Norfolk Pine

11/18/2006 · by · in Garden Review, Norfolk pine

Instead of a Christmas tree some may opt for a Norfolk pine (Araucaria heterophylla)which is usually available in stores before Christmas. It may be sold plain or decorated to serve as an alternate mini Christmas tree for those with little space. Once the holiday is over, the Norfolk pine can double as a patio or long-lasting houseplant.
Norfolk Island pine

Norfolk pine, belongs to the ancient genus of evergreen conifers, Araucaria, which includes the newly discovered extinct Wollemi pine. It is hardy in zone 10-11. In the wild this semi-tropical tree can get up to 200 ft. tall. Norfolk pine grows a massive straight tree trunk with symmetrical lateral branches that are an impressive sight in the landscape. When grown indoors as a potted houseplant the diminutive version usually grows up to 8 ft. tall.
Norfolk pines

Care

Indoors provide a cool, bright filtered light, humid environment with temperatures of 60-72F during the day and slightly cooler at night. They prefer a few hours of direct sun but can adapt to bright indirect light. Be sure to rotate the plant to maintain a symmetric shape and keep the plant from leaning over to one side. Norfolk pine also need 50% humidity which can be difficult to provide during the dry heating season in winter. Some ways to increase humidity is to run a humidifier or use a pebble tray filled with water.

Water when the top inch of soil feels dry and let the water drain from the bottom. Do not let it stand in water or saturate the soil, over watering will cause bright yellow needles that eventually fall off. Conversely, keeping the plant too dry with low humidity will cause brown tips. Keep it away from heating vents or cold drafts which can dry out the needles.

Feed your plant when it is actively growing (not winter) with a diluted, balanced houseplant fertilizer every 3-4 weeks. Feed new, younger plants every 4-6 months and older plants every 3-4 months.
Repot every 3-4 years.

Prune only brown dead lower branches. Do not cut off the growing tips. If the growing top is damaged, it will not be replaced and you will get a misshapen tree.

Pests: Common pests that attack Norfolk pines are spider mites, scale and mealybugs.

Did you know: In nature, Norfolk pine cones take 18 months to mature, then break down. The scales produce edible seeds that Green parrots favor.

138 Responses

Amy Lurken

12/11/2011 at 9:19 am · Reply →

Also, one is leaning with little foliage on the side that is pointed more “upward” because of the lean. Can this be fixed by turning that side out toward the window to straighten back up?

Yes, rotating the plant will give it even light exposure. Plants will naturally “bend” toward the light.
Amy Lurken

12/11/2011 at 9:15 am · Reply →

I just bought two Norfolk yesterday for very cheap at a Wal-mart. Some of the low branches that are down inside the pot are brittle (I assume they didn’t get enough light and probably weren’t watered yet since they received them). I watered them today (about16-20oz per each 2.11 gal pot) and they are sitting on a desk in the east windows with blinds partially closed to make the light more indirect. One has ornaments on it already, and the other does not. I have read that you should take the ornaments off as soon as possible. Should I un-decorate it for now? Is there anything special I should do for them? I have them sitting next to each other to hopefully help with humidity. I thought about putting a pan of water in front of the vent underneath the desk (plants are protected from the stream of air and the are about 3 ft from windows (I think I may move them farther back at night since it may seem drafty.

Hi Amy
You can leave the ornaments on until Christmas but then take them off after the holiday. Grouping plants together is always a good thing. To increase humidity you can place them on a pebble tray. The article above has more info on the care of your Norfolk pine. p.s Be sure to water less in the winter.

.
Michele

11/23/2011 at 2:21 am · Reply →

We have a 70 foot Norfolk Pine in our back yard where we live at Coogee Beach. Since a thunderstorm 2weeks ago the branches which are laden with cones are falling off, this has bent the clothes line ..The branches have white sap ozzing from the….do you think it could have been struck by lightening..? Its an otherwise healthy tree with lots of new growth..can you advise..

Hi Michele
I suspect the oozing sap is from storm damage from which the tree should recover. Remove/cut off any broken branches. If it was struck by lightning you might see a burn line down the trunk with strips of loose bark. more tree damage info http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/tree_damage.html
barb

11/1/2011 at 12:45 pm · Reply →

Milky sap
my beloved norfolk lose needles & has a milky white dried looking substance on sections of branches & needles.Top appears unaffected. Just lower. Also looks like trunk is cracked open slightly & leaking in the middle .have used neem oil. tried systemic bayer 4 desease & fungus but seems 2 have put it in another cycle of the above!Not sure if this is disease or fungus or bugs or scale ?

Hi Barb
I sounds like there is some damage either insect or physical, to the branches where the sap is leaking causing the milky white substance. The splitting bark can be due to fluctuating growing conditions either too dry then too wet followed by excessive healthy growth. You can have a dry spell and then a good rain which can cause healthy, vigorous growth causing the bark to split especially in thin barked trees. Splitting bark can make the tree susceptible to disease. Is this tree outdoors or is it a potted plant?
JANET HUNTER

7/13/2011 at 10:44 am · Reply →

Repot
Hello:
I have two N.I.P. trees – one is almost 4ft in a 12″ pot and the other is just over 4 ft in a 14″ pot. I’m trying to decide if I should replant into a bigger pot. They are doing so great right now although one is leaning a bit. Can’t remember the last time I repotted. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Janet

Hi Janet
Norfolk pine should be repotted every 3-4 years. If the roots are growing out of the bottom of the pot, then its time for a larger heavy container which will help with the tipping problem. Since the plant is growing well, I would leave well enough alone. You can topdress the container-that is remove some of the old soil on top and replace it with fresh soil for now If you want to repot, best to do so in late winter.
Lisa

6/26/2011 at 5:15 pm · Reply →

My pine seems healthy, but the lower branches droop. Upper, newer layers are fine – the branches grow perfectly flat, not upwards as in your picture – but as they age, they sag. Sort of like people? Should I transplant?

Hi Lisa
Drooping and browning lower branches is from old age and low light. If the rest of the plant is growing and healthy, then leave well enough alone. If the plant has been in the same pot for 4 years or more and the roots are growing out of the bottom holes then you can repot your plant.
Patty

6/11/2011 at 3:45 pm · Reply →

My Norfolk pine is looking a little ‘leggie’ (for lack of a better word). The bottom branches are somewhat close together however as it grows the branches are getting further apart (about 8″). All the Norfolk pines I’ve seen are bush like with branches close together. Is there a trick to getting it to become more bushey?

Hi Patty
To get a bushy plant you need to provide the plant with optimal growing conditions of sun, humidity and nutrients. Pruning is usually not recommended, but a very light trim can encourage some bushier growth.
Norfolk pine normally grows in airy layers that have an open look to them as they get older.
Mary Jane

6/7/2011 at 8:48 pm · Reply →

Brown lower branches
I have a tree that I started at about 7 inches it is well over 7ft tall……..such a pretty plant such a shame unable to plant this outside here in St Louis, MO……..do understand the cold weather will kill it…………..

One problem always seems that the bottom branch turn brown and I have to cut them off………..any ideas for this problem? thanks, Mary Jane

Hi Mary Jane
Lower branches will turn brown over time from aging and low light. In addition, brown tips and lower brown branches on a Norfolk pine is an indicator of dehydration or low humidity. Improve the moisture around the plant by misting, humidifier, pebble tray or grouping plants together. Trim off the lower brown stems.
tricia madden

6/3/2011 at 6:40 am · Reply →

i believe i put a 20 y/o n.p. outside too early-we put out in spring bring in b4 first frost…branches turned brown very quickly…i pruned the tree, but think i went tooooo far w/ pruning…will ANYTHING come back?? i used as x-mas tree last yr. please tell me i didn’t kill this guy.

Hi Tricia
The cold weather killed it. If any growth comes back will you actually want the tree?
Mark Hepokoski

5/31/2011 at 6:49 am · Reply →

Place outdoors for the summer
We have a pine that is 17 yers old and about 6 feet tall and I think in pretty good health. We live in northern MN and are wondering if it would help the tree if we put it on our deck during June – mid September.

Hi Mark
Norfolk pine would enjoy a summer vacation outdoors. Just make sure you slowly acclimate the tree to the higher light conditions or you will cause more harm than good. Put it in the shade for starters .
Bill Bright

5/19/2011 at 2:47 pm · Reply →

I have a Norfolk Island Pine that is about 16 feet tall. This past winter, we have 2-3 days of below 32 degrees. The first couple of months, the tree seemed fine, then almost all the branch needles turned rusty brown. There are 4 branches that are still green. Some of the branches has hardened sap where the branch meets the trunk. Will this tree survive? What can I do to make it healthy again? I am very proud of this tree.

Hi Bill
I can’t tell you if your tree will survive. At this time, give the tree some fertilizer and make sure it gets enough water.
Marie

5/16/2011 at 8:03 pm · Reply →

Transplant shock
Hi, I recently repotted my norfolk pine, and about a week later it started to droop. any suggestions?

Hi Marie
It is most likely in transplant shock and is sulking. Keep it in indirect light for a few weeks until it recovers. (Optional) the next time you water, add a root starter to stimulate new root growth.
Carolyns Yarns

4/26/2011 at 9:02 am · Reply →

Brown needles
why do norfolk pine needles turn brown and fall off?
Pest, not enought water or too much — needs pine food??

