Impatiens care
Growing Impatiens
From the time they were discovered in East Africa, impatients have become one of the largest selling annual bedding plant. After 40 years of breeding, Impatients have come a long way with new varieties introducing a rainbow of colors (except blue), single and double flowers and assorted heights. A favorite shade plant, it provides a non-stop floriferous splash of color to any low light area all season long until a killing frost will finally put it to rest.
Impatiens are one of the easier plants to grow. Given the right conditions, they will provide mounds of brightly colored flowers 1-2 ft. tall from spring to fall. They are great in borders, containers, window boxes and hanging baskets.
Care: Primarily considered a shade/ semi-shade plant, newer varieties (Viva) also tolerate sun.
Because it is a heat-loving, tropical plant, it should be planted after all danger of frost has passed or when the soil temperature is 60F.
Plant 6″ to 12″ apart in well-drained, rich organic soil in shade/semi-shade. In the North plant them in full sun and in the Southern states in morning sun. In either climate, Impatients need protection from the hot afternoon sun.
Watering: Impatients like moist but not wet soil in order to grow well. Be sure they get 1″ of water every week and water more often in the heat of summer and if in full sun. If allowed to dry out they will wilt dramatically and sulk dropping its leaves and flowers. Wilting also causes stress and drains energy making them more susceptible to insect or disease damage.
When planting, feed with a slow-release fertilizer or monthly with a balanced fertilizer. Feed more often when container grown or if plants are competing for nutrients such as growning under a tree. Too much fertilizer can cause leggy plants and reduced flowering.
If your Impatients are tall and leggy by mid summer pinch them back to 6 inches and they should regrow as bushier plants.
Propagation: Softwood cutting taken in late winter, early spring. Seeds-sow indoors 10-12 wks before last frost date. Seeds need light and temperatures of 70-75F to germinate cover with plastic to provide humidity. Germination takes 15-20 days.
Troubleshooting:
Root rot- over-watering, poor drainage
INSV Impatiens necrotic spot virus-leaf & stem ring spots that are yellow, white, gray or brown/black.
TSWV Tomato spotted wilt virus – ring spots on foliage transmitted by thrips
Fungal leaf spots-plant stress
Spider mites, thrips, mealybugs and aphids.
- Cosmos Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) A native of Mexico, also called Mexican Aster, Cosmos...
- Gardenia care The glossy dark green leaves and fragrant milky white flowers of the...
- Pansy/viola care PANSY viola x wittrockiana One of my favorite flowers is the pansy....
- Brugmansia care Brugmansia, Angel Trumpet is a large shrub or small tree with large,...
- How to choose the best annuals The secret to picking out annuals for bigger and better blooms. The...
my impatiens leaves are turning yellow and some have little or no flowers, what am i doing wrong and what should i know
I live in southern CA and have always had great luck with growing impatiens. This year although I have replanted several times I am continually losing all the leaves on my plants. The only difference I am aware of in this area is a new resident lizard. Is it possible he is eating my plants? If so what can I plant in a partially sunny southern facing spot where I want lots of color that my lizard won’t like to dine on? Thanks
I live in New England (MASS) and i have a criitter eating my impatients. It seems like a very organized eating pattern and some are actually ripped out of the ground. At first I thought Deer but they havent eaten the other more desireable shrubs and plants that deer would be more apt to eat what could it be??
I have a beautiful impatiens plant that I would like to keep over the winter for next year. Is this possible? I live in Missouri.
thx for the tips on how to take care of my impatints! i really needed it! =) =P
My impatiens seem to be loosing their color. They were so vibrant when I bought them at the store but now they’re planted it’s like the pink is draining out leaving a pale pink/white petal. I’ve noticed some of my other flowers doing the same. It has only been a week since planting and I used Osmocote fertilizer when planting + new Miracle Grow potting soil. Never had this issue in this location for the past 3 years. Help!
Are they in the same location? Have you had a lot of rain?
I have a double impatien plant which I kept over the winter and probagated to make about 8 new plants did very well and the new plants looked healthy and nice. I then put them outside for the summer with new potting soil. The potting soil, (actually I used two different potting soils on two different occasions)was supposed to be organic. Anyway, now the leaves are small and slightly curly and there are not new buds on the stems. It is this way with all the plants even though I used different potting soil. Do you have and answer for this?
Thanks for info on impatiens. I have a pot full that are very tall and leggy. You say they can be pinched back. Excatly what does that mean? CanI merely snip them off at 6 inches or so? Or is there a point on the stem that will be best? The plant seems otherwise fairly healthy. Just not too pretty any more. I appreciate the qweb help.–Janet
My impatients are not blooming as they usually do. Too much fertilizer or too much water?
I, too, have been having trouble with my impatiens. I think my fertilizer had too much nitrogen. Can I reverse the nitrogen content somehow so they will continue to bloom?
What can i do if our impatiens in hanging baskets are getting too much water from too much rain here in massachusetts. We have already lost 4 baskets .
I live in downtown Richmond, VA and traditionally have had wonderful blooming & vibrant impatiens which seemed to be the case for this year as well. I decided to plant some Tomato plants in pots along side my impatiens and also started off well, however about a month ago my tomatoes seem to have caught some sort of mold / disease ( believe it is “Gray Mold” …. or so I have read and for which I was told nothing could be done?). Now it seems that my impatiens have contracted some sort of fungi / mold where the leaves and blooms are turning white, somewhat botchie? Is this indeed something from my Tomatoes? Is there anything that can be done? I’ve never had this problem in years past?? Never have had tomatoes in past years either.
Thanks for your advice and expertise.
I share the same predicament with one of your reader here. My impatiens are losing their color and the buds doesnt bloom. They opened up a little and then died off. I think didnt overwater them nor did I over-fertilise them. Need your expertise here. Thanks !
Leggy and spindly plants
hi dear the leaves of my impatiens become long and slim what can i do.