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Bleeding Heart

BLEEDING HEART (Dicentra spectabilis)
A native of Japan, this beautiful delicate perennial produces arching branches with sprays of dangling heart-shaped flowers that are pink with white tips or solid white. The plant will bloom in the spring through summer and once established is relatively trouble-free. Bleeding heart is hardy to zone 3 -9 and will tolerate the cold winters in Northern states.

bleeding heart

Care
Bleeding heart can be planted in the spring or fall in moist, rich, well-drained soil and in semi-shade to shade. Plant it in an area where is gets direct sun early in the day and avoid the midday full sun, as that will cause the foliage to dieback prematurely. Maintain even moisture during the growing season. If needed place a layer of 1-2 inches of mulch around the plant away from the base to keep the soil evenly moist. When the hot summer sets in, the foliage will turn yellow, die back and go into summer dormancy.

Divide the plant in the spring every 5 years to reduce overcrowding and produce new plants. You can also divide in the fall after the foliage dies back. A mature plant will produce seeds making more give away plants.
Bleeding heart is relatively disease free except for wilt and stem rot caused by a fungus from growing in water-logged, wet soil.

All parts of this plant are poisonous.

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November 13th, 2006 | Category: Bleeding heart, Garden Review | 54 comments
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54 comments to Bleeding Heart

  • Dawn
    June 13th, 2006 at 6:12 am · Reply

    I have 3 huge bleeding heart plants on the side of my house that overgrown. If I cut them back, seperate them and transplant them elsewhere will the plants be smaller when they grow back the next year? When I dug on to share the plant it was all roots. can I take the roots cut them, plant them and have a full bloom the following year?

    The best time to dig them up is in the early spring, although it is also possible in the fall. Space them about 2 feet apart. It’s good to divide them every five years or more to prevent overcrowding. I dig mine up with a part of the root system and a new green sprout and plant in pots or in the yard. Since the fleshy roots are brittle, dig up clumps of 6 inch in diameter. The more mature the plant is, the better chance you have of it blooming the following year.

  • Cathy
    May 6th, 2006 at 6:14 am · Reply

    I planted red and pink bleeding hearts last year and they came up white this year,do you know why

    After some research and discussion with several sources, we came up with one solution that made sense.
    The pink bleeding heart (Dicentra sp.) is the dominant gene and it is highly unlikely that it would revert to white. (the weaker gene).
    The most logical solution came from the Master Gardeners, who suggested that two plants (pink&white) may have been planted together and only the white one survived.

  • Dixie
    April 19th, 2006 at 6:19 am · Reply

    I’m trying to plant Bleeding Heart “bulbs”. They look like dried up roots. I can’t tell “up from down!”. Any clues?

    Try pointed (tips) down. Although the roots shouldn’t be dried up. They should be somewhat fleshy.

    • Debbie
      March 5th, 2010 at 3:27 pm · Reply

      Roots
      I just bought a bleeding heart and it looks like an octopus. Are the octopus legs the roots, do they go down in the dirt, or are they the branches. Confused!!

      HI Debbie
      They are the roots and should be planted pointed end down.

  • Maggie Downing
    May 13th, 2006 at 6:21 am · Reply

    I would like to know if I put a Bleeding Heart in a large pot, will it do well?

    Should do ok, but it will die back from the heat by mid summer and go dormant. Keep it evenly moist and the foliage will stay longer

  • Jackie
    February 18th, 2007 at 8:54 am · Reply

    my bleeding heart is yellowing what can I do?

    That’s normal. They die back in late summer and will return next spring. When the foliage die down, cut it back to the ground.

  • Sadie
    February 22nd, 2007 at 11:14 am · Reply

    I’m trying to start a bleeding heart root in a terra cotta pot, unfortunately, I buried the whole root and did not leave the crown above the soil. Will it even grow now? It has only been in the pot a few days. Also, if I do leave it in the pot as is, how moist should the root be before it comes up?

    The crown should be planted at the soil line,or the same depth that it was growing at, otherwise it may just rot. I would suggest you dig it up and bring the crown up to the soil surface. You will have better chance of success. Keep the well drained soil evenly moist -not wet.

