb is poisonous only if you eat it.

  • Janet

    I have several Amaryllis in my home greenhouse. The leaves are getting very dusty. What is the best way to clean them? Thanks

    Hi Janet
    The easiest and best way is to take a damp paper towel or soft cloth and wipe the dust off the surface of the leaves.

  • Ray

    I bought 2 Amaryllis bulbs from Walmart & potted them about 3wks ago. Both bulbs had already begun sprouting when I took them out of their box- now 3wks later, the sprouts have dried & fallen! The bulbs still look healthy enough, but there seems to be nothing happening with either. Were they duds?? They are in a warm spot with window light & I’ve only watered when the top is dry. Is there anything I should be doing to get them growing again? Thanks!

    HI Ray
    I’m afraid the bulbs are done flowering. Never buy sprouted bulbs-they will turn into duds. The problem was that the bulbs were kept in warm temperatures and were ready to grow BUT did not have any roots developed to support the new growth. Eventhough it began to sprout, it used up all its stored energy to do so. Keep it in the soil and it may still send out some leaves once it establishes some roots. Then you will have to grow it all season just to rebuild the bulb for next year. see info on reblooming amaryllis If not toss it.

  • ayesha

    hi there,
    ive just bought my very first amaryllis. it goes by the name of white peacock. ive potted it and watered it. somewhere on the internet i read that to force the bulb to start off with a bloom instead of leaves, one should water it only when its potted and them once a month. this makes the bulb force out a flower instead of leaves. is this true?

    Hi Ayesha
    I have not heard of that watering method. It’s possible. The flower inside the bulb is predetermined by last year’s growth and how the bulb was stored. If it did not replenish enough nutrients back into the bulb, then it won’t have enough energy to bloom.

  • Renee

    I live in NE Florida. I dug up my most of my amaryllis this past summer as the backyard garden became too shaded by tree growth for them to bloom well. Stored them in my garage and had planned to replant in front yard where there is plenty of sun, but haven’t had time to replant them yet. Is it too late to plant now for spring blooms? Simply love these plants – have grown for years now and use as cuttings in the house as well.

    I don’t think its too late to plant them. Get them in the ground.

  • julie

    CHIPPING AMARYLLIS
    There was some information in the garden section of our newspaper regarding dividing amaryllis bulbs. Newspaper has long been disposed. Do I cut them thru the center? if so when and how do you suggest I do so

    Hi Julie
    You can remove the offsets (small bulbs) from the parent bulb. I think you are referring to a method called chipping; this is done when the bulb is dormant. Clean the bulb and remove the papery outer skin. With a sharp clean knife trim back the roots being careful not to cut into the basal plate and cut back the growing tip. With the basal plate upright, cut the bulb into 8-16 sections (chips) making sure each chip has a part of the basal plate attached. Soak the chips in fungicide solution for 15 min. and then drain and dry for 12 hrs. Place in a plastic bag or container filled with moistened vermiculite, inflate bag and seal. Store at 68F (20C) for 12 weeks. Bulblets should form from the base plate between the scales. The chips can then be potted (basal plate down) into individual pots with the bulblet covered with 1/2″ of soil and chips exposed. They will eventually die off. Grow in protected area. Plants should flower in 3 years. Source: Plant Progagation, Alan Toogood

  • Mary Macomber

    Divide amaryllis
    HI!
    I live in South Florida, zone 10, and have been growing amaryllis in the ground for years–I adore them!!! I noticed that my plants look to have seed pods developing this year–I read the piece above which referred to “the water germination method”. Can you explain how I would do that, please?

    Also my bulbs are getting awfully crowded and in need of being pulled up and separated–what is the best time to do that here in the south? They are still blooming now in mid-May–unbelievable–I’ve had blooms for the last three months by the dozens–prolific!!! And all colors and mixes! I just love them! And when I do dig them up, can I just go ahead and replant right away?
    Your help will be greatly appreciated!
    Thanks much!
    Mary in South Florida (Amaryllis has my name in it!)

