Plant & Gardening Tips

38 Responses

1. 

   Vicki Terry

   10/28/2008 at 2:51 am ·

   The leaves on my spotted laurel are turning black from the stem and falling off, the whole plant seems to be affected, whats wrong please.

   HI Vicki
   Are you growing your Acuba (spotted leaf laurel) as a houseplant? Leaf drop may be from overwatering and cold temperatures.

2. 

   Lesley Focht

   9/16/2008 at 1:55 pm ·

   I live in Southeastern Pennsylvania. My yard is primarily sunny yet I have 2 problems. I have green moss growing everywhere, especially in my garden, And, now I have mushrooms in my lawn, and those puffy white mushrooms growing at the edges of my garden. Any help would be appreciated.

   Hi Lesley
   Moss grows well in shaded area and it doesn’t sound like that’s what you have. The other factors for moss in the garden or grass is acidic soil, compacted soil, low soil fertility or poor drainage. Test the soil and if needed add lime to sweeten it. Loosen the soil by adding organic compost and fertilizer. In the case of moss in grass, core aerate which should help with drainage.
   Mushrooms feed on decomposing organic material and are prevalent in high humid and excess moisture areas. They usually disappear when the weather dries up. You can remove the mushrooms to keep the spores from spreading or mow them. Some can be poisonous so wear gloves. The white puffy mushrooms that can grow as big as a basketball are called Puffballs. I’m not sure that’s what you’re referring to.

3. 

   Kirby

   9/16/2008 at 10:16 am ·

   I live in New York (zone 5) and have grown canna lillies and glads this year. I need to lift these and store them this winter, but my house and basement is heated (well over 50 degrees). Any suggestions?

   Hi Kirby
   Storing your canna and glads in a garage would work. Put them in a styrofoam cooler to protect them from extreme cold. Another option is to store them in the refrigerator as most maintain a temperature of 39-40F.

4. 

   Janet

   8/29/2008 at 7:37 am ·

   I recently acquired two citronella plants from a co-worker. Several leaves have turned brown and fallen off, a mushroom grew out of the top of one plant and tubular mushrooms have grown out of holes in the container of the other plant. Also the stems are long thin bark and not short green stems seen in photos of similar plants. What’s causing these issues and what can I do to remedy them? Thanks.

   Hi Janet
   What you may have is a mushroom known as Leucocoprinus birnbaumii (Lepotia lutea)- a common houseplant mushrooms. It can be present in the soil or organic matter that is decomposing. Mushrooms like moist conditions to thrive. It will not harm the plant, in fact when it breaks down(dies) it will provide nutrients to the plant. They are known not to be poisonous to humans or animals but I would not eat them. Enjoy the novelty or remove them when they come up. For more info.http://botit.botany.wisc.edu/toms_fungi/mulch.html

5. 

   Kanchan

   8/8/2008 at 12:57 pm ·

   My front yard has snails, lots of small snails. When I set the grass I can see the small snails, they look still and dead to me but I am sure they are living. I have armadillo attacks in my front yard and I treated my lawn for the grub. However, I still see mr. dillo visiting my lawn, probably due to snails. How can I get rid of snails?

   Hi Kanchan
   There are several different ways to treat for slugs or snails such as diatomacious earth.

6. 

   Kanchan

   8/4/2008 at 1:57 pm ·

   My yard is attached by armadillo, it digs every where. What can I do to get rid of dillo?

   Hi Kanchan
   There are no effective repellants. Trapping them is the best way. Use over ripe or rotten fruit as bait. Here’s some info on dealing with Armadillos. http://www.plantanswers.com/breakout/qa3231.html

7. 

   Kanchan

   8/4/2008 at 1:49 pm ·

   I planted 4 crape myrtle this summer in TX. 2 of them are doing well, we have leaves that have yellow tips and aren’t flowering well. Additonally, how can I make my crape myrtle grow taller rather than bushier?

