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52 comments to Calla Lilies

• Kris

  September 19th, 2006 at 6:03 am · Reply

  I purchased Callas Lillies, but they are doing poorly. After bringing them home, they wilted, and although I have green folage, I have no lillies. What “Lillies” that do grow, are the same color as the follage. I live in New York. Pots are well drained. Help.

  It may need more sun to develop blossom color. In cooler climates full sun promotes a brighter bloom. Also, feed it with a balanced fertilizer every 2 wks when flowering. When it stops flowering feed it monthly. If your plant is starting to wane, it is possible that it is starting to go dormant. They bloom in spring and summer and start to slow down in the fall.

• lee allen

  November 18th, 2006 at 10:54 am · Reply

  Do I cut spent blooms from my calla lillies or let them dry on the plant. I want to encourage the best bloom next season. I live in Southern CA.

  Thanks, Lee

  Yes, remove the spent flowers. They will just drain energy from the plant.

• Sarah

  April 16th, 2007 at 8:43 am · Reply

  Rotting bulbs

  Every attempt I have made at growing calla lilies in our garden has resulted in foul smelling rotted bulbs. We live in the coastal south and they should do well here. I have tried different locations, amended the soil, and reduced watering but to no avail. What am I doing wrong? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

  Calla lily are susceptible to several “rotting” diseases, bacterial soft rot, crown rot, root rot (Phytophthora richardiae) and storage rot (Pythium ultimim). The tubers may be infected when you buy them. Some suppliers treat them with a fungicide before shipping them out. Keep in mind that white callas and colored callas have slightly different growing requirements.

• Tamela Hill

  June 19th, 2007 at 5:36 am · Reply

  Fungal disease
  I have calla lilies planted in a pot that gets great sun. I keep them moist and I will admit since there has been some rain in our area they have been really wet for only a couple of days. Even before we got the rain my leaves were turning yellow and the bottoms of the stalks really mushy. I would be able to pull them out of the pot with little effort and the ends were rotting and mushy. I have pics if you want to see. This is only happening in one pot. Can you tell me what is wrong? I have two pots and the other is producing great leaves and only 2 flowers. I got the flowers 2weeks ago and there are about 15 stalks left to bloom. Is this a fungus? is it a slug? Or could it be too wet? I can drill more holes in the pot. What about miracle grow? Is that a fertilizer? If not then what kind should I get and when should I use it? Thank you for your time.

  Most likely the one calla lily is suffering from a fungal disease due to too much water. They should be kept moist but not wet. It probably will not survive. Miracle grow is an all-purpose fertilizer that can be used on the callas as well as any other well balanced fertilizer (10-10-10). Use it every 2 wks during the growing season and follow manufacturer’s recommendation on the dosage. Later in the season when the foliage starts to turn yellow reduce watering and let the plant dry out. Store the tubers at 45F and replant next spring.

• Eileen G

  June 28th, 2007 at 9:40 pm · Reply

  I have had my Calla Lilies planted in ground for about a year now and have not experienced any problem until now. The leaves are turning yellow, some of the stems seem to be weak, and the strangest thing is that each flower is producing 2-3 short and fat yellow spikes. The flowers aren’t giving off any horrible smell – what could be the problem? Thanks for your input.

  This has been a baffling question. It is difficult to say what is going on without seeing it but here are some theories from two different expert sources. 1. There may be some sort of pest eating the rhizome or roots. Your callas may have inadvertently been exposed to herbicide drift or indirect application(weed & feed the grass) causing the short fat yellow spikes. If so water to dilute the chemical and eventually it will recover. Also if its been a wet season, all that water could be causing a root rot or the plant lost a lot of nutrients and needs fertilizer to strenghten the stems. 2. The other possibility is: after several years in the same location, they can develop a virus that cannot be easily cured. A lot to think about.

• bill & joyce haworth

  July 10th, 2007 at 10:33 am · Reply

  Calla Lilies. Should the “seed pods” that accumulate in the bloom be dried or can they be planted immediately ?

  When the seed pod matures, it should turn yellow and become soft and mushy. This can take several months. They are usually ready in the fall. If you pick it before it matures the seeds will not be viable. You can remove the seeds by pinching or squishing each berry between your fingers which can hold 1-5 sticky seeds. At this point you can either plant the seeds in moistened potting soil or store them in the refrigerator until you are ready to plant. Another way is to let the whole “seed pod” dry until it turns a orange, gold or light green color. Clean off the fleshy coating and take out the seeds. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place (frig) until you are ready to plant.

  how to plant calla lilly seeds

  Push the seeds into well-drained soil 1/4″-1/2″ deep and 1/2″ apart. Keep the soil moist and at a temperature of 70-80 degrees. Germination can take 30-90 days. Transplant seedlings when after they have developed 2-3 leaves.