Hi Carolyns
Browning needles usually indicate not enough water and lack of humidity. Check the soil(stick your finger into the soil) and water when the top inch is dry. Your soil may be so dry that the water runs right through and doesnâ€™t allow the roots to absorb any moisture. If so, allow the plant to sit in the water for 1/2 hour and then drain any excess. Browning lower branches can be from old age and low light.
Carol

4/19/2011 at 10:06 am · Reply →

Fungus gnats
Have a Norfolk Pine that is three years old. Now noticing very small black flies on top of the soil and gathering around the windows where the plant stands. Once they hang around the daylight coming thru the windows, they die. What kind of a fly is this and what do I use to get rid of them. I have been spraying this tree with an insecticide for indoor plants, but just doesn’t seem to help. My thoughts are to remove the tree from the soil and then replant with fresh soil.

Hi Carol
It sounds like you have fungus gnats in the soil. They occur when the soil is kept too wet.
sue rotkiske

4/4/2011 at 5:48 pm · Reply →

my tree is about 20 yrs old. it’s been relatively healthy until i brought it in at the end of last summer. i have the fingers of the branches falling off on a daily basis. nothing has changed with the plant’s location, or temps, i guess i’m wondering if the tree is dying or is it just sick. how long do n.f.p.’s live on average?? thanks!

Hi Sue
Hard to say what is going on, first I would check on the watering. Too much water/poor drainage/compacted soil can cause root rot. Although 20 years is a long time for an indoor plant. As they get older, they become prone to disease. Look closely at the needles-are there any tiny black spects on the needles?
Given the right environment, Norfolk pine can live hundreds of years oudoors.
carolyn

3/9/2011 at 3:51 pm · Reply →

I have a norfolk pine. It is still green. But the pine needles are dry and breaking.
Does this mean they are dead? Will it come back?

Hi Carolyn
If the needles are dropping, they will not come back. Increase the humidity around the plant and check for spider mites.
edi tipton

2/28/2011 at 3:17 pm · Reply →

Air layering

Hello, I have a Norfolk Pine that i have been growing for many years from a sapling that i took of a girlfriends pine. It is now to tall for my 8-9 foot ceilings so had to leave in the garage for the winter, which it seemed to like. At least the bottom 4 feet is trunk and i was wondering if I could cut a notch and put rooting compound there with any success at making a new root system to make my tree shorter. All i have found with the web searches are grafting from one plant to another so don’t know if I am looking up the right termalogy for what I am wanting to do. I really hate to throw another pine in the compost bin so would really like some help.I saw something like this on Victory Garden many years ago but even the old book I have does not cover this……

Hi Edi
I think what you want to do is air layering. I have seen it done with some tropical plants like Rubber plant, dieffenbachias, crotons and Norfok pine when they get too tall and loose their lower leaves. It can take several months to a year for an evergreen to develop roots especially with older the specimens. Give it a try and let us know how you did. I found some info on this site. http://www.herbs2000.com/flowers/b_air_layer.htm Good luck.
Donna

2/28/2011 at 8:22 am · Reply →

Cold damage
The cold snap we had here in Houston has apparently killed my relatively small Norfolk pine. I have cut the tree back to just stubs in the dirt…..any chance it will grow back?

Hi Donna
If the roots are allive, it may send out new growth from the base of the plant. Time will tell.
Lori Busch

1/30/2011 at 6:59 am · Reply →

Yellow needles
A friend gave me her Norfolk pine when they moved to Canada, I have the tree in my living room which faces southeast. The room has a wood burning stove for
heat and I am wondering if I should spray mist the tree as some of the lower branches are beginning to turn yellow. I have the tree on a tray so it can drain when I water but I have never misted it. I am wondering if the stove is taking the humidity out of the room and this might be causing the yellow as I check the soil for dryness before I water. Also, how often should I feed the plant? Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Regards,
Lori

Hi Lori
The dry air will have an effect on your Norfolk pine, as they a need cool, bright and humid environment. Misting can help but it is a short term remedy-a humidifier would work better. Usually the tips will turn brown from the dry air but since yours are turning yellow, it may be a watering issue. Make sure that the plant is not sitting in any excess water. Over watering will cause bright yellow needles that eventually fall off.
Feed your pine in the spring when it starts to grow again. If the plant has been in the pot for a long time, the soil nutrients have been washed out. If you suspect a nutrition problem (lack of nitrogen) give it a 1/2 dose of a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients included and then wait until spring to feed your pine again.
Lyn

1/28/2011 at 10:47 pm · Reply →

Hi there,
My daughter gave me a lovely NI Pine tree for my birthday (as I’m writing about one). It’s 6-7 years old and is 174 cm from where it comes out of the soil in the pot, which is just about up to the gutting of our roof. I want to keep it outside and stunt its growth by keeping it in a pot and trimming the roots from time to time.

It’s sitting out on our decking (facing north) and gets late morning and afternoon sun. This can be quite hot but I have its pot inside another ceramic pot with river stones between the two, so the difference between the temperature of the inside pot is quite cool in comparison with the outside one. I’m after some tips to look after it well.

We’re in Melbourne, Australia, so it’s our summer now. I’ve looked through the postings above and have gathered I shouldn’t repot it any more than every 3-4 years and I knew about them not liking too much water. Just to confirm, should I water it well (making sure it drains) once a week and let it dry out during the winter before watering? What about on stinking hot days during summer – can I water it more than once a week?

Also, what about fertilising – should that be in our spring? The fertiliser I tend to use is Seasol (highly refined liquid plant conditioner containing extract of Bull Kelp (Durvillaea potatorum), as well as extract of Ascophyllum nodosum). Would something like that be okay, and how much would I use and how often?
Hope you can help. Many thanks.

Hi Lyn
You should water your Norfolk pine well in the summer and especially during the hot weather. They need and use more moisture during the summer, especially if they are actively growing. You may have to water more than once a week. Make sure the water can drain out from the bottom of the pot so that the roots don’t sit in water-that’s where problems start. During your winter, keep the soil on the dry side. Check the soil moisture, if the top 2 inches are dry then water.
I’m not familiar with the fertilizer. Norfolk pine do not need a lot of fertilizer, feed the plant in spring and every 3-4 months with a balanced formula and it should do well. Don’t feed in the winter.
Shellie

1/19/2011 at 8:52 pm · Reply →

Cold damage
I was given a beautiful Norfolk pine (7′, healthy). I transported it 45 minutes in 35-40 degree van to my home. It enjoys a humid spot (next to the hot tub, inside) in a big southern exposure window. Some of the branches are browning in the middle and some have become limp (dry) and dull. While some remain beautiful. Is my tree in shock? How can I help it? And is there anything to do with the branches that are browning from the middle? how do I prune it – or don’t I?

Hi Shellie
Your Norfolk pine probably had some cold damage. There is not much you can do. They prefer a cool, humid environment so make sure the “hot tub” is not too hot for the tree. Before you do any pruning wait and see what happens to the browning branches. Once they turn completely brown, then you can cut them out. In the spring give it a dose of fertilizer to stimulate new growth.
angie

1/15/2011 at 5:00 am · Reply →

How do you promote the tree to grow bushier,fuller?

Hi Angie
Its usually not recommended to prune Norfolk to make them bushier. The natural grow habit is an airy layered tree. The only pruning that is done is to remove dead and dry branches.
Addison

1/8/2011 at 3:28 am · Reply →

Grow outdoors
I purchased a Star Island Pine from a Nursery and a Norfolk Pine from Home Depot, are they the same trees? I live in Carson, California, approximately 15 miles from Long Beach and 20 Miles from Los Angles. I planted both trees outside the day after Christmas (2010). They are about 2-3 feet tall. What should I do to make sure both survive…one’s in the front yard, the other in the back. They both get the same exposure to the Sun and drainage.

Hi Addison
Both are the same. Norfolk pine are hardy in zone 10-11 and will not tolerate frost or temperature below 40F. They like full sun, high humidity and cooler temperatures around 60-72. Make sure the newly planted trees are in well-drained soil and get enough moisture especially during dry spells. You can also water the tree with a root starter to help develop new roots. If they are in a windy area, stake the plants for support.
pearsrus

1/5/2011 at 9:24 pm · Reply →

I have 2 norfolk pines that I would like to keep in their pots but put outside now the Christmas time is over…. Will they make it in zone 9 in Ca out side under an overhang for the rest of the year??

Hi Pearsrus
Norfolk pine are hardy in zone 10-11 where temperatures donâ€™t get below 40 degrees. It should be fine in a protected area. If there is an eminent drop in temperatures (a freeze) bring it back indoors during that time.
kelly

12/28/2010 at 7:28 pm · Reply →

Pruning Norfolk pine
i have a 15 foot norfolk pine in my living room its 17 years old. six foot of it totally bare at the bottom but the top other 9 feet to top is beautiful> i live in cheyenne wyoming, if i cut the top off will the bottom grow branches?” hardly water it cuz was told not to, will branches grow back on the 6feet at the lower part if i do nothing? WILL APPRECIATE ANY INFO CUZ ITS BEEN IN THE FAMILY A LONG TIME.

