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68 comments to Endless Summer Hydrangea

• Mellisa

  January 14th, 2007 at 5:47 pm · Reply

  Winter protection

  I have two Endless Summer hydrangas and live in Vermont, how do you suggest preparing them for the cold winter months?

  Endless summer hydrangea is hardy to zone 4. It blooms on old and new wood so if you have a winter dieback, and you have to prune the plant close to the ground, it will still bloom on the new growth next season. To protect it in the winter you can mulch it with pine bark, leaves. One elaborate way is to trim the blooms and foliage and tie the stalks together and then slip a plastic collar (made from a nursery pot) over the plant and fill it will mulch. Wrap the tied stems with landscape fabric. This will keep the crown and stems snug and cozy for the winter.

• Lynn S

  January 14th, 2007 at 5:49 pm · Reply

  Leaf spot
  I have 5 new hydrangia (endless summer) plants I purchased from a nursery this summer 2005. They seem to be doing fine, blooming ok but they leaves have brown spots on them, it looks like rust. Any ideas what that might be? Thank you.

  The brown spots are caused by a fungus , it is more an aesthetic problem and there is nothing much you can do about this time of year. Fungicides would be ineffective now. Overheat watering, moisture on the leaves, close plantings, high humidity can contribute to the problem. Water at ground level and be sure to remove any infected leaves in the fall as the fungus will winterover and reinfect next year.

• Leslie

  January 16th, 2007 at 8:34 pm · Reply

  I live in central North Carolina and planted 2 endless summer hydrangias last spring. They seemed to have died off early in the summer and I have yet to see signs of life yet this spring. Is it too early to tell or are they not going to come back?

  By now there should have been some signs of life. Scratch the stems and see if there is any green in the cambium layer and check for new growth at the base of the plant. If there is none then they must have died off for some reason.

• Susan

  January 16th, 2007 at 8:43 pm · Reply

  Hydrangea not blooming
  I purchased an Endless Summer hydrangea last summer. It bloomed beautifully last year, wintered well, and has really nice foliage this year, but no blooms. It gets plenty of sun and water, and I haven’t fertilized it (so no over-fertilization). Any thoughts?

  You can over-fertilize and not realize it. If your plant is growing at the edge of a lawn and you fertilize the lawn it will also fertilize your hydrangea because the roots extend far as the plant is tall. Lawn food is high in nitrogen. Another factor that can affect blooming is a severe dry spell or drought in the previous year, especially if its growing in a sunny spot. Hydrangeas do best in full sun in the morning with afternoon shade

  .

• Dawna

  January 16th, 2007 at 8:50 pm · Reply

  I have a nikko blue and know it is suppose to bloom on old wood. Mine never has. It puts on 10″ of new grown and then blooms. It also put up new shoots out of the ground then bloom on the new shoots. I have lived in many states and it is the same everywhere i have lived.. . . what gives? Dawna

  You may have ‘Endless Summer’ or ‘All Summer Beauty’ hydrangea that blooms on old and new wood and produces blue flowers in acid soil.

• Tina Miletich

  January 16th, 2007 at 8:58 pm · Reply

  Pruning
  I have 5 Endless Summer Hydrangeas plants on the side of my house which is partial to full sun. Now that we are going into the winter months here in Chicago Il, I dont know if we ned to cut them all down, to have full bloom and healthy stems for next Spring,,??

  Since they bloom on old and new wood, ‘Endless Summer’ hydrangeas can be pruned after blooming, in spring and fall. It is best to prune them in the spring in case you have some winter dieback which you will need to prune away.

• Chris

  February 13th, 2007 at 7:59 am · Reply

  Can Endless Summer Hydrangas live in large pots?

  Yes, but in colder climates protect the roots from freezing or store the pots in the garage for the winter.

• Mary Lueneburg

  April 11th, 2007 at 9:12 am · Reply

  Cold damage
  My endless summer hydrangeas had leafed out and then it froze – they look dead – any hope that they will come back this season?

  There’s not much you can do for the damaged leaves but cut them off. Hopefully they will be replaced with new growth. Fortunately, endless summer hydrangeas bloom on new wood so you should still get flowers this season.

• jana akers

  May 29th, 2007 at 12:41 pm · Reply

  Where on the stem do you cut for cuttngs to bring in? I noticed the new growth and wondered if you cut above it or count leaves,etc. before cutting?

  Cut above the new growth or you will sacrifice additional flowers.

• Barbara Cummings

  June 12th, 2007 at 6:54 pm · Reply

  Rust
  Hi, I live in Ohio and we are in zone 5 and I have 2 endless summer hydrangea’s. At this time we are going thru a drought in our state but all most all my flowers look ok but the hydrangea’s I bought early this spring. Now I have rust on the leaves. It bloomed fine, except the ht. didn’t grow at all, is there some type of chemical to put on the plants to get rid of the rust, or should I remove the leaves? Is there any way to produce more flowers, as since this was there first season, I still have a few flowers, but was wondering if there was a method on how to produce more. I followed the planting instructions to the “T” so I know they are planted in the right place. If anyone could help I would appreciate I don’t want to lose them thanks. Barbara C.

  Rust is caused by a fungus which can happen when there is extreme dryness or humidity. When a plant gets a fungus it is a response to stressful conditions such as too dry or too wet soil, compacted soil, too much shade, too much nitrogen fertilizer or transplant shock. Best thing to do is to remove and destroy any infected leaves. Keep you plant watered but avoid overhead watering or getting the leaves wet, this will spread the fungus. You can spray with a wettable sulfur -follow manufacturer directions (don’t spray if temps are over 80F) and when the plant is in bloom. Endless Summer hydrangea blooms on old and new wood, so when your plant is well enough to produce more growth, then it should also produce flowers.

• Barbara Cummings

  June 17th, 2007 at 7:49 pm · Reply

  Thanks for the great information on my rust problems for my endless summer hydrangeas. The problem with one is the rust is on most of all of the leaves. I can’t spray anything on them in Ohio it’s in the high 80’s and going to be 91 degrees this week. We are in the middle of a drought. If I remove the rusted leaves I may not have any leaves left on 1 plant, I wouldn’t mind if it came back next year, or should I move it, right now it is facing east under an overhang. The tag when I bought it said shade part sun, and that’s where they both are planted. The other one is at the other end of the overhang in front of the house and now it looks good, after removing rusted leaves. Should I move it, or will it die, I really don’t want to lose it. Thanks Barb C

  For starters spray both plants with a fungicide (Neem oil) when the weather cools down, it will work as a preventative and help control the spread. Its best to apply at dusk avoiding the hot sun. You will have to remove the infected leaves even if you end up with bare stems but with good care some new growth should emerge from the stems. When watering, be sure not to get the leaves wet as that will spread the disease quickly. You may consider moving the plant in the fall to another location so that it gets more air circulation.