• Danae

  August 13th, 2007 at 6:40 am · Reply

  My callas lily plant produces foliage, but for two years no blooms. I live in northern New Jersey and grow it indoors in a north window. This year it produced one bloom which started out white and then turned dark green with purple edges. The bloom and foliage grew too high and the bloom is drooped over. I cut it back every fall and let it rest. I have not repotted the plant since I received it (2 years). What can I do to encourage multiple new blooms and healthy growth? Why is my plant growing so high? Thank you so much.

  Being in a north window, your calla probably doesn’t get enough light producing a leggy weak stem. You don’t mention fertilizer. If they have been in the same soil for 2 years chances are the tubers are worn out and nutrients need to be replenished. Do you let the foliage die back before you cut it back? If not, this is an important procedure because the leaves replenish the tuber with nutrients. Next year after dormancy, repot in fresh soil which will initially supply new nutrients and when the leaves open then start feeding with an balanced fertilizer every 2 wks.

• Peggy Hartline

  August 19th, 2007 at 9:17 am · Reply

  I have read all the calla lilly Q’s & A’s and if fertilization is not the answer, I still don’t have it. My plants have been in the ground for approx. 3 years. The blossoms are prolific, but green, with seed pods too heavy for the stalks, thus droopy. I have babies coming up everywhere, but no beautiful color. Please give a specific answer for Shelbyville, TN growing zone (Middle TN), and preferable fertilizer to rejuvinate the splendid colors I miss so much! Thank you!

  It sounds like your calla lilies may need more sun. In warmer climates they should be grown in part shade but your lilies may not be getting enough sun to enhance flower color. Warm temperatures and low light can cause elongated stems. Try feeding them with a 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 every other week during the active growing season-starting in spring or balanced fertilizer 10-10-10 once a month.

• karin

  December 27th, 2007 at 8:00 pm · Reply

  I live in south Florida and I just bought 3 yellow calla lillies in pots. What is the best care for them? Should I keep them in pots or plant them in the ground? What do you mean by “resting”? Do all of the leaves die and then all I have is a bare pot?

  Enjoy them in their containers indoors in a bright filtered light and plant them outdoors whenever you want in zone 9-10. Plant them in rich moist soil in semi shaded area. The resting (dormant)period comes when the plant stops blooming and starts to slow down producing less leaves and yellowing leaving until most leaves die back. In this process they are replacing nutrients back to the rhizomes for next seasons growth. In Florida it may happen when the weather gets too hot, they will die back and “rest” for a few months and then come back when its cooler.

• Maureen

  February 27th, 2008 at 5:04 am · Reply

  I purchased a Calla Lily plant in bloom 2 weeks ago. It is a deep colored smaller variety and was grown here in Florida. It has produced several more bloom spikes indoors. Some of the older ones seemed to be drooping. I only have low level light inside so decided to place it on my front porch where it would get 2 hours of early morning sun. All the flower spikes (new and old) tightened up almost like a pencil I can barely see any color at all. The new spikes have not formed color yet. I brought it back inside where it has been for 2 days but the stamens have not re-opened.
  I’m baffled,
  Maureen

  Hi Maureen

  Your Callas need more light. They bloom best in bright indirect light which is more than 2 hrs. (closer to 6 hrs.) It will still form flowers but not the color you want. Give it more light and feed it every other week with a 5-10-10 fertilizer.

• maurica massey

  March 2nd, 2008 at 11:58 am · Reply

  I live in Georgia I purchased 3 potted Lavender Calla Lilies from
  the wholesale green house in Atlanta this weekend. They are blooming and are very hardy, can I plant these in a planter in doors? If so what kind and where should I place them and how should I water and feed them? Also what should I expect after they quit blooming and what do I need to do and can I keep them in the house year round as a house plant?

  A potted Calla lily will usually bloom for 6-8 weeks. Indoors they prefer bright indirect light in the winter months and partial shade in the summer with temperatures of 60-75F in the winter/spring. Cooler temperatures will help the plant and flowers last longer. Keep the sandy, well-drained soil evenly moist but not soggy. Soggy soil can lead to a fungus rot that affects the roots and rhizomes. During active growth and blooming, feed your Calla every 2-3 weeks with a well-balanced fertilizer. Colored callas are planted in the spring and bloom in summer then go dormant in the fall. When the plant stops blooming continue to feed & water it until the leaves start to yellow and die back, then reduce watering and let the soil dry. Clip off all brown foliage and store the slightly moist pot in a cool (42-45F), dry place for a resting period of 10 wks or more. This period is important for tuber renewal. They can be stored as long as 8-10 months. In late winter/spring, replant the tuber in fresh, loose soil for spring/summer blooms.

