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Norfolk Pine

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Instead of a Christmas tree some may opt for a Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla)which is usually available in stores before Christmas. It may be sold plain or decorated to serve as an alternate mini Christmas tree for those with little space. Once the holiday is over, the Norfolk pine can double as a patio or long-lasting houseplant.

Norfolk pine, belongs to the ancient genus of evergreen conifers, Araucaria, which includes the newly discovered extinct Wollemi pine. It is hardy in zone 10-11. In the wild this semi-tropical tree can get up to 200 ft. tall and grows a massive straight tree trunk with symmetrical lateral branches that produce an impressive sight in the landscape; but when grown indoors as a potted houseplant the diminutive version usually grows up to 8 ft. tall.
Norfolk pines

Care

Indoors, provide a cool, bright filtered light, humid environment with temperatures of 60-72F during the day and slightly cooler at night. They prefer a few hours of direct sun but can adapt to bright indirect light. Be sure to rotate the plant to maintain a symmetric shape and keep the plant from leaning over to one side. They also need 50% humidity which can be difficult to provide during the dry heating season in winter. Some ways to increase humidity is to run a humidifier or if possible use a pebble tray filled with water. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry and let the water drain from the bottom. Do not let it stand in water or saturate the soil, over watering will cause bright yellow needles that eventually fall off. Conversely, keeping the plant too dry with low humidity will cause brown tips. Keep it away from heating vents or cold drafts which can dry out the needles.
Feed your plant when it is actively growing (not winter) with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Feed new, younger plants every 4-6 months and older plants every 3-4 months.
Repot every 3-4 years.
Prune only brown dead lower branches. Do not cut off the growing tips. If the growing top is damaged, it will not be replaced and you will get a misshapen tree.
Pests: Common pests that attack Norfolk pines are spider mites, scale and mealybugs.

Did you know: In nature, Norfolk pine cones take 18 months to mature, then breaks down and the scales produce edible seeds that Green parrots favor.

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24 Comments on Norfolk Pine»

  1. I have beautiful, healthy Norfolk Pine that has grown close to 7ft tall & about 6ft around. Can I trim off the top without causing damage to this tree?? I live in IN and movnig this plant into the house for winter is becoming more difficult each year.

    Unfortunately, Norfolk Pine do not take well to pruning. Cut away only the lower dead branches. If you prune any growing tips you will loose the trees symmetry and will not get new growth. If you trim the tip you’ll have an mishappen tree. Perhaps you have a friend that has a large room for a new plant??

    Comment by Mary — 11/30/2006 @ 11:39 am

  2. Ihave 3 norfolk over 8 feet tall and wonder if I can plant them out doors.I live near Seattle.

    Norfolk pine are hardy in zone 10-11. The lowest temperature they can tolerate is 40 degrees and would be subject to frost damage with temperatures below 32 degrees. You are in zone 9 with average minimum temps of 20-30 degrees. You can try planting one in a protected area and see if it will tolerate the cooler weather.

    Comment by thea brown — 12/18/2006 @ 11:48 pm

  3. Thank you for being there with the info i was looking for

    You are welcome!! Thanks for the comment!!

    Comment by Michael J Gallagher — 12/26/2006 @ 10:52 am

  4. Comment on Plant & Gardening Tips, for topI HAVE A NORFOLK PINE INDOORS AND WOULD LIKE TO TRANSPLANT IT OUTDOORS. I LIVE IN CENTRAL FLORIDA. HOW DO I DO IT?

    If you are in zone 10-11 and temperatures don’t get below 40 degrees, then you can plant it outdoors. Central Fla. is in zone 9. A protected micro-climate near water, in zone 9 may also work but a cold snap of below 40 degrees will cause the tree to turn yellow. Before planting, slowly acclimate the plant to the outdoors . Plant it in soil that has good drainage. Dig a hole that is 2x wider than the container and as deep as the height of the root ball-no deeper. The tree should be at soil level or slightly above. Fill with existing soil and tap on soil to firm and remove air pockets. Water thoroughly and mulch to maintain even moisture. Young trees should not be allowed to dry especially in drought conditions. If needed, stake the tree to provide support. For additional info..go to edis.ifas.ufil.edu/

    Comment by Robert Moore — 1/1/2007 @ 9:11 am

  5. I have 4 Norfolk Pines that are currently growing in the same pot and I would like to separate them… any ideas on how to do this safely? I didn’t know if just making sure the soil was moist before trying would be enough. These Pines are still all under 3 - 4 feet tall. Any tips would be appreciated, thanks!