Hi Kelly
Most likely you will not get new branches growing from the lower 6 feet of the trunk even if you cut the top off. However, it can send out new lateral growth on the healthy branches above the 6 ft of the trunk. Norfolk pine does not take well to pruning. For more info see.. http://hortchat.com/info/pruning-norfolk-pine
debbie

11/27/2010 at 5:23 am · Reply →

Tip dieback
We have a mature Norfolk Pine that is approx 70 years old. I have noticed that the spire at the top has turned white and the top four branches appear to have died.Does this mean that the tree is dying?Is there anything we can do to help it as it is a beautiful tree and we would hate to loose it.

Norfolk pine Tip dieback common causes. Disease and insect.
1. Diplodea, top of Norfolk Pine dies, usually shortly after lightning storm, also caused by ozone.
2. Golden mealy bug, a sap sucker that progresses to leaf eater.
James

11/11/2010 at 4:07 pm · Reply →

Hello! I just inherited a 4.5′ Norfolk Pine. I live in Central Indiana. The tree belonged to a client for several years and was in her sun room. I really like the tree. When picking it up, I loosley tied the branches and up covered with a couple of sheets. It was probably 45 degrees that day and windy. The tree was in the back of my truck for the 45 minute ride to it’s new home. I have had it a week and I am seeing a couple of the branches needles yellowing. Is this from the transport (temps and wind)? If so, is there anything I can do for it? Will they correct themselves with time?
Thanks,
James

Hi James
It’s possible that the cold had an affect on the plant but it sounds like you protected it during the move. Yellowing needles usually indicate overwatering(keeping the soil too wet). A change in environment, less light exposure can also stress the plant. Once the needles start to yellow, there’s nothing you can do to change it but give it optimal growing conditions so that it can recover. Norfolk pine like bright filtered light, and a cool,humid environment with temperatures of 60-72F during the day and slightly cooler at night. They prefer a few hours of direct sun but can adapt to bright indirect light. Good luck with your new plant.
Bruce

10/16/2010 at 9:04 pm · Reply →

Broken tree top
I have two Norfolk Island pines growing together in a pot. They are both about 4 feet tall. Today I accidentally broke the top two inches off one of the trees. I was upset, as I had carefully put the trees outside for the summer to grow taller and grow larger. What happens when a top is broken? Will this tree grow a new “leader” growing upwards with new lateral branches as it grows? Thanks for your help and insight.

Hi Bruce
It’s possible that a new lateral branch can be trained to grow upright. http://hortchat.com/info/pruning-norfolk-pine
Liz

9/10/2010 at 8:41 pm · Reply →

Hi, great site!

I bought a stunning Norfolk Pine about 5 years ago at Christmas. Long story short, I put lights on it (because I was told I could) and left them on every night for weeks. Most of the tree died. I felt awful.

I moved the bit that survived to a completely covered outdoor patio (sides and back were covered) where it lived and actually did quite well for years. It is now about 4.5 feet high. It lost most of its lower branches during that one Christmas, but it has a very healthy looking set of upper branches that start about 1.5 feet up the trunk (I just noticed today that it has more new growth emerging at the top; very cool). Even with the damage, it is a graceful plant and I love it.

I have now moved to the Northern CA Coast (Pacifica), where I live about a mile up from the ocean, facing the water in the front. It is often foggy and the air is nearly always moist to wet, probably salty, but seldom really cold (rarely gets below 40 degrees, and then only at night, during the winter).

My questions are these: (1) Do you think the tree can survive the Northern CA coast or should I re-home it? (I can wheel it in the garage on those rare nights when the temps are expected to dip below 40).
(2) is it better to keep it under a covered deck in the back yard (not facing the water), where it will receive bright light and some filtered sun from the sides (which are not covered) when the sun is actually out (again, lots of fog in my area), but be somewhat sheltered from the wet air, wind and other elements, OR leave it in the backyard outside the protection of the deck, where it will receive much more light and sun (when it is not overcast) but where it will also be exposed to more wind, wet air, fog, etc. ? (I could also move it around, but think it might prefer that I pick one spot).
(3) How will I know that it is time to repot it?
Thanks for your help.

Hi Liz
Norfolk pine like bright, cool temps and humidity. It may survive outdoors in N. Ca coast. I would take my chances and plant it facing the ocean where it will receive more light and sun. They grow naturally up on hills, facing the wind and humidity of the oceans. Plant it soon and give it some protection the first year after planting so the tree has a chance to “toughen up” and acclimate to the new environment.
Mary

9/2/2010 at 4:12 am · Reply →

Hi, i’ve been keeping my Norfolk Pine indoors and it was doing just fine until 2 weeks ago. it started to look depressed with the branches going downward and the top becomming kindda dry and hard.. 🙁
i’m wondering if the A/C is making the apartment too chilly for the plant as it is located almost right opposite the A/C .. can you help me find out how i can freshen up my plant again and help keep the branches all upward and happy and also can you tell me if i can put it outdoors on the balcony where there is direct sunshine?
thank you

Hi Mary

Air conditioning can be a problem.
Mark

8/28/2010 at 1:36 pm · Reply →

Splitting bark
My 20″ outdoor Norfolk has sap oozing on the lower trunk from what appears to be about a 4-6″ perpendicular crease in the bark. It hardens and more oozes over to create more hardened lumps. Could this be the beginnings of a split in the trunk or is this a natural occurance? Thanks!

Hi Mark
Splitting bark can be due to fluctuating growing conditions either too dry then too wet followed by excessive healthy growth. You can have a dry spell and then a good rain which can cause healthy, vigorous growth causing the bark to split especially in thin barked trees. Splitting bark can make the tree susceptible to disease. The oozing sap can also be a sign of insect damage. Barring insect damage, a healthy tree should callus naturally and heal.
Janice

8/25/2010 at 11:45 pm · Reply →

Pruning Norfolk pine
I have a Norfolk Island Pine that is about 20 years old. It lives happily in a pot near my east facing windows and it’s grown about an inch a year since I got it. My problem is not health or how tall it is getting but how WIDE it is. It takes up about four feet square of floor space and I am running out of room for it horizontally! I have no problem leaving the top alone to keep growing, but can I prune the horizontal growth (tip the branches)? I don’t want to ruin the tree but I will have to find a new home for it if it continues to do crowd me out of my dining room! Just six inches off the end of each branch (the top ones are much longer than the ones below them) would make all the difference in the world to keeping this plant. Any comments, suggestions, advice?

Hi Janice
Pruning the side branches should not harm the tree. Keep in mind that the area that is pruned will not regrow but the branch can send out new growth in other parts of the branch. More info see pruning Norfolk pine
Debbie Doyl

7/18/2010 at 11:53 am · Reply →

Norfolk pine freeze damage
Have a beautiful 20′ Norfolk pine. Living in Houston, had several hard freezes (the pine has survived several in past years). All exposed branches are brown and tree appeared to be dead. Several weeks ago, I noticed green branches sprouting above the dead branches. Now, entire tree seems to have green sprouts directly above the dead brown branches. Top of tree is still brown with no new growth. I know it’s not dead because of the new growth, but what should I do? Cut back the dead branches allowing the new growth? Being 20′ tall, I’d have to hire someone to reach to top. Looking for suggestions

Hi Debbie
I consulted with your local county agent regarding Norfolk pine freeze damage.
Here’s what she had to say: Unfortunately, the verdict is still out on this one. Here, in Brazoria County, I have been monitoring some NIPs that still have some live tissue. So far, there is little sign of recovery. Since all have lost their terminal growing tips, growth from the top has ceased. The questions that remain are: 1) will the trees survive long term?l, and 2) if yes, then will they ever look as good again? If you are patient, you can remove dead branches and wait on your tree’s fate. If not, you can cut it to the round and nurture a new shoot to maturity.
-Paula Craig
County Agent-Horticulture
http://extension.org

Hope this helps. Kris
Brenda

6/12/2010 at 6:28 pm · Reply →

I live in Harrisburg Pa. I have a Norfolk pine for 30 years. all of a sudden it has started to loose its needles it turns a lighter shade of green and just falls off. It is 8 ft tall and has not been moved, for over 10 years, other than turning it. what is wrong with it. I repotted it last year now I can not pick it up, it only has 1 more foot till it hit my celing what do I do then.any sugestions? I have hardly have any branched inside now

Hi Brenda
Your Norfolk pine may be kept too wet. Over watering will cause bright yellow needles that eventually fall off.
Vel Lou

6/2/2010 at 8:03 am · Reply →

Leaning Norfolk pine
I have a beautiful 50 – 60′ Norfolk Pine in South Texas, (McAllen). It has started to lean towards our neighbor’s home. It has a lean of about 4′ from center. Should we have it removed.

Hi Vel
Sorry, I really can’t advise you on this. You might consult an arborist. If the tree falls on your neighbors property and does damage, you may be liable for the damage.
Susan

6/2/2010 at 5:52 am · Reply →

I bought a Norfolk Pine six months ago. I live in the Yukon and my plant sits in a northwest window and gets many many hours of day light, it is growing a lot, I think that it is time to repot. I was told these plants do not like repotting. My tree is in a 9″ pot right now how big of a pot can I safely move it to.

Hi Susan
You can repot it into a container that is 1-2″ larger in diameter.
Me

5/27/2010 at 12:41 am · Reply →

I have a Norfolk Pine in my back yard, it is fully grown and extremely old. We have had a lot of rain lately, and I was just wondering if this would make the roots grow more, or would they stop growing once the tree stops?