   Hi
   Your crape myrtle is still adjusting to the new environment. Make sure they get enough water during the hot spell. To make your tree grow taller rather than bushier, you will have to choose the best main branches and cut the other weaker stems.. The tree will then focus all its energy into the remaining branches. Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring.

8. 

   Linda

   7/30/2008 at 6:01 pm ·

   I have a Mum that came up this spring. I was wondering when to trim it back. I’ts July 30. Is it to late. I’m from Central WI.

   Hi Linda
   Hardy mums should be pinched back when they are 6-8 inches tall (June) and again when they grow 6 more inches or before July 15. This will help produce compact, bushy plants with many flower buds. Just roll out the growing tip from the shoot when pinching. Early cultivars form flower buds after June 15 and later cultivars after July 15. Look at the growing tips, if there are tiny buds inside, then flowers are starting to form and its too late to trim back.

9. 

   Margie Dee

   7/14/2008 at 10:41 am ·

   I planted 6 Centennial Crape myrtles in the TX heat. Five look great; one looks droopy, and the blooming tops curled up and turned black. I heard to stop watering it except every 4 days but that’s advice from Tennessee which doesn’t get as hot. We’ve had 98-100 degree temps for weeks with no rain in sight. I guess the plant is in shock but what can I do? I’m afraid not to water it. I need a quick fix, please! Thanks

   Hi Margie
   Summer is not the best time to transplant a crape myrtle. You cannot water the tree on a planned schedule. If it is hot and dry and your soil drains well (no standing water) then you will need to water more often. The tree leaves will loose more water on a hot sunny day and the damaged roots cannot translocate it back to the leaves fast enough. So you get droopy, curled up “burned” leaves. What the tree needs right now is the least stressful conditions and keeping it thirsty won’t help. You might water it with a transplant solution (root starter) to help produce more roots. Mulch around the perimeter of the tree to maintain even moisture. Water deeply and less often and if you can provide some shade to the tree.

10. 

    Geoff

    7/11/2008 at 11:10 am ·

    Hello i am not sure if this email is going to the US or the UKso here goes i have just planted a Laurel hedge and noticed that a few were leaves were turning yellow and falling i took one plant up and noticed a lot of water at base of roots the grund is a lot of clay what i know about gardening i could write on the back of a postage stamp am i wasting my time plnting these Laurels HELP

    Standing water means that the soil is not draining properly which eventually will lead to root rot of the laurel hedge (Prunus laurocerasus) or English laurel. They prefer moist, well-drained soil with organic material added. Clay soil will hold water and not drain well. You need to amend the soil by adding organic material such as compost .

11. 

    Gina

    7/5/2008 at 9:13 am ·

    We transplanted a 3 yr old crape myrtle in full bloom yesterday in the heat of the day. It proceeded to wilt and looks dry and dead today. We have watered and watered since then. What else can we do to have it live?

    Early fall or when the tree was dormant would have been a better time for transplanting. The tree is in shock, therefore, provide some shade if possible and the next time you water add a transplant solution which will help establish new root growth. You can also trim it back by 1/3 so that the roots will have less leaves to feed.

12. 

    Kim Chandler

    7/4/2008 at 7:19 am ·

    Hi Kris. I bought a beautiful Susie Orange with Eye in a hanging basket. It was full and green and loaded with blooms when I brought it home. Now it is looking sparse and the leaves are turning yellow and reddish. I’ve watered daily, it’s hanging in full sun, why isn’t it flourishing? Thanks!

    Hi Kim
    It may be getting too much sun & heat. Keep it slightly shaded in the hot afternoon sun. Be sure not to let it dry out and water it regularity, especially in hot weather. Because watering can leach out many nutrients out of the soil, feed it every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer or fish emulsion.

