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Container Tomatoes

Tips for growing tomato plants in a container

Three problems you should avoid: 1. Too small of a pot 2. overheated soil 3. fluctuating moisture

Choose the largest container available (eg. whiskey barrel) to allow plenty of room for root development. Make sure you use good, well-drained potting soil. The soil mix should retain some water but allow excess water to drain freely (don’t use garden soil). If your container does not have a drainage hole, add coarse gravel to the bottom of the pot. This also helps to weight down the pot so it doesn’t get knocked over on a windy day.
Container plants will dry out faster and will require more frequent watering on hot days. Water mature plants when the top inch of soil is dry and then water until it drains from the bottom.
Some afternoon shade from the hot sun will help keep the soil from getting too hot. Overheated soil will stress the plant causing poor growth of leaves and fruit production. Fluctuating moisture(too much, then to little) can cause problems such as blossom-end rot. To avoid blossom-end rot and cracking maintain even moisture and place a layer of mulch around the plant.

Pasta pot

For optimim success grow special varieties of tomatoes that are designed for container gardening such as a Patio Hybrid, Totem Hybrid (70 days). Both have compact vines that produce medium sized tomatoes. Tomatoes need at least 6-8 hrs of sun. They are heavy feeders and frequent watering will leach the nutrients down the drain hole. Therefore, fertilize regularily (10-14 days) with a 10-10-10. You can also add a time-release fertilizer to the soil as a suppplemental fertilizer.

You can have a varietable garden on your patio since most vegetables that can be grown in containers. Here are some of the easier ones; snap beans, beets, broccoli, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, lettuce, onions, peppers, potatoes,pumpkins, radishes.

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33 comments to Container Tomatoes

  • Kris

    I am considering growing a few tomato plants in an area that gets only partial sunlight. Would it be advisable to supplement light from a grow lamp, when natural light is not available? What about the use of mirrors to reflect sunlight to shaded areas?

    HI
    Tomatoes need 8 hrs of full sun each day, plants will be weak and spindly and may not set fruit with less than 6 hrs . You can try the grow light and mirrors to provide additional light. I would be interested in hearing what kind of results you get. My suggestion is (if you can) plant and tomato in a large pot (16inch or more) find the sunniest spot available and see what happens

    .

  • mrb

    I have a porch tomato plant that has already started to fruit! Is it too early in the season to let this happen? Can you expound about early fruiting on container plants? Also give your best instructions on watering potted tomatoes? Thanks!

    When tomatoes reach a maturity level they start to produce flowers. Yours was probably started early in the season and is now ready to produce fruit. Sometimes they will fruit early as a result of stress and it triggers them to reproduce before they die. You may be the first one in the neighborhood to have home grown tomatoes! Keep your plant evenly moist during the growing season and fertilize once a week to replenish the nutrients that wash away.Time-release fertilizer also helps to feed the plant. In hot,dry spells water deeply.

  • Betty

    a general question i have for you…can Tomato plants be planted with other plants,such as Coleus?Or will the Coleus take all the nutrients from the fruits?

    Tomato plants can be planted with companion plantings. Be sure that they are comparable in light requirements. Coleus is a semi-shade/ shade plant whereas tomato requires at least 6 hrs. of full sun. As long as you supply enough water and nutrients both tomato and companion plants(provided they aren’t too aggressive) should grow without competing with one another.

  • justin

    I have a 33 x 10 m glasshouse and a 30 X 40m shahdehouse I do not know how to use – I do not have time to grow commercially but want to use them – any tips or ideas?

    I would recommend that you grow plants that you enjoy and once you get started you will find all kinds of new interesting things to grow in your greenhouse. Try a pot of leaf lettuce, herbs and your favorite houseplants. Keep in mind there will be a maintainance expense that comes along with the greenhouse such as heating, lights, repairs. Check out a book titled Greenhouse Gardeners’ Companion by Shane Smith, it might be helpful to you.