  • Debbie Smit
    April 9th, 2007 at 12:05 pm · Reply

    I HAVE A BLEEDING HEART PLANT AND
    IT WAS COMING ALONG GOOD UNTIL THE
    FROST GOT TO IT. DO I CUT IT BACK, AND
    WILL IT GROW THIS YEAR?

    THANK YOU DEBBIE

    Debbie,
    Just leave it for the time being and see how much damage it incurred. If it is a mature plant, the roots probably did not freeze and it should continue to grow new leaves when it warms up. Your frost bit leaves will become unsightly and eventually you can trim them later in the season.

  • Julia
    April 14th, 2007 at 4:19 am · Reply

    What can I co-plant with my bleeding hearts that will come up when the plants die down in the summer?

    You can combine any shade/semi-shade plant with your bleeding heart. For starters try, astilbe, baby’s breath hosta, goutweed, wild ginger, periwinkle, pachysandra, iris or forget-me-not. Add some colorful annuals such as impatiens, begonia, coleus which will fill in your shady garden nicely after the bleeding heart has died back.

  • Sue
    May 12th, 2007 at 6:17 pm · Reply

    Can a bleeding heart be divided in spring once leaves are already up?

    thanks!

    It depends on how far along the plant is. If the leaves are 3″ high that should be ok. If the plant is fully opened then your chances of a successful division is reduced. The plant has used up all its energy to emerge. When you divide a fully leafed out plant, the stressed roots cannot support all the leaves. If you try it, do it on a cloudy, cool day and water the plant before dividing. Place the division in a cool, shady spot and water well, keeping it moist until you see signs of new growth.

  • mark
    May 16th, 2007 at 3:52 am · Reply

    I MOVED INTO A HOUSE THAT HAS A BLEEDING HEART THAT NOW( MID MAY) IS IN FULL BLOOM IT IS ABOUT 2 FEET TALL AND 3 FEET ROUND, WHAT IS DIVIDING? IT HAS TAKEN OVER THE AREA WHERE PLANTED AND I WOULD LIKE TO SPREAD IT AROUND I KNOW PRUNING WONT WORK SINCE IT DIED DOWN LAST YEAR AND COMES BACK BIGGER EACH YEAR
    THANKS
    M

    Dividing a bleeding heart is digging up a section of the plant with a root system. Be careful how you handle the roots as they are brittle and break easily. Division is best in early spring just as new growth appears but you can also do it in the fall. From the size of your plant, I’m sure you will also find seedlings in your flower bed that you can transplant.

  • Rose
    May 23rd, 2007 at 1:38 pm · Reply

    Every time I try to transplant a piece of bleeding heart it dies. What am I doing wrong.

    The best time to transplant is in early spring, when the plant is 3 inches tall and leaves are just coming out. A fully leafed out plant uses up a lot of energy to get to that point so when you dig it up and disturb the roots, it has a hard time maintaining all those leaves. When transplanting make sure you water it in well and that it stays moist and not allowed to dry out. Try a transplant fertilizer which helps speed up root development. Also consider the area-is the soil well drained? Is it in semi- shade? If you have small seedlings growing around the mother plant you can transplant those at anytime. I have had good luck with digging up the very young seedlings and growing them in a pot until they get a good root structure. Hope this is of some help to you.

  • Cindy Berry
    May 26th, 2007 at 6:15 pm · Reply

    I just recently bought a bleeding heart with the fern like leaves and it was doing okay and now it looks like it has shrunk and is drying up. I need help because I don’t want to loose another one. Please help!
    Thanks a bunch,
    Cindy from KY>

    Hi Cindy
    It may be possible that your bleeding heart (Dicentra eximia) is planted in the wrong spot. It may be too dry, too hot, too much sun (prefer light shade). They don’t like clayey or waterlogged soil but need rich, well-drained soil. New transplants need extra TLC until they can establish a good root system.

  • Sharon Aleckson
    July 4th, 2007 at 6:48 pm · Reply

    My bleeding hearts are huge plants and though gradually yellowing, not dying back very quickly. The hostas and astilbe around them are somewhat buried by the foliage. Would it be OK to trim the bleeding heart foliage enough to get them more light?

    If the bleeding heart is starting to yellow then you can trim it back. If not you can still trim it back, as long as the plant is well established, I don’t think it will harm it and your other plants will be happy. I just did the same thing. I cut back my yellowing bleeding heart so the annuals I planted in front of it can get more light and bloom.

