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Mandevilla

Mandevilla tips and care

Mandevilla belongs to a large family that also includes plants that were formerly known as Dipladenia. It was named after a British diplomat/gardener Henry Mandeville. This exotic plant bears trumpet shaped flowers shades of pink, yellow and white (some fragrant) on twining vines with puckered, oval leaves.

mandevilla

This tropical plant is hardy (depending on cultivars) in zones 9-11 and therefore is for the most part of the U.S. treated as a houseplant. It is grown outdoors for the summer and in cold weather taken indoors to endure the winter.

Care
Outdoors: Mandevilla is cold sensitive and can be taken outdoors when the danger of frost has passed and overnight temperatures reach over 50ºF. It likes full sun to part shade in the summer and a deep rich, well-drained soil. It will also need a trellis to support its long trailing vines. Provide plenty of water during the hot days of summer. To keep a healthy blooming plant, feed it every other week with a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) in the spring and summer. In order to maintain the tangled growth during the season, pinch off new shoot tips which will produce a bushier plant. Trimming will not reduce flowering as it blooms on new growth. Use the cuttings to make new plants.

Propagation
It can be started from seed at temperatures of 70-80ºF. A faster way is to take cuttings in the spring and summer which will easily root and develop new plants.

Watch out for mealybugs, scales, whitefllies and red spider mites.

Winterover mandevilla

  1. Winterize Mandevilla I currently have a beautiful Mandevilla and would like to preserve it...
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August 24th, 2005 | Tags: , | Category: Garden Review, Mandevilla | 72 comments
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72 comments to Mandevilla

  • Christa
    November 14th, 2005 at 1:37 pm · Reply

    Whitefly
    What are the white, flying bugs that look kind of like aphids? Are they aphids and how do I get rid of them? Also, what kind of damage do they do to Mandevillas? Thank you, Christa

    If they fly when the plant is disturbed then it sounds like white fly. They can be difficult to control. Use insecticidal soap spray and be sure to spray the underside of the leaves as that’s where they lay their eggs. To control spray every 5-7 days for about 2 weeks. It should take care of the adults and hatching eggs. If insecticidal soap doesn’t do the job try a pyrethroid type insecticide and follow manufacturers direction as to its use.

  • Dana
    November 23rd, 2005 at 8:47 am · Reply

    Information regarding rooting of mandevilla cuttings

    Stem cutting from mandevilla can be taken in the spring. Choose side shoots 2-3 inches long and insert in sandy peat soil. Keep cutting moist(not too wet)and supply extra humidity with a plastic bag or propagating case until roots form then plant in 3″ pots. Pinch back new growth to promote side shoots and bushier plants.

  • jean m
    February 1st, 2006 at 9:38 am · Reply

    I did not cut back the plant when I brought in for winter. Now getting new tbut have white residue & sticky. Help! Do I cut back Now?
    Also have used inecticidal soap & washed leaves with alcohol

    You may have mealybugs-white cottony “stuff” in leaf axils that also secrete honeydew (the sticky stuff). You can cut your mandevilla back as it will help control the insect. Continue your treatment of alcohol dip and insecticidal soap for at least 3 weeks even if you don’t see the insect. For more info

  • Diane Alcorn
    March 12th, 2006 at 4:47 pm · Reply

    Regarding the Mandevilla - I live in Dana Point, California right on the coast. It’s temperate here and never drops below 50 degrees. Still, my plant leaves are getting sparse and yellow. What should I do?

    Some of the reason for yellowing leaves & leaf drop is the possibility of winter dormancy-the cooler outdoor temperatures,shorter days will stop growth causing seasonal shedding. By this time of year it should show signs of new growth. Drought stress and underfertilization can also cause yellowing/leaf drop. Also check for insects and webbing on the plant, which is a sign a spider mites infestation. At this point I would trim back the plant, wait for signs of new green growth and then fertilize.

  • dawn
    April 24th, 2006 at 2:24 pm · Reply

    I know this is going to strike you as funny but my husband has a goat that keeps eating the ends of my mandevilla vine. what can I do to stop this? (short of shooting the goat)

    I read about a new Australian research that produced a product from tiger feces which is effective on wild goats, if you can stand the smell. I don’t know if the product is out on the market yet. My suggestion would be to try a product called Liquid fence-it seems to work for deer and other small animals. It also has an unpleasant smell. You can also try a hot spray mix: use 2-3 cloves garlic, 3-4 hot red peppers (Habaneras, serrano) grind up in a blender and mix in a gallon of water along with a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Spray on the tips and see if the goat stays away. Goats seem to eat everything so they just might like the spicy mix.

  • Karen H
    May 25th, 2006 at 3:19 pm · Reply

    I have a new arbor and would love to plant mandevilla on either side. Due to limited space, I am wondering if I can plant them in a ‘window box’ container which is about 4″ deep alongside each side of the arbor. Suggestions?

    A 4 inch depth may not be deep enough to accomidate the root system. I would suggest at least 8-12 inches deep. Planting along the arbor is a great idea gives them room to vine.

  • P. Ward
    May 31st, 2006 at 8:31 am · Reply

    My Mandavilla’s vine is growing well, but the mature leaves on the plant are browning and dying from the leave’s vein outward to the leave’s edges. I wouldn’t call it “yellowing” as I’ve seen in over-watering of other plants, but a dry, dying brown leaf. Is this not enough water? The plant is planted in the ground in a good sunny spot. I don’t want to lose my new Mandevilla - it’s beautiful!

    The mature leaves that are browning can be going through an aging process and dying back. As long as the exterior new foliage is growing, I don’t think there is anything to worry about.

  • ann connor
    June 13th, 2006 at 4:49 am · Reply

    My mandevilla has tiny ants all over the leaves and the blooms and also yellow stuff, kind of looks like very tiny eggs.

    It may be possible that they are aphids instead of eggs. Ants are attracted to aphids because of the honeydew they secrete.

  • Barbara
    August 20th, 2006 at 8:37 am · Reply

    Yellow leaves
    My mandevillahas lots of yellow leaves on the lower mature vines. It is outside in partial shade and gets all the Florida thunderstorms…sun after 2 pm! This began immediately after purchase and repotting..It is growing great but leaf loss is increasing..