  • Robin

    tips for growing tomato plants in bucket

    Three problems you should avoid: 1. Too small of a pot 2. overheated soil 3. fluctuating moisture
    Choose the largest bucket available (eg. whiskey barrel) to allow plenty of room for root development. Make sure you use good, well-drained potting soil. Add coarse gravel to the bottom of the pot for good drainage. If the soil gets overheated it will stress the plant causing poor growth of leaves and fruit production. Fluctuating moisture will add blossom-end rot. You will have better luck if you grow special varieties that are designed for container gardening such as a Patio Hybrid, Totem Hybrid (70 days). Both have compact vines that produce medium sized tomatoes. They need at least 8 hrs of sun. Tomatoes are heavy feeders, be sure to fertilize regularily (10-14 days) with a 10-10-10. You can also add a timed-release fertilizer to the soil. Hope this helps.
    Kris

  • Virgil Lockhart

    I just planted in seperate 4 gal pots, a San Diego Hybrid and a Better Boy using potting soil and 5-10-10- fertilizer. My question is how often do I water and fertilize them. I was told that chicken fertilizer made into a tea mix was good for tomatoes. Also can I use miracle grow?

    Water thoroughly when the soil feels dry and let it drain out the bottom. Maintain even soil moisture but don’t keep it too wet. In the garden tomatoes need about 1 inch of water per week. Watering will depend on the weather. On hot, dry days you may need to water twice a day. Tomatoes are heavy feeders and growing in a container will need ample fertilizer to produce fruit since a good amount of nutrients drain out of the bottom of the pot. Feed them with a higher phosphorous ( middle number) 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 formula at every other watering. Chicken fertilizer tea is high in nutrients but can be “hot” and burn the roots unless brewed well before using. For optimal production, make sure that your tomatoes plants get 6-8 hrs. of sun. Hope you get lots of tomatoes, enough to share with your friends!

  • Bonnie Walling

    My healthy looking container tomato plant has beautiful flowers, but they are drying up before setting any fruit. I had great success last year with this same container in the same location. Help—

    The fruit will not set in excessive heat,if temperatures are above 90.

  • Keith

    I have planted tomatoes in large pots - one of the pots has tomatoes that has the leaves starting to curl – we water regularly and have fertilized twice – there are three plants per pot ( 10 gal pots ) – can you help me

    If your leaves are curling inward they are probably responding in self-defense to conserve water. Less exposed leaf surface will transpire less moisture. As the summer progresses and temperatures are hotter, plants will use more moisture especially when you have 3 plants in a pot that have matured and compete for water. Leaf Roll can indicate environmental factors such as uneven watering , prolonged wet soil, drought, high temperatures. Symptoms occur when the plant has a heavy fruit load. Be sure to water enough so that it drain out from the bottom of the container. In hot weather you may have to water twice a day. Tobacco mosaic virus (TMV) can also promote leaf roll. In addition, frequent watering leaches nutrients from the soil, therefore fertilize more often (at least every 2 weeks). Once you remedy the environmental problem, (barring viral disease) the leaves should uncurl. If the leaves are curling down- look for aphid on the underside of the leaves.

  • Dorothy Latimer

    I use 5 gallon containers with potting soil mixed with osmocote. Water with l/2 gal every morning. Now the bottom leaves are turning yellow. What should I do?

    Hi Dorothy
    Sounds like they may need more nitrogen (lower yellow leaves) . Many nutrients are washed out when the water drains from the bottom of the container. I suggest you add an all purpose soluble fertilizer(10-10-10 or 15-30-15) mixed in with the next watering and every 10-14 days. Follow label instructions for dosage.

  • broomcarol

    I have heirloom tomato plants in large containers using new potting soil. I water evenly and regularly. They get at least 8 hours of sun. I have some blossom end rot, not every tomato on every variety has it. I am using Tomato Maker 4-2-6 by Organic Laboratories Inc. which has 6% calcium. Also use Neptune Harvest Inc. fish and seaweed fertilizer 3-2-1. Both products used as directed and not applied at same time. How do I avoid getting blossom end rot? Thanks for your response. broomcarol

    HI Carol
    Blossom-end rot can be caused by several factors. Overwatering (heavy rainfall), underwatering(extensive dry spell),root damage, excess of soluble salts that reduce the uptake of calcuim. When calcuim is not easily translocated from old tissue to new tissue (when the tomato is forming) then blossom-end rot develops. Lack of calcium during fruit formation causes blossom-end rot. Some varieties are more susceptible to it then others. Uniform moisture is important especially when the fruit is forming. Adding lime to the soil (if needed as indicated by a soil test ) or spraying the foliage with a calcium nitrate solution once a week when fruit is grape size can help reduce the incidence of blossom-end rot.

    http://ipm.uiuc.edu/diseases/series900/rpd906/index.html

  • Mike

    Hi, is there a fixed number on the yield of tomatoes grown in containers throughout the growing season, or does it all depend on when it’s planted, the size of the container, etc?