    The best time to separate your plant is in the spring. To divide and repot your plant ,water earlier in the day to hydrate it. Fill the bottom of your pots with a small amount of dampened (not wet) potting soil mix. Use fresh well drained soil specially formulated for house plants. Carefully knock the plant out of the pot and gently separate the 4 plants noting how much of a root structure each plant has. Each plant should have a healthy root system in order to survive. Quickly place each plant into its pot. Position it at the same soil level it was growing in and fill with more soil up to 1/2 - 1 inch from the rim of the pot. Water thoroughly, allowing the water to drain. When repotting be sure to work quickly to keep the roots from drying out. Place the new plants in a semi shaded area for a week or more to give it time to recuperate from transplanting.

    Comment by S. Bryant — 1/5/2007 @ 9:20 am

  6. I HAVE A NORFOLK PINE AND THE BRANCHES ARE CURLING UNDER AND DRYING UP. THEY ARE NOT BROWN BUT ARE FALLING OFF WHEN DISTURBED. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG? HOW CAN I PREVENT THIS?

    You may be keeping your Norfolk pine too dry. Give your plant a good soaking, water it with tepid water or place it (if you can) in the shower and let it absorb some of the moisture thru its needles. To increase humidity around the plant mist with water and place it on a pebble tray. The hot, dry air indoors is difficult for Norfolk to endure

    .

    Comment by A. HOWARD — 1/23/2007 @ 11:21 am

  7. Excellent. Thank you so much for your contribution. Very good information

    Comment by Doug healy — 1/28/2007 @ 8:38 pm

  8. I live in Old Town, Florida. I have several Norfolk pines in my yard. We just had a cold front and 6 inches of the tip were burned. Is it OK to cut the burned tips off without damaging the tree?

    Norfolk pine don’t take well to pruning. Once the tip turns brown it is dead and you will have to cut it off. Unfortunately, the pruned spot will not produce any new growth. Wait and see how bad the frost damaged your tree ,then cut off only what is neccessary. The tip is the growing point of your tree and once you cut that your tree will still grow sideways but not upright. Your tree will be misshapen. Sometimes a tree can send out another tip from a different growing point

    .

    Comment by Dottie Ratterree — 2/26/2007 @ 5:02 pm

  9. I live in northern California and have two Norfolk Pines. I planted one of them in the ground in the front yard approx. 3 yrs ago(it was 4ft tall then). It is now approx. 12-14ft tall and a friend said I may need to move it away from the house. Do you think I will need to transplant it? I thought for certain the label said they grew to about 20ft tall but did not specify pot or ground.

    Hi Bonnie
    Norfolk pine get from 100 to 200 ft. tall in the wild. See the picture in the above articles. Those are Norfolk pines in the wild in Hawaii.

    Comment by Bonnie Martinez — 3/13/2007 @ 2:13 pm

  10. Thanks for the reponse. I did see that picture and article but since mine is not in the wild, it is in my yard in town (Napa, CA) will it still get that big? Will the house and side walks prevent the root growth so it will stay smaller? I’m concerned because if it will get just as big I will have to move it.

    It has the potential to get that large but its hard to determine whether or not yours will. It will depend on the growing conditions. The roots can work their way under the sidewalk if they have too. When planting, we don’t always think of the tree in its mature size and find that all of a sudden they are bigger and closer to the house than we imagined.

    Comment by Bonnie Martinez — 3/14/2007 @ 10:45 am

  11. I inherited a 10′ Norfolk and for two years it was fine. About two months ago it slowed drinking and the branches were turning brown and falling off. This week I moved it and discovered - it smells horrid/incredibly rancid! I am draining out the excess water (sopping it up with new clean towels incerted twice/day along the drain pan for two days now) to help it as fast as I can. What is going wrong? And what do I do, I LOVE this plant - I named him “Herman” as in Munster, due to its size.

    I’m afraid the plant was waterlogged and doesn’t have adequate drainage causing root rot (rancid smell). With too much water there is no oxygen in the soil and the roots can’t breathe. Dry out the plant and be sure the water drains freely from the bottom of the container. You may have to either repot or add some fresh soil to improve the drainage problem.

    Comment by Jennifer — 4/18/2007 @ 9:36 am

  12. Thanks for the tip for “Herman” my big Norfolk! I let it dry out, repotted with a 3″ layer of pebble on the bottom first (to prevent root rot from coming back) then used Miracle Grow nutrient rich Indoor-plant potting soil, and fed it with “SUPER Thrive” which was recommended by the nursery. Thank you very much…I think he’ll make it now!