• Jan Bay

  June 18th, 2007 at 6:49 pm · Reply

  Color on hydrangea
  I just planted my endless summer hydrangea around Mother’s Day. It gets morning sun & afternoon shade after about 3 pm. I am keeping it well watered daily or every other day. I live in Missouri & we have been dry the past three weeks or so. My question is this: It had beautiful blue blooms to start, now they are turning white. Are you supposed to fertilize at all during the growning season? Or only to start once in the spring? My soil is very clay-like. I’d like to keep the blooms blue. What do I need to give the plant to keep blue blooms? I love this plant & don’t want to kill it! Thanks! JB

  When the flowers mature they will fade to a lighter color. Deadheading the spent flowers will encourage continued blooms. Be sure your soil drains well. To maintain the blue color you need to have a soil ph of 5.2-5.5. If you Endless summer hydrangea is changing to a lavender-pink color then the ph is higher than 5.5. To lower the ph you need to add aluminum sulfate, elemental sulfur, copperas or cottonseed meal. Here is one way I found. Mix 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate to 1 gal of warm water and mix. Water the plant one hour before applying the solution. Slowly pour half of the solution on the soil around your hydrangea, wait a few minutes for it to drain and then pour the rest. If you don’t have acid soil you will have to do this from early spring before bud break throughout growing season, applying the solution every 35-40 days. There are other soil acidifiers available and should be used according to manufacturer’s recommendations. Too much aluminum sulfate can kill the plant. You should have the soil ph tested to see what adjustment need to be done. It may be easier to control the ph if the plant was grown in a container. A lot of work to keep a blue plant.

• Joan

  June 23rd, 2007 at 8:32 pm · Reply

  Transplant shock
  Just bought 2 Endless Summer Hydrangea plants and transferred them to our garden. We feel the instructions provided were followed appropriately; however, they are wilting after 2 weeks and I’m afraid they are not accepting their new environment. All the leaves are wilting and there aren’t any blooms. I really don’t know what to do for these beauties. Please Help. js

  Your plants are in transplant shock and need time to adjust. Keep them mulched to maintain even moisture and somewhat shaded until the roots can support the leaves. Try a transplant root starter(4-16-8) that will help with root development. Keep the plants moist but don’t overwater.

• Bobbi

  July 11th, 2007 at 3:14 pm · Reply

  i have a endless summer that i planted last fall & it is growing well, has lots of green foliage , but only 2 flower buds are forming. I live in Montana & it’s been in the 90’s & above for the last 3 weeks. I water daily and the plant receives morning sun & very little afternoon sun. Is it normal for the plant to only start out with a few flower buds and also can I feed it Schultz plant food 10-54-10 to encourage more blooms? I did fertilize early in the spring with a all purpose fertilizer.
  Thanks,
  Bobbi

  Sometimes the plant is off to a slow start when its hot. A dose of bloom boost or Schultz will help encourage more flowers. Don’t fertilize after Aug.1st. The plant will need time to harden before an early fall freeze.

• Jennifer

  July 15th, 2007 at 8:14 pm · Reply

  I have one Endless Summer Hydrangea that I planted in the spring. It bloomed beautifully and still has the blooms attached, but almost all the stems are lying on the ground. It is almost as if the blooms are too heavy for the stems. Should I deadhead the blooms which are pretty much past? I live in Mass and the weather has been hot, but the plant gets plenty of water.

  Yes, cut off the dead blooms and some of the fresh ones for your vase (if you want). Endless summer blooms on both old and new wood so you don’t have to worry about lightly pruning the plant during the growing season. You may still get more flowers this year. Don’t prune past August, you don’t want to stimulate new growth that will not have time to harden for the winter. Heavy pruning should be done in early spring before growth starts. Pruning will help keep the plant bushier and produce stronger stems.

• jeanne

  July 16th, 2007 at 7:48 pm · Reply

  Planting Hydrangea
  I bought 3 baby endless summer hydrangea’s this spring. I planted one directly in the soil and it died within a few weeks. I planted the other two in pots and they are doing well. One is in a larger pot 15 inches and the other in a smaller pot. I’ve read now that the root system is vigorous and I’m afraid at least the smaller pot may be too small for much continued growth. I eventually want to plant them in the ground. Could you please provide guidance about the best way and time to go about this. I live in southern South Dakota – Zone 4. Thanks!

  You can plant your hydrangea anytime during the growing season but spring & fall is the best time, when temperatures are cooler and there is less heat and water stress on the plant. Don’t plant in the hottest part of summer-if you do keep the plant moist. Be sure to plant 45-60 days before the first expected frost to give the plant some time to get established.
  Planting hydrangea
  Choose a location with morning sun and afternoon shade.
  Plant in moist, well-drained soil. Amend poor soils with compost.
  Dig a hole 2x the size of the rootball and add compost/peat moss and plant at the same soil level as grown in the container.
  Don’t plant under a tree as there will be competition for moisture.

• Gwendolen

  July 23rd, 2007 at 9:41 pm · Reply

  Chlorosis
  I have about 10 Endless summer plants. 4 of them are doing well. The others have no blooms and have turned a very sickly bright green color on the leaves. In spots they are almost white on the foliage. They also have not grown any since spring. Very small around 12 inches tall. I live in Alabama zone 7. I would appreciate any help for these poor plants.

  The bright green color on new growth can indicate a chlorosis from alkaline soil. which can be treated with chelated iron (Ironite) or adding sulfur to the soil. It sounds like they are getting too much sun and the white foliage (which will turn brown) is an indicator of sunscald. Because you live in a warmer climate (Ala) your hydrangea may need more shade to grow well. blockquote>

• M. Pullen

  July 26th, 2007 at 1:55 pm · Reply

  Our new Endless Summer Hydrangia died less than 10 days after planting. It looked a littly droopy just before we left for vacation, so watered it thoroughly. Two days later when we returned, it looked like cooked spinach, and did not surivive. Could it have been over watered? Some friends said it did not have enough water. It was planted in a filtered sunlight (not direct) area on the north side of our home. We have had this same problem with each hydrangia we try – in various locations in our yard – all end up irreversably wilted. What are we doing wrong?

  You might consider the soil and planting procedures. Hydrangeas need rich, well-drained evenly, moist soil. If you have clay soil it will retain a lot of moisture but does not drain freely. Adding organic materials such as peat moss, compost will improve the soil. Good soil preparation is the key to successful growth. When planting make the hole larger than the root ball, 2x is sufficient and add orgainic material. Plant at the same level or slightly higher as grown in the container. Before planting check the roots are they white and healthy? Then gently loosen the roots before placing in the ground. Backfill the soil and be sure not to compact the soil. Water in the plant which will fill in any loose soil. Add 2 inches of mulch over the plants. I suspect that your hydrangeas died from root rot caused by too much water or underwatering (if you have sandy soil). Not knowing which type of soil you have and how much you watered, its difficult to determine but I hope some of this will help.