    Hi Mike
    I don’t know of any fixed number of yield. It depends on how large the plant gets, growing and blooming conditions. It’s hard to predict what Mother Nature will do. One year you can have 5 tomatoes on a plant and the next twice as much. The variable that you can control is container size and fertilization.

  • Sara

    I have been trying to grow a tomato plant for around 1 1/2 months now. i keep up with watering, keep it in the sun and give it fertilizer but all of the leaves are droopy and the edges are dry and brown, everytime a tomato grows the bottom turns brown and dies. i have no idea what is happening to it. it is too high for animals to get at, and i even moved it out of the direct sun at times. what is wrong with my plant and why cant i keep it healthy?

    Hi Sara
    It sounds like a watering problem. Blossom end-rot which causes the bottom of the fruit to turn brown is caused by fluctuating moisture in the soil-either too much or not enough water. Water your tomato plant until it runs out of the bottom of the container. On hot days, in full sun, you may have to water once or even twice a day. Its best to water in the morning. If you have lots of rain(which you can’t control) don’t water until the top inch of soil dries out. Feed your plant once a week (follow label directions for dosage) and add some mulch to the container to retain even moisture. I hope this helps.

  • Daniel N

    I need some advice on my tomato plants.
    The leaves seem to be dieing off and the fruit has a brownish colour at the bottom and they seem to be spitting.
    The tomatoes have not yet ripened, but are near.
    Any advice on what and how to treat the problem would be most appreciated.
    Daniel

    Hi,
    It sounds as if you may have a watering problem. I know that sounds simplistic but in the aggregate both splitting (growth cracks) and brownish area at the bottom of the fruit (blossom end rot) are caused by uneven moisture. Mulch your plants, which will help maintain even moisture. In the garden, tomatoes need at least 1 inch of water per week. If growing in a container, water deeply until it drains from the bottom. Water again when the top1-2 inches of soil feels dry. If you allow the plant get too dry and then water, it causes an imbalance of nutrient uptake (calcium) resulting in brownish black spot at the point at the blossom end of the fruit. Over watering after being too dry (ueven moisture) will also cause the fruit to crack. If you correct the problem, the subsequent tomatoes should come out fine. You can still eat the cracked fruit provided you pick it before it starts to rot.
    Good luck and happy gardening.!. :-)
    Kris

  • Lena

    I am growing two Red Robin heirloom dwarf plants and recently transferred them into separate pots. Before I transferred them they were bothe doing fine. I noticed this week that some of the lower leaves have started to curl a little with some yellow and brown on the edges. Is this normal or could I have damaged the roots when I moved them. Neither had started flowering yet. I got a late start on planting them. I’m in southern GA and I know that the weather has been dry/humid and hot but I water them everyday. Any suggestions as to why the leaves started turning?

    HI Lena
    There are many reason why leaves turn yellow. Lower yellow leaves can indicate lack of nitrogen. Since you transplanted them in fresh soil, that would not be the case. The plant is most likely responding to stress from having their roots disturbed and hot weather. You might want to move them to “less sun” for a few days until they recuperate. Be sure to fertilize every two weeks when grown in the container as nutrients are easily washed out with watering.

  • aura

    Sometimes the new growth on top of the tomato plant seems to be drying and taking a brownish color and then either its growth slows down or it dies. Another problem is, one day the plant is vigorously growing and then it suddenly wilts. Watering is consistent in both cases.

    Hi Aura
    Is this plant in a container or growing in the ground?

  • aura

    Answer: Growing in Containers.

  • Planting short season varieties tomatoes in containers is a great idea to get you the very first available tomato of the season! Container gardening is an excellent choice for gardeners who live in an apartment or house without a yard. Get a few plants established and give them reasonable care, and soon you’ll have – great results! Most important is to choose large enough containers or pots (larger is better) and to water properly.

  • hlm

    i have two tomatoes growing in containers. one is an heirloom variety, the other was a from a church sale, so i don’t know. the “church one” is very tall. both have done very well, but over a week that i was away (a friend watered) the leaves have turned yellow and spotty on the church one, and i see some yellowing and spotting on the heirloom. it seems to be working it’s way up the plant. the church one is already half way up. i can’t tell if the spots on the leaves are an external powedery substance, or discoloring on the leaves.
    I did introduce worms into the pots two weeks ago, accroding to a friend’s advice to help airate the soil, which seems to have become very compacted. What do you recommend? Are they too far along to repot?

