Plant Care & Gardening Tips@ HortChat.com©

Amaryllis

Filed under: — admin @ 11:36 am


strong>

Hippeastrum spp. better known as Amaryllis is a native plant of South America. This bulb produces a spectacular cluster of flowers accompanied by long strap like leaves.
Even though amaryllis are generally grown during the winter months for the Holiday season, they also do well in the garden if you live in frost-free zones 9 and 10. Here they can be planted outdoors in the fall in full sun and well drained soil. Plant it 1 ” or 1/3 of the bulb above the soil line and mulch during the winter. It should rebloom year after year in late spring or early summer.

amaryllis
Amaryllis forced for indoor winter blooming. Many bulbs kits are available starting in the fall that have all the necessary items needed. It usually includes pot, potting soil mix and of course the bulb along with instructions on planting or you can purchase bulbs online from several sources. Upon inspecting your bulb make sure that it is free of soft spots and blemishes and at least 2 1/2 inches in diameter. The bigger the bulbs size the better the flower or flowers will be.

Plant the bulb in a pot 1-2 inches larger than the diameter of the bulb. Use a well drained soil mix and place 1/3 to 1/2 of the bulb above the soil line-if planted too deep you will get leaves and no flowers. Water with lukewarm water and keep the soil moist but not saturated. Water when the top inch layer of soil is dry; too much water can cause the bulb to rot. Make sure the pot is well drained. Keep the bulb in a warm room with temperatures of above 60 degrees (70-80 is ideal during root development). If it is too cool in the house, try the top of the refrigerator for additional heat source. Once the bulb begins to sprout, place it in a sunny, warm location. When flowers appear (3 -8 weeks after planting) move the plant out of direct sunlight. Be sure to rotate the pot to keep the flower stalk from leaning toward the light. Stake the stalk when necessary. To extend the life of the flower maintain the temperature around 65 degrees, remove the pollen-bearing stamens inside the flower and cut away any faded blooms.

REBLOOMING AMARYLLIS
When your amaryllis is done blooming you must allow the exhausted bulb to rebuild itself. Cut the finished blooms right below the pod. After all flowers are gone cut off the cylindrical stalk down to several inches above the bulb but not the large strap leaves, let them continue to grow on a sunny windowsill and feed monthly with a balanced fertilizer. When the weather warms up, place the plant outside in afternoon shade for the summer. In late summer/early fall bring the pot indoors, gradually reduce watering, allowing it to dry out. Once the foliage is yellow cut it off and place the pot undisturbed in a cool (55-60) room. Allow the amaryllis to go dormant for 8-10 wks. After dormancy, repot the bulb, water and bring it back into a heated bright room.
There are many cultivars available from single large to double large and small single flowers as well as assorted colors. It definitely is is worth the effort.

Tell a Friend or Foe about this 'Amaryllis article'
Bookmark this thread on Amaryllis
previous post: Confederate Rose
next post: Confederate Jasmine

19 Comments on Amaryllis»

  1. what kind of fertilizer should I use for the Amaryllis and Soil for repotting. thanks ;-)

    Use a well balanced liquid fertilizer for houseplants such as 10-10-10 and potting soil mix that is light and drains well for eg. an equal mix of peat moss and perlite.

    Comment by Brigitte — 1/7/2005 @ 12:25 pm

  2. Five years ago I planted one Bulb. Today I have ten. Mine are in the groung year long(houston rarely freezes) and they are 4 feet tall

    Comment by Donna Luce — 4/12/2005 @ 7:22 pm

  3. Amaryllis-I have an amaryllis that is at least 15 years old. It has sprouted additional bulbs along the way. It used to bloom twice a year for the first five years. Now is blooms like clockwork the end of February and continues until the end of April. It’s magnificent. I find this indoor potted plant to be very low maintenance. I live in Canada so sun can be low in the winter. It doesn’t seem to matter.
    I do have a question. For the first time ever a few of the stems have grown what look to be seed pods. These are green and balloon like just at the base of the where the blossom connects. Do you know what they are and what I can do with them? Thank you, Daphne

    They are seed pods, let them ripen (turn yellow/ brown and split open) and then you can plant them. Seed pods mature 4-5 weeks after the flower has been pollinated.

    I have a amaryllis.A red one it is done flowering and is growing seed pods can you grow another one from the seeds or should I just wait for a new little bulb to grow? Will letting the seed pods to grow ruin the mother plant? Janet

    Seed production will take some energy away from the mother plant but will not ruin it. Amaryllis grown from seed take 3+ years to flower. The bulbils(offsets) will take 2-3 years to produce a flower. Best time to remove bulbils (if any) is after a 4 month cool dry period(after dormancy). They should be 1/4 to 1/3 size of the mother bulb. At this time, be sure to rebuild the bulb by allowing the foliage to grow and start fertilizing w/a balanced fertilizer once a month.

    I separated the seeds from the dried pods and put them in the refrigerator. When is a good time to plant them in the greenhouse and is it worth the effort? Dennis B.