• Ginger

  August 11th, 2007 at 4:04 pm · Reply

  I am in Ohio where we had a late spring freeze and are now in the midst of a heat wave & drought conditions. I planted my Endless Summer hydrangea last year and it had lovely blooms several times during the summer.
  This year I have healthy green stems & leaves, but not a single bloom. I water it if it seems to be wilting from the heat.
  Do you have any thoughts on why it isn’t blooming and what I should do to ensure blooms next year? Thanks for your help!

  Endless summer hydrangea needs 3 yrs to get established. It looks great the first year when you buy it because growers force the plant with fertilizers and perfect growing conditions so that it looks lush and “bloomy’. Unfortunately the second season doesn’t always perform as well. You might review the site that it is growing in. Does it get full AM and part PM sun?Not enough sun will reduce flowering and the hot weather doesn’t help. The late spring freeze killed the flower buds but the new growth should also produce flowers. Here are some other suggestions to keep in mind for next year. Feed it in spring with a slow-release fertilizer higher in phosphorus (middle #) in the spring. Don’t prune in the fall or early spring until you see leaves sprouting partway down the stems then cut away dead wood above the green growth. This fall,just as the ground freezes, mulch the plant mounding leaves a foot high around the crown of the plant and remove around March.

• Barbara Brace

  August 22nd, 2007 at 6:39 am · Reply

  What is meant by pruning? Is it just the flower? Is it only dead wood? If it is the flower, how far below the bloom do you cut? I have several varieties of Hydrangea in my garden. Thank you

  Pruning is removing both dead wood, spent flowers as well as trimming healthy stems control the size and shape of the plant. If you wan to remove old flowers cut them below the flower head. This way you won’t cut off any flower buds further down the stem. Do this primarily with Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) excluding Endless Summer. If you have an E.S. you can cut it back as much as you want without fear of loosing next years flowers. Different varieties require different pruning practices. For more info go to Hydrangea care

• Kay Densmore

  September 19th, 2007 at 10:54 am · Reply

  My neighbor just planted Endless Summer. She has a bout 5″ or more of mulch close to the plant, what is the proper amount of mulch to use after planting? Should the blossoms be cut after just planting, to encourage root growth? Should any root starter or fertilizer be used at planting?

  Mulching is not required but it helps keep the roots evenly moist and insulates them during the winter. The mulch should be placed away from the plant more on the perimeter. Mulching too close to the plant can invite disease problems. About 3 inches of mulch should be sufficient additional mulch can be added for winter protection. You can leave the flowers as they will not interfere with new root growth. A root starter will help new root growth. Do not use any fertilizer after August 1st. as this would promote new leaf growth that will not have enough time to harden off.

• Diana

  November 14th, 2007 at 11:59 am · Reply

  Transplant hydrangea
  My mom lives in Central Illinois and wants to know if she can transplant her hydrangeas into pots for the winter. She wants to relocate the plants to a different area in her yard next spring.

  Best time to transplant hydrangeas is in early spring before new growth starts or in the fall when the plant is dormant. You can still move it to the other area in the yard . IF you need to pot them up- keep the plants in a dormant stage and store in garage but make sure the roots don’t freeze.

• Lynne

  April 30th, 2008 at 9:39 am · Reply

  I live in Ontario and have a beautiful Endless Summer that is about 3 years old. We are moving in May and I would like to take it with me. How safe is it to tansplant at this time of year? Any suggestions on safe transplanting if you think it would be fine to take with us?
  Thanks Lynne

  It’s better to transplant when the plant is dormant. Spring is a good time to transplant hydrangeas before new growth starts. Since your plant is 3 years old it has an established root system and will go into transplant shock after being moved. The older the plant the more difficult the adjustment will be. If new growth has already started then moving it will be very risky. The plant is using a lot of energy to produce new leaves and disturbing the roots will make it twice as difficult to recover. I’m not sure if it would be worth the effort as you may loose the plant anyway. If you choose to dig it up , get as much of the root ball as possible and plant in the largest container you have or wrap the soil and roots in plastic tarp or burlap and keep moist. It will be heavy. Replant as soon as possible at the same soil level it was growing and water it with a root starter to promote new root growth. Baby the newly planted shrub during the growing season-make sure it has well drained soil and enough moisture.

• kathleen

  May 15th, 2008 at 11:25 pm · Reply

  I bought an E.S. hydrangea earlier this spring and replanted it in a pot and added some fertilizer. The soil is moist but well-drained and the plant gets afternoon sun. The temps where I live have mostly been in the high 70s to low 80s during the day, but they are still pretty cool at night (in the 40s) The blooms were a beautiful blue, but now they are fading and even turning green. Some look wilted. The leaves still look fine. What can I do to revive the flowers? Thanks.

  Hi Kathleen
  The blooms have gone through their blooming cycle and are starting to fade. There’s nothing you can do to revive the flowers. If they are wilting due to lack of moisture then they should perk up after watering, if not then it may be getting to much water. They may last a bit longer in morning sun instead of afternoon. If the plant is under any stress such as not enough water, too much sun or transplanting(root disturbance), the first reaction is exhibited by the flowers, either wilting or falling off. Endless summer hyydrangea should continue to produce more flowers throughout the season.

• Louise Brink

  June 17th, 2008 at 5:12 pm · Reply

  Powdery Mildew
  I purchased 2 Endless Blooming hydrangeas and planted them under a tree where they get a little morning sun and rest of day is shade. I realize I need to transplant them so they can get more morning sun but they have mold on the leaves. Can I spray with a fungus spray or will just transplanting fix the problem. They really look sick. They have a couple small blooms on them. Please let me know as I don’t want to lose them.

  Hi Louise
  It sounds like you have powdery mildew on your hydrangea. It would be a good idea to spray the plant to stop further spread. Go to powdery mildew for a home treatment recipe.

• Barb M

  July 5th, 2008 at 10:16 pm · Reply

  I have 2 Endless Summer Hydrangea, 3 years old. My plants get about 3 hours of full morning sun – and up till 1pm they get filtered sunlight then full shade.
  They never get any new growth on last years wood. They start over from the ground up each year. I end up pruning the old wood off once the new growth is about 6 inches or so tall. They grow to about 10 or 12 inches high and bloom nicely. Blue blooms and nice healthy green leaves. I’d like to see them grow taller and grow back from old wood. What can I do? Do they need a little more sunshine? I am in Central Nebraska very near zones 4b and 5a.

