Translator

Climbing Hydrangea

Climbing hydrangea

Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris known as Climbing Hydrangea is considered the best of vines. This attractive climber grows a cinnamon exfoliating bark with deep glossy green foliage. It produces a waterfall of fragrant clusters of white flowers 6-10 inches wide attached to a 1 inch stalk making it a stunning vine when in bloom.

Plant in rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun or shade. A North or East side of a building is preferred. In hotter climates provide more shade and moisture. Be sure to provide a sturdy structure for it to climb on.
Climbing hydrangea will be slow to establish the first year; the fibrous roots take time to recover from transplanting. During this time maintain even moisture and because of minimal growth feed it very little. Do not prune in the juvenile stage. Once established, it will take off and eventually grow 50-70 ft high and 30-40 ft wide. This vigorous climber will develop tenacious aerial roots that “cement” themselves to bark, brick, wood, vinyl siding which can be a problem when removing the vine. The residue left by the aerial roots is difficult to remove. Avoid planting against a Maple tree as it will compete for moisture.

Blooming
When the vine reaches adult stage it will grow multi branched stems that produce flattened clusters of white flowers that change to light green with age. The vine blooms on old wood and can take 6-10 years to start blooming. It blooms in May thru July.
The vine can be pruned after flowering.

Propagation: Take cuttings in early spring when shoots are green and soft.

  1. Endless Summer Hydrangea ‘Endless Summer ‘ Hydrangea is part of a small group of Hydrangea...
  2. Hydrangia care I have very large healthy Hydrangia foliage but no flowers.  Why?? First...
  3. Shooting star hydrangea I just purchased two Shooting Star hydrangeas, also known as Fiji Waterfalls,...
  4. Growing Clematis CLEMATIS Rumor has it that clematis vine is difficult to grow. Given...
  5. Florist Hydrangea I have a beautiful potted hydrangea that I received from the florist...
  6. Morning Glory vine If you need to cover a trellis or fence in a short...
  7. Trumpet vine I have 2 trumpet vines, planted last year. This year there were...

27 comments to Climbing Hydrangea

  • rick schulte

    Climbing Hydrangea: can climbing hydrangea’s be grown on cyclone fencing, thankyou, rick

    Hi Rick,
    Climbing hydrangea is not a good choice for a chain link fence. It does not climb by twining itself around the support rather it clings to surfaces with rootlike tendrils that have adhesive disks on the ends. It needs a flat surface such as brick, stone or masonary wall to adhere to. It is also a slow grower from the start and would take a few years to fill in. There are other vines you can try, for a quick cover try some of the annual vines such as morning glory, hyacinth bean (Dolichos lablab , red cardinal climber, baloon vine, Black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata), Scarlet Runner Bean (Phaselous coccineus) and Mina lobata. Perennial vines may take longer to get started but return each year. Some suggestions are Hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta), Fiveleaf Akebia, Porcelian vine, trumpet vine, clematis, Hop vine (Humulus ) and wisteria. Some are known for their beautiful flowers others for interesting leaf shape and texture. When selecting a vine, sun exposure, soil and hardiness should be considered.

  • Ann Martinez

    Hi:
    I planted two climbing hydrangea vines this spring. They are planted on a north facing fence and get some morning sun. They seem to be doing well except that on one of them the leaves are turning red. What could be the cause of this?
    Thank you
    Ann

    Are they in the same location? Is the environment (sun, soil drainage) the same for both vines? Red leaves can indicate some root stress.
    Another indicator for leaves turning red is that the roots are not getting enough water or that there is some kind of damage incurred, possibly by an animal.

  • dianne galleshaw

    my climbing hydrangea was growing up a brick wall. someone or something pulled it away from the wall. are there any types of clips i can use to reposition it until new rootlets take hold?

    Hi Dianne
    Try the support clips that are available for displaying pictures on brick walls. They do not damage the brick or mortar and no holes to drill. Put one on each side and feed a wire accross to hold up the vine until it re-attaches itself to the brick. You can then , remove the clips.

  • Matty

    Propagate climbing hydrangea
    I just bought a house that has a beautiful climbing hydrangea along an entire side of the house. I suspect it is 10-20 years old but all of the growth comes from 2 stems. This results in some spotty growth near the top of the wall in a few areas. I am going to try your tip with using picture support clips.
    Would there be any harm in trying to take some cuttings and add them to the wall, or do these plants like that kind of crowding? Also, are soft wood cuttings the best for propagation or will the plant make viable seeds?

