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Confederate Jasmine

Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) also known as Star Jasmine is not a true jasmine but referred to as one because of the fragrant jasmine-like flowers it produces. It is hardy in zones 8-10 and ubiquitous in the southern states. Cultivar Madison is hardy up to zone 7.

The twining foliage emerges with light green lance-shaped leaves and then matures to a glossy, dark green color which produces clusters of white star-shaped flowers in late spring to summer. Once established, this fast growing evergreen vine, which can grow up to 20 feet, can be trained to climb supports such as fences, pergolas, pillar and trees. With tip pinching and trimming, it can also be grown as a spreading shrub or a weed choking groundcover. Its tight growing habit also makes it an ideal candidate for topiaries, trailing containers and hanging baskets.

Confederate Jasmine in bloomConf.Jasmine seed pod

Confederate jasmine prefers fertile well-drained soil with full sun to part shade exposure. Fertilize from early spring to fall with a well balanced (NPK) fertilizer.

Pruning is important to control excessive growth and thicken the foliage. Prune straggly and tangled vine grown indoors in the fall/winter when growth has stopped and/or after blooming to promote lateral branching. Because C. jasmine blooms on last year’s growth, the best time to prune outdoor plants is after blooming (April-May). Prune away dead, cold damaged shoots in late winter after danger of frost is over. The semi-hardwood cuttings dipped in rooting hormone can be propagated in the spring/summer to produce additional plants. Cuttings exude a white milky sap which can be a skin irritant.

Indoor culture
Trachelospermum jasminoides tolerates a minimum temperature of 40 degrees and therefore in colder climates needs to be grown in a container and brought indoors for the winter. As a houseplant, they can adapt to moderate light exposure as well as neglectful watering but grow best in bright indirect light in the summer and need a minimum of 4 hours of direct sunlight in the winter. Night temperatures of 50-55 and 68-72 during the day are preferred. In the winter provide added humidity but water less.
Another cultivar, Trachelospermum asiaticum cv mandianum, Asiatic Jasmine is also a popular container plant. It has smaller, oval leaves and sweeter yellowish white flowers with a longer blooming time which can start(depending on temperatures) early to mid-winter to the summer.
Ref. Clemson.edu & Logee’s Container Plants


Buy Jasmine Plant with snow-white flowers and exotic perfume midwinter


Jasmine, Angelwing

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January 15th, 2006 | Tags: | Category: Confederate Jasmine, Garden Review, TROPICAL PLANTS | 86 comments
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86 comments to Confederate Jasmine

  • Haynie
    January 15th, 2006 at 3:02 pm · Reply

    I want to plant Confederate Jasmine instead of laying down that red bark. Does Confederate Jasmine do well in Ft. Lauderdale, (South Florida) If so when and how should I plant it?

    Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum Jasmoides) is a shrubby plant that can be used along walls,fences as well as a ground cover under trees. It does well in Florida. Plant it in acid soil in full sun for best flowering but will also grow in partial shade. Keep the soil moderately moist but not wet until plant is well established. Because it has a spreading habit space it 36-60 inches apart. The dark glossy foliage and fragrant white flowers make Confederate Jasmine an attractive ground cover to grow.

  • Kris
    January 15th, 2006 at 3:06 pm · Reply

    Wonderful forum for gardeners. We have friends in VA Beach, who have a jasmine growing near their back door, it bloomed the first year it was planted 5 years ago and never again. I have the same problem here in Northern AL. It is a white flower, so I have been calling it Confederate Jasmine. Theirs have a lot of sun and have grown to a height of 10 ft. trellised. Mine is only about 2 years old and about 3 ft. high. What are we doing wrong? The foliage looks very healthy.

    You might consider the kind of fertilizer you are using, too much nitrogen will give you nice green growth but no flowers. Try an acid loving blooming fertilizer eg: 10-20-10 (the middle number phosphorous higher than the first number(nitrogen).

  • reg. champ
    January 15th, 2006 at 7:17 pm · Reply

    I have had my 3 plants for over 20 years and they bloom all but 2 weeks every year, they are in a 10” pot and I water every 3-4 days—reg

    That is fabulous! Please share your secrets with us!

  • Barbara Baugher
    January 16th, 2006 at 7:31 am · Reply

    I’m a new gardener from SE Kansas (do not know what zone!). I’m very excited about a Star Jasmine that I just bought. It is about 5 feet. I’ve found a little information, but would really like to be successful at this, so any tips would be great!!

    Star jasmine is also known as Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides). It is hardy in zone 8-11.You are in zone 6? It likes full sun/part shade. Can grown as a vine on a trellis or ground cover. There are also upright standard specimens a result of lots of planned pruning. Likes acidic soil, moisture and humidity. You can prune it after flowering to maintain its shape. In cooler climates(North) they should be grown in tubs or containers and brought indoors for the winter.

  • Barbara Baugher
    January 16th, 2006 at 7:36 am · Reply

    Thank you for the response! I do not understand the hardy in zone 8-11, yet I am not in that zone. Is that why I have to bring it in during the winter? Could you tell me a little more about how to prune and to keep the soil acidic? Like I said, I’m really new to gardening! Thank you!

    You are probably in zone 6 (-10-0 degrees) and that means that the winter temperatures get too cold for your plant to survive. Hardiness is the ability of the plant to withstand cold temperatures. To winter over prune back any long stems to make the plant more managable . Put the plant in the brightest spot in the house, keep the soil uniformly moist and provide humidity . It will loose some of its leaves with low light and lack of humidity. The whole goal is to have the plant survive the indoor winter. To maintain acidic soil, use a fertilizer that is specifically made for acid loving plants. Fertilize in the spring when the plant start to show signs of new growth

  • Barbara Baugher
    January 16th, 2006 at 7:57 am · Reply

    Winterover indoors
    I have a star jasmine that I have brought in for the winter. It is losing most of its leaves. Do I correct this by misting, and how often should I mist. Also, I don’t have a good window, but I do have a vertical, portable plant light. Should I use that, and how much? Do I continue using acidic fertilizer through the winter, and what about using bloom boost with it? Thanx for any help, I’d really like to save this plant!

    Hi Barbara,
    Welcome back, Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is probably dropping its leaves because of low light and lack of humidity. The plant light might help as they need at least 4 hours of direct sunlight each day. Use a pebble tray filled with water to increase the humidity. Misting can help a bit but will not make a significant difference. Water it less in the winter and stop fertilizing until early spring when the plant starts growing again. Prune unsightly stems in the winter when it stops growing.

  • Jennifer
    January 16th, 2006 at 8:25 am · Reply

    2005-7-16
    I need help also with a star Jasmine! It had nice white flowers when I initally bought it 3 months ago and now there is none and it is loosing it’s leaves by the handful!!! Before the leaves fall off the tips get like a dark brown. Do they normally shed their leaves? I have it in a south window and I live in WI. What can I do??

    Brown leaf tips and edges have several causes underwatering,too hot surface, low humidity and low light, . My best suggestion is to put your plant outside in part shade for the rest of the summer. You might have to ease your plant into the new environment since it’s been in the house. Watch the watering; give it enough water(don’t let it dry out) and don’t let the roots stand in water. Your Jasmine will enjoy the vacation outdoors and be a much healthier plant, ready to endure the indoors during the winter

  • Chris
    January 16th, 2006 at 8:30 am · Reply

    Seed pod

    I have a confederate jasmine that is in the ground and 8 years old.It has made seeds that look like snap beans in the past 2 weeks.This is the first time this has happened.Do you know anything about this.

    It has reached a mature stage to produce seeds. When the seed pod is ripe it will split open and the seed is dispersed via a little parachute(like the ones on a dandelion seed).