    Plant the seed immediately after the pods split open, especially in the greenhouse. Barely cover the seed with light seed starter soil, keep moist and in partial shade until they germinate, then gradually move the container to full sun. Feed seedlings with 1/2 strength fertilizer every 2 weeks during the growing season. It takes 3 years or more before you will see a flower and plants may not be the same as the parent plant.

    source:http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu

    Comment by Daphne — 4/21/2005 @ 9:56 am

  4. I would very much like to grow one in water-a large vase-would just the roots go into water-and not the bulb itself?right?would I change the water or just add?

    Keep the base of the bulb in water which will send its roots into the water. If the bulbs is doing well you don’t need to change the water just add more when needed. If there is an unpleasant odor or dead roots then you should change the water.

    Comment by danielle — 4/27/2005 @ 4:33 pm

  5. It is great to have a place to ask questions! I have 10 bulbs that I planted after the frost in the ground, full sun, they are growing long beautiful green leaves, but it is July now and no flowers. I live in North Florida. We have had a lot of rain, could this affect the blooming? Do I just need to wait till next year to see the flowers? My first for growing this plant.

    The rain can have something to do with flowering(rot the bulb) as well as other factors such as too much Nitrogen in the fertilizer which will give you all leaves and no flowers. Bulbs need some phosphorus and more potassium for blooming. Was it planted too deep? A third of the bulb should be exposed. Another question is how were they grown before you got them. Were they properly conditioned to bloom? At any rate, let your amaryllis grow and allow the leaves to yellow and die back so that they can replenish the energy needed for next season’s bloom. In the winter when dormant, they will need little water and should bloom in April.

    Comment by Fay Mills — 7/8/2005 @ 5:32 am

  6. I bought the Amaryllis plant at Walmart because it was only $5.00 and now I have 2 beautiful salmon colored flowers with one more to bloom-I am at a lost what to do next-no green thumb here.

    To extend the life of the flower maintain the temperature around 65 degrees and keep it away from direct sunlight. Remove the pollen-bearing stamens inside the flower and cut away any faded blooms but not the flower stalk. Once the plant is done blooming cut off the flower stalk 3-5 inches above the bulb & move it to a sunny spot allowing the leaves grow and fertilize once a month with a balanced fertilizer. It is important to allow the foliage to grow so it can put back the nutrients required for the next season’s blooming. When leaves completely die down, cut them off and store the bulb in a cool 50 degrees for 2-3 months. Plant in the spring in container or outdoors after danger of frost has passed.

    Comment by Laura — 11/17/2005 @ 5:24 am

  7. hello all,
    i have double amaryllis varieties. about 14 of them
    can any one tell me how to propogate them, as they don’t produce any seeds

    Amaryllis can be propagated from off-sets- the little bulbils which develop from the mother bulb. They should be 1/4 to 1/3 the size of the mother plant before they are separated and will bloom in 2-3 years. A good time to separate amaryllis is after the 4 month dormant period before replanting.

    Comment by umi — 12/1/2005 @ 8:26 am

  8. Is it ok to plant two amaryllis bulbs in one pot?

    Yes, you can plant two bulbs or more in one pot. Be sure that the container has drainage holes and is 2 inches bigger in diameter than the bulbs to accomidate the root system.

    Comment by denise — 12/26/2005 @ 5:19 pm

  9. I’m in Southern California and we’ve had a mild winter so far. My amaryllis came from my mother’s original pot of bulbs (seperated because pot was getting too small). I’ve had them in pots for 1 year & had a bloom this summer. The leaves are still very green. I’ve had 1-2 leaves go yellow and I’ve just been pluck them away when needed. My question is, would it be ok to just continue watering and keeping the green leaves as they are or is it necessary to cut the green leaves back and withhold water for 2-3 months for them to flower again?

    Yes, continue watering allowing the leaves to stay green and remove any yellowing leaves when needed. The longer it stays green the more nutrients it will have to store back into the bulb. The bulb will eventually go dormant on its own. Store (55 degrees) it in the container for 8-10 wks. Replant it in the spring and it should rebloom in the summer. In warmer climates they can be planted outdoors in the fall and will bloom in spring.

    Comment by Heather — 1/3/2006 @ 12:24 am

  10. I have an Amaryllis plant with beautiful colours. 4 Blooms with a smaller not yet open one left. We stacked it, but while gone on a weekend vacation it toppled over and the stalk broke, the blooms are now in water, shoud I just keep watering the balance of the stalk and leaves or cut it down, and put it into dormant stage and try again in a few months. I live in Canada and I don’t think our summer is long enough to plant out of doors. The smaller pod I also dont know what to do with.

    Yes, continue to water the bulb and let it grow as eventually it will send out leaf stalks which are needed to replenish the nutrients required for next season’s bloom. Cut the flower stalk 3-5 inches above the bulb but leave the foliage. Allow the smaller pod to grow, amaryllis can produce a second flower stalk to double your pleasure. When it is completely finished blooming place the plant in a sunny window and start to fertilize once a month with a balanced fertilizer to help rebuild the bulb.

