Translator

Archives

Follow Planttips on Twitter

Mandevilla

Mandevilla tips and care

Mandevilla belongs to a large family that also includes plants that were formerly known as Dipladenia. It was named after a British diplomat/gardener Henry Mandeville. This exotic plant bears trumpet shaped flowers shades of pink, yellow and white (some fragrant) on twining vines with puckered, oval leaves.

mandevilla

This tropical plant is hardy (depending on cultivars) in zones 9-11 and therefore is for the most part of the U.S. treated as a houseplant. It is grown outdoors for the summer and in cold weather taken indoors to endure the winter.

Care
Outdoors: Mandevilla is cold sensitive and can be taken outdoors when the danger of frost has passed and overnight temperatures reach over 50ºF. It likes full sun to part shade in the summer and a deep rich, well-drained soil. It will also need a trellis to support its long trailing vines. Provide plenty of water during the hot days of summer. To keep a healthy blooming plant, feed it every other week with a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) in the spring and summer. In order to maintain the tangled growth during the season, pinch off new shoot tips which will produce a bushier plant. Trimming will not reduce flowering as it blooms on new growth. Use the cuttings to make new plants.

Propagation
It can be started from seed at temperatures of 70-80ºF. A faster way is to take cuttings in the spring and summer which will easily root and develop new plants. More info on how to Propagate Mandevilla.

Watch out for mealybugs, scales, whitefllies and red spider mites.

More info on Winterover mandevilla 


Check the great prices at DirectGardening.com

  1. Propagate mandevilla How to Propagate mandevilla From cuttings Mandevilla plant can be easily propagated from...

88 comments to Mandevilla

  • Christa

    Whitefly
    What are the white, flying bugs that look kind of like aphids? Are they aphids and how do I get rid of them? Also, what kind of damage do they do to Mandevillas? Thank you, Christa

    If they fly when the plant is disturbed then it sounds like white fly. They can be difficult to control. Use insecticidal soap spray and be sure to spray the underside of the leaves as that’s where they lay their eggs. To control spray every 5-7 days for about 2 weeks. It should take care of the adults and hatching eggs. If insecticidal soap doesn’t do the job try a pyrethroid type insecticide and follow manufacturers direction as to its use.

  • Diane Alcorn

    Yellow leaf drop
    Regarding the Mandevilla - I live in Dana Point, California right on the coast. It’s temperate here and never drops below 50 degrees. Still, my plant leaves are getting sparse and yellow. What should I do?

    Some of the reason for yellowing leaves & leaf drop is the possibility of winter dormancy-the cooler outdoor temperatures,shorter days will stop growth causing seasonal shedding. By this time of year it should show signs of new growth. Drought stress and underfertilization can also cause yellowing/leaf drop. Also check for insects and webbing on the plant, which is a sign a spider mites infestation. At this point I would trim back the plant, wait for signs of new green growth and then fertilize.

  • dawn

    I know this is going to strike you as funny but my husband has a goat that keeps eating the ends of my mandevilla vine. what can I do to stop this? (short of shooting the goat)

    I read about a new Australian research that produced a product from tiger feces which is effective on wild goats, if you can stand the smell. I don’t know if the product is out on the market yet. My suggestion would be to try a product called Liquid fence-it seems to work for deer and other small animals. It also has an unpleasant smell. You can also try a hot spray mix: use 2-3 cloves garlic, 3-4 hot red peppers (Habaneras, serrano) grind up in a blender and mix in a gallon of water along with a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Spray on the tips and see if the goat stays away. Goats seem to eat everything so they just might like the spicy mix.

  • Karen H

    I have a new arbor and would love to plant mandevilla on either side. Due to limited space, I am wondering if I can plant them in a ‘window box’ container which is about 4″ deep alongside each side of the arbor. Suggestions?

    A 4 inch depth may not be deep enough to accomidate the root system. I would suggest at least 8-12 inches deep. Planting along the arbor is a great idea gives them room to vine.

  • ann connor

    Ants on plant
    My mandevilla has tiny ants all over the leaves and the blooms and also yellow stuff, kind of looks like very tiny eggs.

    It may be possible that they are aphids instead of eggs. Ants are attracted to aphids because of the honeydew they secrete.

  • Barbara

    Yellow leaves
    My mandevillahas lots of yellow leaves on the lower mature vines. It is outside in partial shade and gets all the Florida thunderstorms…sun after 2 pm! This began immediately after purchase and repotting..It is growing great but leaf loss is increasing..

    Barring insect infestation, yellowing older leaves can be a respose to stress, such as overwatering, lack of fertilizer(nitrogen) or the plant is just shedding some of its old leaves. In your case, my guess is that the plant is responding to the new environment and transplant shock. The older yellowing leaves can also indicate lack of nitrogen. At this point, I would give the plant time to readjust to the new environment. Give it a light dose(1/2 ) of fertilizer (8-12-12 or even a 10-10-10) to give it a boost. You can fertilize lightly every two weeks until mid- Sept to envigorate your plant before winter. Be sure that the soil is well drained, not water logged.

  • Sherry

    I also have mandevillas that are turning brown and dying. I have already lost two this summer and two more that are dying. The leaves turn brown mostly on the tips and outer edges first then move to the whole leaf. Some of the flower buds also turn brown. They also have long shoots with no leaves or flowers. They have done well in past years.

    If the weather has been hot in your area brown edges on the leaves can be caused by hot,dry air, or sun scorch. In additon browning leaves can be an indicator of underwatering especially if the mandevillas are growing in a container. Hot weather will require watering for as much 3 times a week to to keep the plant from drying out . Be sure to water enough and let the water drain out-don’t allow your plant to sit in water or you will have other problems (root rot). You may also want to give it a dose of fertilizer (8-12-12) to boost it up for the upcoming winter. Brown leaves can also be pest or disease related.

    Tonya
    Never had a problem with my mandevilla before but we have had several days around 95F (gets afternoon sun) so I increased my watering to everyday instead of every other and now the unopened buds are falling off. Is it too much heat/sun or too much water?

    It’s suffering from too much heat. The increased watering in hot weather is fine as long as it drains well and the pot is not sitting in water. If your mandevilla is in a container, move it to a shaded spot until the heat subsides.

  • A.E.Bentley

    I am trying to find some photos of a Mandevilla. We have a vine with large red flowers and have been told it is a Mandevilla but the only info I can find tells me the Mandevilla is pink or white. Please help

    There is a cultivar of Mandevilla sanderi ( syn. Dipladenia sanderi ) called Scarlet Pimpernel that produces red flowers. The foliage is a smooth, glossy green color.

