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Mandevilla

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Mandevilla tips and care

Mandevilla belongs to a large family that also includes plants that were formerly known as Dipladenia. It was named after a British diplomat/gardener Henry Mandeville. This exotic plant bears trumpet shaped flowers shades of pink, yellow and white (some fragrant) on twining vines with puckered, oval leaves.

mandevilla

This tropical plant is hardy (depending on cultivars) in zones 9-11 and therefore is for the most part of the U.S. treated as a houseplant. It is grown outdoors for the summer and in cold weather taken indoors to endure the winter.

Care
Outdoors: Mandevilla is cold sensitive and can be taken outdoors when the danger of frost has passed and overnight temperatures reach over 50ºF. It likes full sun to part shade in the summer and a deep rich, well-drained soil. It will also need a trellis to support its long trailing vines. Provide plenty of water during the hot days of summer. To keep a healthy blooming plant, feed it every other week with a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) in the spring and summer. In order to maintain the tangled growth during the season, pinch off new shoot tips which will produce a bushier plant. Trimming will not reduce flowering as it blooms on new growth. Use the cuttings to make new plants.

Propagation
It can be started from seed at temperatures of 70-80ºF. A faster way is to take cuttings in the spring and summer which will easily root and develop new plants.

Watch out for mealybugs, scales, whitefllies and red spider mites.

Winterover mandevilla

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34 Comments on Mandevilla»

  1. My son gave his wife and I each a Mandeville for Mothers day. They have been beautiful all summer. Now mine still has healthy dark green leaves but few blossums but hers looks like it is wilting and dying. We are novices to flower gardening. We live in WV. Have plants in big pots on deck thinking to bring them in for winter.But when , do we cut them back? and can anything be done for hers with leaves looking wilted.

    With all things being equal from the time you received the plants, you ladies need to compare notes and figure out what one is doing different from the other. It can be a cultural practice such as overwatering, underwatering or not enough sun. A fertilizer such as 10-20-10 every two weeks will promote blooming. As the fall season approaches, fertilize lightly, only a few times before the cold weather sets in. You really don’t want too much new growth. Keep the plant outdoors as long as possible but when night temperatures get below 45 degrees, it is time to bring them indoors. To help manage the long vines, cut the plant back when you bring it indoors to as much as 12 inches from the soil line. You will get some new growth indoors and that should be pruned off in early spring. Mandevillas bloom on new growth in the summer so you don’t have to worry about cutting too much off.

    Comment by Ruth King — 8/28/2005 @ 9:12 am

  2. My 20-mo. old son has a habit of picking the flowers of my mother’s Mandevilla vine and eating them. Are they poisonous? We try to get them away from him when we can, but he is so quick to grab and eat them that we don’t always catch him right away.

    University of North Carolina suspects all parts to be poisonous. (www.ces.ncsu.edu) The milky latex can also be a skin irritant.

    Comment by Kristen — 9/28/2005 @ 7:02 pm

  3. What are the white, flying bugs that look kind of like aphids? Are they aphids and how do I get rid of them? Also, what kind of damage do they do to Mandevillas? Thank you, Christa

    If they fly when the plant is disturbed then it sounds like white fly. They can be difficult to control. Use insecticidal soap spray and be sure to spray the underside of the leaves as that’s where they lay their eggs. To control spray every 5-7 days for about 2 weeks. It should take care of the adults and hatching eggs. If insecticidal soap doesn’t do the job try a pyrethroid type insecticide and follow manufacturers direction as to its use.

    Comment by Christa — 11/14/2005 @ 1:37 pm

  4. I just got a mandevilla this summer and i put it inside last month. First it was pretty and healthy but now its leaves are getting brown by the ends and then got brown spots and then drop. I want to know if it is a fungus or I am overwatering. I water it every week and I leave some water in the botton of the plant.

    Keep your Mandevilla on the dry side and do not leave any standing water, it will invite problems like root rot. It will drop leaves with cooler temperatures, dry air and less light. You can let the plant go dormant by triming it, giving it minimal water (from which it will drop all its leaves) and keeping it in a cool place (basement, cellar). It will regrow in all its glory next spring.

