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Houseplants spring cleaning

Houseplants spring cleaning

Now that spring has sprung, its time to take a good look at some of your houseplants that have endured the long cold winter. Most houseplants are tropical and require high humidity and warm temperatures, which they most likely will not get in the colder climate regions. The plan is to keep them thriving thru the winter in a restful stage until the warmer weather comes along. With days getting brighter and longer, a new growing season is beginning. It’s time to do some spring cleaning.

Check the pot size. Is your plant potbound? Does it have crammed roots? Are they wrapped around in circle? If so, repot in a 1 inch larger size pot loosening the roots so that they can stretch out.
Check for insects. The dry, warm temperatures indoors is a perfect environment for spider mites. To check for mites, look for webs in the axils of the leaves . Place the plant or leaf on white sheet of paper, tap the leaf, see if there are any small black spots that are slowly moving, if so, you should spray the entire plant and underside of leaves with a safe indoor insecticide. Follow manufacturers directions. Rotate the plant to ensure even sun exposure; this way you will have a nicely shaped plant.
Water when the plant is dry not according to a timed schedule. Warmer temperatures and active growth will increase the need for water.
Fertilize - Once temperatures get warmer and the plant begins to actively grow, start feeding with a diluted fertilizer or fish emulsion. Before fertilizing, water dry plants first to avoid burning the roots with fertilizer. Fish emulsion is not as strong as a chemical fertilizer and therefore is less likely to burn the roots or lead to soluble salt buildup.
Propagation: Spring is a great time to take cuttings and make new plants. Cuttings can root in light soil, peat, perlite or water (depending on the plant).
When night temperatures reach 55F, move your plant outdoors for a summer vacation. Slowly acclimate it in the shade and after a week move it to brighter light (depending on the plant).
Now your plant is ready for a new healthy growing season !

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March 27th, 2004 | Category: Garden Review, houseplant care | 13 comments

13 comments to Houseplants spring cleaning

• Shellie McDermott

  March 8th, 2007 at 6:16 am · Reply

  My beautiful peace lily is drooping, I think from overwatering. It had too many people try to help it, now I’m not sure if it can be saved. It has been droopy for a week. What can I do to make it a happy plant again?

  If it has been overwatered, then you need to let the soil dry between watering. They can look very droopy and slowly perk up, depending on how much root damage there is. It may also be drooping because it is pot bound and isn’t get enough water. Wait and see if it perks up, when it does, knock the plant out of the pot and examine the roots. Are they growing in a circle or tightly bound together, filling up the pot? If so, gently separate them, trim off some of the dead (black ) roots and repot the plant in a container 1-2 inches larger. Spring is a great time to repot your plant and get it ready for the growing season. I hope this helps.

• Mechelle

  March 22nd, 2007 at 9:10 am · Reply

  All of my houseplants have turned brown on the tips. I also have little gnats flying around them. I have sprayed and no results. What could this be caused by?

  It sounds as if you have been overwatering your plants and brown tips and fungus gnats are the result. Fungus gnats lay their eggs in the soil which turn into tiny larvae that thrive on fungi and decaying roots. After they pupate, they emerge from the soil as tiny flying gnats. They like constantly moist soil and therefore are an indicator that the soil has been too wet. To control fungus gnats , let the soil dry out between waterings and try BT (israelensis) sold as Gnatrol, Knock-Out Gnats which will take care of the larval stage. Pour the mixture (BT & water) on your soil-follow label directions.Be aware the stuff smells bad. You may have to apply more than once. To get rid of the flying insects, use yellow or blue sticky cards that gnats are attracted to.