  • Paul Gardner

    speed up flowering
    I have a question on flowering of the mandevilla. This is my third year with the plant, I have done everything that you suggested when it comes to winter storage and fertilizing. I live in Ontario, Canada and wanted to know if there is any way to speed up the flowering. I know the flowers come from the heat. It seems like my flowers really on come in August-September I was wondering is there any way to get flowering going earlier… say late June?
    Thanks Paul

    Because Mandevillas bloom on new growth, they need to put on good healthy growth early in the season in order to initiate blooming. Janet Carson Extension adviser suggests that some Mandevilla are slow to start when they are rootbound from last years growth. You may need to replant it into a larger container or at least replace half of the existing soil and trim back the roots. In addition, cut back the plant by 1/3-1/2 in Feb/March which will stimulate new healthy growth fit for blooming. Keep in mind weak, stindly growth will produce less flowers. Provide full sun and fertilze like you have been. Hopefully, this will jumpstart to an earlier bloom.

  • Renee Barry

    Epsom salt
    I had inquired about a beautiful Mandevillea and was told that Epson salt was scratched in the soil that made it look so pretty. I was wondering if you heard anything about this trick?

    The use of epsom salt is an old time trick used on many blooming plants (roses). It contains magnesium and sulfur, two micronutrients essential for flowering plants. Plants that lack magnesium will develop curling, yellow leaves with green veins and stunted growth and sulfur lowers the soil ph. If your soil is lacking these elements then it can be of some use but if you fertilize you plants with a well balanced fertilizer that includes these micronutrients then chances are the plant is getting what it needs. According to Epsom salt council.org it “helps seeds germinate , makes plants grow bushier, produces more flowers, increases chlorophyll production and improves phosphorus and nitrogen uptake .” You might want to try it and see if it makes a difference.

  • Joel Studebkaer

    Not blooming
    We received a mandevilla last summer, put it in the ground at our NJ home, and watched it bloom prolifically. We brought it inside in the fall, and it sent up new shoots about February. After the last frost, we moved it to the same outdoor spot it was in last year. Though it has grown well since then, it hasn’t bloomed. Please advise. JS

    Have you been fertilizing the plant? During the growing season you should feed it with a 10-20-10 (high phosphorous)fertilizer every two weeks. If it gets too much nitrogen (1st #) then it will produce lots of leaves and no flowers.

    Jeanette Johnson
    My mandevilla appears to be growing healthy and happy. I have it in a sunny location, out doors. I am feeding it a liquid feed three times per week, Miracle Grow All Purpose 24-8-16. I am getting no flowers. How come?

    You are feeding it too much nitrogen (first #) therefore you are getting leaves and no flowers. Try a bloom boost or a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) every two weeks.

  • Steve Riva

    I live in Santa Monica, CA. I would like to plant Mandevilla on a trellis that is 15 feet high. It gets partial afternoon sun on the west side of the house. Will they survive in these conditions. How many plants need to cover fifteen feet spread? All the best. Steve

    Hi Steve
    Partial shade is great for Mandevilla. Be sure it has rich, well-drained, composted soil. They grow to 20+ feet high and depending on the variety Mandevilla spread 3-5 ft wide. You can pinch the plant to promote bushiness and get a wider spread. If all goes well, plan on spacing them 36-60 inches, therefore 3-5 plants should fill in your trellis.

  • Jen

    Spider mites
    Can spider mites kill or harm my plant? How often/long should I treat the plant for? Since its indoor how often should I water? You have been very helpful. Hope you and your family have a safe and enjoyable holidays.

    Some of the symptoms for spider mite infestation are tiny dots or stippling that causes a bronze, grayish mottled look. Eventually the leaves will start to turn yellow/brown along the veins and drop. In severe infections you will also see webbing on the plant. To be sure you have spider mites, take a white sheet of paper, place it on the underside side of the leaves and tap on the leaf. If you see tiny pindots moving on the paper, then you have spider mites. Isolate your plant from any others because they spread easily. To control the infestation, spray the plant with insecticidal soap every 3-5 days for two weeks. Be sure throughly spray the plant getting the underside of the leaves. If insecticidal soap does not do the trick try Neem oil. Spider mites love the hot, dry environment that is indoors during the winter. Water your mandevilla just enough to keep it from wilting-keeping it on the dry side and mist it to increase the humidity. If the infestation gets out of control, cut back the plant, place it in a cool(garage) place and let it go dormant for the winter.

  • Donna castellani

    Leaf spot disease
    I have brown spots on my mandevilla vine leaf especially near the veining. What is this and what do I do?

    There are two types of leaf spots diseases caused by either bacteria or fungus that can occur during the warm, wet summer months 1. Corynesporo Cassicola 2. Cereospera. The disease spreads quickly on wet foliage. Cercospora begins with small purple spots which enlarge and develop dried tan areas in the center showing an overall brown spot. The leaves turn yellow with the spots and fall off after a few days. The best control is to avoid overhead watering, sanitation – remove any infected leaves and spray with a fungicide (Zyban) . Follow label directions. This site has some photos of the diseases. http://www.velvetmandevilla.com/diseases_of_mandevilla.htm

  • Ruth Cohan

    Tubers
    I live in Savannah GA & did not bring my Mandevilla in for the winter. When I dug it out of its planter, it had many healthy looking tuberous roots. Can I replant the root/tubers and expect them to grow? How long to maturity?

    If the tuber is alive and is producing healthy roots it should start growing when temperatures are above 50F. Scratch the surface of the tuber to see if it’s green, that should give you an indication that it’s alive. It should send out new shoots by May or sooner and bloom this summer on the new growth.

  • Joan

    I purchased a hanging potted mandevilla…then discovered it will climb…can I place it near a trellis or what works best for Midwest weather?

    Since it is in a hanging pot, let it grow just like any other hanging plant. If it gets too long just trim it and it should send out side shoots making it bushier. Mandevilla that are not in a hanging pot can be grown on a trellis.

  • Peggy Allen

    Is it possible to start a mandevilla from the tubers of an older plant? Just the tubers, not the whole root.

    Hi Peggy
    There some conflicting information about starting the plant from a tuber. If the tuber is green underneath the skin and has at least 2 “eyes” , it is worth a try. If you can get a bit of root (hairlike strands) with your tuber for better sucess. Keep the pot warm and moist. I repotted a small tuber from the mother plant that had a sprout on it and a few roots and now have a new plant.

  • Sheryl

    Slow to bloom
    I pulled up my Mandevilla this spring thinking it was dead but discovered a sprout from one of the fleshy roots so I replanted it into a large pot. It finally recovered from the shock and has lots of leaves/vines but no blooms. It bloomed into the fall last year. Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Sheryl (south Louisiana)

    Hi Sheryl
    Since your mandevilla is off to a slow start and needs to put on a few feet of growth before it starts to initiate bloom. You don’t mention fertilizer- a 10-20-10 would help flowering. Hopefully, it will start to bloom soon.

  • SUE B

    I have a pot of Mandevillas that have bloomed. My question is does the Mandevilla come with the trumpet type flower as seen on most sites and also a double or rose type bloom? Mine has both on the same plant. The double one almost looks like a carnation with large petals around it. Is this normal?