  • Pamela
    September 24th, 2007 at 6:40 pm · Reply

    I planted a white bleeding heart about 3 or 4 years ago. It always comes up, and grows bigger each year but has never had many blooms. Any suggestions? I live in Seattle and the plant gets very early morning sun and very late (6-8 pm) afternoon/evening sun. I have hostas, hardy fuschia, salamons seal, columbine, toad lilies, fox glove, and monks hood in the same garden. All do well.

  • Renee Cory
    October 7th, 2007 at 6:57 pm · Reply

    I have 2 bleeding heart bulbs to plant and they just look like dried up roots. I can’t tell where the crown is. Help!

    Look for a growing point or an eye, if you don’t see it, plant the bare-root pointed tip down and 1 inch below the soil surface.

  • Julie Burdette
    October 9th, 2007 at 11:30 am · Reply

    I live in RI and have a Bleeding Heart that is a georgous plant and the mother of many plants handed to many family and friends. We cut it back each yr when the leaves turn yellow and it comes back bigger and better each time. This past winter I brought home a piece of my mothers that came from FL. It’s different in that it has a more woody stem. I have planted it in a large pot and it has grown well all summer but I am not sure how to treat it for the winter. Since this plant came from FL and does not die back after flowering I don’t know if I should plant it in the ground and hope it makes it during our hard winters or should I bring it in the house or maybe our root cellar?

    Bleeding heart (Dicentra) should be hardy in our area, I’m surprised it grows in Florida as it doesn’t like hot weather-it must grow there in the cooler season. You can either plant it in the ground and mulch it well to keep the roots from freezing or store it dormant in a garage, cellar and plant it next spring.

  • Caitlin
    May 3rd, 2008 at 5:50 am · Reply

    I just recently found a small bleeding heart plant in an old flower bed beside my new house. I want to get it out of there and put it in a pot. How should I go about transplanting it?

    Dig up as much of the roots, dig a larger clump of soil than you expect, you can always remove the soil around the roots. Fill a container half way with good potting soil , insert the clump of roots and cover with more soil. Water in well and put it in a shaded area for a few days. Small plants are easily transplanted.

  • Cyndi
    May 21st, 2008 at 6:47 pm · Reply

    HI,
    Someone gave me a large cutting of a bleeding heart as a gift. It of course was already in full bloom. Right now it is sitting in water. Can I put it in the ground?
    Thanks, Cyndi

    Hi Cyndi
    Does it have a root? If it does rather than keeping it in water, put it in a pot of soil or plant it directly in the ground. Be sure to water it in and give it some shade until it builds up new roots. If it has no roots treat it as a cut flower.

  • Katie
    May 24th, 2008 at 7:28 pm · Reply

    I purchased a white bleeding heart from a local nursery a couple of weeks ago and planted on north facing side of house with hostas. I’m zone 7, but I think it might be a little too early for yellowing/dieback for summer…it’s only the end of May!? HELP! This plant looks like it’s about shrivel up into nothing!

    Hi Katie
    It is too early for them to turn yellow . You might want to check the base of the plant’s stem and see if its turning black which would be a sign of wilt and stem rot. This is caused by a fungus that causes the leaves to turn yellow and wilt and stems to fall over. Rot usually happens when the soil doesn’t drain well or the plant is overwatered- too much rain. Transplanting and getting accilmated to new growing conditions, hot and dry weather will also cause the leaves to yellow and the plant to go dormant.

  • ESTHER COEN
    June 6th, 2008 at 9:14 am · Reply

    I HAVE A BLEEDINGHEART THAT HAS TURNED YELLOW AND IS HAS VERY LONG STEMS WITH VERY LITTLE FLOWERS.AAAI STARTED OUT THE WAY IT SHOULD AND THEN WENT TO THIS DISCRIPTION

    Hi Esther
    Bleeding heart will usually turn yellow and die back after flowering, esp. when the weather warms up and gets hot and dry. Once the leaves turn yellow or die cut them back to the ground.

