Climbing Hydrangea
Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris known as Climbing Hydrangea is considered the best of vines. This attractive climber grows a cinnamon exfoliating bark with deep glossy green foliage. It produces a waterfall of fragrant clusters of white flowers 6-10 inches wide attached to a 1 inch stalk making it a stunning vine when in bloom.
Plant in rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun or shade. A North or East side of a building is preferred. In hotter climates provide more shade and moisture. Be sure to provide a sturdy structure for it to climb on.
Climbing hydrangea will be slow to establish the first year; the fibrous roots take time to recover from transplanting. During this time maintain even moisture and because of minimal growth feed it very little. Do not prune in the juvenile stage. Once established, it will take off and eventually grow 50-70 ft high and 30-40 ft wide. This vigorous climber will develop tenacious aerial roots that “cement” themselves to bark, brick, wood, vinyl siding which can be a problem when removing the vine. The residue left by the aerial roots is difficult to remove. Avoid planting against a Maple tree as it will compete for moisture.
Blooming
When the vine reaches adult stage it will grow multi branched stems that produce flattened clusters of white flowers that change to light green with age. The vine blooms on old wood and can take 6-10 years to start blooming. It blooms in May thru July.
The vine can be pruned after flowering.
Propagation: Take cuttings in early spring when shoots are green and soft.
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Climbing Hydrangea: can climbing hydrangea’s be grown on cyclone fencing, thankyou, rick
Comment by rick schulte — 4/28/2008 @ 8:35 am
I have a climbing Hydrangea planted four years ago. Bloomed 2nd year deer ate all blooms has not bloomed since. It is healthy and in partly shaded area, has not been given any fertilizer. Any suggestions of what we need to do to get it to bloom?
Thanks,
Angela rice
Comment by Angela Rice — 6/7/2008 @ 7:23 am
Hi:
I planted two climbing hydrangea vines this spring. They are planted on a north facing fence and get some morning sun. They seem to be doing well except that on one of them the leaves are turning red. What could be the cause of this?
Thank you
Ann
Comment by Ann Martinez — 6/15/2008 @ 8:02 am
my climbing hydrangea was growing up a brick wall. someone or something pulled it away from the wall. are there any types of clips i can use to reposition it until new rootlets take hold?
Comment by dianne galleshaw — 6/25/2008 @ 10:52 am
I just bought a house that has a beautiful climbing hydrangea along an entire side of the house. I suspect it is 10-20 years old but all of the growth comes from 2 stems. This results in some spotty growth near the top of the wall in a few areas. I am going to try your tip with using picture support clips.
Would there be any harm in trying to take some cuttings and add them to the wall, or do these plants like that kind of crowding? Also, are soft wood cuttings the best for propagation or will the plant make viable seeds?
Comment by Matty — 7/5/2008 @ 9:59 am
We bought what was labeled a spreading hydrangea. It is low and spreading very slowly along a fence. We planted it 3 years ago. How do care for it? Should we dead head it and if so when? Should we prune branches or old leaves and if so when?
Comment by John Roberts — 7/10/2008 @ 2:28 pm
gary anderson ( garyandersn@aol.com
The tag on my plant says hydrangia petiolaris. It’s been in 2 years, the vines are healthly looking, bright green, but nothing that looks like a flower or bloom. I’m in partial shade, but vines look great as well as leaves. Where are my flowers? I did not trim it back last year…Thanks..can you help me? I’m in upstate new york, sidney to be exact.
Comment by Gary Anderson — 7/10/2008 @ 2:29 pm