    Hi Sue
    It may be that you have both single and double types planted in one pot. There are new cultivars such as Tango Twirl or Rita Marie Green that produce double rose-like flowers.

  • John Skinner

    Pruning Mandevilla
    I live in Clearwater, FL and want to cut back my potted mandevilla vine to rejuvenate new growth. How far back is recommended? Should it be to the old growth? I would like to get flowers throughout, not only on the tips.

    Hi John
    Best time to prune is in Oct or after bloom. At this time of year (Dec.) wait till early spring before new growth begins to cut your mandevilla back. Don’t cut back more than 1/2 of the plant up to the hard wood. Because mandevilla blooms on last year’s growth, you want to leave some current season’s growth so that they bloom next year.

  • Lynelle Lawrence

    Cold damage
    I live in Orlando, FL and have multiple gorgeous mandevilla plants growing over the fence around my back yard. We recently had several very cold nights, including a hard frost, and all my mandevilla have turned completely brown. Are they dead? Will they come back? Do I cut them back to the base of the plants?

    Hi Lynelle
    Wait till spring before trimming anything. Mandevilla leaves will turn brown and drop from cold temperatures, but as long as the roots are healthy, it should send out new growth in spring. You can then determine what stems died and need to be pruned out. Make sure the roots have some protection from the cold. A 1-2 inch organic mulch help. Also, if you hear that a cold spell is eminent, throw a blanket over the vine (if possible).

  • June

    I have aphids on my Mandevilla plant that I have in my kitchen for winter storage. I want to get rid of the aphids without spraying a chemical in my house . Is there anything that will treat them by adding to the pot of soil it is planted in. It’s a huge vine and praying it would be difficult inside my home. This happened to my mandevilla last year inside the house and it lost every leaf. I put Rosebush insect treatment in the soil and it didn’t work, then I bought an indoor aphid spray and sprayed the few leaves and the vine . It suffered so much I cut it back . It grew when put out in the spring but never bloomed. Now what can I do. It was doing so good inside until now.
    What can I do? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Try the home remedy with pepper spray in our Aphid article or just an old fashioned water spray in a bathtub would help.In order to treat aphid at different stages of development, they require several treatments.

    My mandevilla has tiny ants all over the leaves and the blooms and also yellow stuff, kind of looks like very tiny eggs.

    It may be possible that they are aphids instead of eggs. Ants are attracted to aphids because of the honeydew they secrete.

  • Pruning mandevilla
    Hello, I purchased three Mandevilla plants through ebay. They arrived last week in great shape and in the bare root form. I planted them in 100% very well seasoned compost. They are about 2 to 3 feet tall. They are doing pretty well. Lost a few leaves but other wise OK. My question is. Can I cut them back to make them bushier or will that be too hard on them? If not then when? We live in St. Louis. I do not expect to set them out for another 60 days. Will I have to harden them off at that time? Do I harden them off just like a young perennial or annual seedling? Best regards

    Hi Lynn
    If your mandevilla is vigorously growing then you can cut it back to get fuller, bushier growth. By trimming the foliage, it will give the roots more time to develop (less top growth to maintain). You can trim it now or wait till you’re ready to take it outside. Set your mandevilla outdoors when night temps are in the 50’sF. You can harden it off just like perennials. Start by placing it in a protected shaded area for a week and then slowly increase the amount of sun exposure. If you set it out in direct sun, you can “fry” the leaves.

  • Tab

    i was just wondering if there is a specific bird or butterfly that like the Mandevilla?

    The tubular flowers can attract hummingbirds.

  • Chuck

    Would you recommend using a time release pellet type fertilizer.

    Time release fertilizer will work nicely through the whole growing season.

  • Tina Gale

    Hi. I seem to have had bad luck with these plants. I’m on my third new one and the leaves become mottled, turn yellow, then brown until they dry up and fall off (along with the buds). It looks awful and may not make it. I do try to keep it in the sunnier room but not direct. I try to watch it does not dry out but wondering if the soil needs replacing even though it has been here for a month so chances are it is me, not the soil. I’ve tried a mild fertilizer. They are expensive to buy here and wondering what I am doing wrong. I live in northern Ontario, Canada. Thank you so much in advance.

  • Tina Gale

    Hi and thank you for your speedy reply–awesome. The only thing is where we are, it will not get to be in the 50’s at night until mid June anyway and gets cold in September. What should I do for the interim? Also, I noticed that the plant has a double container–the one in which the plant is in has drainage holes and the other outer one has no holes, so I’m wondering if the plant is sitting in water and is suffering root rot. If I water it just a bit when needed–the soil will be hard, hard on top, but the soil at the bottom is wet. This is why I was thinking it needed to have new soil that is “dry” to absorb any excess moisture and top dress it with new soil. Is it OK to leave it in that type of pot being that it should not sit in water? (sorry for all the q’s–just frustrated as I’m pretty good with plants) Thanks again.:)

    HI Tina
    Put your mandevilla outside on a warm sunny day so that it can acclimated to brighter light and then take it in when temperatures get below 50. This will give them a chance to gradually adjust to the outdoors which they will prefer in summer. You do need to have good drainage, so if there is a possibility that the roots are sitting in water, you will have to change the container or provide drainage. If you suspect root rot, or bad soil, take the plant out of the container and repot it in fresh soil before it goes outside. When repotting, check the roots-if they are healthy, they should be a creamy color. When you water, give your mandevilla plenty of water-till it drains from the bottom of the container. It’s best to a lot water less often than often with little water.

  • donald hunter

    have a pair of white mandevilla planted outside on trellis in 2/09. both were flourishing until about 3 weeks ago. one continues to look great. other has wilted leaves and some dead shoots. replanted wilted one 2 weeks ago thinking it might be getting water trapped at roots. gave it some fertilizer. do not see any signs of insects. wilted one looks same except more dead leaves, shoots, etc. what would you suggest as next step?

    Hi Donald
    Forget the fertilizer at this time. Your wilted plant may have some root damage. The roots cannot take up enough water to feed the leaves and that’s why they are wilted. Hopefully, your mandevilla is replanted in well-drained soil. Let the plant dry slightly before watering again. Cut back any dead foliage. You can try adding a root stimulant to help the roots recover.

  • Erin

    I just purchased two Mandevilla plants to brighten-up the sunny area in front of my brickfront townhouse. I saw the plant flourish last summer nearby and fell in love. Unfortunately, I didn’t do much research before buying it and need help. I currently have it outside (4/23/09) and am concerned about temp. I’m not sure if the commercial brand potting soil is right for this plant. I’m hoping to get advice on whether these plants should be out yet, how I should treat the soil, and how I can maintain them throughout the spring and summer months.

    Hi Erin
    Mandevilla is cold sensitive and can be taken outdoors when the danger of frost has passed and overnight temperatures reach over 50ºF. It likes full sun to part shade in the summer and a deep rich, well-drained soil. It will also need a trellis to support its long trailing vines. Provide plenty of water during the hot days of summer. To keep a healthy blooming plant, feed it every other week with a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) in the spring and summer.