  • hollee
    June 21st, 2008 at 1:24 pm · Reply

    i planted two bleeding hearts this year, they had a few blooms on them, but they faded to a very light pale pink. and the one that is in more sun had completely lost its blooms. the other in more shade seems to be getting a new branch of blooms. I am afraid my soil is not the best it has a lot of little pebbles in it. Also could you explain even moisture i am just watering it the same as all my other plants and flowers.

    Hi Hollee
    Bleeding hearts prefer shade and will fade faster in more sun and heat. Once they get established and develop a good root system, they will linger longer. To maintain even moisture is to make sure that the plant soil does not dry out between watering and at the same time isn’t soaking wet. It’s a fine balance of a moist surface but not soggy soil. If the top 1 inch of soil is dry then water. The pebbles are fine as long as the soil drains well.

  • Lenore Barnett
    July 13th, 2008 at 11:19 am · Reply

    I have 2 Bleeding heart plants that look very healthy but no flowers.What do you suggest?

    Hi Lenore
    At this time of year, bleeding heart is done blooming. It will dieback in late summer and bloom next spring.

  • Randy
    July 24th, 2008 at 5:17 am · Reply

    I live on Cape Cod. Should winter care of the Bleeding heart include, cutting back, & covering with burlap and straw.
    I prefer not to dig it up.
    Thank you

    Hi Randy
    Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) is hardy in zone 3-9. I’m sure Cape Cod falls within that zone. Once established, it needs little care. Leave it in the ground. Cut back the browned foliage and mulch(optional) it after a hard frost.

  • Lisa
    September 21st, 2008 at 7:18 am · Reply

    Can you bring a bleeding heart inside for the winter? I have it in a pot on my porch.

    HI Lisa
    Bleeding heart needs a cold dormant period. You can bring it indoors and enjoy it until the leaves yellow and die back. I would let it die back with the cold weather and keep the pot in the garage for the winter. Protect the container from extreme cold by wrapping it with insulation(bubble wrap etc.)

  • Tanya
    October 14th, 2008 at 6:47 pm · Reply

    Planting bleeding heart roots
    Hi, I have just purchased three packets of dicentra (bleeding heart) apparently they are fleshy roots. I need help to plant them so that they do not die.I purchased potting mix and have the perfect spot for them in my garden but i am now worried after all these comments that I am going to stuff this help, please help

    Hi Tanya
    Bleeding hearts can be planted this time of year. I suggest you do it right away. To plant dig a hole about 1 ft deep, enough to make room for the long fleshy roots to fit in. Mix in organic material such as compost or peat if needed. Plant it so that the crown of the plant is at soil level. Fill in with soil and water well. After the soil freezes, add 2 inches of mulch around the plant to protect the roots in winter. They should be spaced at least 2 feet apart as they will develop a large extensive root system.

  • LKS
    February 16th, 2009 at 8:07 am · Reply

    Dividing bleeding heart
    My bleeding heart has become woody at the bottom and very top heavy with leaves at the top. I have never cut it back. What is the rule on cutting the back? When? and how far back should they be cut?

    Bleeding heart is a perennial that will die back to the ground each year, so pruning isn’t necessary. I cut it back in early fall when the foliage turns yellow and dies back.
    Pruning in early spring will reduce the amount of flowers. I have trimmed it after the main flush of flowering to control the size. It will send out new stems and prolong additional bloom. As they age, the center of the clump will become woody and eventually dry up and die. This is a good indicator that it needs to be divided. Clumps can be divided every 5 years. The roots will spread underground and start new plants around the woody center. The crowded plants/roots should then be divided or thinned out. Do this in early spring just when new growth starts to show. Also look at the base of the plant, if conditions are right you may have lots of baby plants growing from seed. You’ll have plenty of new bleeding hearts to give to your friends.

  • gary
    February 22nd, 2009 at 12:59 pm · Reply

    i PLANTED 2 foot pants last spring. The vines grew over 12 feet and my wall is completely covered in vines that have gone through a north Texas winter and are brown. Do I trim them back, they completelely covered a trellis and wall. It was beautiful all season and I do not want to trim back if new growth will come from the existing brown vines

    Hi Gary
    There’s no telling whether your Bleeding heart vines (Clerodendrum thompsoniae) have winter damage and the vines died or it dropped its leaves from the cold. They are marginally hardy in your area since they are listed as hardy in zones 9-12 but in protected areas can winterover. You can wait and see if the vine will send out new growth or cut it back since they do respond well to severe pruning.