    Comment by Aidee — 11/15/2005 @ 6:51 pm

  5. Information regarding rooting of mandevilla cuttings

    Stem cutting from mandevilla can be taken in the spring. Choose side shoots 2-3 inches long and insert in sandy peat soil. Keep cutting moist(not too wet)and supply extra humidity with a plastic bag or propagating case until roots form then plant in 3″ pots. Pinch back new growth to promote side shoots and bushier plants.

    Comment by Dana — 11/23/2005 @ 8:47 am

  6. I did not cut back the plant when I brought in for winter. Now getting new tbut have white residue & sticky. Help! Do I cut back Now?
    Also have used inecticidal soap & washed leaves with alcohol

    You may have mealybugs-white cottony “stuff” in leaf axils that also secrete honeydew (the sticky stuff). You can cut your mandevilla back as it will help control the insect. Continue your treatment of alcohol dip and insecticidal soap for at least 3 weeks even if you don’t see the insect. For more info

    Comment by jean m — 2/1/2006 @ 9:38 am

  7. Regarding the Mandevilla - I live in Dana Point, California right on the coast. It’s temperate here and never drops below 50 degrees. Still, my plant leaves are getting sparse and yellow. What should I do?

    Some of the reason for yellowing leaves & leaf drop is the possibility of winter dormancy-the cooler outdoor temperatures,shorter days will stop growth causing seasonal shedding. By this time of year it should show signs of new growth. Drought stress and underfertilization can also cause yellowing/leaf drop. Also check for insects and webbing on the plant, which is a sign a spider mites infestation. At this point I would trim back the plant, wait for signs of new green growth and then fertilize.

    Comment by Diane Alcorn — 3/12/2006 @ 4:47 pm

  8. We were going to plant a clematis where our Mandevilla was last year and when we started digging we found the bulbs from the Mandevilla. IT IS HUGE and very healthy. What should we do with the bulb. I am in Atl, GA climate. This plant was beautiful last year.

    Do you want to keep your Mandevilla? It sounds as if it is healthy and will grow again. “Even if you prune your mandevilla to the ground it will come back and bloom this summer on shoots from the base of the plant.” clemson.edu. Find a new home for the clematis.

    Comment by Brenda Basey — 4/17/2006 @ 9:48 am

  9. I know this is going to strike you as funny but my husband has a goat that keeps eating the ends of my mandevilla vine. what can I do to stop this? (short of shooting the goat)

    I read about a new Australian research that produced a product from tiger feces which is effective on wild goats, if you can stand the smell. I don’t know if the product is out on the market yet. My suggestion would be to try a product called Liquid fence-it seems to work for deer and other small animals. It also has an unpleasant smell. You can also try a hot spray mix: use 2-3 cloves garlic, 3-4 hot red peppers (Habaneras, serrano) grind up in a blender and mix in a gallon of water along with a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Spray on the tips and see if the goat stays away. Goats seem to eat everything so they just might like the spicy mix.

    Comment by dawn — 4/24/2006 @ 2:24 pm

  10. need advice, I sucessfully winterized my 2 mandavilla’s thru the winter by bringing indoors and cutting back, the plant grew lovely new green leaves an lots of new shoots, this week, May 6 I put the plant back outside for only 1 day, watered and fertilized, and only 1 day later the leaves are turning brown. Is it maybe because the temp went down to about 42 degrees last night. would that be the reason or should I have not fertilized yet?
    should I bring it back inside until warmer, can I save my plant?Toronto, Canada

    The temperature can do that. Wait till night temps are 50 degrees. Also your plant needs to be eased to the outdoors in a shaded area, for a few hours a day increasing each day. It’s been indoors for a long time in much lower light exposure . Too much sun will scorch your new leaves, give them time to toughen up. You can trim back the brown areas and it will regrow even bushier.

    Comment by Pauline — 5/8/2006 @ 12:32 pm

  11. I have a new arbor and would love to plant mandevilla on either side. Due to limited space, I am wondering if I can plant them in a ‘window box’ container which is about 4″ deep alongside each side of the arbor. Suggestions?

    A 4 inch depth may not be deep enough to accomidate the root system. I would suggest at least 8-12 inches deep. Planting along the arbor is a great idea gives them room to vine.

    Comment by Karen H — 5/25/2006 @ 3:19 pm

  12. My Mandavilla’s vine is growing well, but the mature leaves on the plant are browning and dying from the leave’s vein outward to the leave’s edges. I wouldn’t call it “yellowing” as I’ve seen in over-watering of other plants, but a dry, dying brown leaf. Is this not enough water? The plant is planted in the ground in a good sunny spot. I don’t want to lose my new Mandevilla - it’s beautiful!