13. 

    lawrence johnson

    6/29/2008 at 8:16 am ·

    Have a pecan tree that has been getting the bark gnawed off by something. I haven’t seen what it is. Am guessing squirrel? Anyway, whatever it is, it eats alot off one area before moving to the next. Although I haven’t lost any branches to this, I suspect it makes the tree vulnerable to disease and insects. Any idea as to what it could be? How to solve the problem. The tree is in my front yard and I have never seen anything up there munching away. Can send picture if necessary.

    Hi Larry
    Something likes your tree. Here’s a link that has some suggestions aboput dealilng with squirrels and insects. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/martin/twigs/pecantree.php. Hope it helps.

14. 

    Kris in Santa Clara, Ca

    6/25/2008 at 4:53 pm ·

    I have a crape myrtle that we planted last year. Starting this spring it has had tiny white crystaline things growing on many of the new leaf tips. It doesn’t really look like eggs but that’s the size. You can (and I have) pull them all off easily but they just grow back. Some of the leaves have started to curl a bit and deform so I’m concerned that it’s damaging the tree. I have tried the garden centers and no one seems to recognize it. Do you have any idea what this is? Websites just list the few things that crape myrtles regularly get. This isn’t any of those. Thanks.

    HI Kris
    The only thing I can think of is aphids. The curling and deforming leaves are a sign of aphid damage and the “crystaline things” may be an accumulation of honeydew (clear sticky substance) droppings from the aphids. Another insect possibility is a type of scale which also attack Crape myrtles. If you have an extension office nearby take a specimen there and see if they can identify the problem.

15. 

    Tom, Garden City, NY

    6/4/2008 at 10:42 am ·

    I’m looking for some information regarding transplanted Aucuba. 4 were transplanted about 5 weeks ago and are now showing signs of leaf yellowing and fall off on some of the older growth of the aububa. Since planting there has been new growth that seems ok. The replanting spot gets a bit more sun. I’m not sure if I am watering enough or too little. I would appreciate any advice in this regard. Thanks, Tom, Garden City, NY

    Since the plants have been transplanted, they are shedding some of their older leaves while adjusting their root systems. The new growth is a good sign that they are acclimating. They do like the shade, so you need to look out for foliar problem such as blotches or sunscald if it is over exposed. A light dose of a balanced fertilizer will get them going for the season. Fertilize lightly over the root zone, away from the stem and crown of the plant. Don’t fertilize in late summer/fall. It needs well drained soil; wet soil can lead to root rot.

16. 

    Juliette

    6/4/2008 at 5:37 am ·

    I have two questions. Do Asian Lilies rebloom in the same year? I Live in zone 6/7. Also, I have an area that is all shade that I want to grow some kind of flowering vine on a fence. Any suggestions? Thanks a million for your help.
    Juliette

    Hi
    Unfortunately, Asian lilies do not rebloom in the same year. Once they are done that’s it for the season. To my dismay, I have deer that when I’m not looking like to eat the flower buds just before bloom and all I’ll get to enjoy is the growing foliage for next year.
    There are not too many flowering vines that grow well in full shade. Here are a few that might fit the bill. Keep in mind these grow in both sun and shade and will preform better with more sun than shade.

    Akebia quinata – Fiveleaf Akebia, – blooms in May purple flowers with interesting fruit in the shape of a sausage. Akebia quinata “Alba” white flowers zone 4-8
    Aristolochia durior – Dutchman’s pipe , blooms in June on old wood flowers look like Mershaum pipes. Aristolochia macrophylla zone 4-8
    Bignonia capreolata – Crossvine, Quartervine red/orange flowers in spring, Bignonia “Jekyll” orange/yellow flowers,”Tangerine Beauty” red/orange flowers zone 5-9
    You can also consider Climbing hydrangea

17. 

    kathleen

    5/24/2008 at 1:06 pm ·

    Can you help me with my very sick butterfly bush? The plant was attacked by yellow aphids. I read somewhere that they can be washed off or sprayed with water with some dish soap. The bush is in a pot on my sunny balcony. There’s no garden hose, so I sprayed it gently with slightly soapy water. A lot of the infested leaves shriveled, so I pruned them off. Since then, it’s been raining a lot and some leaves have turned yellow. Other leaves have a lot of brown spots. Now, there are also ants and fungus gnats. I’m a beginning gardener, so getting rid of all of this is well out of my knowledge range. I’d like to save this plant. Are there some natural, environmentally sound remedies that I can use? Great site and thanks for your advice! – Kathleen