• Peggy Beck

  April 12th, 2007 at 1:09 pm · Reply

  WE HAVE HAD AN ARBICOLA PLANT FOR ABOUT FOUR YEARS NOW AND HAS GROWN ALOT. IS THERE ANY MAINTENANCE TO THESE PLANTS OR PRUNING? SOME OF THE BRANCHES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE PLANT SEEM FULLER THAN THE OTHER SIDES. CAN YOU HELP WITH ANY SUGGESTIONS OF PLANT CARE! THANKS ALOT! PEGGY

  I am presuming that you are growing it as a houseplant. To get a even growth rotate your plants a quarter turn periodically so that it gets even light exposure. If you want to prune away some of the taller “wilder” stems you can trim up to 1/3 of the plant. You can also pinch it back during the growing season to keep growth under control. Feed it during active growth with 1/2 strength fertilizer that includes trace minerals.

• Sandy Krauser

  April 12th, 2007 at 1:11 pm · Reply

  Hi Kris-enjoy your website! I live in OH zone 5 and my Queensland Umbrella plant is full of tiny little ants. Help!! I had it outside during the summer and just now noticed them, they are mostly in the tray-how do I get rid of them w/out harming the plant. Thanks-Sandy Krausher

  Seems like the ant have found a home in your plant. You can do one of two things: 1) repot the plant and remove the soil with the ants. 2) use an insecticidal soil drench and soak the soil to eliminate the ants. Keep the plant on the dry side, the ants like it moist. When purchasing the soil drench be sure it is registered for indoor plants and safe to use indoors

  .

• Nancy Newell

  April 12th, 2007 at 1:14 pm · Reply

  Could you tell me the night time temperatures the following plants are able to be allowed to remain outdoors in the summer ??

  pointsetta
  mandevilla
  colius
  shamrock
  and any type of hard green leaf plants from the indoors ??
  thanks for the help.. enjoy this site very much

  Hi Nancy,
  The mandevilla, pointsettia and tropical houseplants will tolerate night temperatures in the high 40’s-50, Coleus and shamrock can stand temps up to 40. Prolongated periods of cold temperatures will affect the plants.

• Jeannie

  January 7th, 2008 at 8:58 am · Reply

  I transplanted an anthurium into a pot twice the size. I put the pot outdoors in the summer all the leaves turned brown i cut them off and took it indoors. It is taking a very long time to grow and does not flower. What did i do wrong?

  When transplanting use a pot that is 1inch larger than the current pot-too large of a pot can lead to all kinds of potential problems, water-log, root rot. Furthermore, anthurium will bloom when they are potbound so be patient and they will eventually bloom again.

• Michelle Godin

  January 7th, 2008 at 9:00 am · Reply

  what type of soil should an anthurium be planted in? I’ve got mine in orchid mix and it doesn’t seem to be doing well.

  There are different types of orchid mix, this one should have extra spagnum moss w/charcoal added or a well-drained peaty soil is recommended. The soil should be kepts moist but not soggy at all times. They do like bright light, high humidity and warm temperatures(no lower than 60 during the day) to flower

• Anne Chrisman

  January 18th, 2008 at 4:01 pm · Reply

  I received an arbicola about a month ago. Every day it droops more & leaves fall off, some are turning brown. What can I do to bring it back to life?

  Your arboricola (Schefflera arboricola, Umbrella Tree) is adjusting to the drastic change in environment. It is a tropical plant that is used to bright light and high humidty. Now is it in lower light and dry air causing the browning and leaf drop. It is adjusting to its new environment. Increase the humidity by using a humidifier or place the plant on a moist pebble tray. Also try to increase the light exposure. It should perk up and send out new growth in the spring.

• Drenda

  April 11th, 2008 at 1:58 pm · Reply

  2007-
  Drenda
  I have a Pigmy Date Palm and the cold has burnt the branches. Do I trim the branches all the way back to the trunk and if so when should I trim them back?

