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Hydrangia care

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I have very large healthy Hydrangia foliage but no bloom. What can I do?

First thing you have to determine is what kind of hydrangea you have. Some of the common reasons for blooming failure are 1. Too much shade-all grow in partial shade but too much will affect blooming. 2. If you live in the cooler climates, the flower buds could have had winter damage. Only smooth(H. arborescens) and panicle(H. paniculata) hydrangea bloom on new wood; bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla) blooms primarily on old wood which means that they need to set their buds in one year and then make it through the winter to bloom the next year. In addition some cultivars of bigleaf also bloom on new growth. 3. Pruning - be aware of the timing. Judicious pruning is important. Too much pruning will loose next years buds. If you prune to reduce the height, do so right after blooming . If you prune to thin out the plant, cut some of the oldest stems to ground level in the early spring(dormant season). Most hydrangeas grow well with no pruning at all.

hydrangea

When is the best time to cut back Hydrangeas?

The best time to prune is early spring and immediately after flowering. It helps to know what kind of Hydrangea you have to know how much to prune.
H.arborescens blooms on new wood, so you can cut it down to 1/2 size or 6″ above the ground in the winter or early spring. No pruning will give you less vigorous growth and smaller flowers.
H. paniculata - same as H. arborescens.
H. macrophylla Bigleaf hydrangea- blooms on old wood (except for Endless Summer, Penny Mac and All Summer Beauty) do not prune, only to remove spent flowers. Cut right below the flower head. Any other pruning will reduce flower production for the next season. The more you cut the less flowers you will get.
H. quercifolia, Oakleaf hydrangea blooms on old wood -prune same as H. macrophylla. Prune in early spring to shape or thin the plant at the expense of flowers.

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48 Comments on Hydrangia care»

  1. How do I know what kind of hydrangea I have, and how do I know when to prune if it doesn’t bloom?

    Here are some of the varieties of hydrangeas: Smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) is hardy zone 4-9. This native shrub gets 3-4 ft. tall and has a rounded spreading form. The leaves are large and rounded, deep green. The flowers are cream colored rounded clusters . ‘Annabelle’ and ‘Grandiflora’ are popular varieties. It blooms on new wood so if you cut the old stems to the ground in late winter you will still have flowers the coming season.

    Panicle hydrangea(Hydrangea paniculata) is hardy zone 3-8. It is the most hardy of all hydrangeas. This multi-stemmed shrub grow 10-20 ft. tall(some cultivars are smaller). The leaves are oval, dark green and deeply veined. It has cone-shaped clusters that have a blend of small and large ivory- white flowers ,that change to pinkish-bronze with age. Some varieties are ‘ Grandiflora’ or PeeGee, ‘Tardiva’, Brussels Lace’ and ‘Pink Diamond’. It also blooms on new wood.
    Bigleaf hydrangea(H. macrophylla)is hardy zone 6-9. It has a mounded, wide spread form that grows 3-6 ft. tall. Leaves are deep green, large-oval shape. It is known for its lush flowers that come either in the globe-shaped form or lacecap blossoms. The “mophead” shapes are large, rounded blooms that consist of showy flowers ;whereas the lacecap group have flat showy flowers with small starlike flowers in the center. Among some of the varieties are ‘Nikko Blue’, Forever Pink’ and ‘Glowing Embers’. These bloom on old wood (last year’s growth) so prune after blooming for height. If you prune in early spring you will lose some flowers. There is a new variety Endless Summer (’Bailmer’) that will bloom on old and new wood and is hardy to zone 4. If you prune this one at the wrong time it will still bloom the next year.

    Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) hardy zone 5-9. Ths multi-stemmed form grows 6-8 ft tall. Easily recognized by its oakleaf-shaped floliage and long conical clusters of flowers. Blooms on old wood, so prune right after flowering.

    Comment by mpbeebe — 10/28/2004 @ 12:31 pm

  2. blooms were blue; fertilized yard, blooms went ugly purple. i want blue back.

    It is possible that you changed the ph of the soil by fertilizing. A blue hydrangea requires a ph of 5.0 - 5.5 so that it can absorb the aluminun compounds it needs to get a blue color. A higher ph ties up the compound making it unavailable thereby, producing a pink color. In short apply aluminun sulfate to the soil to lower the ph to get a blue hydrangea

    Comment by jamie nixon — 1/4/2005 @ 11:23 am

  3. For cut flowers for the table.I bought some hydranga flowers and they went droppy. Is there anything I can do to bring them back. Also from my garden when I cut some from my hydranga bust, what can I do to keep them looking full and nice. One more question; and if I want to dry them, what is the best thing to do.
    Thanks Corinne

    Cut flowers early in the day. Try recutting them when they are drooping. For drying hydrangea, timing is important. Softly squeeze the flower and feel for a slight papery resistance, check all florets then cut and place in a vase and let dry. Another method is to cut the flowers place in a vase full of water and let the flower absorb the water and then allow it to dry.