    The mature leaves that are browning can be going through an aging process and dying back. As long as the exterior new foliage is growing, I don’t think there is anything to worry about.

    Comment by P. Ward — 5/31/2006 @ 8:31 am

  13. I am a novice at gardening. I have just taken it up but I love it! The flowers make me happy! I bought 2 Mandevilles to climb my posts in my front garden. They came tied to sticks. Do I take the sticks out now that I have planted them?

    The sticks are there to support the plant as it starts to vine. Gently encourage your mandevilla to twine around the post and as they do, remove the sticks.

    Comment by Jean Russell — 6/5/2006 @ 3:09 pm

  14. My mandevilla has tiny ants all over the leaves and the blooms and also yellow stuff, kind of looks like very tiny eggs.

    It may be possible that they are aphids instead of eggs. Ants are attracted to aphids because of the honeydew they secrete.

    Comment by ann connor — 6/13/2006 @ 4:49 am

  15. Hello!

    I live in East Central PA and have just received a Mandevilla vine for a housewarming gift. Sadly, I am not very skilled in keeping plants alive. When we received the plant it had beautiful pink flowers and what looked to be buds ready to open. In a week’s time, all the flowers have wilted and fallen off. The vines are green and look healthy. The plant is still in the pot it came in. Also, there is no evidence of insects at this time. How do I keep this plant alive, keeping in mind that I once killed a cactus!!!!
    Any tips for caring for this plant would be appreciated!!
    Thanks, Lisa

    Hi Lisa,
    Sometimes the shock of a new environment can cause the flowers to wilt, even leaves to fall off. If the plant looks healthy place it outdoors in a shady area so it can enjoy the last part of summer. It should perk up and start to bloom again. They don’t like soggy soil so don’t overwater. Allow the plant to dry between watering. Now, when the temperatures get below 50F, move it back indoors for the winter. Indoors, mandevillas like bright indirect light (filtered by a curtain) and temperatures 60-65 at night and over 70 during the day. See the directions above for how to keep your mandevilla during the winter months.

    Comment by Lisa — 8/15/2006 @ 10:31 pm

  16. My mandevillahas lots of yellow leaves on the lower mature vines. It is outside in partial shade and gets all the Florida thunderstorms…sun after 2 pm! This began immediately after purchase and repotting..It is growing great but leaf loss is increasing..

    Barring insect infestation, yellowing older leaves can be a respose to stress, such as overwatering, lack of fertilizer(nitrogen) or the plant is just shedding some of its old leaves. In your case, my guess is that the plant is responding to the new environment and transplant shock. The older yellowing leaves can also indicate lack of nitrogen. At this point, I would give the plant time to readjust to the new environment. Give it a light dose(1/2 ) of fertilizer (8-12-12 or even a 10-10-10) to give it a boost. You can fertilize lightly every two weeks until mid- Sept to envigorate your plant before winter. Be sure that the soil is well drained, not water logged.

    Comment by Barbara — 8/20/2006 @ 8:37 am

  17. I also have mandevillas that are turning brown and dying. I have already lost two this summer and two more that are dying. The leaves turn brown mostly on the tips and outer edges first then move to the whole leaf. Some of the flower buds also turn brown. They also have long shoots with no leaves or flowers. They have done well in past years.

    If the weather has been hot in your area brown edges on the leaves can be caused by hot,dry air, or sun scorch. In additon browning leaves can be an indicator of underwatering especially if the mandevillas are growing in a container. Hot weather will require watering for as much 3 times a week to to keep the plant from drying out . Be sure to water enough and let the water drain out-don’t allow your plant to sit in water or you will have other problems (root rot). You may also want to give it a dose of fertilizer (8-12-12) to boost it up for the upcoming winter. Brown leaves can also be pest or disease related.

    Tonya
    Never had a problem with my mandevilla before but we have had several days around 95F (gets afternoon sun) so I increased my watering to everyday instead of every other and now the unopened buds are falling off. Is it too much heat/sun or too much water?

    It’s suffering from too much heat. The increased watering in hot weather is fine as long as it drains well and the pot is not sitting in water. If your mandevilla is in a container, move it to a shaded spot until the heat subsides.