• Jean Seiffert

  March 17th, 2008 at 5:28 am · Reply

  My calla lily bulbs are sprouting and it’s still too cold to put them outside. I have too many for pots. What do I do?

  If you can’t plant them in pots, put them in a large container/box filled with slightly damp peat moss/perlite -just enough to keep them from drying out. Place the sprouts upright so they don’t get injured. Keep the container in the coolest place (basement, cellar, garage) you have and away from light. Cool temps will slow your calla bulbs down until you are ready to plant. Wait until the danger of frost has passed in your area before you plant them outdoors.

• amalia valko

  April 20th, 2008 at 12:46 pm · Reply

  I live in Ct. # years ago purchased Calla Lillies for container. they bloomed that year. In the fall I removed them from the soil and stored as recomemded. The next year only 2-3 bloomed out of 15. The next year I repeated the proses and only 2-3 again bloomed. The bulbs look heathly enough. Question is what am I doing wrong for so few blooms. Thank you Amalia

  Hi Amalia
  Post flowering is the most important time for Calla lilies to build up energy for the next season’s bloom. They need to continue to produce leaves and be allowed to die back. They also need to be fed with a balanced all-purpose fertilizer during that time. Other factors that cause lack of flowers is not enough light, too much water-overwatering can rot the bulb and finally “worn out” bulbs. As with most bulbs, when grown in a container much energy is used to produce flowers and if there is not enough bulb restoration it will only produce what it can-leaves.

• Jessie

  May 6th, 2008 at 9:26 am · Reply

  Soft rot
  I bought a potted Calla Lily plant at a local farmer’s market. I was told it would work in my no window, fluorescent light office… but 2 weeks later the leaves are turning yellow and oozing a clear chemical that smells like cleaning alcohol. There are two flowers on the plant that seem to be flourishing, but the smell is giving me a headache and leaving clear liquid on my desk. HELP! What am I doing wrong?

  Hi Jesse
  It may be a soft rot caused by a bacteria Erwinia bacterium) that gives off a smelly odor from the rotting bulbs. Soft rot will cause the stems to turn soft near the soil and the stems to fall over. The plant wilts and dies. If you dig up the bulbs, they will be soft and mushy. The bacteria likes hot temperatures and lots of moisture to thrive.

• Eileen

  May 11th, 2008 at 1:38 pm · Reply

  I live in southern California and have 6 large established calla lillies. They are in a semi shade location with good drainage. They’ve bloomed and while blooming began to flop over so that the entire plants are flat on the ground. My neighbor has a garden full of calla lillies that are standing tall but they are in a sunnier location. Could that be the problem?

  Hi Eileen
  A sunnier location will make a difference. If a plant doesn’t get enough of its required light then it develops weak, elongated stem that tend to flop over. Another factor is too much nitrogen will produce weak elongated stems and leaves. Also, you mentioned good drainage, -could the soil be drying out too much?

• angela

  May 24th, 2008 at 2:40 pm · Reply

  Hi, My Mom just sent me 4 huge long bulbs from northern Michigan that she bought. One bulb has 3 major big bulbs – actaully looks like 3 big bulbs attached in one. They are supposed to be red leaf Calla Lillies. I have never planted nor divided them and I have no idea. I have read many differing things online – please help. How far down and how to separate and if to separate. Thank you.

  Hi Angela
  I believe you are referring to canna bulbs. These are fleshy tuberous roots that you dig up in the fall and store for the winter because they are hardy in zone 9-10. When dividing them, each section of the tubers should have 2-5 “eyes” or buds. You can plant them directly in the ground 3-4 inches deep and 1 1/2 -2 ft. apart when soil temperature is 65F. Also see summer blooming bulbs

• Julie

  May 28th, 2008 at 2:25 pm · Reply

  Hi, I planted 2 calla lilies about 3 months ago. They were just beautiful and doing great. A couple of days ago I noticed they were falling over. I noticed the stems are spitting at the bottom. I found a slug on both of them at the bottom of the stems. I believe this is my problem but I do not know how to safely be rid of them or if the slugs are NOT the problem, what might be? Thanks for you help.

  Hi Julie
  Click here for slug solutions. Also be aware of soft rot (see above question).

• Ray

  June 1st, 2008 at 10:58 am · Reply

  I bought a calla lily bulb & followed planting instructions as included. All I got was 2 green leaves! Once they turned brown & died, I left the pot to “rest” for many weeks & then re-potted in fresh soil. Again I now have large leaves with white spots, but no sign of flowers. Reading the above comments, I will get a balanced fertiliser, but in the meantime, would love to hear what else I can do. Or must not do! I live in a north-facing apartment, with lots of light, and the pot is a foot away from the window. Please help!
  Thanks.