  • LKS
    February 23rd, 2009 at 6:12 am · Reply

    Only one problem, my plant never dies back nor does it stop flowering. Therefore, I don’t know when or if I should trim it back. It is growing on a trellis and is nothing but wood at the bottom and top heavy. It did receive some frost damage at the top this winter.
    Can I trim it back?

    I believe the bleeding heart plant you are referring to is Clerodendrum thompsoniae commonly referred to as Glory Bower or Bleeding Hearts vine. This twining evergreen vine blooms in spring-summer. This is not the same plant as Dicentra spectabilis bleeding heart. Using common names can sometimes become a problem because there may be several plants that have the same common name but are completely different.
    Glory Bower is a beautiful twining evergreen vine that flowers in spring-summer and has blooms that resemble D. spectabilis. Pruning is recommended after flowering cycle or anytime growth becomes excessive as they grow back vigorously when pruned severly. Trim it before it starts to put on new growth.-Most likely now.

  • Mia
    February 23rd, 2009 at 12:54 pm · Reply

    Hi, I just planted two dried roots of bleeding heart in a 10-inch pot yesterday. Is the pot too small for 2 roots? Many thanks!

    Hi Mia
    A 10″ pot sounds large enough. You can always repot if it gets too crowded.

  • Mia
    March 6th, 2009 at 3:46 pm · Reply

    Thanks for the earlier reply.
    I’ve planted the roots for about 2 weeks, but nothing comes up yet.
    Is this normal? How lond does it take for the root to develop? (I am in Texas).
    Thanks again!!

    It may be waiting for the weather to warm up.

  • Jeanie
    March 18th, 2009 at 3:57 pm · Reply

    I just bought 3 bleeding hearts roots or bulbs but it is too soon to plant them, how should I store them?

    Hi Jeanie
    If the ground is workable (not too wet) then you can plant them. If the soil is too wet to dig, keep the roots in some slightly moist soil in the garage(cool spot) until you can plant them.

  • veronica
    March 26th, 2009 at 2:01 pm · Reply

    I have a piece of bleeding heart plant that broke off of my mother-in-laws plant.I was wondering how i could root it so that i could plant it or if i could plant it without the roots and would it grow.What should it do?

    Is this a vine?

  • Amanda
    April 1st, 2009 at 12:07 pm · Reply

    I planted 10 bleeding hearts in my yard about 2 weeks ago. I live in North Ga. It has been relatively warm. around the 60’s and they still haven’t come up. I planted some Glads also the same day, and they have already come up. Should they have already came up?

    Bleeding heart roots may take a little longer to come up.

  • Yvonne Pride
    April 3rd, 2009 at 11:17 am · Reply

    Are bleeding hearts plants or shrubs?

    Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis and D. eximia) are perennial plants. They can grow up to 3 ft tall but die back in the summer/fall.

  • Amy
    April 5th, 2009 at 7:52 am · Reply

    We had bleeding hearts in the yard last summer when we moved in. After we raked a lot in the Fall, I noticed the bleeding hearts were gone (after they died). Will they keep coming up on their own each season?

    Hi Amy
    Bleeding heart is a perennial and will return each year. They usually die back in late summer.

  • Sharon
    April 13th, 2009 at 9:44 am · Reply

    Thank you for all the above suggestions. Previewing the questions asked has covered what I needed to know. I appreciate your site.

    Thanks again

  • Mrs. B
    April 26th, 2009 at 8:33 am · Reply

    I live in Massachusetts. As most people may know, we sometimes get harsh winters. I planted my bleeding hearts in front of my house, about 2 feet from the road. Will they survive there or will all the snow and chemicals that get plowed from the street kill them? This is the first time I am planting something here and the plants are fairly new. They are about 1 foot in height. Should I move them inside in the winter?

    HI
    Bleeding heart is listed as being a salt tolerant perennial. They die back to the ground. One thing you can do is to give the soil a good watering in the spring to leach the salts out of the soil. They do need a well-drained soil and light shade to grow well.
    You don’t have to bring it inside for the winter they are a hardy perennial and will survive a Mass. winter in the ground.