    Comment by Sherry — 8/21/2006 @ 10:32 pm

  18. I just received a mandevilla and when do you re pot and what size pot to use. The pot that it came in is small and it looks root bound

    The general rule is to replant to a pot that is 1-2 inches larger. If the roots are encircled , unwind the roots, trim away any dead roots and repot. If you live in a cooler climate you will have to bring it in for the winter.

    Comment by Cheryl — 8/24/2006 @ 6:49 pm

  19. I am trying to find some photos of a Mandevilla. We have a vine with large red flowers and have been told it is a Mandevilla but the only info I can find tells me the Mandevilla is pink or white. Please help

    There is a cultivar of Mandevilla sanderi ( syn. Dipladenia sanderi ) called Scarlet Pimpernel that produces red flowers. The foliage is a smooth, glossy green color.

    Comment by A.E.Bentley — 10/12/2006 @ 2:20 am

  20. I have a question on flowering of the mandevilla. This is my third year with the plant, I have done everything that you suggested when it comes to winter storage and fertilizing. I live in Ontario, Canada and wanted to know if there is any way to speed up the flowering. I know the flowers come from the heat. It seems like my flowers really on come in August-September I was wondering is there any way to get flowering going earlier… say late June?
    Thanks Paul

    Because Mandevillas bloom on new growth, they need to put on good healthy growth early in the season in order to initiate blooming. Janet Carson Extension adviser suggests that some Mandevilla are slow to start when they are rootbound from last years growth. You may need to replant it into a larger container or at least replace half of the existing soil and trim back the roots. In addition, cut back the plant by 1/3-1/2 in Feb/March which will stimulate new healthy growth fit for blooming. Keep in mind weak, stindly growth will produce less flowers. Provide full sun and fertilze like you have been. Hopefully, this will jumpstart to an earlier bloom.

    Comment by Paul Gardner — 2/18/2007 @ 5:52 pm

  21. I had inquired about a beautiful Mandevillea and was told that Epson salt was scratched in the soil that made it look so pretty. I was wondering if you heard anything about this trick?

    The use of epsom salt is an old time trick used on many blooming plants (roses). It contains magnesium and sulfur, two micronutrients essential for flowering plants. Plants that lack magnesium will develop curling, yellow leaves with green veins and stunted growth and sulfur lowers the soil ph. If your soil is lacking these elements then it can be of some use but if you fertilize you plants with a well balanced fertilizer that includes these micronutrients then chances are the plant is getting what it needs. According to Epsom salt council.org it “helps seeds germinate , makes plants grow bushier, produces more flowers, increases chlorophyll production and improves phosphorus and nitrogen uptake .” You might want to try it and see if it makes a difference.

    Comment by Renee Barry — 4/26/2007 @ 2:11 pm

  22. We received a mandevilla last summer, put it in the ground at our NJ home, and watched it bloom prolifically. We brought it inside in the fall, and it sent up new shoots about February. After the last frost, we moved it to the same outdoor spot it was in last year. Though it has grown well since then, it hasn’t bloomed. Please advise. JS

    Have you been fertilizing the plant? During the growing season you should feed it with a 10-20-10 (high phosphorous)fertilizer every two weeks. If it gets too much nitrogen (1st #) then it will produce lots of leaves and no flowers.

    Jeanette Johnson
    My mandevilla appears to be growing healthy and happy. I have it in a sunny location, out doors. I am feeding it a liquid feed three times per week, Miracle Grow All Purpose 24-8-16. I am getting no flowers. How come?

    You are feeding it too much nitrogen (first #) therefore you are getting leaves and no flowers. Try a bloom boost or a high phosphorus fertilizer (10-20-10) every two weeks.

    Comment by Joel Studebkaer — 7/20/2007 @ 5:30 pm

  23. I have heard you can pick off part of the Mandavilla and start new ones but I have tried this and in a day or two they are dead. What am I doing wrong? I have about 20 planted on my retaining wall and they are beautiful growing down the wall but I have to buy new ones every year as all do not come back after winter. It is too hard digging them up out of the wall to take them inside. I would like to start new ones from the existing ones to fill in the spaces.