    Barring insect infestation, yellowing older leaves can be a respose to stress, such as overwatering, lack of fertilizer(nitrogen) or the plant is just shedding some of its old leaves. In your case, my guess is that the plant is responding to the new environment and transplant shock. The older yellowing leaves can also indicate lack of nitrogen. At this point, I would give the plant time to readjust to the new environment. Give it a light dose(1/2 ) of fertilizer (8-12-12 or even a 10-10-10) to give it a boost. You can fertilize lightly every two weeks until mid- Sept to envigorate your plant before winter. Be sure that the soil is well drained, not water logged.

  • Sherry
    August 21st, 2006 at 10:32 pm · Reply

    I also have mandevillas that are turning brown and dying. I have already lost two this summer and two more that are dying. The leaves turn brown mostly on the tips and outer edges first then move to the whole leaf. Some of the flower buds also turn brown. They also have long shoots with no leaves or flowers. They have done well in past years.

    If the weather has been hot in your area brown edges on the leaves can be caused by hot,dry air, or sun scorch. In additon browning leaves can be an indicator of underwatering especially if the mandevillas are growing in a container. Hot weather will require watering for as much 3 times a week to to keep the plant from drying out . Be sure to water enough and let the water drain out-don’t allow your plant to sit in water or you will have other problems (root rot). You may also want to give it a dose of fertilizer (8-12-12) to boost it up for the upcoming winter. Brown leaves can also be pest or disease related.

    Tonya
    Never had a problem with my mandevilla before but we have had several days around 95F (gets afternoon sun) so I increased my watering to everyday instead of every other and now the unopened buds are falling off. Is it too much heat/sun or too much water?

    It’s suffering from too much heat. The increased watering in hot weather is fine as long as it drains well and the pot is not sitting in water. If your mandevilla is in a container, move it to a shaded spot until the heat subsides.

  • Cheryl
    August 24th, 2006 at 6:49 pm · Reply

    Repotting mandevilla
    I just received a mandevilla and when do you re pot and what size pot to use. The pot that it came in is small and it looks root bound

    The general rule is to replant to a pot that is 1-2 inches larger. If the roots are encircled , unwind the roots, trim away any dead roots and repot. If you live in a cooler climate you will have to bring it in for the winter.

  • A.E.Bentley
    October 12th, 2006 at 2:20 am · Reply

    I am trying to find some photos of a Mandevilla. We have a vine with large red flowers and have been told it is a Mandevilla but the only info I can find tells me the Mandevilla is pink or white. Please help

    There is a cultivar of Mandevilla sanderi ( syn. Dipladenia sanderi ) called Scarlet Pimpernel that produces red flowers. The foliage is a smooth, glossy green color.

  • Paul Gardner
    February 18th, 2007 at 5:52 pm · Reply

    speed up flowering
    I have a question on flowering of the mandevilla. This is my third year with the plant, I have done everything that you suggested when it comes to winter storage and fertilizing. I live in Ontario, Canada and wanted to know if there is any way to speed up the flowering. I know the flowers come from the heat. It seems like my flowers really on come in August-September I was wondering is there any way to get flowering going earlier… say late June?
    Thanks Paul

    Because Mandevillas bloom on new growth, they need to put on good healthy growth early in the season in order to initiate blooming. Janet Carson Extension adviser suggests that some Mandevilla are slow to start when they are rootbound from last years growth. You may need to replant it into a larger container or at least replace half of the existing soil and trim back the roots. In addition, cut back the plant by 1/3-1/2 in Feb/March which will stimulate new healthy growth fit for blooming. Keep in mind weak, stindly growth will produce less flowers. Provide full sun and fertilze like you have been. Hopefully, this will jumpstart to an earlier bloom.

  • Renee Barry
    April 26th, 2007 at 2:11 pm · Reply

    Epsom salt
    I had inquired about a beautiful Mandevillea and was told that Epson salt was scratched in the soil that made it look so pretty. I was wondering if you heard anything about this trick?

    The use of epsom salt is an old time trick used on many blooming plants (roses). It contains magnesium and sulfur, two micronutrients essential for flowering plants. Plants that lack magnesium will develop curling, yellow leaves with green veins and stunted growth and sulfur lowers the soil ph. If your soil is lacking these elements then it can be of some use but if you fertilize you plants with a well balanced fertilizer that includes these micronutrients then chances are the plant is getting what it needs. According to Epsom salt council.org it “helps seeds germinate , makes plants grow bushier, produces more flowers, increases chlorophyll production and improves phosphorus and nitrogen uptake .” You might want to try it and see if it makes a difference.

  • Joel Studebkaer
    July 20th, 2007 at 5:30 pm · Reply

    We received a mandevilla last summer, put it in the ground at our NJ home, and watched it bloom prolifically. We brought it inside in the fall, and it sent up new shoots about February. After the last frost, we moved it to the same outdoor spot it was in last year. Though it has grown well since then, it hasn’t bloomed. Please advise. JS

    Have you been fertilizing the plant? During the growing season you should feed it with a 10-20-10 (high phosphorous)fertilizer every two weeks. If it gets too much nitrogen (1st #) then it will produce lots of leaves and no flowers.

    Jeanette Johnson
    My mandevilla appears to be growing healthy and happy. I have it in a sunny location, out doors. I am feeding it a liquid feed three times per week, Miracle Grow All Purpose 24-8-16. I am getting no flowers. How come?

    You are feeding it too much nitrogen (first #) therefore you are getting leaves and no flowers. Try a bloom boost or a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) every two weeks.

  • Sandra
    July 21st, 2007 at 2:45 pm · Reply

    Propagate mandevilla
    I have heard you can pick off part of the Mandavilla and start new ones but I have tried this and in a day or two they are dead. What am I doing wrong? I have about 20 planted on my retaining wall and they are beautiful growing down the wall but I have to buy new ones every year as all do not come back after winter. It is too hard digging them up out of the wall to take them inside. I would like to start new ones from the existing ones to fill in the spaces.