    Comment by corinne — 3/26/2005 @ 3:02 pm

  4. I have a Tokyo Delight hydrangrea. Does anyone know what “type” this is so that I can determine how best to prune?
    Thanks.

    Tokyo Delight is a cultivar of Hydrangea macrophylla, bigleaf hydrangea. Blooms on old wood so prune right after flowering. Blooms July-Aug. Hardy in zone 5-9 although 5 is “iffy” and can die back from winter cold destroying next years flowers.

    Comment by Betty — 4/3/2005 @ 8:32 am

  5. The leaves curl and turn black or dark on the edges.

    Brown crisp edges indicate salt burn(too much fertilizer) drought strees, or soil compaction.

    Comment by Anonymous — 4/28/2005 @ 4:07 pm

  6. Hydrangas: Are they poisonous? I want to plant some in a garden visited by elders with dementia. Sometimes they “eat the daisies.”

    Yes, according to the US Army center for Health, the flower buds are the most poisonous. Symptoms after injestion: cyanide poisoning, abdominal pain, vomiting, & lethargy.

    Comment by Victoria Zander — 5/8/2005 @ 6:29 pm

  7. I just bought a pink hydrangea. What kind (numbers ie 10-10-10) of fertilizer should I use to keep it pink.

    It depends on the type of soil you have. Some areas are naturally alkaline(pink) while others are more acidic. If the color starts changing, then change the ph of the soil and add lime to maintain a pink color. For general fertilizing, Michael Dirr, suggests using 4 oz. of 10-10-10 scathered outward around the base of the plant in early spring before the leaves emerge. He also recommends Osmocote or Nutricote.

    My next door neighbor has purple hydrangea and I have Med Blue…we swapped and the purple turn blue when I planted at my house…How can I get purple back. Donna Peavy

    The color depends on the ph level in your soil. Apparently you have a lower ph in you soil causing the flowers to turn blue instead of purple. If you increase your ph by adding lime (sweetening your soil) your flowers will turn purple.

    2007-2-9
    Tawnie ( mccrarytawnie@comcast.net / )
    I bought green, pink,and purple plants.The next year they all bloomed blue. How can I turn them back to their original colors?

    The soil in your area must have a lower ph in which hydrangeas naturally bloom blue. You can check the ph with a soil test. In order to raise the ph to 6.0-6.2 (which is best for pink color) you need to add Dolomitic lime several times a year to sweeten the soil. Use a fertilizer that has high levels of phosphorus (middle #) and no aluminum. Aluminum is easily taken up by the plant in lower ph soil producing a blue color; whereas higher ph reduces aluminum uptake causing pink blooms. Either you accept the natural growing habit of blue, try to change the ph, or grow your plants in a container where the color will be easier to control.

    Comment by Ida Watson — 5/21/2005 @ 2:59 pm

  8. It is June 4th in NJ, Is it OK to transplant a Hydrangea

    Best time to transplant Hydrangea is early spring before it buds or in the fall when the plant is dormant. Any other time you can put the plant in shock and it may not survive. When you do transplant irrigate and baby the plant like a new planting. When digging up your hydrangea try to get as many roots and the least amount of root disturbance to get better results.

    Comment by Dan Trivino — 6/4/2005 @ 6:48 am

  9. My plant was fine until a few days ago when I fed it with an acid fertilizer. Now the leaves are turning brown at the edge and curling. It is in partial shade & sun. What happened?

    It sounds like too much or too high concentration of fertilizer and the plant is experiencing fertilizer burn. Too much applied fertilizer that is not watered in well produces a concentrated solution that makes it difficult for plants to absorb water. The plant is not be able to use all that fertilizer. Water the plant thoroughly to dilute and leach out any access fertilizer and let the water drain. Do this several times .

    Comment by O. Solis — 6/5/2005 @ 8:29 pm

  10. I have a Blue Hydrangea and I do not have a partial sun/shade area in my yard it is in full sun. It has bloomed well but the blooms seem to die rather quickly. Should I be concerned?

    Blue hydrangea do like partial shade to full sun (afternoon shade is best in hot climates). The blossoms may fade faster because of too much sun. As long as it is healthy and growing you should not be worried.

    Comment by Christina Walker — 6/7/2005 @ 12:25 pm

  11. i have a purple plant that turned blue.I repotted to a bigger container & now its green.My favorite is purple/HELP!!!

    When you replanted the ph of the soil was different, changing the color. Add aluminum sulfate to the soil. You will need to do this every month and it will take time for any change to show. The best time to do this is in the spring when the plant is just starting to form flowers. Chances are you will not see much change this year. But keep in mind that you’ll need to do this next year to maintain the blue/purple color. Blue color requires more acid than the purple so you will have to monitor your applications.