  • lynn

    *Mandevilla care tips
    I have 18 plants-most from cuttings.
    Here’s what I’ve done every year and, so far it works. Do this BEFORE the night time temps get below 40.
    Prepare for winter
    1)a WEEK before you are planning to move it inside, feed it well. The plan is to get it strong for the winter hibernation. WATER IT WELL THE DAY BEFORE OR MORNING OF YOUR PLANNED REMOVAL.
    2)on the day of removal, cut it back to about 1 – 1 1/2 feet from the soil with one good chop. Clean up the severed vines and discard.
    3)press your shovel ALL THE WAY TO THE GROUND in a circle around the plant about 6 inches from growth. Gently lift the plant out and place it in a pot that will hold it for the Winter.
    3)give it some water but not enough to run out of the pot.
    4)place the whole thing in a clear plastic trash bag and put it in a place that will not get below 40 degrees in the winter. A heated garage, a basement or a cool room. Tie the bag closed so that it will stay humid and dry out very slowly allowing the plant to adjust slowly. Here’s something that I do: once I put the plant in the bag, I give the plant a quick, LIGHT shot of all-purpose bug killer and then I tie the bag up. It seems to kill off anything that thinks it might hang out on the plant for the winter.
    5)now, forget about it until Spring.

    SPRING:
    Remove 2 shovels full of soil from the spot where you plan to put your Mandevilla. Fill in the spot with 2 shovels full of organic matter (compost) and sir it up and over very well. This will give the plant a happy home for the season. Remember to keep about half of the soil that is on the roots in the pot when transplanting.

    when the night temps are 40 or higher (in New Jersey I wait until April 20th)I move them outside, discard the plastic bag and water JUST A LITTLE. Because it hasn’t been in the sun for a few months, the leaves will burn. That’s normal. It WILL look dead and will lose any leaves that sprouted. This is normal. Just clean it up and know that this is the way the plant adjusts to the sun. Water it gently a few times until you are ready to put it in the ground. May 1st is when I plant mine.
    Before storing your containers for the summer, remember to wash them out with bleach and a mild dish detergent to kill off anything that’s not supposed to be there.
    Fertilize weekly with a weak solution of all purpose food.
    ENJOY FOR THE ENTIRE SUMMER!!

    Thanks for the insightful comment!

  • MILDA

    I HAVE A MANDEVILLA PLANT I HAD LAST SUMMER. I TOOK IT IN FOR THE WINTER. KNOW THE DIRT LEVEL HAS DROPPED ABOUT 6 INCHES BELOW THE POT. HOW DO I TREAT THIS CONDITION?

    HI Milda
    The soil will compact from lack of moisture during the winter. The organic material in the soil breaks down and compacts making the air spaces disappear. So when you water the plant, it will quickly run out of the side of the pot or puddle on top of the soil and not go to where it should -the roots. It would be best replant your mandevilla in fresh soil. The other option is to mix fresh soil with the old soil for better drainage and added nutrients. Potting medium is good for 1-2 years.

  • Cathy Evans

    Hi, My husband bought me a mandevilla for a flower garden he fixed for me .He put a trellis behind the mandevilla and it didn’t take long ,for it to start wrapping around the trellis . I just love my mandevilla . We are going on vacation for a week. Will it be alright without watering it daily ? It is in the low 80’s in the day time . Thanks

    Hi Cathy
    Give your plant a good watering before you leave. You can also mulch around the base of the plant to help retain moisture. It should be fine for a week. If it is in a container, move it into the shade.

  • Rhonda Adams

    Are mandevilla vines or plants poisonous to dogs?

    Hi Rhonda
    University of North Carolina suspects all parts to be poisonous. (www.ces.ncsu.edu) The milky latex can also be a skin irritant.

  • whitney

    I bought 4 mandavilla’s for my porch, the containers they came in did not have any drainage holes so they held alot of water, 3 of the plants leaves turned brown only 1 new shoot on each how can I save my plant? No new leaf growth either.

    Hi Whitney
    First of all make sure there are drainage holes in the pot. The plants are dying because the roots are getting water logged and rotting, therefore there’s little new growth. I would repot in fresh well-drained soil to give the roots a chance to regrow.

  • Debbie

    I bought a Mandevilla for the first time this spring. It has been on my front porch for about a week and seems to be doing fine. I want to transfer it into a slightly larger pot, but the plant came with a trellis in the pot. The plant is not just vining up the trellis, but has been twisted around and around all of the sections of the trellis. I can’t imagine that this is natural, so the plant must have been wrapped around the trellis as it grew. This trellis is not very tall and I would like to replace it with a taller one, but how do I replace it without damaging the plant. Or, should I just leave the short trellis alone and replace it when I cut the plant back next year? Any information on this would be greatly appreciated.

    Hi Debbie
    It may be difficult to unravel the vine without causing some damage to it. If you have lots of patience, you can give it a try. If your mandevilla has a vigorous growing season then it will surpass the trellis and hang over. What about adding a taller trellis w/o taking off the short one so new growth will have somewhere to go. You can then deal with the short trellis when you cut it back.

  • Diane

    I bought my Mandevilla on clearance and it only had one flower on it. Since then I have repotted it and fertilized it but still no flowers. The leaves are growing with new stems, however I don’t see any signs of flower buds. Did I buy a lemon?

    HI Diane
    The plant has to put on some growth before it starts to bloom again. It may just be slow to start and will eventually bloom. Be careful not to feed it too much nitrogen fertilizer (first #) as that will give you lots of leaves and no flowers. For best bloom place it in full sun.

  • Polly

    Pruning Mandevilla
    I live in Houston, TX and have two mandevillas in my back yard, shaded with 30 – 40 ft magnolia and live oaks. These plants had taken over the back yard and were climbing all over the trees. Two years ago, I decided to have them cut to the ground (taking part of the magnolia and live oaks with them). They are growing back fine. I’m training them to follow my fence, rather than climb the trees. So far they have not bloomed. Do they need full sun to bloom or is it just a matter of time? They get more sun now that the trees had to be trimmed. Also, what is the best time to trim these? They are very hardy and have lived through all our winters. I would love some flowers, but need to control their growth some. Thank you.

    Hi Polly
    Early spring is a good time to prune mandevilla. Once you cut them back it’s a matter of time for them to start blooming. Mandevilla needs to put on about a foot or more of new growth to start blooming. Full sun should help produce more flowers.

  • Lois

    I just bought 2 mandevilla plants and want to put them outside for the summer. Do deer eat mandevilla?

    Hi Lois
    No, mandevilla doesn’t seem to be a favorite dish for deer. So it should be safe-but as I always say, if they are hungry enough, they will eat anything.