    The best time to propagate mandevilla is in the spring but cuttings can also be taken in summer/fall. Take 2-3 ” tip or side shoot cuttings that have firm growth(not new light green growth) remove all but 2 top leaves. Dip the cuttings in rooting hormone and place in sandy peat soil mix. Keep moist and maintain humidity by placing cuttings in a plastic bag (opening periodically to release excess moisture). Keep in shaded area, out of direct sunlight. It may take 20-70 days to root.

    Comment by Sandra — 7/21/2007 @ 2:45 pm

  24. I am interested in purchasing mandevilla for my daughter who lives in Phoenix. She needs vining container plants to place in an area between her house and the cement block fence. The area doesn’t get direct sun until late afternoon, evening. Would this be a wise choice for the climate and growing area?

    As far as hardiness, mandevilla is hardy in zone 9-11, Phoenix is in zone 9 so that should be ok. Cover the plant when temperatures drop below 45 for a prolonged period. Even if a frost damages the plant, it will grow back from the roots. It needs a half day of direct sun in order to bloom.

    Comment by Pam — 8/4/2007 @ 4:47 pm

  25. I live in Portland, Maine and would like to have a Mandevilla as a house plant - keeping it indoors in a pot year round. I have a sunny southside spot in front of two windows. The plant would be placed between the windows where there is some shading due to woodwork between the windows. Will this plant bloom all year?
    Does it require any maintenance (ie cutting back) other than watering/fertilizing as it is an indoor house plant?
    thank you

    Mandevilla is a tropical plant and needs full sun, high humidity and warm temperatures to bloom and thrive. Unless you have a greenhouse to provide this environment, it will grow little and become weak ,spindly with little if any flowers. It grows great outdoors during the summer but when brought indoors for the winter, it survives waiting only to go back to the tropical climate of summer. Many housplants are tropical and they stay as green plants because their requirement for blooming hasn’t been satisfied-I believe the same will happen with a mandevilla.

    Comment by Debbie — 8/9/2007 @ 6:50 am

  26. I am trying to start Mandevilla from seed. My question is…Does the seed come from the end of the stem at the base of the bloom ? Is it a single seed or a cluster of 8 or 10 seeds? If it is 8 or 10 tiny pin head size seeds, that have a hair-like tail, do I leave the tail on when I plant the seeds. OR…Do the seeds grow separately in a stalk-like pod ?
    Thank you, Howard

    Mandevilla seeds
    come from the center of the calyx. The seed pods are around 4-6 inches long and hang in pairs in the shape of an inverted V. When the pods dry, they will turn brown and split open exposing fluffy seeds that have fluffy aerials (like dandelions) to help disperse them. With the tail on, soak the seeds for 12 hrs. then plant and cover with soil. Keep at a temperature of 65-75. Should germinate within 30 days.

    lisa cox ( hmbcox@aol.com / )
    one of our mature plants has suddenly stopped blooming. also is growing prong looking things, like long skinny fingers. it isn’t producing any new growth and some of the leaves have small brown spots. no signs of bugs. the plant next to it is very green and blooming. got any ideas? we are in the san antonio area. thanks lisa
    thanks

    Those “prong looking things” are seed pods, which doesn’t happen very easily. They will be ripe when they turn brown. Starting seeds

    Comment by Howard Stoneman — 8/13/2007 @ 1:05 pm

  27. I live in Minnesota (zone 5) I have no basement, my garage is not heated. My outdoor Mandevilla is in a fairly large pot. I would prefer not to have it in my house over the winter in the pot it is in.
    If I want to save it for Spring, should I trim
    it down, put in a smaller pot, and just treat it like another house plant? Or, I could put it in an un-heated basement with no sunlight whatsoever. What should I do?

    You can trim it back and root prune and plant it in a smaller size pot but not too much smaller. Treat it as a houseplant keeping it in the sunniest window. If you find that it is dropping leaves and not doing so well, let it go dormant and store it in the basement. As long as it doesn’t get below freezing and completely dry out, it should survive. See winterize mandevilla

    Comment by Katie Brinker — 8/22/2007 @ 9:04 am

  28. Are Mandevilla plants poisonous for dogs if they chew on it.
    Thanks, Sharon

    Most parts of the plant are considered poisonous when eaten. The sap can also be a skin irritant.

    Linda Gray
    This is the first year I’ve had my Mandevilla plant. I pruned it back and brought it inside for the winter here in New York. My question is: is the Mandevilla plant harmful to my cat? She has taken a great interest in it, and is attempting to eat the leaves.