    Hi Matty
    There would be no harm in adding more cuttings. You can propagate the vine by layering (serpentine layering) or use cuttings (before the stems turn brown) of non-flowering shoots. Get cuttings with 2-3 pairs of leaves, remove one set of lower leaves and root in a sandy soil in the shade. They can also be started from seed that has been cold stratified for 2-3 months. Pruning after bloom will also help it get bushier

  • John Roberts

    We bought what was labeled a spreading hydrangea. It is low and spreading very slowly along a fence. We planted it 3 years ago. How do care for it? Should we dead head it and if so when? Should we prune branches or old leaves and if so when?

    You probably have Hydrangea petiolaris which is a climbing/spreading plant. It is usually slow to start but once it gets established it will grow rapidly. Maintain even moisture and well-drained soil, fertilize little when young. Grow in full sun or partial shade. This is a vining type hydrangea needs a sturdy structure to clilmb on. It doesn’t require much pruning until it’s well established and then only when you want to control the growth. In fact too much pruning can delay blooming for years. I would leave it alone.

  • Gary Anderson

    Pruning climbing hydrangea
    The tag on my plant says hydrangia petiolaris. It’s been in 2 years, the vines are healthly looking, bright green, but nothing that looks like a flower or bloom. I’m in partial shade, but vines look great as well as leaves. Where are my flowers? I did not trim it back last year…Thanks..can you help me? I’m in upstate new york, sidney to be exact.

    Hydrangea petolaris is a slower starter and needs little pruning. Excessive pruning will delay blooming for several years. It blooms in mid-summer in part shade /full sun.

  • Diane

    I read all the articles on the Climbing hydrangeas and nothing helped me. My problem with mine is that I have had it for 6 years now and has only grown to about 3 feet and has never bloomed. I have it planted on the north side of the house and next to a fence for support. it has plentry of shade. Help!

    Hi Diane
    As you may have read, climbing hydrangeas are notoriuosly slow to start. Because yours is soo slow, I would suspect that it needs more light to speed up the blooming process. It also likes well-drained rich soil and cool roots.

  • Sharon

    Pruning Climbing Hydrangea
    We just bought a home that has climbing hydrangea along the back fence. It looks like it has been neglected for years. When we moved in April it had all the dead leaves and flowers from last year on it. We weren’t sure what it was so we left it alone. It has now grown over the top of the 7′ fence and out about 3-4′ into the yard. Will it hurt if we prune it way back? How far back can we prune it? I know there are other plants on either side of it that try to survive but are have a difficult time.

    HI Sharon
    Yes, you can cut it back to control the excessive growth. Now that its established it will grow back quickly. You can cut it back by 1/3-1/2. Remember. the more you cut it back the less flowers you will have.
    The best time to prune it is after it is done blooming.

  • jane

    Will climbing hydrangea grow to cover a creosote treated wood and metal retaining wall?

    HI Jane
    The aerial roots of climbing hydrangea should be able to attach and climb on wood and the retaining wall.

  • Monika R. Cleveland

    I planted a climbing hydrangea approximately 3 years ago next to our pergola on the west side of our home. We noticed some good growth last year until we pulled it back to stain the pergola – we will not do that agajn! However, toward the end of the summer – I noticed that many of the leaves were turning brown and falling off. Could it be diseased? I keep waiting for the growth spurt to begin and hear it is the “cadillac” of vines. Should I wait it out, try some compost, or move the plant to a better location?

    Hi Monika
    I would wait till spring before doing anything. Your climbing hydrangea may have shed some of its leaves in the fall although fall color is yellow. Pulling the vines back may have caused the problem. Wait it out and see what the plant does this spring. Feed it lightly in spring with 5-10-10 or compost around the plant. I don’t recommend moving the plant unless it’s necessary. Moving it will set the plant back dramatically.
    Another thought is that they don’t like afternoon sun (Western exposure) without any shade-especially in warmer climates. Too much sun can “scorch” the leaves turning them brown which may become a problem in the future as the vine grows larger.

  • Catherine

    April 3, 2009
    I planted my climbing hydrangea 5 years ago. It is located on the South side of our house and looks beautiful every year except no flowers. I prune it a little during the summer and cut it back a lot in the Fall. Am I pruning it to much that prevents it from flowering?

    HI Catherine
    Yes, excessive pruning of your climbing hydrangea will delay blooming. It can take 6-10 yrs to start blooming.