  HI Barb
  It sounds like the plants gets adequate light. From what you’ve told me, the previous years growth dies back in the winter, which can happen given the sporadic changes in temperature. What you can try is to protect the plant by making a mound of leaves about a foot high around the crown in the fall just as the ground freezes. See above 1st question for more mulching ideas. Remove it in the spring. Fertilize in spring and side dress the root zone with compost to boost the growth. It takes about 3 years to really get well established.

• Sandy Christo

  July 7th, 2008 at 10:05 am · Reply

  I have 8 E.S. plants. They have been established for 3 years. I fertilize with Holly-tone and prune deadheads and stocks in the spring. The problem is some plants have lots of blooms while others have a few. I have really large and really small blooms on the same plant and the stems are very limp. They get plenty of water, which I understand they love. I would appreciate any advice.

  Hi Sandy
  A mix of large and small blooms on a younger plant is common. The large flowers are produced by the terminal buds and small blooms can come from the lateral bud (lower on the stem). To strengthen the stems and keep from bending over-prune the plant back by 1/2 next spring.

• Karen Guerard

  July 9th, 2008 at 12:32 pm · Reply

  Flopping stems
  I live in Connecticut and planted 5 Endless Summer Hydangea plants last summer. They are all doing terrific with many blooms. I have not pruned them since they were planted. I have found that when they first start their growth in the spring and begin to develop their blooms, the plant has a nice full shape with height. After one month, the branches seem to sag bringing alot of the blooms to lay on the ground creating a flatter looking plant. I am not sure if I need to prune to create a full plant that maintains its height or if there is a different solution. If prunning is the answer, what is the correct way to prune and when do I prune in my area. I do not want to interrupt blooms for the next season.

  Hi Karen
  Sometimes heavy rains or high nutrients in the soil from lawn fertilizer can cause the stems to grow fast but not strong enough to hold the blooms, for now try supporting them with a peony hoop or stake them up. You can also cut them back by 1/2 now (July)and still get some flowers. Don’t prune later mid-than Aug as they need time to harden off for the coming winter.
  You can prune your plant up to 1/2 next spring or this fall after they are done blooming. A spring pruning is sometimes better because it will cut out any winter kill. Pruning will produce stronger and bushier plants. ES hydrangea bloom on old and new wood .

• Kathy Skagen

  July 10th, 2008 at 9:01 am · Reply

  I have a 3 yr old Endless Summer hydrangea. It is doing well in a pot on covered porch and gets morning sun. My problem is that the flowers are green. I know they turn green as the bloom ages but these start out green and stay green. The first year they were blue and started to turn pink. I fertilized with acid fertilizer for hydrangeas and the flowers turned green. I searched all over for an answer and was told maybe the water ph is competing with the fertilizer and making it neutral. So I stopped fertilizer last year and the flowers turned pink. I decided to fertilize with just regular fertilizer for blooming flowers this year and my flowers are green again. The obvious answer is don’t fertilize but since the plant is in a pot, doesn’t it need some nutrients? I sure would appreciate some advice. Thanks!

  Kathy
  After some research, the only thing I found was that “Occasionally hydrangeas that are normally pink or blue will bloom green in some years. No one seems to know what causes this, but often it occurs for only one or 2 years and then the blooms return to their normal color. Using a fertilizer that contains trace elements may hasten the returns to a normal color.” http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/lacecaps.html.

• Karin Duncan

  July 16th, 2008 at 5:49 am · Reply

  Anthractnose on hydrangea
  I live in Virginia and recently had some landscaping done (June 2) in a fairly shady area of our yard. I have 6 new E.S. hydrangea which I love. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed some brown spots on the blooms which look just like the photo of anthracnose on the “diseases of hydrangea” website. I have been picking off the affected petals, but there are more of them everyday. The landscape designer suggested using 3336, but the nursery guy advised against it suggesting that the plants would then require it all the time. He recommended instead to remove the brown petals. The leaves look healthy. there are a few spots/holes, but not many. I had started doing some overhead watering, but stopped when I found the brown spots. Could you please give me your advice? Thanks!
  Karin

  Hi Karin
  Overhead watering helps spread the fungal disease. Anthractnose likes hot, wet, overcast weather with temperatures of 75-90F and heavily fertilized plants. It spreads by splashing water, rain, dew, and heavy fog. There is nothing you can do at this time to elliminate the fungus. Remove any infected petals and leaves to keep them from infecting the rest of the plant. The fungus may stop spreading if weather conditions improve. You can spray with a fungicide to keep it from spreading to the rest of the plant but the best way to control the disease is preventative spraying before the disease shows up. Hydrangea macrophylla (ES) are more susceptible to anthracnose and depending on weather conditions, may show up every year.

• amy

  July 16th, 2008 at 5:24 pm · Reply

  HYDRANGEA WHITE WAVE,
  my hydrangea white wave (white lacecap) looks all wilted and practically dead, it was just planted 2 days ago, do you think it’s the heat?

  Hi Amy
  Transplant shock (disturbing the roots) and the heat are a major factor. Try to give it shade and keep it moist -not wet. If it had flowers, you may as well cut them off as they will not recover. You can try to give it a dose of a root stimulator and mulch around the perimeter of the plant to keep the roots cool.”White wave ” is hardy in zones 6-9.

• Kim

  August 13th, 2008 at 8:20 pm · Reply

  Dormancy
  I have a hydrangea plant that is about 3 years old. It looks very healthy but has only produced one sad little flower….and it is just coming on! I expect that it is located in an area that is too shaded. I’d like to move it but am afraid. Your sight references spring or fall when dormant. Dumb question…how do I know it is dormant? THANKS!

  HI Kim
  When the leaves have dropped off the plant then the plant is dormant and you can transplant it. If the plant has leaves and is transplanted, it will struggle (wilt) because the damaged roots cannot provide enough moisture to maintain the leaves especially in hot weather. When there are no leaves to feed, the plant can focus on rebuilding a good root structure for next years growth.

• David Modun

  September 18th, 2008 at 9:29 pm · Reply

  I live in zone 8B (40 miles north of New Orleans). Now is mid of September, local Home Depot has some sad looking ES Hydrangea for cheap sales. If I get them now, should I plant them immediately? Should I leave them in the pots, plant them next Spring? Or, should I ever bother to get them? By the way, you know how hot and moist here in the summer, maybe I should forget about Hydrangea? Thank you.

  HI David
  Endless Summer hydrangea is hardy in zones 4-9. I would plant them immediately in more of a light shaded area to keep it cooler in the hot summer. You should have enough time for it to get established and the cooler weather will help.

• Ray

  October 14th, 2008 at 7:55 am · Reply

  Winter protection in a pot
  I was given a Blue Summer Hydrangea, in a double pot. It’s been trimmed down to about 15″ & there is new growth. I would like to know what I can do to overwinter the pot. It is on my 22nd floor balcony facing north-east in Southern Ontario, where temps are supposed to fall to 14C/6C in the next couple of days. Can I leave the pot outside for the winter? What can I do to protect the roots during our -20C winter?