    Comment by lucretia — 6/15/2005 @ 6:21 pm

  12. What can you do if the leaf edges are a dark brown. This plant has been in the ground about 3 mo & was planted with blooms on it. It was purchased locally at a garden center.

    Hydrangeas like water, it may be that they are too dry or exposed to too much sun and hot weather which will cause scorching.

    Comment by joe wilson — 6/20/2005 @ 5:06 am

  13. I just planted a pink hydrangea, it’s getting morning sun, some afternoon shade and more sun from about 1 to 7 in the evening. The blooms by the end of the day are droopy and they are fading from a pretty pink to a washed out almost white, the blooms also are browning around the edges. Is it too much sun, or is this expected until it gets established????

    Sounds like too much sun. The afternoon sun(hottest part of the day) is tough on a hydrangea- many like a partial shade environment.

    Comment by Amy Taylor — 6/22/2005 @ 1:35 am

  14. should the hydrangea blooms be cut off when the flower is spent, and when is it best to do so, when the bloom is completely spent or sooner? At what point on the stem do you cut away the spent bloom? Thank you

    Hydrangea macrophylla and H. serrata, bloom on old wood. In warm climates prune right after flowering, in cool climates leave the flowers on thru the winter to protect next yrs. bud and prune in the spring. Cut back to a healthy pair of fat buds (up to 12 in.). Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood can be trimmed right after blooming.

    Comment by Kiki Kraemer — 6/27/2005 @ 3:17 pm

  15. How do I treat black spot on my hydrangea leaves?

    Leaf spots occur when you water overhead. Water on the leaves and humidity help bring out the fungus that causes leaf spot. It is unsightly but will not harm the plant. Once the fungus is present, there is nothing you can do for it. You can spray in the spring with a fungicide as a preventative measure or change your watering routine to water the soil, avoiding water on the leaves.

    Comment by Edwina Norris — 7/6/2005 @ 8:58 pm

  16. friend says my ugly old lady mauve hydrangeas (variety unknown)will go green/white if I add used coffee grounds at soil level; won’t the acid therein influence blue flowers instead? Thanks.

    Only Hydrangea Macrophylla cultivars such as Nikko Blue, Mathilde Gutges and Endless Summer have the ability to turn blue. As the flowers age the color will change to lime green and eventually dry to beige (light brown)color. By lowering the ph via coffee grounds, the pink may turn into a white/green-depending on the variety. Try it, see what happens.

    Comment by katie — 7/17/2005 @ 11:46 am

  17. Wilting Hydrangia leaves. Plant is pot and not exposed to hot sun. Was a transplant from the ground but now in a container. Leaves continue to wilt even when watered.

    Tranplanting will shock the whole plant including the roots. There are not enough roots to support the leaves. Keep it in a shaded, protected area until the plant revives. Be careful not to overwater as this will invite root rot problems, bottom water (let plant stand in water up to 45 min. them drain).

    Comment by Diane Powell — 7/19/2005 @ 4:45 pm

  18. Hi
    I have two blue Nikko hydrangea bushes which I just bought about a month ago. Each is flowering very well, my only concern is that these bushes are very low to the ground, less than 2 feet tall. I planted one on each side of the front doorsteps, thinking that each would grow about 4-6 feet high. Is this a realistic expectation? If so, how long will it take for them to actually look like bushes? My hydrangeas are literally crawling on the ground at this point. Would using sticks to hold up the heavier branches help at all? Any help on this will be GREATLY appreciated.

    Nikko Blue can get up to 6 ft. tall. Your hydrangea is just getting acclimated to a new environment. A healthy hydrangea will increase in size each year. Winter protection is important for next year’s bloom. Be sure to mulch well over the winter to protect it from freezing. See the comment dated 8/05 for Melissa.

    Jan Humphrey ( hgunner24@wmconnect
    I have started 5 Nikko Blue Hydrangeas from cuttings and they are in 4″ pots now. How do I take care of them for the winter?

    If you live in Northern climate -do not let the new plants freeze the first winter. They need to be babied. There are not enough roots developed to survive the freeze. Best to keep them in a protected area through the winter.

    Comment by helen Sandor — 8/17/2005 @ 9:11 am

  19. What is the best time of year to plant hydrangeas?

    Best time is in the spring after danger of frost is over or in the fall before night temperatures get down to 32 degrees. Plant 45-60 days before the first expected freeze. When planting in the fall, apply 1/4 strength fertilizer to help establish roots and water well .

    Comment by Deb Johnson — 8/18/2005 @ 6:31 am

  20. I have 2 hydrangea bushes that seem to bloom whenever they feel like it. This year one did bloom but I only had two balls of blooms on it, and the other one did not bloom. They both get plenty of light, but they just seem to bloom 3 to 4 years at a time. I also took an agriculture class in high school and the teacher told me to just cut all the old stems off in late fall to rejuvenate it. Is she right? and what do you think is wrong with my hydrangeas?

