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Plant & Gardening Tips

33 Comments on Plant & Gardening Tips»

1. Hello, can you help me with my rhododendron plant. It never bloomed this year, it is all scraggly looking, it has some yellow leaves and still has buds. What should I do?

   Rhododendrons are very particular as to where they live. They like acid, well drained soil, and shade. If their requirements are not met, they will decline each year. Yellow leaves indicate a lack of nutrients(nitrogen), or that the ph is too high. Both work off each other and affect healthy plant growth. The buds are next years flowers. Make sure in dry conditions that it gets plenty of water. Mulch it through the winter and in the spring fertilize it with miracid, a specially formulated fertilizer for acid loving plants that also reduces the soils ph. If next year you do not see an improvement I would find a new location for the plant

   .

   dennis walston
   how and where do cut off the old rhododendron blooms so that you have blooms the next year

   Rhododendrons should be pruned very lightly. They start forming next year’s buds before this year’s flowers have opened. They should be pruned right after they flower. Pinch or clip out the old bloom just above the new leaf buds that are directly below the flowers. If you need to prune more, cut back to where last years buds developed (cut back leading branches one -two whorls -always to a green growing point.) This will of course, cut away next years blooms but will promote side branching.

   Comment by Gene — 9/24/2004 @ 5:20 am

2. need info on Dierama Pulcherrimum

   Plant the gladiolus-like corms 3-5in deep in the spring in well-drained humus soil. The corm bears pedulous spikes of tubular bell- shaped flowers on an arching stem. This plant originates from South Africa and is hardy in zones 8-10

   Comment by Jean — 5/22/2005 @ 9:04 pm

3. How do I get rid of Poison Ivy without hurting the plants it grows on and around

   One product out on the market is a foam, produced by Roundup called Weed & Grass Killer Sure Shot foam. This is a systemic that is absorbed by the plant and kills the whole plant. It works best in full hot sun. Wear gloves to remove the dead stems and bury them or put them in a garbage bag. Do not try to burn the debris as the smoke can also cause allergic problems. Glyposate (Roundup) also works but it will kill everything.

   Comment by jay atkins — 6/26/2005 @ 12:57 pm

4. help i have a weird hollow tubelike spongey like light pink and red tip growing in my garden what is this i can send a pic if required pls email at munkyman90@hotmail.com

   It’s a type of stinkhorn (fungus). It start as an egg-shape and then the tip emerges with a stongy, hollow stem that is covered with a foul-smelling,slimy spore mass. It occurs in decomposing organic material. It is harmless but interesting to look at.

   Comment by jay — 9/1/2005 @ 10:58 am

5. I am trying to find out if I can plant a stephanotis floribunda vine with a tricolor asiatic jasmine vine in the same pot. What kind of soil (acidic vs basic) do each of these plants prefer? watering characteristics?
   thanks.

   Both plants prefer moist, acidic soil and with same watering conditions. They also have similar light exposure requirements light shade(Steph) to part shade(jasmine). Both will make an interesting combination.

   Comment by Angela — 10/6/2005 @ 10:49 am

6. I bought a ton of Isotoma a year ago and am using it in a full sun area btwn. stepping stones. Do I need to fertilize it on a regular basis?

   If you have Isotoma fluviatillis, Blue star creeper, it is recommended that you fertilize once a month during the growing season (spring-fall). They also like moist soil.

   Comment by melissa — 4/2/2006 @ 7:17 am

7. I have grown gooseberries and the plants are nice and appear healthy, but before the fruit has time to ripen, the gooseberries fall off of the plants. Do you any suggestions that would help me to finnally get ripe fruit.

   Gooseberries like cool and moist soil. Hot dry conditions will affect fruit set and produce smaller fruit. Mulch them to keep the soil moist and cool during the summer and water as needed to keep the soil moist. They also prefer fertilizer that is high in potassium (the third number). Buy a fertilizer that has the highest third number and smaller first and second number(eg. 10-10-30

   Comment by anita ensing — 5/14/2006 @ 9:39 am

8. I have two rhody’s that have gray’ish stuff on them what can I do? Thanks

   Gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) usually develops from heavy rainfall, high humidity, excessive watering and/or overhead watering. Poor air ciculation at temperatures 68-76 adds to its survival and allows the infection to spread. Sanitation is the main control as the fungus will winter over on infected dead plant material. Remove any infected plant tissue and bury or burn it. Warm, hot dry weather reduces its growth. Once a plant is infected with a fungus, it is too late to kill it but you can try a fungicide (Dacinil) which might prevent new infections - Follow label direction.