Hi Me
A live tree will always continue to grow more roots in order to supply the needles/leaves with water and nutrients.
robert

5/23/2010 at 12:18 pm · Reply →

I live in League City Texas, about 20 minute south of Houston, and we have two Norfolks planted in the ground. They were potted about six years and before we replanted them. They are both between fifteen to twenty feet tall. Had a pretty bad winter this last season and both seem to have died. I notice about two weeks ago some new shoots growing off the larger trunks about two feet off the ground. Does it sound like any chance for survival?

Hi Robert
It sounds like there is some life left to the tree but it may be a last stich effort. Once the main branches are brown, they will not regreen. I guess you will have to wait and see.
Juan

4/25/2010 at 8:41 am · Reply →

browning tree
Hello;
I have a big (35ft) Norfolk Island tree that the buttom pines/branches started to turn brown now it goes all the way to the top. It is huge so I can’t transplant or move, is it dead or can I do something to save it?

Hi Juan
It sounds like is on the road to no return. I’m afraid its dying. Once yellowing/browning starts, there is nothing you can do.
charla

4/24/2010 at 7:43 pm · Reply →

Wounded Pine
Our norfolk pine seems healthy enough (it is a ‘rescue’ tree – and it’s about 4 years old, about 5′ tall) and resides in a pot on a protected porch. it survived the unseasonably cold winter in houston in the garage. the trunk suddenly has a pretty deep ‘wound’ at the very base. the split is a bit sappy. what should we do to prevent any further damage and repair this? thanks!

Hi Charla
There is nothing you can do. The tree will heal the wound on its own. I’m not sure why the trunk split. It could have happened if you had a drastic change in temperatures. This causes contraction and expansion of the bark causing it to split.
Lisa

4/21/2010 at 2:21 pm · Reply →

Prune Norfolk pine
Hello, my Norfolk pine is 10′ and my celling is 9′. It has lost some of the lower branches. My questions are: 1.can I clip the top, 2. can I transplant it with a smaller one to help it look full again? Thank you.

Hi Lisa
See http://hortchat.com/info/pruning-norfolk-pine. If you add another plant to the same pot, it will compete for nutrients with the other pine and there may not be enough root room.
Ginger

4/12/2010 at 8:53 am · Reply →

Pebble tray
I keep seeing pebble tray to help with a dry Norfolk Pine. Can someone explain to me how to do this? I am not familiar with this term. Thanks

Hi Ginger
Pebble trays are used to increase the surrounding humidity indoors.
See http://hortchat.com/info/how-to-make-a-pebble-tray.
Joanne

4/5/2010 at 11:29 am · Reply →

Black/brown spots on needles
Our Norfolk pine tree is about 6′ tall, about 14 years old. Its done very well and we enjoy it very much. Lately have noticed the very tips of the needles at the end of each branch of needles (not sure how to explain) are turning white then brown, and there are many black spots on them. There are no scales visible and no animals in the soil. We water about 1ce a week, and the tree is in a sunroom/east windows with many other plants. What might the white/brown/black spots be and how to resolve? Thanks.

Hi Joanne
The black/brown spots on the needles can be caused by a fungus. It may also be a symptoms of broad mite or thrip infestation. Both are tiny and difficult to detect without a magnifying glass. Both cause cupped, distorted tips. ore info…http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/foliage/folnotes/norfolk.htm
Kasei

3/21/2010 at 2:04 am · Reply →

My 35 metre norfolk pine is about 100 years old and has been poisoned and i think it is nearly dead. Is there anyway I can save it.
Please help.

Sincerely,
Kasei

Hi Kasei
Once the dying process begins it too late. Call an arborist and see if there is anything you can do. How was it poisoned?
Patsy Edwards

3/20/2010 at 11:04 am · Reply →

Winter damage
HELP! My Norfolk pine was given to me as a Christmas present about five years ago. My Dad and I “babied” the pine, acclamating is slowly to the sun and Texas heat. After two years, we planted it in the ground, protected from any north winds. It has done wonderful and have had no problems until this winter. The tree is well over ten feet tall with a trunk of about 4″. This winter we had several heavy frost and a couple slight freezes with the temps recovering to well over 40 degrees during the day. But now all the needles are brown. I know it’s from the frost and not due to lack of water ’cause we’ve had plenty water. I don’t know what to do. The trunk has green needles all over it so I feel certain it is not dead. But what do I do about the limbs and top of tree. Do I prune, top the tree or just leave it alone. Please help!
Thank you Patsy

Hi Patsy
The problem with growing trees in a marginally hardy area is that they may grow well for a few years until there is an unusually cold winter. If the top of the tree is dead (turned completely brown) then you will eventually have to cut it off. You will have a misshappen tree but sometimes another branch at the top will take over as the central leader.
Charlotte

2/12/2010 at 5:17 pm · Reply →

Frost damage
I live outside Houston Tx and have a Norfolk Pine that had gotten so large in its pot that I (thinking we had mild winters) planted in the ground. We had some 24 degree nights this winter and now most of the needles are turning brown. Is there any possibility of saving it if I put it back in a pot and bring it indoors? If so, should I wait until it warms up some? Wish I had known we would get this crazy winter. Hindsight is always 20/20.

Hi Charlotte
I’m sorry to tell you that once the needles turn brown, the Norfolk pine will not survive.
Kathleen

2/11/2010 at 9:14 am · Reply →

Pruning Norfolk Pine
We have a beautiful Norfolk Pine about 5 feet tall, but from the pot it’s in up about 2 1/2 feet is just bare. Is there a healtly way to cut the trunk & repot so it is fuller?

Hi Kathleen
Unfortunately there isn’t. See http://hortchat.com/info/pruning-norfolk-pine
kim

2/6/2010 at 11:01 am · Reply →

Transplant shock
I purchased a Norfolk Pine this year, It desperately needed transplanting, which I did to a larger pot. Now it’s drooping, looks sad, what can I do for it? Help I want this beautiful tree to grow.

Hi Kim
Your Norfolk pine is in transplant shock. They don’t like their roots disturbed. Give it some time to recover. Make sure it get enough water-not too much and humidity. Keep it in a cool, bright spot in the house. Don’t fertilize at this time-wait until you see new growth in Spring. It should perk up in a few weeks.
Lennie

2/4/2010 at 10:22 pm · Reply →

Fungus gnats
I live in Colorado and I have a little Norfolk pine about 5 inches tall and I was looking at it tonight and I noticed there was some very tiny brownish bugs crawling around on the soil and the rim on the pot. Do you know what those bugs are and how to get rid of them? The tree seems to be doing great. It’s very green and I water it about once a week and I never let it sit in water and I mist it about every one to two days. Please help me get rid of these stupid bugs.

Hi Lennie
My guess is that you have fungus gnats in the soil. That occurs when the soil is kept too moist. The link will help you get rid of them.
MK Mills

2/1/2010 at 3:30 pm · Reply →

Norfolk pine in AZ
I live in Phoenix, AZ where temps are not often below 45, but can go as high as multiple days over 110 degrees in the summer. It is also very dry. I have two norfolk pines in pots, one is doing ok, the other got too dehydrated month or so ago I think and I recently had to cut off all but some underlying branches and the main stalk. It is still alive, but not sure what else to do to help save it. What is the best thing to do for these plants? Is outside an option? I can keep them watered, but they are never going to get 50% humidity… If I keep them as house plants, I’d like them to share a pot. Thanks, Any advice would be appreciated.

Hi MK
Az’s dry air is a difficult place to grow a Norfolk pine. They like cool, humid air. I don’t think planting them outdoors is a viable option but they can be outdoors in containers during the cool, bright winter (as long as there are no freezing temperatures). Occasionally, give them a nice spray of water. Bring it indoors when temperatures get hot in summer and keep them as houseplants. You can try planting both in a larger pot to accomodate both plants but keep in mind that they will grow and will need more space. If the one plant is questionable, wait and see how it survives, it may not be worth disturbing the healthy plant. If you plan on repotting do so in late winter.
Lois

1/29/2010 at 1:42 pm · Reply →

I got a Norfolk Pine for Christmas in 2002 in a little 4″ pot. Gradually as it grew, I re-potted it.
Then I moved the biggest pot outside. (I live in Tampa). Then I planted it in my backyard, near the property line. My new neighbor put up a fence today, and as a result of digging, cut a line of the tree’s roots and he
also cut some of the lower branches. The tree is about 30 feet tall now. Will my poor “Jody” suffer?

Hi Lois
The tree will suffer anytime you disturb and cut off some of the roots. Fortunately, this is being done when the tree is “dormant”(resting). The best thing you can do for your tree is to fertilize with a root starter it in the spring to stimulate new growth. Make sure that it gets plenty of water during a dry spell and is stress free. Depending on how much damage was incurred, it may take a year or more to recover.
Gerald

1/16/2010 at 9:18 am · Reply →

Have two Norfolk Pines in pots with plans on planting them in my outdoor garden.
Read above memo that stated the roots can grow outward beyond the drip line of the plant.

My question is: are these roots invasive to building foundations?
Thank you.