  • Debbie Anne

    Ok, I live in Nebraska and have for 7 years. I have found that 2 plants that I have always gathered the seed and replanted (they were Annuals) have started growing without me seeding them (they seed themselves. I am not sure if this is due to the many generations being resown… (over 11 years now that I have had them)… so back to my Mandevilla I just bought… If I let it enjoy the outrageous heat of Summer, and collect the seeds (and “sow a few” do you think the seeds will lie dormant until the spring? That is what the others have begun to do.

    Hi Debbie
    My guess is that being a tropical plant, mandevilla seeds will not survive the winter cold in Nebraska. If you do get a seed pod, you would have to sow it indoors in a container.
    Perhaps someone out there has had some experience with this.

  • David

    Re-potting mandevilla
    Re-potting Question: The pot we got with our plant is pretty small and we’re gonna be upsizing it. I haven’t seen any mention of it yet on this site but would it be adviseable to put a layer of rock at the bottom to support drainage or no?
    Zone 5.

    Hi David
    I don’t know why that never came up. Yes, its a good idea to put a layer of rock at the bottom. I do that not only for drainage but also to weight down the pot so that it doesn’t topple over in a strong wind. Upsize 1-2″ larger no more.

    • David

      Adding on to my post, we were looking for the 10-20-10 combo for plant food but the best we have in our area that even comes close is 15-30-15 which is the same ratio just higher levels of each. We didn’t get it yet. The other option of course is Miracle Grow’s 20-20-20 all purpose. Thoughts

      Hi David
      The 20-20-20 is a well balanced fertilizer that works on most plants. The higher middle #(phosphorous) promotes more bloom. If your plant is healthy and growing 20-20-20 should do the trick. When you repot your mandevilla, it will not need any fertilizer as there should be enough nutrients in the soil esp. if it already contains fertilizer. Wait one month before applying any fertilizer.

  • kathy

    No blooms
    Why aren’t my mandevillas blooming? They are growing like crazy but no blooms. What can i do?

    Hi Kathy
    Mandevilla need to put on some growth before they start to bloom.. Some factors that affect bloom are not enought sun, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. Since it is growing “like crazy” it may be too much fetilizer. Not much you can do at this time but wait for the fertilizer to get used up by the plant or leach out of the soil.

  • carrie

    Yellow leaves
    I purchased a Mandivilla and started having problems with the leaves yellowing. I read on here and was told by someone at a local greenhouse that it needed to be fertilized. I got the 10-20-10 and was told to add 1tsp every 2 weeks. After adding the first tsp my plant started dying by the next morning. I have ran water through the soil to remove whatever fertilizer is left but it hasn’t seemed to help. I also have seen no signs of blooms before the yellowing started. Is there anything else I can do to bring it back? I do still have some green on it.

    Hi Carrie,
    I’m not sure what kind of fertilizer you used. Most granules need to be diluted in water. Usually the package will have directions on usage. It may take a few waterings to leach out all the fertilizer. To leach out excess fertilizer, water the plant thoroughly until it starts to drain out of the bottom wait 30-60 minutes and then water again.

  • 7-7-09 I purchased a “Crimson” Mandevella vine plant on May 5 and the plant has grown maybe 3 inches in height and shows NO indication of turning into a vine. My husband went out and purchased a beautiful trellis for it for 80 dollars and —NO VINE—feeding ith the prescribed time released food, keeping it in full sun and following all the directions. Please HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you .

    It’s off to a slow start. If it was replanted, it needs time to get acclimated making more roots instead of vines. If you had cooler summer that may have an affect on the growth rate. Mandevilla grow best in full sun and warm weather (80’sF). It will take off when it decides to vine.

  • Sue

    Hi. Im a first time gardener. And I just bought a mandeville for the first time. its mid july. so I just took it out of its planter from the store. It looks healthy and lush. I’ve sprayed some bug repellant on it. Now how often should I water it. If its already healthy? Every night or only 3 times a week?

    Hi Sue
    Water your mandevilla when the top 2 inches of the soil is dry. The best way to test the soil is to insert your finger into the soil up to your knuckle. If it feels dry then water. It’s better to water in the morning. Give it some fertilizer every two weeks. There is no set timing for watering. Enjoy your mandevilla.

  • Michele H

    We have small dark dots on the buds and leaves of two of our Mandeville plants. The buds die and the leaves shrival. We can’t see any movement with the black dots. What are these and how do we save our plants?
    Thanks :)
    Michele

    Could be a leaf spot caused by a bacteria or fungus. Avoid getting the flowers/leaves wet.

  • julie

    Hello. I am new with Mandevilla. I live in Orlando and have three (2 red and one pink) that i purchased about 2-3 months ago. It has been amazingly hot here (over 95) and these poor guys are right in the blistering heat. I have sandy soil and have been making sure to water them more due to the intense (and unusual) heat. But all growth has stopped and the leaves are yellowing. In fact, the red ones seem to be shrinking. What can I do to save them?

    HI Julie
    Can you move your mandevilla to a shady area. If not provide some shade for them to keep the plants cooler. Your mandevilla, most likely stopped blooming because of the intense heat.

  • Margie

    Hi,

    I too have a mandevilla plant and have been looking for info on toxicity for cats (I have 2 indoor) – Some sites have me terrified about having it indoors while others say it is low toxicity… What happened to your cat after it chewed up your mandevilla? Did it get sick?
    Thanks in advance.

    Hi Margie
    Although it’s not listed on Cat Fanciers’ Ass. or ASPCA as a poisonous plant, it has been mentioned several times on other sites as most parts of the plant being poisonous. It may not kill the cat but the white milky substance can make them sick depending on how much they ingest.
    I do not have a cat. The person asking had one.

  • Jim

    I was just reading over the comments on here and was really surprised by the number of people having problems with their mandevillas. Some observations: the pink is the strongest of the types – reds and whites don’t seem to be as vigorous. For two years I’ve grown mine on either side of the entrance to my front porch – eastern exposure – full sun until around noon. On one side there is a downspout from the rain gutters – that plant gets lots of water and, while it has good drainage, the ground stays wet – IT DOES GREAT! The other plant (while it still does well) is only about 1/2 to 2/3 the size – I try to keep it watered every few days. I don’t try to save mine when the cold weather comes here in North Carolina – they are cheap enough to replace each year. I think that since mine are never really stressed may be the reason I never have bug issues.

    I do have a question however – in a tropical setting without a dry season – do these plants flower 12 months a year?

    Hi Jim
    I’m not sure if mandevilla would bloom continually throughout the year. Most plants will bloom heavily at a certain time of year and then bloom less, (if at all) the rest of the season.

  • Joanne

    This is such an interesting site, thank you. Was just checking on winterizing our four plants. One is over ten years old (wish I could send you a picture of it, breathtaking). They do need to be fed every two weeks during the spring and summer. We have just been playing it by ear, and after reading all this advice, found out we were doing things just right.

    Thanks for your input. You’re a natural green thumb!