    It depends on the type of hydrangea you have. It may be that your hydrangeas were affected by a freeze and or pruning. If you have a H. macrophylla which blooms on last years (OLD ) growth a freeze will kill the next season’s flowers. You may have to mulch and protect your plants for the winter.

    Comment by Maiku — 9/21/2005 @ 1:19 pm

  21. I LIVE IN PHOENIX AZ. wHERE SHOULD i PLANT MY PINK HYDRANGEA. wILL IT TAKE FULL SUN ALL SUMMER OR SHOULD I PLANT IT IN PARTIAL SHADE?
    hOW MUCH AND HOW OFTEN SHOULD I WATER IT.
    Because the temperatures get so hot in Phoenix, I would plant it in sun/partial shade(morning sun and afternoon shade). Water according to the plant’s need. If you have hot, windy days increase your watering. The general rule of thumb is 1 inch per week of deep soaking not overhead sprinkling.

    Comment by EDNA — 9/22/2005 @ 7:14 pm

  22. i just bought and planted a pitiful annabelle hydrangia (big leaf) today - october! should i add fertilizer at this point or wait until sping? also, since it is in a sad state, should i cover it this winter?

    Get it in the ground, do not fertilize as you don’t want any new growth on top. Mulch it well for the winter. It’s hardy zone 4-9 and is a tough hydrangea that blooms on new wood,therefore you can cut the old stems to the ground in LATE winter and still have flowers . Fertilize in the spring when new growth appears.

    Comment by cindy — 10/9/2005 @ 6:12 pm

  23. We bought what was labeled a spreading hydrangea. It is low and spreading very slowly along a fence. We planted it 3 years ago. How do care for it? Should we dead head it and if so when? Should we prune branches or old leaves and if so when?

    You probably have Hydrangea petiolaris which is a climbing/spreading plant. It is usually slow to start but once it gets established it will grow rapidly. Maintain even moisture and well-drained soil, fertilize little when young. Grow in full sun or partial shade. This is a vining type hydrangea needs a sturdy structure to clilmb on. It doesn’t require much pruning until it’s well established and then only when you want to control the growth. In fact too much pruning can delay blooming for years. I would leave it alone.

    gary anderson ( garyandersn@aol.com
    The tag on my plant says hydrangia petiolaris. It’s been in 2 years, the vines are healthly looking, bright green, but nothing that looks like a flower or bloom. I’m in partial shade, but vines look great as well as leaves. Where are my flowers? I did not trim it back last year…Thanks..can you help me? I’m in upstate new york, sidney to be exact.

    Hydrangea petolaris is a slower starter and needs little pruning. Excessive pruning will delay blooming for several years. It blooms in mid-summer in part shade /full sun.

    Comment by John Roberts — 10/17/2005 @ 1:56 pm

  24. I have a“macrophylla” hydrangia that I have in a pot outside. How do I care for it over the winter here in Ohio? I understand it is poisonous and I have a dog so am concerned about bringing it inside. Anyway to save it by putting it in a shed to protect it?

    Yes, you can keep it dormant in a garage or area where it won’t freeze. Wrap the container with insulation to keep the roots from freezing.

    Comment by Sandy Fitzhugh — 11/3/2005 @ 5:42 am

  25. A very good page for someone like myself who is trying to grow some hydrangias. It is January 23 and I live in Zephyrhills Florida. I purchased a beautiful medium pink hyrdrangia from the garden store last night. I would like to plant it outside. The front of my apartment faces north, can I plant this now? We very seldom have a freeze alert in this area of Florida. I am not sure of the name of the hyrdrangia, again, it is a medium shade of pink.
    Thank you very much for any information that you can give me.

    You can plant it outdoors as long as the temperatures don’t fall below 40 degrees. If there is a frost warning, I would recommend covering the plant especially if you have new succulent growth. Cooler temperatures allow for good root development.

    Comment by Joanie — 1/23/2006 @ 3:25 am

  26. I bought my hydrangea 2 years ago, when i first bought it it was a gorgeous lilac and purple colour, after planting it in a large pot of it’s own the next summer it had turned a dirty pink colour! which i find very unattractive… how do i get it back to the colour it was? and what soil do i use?

    The trick to maintaining the purple color is to add aluminum sulfate into the soil. If you have alkaline soil you’ll need to add aluminum sulfate to maintain a lower ph-to get a “bluer” color. Start early in the season as the plant starts to grow, it will take a while for it to change. Continue adding al sulfate each month throughout the growing season to maintain the color.

    Michele Wexler ( mhwexler@earthlink.net / )
    Can pink big leaf plants be changed to blue? Mine plants are dong very well, they are in a very good spot morning filtered sun with afternoon shade. Shoud I remove the blooms when they get old and turn to a greenish color?