Hi Gerald
Any tree can become invasive if planted too close to a foundation. Check out this site http://www.archicentre.com.au/survival_kit/cracking_brick.pdf it may be of some help to you.
Melissa F

1/9/2010 at 10:47 am · Reply →

Norfolk pine drying out
I bought a norfolk pine right before christmas. I keep it near a window and it doesn’t get direct sunlight and i haven’t watered it very much. it was doing good, and all the sudden the bottom half of the tree is hard and brittle and needles actually stab you when you touch them. they are still green and looks fine, but fall off if you mess with them. now the top half is doing the same thing. what did i do wrong, can i fix it, and what do i do? thanks!

Hi Melissa
It sounds like it is drying out. One the needles start to dry – its difficult the reverse the process. Give the plant a thorough watering, so that it flows out of the bottom holes of the container. Rewater, again and pour out any excess water. When the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, water again. Added humidity will also help as Norfolk pines like a bright, sunny, cool & humid environment. Also, keep the plant away from cold drafts and heating vents.
Ashley B

1/7/2010 at 7:44 am · Reply →

I received 2 Norfolk Pines recently, one that is fairly small (just over 1 foot) and a little larger one (2 1/2 feet). I’m not a good gardener and really want to keep these. I live in Northest Louisiana – very humid during summer and winters do drop into 20 – 30 F at times. I was told I could plant these outside but after reading about them I don’t think this would be a good idea. What do you think?

Hi Ashley
Norfolk pine may be marginal in your area. They are hardy in zone 10-11 but have been successfully grown in Florida. Check the neighborhood and see if anyone else is growing them, that would be a good indicator that they can survive. If you do plant it outdoors put it in a protected area or a microclimate. Wait until spring to do any planting.
Denise

12/31/2009 at 7:19 pm · Reply →

Norfolk pine poisonous to cats
I recently got a Norfolk Pine and was wondering if they are poisonous to cats? It seems as if the cat has been sick since bringing it home. I did bring home a poinsetta and another plant (not sure what it is) at the same time so I’m trying to narrow it down to see if it could be one of them.

Hi Denise
Norfolk pine and poinsettia can make your cat sick, depending on how much they injest. Munching on the plants is not recommended. http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/ask-the-expert/ask-the-expert-poison-control/norfolk-pine.html
Sid

12/21/2009 at 11:46 pm · Reply →

Norfolk pine care
Hello! I have gotten a 2ft Norfolk Pine for Christmas, and as I adore it I want to know the best tips and tricks for taking good care of it. We live in Wyoming, so it is very dry here. I have a morning sun window I can put it by, and I have read most of the tips here (such as the watering and the signs of issues). So pardon me if my questions are silly 🙂 But, how much water is too much/too little. I am very new to gardening and I wish to give it the best home I can. Best indoor soil? Leave it be for now, and replant into anything better for it? Best heat conditions? Anything really will be greatly appreciated!

Hi Sid
Norfolk pines do not require as much water in winter as in summer. When watering, pour enough water so that it drains out of the bottom of the container, then discard the excess water. When the top 2 inches of soil is dry, water again. It’s better to give the plant a good watering less often than frequent “little” waterings. Spring is the best time to repot, not in winter. Since it is a new plant, you probably will not have to repot for a few years. A well drained houseplant soil works well on Norfolk pine. Keep the plant cool and away from any heating vents during the indoor winter and provide additional humidity. Hope this helps.
Gary

12/3/2009 at 3:34 am · Reply →

I have 16 Norfolk Island pines that have been severely trimmed on one side by the electrical company to avoid hitting on power lines. I believe they will now always look ridiculous is this the case?

Hi Gary
see http://hortchat.com/info/pruning-norfolk-pine. They do not take well to pruning but may still send out some new side growth to fill in. Let us know what happens.
Lynn Watson

11/27/2009 at 10:46 am · Reply →

Is it normal for a Norfolk Island Pine to drip sap from the tips of it’s branches?
Thanks!

Hi Lynn
The plant will drip sap if it has too much moisture. Usually this will happen after you water it and it is getting rid of excess moisture.
Veronica

11/3/2009 at 4:25 am · Reply →

Drying lower branches
I have a Norfolk Pine (approx 6years old),we live near the the coast- Pymouth UK. The pine has been happy in the outside porch and is 6′ high.However, the lower branches have suddenly lost some of their needles the ends are still growing. I am thinking off taking it out of it’s pot and putting it into the garden. Any suggestions,thx.

Hi Veronica
Brown lower branches can be an indicator that the plant is not getting enough water. Perhaps it is pot bound and the roots need more room. Outdoors, Norfolk pines tolerate a minimum temperature of -1C (30F). If it gets colder than that in your area, then you will have to keep it in a container.
Belinda

10/6/2009 at 8:18 am · Reply →

Hi What do I do if my dog chewed the bark on my Norfolk if anything. It’s not all the way around and it is still living. But it’s scarred down to the center, the core isn’t touched though. Thanks.

Hi Belinda
As long as the bark isn’t chewed all the way around the tree, your Norfolk pine should heal itself. I would put some protection (mesh wire) around the tree so that the dog doesn’t chew on it again.
William

9/16/2009 at 10:21 pm · Reply →

Hello…I am a little worried about my 30-40′ Norfolk Pine in my front yard that I planted in the ground about 30 years ago. It seems to be thinning out over time as it grows tall…not as green as I’d like, and every summer it gets the yellowing stems that fall off. The branches seem to have new growth though and at the top of the tree I have alot of these round 4-5″ balls(very heavy) and solid that fall off now and then. Squirrels love to eat them!!
It also leans a bit and I’ve always been afraid of it falling..?? Please advise me on these signs and how to save the tree of my life. We live in Venice, CA 90291
I appreciate all of your notes to everyone and any assistance you can send our way!!

Hi William
The 4-5″ balls are seed pods.
Joy

9/14/2009 at 6:59 pm · Reply →

Hi, FYI My brother in New Orlean has a Norfolk in his back garden. The tree has been there for about 10 years and is 20 to 30 ft. tall and beautiful. It was his daughter’s Christmas tree one year. He has a 6-7 ft high wall around the garden. isn’t NO in zone 8?
This tree even survived Katrina.

Hi Joy
New Orlean is close to zone 9, they are hardy in 10 so its pushing the hardiness but the tree may be in a micro-climate that protects it from extreme cold in the winter. How nice is that! Thanks for letting us know.
thomas hosie

8/19/2009 at 4:45 am · Reply →

I live in south central Pennsylvania. I have three norfolk pines. Two small and one large pine. Yesterday I placed them outside and gave them a good misting-this was long over due since there is very low humidity in my house. My question is-this time of year in Pa the temperature can rise into the low to mid ninties and the humidity is high. Is it ok to place the plants outside during august and september-is there any percautions I must take as to the plants well being

Hi Thomas
Since they are not acclimated to the extreme light change, make sure you place your Norfolk pines in the shade until they get used to the light exposure and heat.
Terri

8/13/2009 at 2:43 pm · Reply →

I have a beautiful Norfolk Pine, about 15 feet tall, it has been outside in a barrel pot doing fine, but it has grown to the size I can not keep it where it is, it’s too close to the house and must be moved. When we went to move it, we discovered that the roots had broken through the bottom of the barrel and through the brick patio. There are about good size roots and several small roots that have grown into the ground. I am heartsick! I love this tree and don’t want to see it die! I don’t think we could dig out all the roots and it would have to be cut to move it. Is there still a chance it would live? What can I do? Thank you!!!!

Hi Terri
It sounds like you have no choice but to move your Norfolk pine. So dig up as many roots as you can and replant it. Going into the fall season will put less stress on the tree and a better chance of survival. Give it a good watering and mulch around the tree staying away from the trunk. A dose of root stimulant can also help promote new root growth.
Pam Sebastian

6/30/2009 at 1:50 pm · Reply →

I have a Norfolk Pine in an 18 inch pot and live in Central New York. He has been very happy in my sunroom but as he’s now about 4.5 ft. tall I moved him to our outside deck 2 weeks ago (morning and afternoon sun which is what he got in the sun room). We had a few very hot days in the 80’s and now it’s been in the 70’s with alot of rain. I only watered every 2 to 3 weeks when he was in the sun room and he was VERY healty! Two days ago I noticed almost all of the branches have brown tips. I don’t want to lose him, please help!!

Hi Pam
Your Norfolk pine is not happy with the change in environment. Eventhough morning sun and aft. sun was the same, there is a big difference in light intensity when the plant is indoors vs outdoors. It needs time to acclimate to higher light intensity. Brown tips occur from dry soil, being outdoors with higher light intensity and heat, the plant will dry out much faster than indoors and requires more water. Try to keep the plant in a protected area and keep the soil moist but not wet. Make sure the plant is not sitting in water during this rainy spell.
joan

6/20/2009 at 3:04 pm · Reply →

Fungus gnats
My tree has been turning brown and I have checked the water and it seems fine – what I did notice now are small wormlike crawling in the soil – I dumped out the soil but don’t know what to do now. will you please help. This was a Christmas gift. thanks

Hi Joan
I suspect that your Norfolk pine soil was kept too wet. The wormlike insects may be larvae from fungus gnats which thrive in moist soil. If the lower leaves are turning brown -not the whole tree, then you can repot it in fresh well drained soil. Keep it in a shaded area until it recovers from transplanting. If you can move it outside, it will enjoy the humid summer outdoors in the shade.
Christa

5/19/2009 at 12:42 pm · Reply →

I have 3 norfolk pines that are about 15 years old. When I moved to CO from CT about 8 years ago these hardy plants all survived the long drive out in the car and about 3 years after I was here I noticed they were starting to turn brown. A local gardener told me to create a “humidity” tray for the plants. Meaning to fill the saucer with small rocks and keep wet. I have done this religiously for years and now two of the plants have gotten SO big I call them my little monsters. 🙂

They got so big in fact that I needed to repot them which I did, however to get one of the plants out of the container I had to cut the roots and am VERY concerned about the effects of this. The repotting was several days ago and all seems to be well but I’m worried that I may have hurt my baby! I actually replanted one of the smaller plants in with the larger and hope this was OK too. I’ve had these plants together for years and they are like a little family so I hope they’ll be OK. Any feedback would be appreciated!
Thank you!