    Hi Kathleen
    I’m assuming that the plant is outdoors in the ground. Try insecticidal soap for the aphids. The ants are attracted to the honeydew the aphids exude. The yellowing leaves and fungus gnats are due to too much water that is depriving the roots of oxygen. When conditions improve (weather) give your plant a dose of a balanced fertilizer to replenish the nutrients it needs to green up again.

18. 

    hicotton

    5/17/2008 at 6:14 pm ·

    Hello,

    So glad to find this site. I live in the mountains of Panama. 4,000 ft. elevation. Springlike all year with daytime temps mostly in the ’70s, occasionally ’80s. Nights are in the ’60s. Lots of rain varying from light mists to tropical downpours. 2-3 months are dry and we water then. We have very high winds in Jan-Feb. This is coffee-growing country.

    I’m looking for a vine to grow out of a large pot in the shade against the house. Bougainvillea grew in it but it was too shady for it to produce flowers at the top under the overhanging roof. We have beautiful hydrangeas that bloom all year; I’m wondering if a climbing hydrangea would be successful here? I see on the Zone charts that it is recommended through Zone 8 and we are of course tropical.
    Also curious whether Crape Myrtle and Live Oaks would do well here?
    Many thanks,
    Jane

    Hi Jane
    Your climates may be too warm for Climbing hydrangea (zone 4-8). You may want to try some of the Jasmines such as Trachelospermum asiaticum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, all are zone 10 and tolerate partial shade. Also butterfly gardenia (Tabernaemontana divaricata), and Blue Sky flower (Thunbergia) are listed for zone 10 and partial sun. You may have to pick what is available in your area. Crape myrtle is listed as growing in zone 7-10 and live oak (Quercus virginiana) is zone 7-9.

19. 

    crystal wooten

    5/6/2008 at 3:12 pm ·

    i have gerbera daisies and I read where they should be planted in full sun but everyday when I get home from work the blooms are down like they have had too much sun I try to water them so the blooms will stand back up am I doing something wrong

    Hi Crystal
    Gerbera daisy do like full sun but when the plant is stressed it will wilt. If the plant is newly planted, it needs time for the roots to catch up to the leaves from transplant shock. A bit of shade for newly planted gerbera will reduce the amount of sun stress. Provide an unbrella on a sunny day for a few days. They should perk up, if not then you will have to revisit your watering technique. Over watering is the quickest way to kill a plant, water in the AM so the plant has time to dry out by night time. If the soil is moist and the plants are wilted that indicates a root problem (root or crown rot).

20. 

    Christy

    4/12/2008 at 5:03 pm ·

    I reside a 2 miles from the beach in Oxnard, CA (Ventura County)& July of 06 I purchased a 24″ box multi-trunk Tuscarora crepe myrtle and had my gardner plant it in my front yard-a small square plot-no grass, just mulched with bark. I had him bury 2 perforated pvc pipes parallel wtihe tree for deep, infrequent watering. It was in bloom when purchased and continued to do so thru September. Winter came, leaves dropped and all seemed fine. SPring arrived and leaves formed and appeared normal-glossy and green but quickly developed a red edging. They seemed a little small to me and some what scallop-edged. No blooms developed at all last year. No branches were dying-when cut, it was green on the inside. I tried fertilizing it twice w/blood meal-no luck. Now, it’s mid-April and leaves have formed and look very healty. So, any suggestions as to why it did not bloom last summer/fall?
    Thanks

    Hi Christy
    It sounds like your crepe myrtle went through transplant shock. The reason they initially bloomed was because it had already developed blooms in the nursery before it was transplanted. During the first year of growth, the tree spends all its energy establishing a new root system instead of producing flower buds. The small scallop-edged leaves were also an indicator that the tree was still recovering. It sounds as if you took good care of the tree and once it fully recovers, it should reward you with flowers.