    Although it’s not listed on Cat Fanciers’ Ass. or ASPCA as a poisonous plant, it has been mentioned several times on other sites as most parts of the plant being poisonous. It may not kill the cat but the white milky substance can make them sick.

    Comment by Sharon — 9/18/2007 @ 5:13 am

  29. I live in Santa Monica, CA. I would like to plant Mandevilla on a trellis that is 15 feet high. It gets partial afternoon sun on the west side of the house. Will they survive in these conditions. How many plants need to cover fifteen feet spread? All the best. Steve

    Hi Steve
    Partial shade is great for Mandevilla. Be sure it has rich, well-drained, composted soil. They grow to 20+ feet high and depending on the variety Mandevilla spread 3-5 ft wide. You can pinch the plant to promote bushiness and get a wider spread. If all goes well, plan on spacing them 36-60 inches, therefore 3-5 plants should fill in your trellis.

    Comment by Steve Riva — 1/21/2008 @ 5:48 pm

  30. 2006-1
    Jen ( cal12@co.henrico.va.us / )
    Can spider mites kill or harm my plant? How often/long should I treat the plant for? Since its indoor how often should I water? You have been very helpful. Hope you and your family have a safe and enjoyable holidays.

    Some of the symptoms for spider mite infestation are tiny dots or stippling that causes a bronze, grayish mottled look. Eventually the leaves will start to turn yellow/brown along the veins and drop. In severe infections you will also see webbing on the plant. To be sure you have spider mites, take a white sheet of paper, place it on the underside side of the leaves and tap on the leaf. If you see tiny pindots moving on the paper, then you have spider mites. Isolate your plant from any others because they spread easily. To control the infestation, spray the plant with insecticidal soap every 3-5 days for two weeks. Be sure throughly spray the plant getting the underside of the leaves. If insecticidal soap does not do the trick try Neem oil. Spider mites love the hot, dry environment that is indoors during the winter. Water your mandevilla just enough to keep it from wilting-keeping it on the dry side and mist it to increase the humidity. If the infestation gets out of control, cut back the plant, place it in a cool(garage) place and let it go dormant for the winter.

    Comment by Jen — 1/24/2008 @ 4:23 pm

  31. donna
    I have brown spots on my mandevilla vine leaf especially near the veining. What is this and what do I do?

    There are two types of leaf spots diseases caused by either bacteria or fungus that can occur during the warm, wet summer months 1. Corynesporo Cassicola 2. Cereospera. The disease spreads quickly on wet foliage. Cercospora begins with small purple spots which enlarge and develop dried tan areas in the center showing an overall brown spot. The leaves turn yellow with the spots and fall off after a few days. The best control is to avoid overhead watering, sanitation - remove any infected leaves and spray with a fungicide (Zyban) . Follow label directions. This site has some photos of the diseases. http://www.velvetmandevilla.com/diseases_of_mandevilla.htm

    Comment by Donna castellani — 1/24/2008 @ 4:56 pm

  32. When should I be looking for new growth to begin, after wintering and cutting my plant back for the winter months? I repotted the plant and tried to spread out the roots not cutting any of them off. It is looking pretty dead to me.

    New growth depends on how well the plant wintered over. Did you keep it slightly moist during the winter month or totally dry? If not enough moisture, it will dry up and die. Mandevilla will respond to warmer temperatures. Water the plant and keep it moist,place it in a warm sunny window, if there is some life in it, you should see new buds in a few weeks.

    Comment by June Layton — 3/10/2008 @ 5:39 pm

  33. I’m from Saskatchewan and I am looking to purchase a mature mandevilla vine in Kingston for a friend’s 50th birthday. Does anyone know where I can buy one?

    Comment by Jan Spencer — 4/9/2008 @ 10:07 am

  34. I live in Savannah GA & did not bring my Mandevilla in for the winter. When I dug it out of its planter, it had many healthy looking tuberous roots. Can I replant the root/tubers and expect them to grow? How long to maturity?

    If the tuber is alive and is producing healthy roots it should start growing when temperatures are above 50F. Scratch the surface of the tuber to see if it’s green, that should give you an indication that it’s alive. It should send out new shoots by May or sooner and bloom this summer on the new growth.

    Comment by Ruth Cohan — 4/10/2008 @ 10:25 am

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