  Hi Ray
  Endless summer hydrangea is hardy in zone 4 minimum temperatures of -25 to -30F which converts to max. minus 34.4C which mean it can be left outdoors for the winter. Being in a container, it should get extra protection- wrap the outside with some type of insulation and add mulch to protect the roots. It would also be a good idea to wrap the stems with burlap or landscape fabric after the leaves fall off to protect the buds from freezing winds and winter dieback.

• Ray

  October 20th, 2008 at 3:53 pm · Reply

  Winterize hydrangea in a container
  Good to know I can leave the plant outside. I wrapped the whole thing, pot & plant with bubble wrap, but am wondering if that’s over-kill??? Just having read your other section on hydrangea care, should I bubble-wrap just the pot, & cover the actual plant with something else? I’ve also completely covered my hostas with the wrap- is there something else I should be doing for them as well?
  Thanks!

  Hi Ray
  Sorry, I didn’t make myself clear. The insulation should be done later in the season after a hard frost when your hydrangea drops all its leaves). Leave the bubble wrap on the pot but the stems need to breathe and yet be protected from freezing winter winds that can kill off next years flower buds. Hosta is much hardier, mulch the top of the soil after the plant completely dies back same as hydrangea.
  To winterize hydrangea in a container. In November after a hard freeze, tie the stems together with twine, then slip a plastic rose collar over the plant and fill it with pine mulch, leaves or straw to cover the crown. Another way is to wrap the stems with hardware cloth or chicken wire and fill it with pine bark and then wrap the outside with permeable landscape cloth or burlap. If your winter is not as severe -a burlap/landscape cloth wrap around the stems may be sufficient. The insulation should be able to “breathe” and maintain an even temperature. If a plant is wrapped in plastic it can get too hot in the winter sun and then freeze when night temperatures drop.

• Ray

  October 22nd, 2008 at 2:16 pm · Reply

  It’s this site & your advice that has “saved” all my plants, from poinsetta to orchids, to bromliads, spider plants & easter lilies! & now my latest, the endless summer hydrangea.
  Thanks again & I will keep returning to read up on how to keep all my houseplants healthy:)

  Thank you for the kind words Ray – It’s people like you that make my work worthwhile and rewarding. Glad we can help.

• Alyssa

  November 18th, 2008 at 1:15 pm · Reply

  Great information here, thanks! I do have a question, though. I have four endless summer hydrangeas on the N side of my house where they get part sun, mostly shade. They bloom profusely but don’t seem to grow much in size. I’ve had them for 3 years and this past summer the plants were the biggest they’ve been, but they don’t seem to be approaching 3 feet at all. Each winter the branches and buds have died, which I’m assuming has a lot to do with the size. Will the plant ever reach it’s maximum if the branches keep dying back each winter or does the root growth take care of the size somehow? Also, I just bought burlap and stakes to shield the plants and I planned on filling each cylinder with some mulched oak leaves. Is this going to be ok for the plants? Do I need to worry about mold on the leaves harming the plant over the winter? Thank you so much for any help you can give me.

  Hi Alyssa
  It sounds as if your Endless Summer hydrangea dies back during the winter. Winter protection is a good idea. The less dieback you have the larger your plant will grow the following season because it doesn’t have to start from “square one”.
  To protect it in the winter Wait until all the leaves drop off before you winterize your hydrangea or trim the blooms and foliage and any old dead canes. Tie the stalks together and then slip a plastic collar (made from a large nursery pot ) and fill it will mulch (pine bark, leaves). For taller plants wrap the tied stems with mesh hardware cloth, secure in place then with landscape fabric for wind protection. For shorter plants, tie the stems together and slip a plastic rose collar over the stems, be sure the top is open for air circulation. This will keep the crown and stems snug and cozy for the winter. You might also fertilize (10-10-10) in early spring to stimulate new growth.

• Alyssa

  November 18th, 2008 at 1:20 pm · Reply

  Winterize tip
  I forgot to add that we live in zone 5 and there is a lot of westerly wind that hits these plants each winter. I’m thinking the burlap and leaves might help with the wind issue as well and would like to know your opinion. Thanks!

  Yes, that’s an excellent idea, a west wind is especially hard on plants in the winter.

• ev

  March 11th, 2009 at 3:39 pm · Reply

  It really bugs me that the grower uses photoshop in their ads to make it look like the plants perform better than they do. Won’t you all join me in contacting them to stop this awful practice?

• Ray

  March 13th, 2009 at 7:59 am · Reply

  Now that we are heading into warmer weather, with temperatures above 0C, I was wondering when I should remove the protective wrapping it’s been in all winter? Also, should I re-pot the plant in fresh soil & in a bigger pot? Any advice on pruning at this point, would be helpful as well.
  Thanks as always for your timely advice!

  Hi Ray
  As long as the danger of frost is over, you can remove the cover off your hydrangea. If you hear of an eminent frost be sure to recover them and protect them from frost. New growth is very sensitive to cold temperatures.

• Jodi

  March 23rd, 2009 at 7:17 pm · Reply

  Hi. This site is wonderful and full of so much information (I’ve learned so much!!) THANKS for your time I am in north-western Ohio. I purchased an endless summer hydrangea last spring. I planted it in a large container and placed it in an area of morning sun, afternoon shade. It rewarded me with gorgeous blooms and grew immensely over the summer. When it began to frost last fall, I brought the pot in my garage to provide a cold frame for it for the winter. I watered it once every 6-8 weeks or so over the winter. In the last few weeks it has new growth popping up everywhere. I didn’t cut all of the dried blooms off, so those are there still. Is it ok at this point to cut those off and start watering more often?
  The new green growth seems to be working its way up the plant, with the majority of it being closer to the soil. I see several buds on the branches from bottom to ends so I think it survived the first winter fine this way. My other question is, when should I move this outside. The new growth is a “tender” brighter green and I wasn’t sure if sun exposure should be limited at first or how that works. I assumed that I should not allow it to receive a frost if I do move it outside the garage, so I would bring it back in at night if needed. I just do not want to hinder the plants potential growth by not placing it outside yet, but also did not know how the growth would compare if it had been in the ground in my landscaping at this early in the season. We are looking at 50 degree temps over the 10 day forecast and possible 30’s for the lows at night. Any advice on how to weane this out of the garage at this point is MUCH appreciated. Thanks again

  Hi Jodi
  Cut away all the dead flowers and any stems that look dead or dried out on your hydrangea. Now is the time to prune it. Slowly start moving it outside for several hours (if you can) so the new growth can get acclimated. Be careful not to leave it in direct sun and bring it in if temperatures are in the 30’s. Its not that the plant wouldn’t tolerate the cold but as you mentioned, the new growth is very sensitive not only to cold temperatures but also too much sun exposure. You can also start fertilizing your hydrangea to promote healthy growth. Endless summer hydrangea is hardy in zone 5 and could be planted outside but may need some protection in the winter. So it is possible for you to plant it in the ground when the weather warms up.