  • Tara
    February 5th, 2006 at 9:35 am · Reply

    Powdery mildew
    Hello, I’m new to this forum, and have been searching for information on what I am experiencing with my jasmine plant. It is indoors, with lots of light, in a cold climate. It has developped a mold on all it’s leaves. It is white and powdery. Any suggestions? Also, when we water it, the water runs straight through, we were told not to soak it, but I feel like it’s not even getting a moderate watering. Thanks

    Sounds like you have powdery mildew on your leaves. It is a airborne fungus that thrives under certain environmental conditions-cool nights, high humidity. See the article on powdery mildew for treatment-baking soda or Neem Oil. I wouldn’t worry about the watering, it is better to have good drainage than roots sitting in water. The plants require less water in the winter.

  • Joan Seeger
    February 18th, 2006 at 3:53 pm · Reply

    Scale
    Great site! My jasmine is approx.6 yrs old and it winters inside next to a humidifier. Has dropped a lot of leaves which doesn’t concern me as also has 4″ new growth. What does concern me is the underside of leaves appear to have scale. Only these bumps don’t seem to be bugs. Plus are quite small. Any ideas? Thank you!

    The first sign of scale is the sticky honeydew on the leaves/stems. Underneath the bumps(which protect them from sprays) are eggs and crawlers which eventually crawl out but are difficult to detect because they are clear in color. It is at this stage, that they are vulnerable to sprays, and if treated can be controlled. Persistent spraying is important. Logee’s greenhouse recommends, Neem oil which should be used twice a month for 2 months. Use 1 oz.(2Tbsp of Neem Oil , 1 1/2 tsp dishwashing detergent to one gallon of water. Another recommendations for shiny-leaved plants only is Cedoflora, which is low in toxicity, safe and effective. You can also try to scrape off the bumps with your fingernail.

  • Jessie
    March 12th, 2006 at 9:37 pm · Reply

    I have never grown or planted anything ever. I am wanting ti do 2 trelles of Jasmine and then jasmine all over the ground in a specific area of my yard. (almost in a circular area) What other flowers do well planted with Jasmine? Also how fo I do it? Do I just dig a home and put it in? Or do I add potting soil to the area? I am so clueless to all of this I really want to do this so I am completely willing to learn from all of you! I live in Arizona Phoenix area. Thanks any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Jasmine is not a common plant to grow in AZ, because of the dry, hot weather. It requires moist well-drained soil and should be planted in the shade to do well in AZ. To maintain it as a ground cover be sure to trim the upward growing tips during the season. When planting jasmine amend the soil with compost and be sure to dig a hole larger than the pot and keep the plant at the same soil level that was in the pot…not too deep or too high.

  • Tricia
    March 16th, 2006 at 2:00 pm · Reply

    I have a jasmine vine that is strangling an oak tree in my yard. In order to save the tree we were told to cut it down (which my husband is doing as I type). I want to replant it along the fence to let it climb. How do you replant a vine??

    Dig up as much of the roots ball as you possibly can and plant it along the fence. You will have to trim the jasmine in order for it to be managable to move. In addition, trimming will also help the plant recover from the shock of root loss. After transplanting ,water it well with a plant starter such as Quick Start. It contains a rooting hormone, fertilizer & vitamins which help the plant recover faster.

  • Kaavi
    April 5th, 2006 at 4:31 am · Reply

    I have 2 jasmine plants for about 4 years it is out door in my front yard.
    I live in orlando. The problem is only the flower buds turns into black or brown in colour and they get dried and falls of even before they bloom and all the buds are small in size. I used some pest control it works for one week and every week i need to spray it i am tired of it. i don’t see any bugs. The plant is healthy it has lot of leaves and i prune it regularly and fertilize it.
    Please someone give me an idea on how to get more flowers to bloom in my front yard without dried flower buds.

    There is a blossom blight that affects Jasmine. It starts with brown spots that eventually get larger and darker. This is caused by a fungus when the weather is cool and wet. Clean away all debris at the base of the plant (sanitation) and spray with a fungicide. Don’t spray the plants directly with water.

    2006-6-1
    Mary
    Hi,
    This is my first garden so bear with me. About three weeks ago I planted 3 confederate jasmine vines along my backyard fence. I bought them from a reputable nursery. Two of them are thriving and growing like crazy already, while the third one is not doing well at all. It’s leaves are green but all the flowers are heavily drooping downward and the flowers turn brown and fall off before they open. They are all on the same water schedule and they get plenty of sun. What can I do to nurse it back to health? Please help!!

    Rapid change in temperatures such as too warm at night, too hot, and dry weather will cause bud blast in which the flowers will droop and turn brown. It is an indicator that the plant is in a stressful condition. Other factors that can cause bud blast are excess fertilizer, inadequate light exposure and overhead watering (which is what I suspect). Perhaps your stressed jasmine has been exposed to one of the factors.

  • Lynda
    April 13th, 2006 at 4:01 pm · Reply

    I have 3 star jasmine plants (approximately 4′ tall ea.) that I purchased and planted along a west wall (outside) approximately 1 month ago. They were beautiful, blooming, healthy plants and stayed that way for about 2 weeks. The leaves are slowly browning and the blooms are almost completely gone. They get plenty of water, and the weather hasn’t been too warm here in AZ…yet. I was hoping to acclimate and establish the plants before our very hot summer is upon us. Do rabbits, lizards or mice eat jasmine plants? I have petunias planted nearby and the tops have been eaten by one of the 3 mentioned. We’ve seen all in our yard at one time or another. Is there anything I can do to save these plants which look as if they are being chewed on at their base? Thank you for any advice.

    Jasmine have a difficult time growing in hot climates. They are not a common plant in AZ. Rabbits are fond of jasmine. Try spraying a repellent such as REPEL around the base of your plants. Another option is to make a cylinder of hardware cloth and place it around the trunk with the lower end inserted 1 inch below the soil surface. Kris

  • Peggy Cooper
    April 17th, 2006 at 12:31 am · Reply

    I went looking for bedding plants at a local Lowe’s (close to Memphis, TN) and walked by this wonderful smelling plant and I had to have it. There were a few areas of no leaves, but the flower looked healty. I brought it home and potted it in a patio container. I love it! But…..the leaves show some white stuff on them. I thought it could be the cholrine in the water that the store had watered the plant with. It is easly wiped off. Could my plant be diseased? How should I treat it, if you think so? Also, if you repot a plant in a potting soil that states it has feeder for 4 months and water controll ingredients, but states nothing about acidity, should I add additional acid.

    When buying plants don’t be fooled by nice looking flowers be sure the plant is healthy. The flower is short lived but a healthy plant will give you flowers throughout the season. It doesn’t sound like your plant is diseased, the white stuff may just be residue from sprays used in the greenhouse. At this point it should be fine in the soil unless it shows signs of yellowing leaves, then you can use a specially formulated fertilizer for acid loving plants.

  • Charlotte
    May 13th, 2006 at 6:18 am · Reply

    I have had the Confederate Jasmine for 5years…I probably live in one of the most powerful zones for this plant which is just north of Mobile, Al..it blooms on and off all year…it on the south wall in front of the house…it has started taking over my front porch…we have never trimmed it back..it is in bloom now…if I trim it back now will it kill it off??

    Prune your plant after it is done blooming. Cut back any weak, damaged, and overcrowded growth but don’t remove more than one third of the vine each year.

  • Mindy Kelly
    June 5th, 2006 at 4:32 am · Reply

    I am planning on planting some confederate jasmine along my fence for privacy. How far apart should I plant them and where can I find them? I live in central Fla.

    Confederate jasmine can grow 4-5 feet wide and up to 2 ft tall, therefore I would recommend you plant it 4 feet apart. Check you local nursery for availability.

    Donna ( nana431965@hotmail.com / )
    I have a 12 1/2 foot x 3 1/2 wide trellis that I would like to plant confederate jasmine on. My questions are; will it cover the trellis and how many plants would you suggest using? I live in zone 8, south Alabama. We have a 2 1/2 acre yard and trying to do something on a grand scale so as not to have a bunch of small gardens.
    It gets about 2 hours of sun in the morning and about 1 hour sun in evening.
    Ivy for sure is not the way to go as we have spent quiet a few $$ on these plants only for them to die.Please help me as this is where I would love to have my wedding(one day) !
    Thanks for any advice,

    The recommended spacing is about 36-60 inches, some plant them as close as 2 ft apart. I would plant 2 plants which should fill in nicely in no time. They are hardy in zone 8.

