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Grow Hosta

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HOSTA
Hosta, also known as Plantain lily is a popular shade plant that is grown primarily for its attractive foliage. Hardy in UDSA zones 3-9, this frost-hardy perennial is ideal for border plantings, large containers, and ground covers in shady areas. They also make great companion plants for early blooming bulbs because they hide the dying foliage.
Numerous cultivars range in all sizes from 6 inch tiny dwarfs to large cluster 2½ ft tall. The leaves can be dark or bright green, gold, yellow, blue, smooth, puckered or variegated and can grow up to 2½ ft long and wide.

hosta platanginea

Care: Once established, hostas require little care. Plant them at the same soil level as grown in the container, in rich, moist, well drained organic soil. They prefer partial shade to shade (morning sun and afternoon shade) and need protection from the hot summer sun. The bluer hostas need more shade to retain a true blue color conversely; the yellow and white leaved variety require more sun to maintain a brighter color.
Water: Give them plenty of water; they require at least 1 inch of water per week and more if grown in sandy soil. The larger leaved variety may also need more water. It’s best to water early in the day.
Feed: Fertilize in spring to mid summer at 6 week intervals (April, mid-May and July) with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer. Stop feeding after July to allow the plant to harden for the winter.
Hostas bloom in midsummer on tall spikes of lavender, blue, or white tubular flowers that rise above the leaves. Both leaves and flowers can be used in floral design. When finished blooming, remove the dead stalks. Hosta platanginea (Fragrant Plantain lily) is the only hybrid that produces white fragrant flowers that smell like tuberose.
Propagation: It takes 4-8 years for a hosta to reach full size. Propagate by dividing crowded clumps in the spring when new shoots appear, in the fall after the leaves die back or in August, 30 days before the first frost. They can also be started from seed but take 2-3 years before they reach blooming size and will not come true (except H. ventricosa).

Troubleshooting
Slugs and snails cause large holes in the leaves
Deer will eat the leaves down to the stem; rabbits will eat new emerging shoots.
Scorched leaves- plant needs more shade
Crown rot-outer leaves wilted and yellowed
Wilted and browning leaf tips-not enough water

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8 Comments on Grow Hosta»

  1. When diving my Hosta and transplanting portions of it….I have transplanted an “eye” with roots and 2 with just a small root, seems to be doing fine except the ones with the small root. “Small root” meaning only one root, has witled, the others had a large root system, and seem to be doing very well…. Now, will the ones with the one root come back next year if they don’t develop a root system like the others had when transplanted? What is a good way to determine where to divide a plant that has lots of roots? Sorry to bug about the hosta but this is my first attempt at dividing a plant.

    When dividing hostas you want to get a good clump, 3 eyes is a good size which will give you a substantial root system. You can either remove a section from the perimeter without digging up the plant or you can dig up the whole plant and separate multi-shoot clusters(3 or more), making sure you include enough healthy roots and remove any dead, diseased roots. Use a sharp knife or spade to separate the divisions and replant immediately. Pamper (water)your transplants until they are established. Make sure that your hosta is large enough to divide. Although they can be divided early, ideally, the plant should be at least 3-4 years old.
    Your wilted one root will most likely die and not come back next year. /blockquote>.

    Comment by JOan — 3/19/2007 @ 1:50 pm

  2. Kimberly
    Is it too early to divide hostas?

    You can divide hostas in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked and even before the ‘eyes’ on your hosta have opened. Best time is in the spring or late fall.

    Comment by Kimberly — 3/19/2007 @ 1:51 pm

  3. Hi I have a light problem. I have been searching for a very low lite plant or plants that can be planted inside a building in a court yard that is exposes to outside temperatures. The building surrounds the court yard and the only light comes from the top of the building (12 stories). There is a roof so no direct light. Can you suggest anything that can survive cold and heat and low light. Ga area. Thank you.

    Here are some shade plants that you might consider: Hosta (plantain lily), zone 3-9; there’s a large selection to pick from. Wild ginger (Asarum Europaeum), Pachysandra terminalis, Sweet woodruff (Asperula), lily of the valley(Convallaria), Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica), primrose, ferns, forget-me-not and ivy . These are low growing perennnials for shady gardens. You can add some annuals for color such as coleus, begonia and impatients, depending on how much light filters in. You might also consider a rock garden and a water feature to accentuate the space.

    Comment by David — 3/19/2007 @ 2:06 pm

  4. Name: Dena Harbert

    Here in Elkview, WV (southwestern WV) the deer will not eat Marigolds so I plant them around my Hostas which they love.

    Comment by Deena — 3/19/2007 @ 2:08 pm

  5. > Kris, I live in zone 6 and want to plant ice crop which is approved for planting in zone 7-9. One year it survived over winter and was awesome for the summer but lost it the following year. I just love this plant. Is there a way of protecting it for winter? Or should I dig it up in fall and bring it inside? I plan to use large pots buried in ground for summer and then lifting pot in fall. Should I trim off the growth in fall or leave it alone. This is a nice spreading ground cover plant. Thanks in advance. George

    I can think of two ways to approach this situation. First, you can leave the ice plant in the ground and heavily mulch it , over the winter,hoping we will not have a harsh, cold winter. Second, you can dig up the pot and store it in an unheated garage or shed where temperatures stay between 32-40 degrees. Make sure the soil does not dry out completely. Also wrap the outside of the pot with “bubble wrap” to maintain an even temperature during storage. Trim the plant in the spring before new growth sets in.

    Comment by George — 3/23/2007 @ 9:51 am

  6. Something is eating my hosta plants. It has chewed up holes and slimy trails on the leaves. Please help!

    Sounds like you may have a slug problem. Slugs & snails love hosta.Click here for some suggestions to control slugs.

    Comment by Peter — 3/23/2007 @ 10:16 am

  7. What should you do when your hostas have been damaged by a late frost?

    Unfortunately, there is not much you can do. The extent of the damage will depend on how far along your hostas were. If they are in the “eye” stage then you will have less signs of leaf browning than when fully opened. It is early in the season for your hosta to produce new leaves. Depending on how unsightly you damaged leaves are, you may want to trim them at a later date. Be sure to give it extra care this season, water and fertilize to help promote new growth.

    Comment by Joyce Dennis — 4/11/2007 @ 4:45 pm

  8. good information!

    Comment by Kate B. — 10/2/2007 @ 4:03 pm

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