    HI Jennifer
    Don’t feed Herman too much. the new soil already has some nutrients in it and since the roots are damaged, they are incapable of absorbing nutrients. Give them time to re-grow. Once you see new life in the tree then fertilize.

    Comment by Jennifer — 4/22/2007 @ 4:55 pm

  13. We live in Melbourne Australia and are suffering from a very long drought can you advise the root structure of a Norfolk Pine. Are they as deep as they are tall or are they more prostrate.
    We are having trouble with our home moving due to the lack of rain and our Norfolk Pine tree is 30 years old and at least 15metres tall… We are trying to establish if this tree could also be doing damage to our structure.
    Many thanks Melissa

    Hi Melissa,
    The roots are more prostrate, extending far beyond the drip line of the branches. Roots will often go deeper in search of water. Check out this site http://www.archicentre.com.au/survival_kit/cracking_brick.pdf it may be of some help to you.

    Comment by MELISSA — 4/26/2007 @ 10:36 pm

  14. I have had my Norfolk pine since March, and it was doing well until about a month ago. It is in a window that gets hot afternoon sun (unfortunately there is no other window I can move it to) so I began to water it more frequently when I noticed that the soil was drying more quickly. Now the branches are turning brown and falling off. I have cut back on watering but the browning is continuing. I also notice a greyish film starting to cover some of the branches? Is this evidence of spider mites? What can I do to try to save my tree? Thank you.

    Browning edges usually indicate not enough water and lack of humidity, if the plant was yellowing and dropping needles inside then its getting too much water. Check the soil(stick your finger into the soil) and water when the top inch is dry. Your soil may be so dry that the water runs right through it and doesn’t allow the roots to absorb any moisture. If so, allow the plant to sit in the water for 1/2 hour and then drain any excess. A western exposure (hot afternoon sun) is not the ideal spot. If its possible, place it outdoors for the summer in a semi shaded area. If this grayish film or “off color” has some fine silky webbing on it, then you may have spider mites, one of the common pests of Norfolk pines. One treatment a Florida entomologist recommended is to spray the plant with 1% of olive oil and 1% dishdetergent mixed with water.

    Comment by Nancy — 7/1/2007 @ 1:54 pm

  15. We live in El Paso, Texas and have kept a Norfolk Pine in our garden room since 1992. It is now a little over 6 feet tall with droopy foliage at the top and a long trunk. As it was a gift when my father died, I’d like to try to save it. Is there a way to air root it and start a new tree and perhaps bonsai it?

    Yes, you can air layer the growing tip. It will take a few months to develop roots. Here’s a link http://coop.co.pinellas.fl.us/Commhort/publications/propagation.htm

    Comment by Jim — 7/2/2007 @ 9:28 am

  16. I have a large potted Norfolk pine on an outside porch, I live in Ohio and need to put it in my garage for the winter. Should I burlap it? How much should I water it in the winter? Thanks!

    Norfolk pines are tropical evergreens and can tolerate temepratures to 45 degrees. They will need bright indirect light and cooler temperatures during the winter. I think you need to find a space indoors as it will survive not in the garage. Place your plant in a shaded area for a few weeks before bringing it indoors to acclimate it to lower indoor light conditions.

    Comment by Cindy — 9/20/2007 @ 5:46 am

  17. I just purchased 2 Norfolk Pines. I plan to keep them indoors until spring. Will I be able to plant them outdoors in Clarksville, TN and will they survive and grow in our climate?

    Clarksville, Tn is in hardy zone 6b. Norfolk pines are hardy in zones 10-11. They would not survive in your climate. They cannot tolerate temperatures below 45 degrees.

    Comment by Julie — 11/10/2007 @ 6:55 am

  18. I live in Bakersfield California and purchased my first Norfolk Island Palm at the Grocery store, it’s beautiful. I know its hot and dry on the patio even in the shade outdoors. Question is how do I keep it alive in the house all seasons? thank you.

    Give it the same conditions as a houseplant. They like cool, filtered light and high humidity. I would imagine that the plant would be fine outdoors during the winter as long as the temperatures don’t get below 40 degrees. If the summer gets too hot move it indoors or a shaded spot. Be sure to water it regularily on hot days

    .

    Comment by cheryl — 11/29/2007 @ 12:12 pm

  19. I HAVE A GREAT NORFOLK PINE TREE IN MY BACK YARD. IT IS 12 YEARS OLD AND NOW STANDS APPROX 15 MTRS . I LIVE IN THE STATE OF QUEENSLAND IN AUSTRALIA.WE HAVE MANY NORFOLK PINES IN OUR TOWN AND SURROUNDING AREA AND MY QUESTION IS ,WE LIVE IN A CYCLONIC ZONE PLACE AND CAN GET QUIET GUSTY AND WINDY BUT I HAVE NEVER SEEN A TREE BLOWN OVER YET PLENTY OF OTHER SPIECES OF TREES HAVE .IS THERE ANY REASON FO THIS SUCH AS THEIR ROOT SYSTEM .