    Comment by Charlotte — 1/3/2006 @ 8:15 am

  11. My mom removed the skin around the bulb. Will it survive?

    The skin is a protective layer on the bulb, its better to leave it on but it should be fine as long as the bulb is firm with no soft spots and a creamy color.

    Comment by Ashley — 1/12/2006 @ 5:21 pm

  12. How tall does the Amaryllis usually get before it blooms? Mine is 38 inches tall and no blooms yet.

    Some varieties of Amaryllis have taller stalks than others. Usually the flower stalk comes out first, you may not get a flower this time just the strap like leaves.

    Comment by Gail — 2/1/2006 @ 12:44 pm

  13. My mom gave me an amaryllis plant in January and here it is March and I haven’t seen any blooms? At first I was watering once a week and after that starting watering more often. How can I get mine to bloom or produce flowers?

    Is there any green coming out of the bulb? If you are getting some leaves then at least it’s growing. It is possible that you will not get a flower this time. The flower is predetermined inside the bulb from last year’s growth. If the bulb was not conditioned & cared for properly there might not be a flower.

    Comment by Barbara Cooley — 3/15/2006 @ 8:49 am

  14. We have a number of amaryllis in our yard in Houston that used to have red blooms, but have been mostly white for a couple of years. What has caused this? What can I do to get the red back?

    Some factors that can affect a color change is air temperature, moisture condition and fertility. Is it possible that you also had some white amaryllis growing? If so, the white color may be more dominant and have taken over the red. Sometimes Mother Nature does what she wants

    .

    Comment by Bill Gafford — 3/26/2006 @ 3:34 pm

  15. I have just read on your site the way to grow amaryllis from seed. Unfortunately I just planted them straight into a pot instead of soaking or removing seeds with tweezers and allowing to germinate in water then plant.
    Will my seeds germinate if left with black exterior sheath on them?
    Can anyone advise please

    Other than the water germination method Amaryllis seeds can also be planted soil. Use a light potting soil mix (pro mix, jiffy mix), fill pot 3/4 full, sprinkly seeds on surface and cover with 1/8″ of fine soil. Water and keep moist and warm but not too wet and under 75F. Cover the pot with plastic wrap or place in a plastic bag. The seeds need light to germinate so keep it under a cool light or in indirect sun. If all goes well, germination should occur within a month and you should see tiny leaves emerge. Transplant seedlings into individual pot when leaves are 4″ tall and have pea sized bulbs.
    Removing the black sheath should not affect the germination process. Hope this helps Kris

    Comment by dianne — 9/30/2007 @ 11:33 pm

  16. My mom has a two year amaryllis plant that has produced a 2 ft. leaf only. What should we do. Let it continue to grow or trim it back.

    I need more info… Are the leaves growing after blooming? or has the bulb just been planted after a dormant period and only producing two leaves?

    Comment by chris — 10/17/2007 @ 7:42 pm

  17. I have had several bulbs in my yard for more years than I can remember. I thought the blooming would slow down as an indication that I should seperate them, but they just keep flowering. I’m not complaining, but the bulbs are coming out of the ground. I finally seperated them, but I’m not sure if I am supposed to replant the biggest, smallest or medium sized ones. From what I’ve read on your site, I think the little ones won’t bloom for two to three years. If I plant the biggest ones will they continue to bloom as previously? Should I plant a mixture of large and small?

    I think you almost answered your own question. The biggest ones should continue to bloom as well as the medium sized bulbs as long as they have had good growing conditions during the year. The small ones may or may not produce a flower but with each year of growth will get larger and start blooming within two-three years. You can mix the bulbs or start new groupings with medium bulbs and another with small bulbs-this way you can observe their progress.

    Comment by Lori Armbruster — 11/18/2007 @ 7:38 pm

  18. Thanks for all the above information.
    Does anyone have any idea about the pH (soil acidity) that amaryllis prefers? And, how can you tell which fertilizers have this pH?
    Thanks.

    Amaryllis prefers a soil ph ranging from 5.5-6.0. It grows well in any garden soil as long as it drains well. Most fertilizers will not change the ph except the ones formulated for acidic plants such as Miracid. Fertilize with a balanced house plant fertilizer twice a month after flowering and when leaves are growing.

    Comment by David — 11/26/2007 @ 12:24 pm

  19. How long does a cut amaryllis stem last?

    An amaryllis as a cut flower generally has a vase life of 7-10 days. Cut the flower when the first buds are starting to open.

    Comment by Erica — 2/3/2008 @ 7:30 pm

Leave a comment

Please search before posting, we might already have what you are looking for on the site.
 
HortChat.com© Web

(required)


(required, but not displayed)

authimage


Please note: Comment moderation is currently enabled so there may be a delay between when you post your comment and when it shows up. Patience is a virtue; there’s no need to resubmit your comment.