  Hi Ray
  It sounds like the calla bulbs were slow from the start. Two green leaves are not healthy, vigorous growth and not much went back into the bulb, fertilizing every 2 wks will help stimulate new growth during the summer. Now you have a few more leaves but to get it to send out flowers your will need lot of morning sun light (an east/south window). Without enough sun, you will get little or no flowers.If you can move it to a sunnier spot it might help. Make sure the water drains from the bottom of the pot and be careful not to overwater-too much can cause the bulb to rot. If nothing happens this time,you can assume that the bulbs are worn out and poor quality.

• Patsy Green

  June 20th, 2008 at 8:32 am · Reply

  Flower countI have golden yellow calla lilies in a clay pot in full sun. They have started to bloom, with beautiful 15 inch stems and 4 inch flowers. I have 2 blooms on each flower. Does cutting the flowers effect the number of blooms on each plant?

  Hi Patsy
  No cutting the flowers will not affect the amount of flowers produced. In fact, if you let the flowers go to seed, then the plant may produce less flowers because it is using its energy for seed production. The number of blooms depends on how healthy the plant is, the size of the tuber and variety-a larger tuber will produce more flowers, the shorter potted varieties will produce more blooms when compared to the tall fresh cut varieties.
  Source; http://www.calla-lilies.com/gardencallainfo.cfm

• Rebecca

  July 1st, 2008 at 6:34 pm · Reply

  I have a Calla Lily growing outside in a container. It has not flowered, but it has many green leaves. Today while watering I noticed some holes in the leaves and small black wormlike bugs on the leaves. Any ideas what they could be?

  Hi Rebecca
  The two main insects that attack callas are thrips and aphids but they would not chew holes in the leaves. My guess is that it is some kind of caterpillar or slugs chewing on the leaves. If you can collect one, take it to your local extension office and see if they can identify it for you.

• Kay Smith

  July 5th, 2008 at 5:57 pm · Reply

  My callas have produced many blooms. Some have not opened and the stems fall over. I feed with fertilizer. Have some in morning sun and others in afternoon sun. All seem to bloom well, but some have the above problem. Some have a pod in them. Is this a seed pd from which more bulbs or cormers can grow? Also, how do I get rid of Japanese beetles?

  Hi Kay
  The pods on the callas are seed pod. See above comments for planting. Japanese beetles are becoming a real pest.

• linda

  August 24th, 2008 at 2:59 pm · Reply

  Fungal rot
  My calla lilies were planted earlier this year got them from a nursery now that they have been in the ground many of the plants leaves are turning yellow and getting mushy is this normal before they need to go dormat? Should I try and pull them out to see if the bulb is all rotted or should I wait until all of the plants die off for the year?

  Are these white or colored callas? Colored callas will go dormant but the leaves should not get mushy. Soft, mushy leaves indicate some type of soft rot caused by a fungal pathogen. Some of the symptoms are yellow wilted leaves, rolled up leaves and leaves that collapse (fall over) at the base of the plant. Pull out one of the tubers and see what’s happening. If they are rotting they may also give off an odor.

• Frank Weeks

  September 19th, 2008 at 12:07 pm · Reply

  I have a water garden. Early summer I bought a Water Calla. I followed the instructions and have had beautiful green leaves no flowers. Now as winter approaches I read that they can be easily wintered in house. However it doesn’t tell the process can you help? I live in RI. Thanks Frank

  Hi Frank
  The water calla is a bog plant belonging to Zantedeschia Aethiopica species which produces beautiful white flowers. It grows differently than the colored calla lily in that it likes soggy soil and keeps its leaves. To bring it indoors, dig it up and pot it in pre-moistened well-drained soil. After planting keep it in a shaded area either outdoors or indoors for a few days. This will give the plant time to adjust to transplanting, then place in a sunny window(South) and keep the soil evenly moist.

• Leslie Bell

  September 21st, 2008 at 8:49 am · Reply

  Divide callas
  I live in north Alabama and have several colors of calla lilies in my garden. this is the fourth year they have been in the ground and they did not bloom very much so i was going to separate them. it is late Sept. when should i separate, how do i store them. also if i can do it now,can i replant them now (Sept) and them be ok for next year?

  Hi Leslie
  You can divide and transplant your calla lilies in the fall or spring. Wait for the foliage to turn brown and die back. Once they are dormant in late fall, divide and replant them at the same height they were growing. Perhaps a new setting will encourage them to bloom more. Be sure they get well drained rich soil and full to part shade.

• Josie

  October 8th, 2008 at 8:35 am · Reply

  I bought a calla lily on mother’s day this year. It has done really well. I had it outside over the summer and now that it is cooler here in PA I brought it indoors. I have notices these little gnat type bug in the soil. What are they and What should I do about them? Help Me Please.

  HI Josie
  It may be that your calla lily has fungus gnats which thrive in moist soil.