  • sarahparker
    June 9th, 2006 at 2:41 pm · Reply

    Propagate cuttings
    I want to know if i can cut pieces from my confederate jasmine and root them and have more vines .please let me know thank you sarah parker

    When you prune you can use the semi-hardwood cuttings taken in spring/summer to produce additional plants.
    Dip them in rooting hormone (Rootone) and place light well-drained soil or peat pots and keep moist.

    hi i just put some cuttings from my confederate jasmine and when will they have the roots on them .and should i leave them out like on the porch are should i keep them in side i got them in the pump house now .so please let me know which is the best thing to do .in side are out side .sarah parker

    I would leave them outdoors in a protected ( shaded porch) enviornment until they root. Be sure to keep the cuttings in a humid climate and moist (not wet) soil. As to how long it should take? My guess would be 6-8 weeks depending on conditions if you dip the cuttings in rooting hormone it should take less time to root.

    marion sorel
    Hi There My friend gave me some cuttings of confederate jasmine. I have them int he bucket with water and I live in Central Florida. I have them in my screen room Do I plant in potting soil int he garden or leave int he water to root. What is the best way to be sure they start growing and stay healthy. Thank you

    Best time to root Confederate jasmine is in summer/early fall. Use semi-hardwood cuttings 4-6 inches long, strip off the bottom leaves, dip the bottom 1/3 stem in rooting hormone and pot in a soil mix of peat/sand and perlite. Place pot in a plastic bag to create a greenhouse-opening periodicaly. If humid and warm weather you won’t need to keep in plastic bag. Place the cuttings in a shaded spot such as a porch or screened room. If you have extra cuttings, -some have had success rooting in water. Softwood tip cutting should be rooted in early summer. When the cuttings are rooted, let them grow until they have a good root system one season) before transplanting in garden soil.

  • Jennifer
    June 24th, 2006 at 1:10 pm · Reply

    I have a confederate jasmine outside it was very large and climbing a trellis. After the winter I was disappointed to see that it had died. It was so lush and beautiful. It turned entirely brown and twiggy. Not a green leaf anywhere. Imagine my surprise today to see new green growth and one white bloom. What do I do now???

    Good for you! Give it a well balanced fertilizer to encourage more growth and be sure it gets enough water. Watch it grow.

  • Melinda Burbage
    July 24th, 2006 at 11:33 am · Reply

    Hello,I have 6 Confederate Jasmine growing on a trellis in my back yard that have been my pride and joy every spring.This year they bloomed as usual but now one of them has lost most of its leaves and the ones that are left are a bright red!!This has never happened in the 6 years we have had them. We live in coastal North Carolina and it has been a very hot summer so far.Do you think that is the reason for what has happened and what can I do to help them??
    Thank you for any help you can give

    It is a response to stress from the hot weather. They tend to turn red later in the season.

  • K Waluk
    July 30th, 2006 at 12:24 pm · Reply

    I have two confederate jasmine plants about 2 omnths old. they are really doing well and have grown immensely since I planted them. Today I noticed that one of them has developed some fungus-looking hairy-like growth on the vines. Both are planted in full sun. Only one of them has this stuff on it. Do you know what it is and how do I get rid of it?

    It’s hard to tell what is growing on the vines. If it is white cottony “stuff” in the leaf axils and stems, it may be mealy bug and can eventually spread to the other plant. Look in the mealy bug article for treatment.

  • Melinda Kelly
    August 26th, 2006 at 8:13 pm · Reply

    I planted some jasmine next to my fence, some have climbed the fence with one shoot but should I cut them off so it will fill the fence or how do you get it to fill a fence?

    Frequent tip pinching and pruning will encourage new side shoots and thicker growth.

    Stacy T ( sartaelle@yahoo.com / )
    I live in Austin, Texas and I have 3 star Jasmine vines that I am trying to coax into covering an iron fence on my condo’s patio. The plants seem healthy in color, and bloom, however, in two years their growth has sparse – reaching maybe two high and not very dense. My neighbors next door have the same type of Star Jasmine, but planted it many years ago, and they said their vines covered the fence in two years and now they have trouble controlling it’s dense growth. I am wondering what I can do to encourage that type of growth in my own vines.

    There are all kinds of factors that can affect a plants growth rate. If your plants are healthy and just off to a slow start, fertilize them in the spring to give them a jumpstart. The amount of light your Jasmines are exposed to can be slightly different and make a difference. As long as they are healthy and blooming I wouldn’t worry. Some plant are slow to start and once established will take off. Pinch back some of the growing tips during the season and that will encourage a denser growth and maintain a moist well-drained soil.

  • S. Safford
    September 4th, 2006 at 11:55 pm · Reply

    I live in the high desert of So.Calif. I planted Confederate Jasmine on the south side of the house. It get’s full sun until late afternoon, is watered weekly. I am seeing white and brown spots on the leaves, lighter color in the leaves, and no bloom on the plant. It is growing, but there is a problem, and i don’t know what it is. This is my first Jasmine

    Confederate Jasmine are relatively disease free. The white and brown spots can indicate a leaf spot. Overhead watering and splashing water can aggravate the problem. Sanitation, removing infected leaves will help control the spread. If you have an extension office nearby or nursery, take a sample in to identify the problem. Lighter color can be a sign of lack of nutrients , which will also affect blooming. Make a note of wheather the new leaves or old ones are lighter.

  • Judy
    October 17th, 2006 at 3:20 am · Reply

    I was given a new Jasmine plant about 4 weeks ago. It had lot flower buds, but only two matured and opened, all the others just dried and dropped off. Today I noticed a very fine web on in it in two places with lots of tiny dots moving on it. How can I best look after this plant and keep it alive, and get rid of the insects on it? I live in NY and the plant is in my office. Thank you.

    It sounds as if your Jasmine may have spider mites. To check for spider mites, take a white sheet of paper and strike a leaf on the paper and if you see small moving dots, then you have spider mites. There are several ways to treat spider mites, the best recommended remedy is to use Neem Oi, by Dyna-gro which smothers both the adult and eggs without damaging the plant. Use 1 oz. (2TBL) of Neem to 1 1/2 tsp of dishwashing detergent to 1 gal of water. Spray the plant generously, especially the underside of the leaves and then apply a second dose 5-7 days later. Jasmine prefer full to partial sun, well-drained soil and added humidity indoors in the winter.

  • Kris
    November 26th, 2006 at 1:26 pm · Reply

    We live in zone 8 / Dallas area. We’ve had 3 days of Frost in december and my star Jasmine vine (about 15 feet or more) has now turned brown – branches and leaves. This vine has been around for 4 years and did very well. It is the 1st time this has happened. I’ve not seen a single green leaf on the main branches. I do see some green leaves at the very bottom – very few. I’ve pruned it back to 1/3 its size and fertilized it. Please advise if I need to prune more or should I give up on this.

    Now that its early spring and new growth is emerging, prune your jasmine up to the green growth. Get rid of the damaged and dead shoots. It sounds like it still has some life in the roots. Easy on the fertilizer, wait till you have good growth.

  • Robin
    April 5th, 2007 at 11:38 pm · Reply

    My two year old jasmine (unsure variety) made it through the winter – it is the large, glossy leaf variety. It is in a container on the north side of our home in Portland, Oregon. I am noticing that new growth has a red edge, and some red dots on the leaves. I can’t see any bugs, but wonder if this is something I should take action about or if it is simply eary growth?

    It could be a leaf spot caused by a fungus. There are a couple leaf spot diseases that occur in the spring. To verify, take a sample to your local nursery or extension office. You may have to treat it with a fungicide.