21. 

    tabatha

    3/26/2008 at 11:24 am ·

    I have tried to find sweet annie, but have had no luck. I wondered if it was called something other than sweet annie. Could anyone le tme know?

    The botanical name for Sweet Annie is Artemesia annua, a fragrant herb prized for its medicinal value as well as used in dried arrangements. You can order the seeds from http://www.underwoodgardens.com .

22. 

    Drue Fergison

    2/20/2008 at 5:09 pm ·

    Hello:

    I live in MN so have my plants indoors this winter. My jasmine, gardenia, and another plant have “sticky stuff” all over their leaves – even rubbing off on things and on the floor. Also, my gardenia has little white bug-like things on the leaves AND my jasmine has little brown scabs that I noticed today for the first time. I have no idea what all these problems are, how to solve, or how/why they started, and am in a panic – especially since my gardenia is budded up pretty well. Any help would be so greatly appreciated. Thanks so much! Drue Fergison

    Both jasmine and gardenia can fall victim to scale insects which start to multiply faster at the onset of Spring. They produce a sticking substance called honeydew, which is actually insect poop. They are the brown scabs on the plant. They can spread from one plant to another provided it is one on their favs list. The white-bug-like insect may be mealy bug. Unfortunately gardenia has a number of insects that attack it indoors. You can scrape off the scale with your fingernail and spray the plant with insecticidal soap every two weeks to get it under control. Both insects are more vulnerable in the crawler(baby) stage . Once the plant is moved outdoors for the summer natural predators and environment conditions will help control the problem.

23. 

    aga williams

    2/4/2008 at 8:48 am ·

    I got a little allotment last summer. It was full of Physalis alkekengi(Chinese lanterns). As it was much over grown and took much too space I decided to trim it at the end of autumn. It looks white/yellow quite dry now. Did I kill it or its going to get lively again in spring?

    No, you didn’t kill it. You just did what should have been done . It is a perennial and as long as you didn’t pull out the roots it will come back in the spring at the base of each stem. It spreads by underground runner and can get aggressive. If it takes over the whole flower bed dig some up in the spring and give them to your friends. The dried lanterns make beautiful dried arrangements.

24. 

    Brigitte

    10/29/2007 at 2:06 pm ·

    Hi Kris, I have a Problem in my Lawn, there are little mounts of Dirt coming up everywhere, are this from Worms? Thank you …… Brigitte

    Hi Brigitte
    Check the mounds an see if they are fan or crescent-shaped. If so you may have gophers. The tunnels underground are about 2 inches in diameter. Moles also make molehills and tunnels which are smaller in diameter and not fan shaped. Moles feed in lawns with grubs and earthworms. Another idea is that is could be small anthills.

25. 

    Gemma

    7/29/2007 at 7:34 pm ·

    I have just bought a house with a north facing flower bed that is right now a weed patch. I have absolutely no idea about gardening and was wondering if anyone could advise me on what would be good to plant there.

    Plants that require semi-shade should be planted on the north side of the house . This is typically, a few hours of morning sun and afternoon shade. There are a number of semi-shade to shade plants available. You also need to consider the soil condition (well-drained or clay) as well as soil ph. Some popular annuals for a shaded area areageratum, lobelia, impatients, new guinea impatients, begonias and coleus. There are also lots of perennials you can try such as hosta, columbine, astilbe, bergenia,bleeding heart, campanula, daylily and ferns. Start with a few perennial plants and add some annuals to fill in the spaces. Hydrangea is a popular semi-shade shrub. Soil preparation is the most important thing you can do to make your plantings a success. Be sure to work up the soil and add organic material such as peat moss or compost. Stop at the local nursery, they can give you lots of suggestions.