    The best time to propagate mandevilla is in the spring but cuttings can also be taken in summer/fall. Take 2-3 ” tip or side shoot cuttings that have firm growth(not new light green growth) remove all but 2 top leaves. Dip the cuttings in rooting hormone and place in sandy peat soil mix. Keep moist and maintain humidity by placing cuttings in a plastic bag (opening periodically to release excess moisture). Keep in shaded area, out of direct sunlight. It may take 20-70 days to root.

  • Pam
    August 4th, 2007 at 4:47 pm · Reply

    I am interested in purchasing mandevilla for my daughter who lives in Phoenix. She needs vining container plants to place in an area between her house and the cement block fence. The area doesn’t get direct sun until late afternoon, evening. Would this be a wise choice for the climate and growing area?

    As far as hardiness, mandevilla is hardy in zone 9-11, Phoenix is in zone 9 so that should be ok. Cover the plant when temperatures drop below 45 for a prolonged period. Even if a frost damages the plant, it will grow back from the roots. It needs a half day of direct sun in order to bloom.

  • Debbie
    August 9th, 2007 at 6:50 am · Reply

    I live in Portland, Maine and would like to have a Mandevilla as a house plant - keeping it indoors in a pot year round. I have a sunny southside spot in front of two windows. The plant would be placed between the windows where there is some shading due to woodwork between the windows. Will this plant bloom all year?
    Does it require any maintenance (ie cutting back) other than watering/fertilizing as it is an indoor house plant?
    thank you

    Mandevilla is a tropical plant and needs full sun, high humidity and warm temperatures to bloom and thrive. Unless you have a greenhouse to provide this environment, it will grow little and become weak ,spindly with little if any flowers. It grows great outdoors during the summer but when brought indoors for the winter, it survives waiting only to go back to the tropical climate of summer. Many housplants are tropical and they stay as green plants because their requirement for blooming hasn’t been satisfied-I believe the same will happen with a mandevilla.

  • Howard Stoneman
    August 13th, 2007 at 1:05 pm · Reply

    Mandevilla seeds
    I am trying to start Mandevilla from seed. My question is…Does the seed come from the end of the stem at the base of the bloom ? Is it a single seed or a cluster of 8 or 10 seeds? If it is 8 or 10 tiny pin head size seeds, that have a hair-like tail, do I leave the tail on when I plant the seeds. OR…Do the seeds grow separately in a stalk-like pod ?
    Thank you, Howard

    Mandevilla seeds
    come from the center of the calyx. The seed pods are around 4-6 inches long and hang in pairs in the shape of an inverted V. When the pods dry, they will turn brown and split open exposing fluffy seeds that have fluffy aerials (like dandelions) to help disperse them. With the tail on, soak the seeds for 12 hrs. then plant and cover with soil. Keep at a temperature of 65-75. Should germinate within 30 days.

    lisa cox ( hmbcox@aol.com / )
    one of our mature plants has suddenly stopped blooming. also is growing prong looking things, like long skinny fingers. it isn’t producing any new growth and some of the leaves have small brown spots. no signs of bugs. the plant next to it is very green and blooming. got any ideas? we are in the san antonio area. thanks lisa
    thanks

    Those “prong looking things” are seed pods, which doesn’t happen very easily. They will be ripe when they turn brown. Starting seeds

  • Sharon
    September 18th, 2007 at 5:13 am · Reply

    Poisonous
    Are Mandevilla plants poisonous for dogs if they chew on it.
    Thanks, Sharon

    All parts of the plant are considered poisonous when eaten. (www.ces.ncsu.edu) The sap can also be a skin irritant.

    This is the first year I’ve had my Mandevilla plant. I pruned it back and brought it inside for the winter here in New York. My question is: is the Mandevilla plant harmful to my cat? She has taken a great interest in it, and is attempting to eat the leaves.

    Although it’s not listed on Cat Fanciers’ Ass. or ASPCA as a poisonous plant, it has been mentioned several times on other sites as most parts of the plant being poisonous. It may not kill the cat but the white milky substance can make them sick.

  • Steve Riva
    January 21st, 2008 at 5:48 pm · Reply

    I live in Santa Monica, CA. I would like to plant Mandevilla on a trellis that is 15 feet high. It gets partial afternoon sun on the west side of the house. Will they survive in these conditions. How many plants need to cover fifteen feet spread? All the best. Steve

    Hi Steve
    Partial shade is great for Mandevilla. Be sure it has rich, well-drained, composted soil. They grow to 20+ feet high and depending on the variety Mandevilla spread 3-5 ft wide. You can pinch the plant to promote bushiness and get a wider spread. If all goes well, plan on spacing them 36-60 inches, therefore 3-5 plants should fill in your trellis.

  • Jen
    January 24th, 2008 at 4:23 pm · Reply

    Spider mites
    Can spider mites kill or harm my plant? How often/long should I treat the plant for? Since its indoor how often should I water? You have been very helpful. Hope you and your family have a safe and enjoyable holidays.

    Some of the symptoms for spider mite infestation are tiny dots or stippling that causes a bronze, grayish mottled look. Eventually the leaves will start to turn yellow/brown along the veins and drop. In severe infections you will also see webbing on the plant. To be sure you have spider mites, take a white sheet of paper, place it on the underside side of the leaves and tap on the leaf. If you see tiny pindots moving on the paper, then you have spider mites. Isolate your plant from any others because they spread easily. To control the infestation, spray the plant with insecticidal soap every 3-5 days for two weeks. Be sure throughly spray the plant getting the underside of the leaves. If insecticidal soap does not do the trick try Neem oil. Spider mites love the hot, dry environment that is indoors during the winter. Water your mandevilla just enough to keep it from wilting-keeping it on the dry side and mist it to increase the humidity. If the infestation gets out of control, cut back the plant, place it in a cool(garage) place and let it go dormant for the winter.

  • Donna castellani
    January 24th, 2008 at 4:56 pm · Reply

    donna
    I have brown spots on my mandevilla vine leaf especially near the veining. What is this and what do I do?