  • Terrie White
    May 22nd, 2007 at 7:02 pm · Reply

    I live in the state of FLorida and have a jasmine growing up a tree. It is quite large and I haven’t trimmed it for about a year. Since I planted it, it hasn’t produced many flowers. This year the flowers bloom and turn brown and die right away. The foliage on the plant are green and healthly and it gets plenty of water. Should I try to put a blooming fertilizer on the plant?

    This can be weather related; a rapid change in temperatures such as too warm at night, too hot, and dry weather will cause bud blast which causes the flowers droop and turn brown. Other factors that can cause bud blast are excess fertilizer, inadequate light exposure and overhead watering There is also a blossom blight caused by a fungus(Phoma) that affects Jasmine. It starts with brown spots that eventually get larger and darker. This is caused by a fungus when the weather is cool and wet. Clean away all debris at the base of the plant (sanitation) and spray with a fungicide

  • J K Ho
    June 24th, 2007 at 3:41 pm · Reply

    Hello, I’m glad I found this forum. I’m new to gardening but learning quickly. I recently bought 2 pots of star jasmine each about 3 feet high. I want to use it as a screen for privacy in my garden and I plan to have it cover a trellis on the fence (optimal height about 7 feet). How long will I have to wait before it reaches at least that height. It is said that jasmine is a fast grower but what is ‘fast’? Also I live in Vancouver, BC and last winter was harsh(for BC), will it be able to withstand and tolerate -5 C temps well? Thank you!

    I am assuming the your are referring to Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) which is a moderate to fast grower once established. The vines can get up to 20 ft and spread 4-5 ft. wide and can be pruned(after flowering) to fit your needs. The amount of time it will take to reach optimum height depends on how well its growing. It may take 2 years to fill in your fence. Jasmine is hardy in zone 8-10(min temp 10F) and some cultivars zone 7. It should be able to tolerate temperatures of -5C (23F).

  • Benny
    July 12th, 2007 at 7:07 pm · Reply

    Hi, I am new to this site and I find it very helpful. I live in NYC (Queens area) and I recently bought a beautiful jasmine tree, not sure if it is a confederate, though. I put it near a big window facing south. Few days after we had it at home it was all flowers and the smell was just wonderful. Then we had to leave for few days and my nanny decided to put it on a metal tray covered with plastic. When we got home all the flowers were gone and it started loosing all the leaves. We had very hot days recently and we the AC on but it was not blowing cold air against the plant. Since we came back the jasmine is getting worse by the minute. After reading some of your posts, i decided to remove the plastic and leave it on top of newspapers but elevated 1/2 inch with some pieces of wood. Am I doing things right?
    Please help, I love that jasmine!!!
    Thanks! Benny

    Your jasmine is reacting to the new environment. The flowers will last longer if they aren’t exposed to bright direct hot light. Try moving it to an East window if possible or anywhere with bright filtered light. The best thing you can do is to place it outdoors in a semi-shaded(morning sun) area for the summer. It loves humidity and warm temperatures. When watering make sure the water drains freely from the bottom of the pot and then pour out the excess water. A plastic tray or anything to catch the water will do. When it starts grow, a dose of muracid or fertilizer for acid loving plant will help keep the new growth green. I have a Lakeview Jasmine tree (Murraya paniculata) and its flourishes and blooms throughout the summer on my east exposure patio. I bring it indoors in the winter and keep it thriving in bright filtered light until it’s time to go back outdoors.

  • Lisa C.
    October 18th, 2007 at 3:55 pm · Reply

    I just bought a jasmine to plant in a container in my Orlando, FL courtyard. It came in a 10 inch container, and I’m not sure how large a pot to put it in. Does it need a lot of root space, or is it happy somewhat pot-bound? What size container would you recommend? It will be trained to a trellis.

    Unless the roots fill the pot and circling or are coming out of the holes it may not need repotting. General rule of thumb is to transplant to a container 1-2″ larger.

  • Lisa C.
    October 21st, 2007 at 10:31 am · Reply

    Thanks for the potting advice! I planted my new jasmine in a slightly larger pot than the one it came in, using a mix of regular potting soil (a new bag) and some MiracleGro potting soil that I had on hand. This was a couple of days ago. Today I noticed that there are some kind of centipedes or caterpillars in the soil. I saw at least three of them. They are small, maybe an inch long, and brownish. Should I be concerned? What should I do about them?

    Lisa, sometimes running water on the soil surface until it drains out of the bottom will flush out the unwanted insects but if that doesn’t work try drenching the soil with an insecticidal soap solution. Follow manufacturer’s directions.

  • Jenny Cunningham
    October 27th, 2007 at 6:09 pm · Reply

    Some of the leaves of myConfederate Jasmine look like they have a white powder, but it doesn’t wipe or scratch off. What should I do for it? It’s a large, corner plant about 6′ tall. It was here when I moved in 5 years ago. I don’t have a green thumb, so I’m desperate for some advice! Thanks.

    Confederate Jasmine usually doesn’t get many foliar diseases. One possibility is powdery mildew .This will occur in spring with humid weather. It is easily treated. It may also just be a residue from the milky sap of damaged leaves. If the plant is healthy and growing then you probably have nothing to worry about.

    Tara
    Hello, I’m new to this forum, and have been searching for information on what I am experiencing with my jasmine plant. It is indoors, with lots of light, in a cold climate. It has developped a mold on all it’s leaves. It is white and powdery. Any suggestions? Also, when we water it, the water runs straight through, we were told not to soak it, but I feel like it’s not even getting a moderate watering. Thanks

    Sounds like you have powdery mildew on your leaves. It is a airborne fungus that thrives under certain environmental conditions-cool nights, high humidity. See the article on powdery mildew for treatment-baking soda or Neem Oil. I wouldn’t worry about the watering, it is better to have good drainage than roots sitting in water. The plants require less water in the winter.

  • Melissa A
    November 6th, 2007 at 4:29 pm · Reply

    Hi, Great site!

    I have three Jasmine plants that we planted last spring. They did really well through the summer until just recently when two of the three have had their leaves turn bright red and all the leaves are now falling off. A prior poster had similar issue and you said it was in response to hot weather, but it has not been hot – it is fall! Is this just a typical autumn color show? The third plant’s leaves have red spots on them, but as of yet have not gone fully red like the others.
    Thanks for any advice!

    Temperature is a major factor in color change, some confederate jasmines are known to take on a red color in the fall. As for the spots on the leaves- it may be a leaf spot. My best suggestion is to take a leaf to your local extension office.

  • mARGOT RICHMOND
    December 18th, 2007 at 8:52 am · Reply

    I live in North Florida and I have about 10 confederate jasmine plants that I planted at the beginning of the year. However about a month ago the leaves started turning dark RED and then brown. All of my plants look like this. I water then regulary and they still look alive but why RED and brown leaves?

    It’s not unusual for the leaves to turn red in the fall/winter. It’s possible that cold weather is causing the leaves to brown. They should sprout new growth in the spring.

  • joe
    January 11th, 2008 at 2:47 pm · Reply

    I have a Jasmine plant (I do not know exactly what type it is)It is planted in an urn and is on my Lanai in Naples Florida. It gets the sun most of the day and it appears to be doing alright except that the buds that are on the plant do not open up (there are a lot of them) They have not fallen off they’re just starting to turn a yellow color. The plant looks healthy , the leaves are shinny and look good but the buds do not. I looked on the underside of the leaves and notice on some not all, little black dots that do not move. I don’t know if these dots are bugs or whatever. Can you help?

    Are you spraying the plant when you water?

  • joe
    January 14th, 2008 at 3:00 pm · Reply

    Regarding your answer to my problem comment [1/11/08] I am not spraying the plant when I water. My plant is in a bucket and I water it at the bottom of the plant. I usuall water it about 2-3 times a week.

  • Melinda
    March 22nd, 2008 at 2:38 pm · Reply

    I live near the beach in Southern California. We have two Confederate Jasmine plants in containers that have both done well for the past 4 years. My husband and I disagree on one aspect of pruning. Our plants sometimes have thin shoots that are several feet long with very minimal leaf/bud growth on them. I think we should cut these back. My husband prefers to keep them and wrap them around our trellis. We both think our methods will produce a thicker plant in the long run. Which is the better method? Thanks!