  • becca
    May 11th, 2009 at 6:56 pm · Reply

    Planting bleeding heart roots
    I bought 2 bleeding heart roots. I m not sure which way to plant them… on one side there are white things coming out. I think it may be the roots but im not sure.. can you help?

    Hi Becca
    Plant the pointed tip of the fleshy roots down into the ground. Make sure you dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the roots. The white things may be new roots emerging. New top growth would look like light green crinkly sprouts which should be above the soil line.

  • Heidi
    May 15th, 2009 at 11:23 am · Reply

    I planted a bleeding heart on the south facing side of our new house in 2005 (located in MN). I’ve read that it’s normal for the plant to flower, yellow and die back..such is the normal cycle. Thing is, in my plant’s case, it had reached maturity and full bloom by the first week of May this year. It’s only May 15 and while most other bleeding hearts are only 10″ tall now at relatives homes, mine is already beginnning to yellow and die back. So, my question to you is how soon can I dig it up and move it. Obviously it’s in a too sunny spot and needs to be placed elsewhere. I’m concerned about damaging the root system, so how do I dig it up and when could I?

    HI Heidi
    Once it dies back to the ground, mark the area and transplant it in late summer/early fall to your new spot.

  • joni
    May 16th, 2009 at 2:14 pm · Reply

    unsure how to plant bleeding heart root which way is which?
    one end has 4-5 long tubular lite whiteish yellow and fleshy i dont know if this is the stem or the roots.the other end shortlittle root looking thing growing from it..please help

    Hi Joni
    The roots are firm to the touch like a carrot or parsnip. The roots are long carrot-like “tubes”. If you can squeeze the tubular “stem” and its juicy then its a stem. can you send me a picture?

  • amie
    May 25th, 2009 at 7:18 pm · Reply

    i have a beatiful potted bleeding heart. Last winter I wasn’t sure what to do with it so i stuck it in our shed. I brought it out a few weeks ago and I’m thrilled to see it is growing foliage! My question is how early could I have brought it our from the shed? we live in ohio zone 6. All of our neighbor’s bleeding hearts are already blooming. Thanks for your help!

    Hi Amie
    Bleeding heart are quite hardy and start showing up in March/early April (early spring). The only time the tender foliage needs protection is when there is a frost emminent.

  • carolyn
    May 27th, 2009 at 2:13 pm · Reply

    My Bleeding heart flowers have already fallen and the leaves on one of the plants are starting to turn yellow. it is only May 27 and I thought the flowers would last further into summer, which is what they did last year. could too much rain or cold nights have caused this?

  • Bonnie
    June 2nd, 2009 at 4:24 am · Reply

    I planted two bleeding hearts this year. One gets just a little bit more shade than the other – not much though. The only that is getting the shade is doing very well. The other one is turning yellow and looks like it is going to die. Should I replant the yellowing one?

    Hi Bonnie
    Bleeding heart prefers a semi-shaded area and will last longer in a shaded area. It usually, turns yellow and dies back to the ground in summer when temperatures heat up. An established plant will tolerate more sun than a newly planted one. It may grow better next year. If you want to move it, wait till the fall to transplant it.

  • Glenn Schwanberg
    June 13th, 2009 at 2:20 pm · Reply

    This is the second year for my bleeding hearts plant. The overall plant is growing and looking healthy but there are not a lot of buds and flowers. It looks sparce. Do they need a lot of fertilizer?

    Hi Glen
    Bleeding heart needs rich organic soil and once established do not need a lot of fertilizer. An annual application of compost or some type of organic fertilizer in spring should be sufficient. Your bleeding heart may not be blooming as much because it is not getting enough sun or if you fertilized the soil with too much nitrogen (first #). Also, they seem to bloom better as they get older, mine are 20 yrs old and I don’t feed them, but they are in well-drained, rich organic soil.

  • Debbie
    June 25th, 2009 at 4:22 am · Reply

    my bleeding hearts did not flower this spring and plant turned yellow by mid june. Lives in mostly shade and is well watered by sprinkler system. What am I doing wrong?

    HI Debbie
    Your bleeding heart may need more light to bloom. You don’t say how old it is. If it is newly planted then it may need another year to mature. Bleeding heart normally turns yellow and dies back when the weather warms up.