    Norfolk pine has a shallow wide root system that thrives in deep sand. It is wind resistant because its structure. It adjusts its growth to wind velocity, thereby adjusting to the environment. That’s why the older trees can be misshapen or “deformed” when growing in a windy location. They will blow over in a hurricane especially if the roots aren’t deep enough.

    Comment by max anderson — 12/31/2007 @ 4:32 pm

  20. Sadly, my aunt just passed away at Yule and I have been named caretaker of her Norfolk Pine. I have been told that they do not do well when within close proximity to other house plants. I would like to know if this is true and if so, which plants give them grief and how far away is tolerable? Thanks for your help. Ruby Duhamel

    My condolenceses on the loss of your Aunt. Houseplants are grouped together because they increase the humidity around them which they need . The only time you need to be careful is when one of the houseplant is infested with insects, then you need to isolate the infested plant from all the others to keep the problem from spreading.

    Comment by Ruby Duhamel — 1/19/2008 @ 2:54 pm

  21. HOW DO YOU MAKE A PEBBLE TRAY?

    I was wondering if someone would ask that question. A pebble tray basically consists of flat container that is 2-6 inches deep, can be an old cookie sheet, plastic tray-anything you can find that is waterproof. Place an even layer of pebbles, gravel or stone about 1/2″ diameter. Pour water over the pebbles, keeping the water level just below the top of the pebbles. Place your plant on the pebble tray. The best result is if the tray is as big as the spread of the plant. The leaves will benefit from the rising water vapor(humidity). Make sure you replenish the water keeping the tray from drying out. If you don’t have any pebbles etc. place a brick or wooden block in the middle of a tray and stand your plant in it. It will also work. You just want to keep the bottom of the pot from sitting in water. Grouping plants in a pebble tray is an effective way to increase humidity.

    Comment by MECHELL SANDER — 2/3/2008 @ 3:11 pm

  22. Hi ‘ I live on the mid eastern coast of australia and have a healthy 20ft. norfolk pine in my front garden right where I want to put a swimming pool . My daughter would like me to dig it up to transplant to her home. I would like to know the best way to successfully do this I have a small excavator and bob cat at my disposal to use for this project. could you please give me some advice as to how deep/ wide I need to dig to move it with minimal damage.
    thanks Joanne.

    Hi Joanne
    The best rule of thumb I have found was to measure the diameter of the tree. For each 1 inch dia. dig a hole 12″ wide (1ft) and 6″ deep. Therefore, if you have a 5 inch diameter dig a hole wide 60″ (5 ft) and 30″ (2 1/2ft) deep. Dig the hole 2x the size of the rootball and amend the soil for good drainage. It’s best to do this when the tree is dormant late winter. Be sure to keep the plant well watered after transplanting.

    Comment by joanne ayres — 2/3/2008 @ 9:59 pm

  23. I have (had?) a lovely small Norfolk Pine, about 3.5 ft tall with lush green branches. I was in the process of moving, so put it out on the patio for a couple of nights and I know it got too cold. Now the upper 2/3 of the tree is a brownish-gold color, but the needles do not appear dry. I’m sure this is freeze damage – Washington DC – but I’m wondering if it can be saved. It’s inside now. The bottom 1/3 of plant looks pretty good. Will the upper branches fall off eventually or should they be pruned with the hope of saving the rest and possible regrowth. I hate that this happened as it was such a pretty little tree and I want to save it, if at all possible.

    If it was frost damage the needles will eventually drop. It’s a matter of time. Norfolk pine do not take well to pruning and will result in a misshappen tree. Wait and see what the top 2/3 is going to do, if it dries up then I would give up on the tree. It may not be worth the effort. Also see above comment about pruning on 2/26/07

    Comment by Linda — 2/10/2008 @ 7:40 pm

  24. Well, I’m crossing my fingers. I could always just have a “golden Norfolk pine“…is it possible that it would go back to green if it’s NOT frost damage?

    Once it starts to turn yellow, it will not revert back. Eventually, the needle will dry out and drop. If it was a case of chlorosis (lack of iron) then a plant can be “greened” up with nutrients. Sorry, can’t give you better news. You can always spray it green (ha, ha)

    Comment by Linda — 2/12/2008 @ 6:02 am

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