  Because browning foliage can translocate nutrients to younger leaves, remove the branches when they are dead (brown) and trim them close to the stem. You can trim off the brown tips if the plant looks unsightly

  I want you to know I really appreciate your website. You are a lot of help. I have 2 Pigmy Date Palms and the frost caused the branches to turn brown and die. I fertilized the trees in March. They are starting to get new branches and I can see more new growth in the middle of the trees but they are coming out very slow and some of them have brown spots. Is this normal for these trees. When should I fertilize again? Again thank you for your help.

  Hi Drenda
  Pigmy date palms are slow growers. Aside from insect infestation and diseases, palms can have several nutritional deficiencies (lack of K, Mn, Fe, Mg, N and B)in which some can exhibit brown spots. At any rate, fertilize the trees with a palm tree fertilizer 3 times a year- starting in April, June and finishing in August. It should take care of any nutrient deficiencies.

• Ray

  September 18th, 2008 at 10:27 am · Reply

  I have 3 Orchids that have stopped flowering. I have re-potted them in a ready orchid mix, in clear pots, & placed them near a brightly lit window. Is there anything else I should do? When should I resume feeding the plants? (They are all Phals) A 4th Orchid has repeatedly bloomed without repotting or anything special, & the creamy blooms are gorgeous & large! So with the others, am at a bit of a loss as they have no new spikes, but healthy leaves & roots.
  Thanks!

  Hi Ray
  Sounds like you’re doing great! Make sure your phals are not in direct sun or it will scald the leaves. You should feed your orchids on a regular basis since the potting media has little nutrients. Use an orchid fertilizer or balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at half strength every two weeks or (weakly, weekly=1/4 strength). I fertilize more in the summer growing season. Repotting should be done after bloom or in the spring. I wouldn’t worry about new flower spikes just yet, as long as your phalaenopsis have new healthy leaves and roots, they’re doing fine. Normally, cool fall nights (55F) will encourage the plant to initiate new spikes.
  Now, here’s a plant tip about the flower spike. When the last flower falls off and the plant is done blooming, cut the spike at the first or second node. This can stimulate a secondary spike to develop and produce more flowers extending your blooming time even longer. If phals are in a happy environment they can bloom for months. Enjoy!

• Ray

  March 26th, 2009 at 7:58 am · Reply

  I have a Phal for over 2yrs that is continuously in bloom! I have yet to cut the original spike down & all the new growths have been have been from each subsequent spike. It has grown horizontally, upto 2ft sideways from the original stem. The blooms are quite large & atleast 4 to 5 per growth. It is currently blooming again for the 4th time & I was wondering if there is anything I should be doing to make it more manageable. It is also in its orig pot & I can see lots of green roots, but the plant has not yet heaved out of the pot, so to speak! I am loath to cut down the orig stem, fearing I might not get another growth for a long time. Since the plant & its blooms have always been healthy, should I just leave well alone? Another plant given at the same time, bloomed furiously for 18mths & when I finally re-potted it, it died on me; so you can imagine my fear! Thanks for your comments on helping me hold on to this wonderful specimen

  Hi Ray,
  I would leave well enough alone. I have repotted Phalonopsis orchids and they never seem to re-adjust well. It sounds like you have a great environment for them. You can feed with 1/2 strength fertilizer when it starts to grow new leaves so that it gets more nutrients. I would not consider repotting until it stop blooming.

• Ray

  March 30th, 2009 at 9:15 am · Reply

  Thanks for re-assuring me on my orchid care! Yes, I do seem to do well with them & have infact been given friends’ plants which have not bloomed after the 1st time, & cared them into re-blooming!
  Thanks again for your advice.

• Ray C

  July 26th, 2009 at 8:07 am · Reply

  Is it possible to split a anthurium,because it is getting to big for my pot.

  HI Ray
  Yes, they can be divided. Knock the plant out of the pot and split the large root clump and replant in fresh soil. Each division should have ample roots. If you have any offshoots, simply separate them from the mother plant and replant as well. Make sure your offshoots have some roots on it. Keep your newly divided plants moist (not wet) and in a protected area away from direct sun until they are established.

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