    There are two types of leaf spots diseases caused by either bacteria or fungus that can occur during the warm, wet summer months 1. Corynesporo Cassicola 2. Cereospera. The disease spreads quickly on wet foliage. Cercospora begins with small purple spots which enlarge and develop dried tan areas in the center showing an overall brown spot. The leaves turn yellow with the spots and fall off after a few days. The best control is to avoid overhead watering, sanitation - remove any infected leaves and spray with a fungicide (Zyban) . Follow label directions. This site has some photos of the diseases. http://www.velvetmandevilla.com/diseases_of_mandevilla.htm

  • June Layton
    March 10th, 2008 at 5:39 pm · Reply

    Winterover Mandevilla
    When should I be looking for new growth to begin, after wintering and cutting my plant back for the winter months? I repotted the plant and tried to spread out the roots not cutting any of them off. It is looking pretty dead to me.

    New growth depends on how well the plant wintered over. Did you keep it slightly moist during the winter month or totally dry? If not enough moisture, it will dry up and die. Mandevilla will respond to warmer temperatures. Water the plant and keep it moist,place it in a warm sunny window, if there is some life in it, you should see new buds in a few weeks.

  • Ruth Cohan
    April 10th, 2008 at 10:25 am · Reply

    Tubers
    I live in Savannah GA & did not bring my Mandevilla in for the winter. When I dug it out of its planter, it had many healthy looking tuberous roots. Can I replant the root/tubers and expect them to grow? How long to maturity?

    If the tuber is alive and is producing healthy roots it should start growing when temperatures are above 50F. Scratch the surface of the tuber to see if it’s green, that should give you an indication that it’s alive. It should send out new shoots by May or sooner and bloom this summer on the new growth.

  • Joan
    June 13th, 2008 at 10:12 am · Reply

    I purchased a hanging potted mandevilla…then discovered it will climb…can I place it near a trellis or what works best for Midwest weather?

    Since it is in a hanging pot, let it grow just like any other hanging plant. If it gets too long just trim it and it should send out side shoots making it bushier. Mandevilla that are not in a hanging pot can be grown on a trellis.

  • Peggy Allen
    July 1st, 2008 at 3:52 pm · Reply

    Is it possible to start a mandevilla from the tubers of an older plant? Just the tubers, not the whole root.

    Hi Peggy
    There some conflicting information about starting the plant from a tuber. If the tuber is green underneath the skin and has at least 2 “eyes” , it is worth a try. If you can get a bit of root (hairlike strands) with your tuber for better sucess. Keep the pot warm and moist. I repotted a small tuber from the mother plant that had a sprout on it and a few roots and now have a new plant.

  • Sheryl
    July 25th, 2008 at 2:43 pm · Reply

    Slow to bloom
    I pulled up my Mandevilla this spring thinking it was dead but discovered a sprout from one of the fleshy roots so I replanted it into a large pot. It finally recovered from the shock and has lots of leaves/vines but no blooms. It bloomed into the fall last year. Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Sheryl (south Louisiana)

    Hi Sheryl
    Since your mandevilla is off to a slow start and needs to put on a few feet of growth before it starts to initiate bloom. You don’t mention fertilizer- a 10-20-10 would help flowering. Hopefully, it will start to bloom soon.

  • joe
    August 17th, 2008 at 8:16 am · Reply

    Pruning mandevilla
    Where can i find a video of Mandevilla being prunned? This is the first time I have had a mandevilla plant and I’m not sure how much to cut off.
    Thanks

    Hi Joe
    I can’t find a video of Mandevilla prunning. They should be pruned right after bloom. Because they bloom on last year’s growth, you want to leave some current season’s growth so that they bloom next year. Is this plant wintering outdoors or indoors?

  • SUE B
    September 4th, 2008 at 8:26 am · Reply

    I have a pot of Mandevillas that have bloomed. My question is does the Mandevilla come with the trumpet type flower as seen on most sites and also a double or rose type bloom? Mine has both on the same plant. The double one almost looks like a carnation with large petals around it. Is this normal?

    Hi Sue
    It may be that you have both single and double types planted in one pot. There are new cultivars such as Tango Twirl or Rita Marie Green that produce double rose-like flowers.

  • Don Marshall
    September 27th, 2008 at 9:11 am · Reply

    Winterize Mandevilla
    I see many posts about bringing inside but my plants are far too large. I live in the SF Bay Area and in Dec/Jan it can get down into the 30’s - sometimes below. Can I winterize my mandevillas and keep them outside? Plastic covers, for example? Not surprising I did nothing with last years and two of three died… the third started to come back in the spring but I replaced all with large, full plants.

    HI Don
    Mandevilla tolerates a minimum temperature of 45F. Any lower temperature and it will start to drop its leaves. When temps start to drop, wrap your container with insulation like bubble wrap. If the leaves drop off mulch the top of the soil to keep the roots from freezing. To protect the plant from a cold snap throw a blanket over the plant and remove the next day. For more ideas see Winterize mandevilla.

  • Virginia Crouch
    October 5th, 2008 at 6:24 pm · Reply

    Mandevilla seeds
    I love your site and I have a question about my Mandevilla. This is my second year and I’m going to take them in this year to try and save them. One of the plants is getting seed pods. I’ll plant the seeds in the spring at my friends greenhouse. Will they produce large, blooming plants the first year?

    HI Virginia
    Wait till the bean-like pod turns brown before you pick it. Lightly cover the seeds with a soil starter mix. Keep it warm with bottom heat 68-77F and constantly moist-not wet. Germination should occur in 14-30 days. Once leaves start to show. move them into sunlight.
    I have not grown them from seed but I suspect that the first year will be spent on root/leaf growth and not flowers. Good luck and let us know what happened.

  • Barbara Wilson
    October 19th, 2008 at 7:52 am · Reply

    topic: Mandevilla
    I have two Mandevilla in Oklahoma City which have bloomed beautifully all summer and I will be bringing them indoors for the winter; however, one of the plants leaves are turning yellow and dying while the other is thriving. I have looked for white flies and found none. What else can be happening and what can I do to save this beautiful plant?

    HI Babara
    It’s possible that your mandevilla may be responding to cooler temperatures and is going dormant whereas the other one is still thriving. Just like people, not all plants react the same way. It should not have white flies at this time of year as its getting too cold for them. Store the dormant mandevilla in a cool, dark place(see above article) and lightly water during the winter to keep it from drying out completely. Keep the thriving one in a sunny window until its ready to go dormant.