  • Virginia Frantz

    I have two giant Crimson Mandevillas which have been spectacular. I would love to try to winter them, preferably in the dormant stage because of room. However my plant says “annual”. Does this mean that some are annual and some perennial and I would not be able to winter them? I have tried to winter them before but my plants were rather disappointing the following year and bloomed sparsely. I have decided after reading this site, that I had not been trimming them enough when the new growth started. Some said they were inexpensive enough to buy each spring, but all the plants I find are at least $20 but they are thriving blooming plants that I keep in pots all summer. .

    Hi Virginia
    Mandevillas are considered annuals in cold regions where they cannot tolerate freezing temperatures but you can still winter them over inside. See the winterize mandevilla article. I think the trick to get them to bloom more is to fertilize with a bloom boost (higher middle #) during the growing season.

  • Marge Brown

    I have two mandevilla plants. All summer they bloomed beautifully and were stunning. I waited too long to bring them inside and the flowers drooped and the leaves are all dry and brittle. I live in Minnesota. I have it in a sunny window, but don’t know weather to water it for the winter and hope it survives or cut it back and leave it dry for the winter. Or cut it back and water it for the winter and hope for the best in the spring. Help!!

    Hi Marge
    Well I guess you will have to make a decision, either store it dormant or try to get it to grow. The same thing happened to me this year. My mandevilla vines have lost all their leaves. I cut it back to 6 inches and will store it in the basement for the winter. I will check on the soil occasionally to make sure it doesn’t dry out. Hopefully, it will come back next spring. I didn’t want to force new growth by keeping it in a sunny window because the new growth will most likely be weak and spindly. In addition, I have too many plants to store indoors for the winter.

  • vilasini

    i live in kerala,india i have a mandeville and want to know how to care the plant in our hot & humid weather in this part .can it be put on ground or should it be in pots only? how much sun /or should it be in shade/

    Hi Vilasini
    Mandevilla is a tropical plant and I assume your climate is tropical. It will do well in your part of the world. You can plant it in the ground in full to part sun. Make sure the soil drains well and it gets plenty of water during the hot season. If your temperatures gets really hot them plant it in semi-shade.

  • kristy

    hi I live in new hampshire and bought a mandeville, no problems it was beautiful but because of the cold winters and the ground freezing. will the plant come back? maybe if covered with hay r brought in the house?

    Hi Kristy
    See http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla, it should give you the info you’re looking for.

  • Are there any known allergies to this plant? Since transplanting the Dipladenia to bring it inside for the winter, I have broken out on my hands and arms, similar to poison.

    Hi Vivian
    The sap can also be a skin irritant. All parts of the plant are considered poisonous when eaten. (www.ces.ncsu.edu)

  • Jenny

    I am following up to the message I sent in last night. I found webbing on my plant this morning; it wasn’t there before. I’m guessing spider mites. What is the best way to get rid of them and keep them from spreading to my other plants or coming back? I have placed this plant back outside for the time being since the temps are back in the 50’s here. Thanks again for your help!

    Hi Jenny
    Spider mites can be a problem when the plant is indoors and the air is dry.
    To test for spider mites, take a white sheet of paper, place it on the underside side of the leaves and tap on the leaf. If you see tiny pindots moving on the paper then you have spider mites.

  • Amanda

    I puchased two mandavilles last summer and planted them in hanging pots. They both thrived all summer long. I brought them in for the winter and left them in their hanging pots in front of two windows so they would get plenty of sun. I watered them when the soil was dry and gave them plant food once a month. They died slowly but surly. They just dried up and no amount of water I gave them would help. I dont know what I did wrong… please help.

    Hi Amanda
    During the winter, when temperatures are cool and there is less sunlight, mandevilla require less water and no fertilizer. It’s difficult to say what happened to your plants. Perhaps your plants had too much of a good thing- water. Too much water will rot the roots and kill the plant.

  • Julie

    I purchased a beautiful-looking Mandevilla two days ago in Wisconsin. Based on recommendations, I transplanted it right away. In addition, I left it outside in a day-time temperature of about 60-65 degrees F and left it in the garage in an overnight temperature of about 40 degrees F. Now the flowers seem to be wrapping back toward the stem and are a little darker and drying around the edges. Because of this, I have brought it into the basement for a temperature of about 60 degrees or higher. Is the plant in shock, possibly from transplanting or cold? Will it recover?

    Also, for the first time, I’m trying a self-watering pot with this plant. Do these pots work, or do they cause problems with too much water at the roots? Please let me know. I would appreciate any advise you could offer. Thank you.

    Hi Julie
    The mandevilla may be reacting to repotting but will recover. You were doing everything right except for placing it in the basement. It needs sunlight. The flowers may be turning darker from the cooler temps. If you plan on growing the plant outside, slowly acclimate it to the new environment by placing it outside on a warm days (70) so that it can get a few hours of bright sun exposure; then when the weather warms up, it will be ready to stay outside.
    I have not tried the self-watering pots. Perhaps someone out there has some info on them.

  • Jan W.

    mandevilla care
    I bought a mandevilla several days ago and have just repotted it to a larger pot. I used a “regular” Calloways potting soil, is this okay? I live in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area. I am thinking that my mandevilla will need morning sun, not afternoon sun, is that correct? Any assistance would be appreciated. Could you please email me back? Thanks.

    Hi Jan
    As long as the soil drains well, then it should be ok. The plant may sulk a little after transplanting but give it a few days and it should perk up again. Morning sun may be better, since the afternoon sun can be very hot in Texas. Mandevillas can tolerate full sun in cooler climates but part shade is better in warmer areas. Provide a trellis for it to climb up on. Enjoy your plant.

  • Jerrica

    I just got a brand new Mandevilla for Mother’s day and I just had a question about over watering. I have never had one before so I dont want it to die. How much water is too much? I live in San Antonio so its very Humid and the dirt seems to dry out really fast at the end of the day. Should I water it more when it’s like that or just wait to water it the next day or even the next week? When you do water it, How much water should I put in the pot? I really like it and want to make sure I do everything to keep it alive. Thank you.

    Hi Jerrica
    You cannot water a plant on a schedule. Water more often when its hot and dry outdoors and less in a wet season. When the top 2 inches of soil are dry water the plant. Make sure you water thoroughly-that is pour enough water so that it drains from the bottom.

  • Julie

    My son just bought me a beautiful Mandevilla in a pot which has a small trellis. I live in Illinois, and wonder if I should leave in the pot, or when the temp. doesn’t get below 50 at night, transplant in the ground. I have had it inside right now, and the blooms are falling off, but I know it isn’t getting near enough sun. Any thought’s would be much appreciated! Thanks so much! I don’t want to kill it as it is such a beautiful gift from my son!

    Hi Julie
    You can place the plant outside during the day when temperatures are in the 60’s so that it gets more sun. You can leave the plant in the pot or transplant it in a larger container if necessary. If you choose to plant it in the ground, you will have to dig it up in the fall and keep it in a pot indoors. for more wintering info see http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

  • jean coursen

    Bud drop
    I just purchase a giant crimson mandevilla plant about 3′ high. It’s beautiful but all the new buds are dropping off. Why?