Hi Christa
Pamper you Norfolk pine for a while. Make sure it doesn’t dry out and keep it in semi-shade for a few weeks until it recovers. You can also water it with a root stimulant (optional) to help it regrow new roots faster. When it looks like it’s recovering, you can move it outdoors into a shaded area. It may enjoy the warmth (not too hot)and humidity of summertime.
It was a good idea to replant the smaller one into a separate pot-this way it will not have to compete with the other plant.
Jess

4/27/2009 at 11:55 am · Reply →

Hi, I have a 4 or 5 year old Norfolk Pine that I need to repot, it is still in the original container. It is about 2 1/2 feet tall, how big should the new pot be? The current one is probably only about 11 inches in diameter and 9 inches tall. Thanks for your help!

Hi Jess
The general rule of thumb for repotting plants is 1-2 inches larger-no larger.
Erica

4/22/2009 at 7:46 pm · Reply →

Hello! I bought a Norfolk Pine a couple of months ago, at about 10″. It was very green, lush, and full, though on closer inspection it was not one tree, but nine. Recently, eight of the nine have started curling up and turning a duskier green; the ninth stayed bright and of a normal texture (his name is now Happy). Happy was near the edge of the pot, and the rest were crowded together, so I thought repotting them might help, since it was hard to water them equally. They are now three to a pot; however, the only soil I could repot them with was Miracle-Gro Moisture Control. I read that they might become prone to root rot because of this soil; is it something I need to watch out for? I want all nine (even little Tilly, who is only 4″ tall and is rather bent-backed) to survive and hopefully thrive.

Two last comments: After seperating them, I’d noticed that they had been pruned in order to fit nine to a pot. I don’t understand this in the least; in any case, it’s something to look out for when buying one (I’m happy with my special pines). Also, after repotting, I noticed that some of them have very bent trunks (like little Tilly). Is this a problem?

Thank you for your time!
Dyana

4/17/2009 at 8:24 am · Reply →

About a month ago, it was a sunny day outside, so I put our office Norfolk Pine outside to get some sunshine. I wasn’t even thinking that it was probably in the 30s outside that day. 3 days later the needles on the top part of the branches started to turn a golden brown. I realized then (3 days later), that it was probably too cold outside for the tree, and that I had probably killed it. Some of the “fingers” of the branches have since dried up and fallen off, but about half of the tree is still green. Mostly the golden brown color is on the top of the branches and underneath the branches is still green. There is about 2 inches of new growth starting at the top of the trees (I think there are 4 trees in the pot). Do you think this tree(s) has a chance?

Hi Dyana
It sounds like your Norfolk pines are not completely dead and have some life to it. The sections that have fallen off will not regrow. The question is – do you want to look at/keep a plant that is misshappen and scrawny looking? Perhaps there is one out of the 4 in the pot that is less damaged and can be salvaged.
Carole

3/21/2009 at 7:10 am · Reply →

I have a Norfolk Pine tree that is 6ft tall, it is 30 years old. We have finally moved to our own house and I would like to plant it outside. We live in Louisiana close to Baton Rouge. We do have freezing temps in the winter. Will our tree be okay to plant outside.

HI Carole
Norfolk pine is hardy in zone 10 (30-40F), Baton Rouge is in zone 9. It’s a gamble, but if its in a protected area away from winter winds, it may be ok outside.
Linda

3/20/2009 at 4:04 pm · Reply →

My Norfork pine is about five feet from my home and is about fifty feet tall. Is there a problem with the root system because it is so close to my home?

Hi Linda
The roots on a Norfolk pine can extend 2-3 times than the canopy. So if your tree is 25ft. wide the roots will extend 50 to 75ft. I cannot tell you if there is a problem with the roots. If there are visible signs such as the walkway pushing up then you may have a problem. Tree roots can redirect to find nutrients. If you are concerned about the tree falling or the roots affecting your foundation then you should call an arborist and have them access the situation. Here’s some more info on foundation cracking caused by trees. Sorry, that I can’t be of more help to you. Perhaps someone out there can give us more information

.
Linda Kay

3/17/2009 at 5:11 pm · Reply →

I have a huge Norfolk Pine about five feet from my home. It is starting to curve and my husband is afraid it will fall over. Is that possible? It is very healthy and very full. It is about fifty feet , how much bigger will it get?

Hi Linda
Norfolk pine in nature can get up to 200 ft. tall.
Sister St. Herman

3/13/2009 at 8:46 am · Reply →

I have 4 Norfolk Pine trees used to decorate the Church. I have had them about 2 weeks before Christmas and they were doing fine until this week. They are curling and branches are drooping. I am sad about this. The only thing I can see after reading all the coments you have–is that they might be over-watered. Will they come back if I hold off watering for a time. Thanks. God Bless.

Hi Sister
Curling and drooping brown branches are an indicator that the plants were either kept too dry or need more humidity. Overwatered Norfolk pine will have yellowing needles before they turn brown. Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger into the soil. If the top 2 inches are dry then give the plant a good watering (until it drains from the bottom of the pot) . Once the weather warms up, (if possible) place the Norfolk pines outdoors. They will enjoy a summer vacation outside.
Dyana

2/4/2009 at 8:22 am · Reply →

I rescued a Norfolk Pine from a dumpster about 4 or 5 years ago, and brought it to work. I has resided happily next to a front full length window next to a door for all this time. A few days ago, I noticed that the needles that were once bright green, are now starting to turn a golden brown color. Not the same as the few dry tannish brown needles at the bottom of the tree (those are brittle and need to be cut off). These golden brownish needles are not dried out, but definately a peculiar color. I name the tree Norbert the Norfolk Pine. Are Norbert’s days numbered? I water Norbert once a week, just enough that a little comes through the bottom of the pot. Could it be that my boss put the tree in the garage for 2 days on December 17th? Please advise. Thanks!

HI Dyana
If the garage was too cold, your Norfolk pine could have sustained cold damage which results in needle discoloration. I would wait and see. If the whole tree turns an odd color and needles start to drop then its a gonner.
Dyana

2/3/2009 at 3:19 pm · Reply →

Overwatering
I rescued a Norfolk Pine from a garbage dumpster about 4 or 5 years ago. It has been living happily at work, since then, and always seemed healthy. It is by a window facing south, and I live in New Jersey, so it is snowing outside right now. I water Norbert (we call him Norbert the Norfolk Pine), once a week. Just the past couple of days I have noticed that the branches are turning a golden brown. They always used to be a bright green. I guess Norbert’s days are soon up. Any advice?

Hi Dyana
If the needles are turning yellow then brown and dropping, that is a sign that your are overwatering the plant.
Kelly

1/25/2009 at 5:15 pm · Reply →

Hi
My grandfather recently passed and someone sent my family a potted Norfolk pine…well actually it’s four in the same pot; all of them are different sizes. No one in my family has a “green thumb” so partly due to our lack of knowledge and our luck, the big one (around 3 feet) is turning brown. All the sites I’ve looked at say that after it browns it’ll never be reversed. Also, some of the needles are really dry and sharp. Are these signs of dehydration, lack of nutrition, a need to be repotted, a lack of sunlight, or something else? And do I have to cut the brown sections off or will they miraculously recover?
Thanks
Kelly

Hi Kelly
The brown sections of your Norfolk pine will not recover, you will have to cut them off. The plants may be too crowded in the container and are competing for water and nutrients. Not knowing what this plant has been through, I think it needs more humidity indoors as well as a good watering. Brown needles usually indicate dry soil. Water when the top 1 inch of the soil feels dry and water enough so that it runs from the bottom of the pot. If the needles turn yellow and then brown then you’re overwatering. Keep the plant away from cold drafts and heating vents-a bright cool room is best. Your Norfolk pine may also have some insect issues.
Martha Salmonson

1/5/2009 at 5:17 am · Reply →

My neighbor and I have 80′ side by side Norfolks and a hillside that may be slightly eroding over the years.We can see roots above the surface. In a high wind, are they in danger of falling over?

HI Martha
Anything is possible. If you are concerned, you should have an arborist check out the trees stability, especially if they are in harms way.
jt

12/28/2008 at 12:32 am · Reply →

Yellow needles vs brown needles
I’ve had two Norfolk Pines for over 6 years. One was overwatered plus there were construction people coming in here working on the apartment. After they left, the plant just drooped horribly. I asked the nursery for help and they thought it was probably due to overwatering. Told me to repot it and add perlite to the soil so it would drain well and dry out faster. plus expose some of the top roots a bit to get some oxygen, as they thought I’d re-planted it a bit too deep. I did, plus mist it every day. It seemed to be getting better, however now the lower leaves are turning brown and brittle. The dirt feels wet to me, plus the needles have brown clumps that look sort of like dirt but it isn’t dirt. Is that a pest of some sort? The top, while droopy is healthy looking with new growth and there is some new growth offshooting from a lower skinny trunk. I love this plant and want it to make it. What can I do? Thank you.