    It depends if you have a H. Macrophylla and the right cultivar such as “Nikko Blue” “Ebziandom or “Mathilde Gutges.” They respond best and then the color may range from lavender to purple to blue. In order to get it to turn blue you have to treat it with aluminum sulfate in the spring and continue every month to maintain the acid soil required. Some like to save the blooms and dry them or you can cut them after they are done blooming. Macrophylla blooms on old wood so don’t cut too much as it will affect next year’s blooming.

    What chemical should I use to change my hydrangea from pink to blue?

    It not as simple as adding a chemical into the soil. Two important factors needed to change color are 1. Low soil ph (around 5) 2. aluminum sulfate or sulfur will increase acidity and changes color to blue. Acidic conditions in the soil make it possible to convert aluminum compounds so that the plant can absorb it. Color change will only happen with Hydrangia macrophylla (Bigleaf) which has the pigments. A white-flowered hydrangea will never develop blue flowers irregardless of the soil ph.

    Comment by keeli roebuck — 4/7/2006 @ 6:37 am

  27. I received a pink Hydrangia plant from a garden centre (Costco). I am not sure what to do with it, should I plant it outside or leave it in the the pot that it came in. There was no care or plant type label. I live in eastern Ontario Canada, very cold winters. Please advise.
    Thanks, Leanne

    If this was a greenhouse gift plant, then there is a good chance that it is not hardy in Canada and will die in the winter. These plants are grown under controlled greenhouse conditions to produce large showy flowers at the expense of a healthy plant. If it is a nursery grown plant for outdoors, chances are that the garden center would sell a product that is hardy in your area but stranger things have been known to happen. I would still plant it and hope for the best. Either way, you have nothing to loose. Kris

    Comment by Leanne — 4/14/2006 @ 5:58 am

  28. I recentely purchased 6 hydrangeas. I left them in the pots for several days and all was fine. A week ago, I planted them in an area that is in the shade until the evening sun. Now all of the blooms are drooping to the ground and all curled up, and the leaves are drooping with some of them brittle on the edges. What did I do wrong? They are getting watered by the sprinkler system in our yard. I have done lots of research on hyrdrangeas before I planted them,and cant imagine what the problem is. Can you help! Please!
    Vivian, N. Texas

    Your hydrangeas are in transplant shock and need time to recover. As far as watering, the sprinkler is not the best way to water. It can cause more problems, try to water at the soil level such as drip hose. A general recommendation depending on the weather and temperature is an inch of water/twice a week until the plant is established.

    Comment by vivian — 4/16/2006 @ 1:18 pm

  29. I live in the North East (Massachusetts). Last summer I planted H. Macrophylla. I did not prune the plant before the winter. Now it’s spring (I have not pruned)and the hydrangea looks to be dead. The ends of these “dead” branches are tear drop shape and dry. Are these new buds? Also there are green leaves at the base of the plant. Is it too late to prune? I am confused.

    If the ends are dark and dry there is probably some winter damage which will affect the flowers for this year. If you have an “Endless Summer” hydrangea then you may still get some flowers. The plant is still alive as it is sending out new growth from the roots. Prune the damaged section of the branch up to the healthy portion of the stem. Next fall protect your hydrangea by wrapping the branches in a plastice collar similar to a rose cone.

    Comment by Kristina Andrzejewski — 5/7/2006 @ 5:16 am

  30. I have a HOBELLA & HOMIGO HYDRANGEA . Could you tell me what type I am dealling with as far as do they bloom on old or new wood. Also, what is the difference between a Hydranga with a small leaf or one with a large leaf, what character differences are there? Thanks a million for any info you can give me. Amanda S.

    Hobella is a lacecap in soft pink and Homigo is a mophead pink-blue both are from the Hovaria series marketed under the Kaleidoscope culitvars of Hydrangea macrophylla. They bloom on old wood.

    Comment by Amanda Snyder — 5/19/2006 @ 3:19 pm

  31. What can I do about the white powdery mildew on my hydrangeas? Is it dangerous to the bushes? What caused it? I live in the deep south.

    Powdery mildew is caused by warm day temperatures, cool nights and high humidity, also plants growing in the shade with little air circulation. Hydrangeas seem to be susceptible to it. Some varieties are more resistant than others. Other than being unsigthly , it ususally does not harm the plant. For some remedies check the article on Powdery mildew.

    Comment by Janet — 6/8/2006 @ 6:11 am

  32. Zone 10 in July - can I put a shooting star hydrangea outside? If so, what are the optimum conditions for givng it the best chance of thriving?