   Comment by Brigitte Trent — 6/11/2006 @ 4:38 pm

9. #1-Variegated aucuba, when is it best to trim back and how best to trim without showing the stalks. These are good sized ( 20 yrs old ), is it a good idea to bite the bullet and cut them back by1/2 to 2/3rds? They are a major part of front yard landscape.
   #2 crepe mrytle, is it always best to cut them back for maximum flowering or can they be allowed to grow without cutting?
   This is in the Tulsa OK area.

   Crype myrtle doesn’t need pruning to bloom as flowers are produced on new growth but it will produce larger and more flowers if it is lightly pruned. For a second bloom in the summer prune right after the flowers fade. Variegated Aucuba (Aucuba japonica) can be safely pruned 1/3 of the shrub per year. For neglected plants try renewal pruning. In the spring, cut back(down to the soil line) one of three stems starting with the oldest, so that the shrub will be rejuvenated in 3 years. This will stimulate new growth from the crown and remaining stems. Before pruning examine the plant to see how much needs to be removed. It may be unattractive at first but new growth will soon fill in and shape the plant.

   Comment by Terry C — 9/4/2006 @ 10:06 pm

10. Are the seeds of a Japanese Lantern (Jack-O-Lantern ) plant found inside of the delicate orange “flower” of what looks like an orange cherry tomato? If so - the seeds are so tiny…what is the best way of drying them out? I would love to know more about this plant! Thank you.

    You must be referring to the Chinese Lantern, (Physalis alkekengi) also known as Winter Cherry, Ground Cherry which belongs to the nightshade family. It is known for its orange, papery husk that encases a small tomato-like fruit which contain the seeds. To process the seeds take the fruit and place it in a blender with enough water to cover it. Blend or agitate the mixture and pour it into a bowl. Discard the top layer of the mix which will contain any floating seeds and debris. The good seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl. Pour the rest into a strainer and rinse with water. Dry the seeds on a non-porous surface, eg. glass. Store completely dry seeds in an airtight container in a cool dry place suc as a refrigerator or freezer for long term storage.

    Comment by Christine S. — 9/22/2006 @ 9:52 pm

11. I dug up my heliotrope which had been growing outside all summer and potted it. I live in zone 7. It’s leaves have dried. Should I cut it back now? I have it in the garage where it gets some sunlight and sprayed it with Safer Soap before bringing it into the house. Thank you.

    You can cut the bare stems back by 1/3 - 1/2 for now. In the spring, if the stems did not develop new leaves cut back to new growth. Before a hard frost hits, ease it indoors and treat it as a houseplant. Place it in a warm, sunny spot (South window) and the leaves will turn toward the sun. Water moderately as it doesn’t like to dry out but don’t keep it too wet. It does well in night temperatures of 50-65. Watch out for whitefly during the winter. If it gets too leggy trim it lightly. You can also root softwood cuttings in the winter and make new plants like geraniums. Heliotrope is hardy in zones 10-11.

    Comment by Nita Smith — 10/25/2006 @ 2:35 am

12. i have two very young red maple trees. i want to know are the leaves suppose to fall off in the fall? i thought the leaves would just turn colors in the fall

    Yes, the red maples will drop all their leaves in the fall and regrow again in the spring. They need a cold dormant period (winter).

    Drenda
    I have two young maple trees and I was told that if I cut off the lower branches the trees would grow better. Is this true, if so how and when should I trim the branches and when should I fertilize? I also have Mandevillas that the winter killed, will they come back?

    I have not heard of this. Newly planted trees are pruned and thinned to give the roots a chance to grow so that they can support the emerging leaves. Once established, you can prune to shape a tree and remove disease or damaged branches. People also trim the lower branches of established trees for convenience; if they are in the way of mowing or causing too much shade. It is not recommended to remove the lower branches but you can trim them. Removing lower branches lenghtens the time the tree will need to produce a strong trunk. Fertilize in the second spring after planting. Your local University extension has great info on tree care.
    Check your Mandevilla when the weather warms up, chances are its a gonner. They die in temperatures below 40 degrees.