  • John Skinner
    December 12th, 2008 at 4:59 pm · Reply

    Pruning Mandevilla
    I live in Clearwater, FL and want to cut back my potted mandevilla vine to rejuvenate new growth. How far back is recommended? Should it be to the old growth? I would like to get flowers throughout, not only on the tips.

    Hi John
    Best time to prune is in Oct after bloom. At this time of year (Dec.) wait till early spring before new growth begins to cut your mandevilla back. Don’t cut back more than 1/2 of the plant up to hard wood. It blooms on new growth that comes from old wood.

  • Lynelle Lawrence
    January 22nd, 2009 at 7:23 pm · Reply

    Cold damage
    I live in Orlando, FL and have multiple gorgeous mandevilla plants growing over the fence around my back yard. We recently had several very cold nights, including a hard frost, and all my mandevilla have turned completely brown. Are they dead? Will they come back? Do I cut them back to the base of the plants?

    Hi Lynelle
    Wait till spring before trimming anything. Mandevilla leaves will turn brown and drop from cold temperatures, but as long as the roots are healthy, it should send out new growth in spring. You can then determine what stems died and need to be pruned out. Make sure the roots have some protection from the cold. A 1-2 inch organic mulch help. Also, if you hear that a cold spell is eminent, throw a blanket over the vine (if possible).

  • June
    February 22nd, 2009 at 10:07 am · Reply

    I have aphids on my Mandevilla plant that I have in my kitchen for winter storage. I want to get rid of the aphids without spraying a chemical in my house . Is there anything that will treat them by adding to the pot of soil it is planted in. It’s a huge vine and praying it would be difficult inside my home. This happened to my mandevilla last year inside the house and it lost every leaf. I put Rosebush insect treatment in the soil and it didn’t work, then I bought an indoor aphid spray and sprayed the few leaves and the vine . It suffered so much I cut it back . It grew when put out in the spring but never bloomed. Now what can I do. It was doing so good inside until now.
    What can I do? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Try the home remedy with pepper spray in our Aphid article or just an old fashioned water spray in a bathtub would help.In order to treat aphid at different stages of development, they require several treatments.

  • Lynn
    March 8th, 2009 at 10:27 am · Reply

    Hello, I purchased three Mandevilla plants through ebay. They arrived last week in great shape and in the bare root form. I planted them in 100% very well seasoned compost. They are about 2 to 3 feet tall. They are doing pretty well. Lost a few leaves but other wise OK. My question is. Can I cut them back to make them bushier or will that be too hard on them? If not then when? We live in St. Louis. I do not expect to set them out for another 60 days. Will I have to harden them off at that time? Do I harden them off just like a young perennial or annual seedling? Best regards

    Hi Lynn
    If your mandevilla is vigorously growing then you can cut it back to get fuller, bushier growth. By trimming the foliage, it will give the roots more time to develop (less top growth to maintain). You can trim it now or wait till you’re ready to take it outside. Set your mandevilla outdoors when night temps are in the 50’sF. You can harden it off just like perennials. Start by placing it in a protected shaded area for a week and then slowly increase the amount of sun exposure. If you set it out in direct sun, you can “fry” the leaves.

  • Tab
    March 9th, 2009 at 8:45 am · Reply

    i was just wondering if there is a specific bird or butterfly that like the Mandevilla?

    The tubular flowers can attract hummingbirds.

  • Maggie
    March 16th, 2009 at 6:53 am · Reply

    Mandevilla seeds
    I have seeds from my Mandevilla from last year. What do I need to do to get them to grow. I have planted a couple dozen in soil watered them every other day & nothing. Is there something I need to do in addition to this???

    Hi Maggie
    For best results you should use fresh Mandevilla seeds. Seeds from last year may have a viability issue. When you plant, barely cover the seeds with soil. Provide bottom heat 68-77F (20-25C) to help germination. Put the container on a heating pad or a propagating blanket (if you have one). Be sure the medium stays moist all times by placing a clear plastic tent or a sheet of glass over the container. With a little luck, the seeds should germinate in 14-30 days.

  • Isabelle Omundsen
    March 20th, 2009 at 7:07 pm · Reply

    Mandevilla seed
    I’m from New Zealand, and I have some third generation seed from my Grandparents Mandevilla plant, my Mom grew a plant and harvested seed, but it died, so I have the only seeds, and I didn’t know how to grow them! Thanks for the info I’ve read here, I’ll try your advice, and hopefully grow a new plant!

  • Leah Kedar
    April 4th, 2009 at 5:50 am · Reply

    I have two questions:
    1. how close and how deep can you plant Mandevillas?
    2. I recently saw a beautiful photo of a Mandevilla and a Clematis entertwined. How wise is it to plant the two together? And how close should they be planted?
    Thank you and I am looking forward to your reply.

    For starters, can your mandevilla winterover outdoors?

  • Chuck
    April 7th, 2009 at 6:39 am · Reply

    I just bought a Mandevilla plant that was outside at a garden center and now have it inside my home until the weather gets warmer. For some reason the new buds are falling off the plant. Is this ok??

    Hi Chuck
    Your mandevilla is probably reacting to the environment change (dry air, low light) . It should recover once its back outside in warm weather.

  • Jessika
    April 10th, 2009 at 12:48 pm · Reply

    Hi! This may seem silly, but I am trying to figure something out. I want to plant my Mandevilla in the garden so that it can climb beautifully along my posts. Problem is, in the winter I understand that it is not going to withstand the frost. Is there any solution or do I just need to keep them in the pots? How can I enjoy them climbing if I need to bring them in during the winter months? Thanks so much!

    Hi Jessika
    If you have to bring your Mandevilla inside for the winter, then it’s much easier to keep it in a pot instead of digging it up. They grow quickly during the summer and will climb. You can trim the vines when you bring it indoors for the winter. The other solution is to find a blooming vine like a clematis that is hardy in your area.