• Theresa

  October 18th, 2008 at 11:15 am · Reply

  I have a bed of calla lilies that I want to clear out but they keep coming back. How do I get rid of them for good in that bed…they have taken over.

  Hi Theresa
  Wow, that’s a problem people in other parts of the country would like to have -too many calla lilies.
  You need to dig up the tubers and remove even the tiny bits. Try to get as much as you can, any bit of leftover will start to grow next spring. When new shoots emerge,pull them out again. Lay down heavy plastic or newspapers to kill off any new growth. Another option is to spray the leaves with round-up which should eventually kill the tubers. It may take more than one season to get this done . Your persistence should pay of.

• Rodney

  October 29th, 2008 at 11:35 am · Reply

  Storing calla lily

  HI: I have several small Calla lily corms from past growing season. Should they be allowed to rest 8 to 12 weeks or may the be successfuly restarted after drying until hardend? It is now October in the Mid-West; hard freeze has come with a Last Frost Date of May 15th. Thank you for a very informative Web Site. R

  Hi Rodney
  Calla lily should be allowed to “rest” for at least 10 weeks and as long as 8-10 months. They need time to rebuild energy for the next growing cycle. You can start them indoors in a container after the dormant period or wait till the last frost date to plant them outdoors. Store the “bulbs” in a cool, dark, ventilated area during the winter and periodically check the tuber for shrinkage.

• Jane Snyder

  November 2nd, 2008 at 1:27 pm · Reply

  Dividing callas
  I live in northern Ohio and dig up my bulbs for the winter. I had great foilage this past summer, but few blooms. The bulbs are huge. I want to divide them, but don’t know how to proceed. What do I do?

  Hi Jane
  Are these white large callas or smaller colored hybrid callas? The white ones Zantedeschia aethiopica produce large tuberous rhizomes. Like cannas, calla lily rhizomes can be cut into sections that contain at least one to two eyes. Do this in the spring and then replant outdoors. If the are colored they produce flat, wafers and can be dug up and stored in a cool place and plant them again in spring.

• Sheri

  November 17th, 2008 at 11:36 pm · Reply

  I live in Ventura, CA (coastal SoCal). Our gardener sprayed our invasive calla lilies with Round-up (twice) last spring to kill them off before our yard was re-landscaped. Now they’re growing back, and in more places than ever! Round up is only killing the plants around the lilies–the lilies are doing fine. I really want the lilies gone! I think our gardener is frustrated, too…he’s avoiding us. Any suggestions–short of redoing the entire yard again?

  Hi Sheri
  Other than mechanical digging and removing every bit, I don’t know of any effective chemical remedy that a homeowner can use. You might want to contact your local extension office and see what they recommend. Make sure that they aren’t allowed to bloom or produce seeds and keep moving them down as soon as they emerge, eventually they will run out of energy to grow. It may take more than a year to get rid of them.

• heather

  November 23rd, 2008 at 1:20 pm · Reply

  I live in Ohio Zone 6 and I have just dug up my calla lilly bulbs. I have 2 bulbs which produced 1 purple and 1 pink flower. I am not sure how to seperate them or when. I have read this and you mention “eyes”. What exactly are those and what do they look like? I am new to gardening so I don’t really know the true terms. How would I store them? Right now, they are completely in tact in a box in my basement. I cut back the foliage although they still have a lot left. I have cleaned them up, removing the dirt. I don’t want to cut off the greens because I’m afraid to kill them. I don’t know how or where to cut. Thanks!

  HI Heather
  What you can do is take the bulbs, spread them out on newspaper and let them dry out for a couple of days. The roots and leaves should dry up as well, them cut or pull them off. All you really want to store is the bulb itself. Once dry, store the cured bulb in peat moss, vermiculite or sawdust in a dry, ventilated location around 40-50 degrees. Periodically, check the bulb for shrinkage and rot. If they appear shriveled, moisten the medium a bit. They will rot if kept too wet. There are two kinds of Calla, one produces a elongated tuber which has “eyes” which are knobs of growth points which will be prevalent in spring and bulbs. Yours are flattened bulbs that are not divided.

• Ray

  November 27th, 2008 at 8:40 am · Reply

  Store calla lily bulbs
  My potted Calla is now in its dormant stage- leaves browned & I cut off all foliage. Do I need to keep the pot moist thru this period? & for how long before it need to be re-started?
  Thanks!

  Hi Ray
  Store your calla lily in a cool, dry place around 45-50F. Water occasionally (once a month) just to keep the bulb from completely drying up. The meduim should be slightly damp-too wet will rot the bulb. The minimum storage time is 10 weeks but they can be stored as long as 8-10 months.