Hi Jt
If the needles turn yellow and dropping ,then your plant is being overwatered. Lower branches will turn brown over time from aging and low light. In addition, brown tips and lower brown branches on a Norfolk pine is an indicator of dehydration or low humidity. Improve the moisture around the plant by misting, humidifier, pebble tray or grouping plants together. Trim off the lower brown stems.
The bumps on the needles may be scale infestation. Look closely with a magnifying glass, scrape one with your fingernail, if it comes off then you have scale. One safe way to treat it is with a mixture of 1 part olive oil and 1 part dishsoap to 100 parts of water.
Nam

12/24/2008 at 12:41 am · Reply →

Just wanted to give your readers some info on Lanai City, Hawaii.
This little town in the Pacific has hundreds of mature Norfolk pines that were planted around 1910 so they are getting to be about 100 years old. Here is a link that has a few pictures of some of the trees. http://www.hawaiiweb.com/lanai/html/sites/Lanai_city.html

And a brief history of the person that planted the trees. In a way he was the islands Johnny Apple Seed except he planted pine trees. http://the.honoluluadvertiser.com/article/2007/Jul/08/il/FP707080302.html
They were planted to reduce the winds that cut across the island, collect moisture from the breeze and provide shade to make the town more comfortable, planted on slopes they secured the land from erosian the hills from slipping. Having lived there with the trees I can say they made the town a great place to grow up.

Thanks for the info!
Laura

10/22/2008 at 11:06 am · Reply →

I have a mature (40-50’tall) Norfolk Pine in my backyard in Culver City, CA. I am planning to build a breakfast nook and will have to dig a foot or so deep to pour the concrete walls for the crawl space. How near the trunk can I dig? If I cut a large root, will the tree be compromised?

Hi Laura
Any construction around a tree will cause root damage. Here are some basic facts: 95% of the tree roots are located in the top 3 feet of the soil, which most of the feeder roots in the top 6-10 inches. The roots can extend 2-3 times wider than the canopy. So if your tree is 40′ tall and spreads 30′, the tree roots can extend 60-90′ from the trunk.
lester

10/17/2008 at 12:33 am · Reply →

I’ve had my pot-grown Norfolk Island Pine for 15 years; it has a lovely shape but is now getting too tall (9 ft) to bring indoors for the winter without causing the tip of the tree to bend over (it lives in a shady spot outdoors from May to October). We live in central London (England) where the temperature rarely drops below freezing. Is it worth trying to wrap it in clear plastic and leaving it out in a sheltered spot next to the house over the winter? Or is that doomed to failure? We have a large (10 ft) pot-grown Chilean Araucaria which lives in a barrel outdoors unprotected all winter but I know those are more hardy.

Hi Lester
Minimum temperature for Norfolk pine is 40F (4.44C). It can tolerate temperatures as low as 32F (0C). You can try to wrap it in landscape fabric or burlap and keep it in a protected area away from cold winter winds. Clear plastic is not a good idea as heat & moisture can build up inside during the day and when the night temp drop cold damage will occur. It’s worth a try. Good luck
Linda

9/30/2008 at 6:42 pm · Reply →

White paint (sap)
I have a Norfolk Pine that was given to my fiance 7 years ago, small enough to be potted in a coffee cup. It is now close to six foot tall, in a pot about 15″ diam. We put it on the front porch (facing north) in summer, and water maybe once a week-unless it rains, then it gets set off the porch, but never in a severe storm. I just brought it inside today after spraying for possible bugs. I noticed while doing so that there are white spots that look like old paint in some places, and some of them seem to have breaks in the branch under it. Do you have any idea what this might be? Has my spraying taken care of it? This is the first time I’ve noticed anything wrong with this tree–except the sunburn it got about 4 years ago when it got left on the south side while we were gone one day. Also, one of my granddaughters accidentally broke off the top growing tip on one of the two trunks it has–but the trunk is still growing, although not as quickly as the other..I’ve been told I’ll be homeless if I let this tree die. Please help! I live in Iowa, and know I cannot plant it outside, as much as I’d like to. Thanks..

Hi Linda
It doesn’t sound like an insect. It may be that the “white paint” on your Norfolk pine is sap that oozed out when the branch was damaged. The other possibility is that it is dried bird poop.
stacy creyer

8/7/2008 at 5:09 am · Reply →

Fertilizer
6 YEARS AGO I WAS GIVEN “NORDY” MY NORFOLK PINE. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST FERTILIZER FOR IT. 10-6-6? DOES IT NEED AN ACID BASE FERTILIZER?

Hi Stacy
A balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 with micro nutirents works best. According to Col. State U., it prefers a slightly acid soil (ph 4.5-5.5) . Most sources recommend using a regular balanced houseplant fertilizer. If you check the ph of the soil you may find that the soil may be acidic enough not to require additional acid.
Kim

8/3/2008 at 9:26 am · Reply →

Yellowing needles
I have a small Pine about 3′ tall that was given to me, I keep it indoors. I am noticing some recent yellowing, I have had it 3 weeks and have not watered it yet, the soil still feels wet 1-2 inches from the top. I have misted it though every other day.

Hi Kim
It may be that the soil doesn’t drain well and there is poor root growth. Yellowing needles can indicate overwatering but since you haven’t watered in 3 wks., it sound like the soil isn’t drying out fast enough. Unless you live in a dry area, you don’t need to mist in the summer, there should be enough humidity in the air.
Norfolk pine needs well drained soil and does not tolerate wet soil or standing water. If the soil is the problem, I would suggest repotting into a lighter soil such as 1/3 soil 1/3 peat moss and 1/3 perlite or sand or find a lighter soil mix. Once repotted(if you can) keep the plant in a cool, shaded spot outdoors until the weather get cold. It will enjoy the vacation outdoors.
robyn

7/10/2008 at 7:16 am · Reply →

Separate multi stems
I have a norfolk pine in a pot – it’s about 2ft high. It has one larger stem and about 3 smaller stems. should I cut off the smaller stems or divide them off somehow to have one larger plant or just leave it like a shrub?

Hi Robyn
You can separate the 3 smaller stems from the main one if you like as long as the plant is sending out new growth. Disturbing the roots can set it back. A better time is in the winter/spring before it starts to grow. If you don’t want to disturb the main stem then cut the 3 stems off. I have seen pots with several stems growing together and they make a nice full plant. It’s really is up to you as to what kind of look you want. The multi-stemmed pot will fill in faster and will need a larger container sooner.
kathleen

5/25/2008 at 6:23 pm · Reply →

I have a 23 year old Norfolk Pine which is about 9 1/2 feet tall. It is very healthy and has lots of new growth. I’m moving and may not be able to take it due to its size and the fact that it may not get proper light. (Yes, I am totally attached to it and want to take it) I have three questions.

1) it’s in a pot that is 17″ in diameter and 15″ tall. If I can keep it, does it need to be repotted (I haved read that they do not mind being root restricted.)

2) I have a chance to take it to be planted in my friend’s yard in Houston, about a four hour drive away. Any suggestions on how to transport it and if it would make it in the heat?

3) If I can get it there, would it survive being transplanted in the Texas summer or should we wait? The yard is pretty shady with filtered light coming through other trees all day.

Hi Kathleen
Wow 23 years old that’s a long time to keep a potted Norfolk Pine. It is hardy in zone 10-11 and Houston, Tx is zone 9a so planting it outdoors would be pushing the limit on hardiness. If you want to try, plant it in a protected area (microclimate) away from wind with winter sun. Early spring or fall would be the best time to transplant as summer may be too hot for the tree to acclimate itself.
When transporting try to gently gather the branches upward and tie them loosely, then wrap with burlap or cloth. This will keep the branches from loosing moisture and sustaining less damage in transport. Good luck. If all fails ask your neighbor if they would like to adopt your pine.
Linda

2/12/2008 at 6:02 am · Reply →

Yellow needles
Well, I’m crossing my fingers. I could always just have a “golden Norfolk pine“…is it possible that it would go back to green if it’s NOT frost damage?

Once it starts to turn yellow, it will not revert back. Eventually, the needle will dry out and drop. If it was a case of chlorosis (lack of iron) then a plant can be “greened” up with nutrients. Sorry, can’t give you better news. You can always spray it green (ha, ha)
Linda

2/10/2008 at 7:40 pm · Reply →

FROST DAMAGE
I have (had?) a lovely small Norfolk Pine, about 3.5 ft tall with lush green branches. I was in the process of moving, so put it out on the patio for a couple of nights and I know it got too cold. Now the upper 2/3 of the tree is a brownish-gold color, but the needles do not appear dry. I’m sure this is freeze damage — Washington DC — but I’m wondering if it can be saved. It’s inside now. The bottom 1/3 of plant looks pretty good. Will the upper branches fall off eventually or should they be pruned with the hope of saving the rest and possible regrowth. I hate that this happened as it was such a pretty little tree and I want to save it, if at all possible.