  • Christine Wryn

    I have a bug of some kind that is eating the leaves on my climbing hydrangea and would like to know what it is and what to use to get rid of them. I don’t see any bugs on the leaves or stems. Thanks

    HI Christine,
    It’s difficult to determine what is eating your climbing hydrangea. In order to treat it you need to determine what kind of insect is causing the problem. I recommend that you examine the vine closely for insects and take a leaf to a local extension office .

  • Dottie

    Climbing on metal surface
    I have a climbing hydrangea that is 3 or 4 years old. Got it at a plant sale. It is very healthy and I have to climb on a metal arbor. It has not grown more than 18 inch high. Does it have to be on a wooden structure in order to climb. I do not want to put it on my house or other buildings.
    Please advise.
    Thanks,
    Dottie

    The aerial roots on climbing hydrangea need something rough to cling to. A metal surface is too smooth. You can try weave in some type of rough textured wood or lath into your arbor for the vine to cling to.

  • We have a climbing hydrangia that is seven years old – and has never bloomed. We were told to cut it way back at the end of each season. Its on the north side of the house and we were considering digging it up and planting it on the south – where it would get sun. Is that wise??

    Hi Joanne
    Climbing hydrangeas are slow to bloom. It can take 8-10 years to start blooming. Not enough sun could be the cause of no flowers so planting it in more sun may help although southern exposure may be too much sun. Dappled shade from a tree would help. Before moving it, cut it back to make it more manageable. This should be done in spring before it starts to grow vigorously. Pruning the vine is usually done after bloom. Be sure that the plant gets plenty of water in summer. If you are in the southern part of the country climbing hydrangia will require more shade and consistant moisture during the hot summer.

  • Will moving the climbing hydrangia “kill” it at this age of 7 years?

    Hi Joanne
    Moving it shouldn’t kill the 7 year old plant but it will set it back perhaps for a year or two (meaning no flowers). Try to get as much of the rootball as possible. It’s best to transplant when the plant is dormant-late winter/early spring.

  • Laura Providenti

    I am considering a climbing hydrangea for a difficult shady spot that receives morning sun, but I’m worried about the roots damaging the brick wall of the house. Can you talk a bit about the effect the climbing hydrangea has upon brick walls?

    Hi Laura
    Climbing hydrangea is a vigorous climber, it will develop tenacious aerial roots that “cement” themselves to brick which can be a problem when removing the vine. The residue left by the aerial roots is difficult to remove.

  • Jacqui O'Rourke

    Climb up a tree
    I have a climbing hydrangea waiting to be planted. I have lots of new trellis to fill but also have a cherry tree in one corner and am wondering whether it would be a good idea to train the hydrangea up the cherry tree? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks

    Hi Jacqui
    Climbing hydrangea should not harm your cherry tree, provided it is large enough to support the vine when it gets older. Because it attaches itself with root-like tendrils, it will not choke the tree. It will climb up the tree nicely. The vine may compete with the tree for nutrients and moisture in the soil.

  • anne henry

    recently purchased climbing hydrangea, although concerned at the plants appearance at time of purchase I bought anyway. Plant seems very “leggy” with yellowing leaves, and numerous flowers (which I assume is good). What can I do to revive or care for this sad looking plant??
    Thank you

    Hi Anne
    Leggy and yellowing leaves indicate not enough light and perhaps lacking nutirents/insects/watering. Plantthe climbing hydrangea in well-drained soil, maintain even moisture (2″ mulch around the plant). Once you see new growth give it 1/2 dose of fertilizer- check fertilizer rates on the package. Less is more in young plants. Don’t feed after Aug.1.

  • Karla (Edmonds, WA)

    I am in the process of removing a Wisteria that has, unfortunately, damaged my front porch to the point of needing replacement. It has grown onto the roof of my two-story home, and up into the eaves and siding, damaging the boards. Two beautiful rose vines, one pink, one red, have grown up through it, creating a beautiful display. I am trying to save the roses as I remove the Wisteria.

    I purchased a Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea Anomala Petiolaris) that I wanted to plant in place of the Wisteria. I understand, from my research and reading the posts here, that the Climbing Hydrangea will attach to the wood siding of my home.

    My First Question—will it have the same tendencies as the Wisteria, namely, to develop thick, woody stems that will creep under my siding, lifting and destroying the structure, or will it have a less “invasive” vine that “sticks” just to the outside of the wood.