    Comment by drenda — 11/27/2006 @ 7:06 am

13. I have 2 winterberry plants tha are in their 3rd winter. In the spring they are loaded with flowers followed by berries. The berries turn red then shrivel up and fall off. WHY?

    It may depend on the weather conditions, a dry fall season or a hard frost can cause the berries to dry up and fall off. Winterberries don’t neccesarily last the whole winter season.

    Comment by Nancy — 1/8/2007 @ 6:12 pm

14. I have a problem in my grass, there are pinkish spots and after a wile the grass Dy’s. What can I do, have this problem for an long time

    Brigitte,
    I need to know what kind of grass you are growing and what part of the country it is in.

    Hi Kris, I dont know the Type of Grass, I live in Orting,WA and we have lots of Rain….

    Brigitte,
    There’s a good chance that your grass has a fungal disease either red thread or pink patch. Red thread is especially prevalent in the Pacific Northwest in the spring and fall. Both red thread and pink patch have similar symptoms and are active in cooler, humid wet climates. The fungal disease occurs in grass that is deficient in fertility. For starters a good fertility program based on a soil test will promote a healthy lawn and reduce red thread. Mow often at the recommended height to remove diseased grass blades. Fungicide are not recommended for home lawns. There are additional cultural practices to cotrol the fungus . For more info go to http://www.ipm.uiuc.edu/diseases/series400/rpd413/#top or www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/publicat.htm

    Comment by Brigitte — 3/17/2007 @ 4:20 pm

15. How long should it take in Zone 7 to see visible growth, i.e., leaves on newly planted blueberry roots(in bag similar to what roses come in)…? I planted six three weeks ago following last frost, and though only three had tiny leaves on them - and not many then, nothing has changed…
    HELP, please
    Thanks
    B.

    They should be leafed out as the temperatures get warmer. Bareroot plants take longer to establish than container plant. Blueberries should be at the same soil level as previously grown. Add 3-4 inches of organic mulch(oak leaves, pine needles) around the plant to keep them moist but not wet . Also try a transplant fertilizer (Strong start 4-16-8) to stimulate new root growth or some compost tea. Blueberries require an acid soil at a ph level of around 5.0 . Test your soil, if the soil ph is above 5.0 you will need to lower the ph by adding sulfur.

    Comment by Bert Lindsey — 5/4/2007 @ 4:30 am

16. Hello it is good to be back with hortchat again, finally got me a computer and planting season is here.. Now my daughter is looking to plant either assylum or is it ground phlox?? around a rock in her yard, question is which type would spead and grow into a type of “Mound” .. or like ground cover.. what would you recommend for us ??
    have a great summer
    nancy, Harvey’s Lake, Pa

    Hi Nancy
    I think she probably wants to plants Phlox subulata ( moss phlox or moss pink). It is an early-spring bloomer great for rock gardens. This perennial grows in clumps and gets 5-6 inches tall and spreads 3-4 ft. Moss phlox has semi-evergreen needlelike leaves and is hardy to zone 4. It’s usually available in garden centers April/May. Another hardy perennial is Snow-in-Summer (Cerastrum tomemtosum). This ground cover gets 6″ tall, blooms May-July with white flowers and silver-gray foliage. Sweet alyssum is an annual and blooms primarily all summer long. Sometimes it can re-seed itself but I wouldn’t count on that. Happy planting season!

    Comment by Nancy L. Newell — 5/16/2007 @ 11:40 am

17. Hello, can you tell me if Shasta Daisies are deer proof perennials ?? I see black eyed Susan, would they be the same as Shasta’s? I am looking forward to your reply.
    Thank you, Betty, Edwardsville, Pa.

    Shasta daisies are deer proof perennials, I have them in my flower bed and seem to be safe from deer-but keep in mind if they are hungry they will eat anything. click here for a list of deer proof perennials.