    Jasmine can send out long shoots when they are reaching out for more light. I cut my thin vines back for the winter and now the plant is sending out lots of new lateral growth. Cutting back after flowering as well as tip pinching during the growing season will give you a bushier and fuller plant and will help control the length of the vine. They can growth up to 20 ft, so maybe a little pruning wouldn’t hurt. Your method is better.

  • Suzanne
    March 30th, 2008 at 3:21 pm · Reply

    can u plant star jasmine as a ground cover around ruffle azaleas. I live in florida and i hate keeping the mulch looking fresh and thought i could maybe use the jasmine for the cover instead.

    Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) can grow as a ground cover. It will be 1 1/2 -2 ft. tall with tip-pinching and trimming and spread 4-5 ft. wide.
    source:Clemson.edu

  • gary
    April 22nd, 2008 at 12:26 pm · Reply

    I planted 20 star jasmine plants outdoors in central coastal florida two months ago. all are growing ok but on several the leaves of new growth are yellowish. have fertilized with time-release osmocote and several weeks ago added ironite. what’s happening?

    Sounds like an iron defiency – which will affect new growth. Chlorosis is indicated by interveinal yellowing on young leaves. It takes a few weeks for the jasmine to respond to ironite. You may want to give it another dose. Chelated iron is also another form of iron that is readily absorbable by the plant and should respond in a week. If your plants are not responding to the treatment then there may be a problem with the roots system being unable to take in the nutrients.

  • gary
    April 24th, 2008 at 1:00 pm · Reply

    I have added additional ironite as you suggested but a local nursery suggested adding magnesium. I know this is acceptable for palms but I am hesitant since I have found most of the nurseries in this area are fairly ignorant and often shoot from the hip. What do you think?

    Micro nutrients such as magnesium have a tendency to leach out of the sandy soils in Florida. If you use a fertilizer that has all major elements (NPK) and including the minor nutrients such as calcium, sulfur, magnesium, zinc you will not risk having a nutrient deficiency. High potassium level in the soil will also keep magnesium from being absorbed by the roots. Low levels of magnesium are indicated by interveinal and marginal yellowing of the lower leaves and then extending to upper leaves. If you have a deficiency, an inexpensive way to treat a mangnesium deficiency is to add magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt ) to the soil. One recommended formula was – Mix 5TB epsom salt to 5 gal of water and 2 drops of liquid detergent. Spray or water the plants and see if that makes any difference. A diluted formula won’t hurt the plants, some swear by it. A soil test would be helpful but it will not indicate the minor nutrients unless you request them and that will cost $$.

  • Katy
    April 26th, 2008 at 5:04 pm · Reply

    I have a star jasmine plant that has been living in my house in Colorado over the winter. Recently, it began dropping leaves and I notice that there are several yellowing leaves on the plant. There are also small, oblong brown spots (about 5 mm in length) on some leaves and branches which can be peeled off. Is this some kind of pest? Any suggestions?

    It sounds as if you have scale. Sometimes difficult to get rid of but in summer outdoors easier to control..

  • sandy sandifer
    June 22nd, 2008 at 6:16 am · Reply

    I have tiny ants on the buds of my confederate jasmine. What can I do to get rid of them?

    Hi Sandy,
    It’s possible that you have scale or aphids that the ants are attracted to. Check the leaves for a clear sticky substance-this is honeydew an excrement of scale, aphids which the ants love. Get rid of the insect and you will get rid of the ants.

  • Dot Bates
    June 26th, 2008 at 7:17 pm · Reply

    Oops! Sorry about the additional comment blocks with “NO comment” in them (I’m new at this). Dilemma: I relocated a healthy confederate jasmine in 1995 to a family rental (same general local in S.C.). It thrived and bloomed beautifully over the next several years. I returned to this property in 2003, and was sadden that the jasmine was gone. While preparing a new flower bed the following year, I found the jasmine was still alive under a mountain of weeds and leaves. I have given it a lot of TLC over the past 4 years, including acidic fertilizer. The leaves look healthy but the vines, although lengthy, are very small and spindly and it just refuses to bloom. Is there something I can do to restore this plant to its former beauty?

    Hi Dot
    You don’t mention how much sun it gets. It likes sun to partial shade with midday protection from the sun in order to bloom well. Confederate jasmine has a tendency to send out long spindly vines which you can cut back to stimulate lateral growth. It blooms on old wood or last year’s growth. Since your isn’t blooming, you might want to cut it back to coax it to bloom. Once it starts to flower, prune after the blooming cycle is done. Be cautious of how much fertilizer you give the plant as too much will only stimulate green growth and no flowers.

  • muhammad khabbab
    July 30th, 2008 at 11:50 pm · Reply

    hello,
    i m growing variagated star jasmine in 16” container. it gets 5 hours direct sunlight. we get 40c summer here. i transplated it from 6 inches pot. Since tranplantation (its 2 months now), old stems are not at all growing. one new stem evolved(because i broke the old one) with extremely slow growth but its leaves are droping. no bloom so far. i m not giving it much water. Gave it a liquid mild phosporus fert to expect some blooms but no avail. Now i am thinking of putting it in coir fiber hanging basket. kindly help.
    thanks,
    Khabbab, Pakistan

  • Kim
    August 21st, 2008 at 9:47 am · Reply

    NW Florida. Same problem as some others have mentioned–however, no yard men involved spraying chemicals. One out of six plants on a trellis (five years old), has half the leaves turning red–some with spots, some of the green ones turn light green and look and feel wimpy, and then all leaves fall off. Some of the stems seem to be narrower/old looking and break easy. Took it to a nursery and they said it could be too much water causing root rot or too little water. Other plants are doing fine on same watering schedule. These particular plants normally only turn a little red later in the year. Any thoughts–looks like quite a few people are having the same problem.

  • Jen
    August 29th, 2008 at 8:54 am · Reply

    Hi – not sure what variety of Jasmine. I bought my plant about a month ago, repotted it, and put it on a sunny porch. It seemed very happy – putting out a lot of buds and a new shoot. However, the buds are not blossoming. They look ready to pop, but then some of them will just shrivel, turn brown and fall off. The leaves all look very healthy. Today when I was watering it I noticed a bit of leaf curled over on itself and tacked down with spidery stuff. I found this a couple other spots on the plant and when I peeled one open a small pale greenish/brown catepiller with a dark head, about 3/4 inch long was inside. I found one other brighter green catepiller that was “inching” along when I first got the plant. Please advise how to treat it? I’ve looked at pest sites but can’t find my worm. Also, I have a geranium and an oxalis on the porch – I’ve moved them, but do I need to quarantine my Jasmine? Thanks!

    HI Jen
    You may have a budworm (Hendecasis sp.) infestation. It is a greenish caterpillar with a black head that bores into the immature flower buds and eat away at its parts. The buds turn brown and fall off. BT (Dipel) can control the caterpillar when they chew on the leaves or Malathion is also recommended.

  • Marsha
    September 6th, 2008 at 9:19 am · Reply

    I have 25 Confederate Star Jasmine vines planted on a trellis. It gets mostly sun and some shade. I planted them this Spring. The BOTTOM leaves only on all of them are turning bright yellow, then bright red. If I touch the leaf, it falls off. Other than that they look healthy. Have planted elsewhere before with no problems. I am in Zone 8. We had a hot summer (up to 106), then recently received 5 inches of rain and cooled down to the 80’s. I have been using a soaker hose to water them until they are established. What could be the problem?

  • jeannie farrell
    September 7th, 2008 at 6:43 am · Reply

    Hi I Trimed My Jasmine 2 Weeks Ago . Is There Any Thing In The Sap That Could Make My Skin Break Out That Looks And Itch
    As poison?

    Hi Jeannie
    The milky white sap from the cut stem can be a skin irritant.