If it was frost damage the needles will eventually drop. It’s a matter of time. Norfolk pine do not take well to pruning and will result in a misshappen tree. Wait and see what the top 2/3 is going to do, if it dries up then I would give up on the tree. It may not be worth the effort. Also see above comment about pruning on 2/26/07
joanne ayres

2/3/2008 at 9:59 pm · Reply →

Transplant outdoors
Hi ‘ I live on the mid eastern coast of australia and have a healthy 20ft. norfolk pine in my front garden right where I want to put a swimming pool . My daughter would like me to dig it up to transplant to her home. I would like to know the best way to successfully do this I have a small excavator and bob cat at my disposal to use for this project. could you please give me some advice as to how deep/ wide I need to dig to move it with minimal damage.
thanks Joanne.

Hi Joanne
The best rule of thumb I have found was to measure the diameter of the tree. For each 1 inch dia. dig a hole 12″ wide (1ft) and 6″ deep. Therefore, if you have a 5 inch diameter dig a hole wide 60″ (5 ft) and 30″ (2 1/2ft) deep. Dig the hole 2x the size of the rootball and amend the soil for good drainage. It’s best to do this when the tree is dormant late winter. Be sure to keep the plant well watered after transplanting.
Ruby Duhamel

1/19/2008 at 2:54 pm · Reply →

Grouping plants
Sadly, my aunt just passed away at Yule and I have been named caretaker of her Norfolk Pine. I have been told that they do not do well when within close proximity to other house plants. I would like to know if this is true and if so, which plants give them grief and how far away is tolerable? Thanks for your help. Ruby Duhamel

My condolenceses on the loss of your Aunt. Houseplants are grouped together because they increase the humidity around them which they need . The only time you need to be careful is when one of the houseplant is infested with insects, then you need to isolate the infested plant from all the others to keep the problem from spreading.
max anderson

12/31/2007 at 4:32 pm · Reply →

I HAVE A GREAT NORFOLK PINE TREE IN MY BACK YARD. IT IS 12 YEARS OLD AND NOW STANDS APPROX 15 MTRS . I LIVE IN THE STATE OF QUEENSLAND IN AUSTRALIA.WE HAVE MANY NORFOLK PINES IN OUR TOWN AND SURROUNDING AREA AND MY QUESTION IS ,WE LIVE IN A CYCLONIC ZONE PLACE AND CAN GET QUIET GUSTY AND WINDY BUT I HAVE NEVER SEEN A TREE BLOWN OVER YET PLENTY OF OTHER SPIECES OF TREES HAVE .IS THERE ANY REASON FO THIS SUCH AS THEIR ROOT SYSTEM .

Norfolk pine has a shallow wide root system that thrives in deep sand. It is wind resistant because its structure. It adjusts its growth to wind velocity, thereby adjusting to the environment. That’s why the older trees can be misshapen or “deformed” when growing in a windy location. They will blow over in a hurricane especially if the roots aren’t deep enough.
Cindy

9/20/2007 at 5:46 am · Reply →

Winterover Norfolk pine
I have a large potted Norfolk pine on an outside porch, I live in Ohio and need to put it in my garage for the winter. Should I burlap it? How much should I water it in the winter? Thanks!

Norfolk pines are tropical evergreens and can tolerate temepratures to 45 degrees. They need bright indirect light and cooler temperatures during the winter. You need to find a space indoors as it will survive not in the garage. Place your plant in a shaded area for a few weeks before bringing it indoors to acclimate it to lower indoor light conditions.
Nancy

7/1/2007 at 1:54 pm · Reply →

Browning stems and spider mites
I have had my Norfolk pine since March, and it was doing well until about a month ago. It is in a window that gets hot afternoon sun (unfortunately there is no other window I can move it to) so I began to water it more frequently when I noticed that the soil was drying more quickly. Now the branches are turning brown and falling off. I have cut back on watering but the browning is continuing. I also notice a greyish film starting to cover some of the branches? Is this evidence of spider mites? What can I do to try to save my tree? Thank you.

Browning edges usually indicate not enough water and lack of humidity, if the plant was yellowing and dropping needles inside then its getting too much water. Check the soil(stick your finger into the soil) and water when the top inch is dry. Your soil may be so dry that the water runs right through it and doesn’t allow the roots to absorb any moisture. If so, allow the plant to sit in the water for 1/2 hour and then drain any excess. A western exposure (hot afternoon sun) is not the ideal spot. If its possible, place it outdoors for the summer in a semi shaded area. If this grayish film or “off color” has some fine silky webbing on it, then you may have spider mites, one of the common pests of Norfolk pines. One treatment a Florida entomologist recommended is to spray the plant with 1% of olive oil and 1% dishdetergent mixed with water.
MELISSA

4/26/2007 at 10:36 pm · Reply →

We live in Melbourne Australia and are suffering from a very long drought can you advise the root structure of a Norfolk Pine. Are they as deep as they are tall or are they more prostrate.
We are having trouble with our home moving due to the lack of rain and our Norfolk Pine tree is 30 years old and at least 15metres tall… We are trying to establish if this tree could also be doing damage to our structure.
Many thanks Melissa

Hi Melissa,
The roots are more prostrate, extending far beyond the drip line of the branches. Roots will often go deeper in search of water. Check out this site http://www.archicentre.com.au/survival_kit/cracking_brick.pdf it may be of some help to you.
Jennifer

4/22/2007 at 4:55 pm · Reply →

Thanks for the tip for “Herman” my big Norfolk pine! I let it dry out, repotted with a 3″ layer of pebble on the bottom first (to prevent root rot from coming back) then used Miracle Grow nutrient rich Indoor-plant potting soil, and fed it with “SUPER Thrive” which was recommended by the nursery. Thank you very much…I think he’ll make it now!

HI Jennifer
Don’t feed Herman too much. the new soil already has some nutrients in it and since the roots are damaged, they are incapable of absorbing nutrients. Give them time to re-grow. Once you see new life in the tree then fertilize.
Jennifer

4/18/2007 at 9:36 am · Reply →

Overwatered pine
I inherited a 10′ Norfolk pine and for two years it was fine. About two months ago it slowed drinking and the branches were turning brown and falling off. This week I moved it and discovered – it smells horrid/incredibly rancid! I am draining out the excess water (sopping it up with new clean towels incerted twice/day along the drain pan for two days now) to help it as fast as I can. What is going wrong? And what do I do, I LOVE this plant – I named him “Herman” as in Munster, due to its size.

I’m afraid the plant was waterlogged and doesn’t have adequate drainage causing root rot (rancid smell). With too much water there is no oxygen in the soil and the roots can’t breathe. Dry out the plant and be sure the water drains freely from the bottom of the container. You may have to either repot or add some fresh soil to improve the drainage problem.
A. HOWARD

1/23/2007 at 11:21 am · Reply →

Curlling and drying branches
I HAVE A NORFOLK PINE AND THE BRANCHES ARE CURLING UNDER AND DRYING UP. THEY ARE NOT BROWN BUT ARE FALLING OFF WHEN DISTURBED. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG? HOW CAN I PREVENT THIS?

You may be keeping your Norfolk pine too dry. Give your plant a good soaking, water it with tepid water or place it (if you can) in the shower and let it absorb some of the moisture thru its needles. To increase humidity around the plant mist with water and place it on a pebble tray. The hot, dry air indoors is difficult for Norfolk to endure

.
S. Bryant

1/5/2007 at 9:20 am · Reply →

Repot NF pine
I have 4 Norfolk Pines that are currently growing in the same pot and I would like to separate them… any ideas on how to do this safely? I didn’t know if just making sure the soil was moist before trying would be enough. These Pines are still all under 3 – 4 feet tall. Any tips would be appreciated, thanks!

The best time to separate your plant is in the spring. To divide and repot your plant ,water earlier in the day to hydrate it. Fill the bottom of your pots with a small amount of dampened (not wet) potting soil mix. Use fresh well drained soil specially formulated for house plants. Carefully knock the plant out of the pot and gently separate the 4 plants noting how much of a root structure each plant has. Each plant should have a healthy root system in order to survive. Quickly place each plant into its pot. Position it at the same soil level it was growing in and fill with more soil up to 1/2 – 1 inch from the rim of the pot. Water thoroughly, allowing the water to drain. When repotting be sure to work quickly to keep the roots from drying out. Place the new plants in a semi shaded area for a week or more to give it time to recuperate from transplanting.
Robert Moore

1/1/2007 at 9:11 am · Reply →

Planting Norfolk pine outdoors
I HAVE A NORFOLK PINE INDOORS AND WOULD LIKE TO TRANSPLANT IT OUTDOORS. I LIVE IN CENTRAL FLORIDA. HOW DO I DO IT?

If you are in zone 10-11 and temperatures don’t get below 40 degrees, then you can plant it outdoors. Central Fla. is in zone 9 with an average min. temperatures of 2-30F. A protected micro-climate near water, in zone 9 may work but a cold snap of below 40 degrees will cause the tree to turn yellow. Before planting, slowly acclimate the plant to the outdoors . Plant it in soil that has good drainage. Dig a hole that is 2x wider than the container and as deep as the height of the root ball-no deeper. The tree should be at soil level or slightly above. Fill with existing soil and tap on soil to firm and remove air pockets. Water thoroughly and mulch to maintain even moisture. Young trees should not be allowed to dry especially in drought conditions. If needed, stake the tree to provide support. For additional info..go to edis.ifas.ufil.edu/

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