    2007-7-6
    Hello, now that I have the shasta daisys growing for my parents. no deer eating them.. do I dead head the old flowers from the plants to help stimulate more beautiful daisys will they reseed themself when they fall off ??? thanks for the help again…
    Nancy, Harveys lake, Pa

    Hi Nancy
    Yes, if you leaves some flowers to form seedheads, later in the season, they can reseed themselves given the right conditions. Seeds can be planted in the fall or spring.

    Comment by betty , Edwardsville, pa — 5/20/2007 @ 5:37 am

18. I have a Black Eyed Susan that has dark spots on the green leaves & appears to be drying out the plant. I had the same problem last year. Do you know what might be causing & how I can correct it? Thank you in advance for your efforts.

    A common disease that affects Rudbeckia (Black0Eyed Susan) is Septoria leaf spot. This is caused by a fungus that starts on the lower leaves and eventually travels to the upper leaves. It starts with small dark brown lesions that get up to 1/8 to 1/4 inch in diameter. The fungus overwinters on leaf material and produces spores in late spring-early summer when there is a lot of moisture. To reduce infection avoid overhead watering-the fungus spreads quickly with splashing water. Allow more spacing between crowded plants to increase air circulation which will dry out the plants faster after a rain. Remove any infected leaves at the end of the growing season so the fungus won’t winterover. You can spray with a fungicide when the disease first appears (early-mid June) to reduce infection but it won’t eliminate the disease. Follow label directions. There are other leaf spot diseases that can affect Rudbeckia that require similar treatment.

    Comment by Susan Houseal — 5/28/2007 @ 1:05 pm

19. I have notice on my rose bush they are tiny green & brown bugs that is eating the roses before they open up. Once the roses open up the blooms are brownish color. My rose bush is loaded with blooms but I just cannot enjoy my scented flowers. I have sprayed them with a insecticide soap twice and it just doesn’t seem to be working. Can you please advise me what other method of treatment that I may be able to use that will get rid of these bugs. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks - J

    There are several types of insects that infest rosebuds from several types of beetles, aphids to thrips. Identifying them is important because it will help eliminate them. Take a specimen to your local extension office or nursery. They can for ID it and suggest a treatment. Aphids come in several colors and feed on rosebuds. They are soft-bodied insects. If that’s what is eating your roses, they may require several applications of insecticidal soap every 2-3 days to correct the problem. There are some stronger sprays(Sevin, Malathion) that can be used on roses which will be more effective than insecticidal soap. Always take precautions when spraying and follow label directions.

    Comment by Jen — 6/1/2007 @ 4:52 pm

20. Should I add iron sulphate to my hanging waves. New leaves are small and very pale green.

    It’s best to feed your petunia with a well-balanced fertilizer (20-20-20) or slow release fertilizer. Chances are that a lot of nutrients have been depleted during the watering process and they can use additional nutrients besides iron sulphate. Plants growing in bright light need a constant supply of nutrients to keep blooming. If your plants are getting too long and leggy, late June and July is the time to pinch back unattractive growth by 1/2-1 inch or even up to 1/2 of the stem length up to a good set of leaves.. It will delay blooming for a few weeks but you will get a fuller burst of color later in the season.

    Comment by Mary — 6/22/2007 @ 1:47 pm

21. I have a black current swirl datura that has bloomed very well this summer, but now the lower leaves are turning yellow. I put Miracle Gro timed released plant food on it in April or May. Should I add more now? Also, there are several seed pods on it. How and when do I collect the seeds? It is growing in a container, partly shaded, on my patio.

    It could use some additional fertilizer. Let the seed pod turn brown to harvest. Cut open the pod, there should be light to dark brown seeds inside with a corky covering on the seeds. Dry the seeds and store in a dark cool place. Keep in mind that seeds collected will not come true when planted. You will not get the same plant but some variations of it. Wear gloves or wash hands after handling the seeds as they are poisonous. All parts of the plant are poisonous and should be kept away from children and pets. Plant seed in a 4 inch pot and cover with 1/4-1/2 ” premoistened soil. Water and place in a warm place. Keep the soil slightly moist until germination occurs which should take 2weeks-several months.

    Comment by Ola Fischer — 7/21/2007 @ 4:02 pm

22. I have just bought a house with a north facing flower bed that is right now a weed patch. I have absolutely no idea about gardening and was wondering if anyone could advise me on what would be good to plant there.