  • Dena
    October 12th, 2008 at 12:45 pm · Reply

    I think I made a big mistake with my confederate jasmine. When I bought it, it was root bound with the roots circling the pot. I had intended to re-pot it anyway, but didn’t bother to read up on it before I started. I trimmed the root ball, but think I probably got carried away. All the leaves have fallen off and there has been no new growth for at least a week. Have I killed it completely?

    Hi Dena
    It’s too early to say how it will respond. The plant will shed its leaves because it can’t support them any longer. If the roots recover, they should send out a little new growth. Is it planted in a pot or in the ground?

  • Dena
    October 15th, 2008 at 6:19 am · Reply

    The Confederate Jasmine is planted in a pot. I’m really sure how much to water it, without any leaves left. I don’t want to overdo that, too. I’m in Central FL and it’s still pretty warm during the day. I have it where it can get lots of indirect light and only moderate direct light. Thanks for your comments.

    Hi Dena
    Water it when the top 2 inches are dry. Stick your finger in the soil to test for dryness. You could get some transplant fertilizer which has a higher middle # (phosphorous) to stimulate new root growth. Use according to manufacturers recommendation . Err on less than more fertilizer as we are going into winter and a slower growing season.

  • 'Mindy Kelly
    October 16th, 2008 at 8:56 am · Reply

    I was wondering how do I go about trimming my confederate Jasmine that is growing on my chainlink fence. It is very stringy and want to make it fuller?

    HI Mindy
    Confederate jasmine has a tendency to vine and pruning will help shape it . To trim it back, unravel the vines and cut it back by no less than 1/3 of this years growth.

  • David McAferty
    December 3rd, 2008 at 4:32 pm · Reply

    Hello

    I live in the Florida panhandle. My confederate jasmine has produced seed pods for the first time. When will they be mature enough to harvest so that I don’t wait too long and they split and are dispersed everywhere. Also any seed germination and seedling tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Hi David
    Generally, Confederate Jasmine is propagated by cuttings not seeds. They may not come true from seed. I don’t have any info on seed propagation for Confederate Jasmine but I would think that it is the same as Mandevilla seeds which you can try.
    When the pods dry, they will turn brown and split open exposing fluffy seeds that have fluffy aerials (like dandelions) to help disperse them. With the tail on, soak the seeds for 12 hrs. then plant in a seed starter mix and barely cover with soil. Keep warm and moist at a bottom temperature of 65-75. Should germinate within 30 days. Let us know your results.

  • Matt
    December 16th, 2008 at 7:11 pm · Reply

    I am considering planting confederate jasmine in my back yard. Is the plant safe for my dog, should she decide to chew on it? Also, when is the best time of year to plant it here near the coast of SC?

    Hi Matt
    Confederate jasmine is listed a non-toxic to cats and dogs. The sap is an irritant and if the dog chews on the plant, it may get a stomach ache. Best time to plant is in early spring.

  • Hillery Honeycutt
    January 3rd, 2009 at 9:42 am · Reply

    I am wanting to plant Star Jasmine. I plan on building a trellis. I was wanting to know …what is the best size lattice to use? The spacing in the lattice can be anywhere from 1 3/4 in.(privacy lattice) to 3 in. Does it matter the size of the lattice? or will it climb pretty much anything? Also will it climb PVC lattice just as well as wood?

    Hi Hillery
    I would go with a fairly heavy support for Confederate Jasmine (Star Jasmine). It should climb on PVC lattice but will not climb on masonry walls.

  • suz
    January 13th, 2009 at 5:13 am · Reply

    Hi,
    I have overwintered 3 star jasmine in the greenhouse in MI. Should I put them out in spring or leave in greenhouse till june zone shaky 5. Would they be flowering in greenhouse yet? Mine are not but look real healthy have been growing for 5 months in greenhouse.
    Thanks great site

    Hi Suz
    I would put them outside when night time temps are in the 50’s, they will enjoy the great outdoors. Confederate jasmine will start to bloom in June/ earlier in warmer climates.

  • Jane from MN
    January 21st, 2009 at 8:01 am · Reply

    Living in MN. I brought my potted star jasmine indoors mid October. It was in a sunny window doing fine, in December it started dropping a few dry leaves. I water it once every 10 days. Now in mid January all leaves have dropped. I cut back the vine until I saw green. Will it come back this spring? Should I increase humidity in the room? Help! I used to live in CA and I miss the smell of star jasmine in the spring/summer.

    Hi jane
    Star jasmine like other tropicals will drop their leaves in low humidity, low light and dry conditions. Now that it dropped all its leaves, keep it in a cool spot away from sun (dormant-like mandevilla). You don’t want to promote new growth just yet. It would have been better to cut it back in early spring. If it starts to send out new growth at this time then place it in the sunniest spot in the house and increase the humidity. The new growth may be spindly but can also be trimmed in spring.

  • Nikki
    March 14th, 2009 at 4:32 pm · Reply

    I have a Confederate Jasmine for about 6 years that has always grown well in a large pot outside with plenty of sun. The plant has grown about 6 feet tall and is wrapped around a trellace. Through the winter, I neglected to water the plant and we had a very dry winter. All the leaves have turned brown and remain on the vine. When I break open part of a branch, I can see that it is green and still alive. I have never cut back the vine in the 6 years and normally wrap new growth around the trellace. It is March and I am in Dallas. What do I do? Should I cut back 1/3 and pinch off dead leaves? Thanks, Nikki

    Hi Nikki
    You can cut your jasmine vine back by 1/3. Pruning the vine will help stimulate new growth and fill in the empty spots. Fertilize the vine when you see new growth. No need to pinch off the leaves, they will fall off by themselves. Also, be sure it gets enough water.

  • Amy
    April 7th, 2009 at 3:13 pm · Reply

    I have confederate jasmine that has grown on a trellis. I have had it for about 2 years and it has never bloomed. I am finally seeing a few blooms. I was wondering if it should be fertilized?

    HI Amy
    Fertilize your confederate jasmine in the spring with a 10-20-10 formula to encourage more blooms or a balanced fertilizer of 10-10-10.

  • Kay
    April 17th, 2009 at 6:04 am · Reply

    I live in N. Ft. Myers, FL. I have several star jasmines growing as a hedge in western exposure. Exposure is filtered light in some places due to palms, and some doesn’t receive sun (blocked by house until about noon).

    I have a sprinkler system which comes on a couple of times a week. The jasmines have been in the ground for about 3 1/2 – 4 years and have done great.

    For the past month or so I have noticed them starting to get skimpy and some leaves are turning yellow. When I first noticed the problem, I fertilized with high acid fertilizer. The problem is still there. Now I have noticed that underneath some of the leaves, I see tiny dark spots that don’t move.

    Could you please give me advice on what to do for the star jasmines?

    Incidentally (and hopefully unrelated) I did have a Queen Palm near the Jasmines die about a year ago, or less. It was due to a fungus that affects only Queen Palms and another Queen can’t be planted in its place. It is a new disease that has an unknown cause and no cure yet. I think it only affects Queen Palms, as the Agricultural Agency told me. It is not the fungus or disease that had mushrooms or something like that at the base. The fronds did not droop. They just died still extended straight out. I think it started at the bottom ones. New growth would come at the top and eventually the whole thing died.

    Thank you so much for your help.
    Kay

    Hi Kay
    I can think of 2 possiblities: 1. Leaf spot disease- caused by overhead sprinkling. 2. Scale- the yellowing leaves can be a sign of insect infestation. Scale do not move (at least you can’t see them move). Try to scrape off the brown spot. If it comes off like a half shell then you have scale.

  • Olga
    May 3rd, 2009 at 7:41 am · Reply

    I am new to gardening and am very pleased with this forum. Thank you for all the tips! I will be planting my new confederate jasmine today, in San Antonio, Tx.

    Thank you for your kind words. We’re happy to help when we can. Enjoy your jasmine, they have a wonderful fragrance when in bloom.