  • Tina Gale
    April 10th, 2009 at 3:27 pm · Reply

    Hi. I seem to have had bad luck with these plants. I’m on my third new one and the leaves become mottled, turn yellow, then brown until they dry up and fall off (along with the buds). It looks awful and may not make it. I do try to keep it in the sunnier room but not direct. I try to watch it does not dry out but wondering if the soil needs replacing even though it has been here for a month so chances are it is me, not the soil. I’ve tried a mild fertilizer. They are expensive to buy here and wondering what I am doing wrong. I live in northern Ontario, Canada. Thank you so much in advance.

    Hi Tina
    Keep in mind that mandevilla is a tropical plant and prefers to be in a humid warm climate. The best way to keep it is to place it outdoors during the summer in a sunny spot. Move it outdoors as soon as it warms up and night temperatures are in the 50’sF. Being a newly bought plant, I would not worry about replacing the soil or fertilizer at this time.

  • Chuck
    April 11th, 2009 at 6:54 am · Reply

    Would you recommend using a time release pellet type fertilizer.

    Time release fertilizer will work nicely through the whole growing season.

  • Tina Gale
    April 11th, 2009 at 6:45 pm · Reply

    Hi. I seem to have had bad luck with these plants. I’m on my third new one and the leaves become mottled, turn yellow, then brown until they dry up and fall off (along with the buds). It looks awful and may not make it. I do try to keep it in the sunnier room but not direct. I try to watch it does not dry out but wondering if the soil needs replacing even though it has been here for a month so chances are it is me, not the soil. I’ve tried a mild fertilizer. They are expensive to buy here and wondering what I am doing wrong. I live in northern Ontario, Canada. Thank you so much in advance.

  • Tina Gale
    April 11th, 2009 at 6:53 pm · Reply

    Hi and thank you for your speedy reply–awesome. The only thing is where we are, it will not get to be in the 50’s at night until mid June anyway and gets cold in September. What should I do for the interim? Also, I noticed that the plant has a double container–the one in which the plant is in has drainage holes and the other outer one has no holes, so I’m wondering if the plant is sitting in water and is suffering root rot. If I water it just a bit when needed–the soil will be hard, hard on top, but the soil at the bottom is wet. This is why I was thinking it needed to have new soil that is “dry” to absorb any excess moisture and top dress it with new soil. Is it OK to leave it in that type of pot being that it should not sit in water? (sorry for all the q’s–just frustrated as I’m pretty good with plants) Thanks again.:)

    HI Tina
    Put your mandevilla outside on a warm sunny day so that it can acclimated to brighter light and then take it in when temperatures get below 50. This will give them a chance to gradually adjust to the outdoors which they will prefer in summer. You do need to have good drainage, so if there is a possibility that the roots are sitting in water, you will have to change the container or provide drainage. If you suspect root rot, or bad soil, take the plant out of the container and repot it in fresh soil before it goes outside. When repotting, check the roots-if they are healthy, they should be a creamy color. When you water, give your mandevilla plenty of water-till it drains from the bottom of the container. It’s best to a lot water less often than often with little water.

  • Michelle
    April 14th, 2009 at 7:05 pm · Reply

    I just purchased two of these plants. They came in small pots from the nursery. I have them on my back yard fence. They are raised up and close to the fence. I thought this would be good for them. I already need to repot them as I can see the roots from the bottom of the plant. Would it be better to plant them in a planter on the ground next to the fence or find another way to attach them to the fence so that they hang? Also, what is the best way to repot them? Type of Soil? Fertilizer? This is very new to me. Thanks!

    Hi Michelle
    Before you plant them in the ground, make sure that they are hardy in your area and will not die over the winter. Planting them in the gorund would be the best way to get your mandevilla to climb and twine on your fence. They need a well-drained soil.

  • donald hunter
    April 20th, 2009 at 11:28 am · Reply

    have a pair of white mandevilla planted outside on trellis in 2/09. both were flourishing until about 3 weeks ago. one continues to look great. other has wilted leaves and some dead shoots. replanted wilted one 2 weeks ago thinking it might be getting water trapped at roots. gave it some fertilizer. do not see any signs of insects. wilted one looks same except more dead leaves, shoots, etc. what would you suggest as next step?

    Hi Donald
    Forget the fertilizer at this time. Your wilted plant may have some root damage. The roots cannot take up enough water to feed the leaves and that’s why they are wilted. Hopefully, your mandevilla is replanted in well-drained soil. Let the plant dry slightly before watering again. Cut back any dead foliage. You can try adding a root stimulant to help the roots recover.

  • Erin
    April 22nd, 2009 at 10:26 pm · Reply

    I just purchased two Mandevilla plants to brighten-up the sunny area in front of my brickfront townhouse. I saw the plant flourish last summer nearby and fell in love. Unfortunately, I didn’t do much research before buying it and need help. I currently have it outside (4/23/09) and am concerned about temp. I’m not sure if the commercial brand potting soil is right for this plant. I’m hoping to get advice on whether these plants should be out yet, how I should treat the soil, and how I can maintain them throughout the spring and summer months.

    Hi Erin
    Mandevilla is cold sensitive and can be taken outdoors when the danger of frost has passed and overnight temperatures reach over 50ºF. It likes full sun to part shade in the summer and a deep rich, well-drained soil. It will also need a trellis to support its long trailing vines. Provide plenty of water during the hot days of summer. To keep a healthy blooming plant, feed it every other week with a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) in the spring and summer.

  • lynn
    April 26th, 2009 at 6:10 am · Reply

    I have 18 plants-most from cuttings.

    Here’s what I’ve done every year and, so far it works. Do this BEFORE the night time temps get below 40.

    1)a WEEK before you are planning to move it inside, feed it well. The plan is to get it strong for the winter hibernation. WATER IT WELL THE DAY BEFORE OR MORNING OF YOUR PLANNED REMOVAL.
    2)on the day of removal, cut it back to about 1 - 1 1/2 feet from the soil with one good chop. Clean up the severed vines and discard.
    3)press your shovel ALL THE WAY TO THE GROUND in a circle around the plant about 6 inches from growth. Gently lift the plant out and place it in a pot that will hold it for the Winter.
    3)give it some water but not enough to run out of the pot.
    4)place the whole thing in a clear plastic trash bag and put it in a place that will not get below 40 degrees in the winter. A heated garage, a basement or a cool room. Tie the bag closed so that it will stay humid and dry out very slowly allowing the plant to adjust slowly. Here’s something that I do: once I put the plant in the bag, I give the plant a quick, LIGHT shot of all-purpose bug killer and then I tie the bag up. It seems to kill off anything that thinks it might hang out on the plant for the winter.
    5)now, forget about it until Spring.