    Plants that require semi-shade should be planted on the north side of the house . This is typically, a few hours of morning sun and afternoon shade. There are a number of semi-shade to shade plants available. You also need to consider the soil condition (well-drained or clay) as well as soil ph. Some popular annuals for a shaded area areageratum, lobelia, impatients, new guinea impatients, begonias and coleus. There are also lots of perennials you can try such as hosta, columbine, astilbe, bergenia,bleeding heart, campanula, daylily and ferns. Start with a few perennial plants and add some annuals to fill in the spaces. Hydrangea is a popular semi-shade shrub. Soil preparation is the most important thing you can do to make your plantings a success. Be sure to work up the soil and add organic material such as peat moss or compost. Stop at the local nursery, they can give you lots of suggestions.

    Comment by Gemma — 7/29/2007 @ 7:34 pm

23. I had always wanted a mini rose bush and was never allowed by my now ex-husband to get one. Day I decided to hunt some down. At a local store I rescued 2 little rose bush pots. They’re half dead, they have some life in them and I would really like to save them but I don’t know where to start. I don’t have anywhere outside to plant them I live in an apartment.
    They are covered in dying leaves and half dead buds and I think I see some mold on the top of the soil. HELP!!!

    Mini roses are difficult to keep indoors but try this: Repot the plant in some fresh soil-be sure to remove the mold. Use the same size pot. Prune the plant up to 1/3 and remove any dead stems. Water and keep in indirect sun. It should send out new growth in a few weeks then place it in a bright sun.

    Comment by Elizabeth — 10/5/2007 @ 7:03 pm

24. Also, could you tell me if there is a way to save my coleus plants too. They have gotten so big and beatiful, I hate to see the frost get them and when do I need to bring in my upright ferns for the winter and how often do I fetilize them.Thanks…Jeffrey

    Click here for coleus info. I’m not sure what kind of ferns you have-but they should not be fertilized in the winter. Wait till spring.

    Comment by Jeffrey Davidson — 10/8/2007 @ 12:26 pm

25. Hi Kris, I have a Problem in my Lawn, there are little mounts of Dirt coming up everywhere, are this from Worms? Thank you …… Brigitte

    Hi Brigitte
    Check the mounds an see if they are fan or crescent-shaped. If so you may have gophers. The tunnels underground are about 2 inches in diameter. Moles also make molehills and tunnels which are smaller in diameter and not fan shaped. Moles feed in lawns with grubs and earthworms. Another idea is that is could be small anthills.

    Comment by Brigitte — 10/29/2007 @ 2:06 pm

26. Hello! I’m a Hibiscus rosa-sinensis specialist - www.hibiscusworld.com - and I’ve been invited here. I hope I can help with some answers.

    Comment by Wally Morgan — 1/28/2008 @ 3:36 pm

27. I got a little allotment last summer. It was full of Physalis alkekengi(Chinese lanterns). As it was much over grown and took much too space I decided to trim it at the end of autumn. It looks white/yellow quite dry now. Did I kill it or its going to get lively again in spring?

    No, you didn’t kill it. You just did what should have been done . It is a perennial and as long as you didn’t pull out the roots it will come back in the spring at the base of each stem. It spreads by underground runner and can get aggressive. If it takes over the whole flower bed dig some up in the spring and give them to your friends. The dried lanterns make beautiful dried arrangements.

    Comment by aga williams — 2/4/2008 @ 8:48 am

28. Hello:

    I live in MN so have my plants indoors this winter. My jasmine, gardenia, and another plant have “sticky stuff” all over their leaves - even rubbing off on things and on the floor. Also, my gardenia has little white bug-like things on the leaves AND my jasmine has little brown scabs that I noticed today for the first time. I have no idea what all these problems are, how to solve, or how/why they started, and am in a panic - especially since my gardenia is budded up pretty well. Any help would be so greatly appreciated. Thanks so much! Drue Fergison

    Both jasmine and gardenia can fall victim to scale insects which start to multiply faster at the onset of Spring. They produce a sticking substance called honeydew, which is actually insect poop. They are the brown scabs on the plant. They can spread from one plant to another provided it is one on their favs list. The white-bug-like insect may be mealy bug. Unfortunately gardenia has a number of insects that attack it indoors. You can scrape off the scale with your fingernail and spray the plant with insecticidal soap every two weeks to get it under control. Both insects are more vulnerable in the crawler(baby) stage . Once the plant is moved outdoors for the summer natural predators and environment conditions will help control the problem.