    Shooting Star Hydrangea is hardy zone 7-9. The climate may be too hot for a hydrangea to thrive. Plant it in the shade where cooler temperatures prevail (cool microclimate) and keep it well watered in the hot summer. The other option is to plant it in a container and move it to a cooler environment when it gets really hot. Observe your plant and see how it responds to different sites. If this was a potted gift hydrangea, much of their energy was used to force large flowers , therefore may not grow well when planted outdoors. Some consider it a short term decor plant.

    Mary Ann ( maryannstemen@hotmail.com / )
    I have a Shooting Star Hydrangea and I need to know if it is a hardy perennial that I can plant outside. I live in Ohio, and some winters get very cold. Thank You!

    Hi
    Lace Cap Hydrangea “Shooting Star” belongs to H. macrophylla species. It is hardy to zone 7 ( O degrees F). The best you can do is to plant it in a container, leave it outdoors for the summer (morning sun/aft. shade) and then bring it indoors/garage for the winter.

    Patti ( pattijomcd@insightbb.com / )
    I bought a hydrangea plant in a Publix grocery store in Florida. It was called Shooting Star Lacecap white flowers with side shooting white starlike blooms around the edge. I brought it home to Illinois, potted it in a larger pot. It has round white powdery spots on the leaves, maybe mildew? The pics of powdery mildew I’ve seen dust the whole leaf. These are spots on top of leaf between 1/4 and 3/8 inch in diameter. I bought the only plant that didn’t have a tag on it, dang it.

    Lacecap hydrangea is not hardy in Illinois and should be grown as a container plant. Powdery mildew starts as spots and then the mycelium sends out threadlike organs that eventually spread and cover the leaf.

    Cindi ( tailz_cindi@yahoo.com / )
    I’ve just purchased two Shooting Star hydrangias,also known as Fiji Waterfalls,or Fireworks,one for myself,other a gift.We live in zone 7.Should I plant these in a lrg pot and sit outside and bring them inside during the winter? Or plant them outdoors in my flower garden? If I do plant them outdoors and cover them during the winter,will it not die down each year and result in a much smaller plant? Which is best? Partial Sun? Will this plant ever need pruning? Thanks!

    Shooting Star Hydrangea belongs to H. macrophylla and is hardy in zones 7-9, therefore it would be ok to plant it in semi shaded(AM sun) garden or repot it in a larger container to develop a good root system and plant it in the fall. If you get an unusual freeze cover it to protect the flower buds. It blooms on old wood so care must to taken when pruning. Prune (deadhead) after bloom to maintain size and thin out old branches to reduce size when needed.

    Comment by Perry — 7/3/2006 @ 2:42 am

  33. How can I propogate hydrangia? how much of the branch do i cut to replant to make more plants. and what is the best dirt to use to start it.

    Take a 4-6″ softwood cutting from new growth with a least 4 eyes (buds). Take of the foliage from the bottom set of buds and cut the top leaves in half. This helps reduce moisture loss through the leaves. Dip the cutting in rooting hormone and place it 2″ deep in a soiless mix of perlite and peat moss. Give it a good soaking. Keep container away from direct sun at an ideal temperature of 70-75. To maintain or increase moisture/humidity place container in a plastic bag using a stick to make a mini greenhouse. Be sure that it doesn’t get too hot inside as that will cook the plant. Don’t keep it too wet, water when soil looks lighter and like it is drying out. Your cutting should root in 3-5 wks. Once rooted, transplant and slowly expose it to morning sun. If it is leggy pinch it back to promote a bushier growth. Best time to do this is in the spring sothat the plant has enough time to develop a strong root system for the winter.

    Comment by jeffrey — 7/13/2006 @ 12:44 pm

  34. I have no green thumb, but my plants are doing extremely well. I would like sepecific, detailed information on pruning them. I have the hydrangias that bloom all the time.
    They are currently “loaded” with blooms, but I do not know how far from the flower to cut off. Some of the flowers are now spent and I want to prune them.
    I also am trying to figure out if I need to prune any of the green leaves.
    Thanks. Paul

    If you are just trimming off the dead flowers, cut them just below the flower up to the next set of buds. I would not prune any leaves at this time. Not knowing exactly which hydrangea you have it is best to prune it in early spring AFTER all the buds return, that way you will be able to tell what survived the winter. If you have a Hydrangea arborescens & paniculata (Annabelle & Pee gees)which grow on new growth you can cut them back 1/2 . This will shape the plant and encourage new growth with lots of flowers.

    Comment by Paul — 7/30/2006 @ 10:54 pm

  35. I HAVE A QUESTION….WHY DOES MY HYDRANGEA PLANT FORM BUDS AND THEN TURN BROWN AND NEVER BLOOM?

    The flower buds on your hydrangea may be infected with botrytis, a fungal disease also known as grey mold. It attacks all plant parts and is a results of rain, standing water, overhead watering or dew at temperatures between 32-84 degrees. Try to avoid any overhead watering that is usually the culprit. You can treat it with a fungicide before blooming to reduce the infection. Botrytis will winter over in the soil and on plant debris, so be sure to remove and destroy any infected plant parts.