    Hi Jean
    Your plant is under some kind of stress-too much water, not enough water, light, too cold etc. The first response of a plant to unfavorable conditions is to drop its flowrs.

  • Jillians

    I’m in Austin, TX. I have several mandevilla vines which I kept potted last year. I was concerned about drainage and wanted to easily overwinter them in the garage. Earlier this spring we actually planted them along the fence. The Alice DuPont is doing well, but the Sun Parasol White is looking very sickly. There’s no color change in the leaf, but it is very droopy. The leaves feel thin, frail & look dull, not glossy & leathery. Any ideas? Root rot or grubs, or just a nutrient imbalance?

    I also have 2 still in pots which had started to come back but stalled. I’m not sure if snails got the new leaves or the cat was peeing in the pots… Actually I’m pretty sure the cat was using it as a litter box. I’ve moved them to a cat free area. They still seem to have viable roots/tubers. Can they still come back this late in the game? Should I repot or top dress the soil? I can live with a lack of blooms if I can keep them alive.

  • Aaron Flood

    This is my third summer with my Mandevilla plant, and everyone who sees it is in love with it. I live in Utah, and it has always wintered over well. I read somewhere (maybe here?) to re-pot it every second year, and I am planning on doing that, as long as it won’t shock the plant too badly this late in the season. But I also want to give bits of it to friends and neighbors for them to grow. I’ve never seen any seed pods on it, so that’s out. When I re-pot it, I plan to look for tubers, and experiment that-a-way. My question comes to propegating from shoots. Do I just snip the shoot off as close to the “main line” as possible? Or do I take some of the old wood off with it and plant that? Nothing has grown out of the soil itself, only off the original part of the plant, so that is all I have to work with, aside from if any tubers can be plaucked off.

  • Taffy

    Reading this site has made me feel much more confident in caring for my expensive special mandevillas, as well as showing me where to buy things- glad I found this!- but also I was left with a question. All the info I have gathered through the years on flowering plants tells me that removing the seed pods before they mature encourages more flowering. Is this not true with Mandevillas? I would like to try the seed pods, but not at the expense of flowering beauty.

    Hi Taffy
    You are correct. Removing the seed pods will encourage more bloom. Wait closer to the end of the season to allow some seed pods to mature.

  • Carol

    Unwind mandevilla
    I purchased a healthy pink mandevilla a few days ago. It is blooming well and has lots of new growth. It is in a 15 inch pot with a wire trellis that looks like an upside down tomato cage. The plant’s vines are wound tightly around this cage. I had planned to put this plant in the middle of a giant pot with a large climbing ladder and small plants surrounding it. Is it safe to unwind the vines from the wire cage or will it cause too much damage? If I can unwind it, should I plant it in the new pot first or unwind the vines before transplanting? This is my first mandevilla, although I have been gardening for 40 years. I fell in love with these beautiful plants when I saw them in a similar pot to the one I plan to use. I just don’t want to damage the plant, since it was fairly expensive – $26. (Oh, by the way, I’m in Indiana.)
    Thanks in advance for your advice.

    Hi carol
    Yes, with lots of patience you can carefully unwind your Mandevilla vine. Remove the “cage” and then repot the plant. It will be easier to handle during planting. You can lightly prune the tips to grow a bushier plant but don’t get carried away.

  • shirley

    I have a health mandevilla which is planted in a large pot outdoors. The vines have grown over the top of the trellis which is 3 foot high.. Is it alright to trim off the tops of the vine to keep it the size of the trellis?

    Hi Shirley
    Yes, you can trim them, but don’t get carried away or you will loose some flowers.

  • Hannah Mazo

    I purchased 2 pink mandevillas and planted them in the ground with their trellises. I live in Maryland – can I dig them up when the weather changes and put them in pots? Thanks!

    Hi Hannah
    Yes you can. see comments on http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

  • Jil

    I recently purchased a beautiful Mandevilla with bright red flowers. We transplanted it in the ground for the summer. It appears to be healthy and is actively growing up a trellis. My question is this: it is loaded with flowers, but the flowers stay closed all the time. They don’t appear to have any disease on them. It is planted facing east, so they get bright sunlight up until about 2:00, and then it is in partial shade. Could that be the issue? We live in northern Illinois, but so far this year has been hot and humdid which seems to be perfect for the plant. Also, thanks for the great winterizing tips, I did not know I would be able to keep it over the winter!

  • Gail

    My mandevilla has little mealy worms & looks like a lady bug with out the spots
    How do I treat this & with what

    Thanks Gail

    Hi Gail
    Nice to hear from you. Can you send me a picture? It sounds like you have 2 different insects on the plant.

  • Trish

    spots on the flowers
    I just got a Mandevilla a couple weeks ago. I live in Oklahoma and have lots of clay in our soil. We have had some of the flowers fall off and also have white spots on the flowers. Is this because I am watering it too much? Our weather has been in the 90’s. Could it also be from the shock of replanting?

    Hi Trish
    Are you overhead watering the plant? moisture on the flower petals can cause spots on the flowers. Best to water at the soil line. Keep in mind mandevilla will not winterover outdoors in OK. you will have to dig it up and bring it indoors.

  • Kathy

    Insects
    I have three beautiful Mandevillas that I planted at the beach in 8in by four foot pots and added white fan trellises. They are doing beautiful but one now has little black somethings and some ants. I sprayed with a solution of dish soap and Dreft and water. I just love these plants. Thanks for all the information. Since they were expensive I will try to over winter them following the advice of the three day prep and then clear plastic bags. Next year I will put more in as they are just so cheerful,and beautiful. Again thanks for the advice!

    Hi Kathy
    It’s possible that your plant has scale. Check the underside and stems of the plant. Is there are clear, sticky stuff on the leaf surface? that is honeydew produced by certain insects including scale.
    For additional info on saving your Mandevilla see http://hortchat.com/info/winterize-mandevilla

  • Trimming
    i purchased 2 mandevillas this past spring for my apartment patio. i inserted bamboo arches into each one and the vines really twisted around them. i want to take out the bamboo supports and let the plants “catch onto” the balcony railings. problem is, i would need to majorly trim them in order to untangled and remove the supports.
    is this a bad idea to do this now, in the middle of july? will it really affect them or harm them?

    Hi Deborah
    You can trim them or untangle your mandevilla. It will probably set the plant back a bit and delay blooming for a few weeks but will not harm the plant.

  • Yellow leaves
    I have two pink mandevillas in large pots which were doing very well since the beginning of June and now, all of a sudden they have lots of yellowing leaves. The pots have good drainage but it has been extremely hot here in Illinois for the past two weeks. Can yellowing leaves be from the heat? The plants are on a rooftop deck and get sun most of the day.