• jessica

  April 11th, 2009 at 9:17 pm · Reply

  i live in maine, and i never pruned the plant close to the ground last fall. now the snow is gone, and i still have a dry dead looking bush. should i cut them back now?

  HI Jessica
  You don’t need to prune Endless summer hydrangea to the ground. It’s best to wait till spring to see what survived the winter before pruning. When the weather warms up, and if your hydrangea is alive, the buds should swell and send out new growth. If that happens, then you can prune away any dead dried stems and cut back up to healthy new growth.

• Marie

  April 17th, 2009 at 9:13 am · Reply

  I live in northwest Missouri. I planted 2 “endless summer” hydrangeas last Spring. They did pretty well with blooms in late summer/early fall. This sping I have new growth from the root but I don’t see any growth on the old wood. Should there be signs of growth on the old wood by now or does it take longer to come back? I did not cover the stems through the winter but only mulched around the bottom of the plant. Great site! Thanks!

  Hi Marie
  You should be seeing some bud swelling on the old wood, especially if there is new growth coming from the bottom of the plant. Sounds like the roots are fine but the top of the plant may have incurred some winter damage. Scratch the bark on the stems to see if there is some green, if so there is life in the stems. Endless summer hydrangea is hardy in your area but stranger things can happen.

• Ray

  April 22nd, 2009 at 9:33 am · Reply

  Hi Kris,
  Soon after I removed the protective covering on my Hydrangea a month ago, the weather turned nasty & cold again! So I brought the pot indoors, keeping it near a well lit window. My apartment stays at a steady 70F & I’ve noticed new growth at just below the soil line. There are quite a few “buds” as well on the stems from before winter; some are green with a dry cover, while others are a dark brown, almost purplish. All the stems seem to be alive & I wanted to know whether it would be safe to move the pot back outside – temperatures are now between 30F at night & 45F during the day, and expected to go higher over the next week to 10days.
  Also, when should I fertilise the plant- I use Miracle Gro all purpose feed for flowering plants, generally once or twice a month on other plants.
  Thanks!

  Hi Ray
  You hydrangea may be acclimated to colder temperatures since it spent the winter outdoors. If the weather goes down to the low 30’s and you have new growth, then move it indoors or cover it. New growth is easily prone to cold damage. Start fertilizing when the buds start to open. Twice a month should work well.

• Heidi Jellison

  April 29th, 2009 at 10:13 pm · Reply

  Blushing Bride hydrangea
  I live in Nashville. I bought 3 Blushing Bride hydrangeas last spring. They were beautiful. This spring, two of them have started to grow back, and the third only has some new growth at the base, that’s it. My other Endless Summer’s are starting to get flower heads and are growing back almost to the full amount of growth from last year. But, this one seems so far behind the others. Is it too early to tell if it won’t come back this year, or should I wait awhile longer to see what happens? Also, do I need to prune back old wood on the Endless Summer and Blushing Bride? And if so, when do I do that?

  Hi Heidi
  Blushing bride is a cultivar of Endless Summer which bloom on old and new wood. They can be pruned and still bloom the same season. The first year wintering-over is the hardest and sounds like one of your plants is slow to get going. As long as it has new growth coming from the base of the plant it should come back. Give the plant a dose of fertilizer to help it along. When the plant gets a good flush of new growth, prune any stems that have died back from the winter.

• AMY

  May 13th, 2009 at 7:18 am · Reply

  I just purchase a Endless Summer Hydrangea. I was told they loved the shade and planted it on the north side of my house where there is not much sunlight at all. I live in NW Missiouri. They are planted near my hostas that are growing great. I planted it and added some Miracle grow potting soil to the dirt. After only 3 days it is starting to wilt and die. Does it need to be moved to where it gets more sunlight or do you have any other suggestions. Thanks!

  Hi Amy
  Your E.S. hydrangea may need more sun in order to bloom. They need at least a few (3-5) hours of morning sun, more if you’re growing them up North. I don’t think sun is the factor at this time. It is going through transplant shock. Be careful not to overwater and keep it too wet or too dry. It can take up to 3 years for Endless Summer to establish itself and really take off and grow well.

• Brian

  May 18th, 2009 at 9:41 am · Reply

  Someone PLEASE HELP ME! I planted a Endless Summer Hydrangea late last month (April) and its planted at the edge of my back yard. On a sunny day, it gets sun for most of the day. Or at least a good half of the day. I had bought a bag of good potting soil and it had some fertilizer already mixed into it. I don’t remember exactly what kind of soil it was as I have already thrown the bag away. I put that soil in first and then planted my hydrangea. I also added 1 tablespoon of Fast Acting Sulfur so that I would get blue flowers on it instead of pink flowers. Before I planted it, there was nothing wrong with it. It looked very much healthy. After about 1-2 weeks or so, some of the leaves started to turn this almost dark purplish color. And about another week later or so, some of the leaves started getting almost grayish/silver/light brownish spots on them. I have NOT added any additional fertilizer to it. I made sure to water it good after I was done planting it. I also try to water it every other day that it doesn’t rain. The leaves that are changing color are the ones that are more on top and out in the open. I looked at some of the leaves that are closer to the ground and more shaded and those are still perfectly green. They weren’t changing color. I had gone to a garden center and brought in a leaf with me and spoke to someone there. They didn’t seem to think it was diseased or anything like that. They told me to just make sure it gets enough water. Some of the blooms/flowers on it have also turned brown on it. Been thinking about maybe deadheading but not sure yet. I would like an answer to this ASAP as I DON’T want it to die on me. My parents bought this hydrangea for me and they told me it wasn’t cheap. They paid somewhere between 25-35 dollars for it. So, any help at all would be very much appreciated. Thanks much!

  It’s probably in transplant shock and the roots are not happy. Be careful not to overwater. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. It may also be getting too much sun right now, so if yu can give the plant some shade so that it can adjust to the light exposure.

• Brian

  May 19th, 2009 at 2:41 pm · Reply

  Thank you for the reply. Appreciate it. Do you have any idea’s on how I could give it some shade without digging it up and moving it? I don’t want to dig it up. Let me know. Thanks.

• Andrew

  May 22nd, 2009 at 8:28 pm · Reply

  I live in southern CA. (near LA, zone 10-11) and want to put 3 ES plants in my yard. The best place for them is mostly shady and gets a few hours of sun. However, it is AFTERNOON sun and not morning sun as recommended. Will that really matter? Does the general warmth and sunniness of southern CA help in this respect? Thanks for all the helpful advice..