    Comment by LOIS PRATT — 8/1/2006 @ 5:16 am

  36. I have three hydrangeas and all three have died back to ground level this fall. One did the same last year. It had one small bud at ground level and I nursed it back to 18″ this year. What is causing them to die to ground level?

    It may be variety of hydrangea. Some are hardier than others and if you have one that is marginally hardy, perhaps a H. macrophylla, then it will die back from the freezing temperatures. Fortunately, the roots did not die and that’s why they send up new growth in the spring. Try mulching and protecting it as you would a rose bush to keep the stems from freezing. For winter protection mulch it with pine bark, leaves. One elaborate way is to trim the blooms and foliage and tie the stalks together and then slip a plastic collar (made from a nursery pot) over the plant and fill it will mulch. Wrap the tied stems with landscape fabric. This will keep the crown and stems snug and cozy for the winter

    .

    Comment by Jim knapp — 12/14/2006 @ 12:28 pm

  37. i planted my hydrangia plants five of them about a week ago and last night we had a temps below 32 degrees and now they are wilted and maybe even a little brown will they be ok?

    Even if a plant is hardy, the emerging delicate growth is not as hardy as mature developed growth. There is not much you can do about the frost damage. Depending on the severity of damage, the plants may or may not recover. Wait and see, if the wilted branches do not recover prune them and you should get some new growth. If another frost is imminent cover the plants to protect the new growth. Depending on the type of hydrangea, you may have lost your flowers for the season.

    Comment by sandra — 4/5/2007 @ 10:33 am

  38. I have one oakleaf hydrangea (got last year) and is doing beautifully. already grew almost 4 feet. What do I fertilize it with and when. I also planted 13 Endless Summer Hydrangea ad they are doing great. What’s for fertilizing then and when. Thanks.

    Fertilize hydrangea in early spring as new growth emerges with a 10-10-10 granular scattered around base of the plant and outward and 6 wks. later after blooming to encourage healthy growth. Follow manufacturers application recommendation. Do not fertilize after Aug. 1st.

    Comment by d. c.Bird — 5/14/2007 @ 3:44 pm

  39. I just bought 4 of the new blushing brides (macrophylla’s) 2 are white and the other 2 are blue. While I haven’t got to enjoy my first bloom just yet something is enjoying my leaves while I’m waiting for my new babies to bloom. Any Idea’s on what it my be and whats safe as a pesticide to put on my plants? I live in the Southeastern part of Guilford County in North Carolina if that’s of any help…..

    In general, Hydrangeas have little insect problems but I’m sure something has found your plant appetizing enough to eat. Some insects that can attack your plant are rose chafers, four-lined plant bug (causes round brown spots on leaves), horntail. Examine your plants closely to see if there are any insects (some show up at night). I would suggest you take the damaged leaf to where you bought it or to the local extension office to ID the problem. They can in turn give you a recommendation for an insecticide.

    Comment by Donna — 5/15/2007 @ 8:56 pm

  40. I live in East TN. I planted a pink hydrangia several years ago. The leaves come back each year, but I never get to see the flowers, because the deer eat it. Is there anything I can do to keep the deer away?

    You can spray the plants with a deer repellent such as Liquid Fence (I smells bad). Repellents should be used early in the season before the deer get a taste of the plant and they need to be re-applied after a rain. Your other option is a 7 ft. fence. Make your own Deer repellent recipe

    Comment by Diane Carr — 6/3/2007 @ 9:14 pm

  41. Thanks so much! How much sun is ok for hydrangias? The patio gets some morning sun. Also, how often should they be watered?

    Hydrangea likes morning sun(min 3 hrs. of direct sun) and afternoon shade. In cooler climates it will tolerate more sun conversely in hotter climates will tolerate more shade. The patio sounds fine. Water in the morning an inch of water once or twice a week depending on the weather. Be careful not to overwater.

    Comment by Leslie — 6/23/2007 @ 4:40 pm

  42. I PLANTED 2 LIME LIGHT HYDRANGEAS THIS YEAR. THEY GET FULL SUN. THEY STARTED OUT FINE, THEN THEY APPEAR TO HAVE THINNED-OUT, HAVE SOME LEAF DROP, BLOOMS ARE VERY SMALL. MY DAUGHERTER PLANTED HERS AT THE SAME TIME – THEY HAVE DOUBLED IN SIZE, BLOOMS ARE HUGE AND GORGEOUS. WHAT’S WRONG WITH MINE? ONE OTHER THING, I’VE NOTICE A WHITE MOTH-LIKE INSECT SO I’VE SPRAYED WITH INSECT. SOAP AND SEVIN. ALSO PLANTED IN THIS BED ARE MORNING GLORIES, MOON FLOWER, PHOLX, BLUE SAGE. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE MOST WELCOMED! THANKING YOU IN ADVANCE…

    Your hydrangeas don’t seem to like the location as much as your daughters plants. It can be a matter of soil drainage, how much sun and watering. Hydrangeas like sun in the AM, and in warmer climates may like 1/2 day of sun. The soil should be rich, well drained and kept moist. Another factor you may consider is that it is competing for nutrients and water with all the neighboring plants in the flower bed. Prune your plants in the winter and fertilize in spring after they have leafed out. It should give them a good start for the growing season. If they don’t improve consider moving them to a new location.