    Hi Linda
    You don’t mention watering. Is it getting enough water during the hot spell? Yellow leaves are a response to stressful condition and the hot weather can be a major factor. If you can move the plant to a slightly shaded area until the weather cools.

  • Lisa

    Not blooming
    I purchased a Mandevilla vine about 6 weeks ago, great looking plant but no blooms when i bought it. I repotted in a hanging planter on my back patio, here in Central Florida. The plant looks great, very healthy and some new growth, but no blooms still!! Am i doing something wrong? It gets full sun. Thanks for help!

    Hi Lisa
    Because Mandevillas bloom on new growth, they need to put on good healthy growth in order to initiate blooming. Try a bloom boost or a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) every two weeks.

  • WILLIAM

    Exposure
    Live in sunnier part of San Francisco. Bought a gallon Sun Parasol. Want to plant it in a ten gallon ceramic container on the balcony facing direct west with sun noon till sunset. However will also get substantial wind and some light fog moisture in evenings. Will it survive in such exposure and conditions or should I plant it on trellis onnorthern end of deck in large pot with less sun.

    Hi William
    Mandevilla like full sun to bloom best, so I think the west exposure will be better. Make sure the trellis is sturdy enough to endure the wind.

  • Denise

    I bought 2 mandevillas a couple of months ago. They were the same size, everything. One has taken off, colorful, vibrant looking, doing great. The other one is withered looking, may not make it. What could have happened?

    Hi Denise
    Its difficult to say what happened. If the plant is withered and the soil is wet, then it might have been overwatered and there is a problem with the root system.

  • Kornel

    I have a real healthy one gallon Giant Sun Parasol I want to plant permanent in a container in sheltered spot against an eight foot trellis in San Francisco with afternoon sun temps 60-70’s and no harsh winter temps. No frost. Zone 10. Is a ten gallon container too big? Thanks.

    Hi Kornel
    The ten gallon container should give it lots of room to grow and allow stability on a windy day.

  • Cindy S.

    Leaf spot disease
    I have Mandevilla plants in large pots on each side of my spa on the pool decking. I have noticed the leaves yellowing with black spots. Do I have aphids or what could be causing this?

    Hi Cindy
    Its possible that your mandevilla has a leaf spot disease caused by a fungus (Cercospera). Leaves will turn yellow with brown/black spots and drop. This usually occurs during the warm and wet months of the summer and spreads when the leaves are wet overnight. Remove all infected leaves and spray with a fungicide to keep it from spreading. Avoid splashing water on the leaves as that can also help spread the disease.

  • Billie

    Overwatering
    I had three mandivillas, but now only two. They all seem to be doing the same thing. They were thriving before the hot temps (90-100). They are well watered, but they begin with yellow and browning leaves, and this seems to travel up the plant all the way to all of the new growth. Eventually, they die. They are all near a sprinkler. Could they be getting too much water?
    Thanks,
    Billie

    Hi Billie
    It sounds like too much water. Mandevilla leaves will turn yellow, then brown and drop off. Too much water will also cause root rot which will kill the plant. Let the plant dry between watering and move it away from the sprinkler. Hopefully, it will recover.

  • Heather

    I have two mandevillas in the containers they came in from the nursery. One is doing ok, although no blooms (from reading all the posts, I need to add more of the middle number fertilizer to it)…the other is all brown. I was wondering if the all brown one can be saved, or if I should toss it and buy a new one? Can I cut it all the way back, put it in a cool, dark location and hope for better next year? Any advice would help. It was very hot and dry here for several weeks. I tried to keep it watered, probably did not give it enough fertilizer, but I tried.
    Thank you!

    Hi Heather
    There is a good chance that it died from either too much water or not enough water. I would leave the mandevilla and see if it will sends out some new growth and then you can trim away any dead stems. You’ll have to adjust your watering practice. I suspect that it was too dry and if you fertilized the plant that could also be part of the problem. Your brown plant doesn’t need any fertilizer at this time. Feed your plant only when it is actively growing (putting on new leaves). Hoepfully, it will recover.

  • Mar

    We have 2 pink Mandavillas (2 years old) and both were healthy until 2 weeks ago. I live in Northern California- we noticed a “white dust subtance” on the leaves, eventually turning into tiny black dots with a sticky “tar like” subtance. It’s killing our leaves and flowers. Please help!

    Hi Mar
    You may have more than one problem on the plant. The white dust sounds like powdery mildew, the stick “tar like” substance may be honeydew with sooty mold on it-possibly caused by scale. Look under the leaves and on the stems to see if there are small bumps on the surface that can be scrapped off.

  • Alma

    I have a Crimson Mandevilla that has vined onto a trellis and a tree. It it flowering nicely on the new growth that is along the tree, but I would like to move the plant to a new location. Is it safe to do any trimming at this time?

    Hi Alma
    Best time to prune is in October after bloom. Don’t cut back more than 1/2 of the plant up to the hard wood. Because mandevilla blooms on last year’s growth, you want to leave some current season’s growth so that they bloom next year. You can trim it now but you will cut off the blooms and delay bloom for this season.

  • Larry

    I have been growing mandevilla successfully for several years, even making new plants via cuttings. I have only light pink and a darker, brighter pink varieties. I would like to grow the white and yellow varieties but I’m not able to find them locally. Can anyone provide a source for SEEDS of mandevilla?
    Thanks in advance.

  • Sunny

    Larry, I’m curious. How are you doing the cuttings? I’ve tried a few times and it never worked.

    Hi Sunny
    See http://hortchat.com/info/propagate-mandevilla. For ideas. Kris

  • Dianne

    Save mandevilla?
    I offered to help a friend to see if I could save her mandevilla which she had in a pot here in the Portland Oregon area. She brought me a four foot vine of dead twiggy branches!! Now, we don’t know for sure it’s dead so I cut it all back & put the rootball in a bucket of water for now. It’s pushing 100 degrees here so I wanted to give it something! Any suggestions on saving this $40 vine?

    Hi Dianne
    You should plant the vine in well-drained soil and if the roots are alive, they will eventually send out new growth. Place it in the shaded area until you see new shoots and then move it to a sunny spot.

  • Larry

    Propagate mandevilla tip
    To make cuttings I use “kys-cubes” which you may be able to get from a nursery or greenhouse operation. Keep them wet and mist them often, out of direct sunlight. They’re a little slow to root. If trying in cool or cold weather bottom heat will help.

    Sunny, concerning cuttings, I forgot to say that I take a terminal stem with about 3/4 inch below a pair of leaves. Insert the piece into the cube so that the leaves just barely wedge into the cube, which helps to stabilize it. Also, the use of a rooting hormone will help.

    Thanks for the additional info on Propagating mandevilla.

  • Lori

    I have 2 giant white parasole mandevilla’s and I would like to propagate them from cuttings. I just read in one of the replies above (from Larry) that he starts his cuttings in something called kys-cubes. What are those, and where can I get them?

Leave a Reply

 

 

 

You can use these HTML tags

<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>