  HI Andrew
  Endless summer hydrangea is hardy in zone 4-9. Being in zone 10-11 will put a strain on the plant for heat tolerance. It may get too hot for the plant in summer. Afternoon sun is much hotter than morning sun- it will make a difference.

• Patrick Hanna

  May 23rd, 2009 at 6:57 am · Reply

  Another question about blooming: I have seven Endless Summer hydrangeas planted on the west side of my house. They get open shade all morning, an hour of full sun at noon and dappled light/shade from distant tall trees from early afternoon onward. They bloomed profusely for several years and then stopped. They have not bloomed for three years, although they have shown good foliage growth from the root crown AND from the bottom of the previous year’s canes each year. I seldom have any disease problems with them, although I occasionally see some fungus spots on the leaves late in the summer. For years, I fed these plants with a ’super bloom’ product dissolved in water. I also treated the soil with dissolved aluminum crystals. When the plants quit blooming, I stopped feeding–fearing that I had over-fed them. I’ve considered the possibility of late frosts, but I have seven other hydrangeas nearby that continue to bloom profusely. They are not getting “nipped” by frost. I do not fertilize the yard in this area. Any thoughts about possible causes–too much feeding in past years? Too much aluminum? Other? Any thoughts about how to make them start blooming again? Many thanks for your ideas.

  Hi Patrick
  Has the amount of sun exposure changed? Perhaps maturing trees in the area are adding more shade and not enough sun to get your hydrangea to bloom. Do you prune them?

• Patrick Hanna

  May 24th, 2009 at 9:46 am · Reply

  Hi. I don’t believe the afternoon shade has changed significantly. The trees are very mature, tall, and distant from the hydrangeas. I had the trees professionally thinned several years ago–selectively removing about 40% of the crown of each tree. This opened up the crowns quite a bit, but they still cast a nice pattern of open shade and dappled light which moves across the lawn during the afternoon. They are hard maples, growing in a lower front lawn. The hydrangeas are atop a terrace which rises above a retaining wall. I’d guess the trees are about 35-40 feet distant. Yes, I prune the hydrangeas in the spring after carefully observing which buds are opening on the old canes. Typically the lower buds leaf out well and the upper buds don’t. I clip ABOVE fully opened buds. I get good new canes from the root crowns each year, too. In the past, I’ve had a heavy first bloom and a dependable repeat bloom. Then a very light third bloom in late September–early October. I’ve had only two blossoms on one of these plants, and NO blooms on the others, for about four years.

• Maureen

  May 25th, 2009 at 9:04 am · Reply

  I live in zone 4 and have just planted an ES Hydrangea in the ground. My question concerns winter protection. It is planted close to and on the north side of the house. During the winter, there is often an accumulation of snow that has turned to ice in that or close to that spot. This snow/ice accumulation disappears some time after the snow elsewhere on the property. Is tying the stems, mulching and/or a burlap wrap sufficient protection?
  Thanks

  Hi Maureen
  Wrapping your hydrangea in burlap should provide some winter protection. Heavy accumulation of ice and snow can also cause damage

  .

• Laura

  May 26th, 2009 at 6:00 am · Reply

  Hi-
  I live in NH and have a ton of deer in my yard. I have lots of lilacs and just planted an ES hydrangea. My question is will the deer eat this?? They have never touched my lilac’s in the past but my husband bought me a red one, and they keep eating it!

  Thanks,
  Laura

  Lilacs are seldom damaged by deer and hydrangea can occasionally be eaten. They are not their favorite food but if they are hungry enough, they will eat whatever is available. If it becomes a problem, try spraying the shrubs with a deer repellant. It’s better to spray for deer before they taste the plants.

• Maureen

  May 31st, 2009 at 5:51 am · Reply

  A few of the leaves of my newly planted ES were frostbitten last night (hopefully this is the last groundfrost event of the season). Should I cut the leaves off or let them fall off on their own?
  Thanks

  Hi Maureen
  Leave them be. They will drop when ready.

• Kristen

  June 4th, 2009 at 7:26 am · Reply

  I have 4 Endless Summer Hydrangeas. They are planted along a fence, they get sun and shade. They were planted on Mother’s Day. All did well until a few days ago. I did spray some weed kiler on some poison ivy and I thought I ws careful not to get the spray on the Hydrangeas. Three are doing well, but one (the one that was closest to the Poison Ivy) has drooping leaves, still green, no spots, just drooping, it even has a bloom starting on it with no signs of dying. I watered it thinking that it may not have enough water because it is planted where the ground starts to slope downward. It is slightly under a limb of a Dogwood Tree but still seems to get good sun. Can anyone provide some tips for me to try and see if I can bring this plant back?

  Hi Kristen
  Your hydrangea may have some chemical drift from the weed killer. It might also wilt because its taking a little longer to adjust to the new environment. Keep the soil moist not wet and mulch around the plant to maintain even moisture. Try a slow drip watering so that the water can soak in instead of running down the slope.

  • Kristen

    June 8th, 2009 at 5:07 am · Reply

    Just a note. It rained Friday night and the droopy hydrangea looks great. I guess it just needed more water than I was giving it.

    Good to hear its improving. The overcast day will also give it some time to recoup.

• Ray

  June 4th, 2009 at 9:36 am · Reply

  My Hydrangea shows no signs of rejuvenating! All the stems are green when I lightly scratched them, yet there are no new shoots/buds. The older buds are still brown & I am beginning to despair at ever seeing my plant in bloom! Temperatures here in Mississauga, Ontario are around 18C during the day & 9C at night. It gets morning & evening sunlight for about 45mins to an hour every day, with plenty of rain in the past couple of weeks. I have also fertilised the pot every 2-3wks in the past 2mths after repotting in fresh soil. Please HELP! What else should I be doing to get my plant thriving??

  Hi Ray
  Your hydrangea buds may have had some winter kill. No need to fertilize when there are no leaves emerging. The buds should be swelling and leafing out. Make sure that your plant is not too wet-soggy soil will cause root rot. If the roots are healthy, they may send out new growth closer to the base of the plant. I guess it’s wait and see.

• Martha Reavley

  June 4th, 2009 at 5:08 pm · Reply

  YOu may be over-fertilizing it.

• Daisy

  June 5th, 2009 at 7:19 pm · Reply

  Transplant shock
  Hello,
  I planted 3 Hydrangea plants 5 days ago and one of the plants is starting to wilt. The plants have gotten plenty of sun and water. Zone 5, and weather is about 65 to 70 degrees. The plant started wilting today and got worse as the day went on. Is there anything I can do to save it?
  Please help!