    My Second Question—Would it be wiser to construct a wood trellis a foot away from the house upon which the Climbing Hydrangea could grow? Thank you for your time and help.–K

    Hi Karla
    Climbing hydrangea attaches itself with aereal roots to cement themselves to the surface. It should be less invasive but will leave marks on the siding should you decide to remove it. It will develop a thick stem with cinnamon exfoliating bark that it is famous for. You will have to provide a sturdy support for the vine.
    I think the woody trellis is a good idea. Make sure it is high enough. as they mature, can get up to 70 ft tall.

  • Janet McCaffrey

    I planted several climbing hydrangeas on a 6 ft high wooden fence and they have spread quite a bit and I’m now concerned about their weight on the fence. Any easy way of removing them?

    Hi Janet
    If you want to remove a whole vine, cut it at the soil line and that will kill the vine. You can also cut back the vine by 1/3 to alleviate the weight problem.

  • Cheryl

    You had mentioned that a climbing hydrangea doesn’t do well on a chain link fence. That’s all I have and just planted my hydrangea. Will I be able to train it along the fence as it matures?

  • Laurie

    Remove root markings
    I bought my house two years ago and it had a beautiful climbing hydrangia on one portion of the front of the house. It started growing too tall reaching the roof line so I had to cut off about 3 feet of the plant to keep in under control. The problem is I am now left with the aerial roots on the siding and the brick. Are there any tricks to getting the root marks off of the house?

    Hi Laurie
    The root residue is very difficult to remove. That is the drawback of growing certain vines on brick buildings. You can try a wire brush, scraper, or power wash it off. It may be a slow, painstaking process. Good luck.

  • Dan

    Will the vines live on treated lumber?

    Good question. I don’t know. Maybe someone out there has had experience with this. I don’t think it will affect the vine.
    The vine should climb very well on the treated lumber.

  • Toronto

    I recently planted 2 Japanese climbing hydrangeas and in preparation for the upcoming snowy winter, I wanted to know how I winterize it to protect it from the extreme cold and snow. Does anyone know?

    HI
    I’m presuming that you are referring to a climbing hydrangea H. anomola (petiolaris). They are hardy in temperatures to -20 F. I’m not sure how cold it gets in Toronto. You may not have to do anything to winterize it but give it 2-3 inches of mulch around the roots.

  • mark

    I am about to plany a climbing hydrangea next to our shed. I attached a trellis to the shed. My question is about the roots of the climbing hydrangea. My question is about their roots. I was only able to dig about a foot and a half before hitting a a lot of big rocks which so far I have been able unable to remove. I am thinking of raising the level by adding about a foot of dirt, which would give them about 2 1/2 feet of dirt. How deep do the roots of the climbing hydrangea need to go? if they encounter some rocks will they adapt and be able to go around them underground?
    Thanks

    HI Mark
    I’m not sure how deep climbing hydrangea roots go but 2-2/2 ft. should be plenty. The hole should be twice the size of the pot and as deep as the pot.Water in well and place 2-3 inches around the plant to retain even moisture. The roots can adapt and go around some obstacles like rocks.

  • Nancy

    Rust on hydrangea vine
    In the early spring, I planted two healthy climbing hydrangia on a metal arbor. They were doing really well until about a month ago. The leaves started to get rusty looking spots on the bottom and are now turning yellow and beginning to fall off. There is still new growth appearing. I am worred that something may be killing my plants. What could be causing this?

    Hi Nancy
    There is a rust caused by a fungus that attacks hydrangea close to the end of the growing season. It may be weather related and rarely kills the plants. Be sure to water your plants before winter so tht they are well established before the soil freezes. As long as there are healthy buds on your vine, it should be ok.

  • Leandra

    Fall leaf drop and pruning
    Hello, I have 3 very healthy climbing Hydrangia, and they are now, at least 6 years old. They all bloombed well this summer. Now after a good frost, in the 20F’s the other night, all three look like they are dying back. Do they do this in the winter? And should I cut back, or leave alone? They have already been pruned a little after flowering? I don’t want to loose these plants, so I will wait to hear from you!!! Thank you so much!

    Hi Leandra
    It is normal for Hydrangea will drop their leaves once exposed to freezing temperatures. When the vine is old enough, you will see the beautiful exfoliating bark that climbing hydrangea is famous for. They are going dormant but should return next spring when the weather warms up.
    You don’t need to prune it, unless your climbing hydrangea is out of control. Trimming after bloom is a great way to shape the vine. Any additional pruning can be done in mid-winter when the vine is dormant.

Leave a Reply

 

 

 

You can use these HTML tags

<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>