    Comment by Drue Fergison — 2/20/2008 @ 5:09 pm

29. I have a Norfolk Pine in my living room…..it about touches my ceiling. There are three “trees"….the second and third trees are smaller in height. Could I cut the tall tree down?…or separate the tall tree from the second and third tree and give it away???
    Thanks!
    Joan

    Hi Joan

    The safest and best option is to cut down the tallest tree to the soil line, that way you won’t disturb the other two trees. It might be tricky to separate all three. Being that they were in the pot for several years, their roots are entangled and trying to separate each tree would most likely damage the roots of all three plants with little chance of recovery. If they were younger plants, it would be possible to separate them as they would be able to recoup from the shock.

    Comment by Joan P. Ashton — 3/16/2008 @ 12:37 pm

30. I have stargazer lilies and would like to move them to a different spot in the yard. They’re beautiful but seem to have taken over. When is the best time to move them? I would like to do it now, but don’t want to hurt them or worse. I live in Akron, Ohio if that makes a difference. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Hi Tabatha
    Lucky you, your lilies are dividing and multiplying! They must really be happy where they are. The best time to move your stargazer lilies is in the fall after the foliage has died back but you can also move them in the spring as soon as you can work the soil. Try to dig up as many roots as possible and replant to the new area immediately. Make sure you water it well and protect the new shoots from freezing temperatures. For more info see Stargazer lilies

    Comment by tabatha — 3/26/2008 @ 11:16 am

31. I have tried to find sweet annie, but have had no luck. I wondered if it was called something other than sweet annie. Could anyone le tme know?

    The botanical name for Sweet Annie is Artemesia annua, a fragrant herb prized for its medicinal value as well as used in dried arrangements. You can order the seeds from www.underwoodgardens.com .

    Comment by tabatha — 3/26/2008 @ 11:24 am

32. I reside a 2 miles from the beach in Oxnard, CA (Ventura County)& July of 06 I purchased a 24″ box multi-trunk Tuscarora crepe myrtle and had my gardner plant it in my front yard-a small square plot-no grass, just mulched with bark. I had him bury 2 perforated pvc pipes parallel wtihe tree for deep, infrequent watering. It was in bloom when purchased and continued to do so thru September. Winter came, leaves dropped and all seemed fine. SPring arrived and leaves formed and appeared normal-glossy and green but quickly developed a red edging. They seemed a little small to me and some what scallop-edged. No blooms developed at all last year. No branches were dying-when cut, it was green on the inside. I tried fertilizing it twice w/blood meal-no luck. Now, it’s mid-April and leaves have formed and look very healty. So, any suggestions as to why it did not bloom last summer/fall?
    Thanks

    Hi Christy
    It sounds like your crepe myrtle went through transplant shock. The reason they initially bloomed was because it had already developed blooms in the nursery before it was transplanted. During the first year of growth, the tree spends all its energy establishing a new root system instead of producing flower buds. The small scallop-edged leaves were also an indicator that the tree was still recovering. It sounds as if you took good care of the tree and once it fully recovers, it should reward you with flowers.

    Comment by Christy — 4/12/2008 @ 5:03 pm

33. i have gerbera daisies and I read where they should be planted in full sun but everyday when I get home from work the blooms are down like they have had too much sun I try to water them so the blooms will stand back up am I doing something wrong

    Hi Crystal
    Gerbera daisy do like full sun but when the plant is stressed it will wilt. If the plant is newly planted, it needs time for the roots to catch up to the leaves from transplant shock. A bit of shade for newly planted gerbera will reduce the amount of sun stress. Provide an unbrella on a sunny day for a few days. They should perk up, if not then you will have to revisit your watering technique. Over watering is the quickest way to kill a plant, water in the AM so the plant has time to dry out by night time. If the soil is moist and the plants are wilted that indicates a root problem (root or crown rot).

    Comment by crystal wooten — 5/6/2008 @ 3:12 pm

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