• karen

  December 19th, 2008 at 12:59 pm · Reply

  My parents live in Southern California and have calla lilies in several locations. All seem healthy, but one bed in the front of their house does not look right. The calla lily leaves in this bed are not growing upright, they are growing sort of knarled and twisted together like a bowl of spaghetti. Do you have any idea what might be causing this and what, if anything, can be done to correct it? Thanks so much!

  Hi Karen
  It may be a phenomena called fasciation in plants. Fasciation is a malformation fusing of stems, flat ribbon-like and curling stems. It can be caused by genetics (mutation), bacteria (Rhodococcus fascians,) herbicide drift, physical injury and rapid growth. http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/index.html#http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/fascia.html

  Fasciation
  I purchased some calla lily bulbs and all bloomed beautifully. But after I cut the blooms from my pink plant the blooms and stems are coming up kind of flat, not round. One even has a bloom inside of a bloom. I feed them with miracle grow. I water accordingly. What can the problem be? Thanks.

• Tina

  February 25th, 2009 at 6:20 am · Reply

  I have a calla lily growing in my home. It has small water like dropplet on the tips of the leaves, it has no odor to it though. I was wondering what might be causing this. I also have cats and have heard that it can harm them. Please help me should I move plant outside or keep it inside. I have flowers but they are not opening.

  The droplets are water that is transpiring from the leaves. Calla lily is listed as a poisonous house plant and poisonous to cats (www.cfainc.org).Move the plant outdoors if you can.

• Sarah

  February 25th, 2009 at 9:47 am · Reply

  Storing calla for winter
  When my calla goes into the dormant phase during the winter months (I live in Indiana) Should I take the “bulbs” out of the dirt and store them in the open air? Would you recommend leaving them in the dirt?

  Hi Sarah
  I’m asuming that your calla is in a pot indoors not outside. Before storing your callas, they should be air-dried @ 60F for 3 weeks. Once cured, store them dry in a cardboard box or ventilated container in a layer of shredded newspaper , sand or peat moss. Store in a cool, dry spot at 40-50F like a basement. Periodically check on the tuber to make sure they are not rotting. If they start to shrink and wrinkle, moisten the peat moss a bit. A wet medium will rot the tuber. You can store them potted in peat soil-keep the soil dry.

• Ray

  March 23rd, 2009 at 8:41 am · Reply

  I took my Calla out of storage about a month ago & began watering once every week to 10days. It has sprouted about an inch above the soil & the pot is in a shaded spot with little light in my room, with temps max at 70F. A couple quesns I have are – should I have re-potted the bulb in fresh soil? Is it too late now to re-pot? Should the pot be moved to a brighter spot, near a window perhaps? It is still too cold out (-8C at nite) to place it on my north-facing balcony. Lastly, when should I begin to fertilise it & is Miracle Gro all-purpose fertiliser adequate?
  Would appreciate your advice on all the above, as I am trying to re-grow the bulb I got 2yrs ago, that has yet to see a single flower!

  Hi Ray
  You can still repot the calla lily and move it to a sunny spot. Calla lily needs rich soil, bright sun and moisture to grow well.(Don’t overwater) No need to fertilize if in new soil, there should be
  enough nutrients to keep it going for a while. Too much Nitrogen will encourage more leaf growth and no flowers. Fertilize after its done blooming. Place it outdoors during warm days and bring it at night when temperatures get in the 30’s. Miracle grow is fine.

• Daniel

  April 27th, 2009 at 4:11 pm · Reply

  I just purchased 4 calla lily plants from home depot. I really just wanted one, but bought more just incase a few might not make the transplant. I live in Seattle and things here aren’t axactly warm yet. They didn’t look fantastic when purchased and it has only been a few weeks since I purchased them. Two of them have leaves going yellow and the flowers seem to be going out. All of them have leaves that have that wrinkle affect going on. I know that a transplant can be fairly unpredictable as to how it will react, but I wanted to do everything that I can to encourage a good season and life span for my plants…any advice?

  HI Daniel
  It may be that your calla lilies are done blooming and may be going dormant (resting period).

• erin

  May 10th, 2009 at 6:49 pm · Reply

  i have a potted calla lilly & want to put it in the ground i live in east tennessee is that warm enough to leave in the ground during winter if not what exact steps do i take to keep bulbs for next planting??i don’t have room to keep a entire plant inside especially if it’d dormant it would be an eyesore…………please help i really want to keep it….also if it already bloomed will more come back this year or any other foliage?

  Hi Erin
  You are in zone 7-8. Colored Callas are hardy in zone 8-9 so it may be marginally hardy in your area. Make sure you mulch it well during the winter. Once its done blooming it usually is finished, the foliage slowly dies back naturally. The plant will tell you when its done. It will go dormant for a few months and return usually in early spring.
  The large white callas will hold on to their leaves and grow all summer and are hardy to zone 7.