    Hi Mary
    For the water germination method http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hippeastrum
    To dig up and divide your amaryllis wait until the fall when the leaves start to yellow and die back and then replant them right away. Cut/break offsets that are at least 1/4 to 1/3 the size of the mother bulb.

  • Janet

    I live in NC Zone 7 and I have had my potted amaryllis outside all summer. Usually I take the bulbs out of the pots, clean all the soil off them and let them dry and then chill them for 8 weeks in the refrigerator. This year I want to try just bring the pots inside and letting the amaryllis go dormant in the pots for 8 weeks. What type product should I spray the container soil and bulbs with to get rid of any insects that might be in the soil or on the bulbs (slugs, aphids, gnats…)? Thanks

    Hi Janet
    You can use a soil drench made with insecticidal soap to kill off any insects. Follow label directions for chemical use. Or try to flush insects out by soaking the soil with water

  • Glenn

    Mealy bugs
    Last winter I had trouble with mealy bugs on my amaryllis is my heated hobby greenhouse. I left about 100 amaryllis (mid size bullets, about 40 different named amaryllis) in the greenhouse all summer long watering them occasionally. I know sometimes during the day the temperature got over 100 degrees and I still have mealy bugs on over half of the amaryllis. I cut the leaves down to just an inch long and sprayed with alcohol/water several times and still I have mealy bugs. Any suggestions on how to get rid of them.

    Hi Glenn
    See the comment at http://hortchat.com/info/mealy-bugs#comments to Pam 8/26/06 for alternative suggestions.

  • barb

    love the info im finding here. have question on hippeastrum. i have many different kinds, i even had them grouped together in the same pots. some of them the leaves died on their own and some i cut while still green :( (im new to these flowers and learning what NOT to do) i repotted the most of them into seperate pots, 3 of them woke up right away but im left with about 8 of them that are doing nothing. the bulb is firm and the neck of the bulb is green. will they wake on their own? am i just being impatient?

    Hi Barb
    Be patient.. The bulbs need a resting period about 8-10 weeks and will eventually start to grow on their own. See above article on Reblooming amaryllis. I’m just putting my bulb to “bed” for a resting period and will bring out the pot in Nov/Dec for winter bloom.

  • Elena

    Hi! I bought the amaryllis bulb a year ago, put it in the pot and it started to grow well, but it didn’t give any flowers. for the whole year it was growing only leaves. I tried to water it less and to let it go dormant but it didn’t work. My husband told me to cut all the leaves off which i did (and i think it was the wrong thing to do), and now i have noticed the tops of the cut leaves started to rot. Can you give me any advice on what to do now? and is there any hope the bulb will survive at all?
    Thanks for your help.

    Hi Elena
    Sometimes you have to force them to dormancy. Stop watering completely so that everything dries out. Then store your bulb in a cool, dark spot for 8-10 weeks.

  • Glenn

    What is the name of the amaryllis at the top of this site? Thanks

    HI Glenn
    I’m not sure what the name was. It’s probably “Clown” or “United Nation”. After a few years, the red markings are starting to fade .

  • There are many perennials that can add to the beauty of any place in a few months, if due care and attention is paid while choosing and growing them.

  • Laura

    Amaryllis flower bloom time
    How long does an Amaryllis bloom last indoors?
    (I.e., if I am trying to time its blooming for the holidays, should I err on the earlier side of the range of time within which it can be expected to bloom, because the blooms will last awhile, or is it important to get very close to the time you want the flowers to be open, because they only last, say, a few days?)
    Laura

    Hi Laura
    Successive blooms can last up to 2 weeks. Not all buds open at the same time. Duration depends on temperature and how much light the plant is exposed to. Once the buds are open keep the plant in a cool room (55-65F) and away from direct sun. Each bloom can last up to 5 days. To further prolong blooming, remove the yellow anthers (pollen) when the buds begins to open. Remove or cut off each flower when it starts to wilt.

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