    SPRING:
    Remove 2 shovels full of soil from the spot where you plan to put your Mandevilla. Fill in the spot with 2 shovels full of organic matter (compost) and sir it up and over very well. This will give the plant a happy home for the season. Remember to keep about half of the soil that is on the roots in the pot when transplanting.

    when the night temps are 40 or higher (in New Jersey I wait until April 20th)I move them outside, discard the plastic bag and water JUST A LITTLE. Because it hasn’t been in the sun for a few months, the leaves will burn. That’s normal. It WILL look dead and will lose any leaves that sprouted. This is normal. Just clean it up and know that this is the way the plant adjusts to the sun. Water it gently a few times until you are ready to put it in the ground. May 1st is when I plant mine.
    Before storing your containers for the summer, remember to wash them out with bleach and a mild dish detergent to kill off anything that’s not supposed to be there.
    Fertilize weekly with a weak solution of all purpose food.

    ENJOY FOR THE ENTIRE SUMMER!!

    Thanks for the insightful comment!

  • MILDA
    April 27th, 2009 at 8:03 pm · Reply

    I HAVE A MANDEVILLA PLANT I HAD LAST SUMMER. I TOOK IT IN FOR THE WINTER. KNOW THE DIRT LEVEL HAS DROPPED ABOUT 6 INCHES BELOW THE POT. HOW DO I TREAT THIS CONDITION?

    HI Milda
    The soil will compact from lack of moisture during the winter. The organic material in the soil breaks down and compacts making the air spaces disappear. So when you water the plant, it will quickly run out of the side of the pot or puddle on top of the soil and not go to where it should -the roots. It would be best replant your mandevilla in fresh soil. The other option is to mix fresh soil with the old soil for better drainage and added nutrients. Potting medium is good for 1-2 years.

  • Cathy Evans
    May 2nd, 2009 at 1:52 pm · Reply

    Hi, My husband bought me a mandevilla for a flower garden he fixed for me .He put a trellis behind the mandevilla and it didn’t take long ,for it to start wrapping around the trellis . I just love my mandevilla . We are going on vacation for a week. Will it be alright without watering it daily ? It is in the low 80’s in the day time . Thanks

    Hi Cathy
    Give your plant a good watering before you leave. You can also mulch around the base of the plant to help retain moisture. It should be fine for a week. If it is in a container, move it into the shade.

  • Rhonda Adams
    May 11th, 2009 at 7:31 pm · Reply

    Are mandevilla vines or plants poisonous to dogs?

    Hi Rhonda
    University of North Carolina suspects all parts to be poisonous. (www.ces.ncsu.edu) The milky latex can also be a skin irritant.

  • Carolynn
    May 12th, 2009 at 11:10 am · Reply

    I received a mandevilla vine for mother’s day. I was wondering, if earwigs would eat this plant?

  • whitney
    May 13th, 2009 at 8:53 am · Reply

    I bought 4 mandavilla’s for my porch, the containers they came in did not have any drainage holes so they held alot of water, 3 of the plants leaves turned brown only 1 new shoot on each how can I save my plant? No new leaf growth either.

    Hi Whitney
    First of all make sure there are drainage holes in the pot. The plants are dying because the roots are getting water logged and rotting, therefore there’s little new growth. I would repot in fresh well-drained soil to give the roots a chance to regrow.

  • MG
    May 21st, 2009 at 3:05 pm · Reply

    I’ve had a mandavlla for about 7 years, and winter it in my garage. This year it was slow to sprout ne growth (much slower than another one I have had three years). I knew it must be really root bound. While I have repotted it, its been at least three years. So I repotted it. The roots are full of what looks like sweet potatoes. It was so tight in the pot, we disconnected some of the tubors. Will they sprout new plants if I pot them? I’ve read you usually start from seed.

  • charlene
    May 21st, 2009 at 9:13 pm · Reply

    I am having a problem with my plant not wanting to grow. I have fertilized it and everything. It is not in fun sun. I do not know what to do…
    Also how can you cut and replant a piece to make it grow? I did not understand that part..

  • Nikki
    May 22nd, 2009 at 6:18 am · Reply

    I purchased a mandevilla plant last year but did not research it until now and left it outside all winter. Does it have a chance of coming back or will it only come back if brought inside for the winter? I live in Michigan where it gets very cold in the winter.

    Hi Nikki
    See article on wintering Mandevilla

  • Debbie
    May 22nd, 2009 at 9:48 am · Reply

    I bought a Mandevilla for the first time this spring. It has been on my front porch for about a week and seems to be doing fine. I want to transfer it into a slightly larger pot, but the plant came with a trellis in the pot. The plant is not just vining up the trellis, but has been twisted around and around all of the sections of the trellis. I can’t imagine that this is natural, so the plant must have been wrapped around the trellis as it grew. This trellis is not very tall and I would like to replace it with a taller one, but how do I replace it without damaging the plant. Or, should I just leave the short trellis alone and replace it when I cut the plant back next year? Any information on this would be greatly appreciated.

    Hi Debbie
    It may be difficult to unravel the vine without causing some damage to it. If you have lots of patience, you can give it a try. If your mandevilla has a vigorous growing season then it will surpass the trellis and hang over. What about adding a taller trellis w/o taking off the short one so new growth will have somewhere to go. You can then deal with the short trellis when you cut it back.

  • darlene
    May 24th, 2009 at 7:41 pm · Reply

    how can i tell if mandevillla roots are still alive they look they are in a big pot the pot is full of roots how do i make it grow again there is nothing growing out of the roots help

  • Diane
    May 25th, 2009 at 8:18 am · Reply

    I bought my Mandevilla on clearance and it only had one flower on it. Since then I have repotted it and fertilized it but still no flowers. The leaves are growing with new stems, however I don’t see any signs of flower buds. Did I buy a lemon?