• Linda

  May 20th, 2009 at 7:15 pm · Reply

  Hi,
  I recently bought some Ruby Calla Lilies that I’m growing in a container in Southern California (near coast). It gets 4 hrs of direct early morning sun, and indirect midday sun. The flowers were a beautiful deep pink when I first got them, but now all the blooms are green and dark purple, and the stems are curving over so that the blooms aren’t upright. Also, the tips of many of the leaves and flowers are dried and brown. They were so pretty – how can I fix these problems? Thank you so much for your help!

• Scott

  June 11th, 2009 at 3:34 pm · Reply

  In an area like Northern California where callas are winter hardy, when is the best time to plant? Thanks.

  ZANTEDESCHIA AETHIOPICA cool-season flowering should be planted in fall. The smaller colored callas in late winter/early spring, they bloom in spring and die back in late summer.

• Ray

  June 21st, 2009 at 8:53 am · Reply

  Hi,
  My Callas have grown tall, almost 2ft & have large,beautiful spotted leaves. I have seen a lot of new leaves unfurling, but no flowers yet. The pot is indoors & I was wondering if I do move it outside to get some direct morning sun, how can I protect it from blustery winds? As mentioned before, I’ve had the plant for 2yrs now & it has never bloomed. I haven’t over-fertilised it at all, doing so sparingly once a month, tops. Would appreciate any advice on what additionally I need to do to get some blooms.

  It sounds like it needs more sun to bloom.
  Thanks!

• Karen

  June 22nd, 2009 at 1:08 am · Reply

  I bought several Flame calla lilies this year from Lowe’s-they were beautifully blooming and beautiful white speckled leaves. Once I planted in the garden, the leaves have turned yellow and the bottom of the stems turn mushy – one leaf at a time. These are labelled blumpforming evergreen perennial, which I thought meant the leaves would stay green ‘evergreen’-year round. After reading so many of the answers above, is it possible they are dying or going dormant? If dying, I want to take Lowe’s up on their money-back guarantee. I asked at one nursery and they thought it looked like borers in the stalks, so I’ve been treating with borer medicine, but still no luck. Thanks.

  Hi Karen
  It sounds like they do have some kinds on bacterial/fungal disease, especially if the stems are turning mushy.

• Annie Wolf

  July 26th, 2009 at 9:47 am · Reply

  I have the same problem at Karen. I purchased severl Calla lilies from Lowes.
  In your answer to her above you stated that it could be some kind off bacterial/fungal disease. What would be helpful is if you told us how we can fix this problem.
  With warm regards,
  Annie

  Hi Annie
  Calla lilies are susceptible to many pathogens. Thrips and aphids as well as bruising or injuring the bulbs can open a path for disease. Once the disease enters the bulb it is difficult to elliminate. If the bulb is soft and mushy, then there is nothing your can do to save it. Many growers pre-treat with a broad spectrum fungicide (a combination of fungicides) when planting callas as a preventative. You would have to check at your garden center for which ones are available (Kocide, ChampII flowable) and how they are applied.

• Cathy

  July 26th, 2009 at 5:22 pm · Reply

  Hi
  I bought my yellow calla lillie from Costco in At the beginning of May. It had many blooms and was thriving well. I planted it in the ground in full nice and water it daily. I am on the West Coast near Vancouver BC.
  the blooms stopped opening around mid June and would go limp. The leaves are doing well still, no yellowing or turning brown as with the blooms. They’re just not opening. I just don’t understand what’s happening. Should I be cutting the blooms that are drooping and not opening?
  Thanks

  Hi Cathy
  Warmer temperatures can cause the stems to elongate and flowers to droop. For best bloom, callas prefer cool temps and bright light. Be careful not to overwater them. In many cases flowers fail to open when the plant is under some kind of stress. I would cut off the drooping flowers and put them in a vase. See what happens.

• Marilyn

  July 31st, 2009 at 9:29 am · Reply

  Calla hardiness
  This is my first year that I have planted Calla Lillies. They have bloomed beautifully. Do I need to dig up the bulbs for winter or can they stay in the ground like my tulis?

  Hi Marilyn
  Calla lilies are hardy in zone 7-10, otherwise they need to be dug up for the winter.

• Liz

  August 3rd, 2009 at 8:00 am · Reply

  I have had calla lillies growing in my garden for about 5 years now. I planted a variety of colors, but only the white survived. I live in Georgia with mostly clay soil and have never dug them up. They are very dense right now and I was wondering if I should dig them up this fall and divide. If so, can I add in some of the colored ones also to add variety or will they just not grow again? Once planted, I really have not done anything to them in the way of fertilizing, and they have done very well.

  Hi Liz
  The white callas seem to be dominant and most likely will take over again.Why not make you separae beds? It’s a good idea to divide your callas but wait until early spring to do so. Divide when the buds start to swell.