  Hi Daisy
  Your hydrangea is suffering from transplant shock, wilting is one of their symptoms. Until the roots are established, wilting may increase as the summer gets hotter. Be sure to keep the soil moist but not soggy (wet). Soil that is too wet can promote root rot. To check for soil moisture stick you finger about 4″ into the soil -if its wet- wait to water, if dry, water at the soil line and then check the soil the next day. To deter leaf spot disease, avoid watering the leaves. Best time to water is in the morning. Adding a couple inches of mulch will also help retain even soil moisture. You can also water your plants with a root stimulant to help promote faster root growth.

• TiAnna

  June 9th, 2009 at 8:45 pm · Reply

  Hi,
  I recently moved to a place where I have three lovely Hydrangas growing on the east side of my home. They are lovely, productive; and, my landlord tells me the plants have never looked “so good” with other tenants. Problem: the blossoms of one of the plants are turning brown. The color and blossoms are large(or small), full bodied and amonst the beautiful color…the blossoms are turning brown. I thoroughly water every other day…when the weather is rather warm…3-4 days, depending on the weather. I live in the Sacramento Valley; and can only find information on leaves tuning brown. Suggestions? Thanks,

  Hi TiAnna
  The flowers and buds on your hydrangea may be infected with botrytis, a fungal disease also known as grey mold. It attacks all plant parts and is a results of rain, standing water, overhead watering or dew at temperatures between 32-84 degrees. Try to avoid any overhead watering that is usually the culprit. You can treat it with a fungicide before blooming to reduce the infection. Botrytis will winter over in the soil and on plant debris, so be sure to remove and destroy any infected plant parts.

• Jennifer

  July 17th, 2009 at 4:38 pm · Reply

  I have 3 endless summer hydrangeas and none of them really get any flowers on them. This year one of them got a lot of buds on it but the flowers never bloomed. Any suggestions on what I can do to get flowers on my hydrangeas? I’m not even worried about the color, I just want some flowers. Thanks.

  Hi Jennifer
  The article on http://hortchat.com/info/hydrangia-carehydrangia-care” rel=”nofollow”>Hydrangia care will give you some ideas why your Endless Summer is not blooming. It may take your hydrangea up to 3 years to get acclimated after planting. Which means that they spend all their energy making roots and no flowers. Have you fertilized this year?

• Donna

  July 18th, 2009 at 8:10 am · Reply

  I bought 2 endless summer hydrangeas at the beginning of July that were full of pink blooms. I know that July isn’t the best time for transplanting, but neede d to do so because of the long stretch of time that I would be at home to water them. The blooms have lost their color and have turned dark. The leaves and stems seem to be fine.

  Is this because of the transplanting? Should I deadhead the blooms? Will new blooms come before the end of the season? Thanks for your advice!

  Hi Donna
  When a plant is stressed because of transplanting the first thing to go are the flowers. It’s hard enough for the roots to maintain the leaves. Deadhead the blooms and once the plant gets acclimated and sends out new growth, it may bloom again this year. If not look for flowers next year.

• Michelle

  July 28th, 2009 at 11:17 am · Reply

  My endless summer hydrangeas are 4 years old and healthy with lots of large blooms. However, they have grown far larger than anticipated and I’d like to move to a larger/open spot. Can they be moved? If so, when is the best time to move in order to avoid shock to root system? Spring, fall?

  Hi Michelle
  You can move them in the fall when they are dormant (drop their leaves) or early spring.

• birgit

  August 4th, 2009 at 5:44 am · Reply

  I live in Southern Ontario and planted an Endless Summer hydrangea in the spring. It was absolutely beautiful and seemed healthy until one day last week. I came into the garden and the leaves and flowers were lying wilted on the ground. I assumed it needed water which I gave it but now the majority of the plant is brown and wilted. Has it died or will it come back?

  Hi Birgit
  I’m not sure what happened to your hydrangea. The period after transplanting is very critical for the plants survival. They need to be pampered and stress free. It may have been overwatered or underwatered, planted too deep or in poorly drained soil. Has the weather been hot lately? At any rate the roots are not strong enough to support the plant, therefore causing the wilting. It’s too early to tell if your hydrangea will survive.

• Jessica

  August 18th, 2009 at 7:39 pm · Reply

  ES hydrangea growing pains
  I planted 2 endless summer hydrangeas this summer. 2 weeks after planting, one had the back half of the leaves wilt and brown, I plucked off the leaves and have been keeping a careful eye on it. I did notice some spider mites and sprayed for them. The plant still has some bloom starts and has new growth that looks good. Well, over a month later my other hydrangea has done the same thing (still has a pretty bloom and a good number of starts), only the leaves are wilting all over it. Is it shock? fungus? over watering? or something else? When I bought them they had a rust color on some of the older leaves, but the new leaves were nice and green…
  I water every 3 days or so, soaking at the base.
  I used a root-stimulator when I planted them, but now that it is August and the weather is cooler I’ve been hesitant to use it again.
  I live in zone 4, they do get some afternoon sun, probably 2 hours or so and they get some morning sun as well.

  Hi Jessica
  Until the hydrangea is totally established, it will have some “growing pains” and struggle. They can take up to 3 years to acclilmate and grow well. New healthy growth is a good sign. Hot afternoon sun is not the best location for it, but it may adjust once the roots are established. Do not feed with a balanced fertilizer after mid-Aug, you really don’t want to stimulate new leaf growth. On the other hand, you can use the root-stimulant every two weeks up thru September to encourage more root growth. A root stimulant only feeds the roots and doesn’t promote leaf growth. Check the label as to dosage and number times of application

• veronica

  September 24th, 2009 at 9:23 am · Reply

  what are the reason hydrangeas die?Can they be revived?

• David

  October 24th, 2009 at 12:42 pm · Reply

  Pruning
  I live in southern Rhode Island and have 3 thriving “endless summers” that are growing faster than I anticipated. All have huge blue flowers that fade to a lavendar color after several weeks. They are 3 years old and at least 4 ft high. A number of the stems now droop with very large flowers at their ends. I would like to cut them back , but I am afraid of doing harm. Can I cut the stems back at least a foot in the spring and help shape the plant without damaging or killing? Also should I add acidity to the soil to prolong the blue color of the flowers or is this normal.
  (date: 10/22/09)

  Hi David
  Because it blooms both on new and old wood, you can cut back your Endless summer hydrangea even by 1/2. The best time to do this is when the plant is dormant-late winter. I believe the soil on the east coast has a tendency to be acidic (low ph) which causes your flowers to naturally bloom a blue color. If they have been blooming blue in the past few years, then it is normal and you don’t need to change the ph of the soil.

• Brenda

  November 14th, 2009 at 2:13 pm · Reply

  My endless summer’s blooms have turned rusty, small and there are brown spots on the leaves. I’ve seen the comments on brown spots but not any on the blooms losing color and turning rusty.

  Hi Brenda
  Have the blooms been around for a while?

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