    HI Diane
    The plant has to put on some growth before it starts to bloom again. It may just be slow to start and will eventually bloom. Be careful not to feed it too much nitrogen fertilizer (first #) as that will give you lots of leaves and no flowers. For best bloom place it in full sun.

  • Jean S
    May 26th, 2009 at 10:03 am · Reply

    Hi-I have a mandevilla that was a gift last year and grew beautifully out of a pot with trellis last year–I ilve in ILL so it wintered inside and began growing rather vigorously inside in the early spring. One of my cats chewed off much of the new growth and since then (it now is back outside again) it seems to be growing in slow motion. It is definately alive but I don’t think it’s grown an inch in the last month–the whole plant is about 8 inches tall and the leaves only 2-3 inches long–MUCH, MUCH smaller than last year–What do I do?

  • Polly
    May 31st, 2009 at 7:33 am · Reply

    I live in Houston, TX and have two mandevillas in my back yard, shaded with 30 - 40 ft magnolia and live oaks. These plants had taken over the back yard and were climbing all over the trees. Two years ago, I decided to have them cut to the ground (taking part of the magnolia and live oaks with them). They are growing back fine. I’m training them to follow my fence, rather than climb the trees. So far they have not bloomed. Do they need full sun to bloom or is it just a matter of time? They get more sun now that the trees had to be trimmed. Also, what is the best time to trim these? They are very hardy and have lived through all our winters. I would love some flowers, but need to control their growth some. Thank you.

    Hi Polly
    Early spring is a good time to prune mandevilla. Once you cut them back it’s a matter of time for them to start blooming. Mandevilla needs to put on about a foot or more of new growth to start blooming. Full sun should help produce more flowers.

  • Lois
    May 31st, 2009 at 12:56 pm · Reply

    I just bought 2 mandevilla plants and want to put them outside for the summer. Do deer eat mandevilla?

    Hi Lois
    No, mandevilla doesn’t seem to be a favorite dish for deer. So it should be safe-but as I always say, if they are hungry enough, they will eat anything.

  • Leslie
    June 4th, 2009 at 8:56 am · Reply

    Just purchased a red dipladenia-type mandevilla. Yesterday it looked good. Today it appears to have a powdery mildew forming (looks like the stuff lilacs get) on its dark green leaves near the base of the plant. We have had warm humid weather, and today is cool and dark. How can I best treat this?
    I have had success with the large-leaved pink kind and never had this happen.

    Hi Leslie
    See powdery mildew article for simple, safe treatment ideas.

  • Debbie Anne
    June 23rd, 2009 at 9:10 pm · Reply

    Ok, I live in Nebraska and have for 7 years. I have found that 2 plants that I have always gathered the seed and replanted (they were Annuals) have started growing without me seeding them (they seed themselves. I am not sure if this is due to the many generations being resown… (over 11 years now that I have had them)… so back to my Mandevilla I just bought… If I let it enjoy the outrageous heat of Summer, and collect the seeds (and “sow a few” do you think the seeds will lie dormant until the spring? That is what the others have begun to do.

    Hi Debbie
    My guess is that being a tropical plant, mandevilla seeds will not survive the winter cold in Nebraska. If you do get a seed pod, you would have to sow it indoors in a container.
    Perhaps someone out there has had some experience with this.

  • David
    June 27th, 2009 at 9:04 am · Reply

    Re-potting mandevilla
    Re-potting Question: The pot we got with our plant is pretty small and we’re gonna be upsizing it. I haven’t seen any mention of it yet on this site but would it be adviseable to put a layer of rock at the bottom to support drainage or no?
    Zone 5.

    Hi David
    I don’t know why that never came up. Yes, its a good idea to put a layer of rock at the bottom. I do that not only for drainage but also to weight down the pot so that it doesn’t topple over in a strong wind. Upsize 1-2″ larger no more.

    • David
      June 27th, 2009 at 12:18 pm · Reply

      Adding on to my post, we were looking for the 10-20-10 combo for plant food but the best we have in our area that even comes close is 15-30-15 which is the same ratio just higher levels of each. We didn’t get it yet. The other option of course is Miracle Grow’s 20-20-20 all purpose. Thoughts

      Hi David
      The 20-20-20 is a well balanced fertilizer that works on most plants. The higher middle #(phosphorous) promotes more bloom. If your plant is healthy and growing 20-20-20 should do the trick. When you repot your mandevilla, it will not need any fertilizer as there should be enough nutrients in the soil esp. if it already contains fertilizer. Wait one month before applying any fertilizer.

  • kathy
    June 30th, 2009 at 12:46 pm · Reply

    Why aren’t my mandevillas blooming? They are growing like crazy but no blooms. What can i do?

  • carrie
    June 30th, 2009 at 7:17 pm · Reply

    I purchased a Mandivilla and started having problems with the leaves yellowing. I read on here and was told by someone at a local greenhouse that it needed to be fertilized. I got the 10-20-10 and was told to add 1tsp every 2 weeks. After adding the first tsp my plant started dying by the next morning. I have ran water through the soil to remove whatever fertilizer is left but it hasn’t seemed to help. I also have seen no signs of blooms before the yellowing started. Is there anything else I can do to bring it back? I do still have some green on it.

    Hi Carrie,
    I’m not sure what kind of fertilizer you used. Most granules need to be diluted in water. Usually the package will have directions on usage. It may take a few waterings to leach out all the fertilizer. To leach out excess fertilizer, water the plant thoroughly until it starts to drain out of the bottom wait 30-60 minutes and then water again.

  • lynn
    April 26th, 2009 at 6:19 am · Reply

    It could still be adjusting to the location. Pinch off the dead/yellow growth and watch it for a few weeks. You may be fertilizing it too much especially since it is potted. Remember to always fertilize with half of the recommended dose if you are fertilizing it more than once a month.
    These plants are not crazy about hot roots. You may want to consider planting it or moving it to a location where it gets a bit of shade during the hottest part of the day.

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