• Kimberly

  September 6th, 2009 at 11:19 pm · Reply

  I’m in San Francisco and just moved into a new place with a cluster of calla lilies growing in a shadier corner of the garden. They had long, weak stems and were lying sideways, on the ground. Half the stems were brown and dead (like the attached flowers), and the other half were still bright green – but many were split at the base, or slimy inside. I pulled out all the dead brown strands – and went ahead and cut off the flopped-over stems which were slimy inside.

  What do you make of it? Some sort of rot? I am a gardening novice, so would love your advice as to next steps. (And was I too hasty in trimming off the flopped stems?) Do we need to dig up & rest the bulbs in San Francisco? Or are these bulbs likely rotted anyway? Shall I try to replant them in a sunnier part of the garden?

  Thanks so much for your help.

• Littleone_da

  October 3rd, 2009 at 3:59 pm · Reply

  Tiny black dots on stems
  I’m in Northern CA East Bay region and the calla bed is mostly sunny. They were doing great until recently, similar to Kimberly’s situation.
  However, at the base of the split stems are tiny black “dots” of bugs. What are these bugs and how do I get rid of them?
  I’m a beginner as well and need some help. Thank you in advance!

  Hi
  Can these black dots be scraped off? They may not be bugs.
  Callas are susceptible to fungal diseases and the dots could be a sign of some type of infection.
  Are the plants weak and wilted? or are they healthy and growing well?

• yveoro

  October 27th, 2009 at 11:50 am · Reply

  Soft slimy spot on tuber
  I was recently given a large calla lily bulb. I finally got the chance to plant the bulb. During the planting process I noticed that one side of the bulb was white and slimy and I did see small worms around it. Is this normal? What can I do to get rid of that part?

  Hi Yveoro
  I’m not sure what the worms are but if the tuber has a soft slimy spot then it is infected with some type of rot which they are often susceptible to. You can try to cut off the soft area and dust it with a fungicide and hope it will heal before you plant it. It may not be worth the effort as the bulb is in a bad state to begin with and you don’t know how much of the tuber is infected. In the end you will be dissapointed with the results. The other option is to throw it out and get a new healthy bulb.
  The tiny worms could be fungus gnat larvae.

• lulu

  February 7th, 2010 at 2:55 pm · Reply

  Hi,
  I was wondering if it was possible to grow calla lilys hydroponically indoors.
  I live in south jersey and since it is currently very snowy here I was wondering what I should do. Also, I wanted to know what nutrients I should give them.
  Thanks!

• sylvia

  February 20th, 2010 at 2:25 pm · Reply

  Hi,
  Several months ago my mother gave me a lovely pink calla that was unwanted but doing well in her neighbor’s Napa garden. I planted in a very large pot outside on my Oakland deck (we’re both Zone 9), but the plant seemed immediately unhappy and gradually drooped, wilted, and eventually had mushy leaves (perhaps rotted from much rain) which have been gone for a month or so now.
  My question: it’s now mid-February and I see lush callas in the stores- should I give up hope of this one coming back?
  Thanks

  Hi Sylvia
  New tubers and future flowers are produced once the plant is done blooming and the leaves continue to grow for about 10 weeks. It sounds as if your plant did not get the chance to do this.
  Because the plant died back so quickly, why don’t you dig it up and see if there is a healthy tuber. I should be firm and hard, free from bruises or soft spots. Too much water can rot the tuber and make it worthless.

• cathy

  February 21st, 2010 at 12:38 pm · Reply

  Calla not showing
  I had a yellow calla lily that I thought we dug up last year but I can’t remember! We live in Vancouver Canada area and have had an exceptionally mild winter. My daffodils are almost ready to bloom. I’m wondering, if in fact I didn’t dig it up, when should I start seeing signs of life if it’s going to come up?

  Hi Cathy
  Calla lilies require a warmer soil temperature than daffodils. They are waiting for warmer weather to venture out. Give them more time.

• tiffany

  March 8th, 2010 at 7:43 am · Reply

  Cold damage
  My husband bought me a calla lily plant a couple of weeks ago. I have been keeping it inside because it has been cold here (coastal NC, zone 8). Well the other day I finally put it outside so that it can get enough light, I forgot about it(i’ve been sick) and when I went to get it this morning, it was all wilted. The leaves weren’t brown, but they were very mushy and fallen over. wilted basically. Could they have been affected by the cold weather? Is there anyway to bring my plant back? it was producing pretty flowers. Thank you.

  Hi Tiffany
  Your calla most likely incurred cold damage. Mushy and fallen over leaves will not perk up. Wait to see if it sends out more leaves, if you don’t see any new leaves in a week, then it’s a goner.

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