    HI
    I don’t think the worms are harming your tomato plants. Tomatoes do get a leaf spot – Early blight or Septoria leaf spot. Both are caused by a fungus that is present in the soil and develop in warm, rainy and humid weather. Leaf spot starts from the bottom and works its way up the plant. To keep it from spreading, remove any infected leaves avoid splashing soil on the plants and spray with an approved fungicide to control the disease.

  • jt

    Watering is essential. You have to be careful watering moist roots because the leafs are curling in hot weather. I have unpotted many plants with dead dry tops but soggy roots.

    I mist my plants during the hottest part of the day (over 100) and hose down the outside of the pots to cool the roots but follow the at least 1 inch dry on top soil rule before watering roots. As long as the nighttime temps are below 80 degrees the plants will be OK. Watering too much in pots creates surface roots which do not perform well. Lots of leafs and little fruit. Planting down in the pots and adding soil as the plant progresses over several weeks seems to provide a deeper root system which is essential in a potted tomato plant. Like anything in life diversify types and locations to insure at least some crop for your tomato sauce. IMO.

    Thanks for the comment!

  • Erin

    Hi, I have better boy plants. One each in 12 inch pots. They are tall, producing yellow flowers, no fruit. They appear healty, but bottom leaves are turning yellow. I see after reading that I need to fertilize them more. My question is, do I need to transfer them to larger pots or are they okay in this size as they appear to be healthy. Also, I may put small rocks on top of soil to keep them from drying out in the heat here in NC. Thanks for any info you can give!

    Hi Erin
    Do not repot the tomato. You will do more harm than good. Give it fertilizer that has a higher middle # so that it will produce more fruit. Wood chips would work better to place on top of the soil. Rocks can absorb heat and keep the roots even warmer.

  • Erin

    OK, thanks for info. (I don’t think my last post went thru)

  • Esther Fernandez

    my tomato plant is a upside, it has a lot of tomatoes
    The plant seem to be drying and taking brownish color
    What do you recommend?
    because in an a close container I cant not see if the soil is dry or wet

    Hi Esther
    Tomatoes do need a lot of water, especially in hot sunny weather.When you water make sure the soil is thoroughly soaked and then let it dry out. It’s hard to tell what the problem is, tomatoes also get a lot of diseases that have the same symptoms. Are you fertilizing the plant?

  • Chelle

    Hot tomatoes
    I bought a green house this spring and have it all up and going and everything I have planted so far has been wonderful at sprouting and growing strong. I have both a garden bed in my yard and have also been doing a lot of container gardening. This year I decided to try 18 gallon totes as my pots. They were 3.00 at home depot and for that kind of price and them being so much roomier than pots I figured it would be a good move. So far so good and I do not have too much a problem with the soil getting too hot. In 3 of these totes I have tomato plants that look great, I do of course have the battle of making sure to keep them hydrated. I live in Louisiana and we already have 90 degree day time temps. My main question is, should I go ahead and move my tomato plants out of the green house, or would they be just fine in there? It is SIGNIFICANTLY hotter in the green house, I would say on average between 100-110 on average according to my thermometer.
    I also have potatoes, onion, garlic, corn, carrots, and bell peppers growing in the green house in totes. I also have another round of seedlings going for the tomatoes which just started sprouting.
    I know I need to move out and so on with the plants, otherwise I would have no room in my green house it is only 6′X 8′. I am sure these totes will be super heavy considering each tote takes 80lbs of top soil and compos mixture.
    Sorry so long.

    Hi Chelle
    Move your tomato plant out of the greenhouse otherwise they will start to decline from heat stress.The plants will start to turn purple and leaves develop dry margins. Temperatures of 100-110 is too hot for any plant. You need to find a way to cool the greenhouse.

    • Chelle

      Thank you very much for your advice. I will do so tomorrow. I have began opening the door during the day time hours due to the heat in there. I personally do not enjoy being in those hot of temperatures. A person quickly become dizzy in there. Louisiana is one hot sauna, I have 2 windows and a door in my green house, when I open the door it does become much cooler. I have been watering the tomato plants twice a day due to the heat and making sure that the soil is not soppy, but just moist. I am new to container gardening, but have really grown to enjoy it. I also believe I may have started a neighborhood trend with the storage tote gardening.

  • Karen Karr

    Basil insect repellent
    I have a friend who swears by the organic practice of planting basil at the bottom of her tomato plants to keep the ugly green tomato worms from attacking. She claims that she hasn’t had a problem with them since she starting pairing the two plants. Does this work?