  • chris phillips
    May 12th, 2009 at 11:44 am · Reply

    I planted two confederate jasmine plants by my pool 2 years ago. I live in central North Carolina. It is in full sun and my sprinkler system waters 2 times a week. there is some water spray that hits the leaves when watering (mister type spray) maybe just the bottom portion of plant. Well it did awesome all spring and summer and I had it trained to grow up the side of a brick column with help. (fishing line). after the fall and winter the sping came again and sections of the vine were dead and eventually the vines died. that was last year. I had two confederate jasmine planted beside my house with partial shade. One is growing good and the other did the same thing this spring. It seems to be comming back though. I will prune out all of the dead branches and see what happens. Any precautions you can suggest? I get black spot from time to time and I spray Fertilome triple plus and it takes care of that problem but I cannot figure out what is killing the vine during the winter months.

    Hi Chris
    My guess would be that your Jasmine is marginally hardy where you live. Confederate jasmine is noted to be hardy in zone 8-11 you are in zone 7?. Eventhough parts of it die in winter, it still comes back from the roots. This may be a recurring problem after each winter. Not all plants are equal, some plants may have just a little more hardiness in them than others. A more protected area (micro climate) can “stretch” hardiness. You might want to ask around in your neighborhood if anyone has hardiness issues with their jasmine or even grows them. Although it will not protect the vines, mulch the plant in winter to protect the roots. There is a cultivar “Madison” that is hardy in zone 7

  • Romulo
    May 24th, 2009 at 7:03 am · Reply

    I am new to gardening, and have had mixed results with my attempts at landscaping. Lots of trial and error, but I’m feeling confident enough to try a new project. I have a two story (roughly 22 feet) arched entry way over my front door. I want to frame it with confederate jasmine, trained on wire in a diamond pattern. I’m not sure if the vines will actually climb high enough. I’m concerned that it won’t make it to the top, and ultimately will not give the desired effect. What do you think?

    Hi Romulo
    For a beginner gardener that’s an ambitious project. With great growing conditions, the twining vine is a moderate to fast grower and can grow up to 20 ft.

  • Ashley
    May 27th, 2009 at 3:10 pm · Reply

    I recently bought a Confederate jasmine and I’m planning on planting it on a trellis. I’ve been considering several locations around my yard. One location is in a sandy corner between my house and sidewalk. I know the vine gets quite woody as it gets larger. Could the roots possibly harm the foundation of my house or my concrete sidewalk?

    Hi Ashley
    I don’t think the roots of confederate jasmine are that aggressive to cause a problem with the foundation or sidewalk.

  • Marcy
    May 31st, 2009 at 9:56 am · Reply

    I live in northern VA in the Washington DC suburbs. I was recently in Hilton Head SC and saw the confederate jasmine in full bloom & scent. I was enchanted. I ordered a vine but now fear it may get too cold here in the winter. As best I can tell I am in zone 6-8. I have seen differing postings on which zones this lovely plant can live in. Any ideas?

    Hi Marcy
    Confederate jasmine is hardy in zone 8-10. Madison cultivar is hardy to zone 7.

  • jim
    May 31st, 2009 at 3:21 pm · Reply

    I planted a Confederate Jasmine last spring (2008). Though not zooming, it seemed to be methodically getting established and was looking good. Then this March (2009) I began noticing some of the leaves were turning a bright red. Here are pictures. What’s causing this? I really don’t want to lose this plant.

    http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/5838/singleleafp1040924.jpg
    http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3539/widerviewp1040927.jpg

    http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2958/singleleafp1040925.jpg

  • Rob Crawford
    June 1st, 2009 at 3:01 pm · Reply

    I live in “Seattle/Kent” – in a modular home condominium. Spaces are tight between homes (12′ north south). My Star Jasmine is in a cedar box/trellis 18×24x24 and sits between our houses. I figure it’s used up its cedar box and needs to be moved because it looks like death warmed over. Have a nice Jap Maple and stunted flowering cherry in front/ sun side of house.
    Question: Under the Cherry? or Under the Japanese Maple? Jap Maple is 6′ tall and 7′ round – lots of room under.

    It’s all kinda busy but have room between J/M and F Cherry. In front – full sun – Medium PomPom Juniper and Ornimental evergreen. Front yard is 10′ x 22′ (that’s all I got). I’m trying to organize my scented shrubs to leeward @ the window level for maximum natural pleasure.

    Want to save the Jasmine and know it’s in the wrong place. jpg available because I”m stuck for ideas and what I should do to maximize look and minimize care. A wysteria to die for – looking for overhead trellis ideas for it (rope-ladder sorta?)

  • Jenny Carr
    July 3rd, 2009 at 10:45 pm · Reply

    I live in Bellevue Washington, and I bought two Star Jasmine plants about three weeks ago. They looked and smelled wonderful and now some of the leaves are turning brown and the flowers are turning brown as well. Everyday time we have a couple of really hot days, close to the 90’s, the flowers turn brown around the edges. I am new to gardening, and I don’t know what I am doing wrong. They are in direct sun till about 2:00pm, and I water 2 times a day, in the morning and night. What should I do? Or do some of the leaves turn brown?

    Hi Jenny
    I love the smell of Confederate jasmine! It sounds as if your jasmine is not happy in its current location.Once you find the right spot, it is relatively carefree. For starters,I would move the plant in a more shaded area with less direct sun-that may be the cause of the browning. In addition, try to water really well in the AM. Check the soil in the evening and unless the pot is completely dry or the plant is wilting, try to water in the morning. Otherwise give the plant just enough water to keep it from wilting and rewater well in the morning. Try not to spray the plant but water at the soil line.

  • Lydia
    July 8th, 2009 at 5:08 pm · Reply

    I just bought my first home this spring in Madison, WI – it’s a condo on the second floor and I set about creating a container garden. I purchased two star jasmine bushes in hopes they would wind around my balcony railing. I have southwesterly exposure and they seem to be doing ok. However while there is some new growth it’s minimal and it’s been about a month. I’m currently fertilizing weekly with Miracle Grow but is there anything I can do to encourage them along? A different fertilizer perhaps? I was told that this particular jasmine is a very vigorous grower but mine doesn’t appear to be.

    Hi Lydia
    You don’t mention if you transplanted your star jasmine into another container. If so its re-adjusting to the change and will take some time to burst into growth. Since it is showing some growth, it may be just a matter of time before it takes off. A weekly dose of fertilizer may not be a good idea-every two weeks would be better. Too much fertilizer can burn the roots and cause more problems.

  • Deborah
    July 11th, 2009 at 6:45 pm · Reply

    I live in Central Florida and have confederate jasmine plant that is five years old/ After blooms this spring it has taken off but there are small groups of growths on the stems of the new shoots. I am wondering if this is some sort of root system for the vines or pests?

    Hi Deb
    I’m not sure what you are describing. Most likely your confederate jasmine is branching out and sending side shoots with rootlets on them. Can you send me a picture?

  • Fern Price
    July 13th, 2009 at 5:37 pm · Reply

    I have several vining, cluster star jasmine. I started them from about three 3-gallon plants from the OSH nursery. They have been doing very well and are vining around several stakes in the ground. This year they are in full bloom and fragrant. However, some of the leaves are turning a dark reddish-brown and are falling off the vines. This leaves very spindly vines at the top. There are still many fragrant white flowers. How do I keep the leaves from falling off and dying? Thank you.

  • Deborah
    July 21st, 2009 at 2:13 pm · Reply

    What is the closest distance I can plant confederate jasmine to a septic tank or leach field? Is it a concern at all? I can find no useful information on the root system of this plant in regards to a septic tank. Also, if I put confederate jasmine on a fence in my back yard, how far away from my neighbors tree is a safe distance that the vine will not be able to access their tree? How far will confederate jasmine “reach out” to attach itself to something. Thank you very much.