26. 

    Ola Fischer

    7/21/2007 at 4:02 pm ·

    I have a black current swirl datura that has bloomed very well this summer, but now the lower leaves are turning yellow. I put Miracle Gro timed released plant food on it in April or May. Should I add more now? Also, there are several seed pods on it. How and when do I collect the seeds? It is growing in a container, partly shaded, on my patio.

    It could use some additional fertilizer. Let the seed pod turn brown to harvest. Cut open the pod, there should be light to dark brown seeds inside with a corky covering on the seeds. Dry the seeds and store in a dark cool place. Keep in mind that seeds collected will not come true when planted. You will not get the same plant but some variations of it. Wear gloves or wash hands after handling the seeds as they are poisonous. All parts of the plant are poisonous and should be kept away from children and pets. Plant seed in a 4 inch pot and cover with 1/4-1/2 ” premoistened soil. Water and place in a warm place. Keep the soil slightly moist until germination occurs which should take 2weeks-several months.

27. 

    Jen

    6/1/2007 at 4:52 pm ·

    I have notice on my rose bush they are tiny green & brown bugs that is eating the roses before they open up. Once the roses open up the blooms are brownish color. My rose bush is loaded with blooms but I just cannot enjoy my scented flowers. I have sprayed them with a insecticide soap twice and it just doesn’t seem to be working. Can you please advise me what other method of treatment that I may be able to use that will get rid of these bugs. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks – J

    There are several types of insects that infest rosebuds from several types of beetles, aphids to thrips. Identifying them is important because it will help eliminate them. Take a specimen to your local extension office or nursery. They can for ID it and suggest a treatment. Aphids come in several colors and feed on rosebuds. They are soft-bodied insects. If that’s what is eating your roses, they may require several applications of insecticidal soap every 2-3 days to correct the problem. There are some stronger sprays(Sevin, Malathion) that can be used on roses which will be more effective than insecticidal soap. Always take precautions when spraying and follow label directions.

28. 

    Susan Houseal

    5/28/2007 at 1:05 pm ·

    I have a Black Eyed Susan that has dark spots on the green leaves & appears to be drying out the plant. I had the same problem last year. Do you know what might be causing & how I can correct it? Thank you in advance for your efforts.

    A common disease that affects Rudbeckia (Black0Eyed Susan) is Septoria leaf spot. This is caused by a fungus that starts on the lower leaves and eventually travels to the upper leaves. It starts with small dark brown lesions that get up to 1/8 to 1/4 inch in diameter. The fungus overwinters on leaf material and produces spores in late spring-early summer when there is a lot of moisture. To reduce infection avoid overhead watering-the fungus spreads quickly with splashing water. Allow more spacing between crowded plants to increase air circulation which will dry out the plants faster after a rain. Remove any infected leaves at the end of the growing season so the fungus won’t winterover. You can spray with a fungicide when the disease first appears (early-mid June) to reduce infection but it won’t eliminate the disease. Follow label directions. There are other leaf spot diseases that can affect Rudbeckia that require similar treatment.

29. 

    betty , Edwardsville, pa

    5/20/2007 at 5:37 am ·

    Hello, can you tell me if Shasta Daisies are deer proof perennials ?? I see black eyed Susan, would they be the same as Shasta’s? I am looking forward to your reply.
    Thank you, Betty, Edwardsville, Pa.

    Shasta daisies are deer proof perennials, I have them in my flower bed and seem to be safe from deer-but keep in mind if they are hungry they will eat anything. click here for a list of deer proof perennials.

    2007-7-6
    Hello, now that I have the shasta daisys growing for my parents. no deer eating them.. do I dead head the old flowers from the plants to help stimulate more beautiful daisys will they reseed themself when they fall off ??? thanks for the help again…
    Nancy, Harveys lake, Pa

    Hi Nancy
    Yes, if you leaves some flowers to form seedheads, later in the season, they can reseed themselves given the right conditions. Seeds can be planted in the fall or spring.