    Comment by Julia Curry — 7/25/2007 @ 6:46 am

  43. My pink Hydrangia in a large container has fared very well the past 2 years. Now, in Dallas, its dormant and we are all ready for its showy early summer blooms. Can I break the root into 2 and repot the 2nd one? I really would love to see them in 2 separate pots.

    If you have a well established large plant, you can divide it while the plant is dormant or early spring. Be sure to tease out the roots and get 2 subtantial clumps of a rooting sytem. Uof GA.

    Comment by Pam Kamath — 1/11/2008 @ 12:24 pm

  44. I should have looked here first, however…we recently bought a home and with it, a whole back yard full of plants and trees I’ve never taken care of before. i was told to cut back my hydrangias all the way to about 8″. I do not know what kind they were but I think the flowers were purplish-blue and large. I live in Edmonds Washington(just north of Seattle), and I think I may have killed them. Is there a possibility they will grow back? They were beautiful late last summer when we bought the house. It is now Jan. Any hope?

    Hi Linnea
    Your hydrangeas will come back in the spring and put out new growth. The only question would be if they will bloom this year. If you have hydrangeas that bloom on old and new growth such as “Endless summer", then you should get flowers. Those that bloom on old wood from the previous year’s growth such as Bigleaf hydrangeas will not bloom or have much fewer flowers this year. Time will tell. Fertilize the plants with a 10-10-10 in late winter to e. spring before growth starts. Spread the fertilizer at the base of the plant.

    Comment by Linnea — 1/25/2008 @ 6:01 pm

  45. bought an expensive shooting star. it was rootbound, so transplanted. i think that i may have overwatered, so i replanted again. still has some previos flowers but the blue buds have all turned brown. please help. my husbands fav and think i ruined it thank you i advance

    Give it time to recover from transplanting. Let it dry out between watering. It is best not to transplant when the plant is in bloom or producing blooms. Better to wait till it is done blooming before disturbing the plant. The buds have turned brown because the plant is stressed out and can now longer support the flowers.

    Comment by sue beaty — 2/3/2008 @ 12:06 pm

  46. I purchased two hydrangeas 4 days ago. The bigger one is lime green and the smaller is lilac/purple colored. Late at nite, they droop and start to look dead. But in the day time, the look well alive. However, when the lime green one blooms, its flowers start to look more white/pale lime green. What am i doing wrong? I live in a condo in Canada, and i am not sure of what is affecting it. I water them enough so that the soil is not dry, and they get indirect sunlight. How should i care for them best when i live in a condo, and how long will they last. Can someone please give me some advice?

    Hi Krystal
    It sounds like you have a greenhouse hydrangea. The lime green is the initial color and then it turns a cream color-most likely the variety since there are so many. See the article on Florist hydrangea which should give you information on care and watering problems

    .

    Comment by Krystal — 3/20/2008 @ 11:48 am

  47. We live outside of St Louis, I have a beautiful pink hydrangea and I don’t know what type of soil and drainage is needed to keep it healthy. Our yard is small but I do have full shade, part shade and full sun. From reading others notes, I understand it is probably best part sun. My biggest problem is water, our yard slopes toward the house. It stays wet for quit some time when we have even a little of rain. I would like it close to the house, but, it that is where the soil is very wet. After a rain it normally takes a few days for the soil to dry. Please help!

    You might want to consider building a raised bed toward the house. They are great for areas that have heavy clay or soil that drains poorly. Make it about 6 -8 inches high and fill it with well-drained organic soil with peat moss added which will provide good drainage and ideal root conditions. Replant your hydrangea in the raised bed and place a 2 inch layer of mulch on top. Ideal time is in early spring so you need to do it ASAP before it leafs out .

    Comment by vicki — 3/26/2008 @ 5:22 am

  48. CAN I GROW MY FLORIST HYDRANGEA MACROPHYLIA OUTDOORS IF SO HOW AND WHERE

    Most H. macrophylla are hardy from zone 7a and up. You can plant it outdoors in sun to part shade. If it is not hardy in your area then you will have to grow it in a container and bring it in for the winter. For more info see florist hydrangea

    Comment by rene williams — 5/7/2008 @ 4:22 pm

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