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Climbing Hydrangea

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Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris known as Climbing Hydrangea is considered the best of vines. This attractive climber grows a cinnamon exfoliating bark with deep glossy green foliage. It produces a waterfall of fragrant clusters of white flowers 6-10 inches wide attached to a 1 inch stalk making it a stunning vine when in bloom.

Plant in rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun or shade. A North or East side of a building is preferred. In hotter climates provide more shade and moisture. Be sure to provide a sturdy structure for it to climb on.
Climbing hydrangea will be slow to establish the first year; the fibrous roots take time to recover from transplanting. During this time maintain even moisture and because of minimal growth feed it very little. Do not prune in the juvenile stage. Once established, it will take off and eventually grow 50-70 ft high and 30-40 ft wide. This vigorous climber will develop tenacious aerial roots that “cement” themselves to bark, brick, wood, vinyl siding which can be a problem when removing the vine. The residue left by the aerial roots is difficult to remove. Avoid planting against a Maple tree as it will compete for moisture.

Blooming
When the vine reaches adult stage it will grow multi branched stems that produce flattened clusters of white flowers that change to light green with age. The vine blooms on old wood and can take 6-10 years to start blooming. It blooms in May thru July.
The vine can be pruned after flowering.

Propagation: Take cuttings in early spring when shoots are green and soft.

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7 Comments on Climbing Hydrangea»

  1. Climbing Hydrangea: can climbing hydrangea’s be grown on cyclone fencing, thankyou, rick

    Hi Rick,
    Climbing hydrangea is not a good choice for a chain link fence. It does not climb by twining itself around the support rather it clings to surfaces with rootlike tendrils that have adhesive disks on the ends. It needs a flat surface such as brick, stone or masonary wall to adhere to. It is also a slow grower from the start and would take a few years to fill in. There are other vines you can try, for a quick cover try some of the annual vines such as morning glory, hyacinth bean (Dolichos lablab , red cardinal climber, baloon vine, Black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata), Scarlet Runner Bean (Phaselous coccineus) and Mina lobata. Perennial vines may take longer to get started but return each year. Some suggestions are Hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta), Fiveleaf Akebia, Porcelian vine, trumpet vine, clematis, Hop vine (Humulus ) and wisteria. Some are known for their beautiful flowers others for interesting leaf shape and texture. When selecting a vine, sun exposure, soil and hardiness should be considered.

    Comment by rick schulte — 4/28/2008 @ 8:35 am

  2. I have a climbing Hydrangea planted four years ago. Bloomed 2nd year deer ate all blooms has not bloomed since. It is healthy and in partly shaded area, has not been given any fertilizer. Any suggestions of what we need to do to get it to bloom?

    Thanks,
    Angela rice

    Comment by Angela Rice — 6/7/2008 @ 7:23 am

  3. Hi:
    I planted two climbing hydrangea vines this spring. They are planted on a north facing fence and get some morning sun. They seem to be doing well except that on one of them the leaves are turning red. What could be the cause of this?
    Thank you
    Ann

    Are they in the same location? Is the environment (sun, soil drainage) the same for both vines? Red leaves can indicate some root stress.
    Another indicator for leaves turning red is that the roots are not getting enough water or that there is some kind of damage incurred, possibly by an animal.

    Comment by Ann Martinez — 6/15/2008 @ 8:02 am

  4. my climbing hydrangea was growing up a brick wall. someone or something pulled it away from the wall. are there any types of clips i can use to reposition it until new rootlets take hold?

    Hi Dianne
    Try the support clips that are available for displaying pictures on brick walls. They do not damage the brick or mortar and no holes to drill. Put one on each side and feed a wire accross to hold up the vine until it re-attaches itself to the brick. You can then , remove the clips.

    Comment by dianne galleshaw — 6/25/2008 @ 10:52 am

  5. I just bought a house that has a beautiful climbing hydrangea along an entire side of the house. I suspect it is 10-20 years old but all of the growth comes from 2 stems. This results in some spotty growth near the top of the wall in a few areas. I am going to try your tip with using picture support clips.
    Would there be any harm in trying to take some cuttings and add them to the wall, or do these plants like that kind of crowding? Also, are soft wood cuttings the best for propagation or will the plant make viable seeds?

    Hi Matty
    There would be no harm in adding more cuttings. You can propagate the vine by layering (serpentine layering) or use cuttings (before the stems turn brown) of non-flowering shoots. Get cuttings with 2-3 pairs of leaves, remove one set of lower leaves and root in a sandy soil in the shade. They can also be started from seed that has been cold stratified for 2-3 months. Pruning after bloom will also help it get bushier

    Comment by Matty — 7/5/2008 @ 9:59 am

  6. We bought what was labeled a spreading hydrangea. It is low and spreading very slowly along a fence. We planted it 3 years ago. How do care for it? Should we dead head it and if so when? Should we prune branches or old leaves and if so when?

    You probably have Hydrangea petiolaris which is a climbing/spreading plant. It is usually slow to start but once it gets established it will grow rapidly. Maintain even moisture and well-drained soil, fertilize little when young. Grow in full sun or partial shade. This is a vining type hydrangea needs a sturdy structure to clilmb on. It doesn’t require much pruning until it’s well established and then only when you want to control the growth. In fact too much pruning can delay blooming for years. I would leave it alone.

    Comment by John Roberts — 7/10/2008 @ 2:28 pm

  7. gary anderson ( garyandersn@aol.com
    The tag on my plant says hydrangia petiolaris. It’s been in 2 years, the vines are healthly looking, bright green, but nothing that looks like a flower or bloom. I’m in partial shade, but vines look great as well as leaves. Where are my flowers? I did not trim it back last year…Thanks..can you help me? I’m in upstate new york, sidney to be exact.

    Hydrangea petolaris is a slower starter and needs little pruning. Excessive pruning will delay blooming for several years. It blooms in mid-summer in part shade /full sun.

    Comment by Gary Anderson — 7/10/2008 @ 2:29 pm

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