30. 

    Nancy L. Newell

    5/16/2007 at 11:40 am ·

    Hello it is good to be back with hortchat again, finally got me a computer and planting season is here.. Now my daughter is looking to plant either assylum or is it ground phlox?? around a rock in her yard, question is which type would spead and grow into a type of “Mound” .. or like ground cover.. what would you recommend for us ??
    have a great summer
    nancy, Harvey’s Lake, Pa

    Hi Nancy
    I think she probably wants to plants Phlox subulata ( moss phlox or moss pink). It is an early-spring bloomer great for rock gardens. This perennial grows in clumps and gets 5-6 inches tall and spreads 3-4 ft. Moss phlox has semi-evergreen needlelike leaves and is hardy to zone 4. It’s usually available in garden centers April/May. Another hardy perennial is Snow-in-Summer (Cerastrum tomemtosum). This ground cover gets 6″ tall, blooms May-July with white flowers and silver-gray foliage. Sweet alyssum is an annual and blooms primarily all summer long. Sometimes it can re-seed itself but I wouldn’t count on that. Happy planting season!

31. 

    Nancy

    1/8/2007 at 6:12 pm ·

    I have 2 winterberry plants tha are in their 3rd winter. In the spring they are loaded with flowers followed by berries. The berries turn red then shrivel up and fall off. WHY?

    It may depend on the weather conditions, a dry fall season or a hard frost can cause the berries to dry up and fall off. Winterberries don’t neccesarily last the whole winter season.

32. 

    drenda

    11/27/2006 at 7:06 am ·

    i have two very young red maple trees. i want to know are the leaves suppose to fall off in the fall? i thought the leaves would just turn colors in the fall

    Yes, the red maples will drop all their leaves in the fall and regrow again in the spring. They need a cold dormant period (winter).

    Drenda
    I have two young maple trees and I was told that if I cut off the lower branches the trees would grow better. Is this true, if so how and when should I trim the branches and when should I fertilize? I also have Mandevillas that the winter killed, will they come back?

    I have not heard of this. Newly planted trees are pruned and thinned to give the roots a chance to grow so that they can support the emerging leaves. Once established, you can prune to shape a tree and remove disease or damaged branches. People also trim the lower branches of established trees for convenience; if they are in the way of mowing or causing too much shade. It is not recommended to remove the lower branches but you can trim them. Removing lower branches lenghtens the time the tree will need to produce a strong trunk. Fertilize in the second spring after planting. Your local University extension has great info on tree care.
    Check your Mandevilla when the weather warms up, chances are its a gonner. They die in temperatures below 40 degrees.

33. 

    Nita Smith

    10/25/2006 at 2:35 am ·

    I dug up my heliotrope which had been growing outside all summer and potted it. I live in zone 7. It’s leaves have dried. Should I cut it back now? I have it in the garage where it gets some sunlight and sprayed it with Safer Soap before bringing it into the house. Thank you.

    You can cut the bare stems back by 1/3 – 1/2 for now. In the spring, if the stems did not develop new leaves cut back to new growth. Before a hard frost hits, ease it indoors and treat it as a houseplant. Place it in a warm, sunny spot (South window) and the leaves will turn toward the sun. Water moderately as it doesn’t like to dry out but don’t keep it too wet. It does well in night temperatures of 50-65. Watch out for whitefly during the winter. If it gets too leggy trim it lightly. You can also root softwood cuttings in the winter and make new plants like geraniums. Heliotrope is hardy in zones 10-11.

34. 

    Christine S.

    9/22/2006 at 9:52 pm ·

    Are the seeds of a Japanese Lantern (Jack-O-Lantern ) plant found inside of the delicate orange “flower” of what looks like an orange cherry tomato? If so – the seeds are so tiny…what is the best way of drying them out? I would love to know more about this plant! Thank you.