    Hi Karen
    I don’t know if basil will deter tomato hornworms, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it does. Basil is used as a companion plant to enhance the flavor of tomatoes. Studies have shown that basil has the ability to certain repel insects such as flies and mosquitoes, so there is some credance to what your friend says.

  • Alexia

    I just began planting my tomato plants and would like to know if “planting” them 2/3 in the pots makes for a stronger plant later in the summer? And what can I use for mulch for container plants? Thank you.

    Hi Alexia
    I’m not sure what you’re asking. Planting a tomato plant deeper in the soil or container will help counter any leggy. weak stems that the plant may have developed. Roots will form along the buried part of the stem. In the hot days of summer, place a few inches of an organic mulch such as compost, straw, fine wood chips to keep the plants evenly moist and cool .

  • katherine

    i have a cherry tomato plant in a pot on my patio, it has borne fruit but not a massive amount,so far anyway,like they usually do when i plant in the ground. i have put organic fert, green sand, and organic potting mix and epsom salt. the pot is large but not massive. could it be too small, and if so, could i transplant it at this point? thanks.

    Hi Katherine
    Give the plant some time and it will fill in with roots. I would not transplant it at this time, as it will really stress the whole plant. Make sure that excess water can drain from the bottom of the pot. Container grown plants require a bit more fertilizer because the nutrients will leach out when watering, so make you continue to feed the plant with a balanced fertilizer during the growing season.

  • Yassir Sanchez

    Every website that I go to says you must have big containers; half whiskey barrels, 15-20 gallon, etc…

    This is a myth. I grow tomatoes until I am sick of looking at them every season using 3-5 gallon containers.

    Granted you have to give them plenty of TLC. Top notch compost is what I like best, good make that GREAT cages, plenty of good mulch, and a consistent fertilization and watering plan.

    Everything is important but if I had to stress one thing it is a good cage. The typical three ring types you see at the landscape supply houses are not effective. I make my own out of rolled wire.

  • I found this site via Bing and just wanted to take some time to say thanks for writing about these great growing tips. I will be sure email this site to my friends. Thanks again!

    Thanks,

  • Heidi Hopkins

    Thanks for all the posts and replies! My first tomato garden in containers just might survive the summer our hot patio thanks to you! Fertilizer, compost, mulch and basil here I come! :)

  • Mary

    No flowers
    My young tomato plants have lost their flowers. Do I have a problem?

    Hi Mary
    No, Tomatoes are sensitive to weather conditions especially when the flowers need to be pollinated. If its too hot, too cold or the air is just too calm for pollen distribution, it can cause the flower to abort. If too calm you can try to hand pollinate the flowers in the morning by tapping on the flower cluster to distribute the pollen to the pistil. During the dry season be sure it gets 1 inch of water per week and when fruit is set, side dress with a balanced fertilizer.

  • Blossom end rot
    I am growing container tomatoes. There are plenty of tomatoes on the vine but when they start to turn, the bottoms are turning brown. What do you think is causing this. Can you still eat the tomatoe and can this problem be fixed?

    Hi Kelly
    It sounds like your tomatoes have blossom-end rot which start as wateter-soaked spots on the bottom end of the tomato. It is usually caused by fluctuating moisture from overwatering (heavy rainfall) and underwatering(extensive dry spell). In addition, root damage and excess of soluble salts can also contribute to the problem.
    Blosson-end rot develops when calcuim is not easily translocated from old tissue to new tissue due to uneven moisture supply to the plant. The lack of calcium during fruit formation causes blossom-end rot. Some varieties are more susceptible to it than others. Provide uniform moisture throughout the season and mulch around the plant. If you have a major problem, you can apply calcium chloride(de-icing salt) by way of a spray on the leaves. Mix 1 tbsp. to 1 gallon of water and spray 2-3 x a week.

  • Donna

    Hi,I have my plants in hanging bags. They started off doing great, but I am noticing some yellowing leaves and less flowers are coming. I don’t know how to fertilize the bags. They have a water reservoir on the top, that would be the easiest, but I don’t know what kind and the numbers for the fertilizer to use. Also, I’ve read to remove some of the non producing leaves, but I don’t know how to judge which ones will not produce flowers.
    I’m new to all of this, so any advice is welcome.

    Hi Donna
    Feed your tomato plants with either a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer or a fertilizer specially formulated for tomatoes (higher middle number). I would leave the leaves as they help shade the tomatoes when they are ripening.

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