  • Adrienne
    August 2nd, 2009 at 9:40 am · Reply

    Hello,
    I live in the Twin cities, MN and just bought a star jasmine this summer. It did fantastic this summer but i’m wondering about winter care. I know i need to re-pot and bring inside for the winter. Our house has windows facing south and gets really warm with indirect sunlight, but it also gets dry. how far do i cut the vines back for the winter? Any other tips for sun light and keeping a humid atmospher would be great.
    Thanx,
    Adrienne

    Hi Adrienne,
    I keep my confederate jasmine in a south window in winter and it does well. I water less but make sure it doesn’t get too dry. It seems to tolerate the drier indoor conditions. If it is in a pot don’t repot until spring. I did not cut the vines last season, I just wound up the vine into a circle, its been blooming all spring and is still blooming. To make it more manageable, you can cut it back by 1/3 in the fall or wait till late winter before any new growth start to trim it back. I find it to be an easy plant to grow, just keep an eye out for scale.

  • Mark
    August 4th, 2009 at 9:22 pm · Reply

    My star jasmine are about 5 years old. I live in Houston and it’s been hot, but not more so than previous years. In Nov or Dec. I noticed one of the 10 plants along my fence began to have brown branches and the leaves were falling off. Now the entire planct is dead. The root system appears to not have been destroyed. The plant next to it is starting to experience the same thing. Is this a fungus? Do I need to spray it with fungicide? Thoughts?? Thanks!

  • Ellen
    August 5th, 2009 at 7:52 am · Reply

    We bought two confederate jasmine plants about 2 1/2 months ago and placed them on the east side of the yard. They get about six hours of sun a day. The leaves are turning brown and falling off. We live in the Phoenix area and summer is upon us. We are currently deep watering daily. There are still some green leaves and every once in a while I notice bud tips that dry out. How can I keep these plants alive in Phoenix? Thanks

  • Bonnie Hettinger
    August 15th, 2009 at 8:50 am · Reply

    Why would one confederate jasmine planted and treated exactly the same as the other vine and the other grows healthy but doesn’t vine?

    Hi Bonnie
    Just like people, you can be in the same family but no two plants are exactly the same. The second vine is slower and may not have reached the maturity level to vine.

  • Micah
    August 18th, 2009 at 6:53 am · Reply

    I just planted my first three stalks of Confederate Jasmine last week. They are in my back yard, they get moderate afternoon sun. They seemed to be doing fine but this morning I was watering them and they have a strange growth on the sides of the stalks. It is white and hard, looks like some kind of mold or fungus maybe. It’s not powdery, and when I touch it is is attached to the stalk. Does anyone know what this is or how to get rid of it? I just planted them, have been watering them every other day. I live in Atlanta, so it is very hot here in summer. Thanks.

    Hi Micah
    If the fungus or mold is coming from the stalk then it is rotting from the inside. The fungus is an outward sign of the decay going on inside the stalk.

  • Diane
    September 5th, 2009 at 10:01 am · Reply

    Not blooming
    Hi, I have a confederate jasmine growing in my yard but it doesnt bloom anly 1 or 2 flowers a week. I give it some water every other week but the rain keeps drowning it. do you think that could be the problem?

    Hi Diane
    There are a number of reason why a plant will not bloom-not enough sun, too much Nitrogen fertilizer, improper pruning and stress. Too much water can be the problem but if the plant has green leaves and is growing well then water may not be the case. Confederate jasmine normally blooms the most in early spring thru summer. It blooms on old wood so if you cut it back too much then you will not get flowers. They should be pruned right after bloom.

  • Chrissey
    September 26th, 2009 at 10:52 am · Reply

    We bought a home that has several beautiful Confederate Jasmine vines growing on an otherwise unwanted fence. What suggestions do you have for successful transplanting?

  • Dawn
    September 29th, 2009 at 4:30 pm · Reply

    Sooty mold
    Hello, I live in San Diego and have Jasmine growing as ground cover for 6 years now. Lately I’ve noticed the leaves seem to have hard black powderish stuff on them. Can you help please. I’ve heard of white powder but nothing to do with black. Thanks!

    Hi Dawn
    It may be sooty mold which grows on honeydew, a sweet, sticky substance that is produced by scale, aphids. Check the underside of the leaves and stems for scale.

  • Sheri
    September 30th, 2009 at 6:44 am · Reply

    I have a pergola with six confederate jasmine plants trellising up each supporting post. The plants are about five years old, and have now reached the point where each post is covered, and the top of the pergola as well. My problem is that since the pergola has become completely covered in jasmine, three of the six plant “bases” are now in full shade all day, and the part of the plant that is under the shade is dropping ALL its leaves. The base of the plant, up to about 8 feet, is nothing more than woody vine, with no leaves. However, the part of the vine that is running horizontally on the pergola roof, is full of glossy green leaves. I don’t think this is a fertilizer issue because the ends are so healthy – it’s the part closer to the bottom of the plant that looks so sickly. Am I right in assuming this is a problem created by the plant’s own shade? Is this a danger to the health of plant, or just a symptom of the vines underneath not getting enough sun? Is there anything I can do to get the leaves to start growing again at the base of the plant?

  • Cassiopeia
    September 30th, 2009 at 8:28 am · Reply

    I have 6 young adult C. Jasmine living in HUGE planter boxes that can not be moved indoors. I live in Lubbock Texas (NW Texas) and the winters are not so mild here. It typically freezes every night. What can I do to protect these guys from dying? They are close to the house and protected from freezing winds. I just want them to die.Please help!!

    Hi
    You can insulate the planter boxes so that the roots won’t freeze and place 3-6″ of mulch on top of the soil. The leaves will drop or turn black once exposed to a hard freeze. The best you can do is to protect the roots so they don’t freeze and are ble to return next season. If possible move the planter boxes into a garage.

  • Ben
    October 4th, 2009 at 8:36 am · Reply

    Winterize Confederate Jasmine
    I live in the city of Chicago and planted a Confederate Jasmine in the backyard. It did fine this year, due to the rainfall. It is growing on a trellis and has reached about 5 ft. Question: Can the plant winter outside if covered and soil treated to prevent ice crystals. If not, what steps should I take to re-plant in an indoor planter?

    HI Ben
    You can treat your confederate jasmine just like a Mandevilla. Dig it up and pot it in good soil mix. Treat it like a houseplant. If it is overgrown trim it back by 1/2 to make it manageable. Once it gets over transplant shock,place it in the south window for the winter.

  • Eve
    October 12th, 2009 at 10:02 am · Reply

    HI:

    I live in NR Florida, and have a well established confederate jasmine that suddenly is loosing leaves. They are turning brown and falling off. It appears as though there are some tiny white specks on the underside of the leaves, and tiny black specks on the upper surface. Can anyone help diagnose and treat? Thanks. Don’t want to lose the plant. It is 4 ft high and very mature..

    Hi Eve
    It sounds as if your confederate jasmine has an insect infestation. Is there a sticky substance on the surface of the leaves? Can you send a picture?

  • Julie
    October 17th, 2009 at 4:46 pm · Reply

    Winterover jasmine indoors
    I live in Northern Colorado and am wondering what I need to do with my star jasmine plants. I have three of them outside on my deck, but now that it’s starting to get colder outside I’m wondering if I need to bring them inside. Also, how often do I need to water these?
    Thanks in advance!!

    HI Julie
    Bring your star jasmine inside, it will not survive the winter. Here’s what I do and have had success with. I bring my jasmine inside and place it in a south window where it will spend the whole winter. I water less during the slow growing season (once a week) and check for bugs. Look for insects at the end of winter. If your jasmine is large and needs down sizing cut it back by 1/3 when you bring it indoors.

  • Phyllis G.
    October 19th, 2009 at 12:38 pm · Reply

    I’ve had my Confederate Jasmine for about 14-15 years. It’s planted outside and have never had a problem, just pruned it when it got “leggy”. It’s always been full and has bloomed several times/year. I live in the Tampa, FL area. Suddenly, it’s dropping it’s leaves (soem have turned red, as they usually do in the fall). It’s beginning to look “bald”. What do I need to do?

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