    You must be referring to the Chinese Lantern, (Physalis alkekengi) also known as Winter Cherry, Ground Cherry which belongs to the nightshade family. It is known for its orange, papery husk that encases a small tomato-like fruit which contain the seeds. To process the seeds take the fruit and place it in a blender with enough water to cover it. Blend or agitate the mixture and pour it into a bowl. Discard the top layer of the mix which will contain any floating seeds and debris. The good seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl. Pour the rest into a strainer and rinse with water. Dry the seeds on a non-porous surface, eg. glass. Store completely dry seeds in an airtight container in a cool dry place suc as a refrigerator or freezer for long term storage.

35. 

    Terry C

    9/4/2006 at 10:06 pm ·

    #1-Variegated aucuba, when is it best to trim back and how best to trim without showing the stalks. These are good sized ( 20 yrs old ), is it a good idea to bite the bullet and cut them back by1/2 to 2/3rds? They are a major part of front yard landscape.
    #2 crepe mrytle, is it always best to cut them back for maximum flowering or can they be allowed to grow without cutting?
    This is in the Tulsa OK area.

    Crepe myrtle doesn’t need pruning to bloom as flowers are produced on new growth but it will produce larger and more flowers if it is lightly pruned. For a second bloom in the summer prune right after the flowers fade. Variegated Aucuba (Aucuba japonica) can be safely pruned 1/3 of the shrub per year. For neglected plants try renewal pruning. In the spring, cut back(down to the soil line) one of three stems starting with the oldest, so that the shrub will be rejuvenated in 3 years. This will stimulate new growth from the crown and remaining stems. Before pruning examine the plant to see how much needs to be removed. It may be unattractive at first but new growth will soon fill in and shape the plant.

36. 

    Brigitte Trent

    6/11/2006 at 4:38 pm ·

    I have two rhody’s that have gray’ish stuff on them what can I do? Thanks

    Gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) usually develops from heavy rainfall, high humidity, excessive watering and/or overhead watering. Poor air ciculation at temperatures 68-76 adds to its survival and allows the infection to spread. Sanitation is the main control as the fungus will winter over on infected dead plant material. Remove any infected plant tissue and bury or burn it. Warm, hot dry weather reduces its growth. Once a plant is infected with a fungus, it is too late to kill it but you can try a fungicide (Dacinil) which might prevent new infections – Follow label direction.

37. 

    jay

    9/1/2005 at 10:58 am ·

    help i have a weird hollow tubelike spongey like light pink and red tip growing in my garden what is this i can send a pic if required pls email at munkyman90@hotmail.com

    It’s a type of stinkhorn (fungus). It start as an egg-shape and then the tip emerges with a stongy, hollow stem that is covered with a foul-smelling,slimy spore mass. It occurs in decomposing organic material. It is harmless but interesting to look at.

38. 

    Gene

    9/24/2004 at 5:20 am ·

    Hello, can you help me with my rhododendron plant. It never bloomed this year, it is all scraggly looking, it has some yellow leaves and still has buds. What should I do?

    Rhododendrons are very particular as to where they live. They like acid, well drained soil, and shade. If their requirements are not met, they will decline each year. Yellow leaves indicate a lack of nutrients(nitrogen), or that the ph is too high. Both work off each other and affect healthy plant growth. The buds are next years flowers. Make sure in dry conditions that it gets plenty of water. Mulch it through the winter and in the spring fertilize it with miracid, a specially formulated fertilizer for acid loving plants that also reduces the soils ph. If next year you do not see an improvement I would find a new location for the plant

    .

    dennis walston
    how and where do cut off the old rhododendron blooms so that you have blooms the next year

    Rhododendrons should be pruned very lightly. They start forming next year’s buds before this year’s flowers have opened. They should be pruned right after they flower. Pinch or clip out the old bloom just above the new leaf buds that are directly below the flowers. If you need to prune more, cut back to where last years buds developed (cut back leading branches one -two whorls -always to a green growing point.) This will of course, cut away next years blooms but will promote side branching.

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