  • Gin
    June 30th, 2009 at 1:24 pm · Reply

    Can I transplant my bleeding heart plant now without hurting it? It’s a big plant and is till green Thanks

    HI Gin
    Wait until it dies back-turns brown, then transplant it. If you transplant it now, the plant will suffer. It will wilt and look bad but most likely will survive.

  • Sheri
    July 5th, 2009 at 1:39 pm · Reply

    I have a bleeding heart, which has a northeast exposure. It gets morning sun and has bloomed beaufifully last late spring/early summer and this late spring/early summer. Both last year and this year after the blooms are gone, the entire plant turns yellow. Last summer I cut the plant down right away. I haven’t done that yet and I’m not sure what I should do. I see other bleeding hearts in my neighborhood and the plants remain green all summer. Please let me know what the problem might be and how to correct it.

    Hi Sheri
    Bleeding heart naturally dies back after bloom, especially if the summer is hot and dry. Evenly moist soil may keep it green and prolong bloom for a little while longer but it will turn yellow/brown by the end of summer. I cut away my yellowing foliage and plant some colorful annuals to fill in with color. You can also plant perennials such as hosta, babies -breath to fill in when your bleeding heart is gone. Perhaps your neighbors plants are in a protected cooler, shaded area that keeps them growing longer.

  • Sheri
    July 19th, 2009 at 10:20 am · Reply

    I have two bleeeding heart plants that I started from a bulb I have had them for two years and have never pruned them or cut them back. One of them is so very BIG it is overtaking. When and how is the best time to try get another plant out of them and will it do ok? The wind broke stems off it last year and it still came back bigger in size than last year. can I divide is now a good time….I’d like to start another plant but not sure the best way to go about it….but it is HUGE! Any help would be appreciated.

    Hi Sherri
    Fall is a good time to divide bleeding heart. Once the foliage has died back to the ground. Spring is even better.

  • Pat
    August 8th, 2009 at 8:24 am · Reply

    I live in the Buffalo NY area. I have lots of baby bleeding hearts. Can I pot them now, in August, to hold over the winter?

    Hi Pat
    You don’t mention where & how you are planning to winter over the plants. If you leave them outdoors in pots, the roots will freeze. Unless you are digging them up to give away or to transplant, I would wait till the spring.

  • teai
    September 25th, 2009 at 7:08 pm · Reply

    I have my first bleeding heart plant and i need to know if i am supposed to cut it down and how low before winter hits.

    HI Teai
    We’re refering to a bleeding heart plant not the vine. If it hasn’t died back by now cold weather will do the job. Once the stems turn brown, cut them down to the ground.

  • Jamie
    September 26th, 2009 at 3:14 pm · Reply

    I have a Bleeding Heart and I was wondering if I am able to take a cutting of it and root it?

    Hi Jamie
    Are you referring to the Bleeding heart vine or the perennial?

  • Jim
    October 6th, 2009 at 5:56 pm · Reply

    I planted a pink bleeding heart plant several several years ago and it blooms every year but it never got any larger or fuller than when I first planted it. The plant gets about 15 inches tall and consistantly has six stems every year. I have seen them in other areas and they look like bushes and are twice as tall as mine.

    Hi Jim
    My bleeding heart did that as well. It was growing next to a birch tree, when the tree died it started growing like crazy and almost took over the whole bed. There may be competition for moisture, nutrients and sun from other plants. You might want to fertilize them in the spring and see if that will boost their growth. Also,they don’t grow well in clay soil.

  • Becky
    December 1st, 2009 at 2:29 pm · Reply

    Bleeding Heart vine
    I have a very large plant with a 3 x 5 dark green flat, sorta heart shaped leaf. The bloom is white with five petals and deep red bloom in the middle. I bought the plant as a Bleeding Heart 20 years ago. The plant is in a large clay pot that winters in a heated room. I need to know when and how to prune it and also what is it. I know you like these types of questions!
    Thank you

    Hi Becky
    What you describe is a Bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thompsoniae) also known as Glory bower vine. Prune it in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. Don’t be afriaid to prune severely and remove any old or dead stems. After pruning water and move the plant to a sunny spot. It blooms on new growth so a good pruning will stimulate new bushy growth and more flowers. In warmer climates you would prune it right after bloom.

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